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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

How My Grandfather’s IWC Caliber 89 Is A Connection To A Bygone Era Fratello
IWC Caliber 89 Sep 8, 2024

How My Grandfather’s IWC Caliber 89 Is A Connection To A Bygone Era

Watches can be a deeply impersonal affair. The rise of social media hype, luxury exhibitionism, and wristwatch “flexing” is very different from what watches once represented. It wasn’t all that long ago that they were simple time-telling tools with a little style thrown in (perhaps even some panache). This article is a celebration of watches […] Visit How My Grandfather’s IWC Caliber 89 Is A Connection To A Bygone Era to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Nacho’s Picks From Omega, Zenith, Breitling, And More Fratello
Breitling Sep 7, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Nacho’s Picks From Omega, Zenith, Breitling, And More

The time has come to wrap up our Best Watches Under €10K series, and I have the privilege of closing out this latest run. Doubling the budget from €5K unlocks a wealth of possibilities, and today, I’ll be looking to exploit those, even if it does call for a bit of finessing. Still, while I […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Nacho’s Picks From Omega, Zenith, Breitling, And More to read the full article.

Should you take ring watches seriously? Their history and place in watchmaking Time+Tide
Sep 6, 2024

Should you take ring watches seriously? Their history and place in watchmaking

For as long as watchmaking has been distinguished from clockmaking, the Venn diagram between watches and jewellery has been a circle. No amount of utility or ruggedness disguises the fact that they’re accessories, and they’re a form of self-expression. Some watches however, are much further down the jewellery end of the spectrum. You can put … ContinuedThe post Should you take ring watches seriously? Their history and place in watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Biver Debuts a Most Sophisticated Micro-Rotor Calibre SJX Watches
Sep 6, 2024

Biver Debuts a Most Sophisticated Micro-Rotor Calibre

Founded by the namesake father and son duo, Biver has just debuted its second model, the Biver Automatique. Though a simple a time-only watch with central seconds, in contrast to the preceding Carillon Tourbillon, the Automatique is equipped with an elaborately executed movement that’s arguably the most impressive recent automatic. Besides decorative touches like guilloche on the bridges, the JCB-003 also features details like a grande sonnerie-style winding click. The calibre is paired with a comparably elaborately constructed dial with solid gold appliqués that’s available in a variety of materials, including mineral stone like Pietersite. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts The Automatique is clearly meant to showcase the brand’s ability to create a highly finished and refined time-only watch that can compete with more established producers, both in terms of the movement as well as habillage (namely the dial and case). The highlight of the Automatique is the JCB-003 movement. Developed in partnership with movement specialist Dubois Depraz, the JCB-003 is quite possibly the most refined micro rotor movement on the market today. Though it is functionally simple, the movement boasts decorative and technical details along with a high level of finishing. The over-engineered caliber is meant to serve as a base for future complications, which makes sense considering the high cost involved in constructing such a movement. Amongst the calibre’s notable details is the grande so...

A Unique F.P. Journe Élégante for Geneva’s MAMCO Art Museum SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Sep 6, 2024

A Unique F.P. Journe Élégante for Geneva’s MAMCO Art Museum

Continuing with its regular support for various charities around the world, F.P. Journe has created the Élégante 48 mm Titalyt MAMCO that will be sold to benefit the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art of Geneva (MAMCO) on September 18, 2024. It’s essentially a variation of the stock Élégante with an engraved bezel and a reproduction of Maurizio Nannucci’s 1994 Art on the dial. While the watch is simple, the number will be big. As an example, the one-off Élégante 48 “Pink” raised over US$400,000 for American breast cancer charity in February this year. MAMCO 30 F.P. Journe has long been a supporter of MAMCO via its sponsorship of the Prix Solo at artgenève, an annual art fair organised by the museum. The one-off Élégante was conceived to raise funds for MAMCO’s renovation, which is part of the institution’s 30th anniversary commemoration this year. Founded in 1994 by a group of prominent bankers and lawyers, MAMCO is Switzerland’s largest museum dedicated to contemporary art. Located in a former factory, MAMCO sits across from the Patek Philippe Museum, and a five minute’s walk from F.P. Journe’s manufacture. The Élégante MAMCO is the larger size of the model, measuring 48 mm lengthwise. It has a titanium case coated in Titalyt, which is essentially a ceramic layer created via chemical oxidation. The case is identical to that on the standard model, save for the bezel that is engraved with “MAMCO” and “30”, a reference to the museum...

The Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic 80 Arrives in Forged Carbon SJX Watches
Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic 80 Sep 5, 2024

The Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic 80 Arrives in Forged Carbon

Well liked for its affordability and integrated-bracelet style, the Tissot PRX is now available in a novel material for the first time. The Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic Forged Carbon has a lightweight case of carbon composite matched with an integrated rubber strap, and it is equipped with a no-frills automatic movement. Initial thoughts From an LCD digital to a Grendizer edition, the iterations of the PRX are endless, but the model is still appealing with its simple style and inexpensive price tag. Like its peers, the PRX Forged Carbon model is a functional watch with a monochromatic aesthetic matches the design perfectly. But it’s lighter than the steel versions of the model, and arguably more wearable. That said, carbon composite is not as durable as metal alloy, so this might not have the same easy robustness as the steel version. At US$995, this does cost more than the base model PRX, but it is one of the most affordable Swiss-made watches with a carbon composite case and automatic movement. No-frills fun The new PRX retains the style and dimensions of its steel counterpart. The case is 40 mm in diameter and a one-piece construction of carbon composite with a press-fit steel back. It’s slight thicker than the steel model because the steel case back connects to an inner case of steel that sits within the carbon composite outer case. The composite used for the case has a marbled finish that is typical of the material. Made up of white, grey, and black, the case is match...

First Look - The Bold, Racing-Oriented New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Collection Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Sep 5, 2024

First Look - The Bold, Racing-Oriented New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Collection

This year, TAG Heuer is expanding its lineup by introducing a new collection, the Carrera Extreme Sport series with 6 different models, blending the brand’s legendary racing heritage with advanced materials and innovative design. Earlier this year, the brand unveiled the Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 in time for the 24h of Le Mans, paying […]

Fratello Talks: Geneva Watch Days 2024 - Fair Recap And Highlights Fratello
Sep 5, 2024

Fratello Talks: Geneva Watch Days 2024 - Fair Recap And Highlights

Hello, and welcome to Fratello Talks! Today, we’re talking about Geneva Watch Days 2024. Nacho, RJ, and Lex come together after spending some time in the Swiss capital and recount their experience. They start by giving you a taste of what made this year’s show feel different from the previous three and end up walking […] Visit Fratello Talks: Geneva Watch Days 2024 - Fair Recap And Highlights to read the full article.

Hands-On with the Relaunched Favre Leuba Collections at Geneva Watch Days Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Sep 4, 2024

Hands-On with the Relaunched Favre Leuba Collections at Geneva Watch Days

One of my first and most eagerly anticipated Geneva Watch Days meetings was with Favre Leuba, a brand that I’ve admired for a very long time, even as its modern incarnation felt like a shell of the brand of its vintage heyday. Favre Leuba is a brand with a long history, dating back to the first half of the 18th century, and is perhaps best known for the Bivouac, a watch with an integrated altimeter complication. Ownership of the brand has changed many times over the years, and in recent years the marque was controlled by various holding companies that never did justice to the watches created in Favre Leuba’s best years. This year, however, marks a new start for the brand, under the leadership of watch industry veteran Patrik Hoffmann, who had a long stint at Ulysse Nardin, and later WatchBox. At Geneva Watch Days, they debuted a robust new collection of watches that pays homage to the brand’s history while also looking forward, giving Favre Leuba the best chance they’ve had in years for real success.  Patrik Hoffmann at Geneva Watch Days 2024 There are multiple ways to relaunch a brand. You can start small, even with a single watch, and work your way toward building a collection. Or you can go big with something akin to the kitchen sink approach, with varied collections and price points. The advantage, I suppose, of going big is that a brand will get immediate feedback on what works and what doesn’t, but it also seems risky. What if none of it works? Favre Leuba...

Top Watches for Students and Grads Worn & Wound
Sep 4, 2024

Top Watches for Students and Grads

With summer giving its last hurrah as the northern hemisphere slips towards autumn, it’s the time of year when many are headed back to school. Farewell to summer internships and vacation, and hello to new classes, friends, and experiences. But while back-to-school shopping, don’t forget about your watch game - after all, it’s frowned upon to use your phone to check the time during that lecture that feels as though it’ll never end. In today’s Chronicle, we’re looking at ten watches for every stage of your academic career, from high school to that first big job post-undergrad or trade school. With that, please open your books. With summer giving its last hurrah as the northern hemisphere slips towards autumn, it’s the time of year when many are headed back to school. Farewell to summer internships and vacation, and hello to new classes, friends, and experiences. But while back-to-school shopping, don’t forget about your watch game - after all, it’s frowned upon to use your phone to check the time during that lecture that feels as though it’ll never end. In today’s Chronicle, we’re looking at ten watches for every stage of your academic career, from high school to that first big job post-undergrad or trade school. With that, please open your books. The post Top Watches for Students and Grads appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Alarm Watches: A Complete Guide to the Most Underappreciated Watch Com Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 4, 2024

Alarm Watches: A Complete Guide to the Most Underappreciated Watch Com

If we're ranking watch styles by everyday practicality, it's hard to beat the alarm watch. Most of us are regularly needing reminders of appointments, events, and other commitments, and to have the source of such audible alerts right on your wrist, rather than buried in a pocket or a handbag, would seem to be the height of practicality even in today's high-tech world. Around the middle of the 20th Century, many watchmakers agreed and began to embrace the style, but alarm watches never achieved anywhere near the widespread popularity of other complications like chronographs and GMTs. Nevertheless, the alarm watch has played a significant role in horological history, and a handful of important brands have not only been instrumental in its creation and development but continue to rely on it as a major pillar of their collections today. Here is the story of how the mechanical alarm watch came to be, how it became a signature style of certain watchmakers, and how it continues to evolve today despite its niche status in the industry.  Johannes Dürrstein, regarded as the inventor of the alarm watch  Watches with alarm functions go back farther into horological history than most probably realize. Johannes Dürrsstein, a watchmaker in Glashütte, Germany, invented the first mass-produced, alarm-equipped pocket watch caliber in 1900. Dürrstein’s invention used an extra-long mainspring that could fuel both the timekeeping and the independent alarm hand, which was activated by a...

Hands-On: the Praesidus DD-45 “Patina” Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Lemania Longines IWC Omega Sep 3, 2024

Hands-On: the Praesidus DD-45 “Patina”

The muggy jungle of the South Pacific was no place for weak watches. As World War II raged through the early 1940s, Allied troops found themselves trailing behind the production capabilities of their Axis counterparts, and manufacturing on the homefront turned all attention to the war effort. Civilian-spec’d watches were not going to cut it in either theater of operations – the elements were too brutal for delicate equipment of any kind. Military necessity being the timeless innovator it is, the British Ministry of Defense (MoD) committed to finding robust timekeeping options for the Allies that could be produced as quickly as possible. The specifications were stringent and twelve brands were tapped for the task: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, and Vertex. Among many other things, the watches were to have a black dial, Arabic numerals and be housed in a stainless steel case. The time would be made legible with the help of luminous indices and hands – care for a little radium, anyone? Every watch was marked on the caseback with triple Ws: Wrist Watch Waterproof. The diameter ranged in sizes, depending on the brand, with Longines at the larger end of 38mm and IWC and Omega on the small side at 35mm. These watches are widely considered to be the first true field watches, as we know field watches today.  The entire set, one watch from each of the twelve brands selected for production, is a collection-grail for ...

The New Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Puts Glowing Blocks of Globolight Center Stage Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Puts Sep 3, 2024

The New Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Puts Glowing Blocks of Globolight Center Stage

The upward trajectory of Christopher Ward in the eyes of enthusiasts and collectors has been well documented over the last few years. The Bel Canto, of course, completely changed the game for the brand, and was an announcement to the broader watchmaking community of something ardent supporters have known for quite some time: that the team at Christopher Ward is capable of real outside-the-box thinking, and has an ambition to tweak expectations far beyond that of most brands in their price range. They have periodically introduced watches since that in one way or another qualify as what you might call “statement pieces,” or watches that seem to exist for the purpose of shifting the community’s expectations around the brand. The Twelve X, introduced earlier this year, is a perfect example, and I’d also point you toward a personal favorite of mine, the C1 Moonphase, which works as an art piece the same was some of the watches created by my favorite high end independents. Their latest offering, at least on the surface, is perhaps not as paradigm shifting as any of the watches mentioned previously, but it’s still generating an awful lot of chatter online for a series of dramatic improvements to just about every feature of a core offering from Christopher Ward: the dive watch.  The Trident collection, Christopher Ward’s dive watch range, is now in its 15th year, and the new C60 Trident Lumière is described by the brand as the pinnacle of the series to date. There ar...