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Bulgari all companies Oct 7, 2019

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster El Primero Radar

Having been one of the first brands to work with watch customiser Bamford Watch Department, Zenith has one gone one further with the Chronomaster El Primero Radar. Featuring a striking aesthetic reminiscent of the 1970s, it was designed by Bamford for Zenith, and will only be available at the watchmaker’s boutiques. In short, it is an official boutique edition designed by a former aftermarket customiser. Bamford Watch Department was founded by George Bamford, an entrepreneur who made a name for himself selling customised watches and clothing, but who also happens to be the son of a construction equipment tycoon. His watch division made its name customising Rolex watches, but has now become the official customiser for Zenith, TAG Heuer, and Bulgari, all companies of luxury conglomerate LVMH. According to Zenith, the red and brown livery of Chronomaster El Primero Radar was inspired by a 1916 pocket watch Mr Bamford spotted during a visit to Zenith’s factory in Le Locle. Mr Bamford used that to create the “retro-futuristic aesthetic” of the El Primero Radar. The dial is a graduated brown, while the sub-dial at three has five hashmarks that are the “negative of the [Zenith logo of a] star”, according to Mr Bamford. Dial aside the watch is identical to the standard Chronomaster El Primero, with a 42mm steel case that contains the El Primero 400 B movement.   Key facts and price Chronomaster El Primero Radar (ref. 03.2082.400/02.R830) Diameter: 42mm Heigh...

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Patek Philippe Introduces Sep 27, 2019

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234A in Steel (With Price)

Announced just yesterday, the Patek Philippe  Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Singapore 2019 ref. 7234A-001 created especially for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition is the first variation of the watch in stainless steel. It is limited to 400 pieces and will only be available in Southeast Asia. The Pilot Calatrava Travel Time was first introduced in 2014 as the ref. 5524G in a 42mm white-gold case. Later in 2018, the brand unveiled a 37.5mm version, the ref. 7234R in rose gold. While the case material is the main point of difference in the Singapore edition, its bluish grey dial is distinctive and unusual, and more so in the context of such vintage aviator-inspired dials which are typically in a darker colour for greater legibility. The dial colour is meant to evoke the seascapes of Southeast Asian nations, including the port city of Singapore. Its embossed blue calfskin strap, a first for Patek Philippe, is also unique to the watch. It is otherwise mechanically identical to the standard model. Powering it is the 294-part self-winding 324 S C FUS which features a dual time zone mechanism indicating local and home time as well as a day and night indicator for both local and home time, displayed in apertures on the dial. Visible through the sapphire case back, the movement offers a 45-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 4Hz. As are all of Patek Philippe’s current movements, it is equipped with both a proprietary Gyromax balance and a silicon Spiromax hairsprin...

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Patek Philippe Announces Singapore Grand Exhibition Sep 24, 2019

Patek Philippe Announces Singapore Grand Exhibition Catalogue

As Patek Phillippe’s 16-day Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore counts own to its opening this weekend, the watchmaker has revealed a limited edition, hardbound catalogue detailing the exhibition that will be available only at the event. A must-have for any horological library, the commemorative book includes every timepiece that will be on display at the exhibition, which is the largest to date. The tome encompasses a diversity of clocks, pocket and wristwatches spanning four centuries, from the world’s first wristwatch made for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary to some of the most complicated watches ever created – including the landmark Caliber 89 – as well as watches currently in production. The catalogue will also include the limited edition watches, clocks and pocket watches produced especially for the Singapore Grand Exhibition. The Calibre 89 Proceeds from the sale of the catalogue will benefit the National Museum of Singapore, the nation’s oldest museum. Funds raised will go towards boosting the museum’s programmes that preserve the arts and cultural heritage of the city state. Patek Philippe is no stranger to supporting the National Museum, as the catalogue donations follow its support of the redevelopment of the museum in 2015, the year of Singapore’s 50th anniversary since independence, with the creation of a unique Dome Clock that was sold at auction to fund renovation of the museum’s trademark glass rotunda. The Farquhar Coll...

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Sinn 104 Green Sep 21, 2019

Short takes: Sinn 104 (Green) A St Sa G Limited Edition

Brand new for BaselWorld 2019, Sinn has designed a limited edition of their classic pilots watch, the new Sinn 104 St Sa A G. Limited to 500 pieces globally, the Sinn 104 St Sa A G is the first 104 A model to feature a non-black dial. The watch is officially sold out and available only on the secondary market.

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Audemars Piguet Introduces Sep 17, 2019

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique

Audemars Piguet’s latest watch for ladies is an elegant complication, or more specifically, a simplification with a twist. Inspired by a wristwatch from the 1980s, the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique has only a single hand for the hours, and nothing else. But the hour hand doesn’t travel in a circle, instead it traces the oval shape of the case. Single-handed pocket watches already existed in the 18th century, when the precise time was not a concern for most people. But Audemars Piguet revived the concept in 1982 with the original Philosophique, a one-handed wristwatch styled like a pocket watch, with its crown at 12 o’clock. Though it was a men’s watch, the original Philosophique is tiny by modern standards, measuring just 32mm in diameter, making it significantly smaller than today’s Millenary Philosophique for ladies. Available in white or pink gold, the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique features a striking, contrast case finish of granular “frosted gold” and mirror-polished surfaces. Inspired by Florentine jewellery, the frosted surface is achieved by hand, with a sharp tool that creates tiny indentations on the gold. The dial is finished with an irregular “hammer-like” surface, echoing the case decoration. But more intriguing than the decoration is the trajectory of the hour hand. Instead of travelling in a circle, the hour hand follows an elliptical path, tracing the outline of the oval Millenary case. This is possible because the hour...

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Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark Sep 15, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark

Tudor has decided to honour its partnership with New Zealand’s All Blacks the only way it knows how … with a limited edition watch, the Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark. Made to not only pay tribute to the All Blacks’ illustrious history, which dates back to 1884, the Chrono Dark also celebrates the rugby team’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Panerai Introduces Aug 26, 2019

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Due Trio in Titanium

A downsized, slimmer sports watch that’s the most civilian of Panerai’s military-inspired watches, the Luminor Due is now available in three sizes with a brushed titanium case (the PAM 926, PAM 927, and PAM 964). All have a date function, and the largest 45mm model has a second time zone and power reserve. Prior to this launch, the Luminor Due was only available as a time-only in two case sizes (42mm and 45mm), so the newly launched trio substantially increases the offerings in the lightweight metal. The Luminor Due 42mm PAM 927 in titanium But perhaps more significant is the newly developed calibre inside the new models. The P.900 is a large movement at 12 1/2 lignes, or about 28mm, in diameter, but slim. In fact, it’s the thinnest movement produced by Panerai, measuring just 4.2mm high. It’s automatic and has a three-day power reserve. Not much else has been revealed about the movement yet, but it is likely to be the brand’s new entry-level calibre. The smallest of the trio is the Luminor Due 38mm PAM00926 that’s powered by the automatic P.900 movement. It’s the first time the smallest Luminor Due case is being offered in titanium. The Luminor Due 42mm PAM00927 is one step upwards in size, but otherwise identical, with the same movement and specs. And the top of the line watch is the Luminor Due GMT Power Reserve 45mm PAM000964. This is equipped with the P.4002 automatic movement that has a second time zone, power reserve and zero-reset hack seconds....

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Glashütte Original PanoInverse Aug 19, 2019

Up Close: Voutilainen 28TI - “Titanium Inverse”

Voutilainen’s signature watch is the Vingt-8, powered by the cal. 28, which is time-only but impressively constructed and beautifully finished. So earlier this year Voutilainen flipped the movement, inverting the calibre to have the interesting bits on the front, and relegating the base plate to the back. The result is the 28TI – short for “titanium inverse” – a watch that has all the trademark elements of a Voutilainen, gorgeous detailing and refined decoration, but is as over the top as a classical watch can be. Inverted movements are not new, they can occasionally be found in antique pocket watches, and over the last two decades they have gradually become fashionable in modern watchmaking. The pioneer in the current era is the Breguet La Tradition, though strictly speaking it is not an inverted movement since it was constructed from the ground up to look like a 19th century souscription pocket watch. Actually inverted is the Glashütte Original PanoInverse, and more recently, the Moritz Grossmann Backpage. But none of the other brands making such movements do so to the same quality as Voutilainen, making the 28TI unique in its class. The 28TI Telling time indirectly Mechanically the 28TI is largely similar to the standard cal. 28, with some changes in the construction for the flipped display. Additional gearing is required to drive the hands in the opposite direction, while also allowing for hand-setting via the crown. The changes start with a series o...

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Time+Tide

Bulgari Octo Chronograph Editor’s note Aug 18, 2019

The big bad Bulgari Octo Chronograph

Editor’s note: This year we’ve been a little guilty of gushing all over the brand spanking new Octo Finissimo Chronograph, but it’s worth remembering that this shiny new star isn’t the only Octo Chrono in the mix. Meet the definitely not thin Bulgari Octo Chronograph …  One of the marks of a strong watch design … ContinuedThe post The big bad Bulgari Octo Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko 5 Aug 7, 2019

The Seiko 5 is alive - again

For decades, the Seiko 5 collection has been some of the best-value mechanical watchmaking on the planet. The ability to buy an automatic watch with an in-house movement for only a few hundred dollars must be responsible for introducing tens of thousands of people around the world to watches. You would be hard-pressed to find … ContinuedThe post The Seiko 5 is alive – again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Longines Jul 29, 2019

BUSINESS NEWS: Why the Swatch Group has millions of watches sitting in warehouses

The Swatch Group have published their 2019 Half-Year Report, revealing some interesting information. The group has reported an increase in their inventory levels, which include components, movements and watches, to a total of 7.1 billion Swiss francs (up 2.6 per cent from 2018). More broadly, the group, which owns brands such as Tissot, Longines and … ContinuedThe post BUSINESS NEWS: Why the Swatch Group has millions of watches sitting in warehouses appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Omega heart It was Jul 26, 2019

INSIGHT: The Great Escapement - Explaining the Rolex with an Omega heart

It was a long time between drinks. An epic 200 years. And both beverages were served in Britain. We are talking about the invention of the lever escapement, the ‘beating heart’ of the mechanical watch, by British clockmaker Thomas Mudge around 1775. The only successful alternative, the co-axial escapement, was unveiled nearly two centuries later … ContinuedThe post INSIGHT: The Great Escapement – Explaining the Rolex with an Omega heart appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Blancpain 50 Fathoms 2019 As Jul 22, 2019

Blancpain 50 Fathoms 2019

As the original creator of the diver’s watch, Blancpain looks not only to maintain this lofty standing, but finds a way to continue evolving.

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Patek Philippe landmark complicated references ref Jul 14, 2019

Editorial: The Pursuit of Greatness in Vintage Complications

There is no real point in collecting anything unless for the sake of beauty. The moment I see a watch for the first time is always the most crucial. The pieces that ended up entering the collection always touched me viscerally when I first saw them.  Over time, almost unconsciously, as the collection took shape, the watches not only have a uniformity of standard and taste, but also reflect an intuition distinctly my own.  Taste is the developed perception of aesthetics unique to every collector, while standard pertains to quality and rarity. In the big picture, “beauty” – in both tangible and abstract terms – has come to encompass all three: aesthetics, quality, and rarity.  The watches I crave and seek, be it the best examples of the most important references of the most important manufactures, or unique “time-only” examples of incredible quality and design, must be eternal in their beauty. In this article we delve into a few complicated watches close to my heart.  Passing time cannot affect an object that is truly beautiful. Just look at two of the most important Patek Philippe landmark complicated references: ref. 1518, the first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch in the world, and ref. 3448, the first self-winding, perpetual calendar wristwatch. Their designs are perfectly balanced, timeless, as fresh today as when they were first introduced – in the early 1940s and the early 1960s, respectively.  For years, the daunting challenge had been in ...

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Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Jul 8, 2019

The inky depths of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in black ceramic 

Editor’s note: this watch is now available with a full ceramic bracelet. Read more here. The other day I was spending some time at my local Blancpain stockist, and I found my eyes consistently being drawn to the Bathyscaphe (which was only a little awkward as I was meant to be checking out Blancpain’s 2019 … ContinuedThe post The inky depths of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in black ceramic  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Jul 8, 2019

Ralph Lauren Goes on Safari

Exploring Tanzania’s breathtaking wildlife and landscapes, there is really only one watch that fits the bill - the Ralph Lauren Safari.

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Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Auction Jul 6, 2019

Sotheby’s Presents Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Auction

To mark the 50th anniversary of the lunar landing – and the Omega Speedmaster’s moment of greatness – Sotheby’s has put together a Speedmaster-only auction that’ll take place in New York on July 19, 2019. A compact sale of just 50 lots, Omega Speedmaster: To the Moon and Back is dominated by vintage Speedmasters, including examples of every mainstream reference, meaning there is something for every budget – the most affordable watch in the sale is lot 31, a Speedmaster ref. 145.022 with a low estimate of just US$3000. Notably, all the watches in the sale have been “vetted by the manufacture”, and are accompanied by archive extracts. And the estimates are generally modest, reflecting the fact that the watches are mostly in good or strong condition, as opposed to being mint or “new old stock”. The top lot is an example of the first Speedmaster ever, the ref. 2915-1. Appearing quite worn but honest in the catalogue photos, it is lot 10 and has an estimate of US$150,000-200,000. And the watch is one of two ref. 2915-1 in the sale, with the other having a lower estimate in keeping with its condition. Lot 10 – Speedmaster ref. 2915-1. Photo – Sotheby’s Other “straight lug” Speedmasters in the sale include a few 2998s, as well as examples of the uncommon 105.002 and the more common 105.003 “Ed White”. With a lower estimate than the 2915-1 but but probably more interesting is the Speedmaster “Alaska III” prototype from 1978. One...

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Omega 1957 Trilogy Railmaster better Jun 28, 2019

Is the Omega 1957 Trilogy Railmaster better than the original?

Editor’s note: It’s an tricky question, but the new Railmaster makes a compelling case for the ‘yes’ camp …  Yesterday, we showed you the Seamaster Railmaster, a modern incarnation of the classic professional model. But it wasn’t the only Railmaster released last year. No, there’s also this watch, the limited edition 60th anniversary commemorative watch … ContinuedThe post Is the Omega 1957 Trilogy Railmaster better than the original? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Jun 20, 2019

Thin end of the wedge - the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic

The first watch I saw at Baselworld 2019 was the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. I saw it at a preview dinner before the fair proper, and honestly, it kind of ruined me for other watches at the fair.  The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is just so impressive. Not only is it … ContinuedThe post Thin end of the wedge – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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May 16, 2019

Our motorbike competition is closed, but the digital buying guide is still free to download

There are only three days until our competition for Australian watch lovers to win a Royal Enfield Stealth Black Time+Tide Special Edition closes. Entering is as easy as going here, letting us know what the last watch you bought was, filling in your details and joining our mailing list for all of those subscriber-only good-times. … ContinuedThe post Our motorbike competition is closed, but the digital buying guide is still free to download appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Breguet Editor’s note Next week May 11, 2019

The world of watchmaking at Breguet

Editor’s note: Next week, Breguet will unveil its 2019 releases to the world, and we can’t wait. So, in preparation, we thought we’d have another look at Justin’s piece on the fundamentals of Breguet’s approach to watchmaking and watch design … With a brand so rich in history, the origins of what can only be … ContinuedThe post The world of watchmaking at Breguet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Casio s MTG-B1000RB Apr 17, 2019

INTRODUCING: Casio’s MTG-B1000RB is somewhere way over the rainbow

This watch is not for the faint of heart. Not only does the Casio MTG-B1000RB possess the legendary qualities of toughness for which G-Shock is famous, it’s also got one heckuva strong look.  The look is achieved via vivid treatment of the metal bezel portion of the watch; it’s a rainbow-hued ion-plating treatment and, boy, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Casio’s MTG-B1000RB is somewhere way over the rainbow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Bremont trip recently Apr 14, 2019

8 watches that put the great in Great Britain

Editor’s note: We’ve been on a bit of a Bremont trip recently, and while the aviation-based brand is perhaps the UK’s most well known watch brand, they’re not the only one. Last year, Cameron explored some of the other options … There’s a revolution afoot! And it’s taking place on British shores. While the world … ContinuedThe post 8 watches that put the great in Great Britain appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko 1970 Diver’s Re-Creation Limited Apr 13, 2019

Review: Seiko 1970 Diver’s Re-Creation Limited Edition SLA033

When the original 1970’s Seiko diver’s watch was created, its designers had only one thought in mind; to build a diver’s watch that delivered the reliability, durability, precision and legibility that serious adventurers required. Little did they know that a subsequent version of the watch with this same characteristic case design was destined to develop a worldwide following and earn the affectionate and unforgettable nickname of the “turtle”.

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Seiko 1970 Diver’s Re-creation Limited Mar 23, 2019

New: Seiko 1970 Diver’s Re-creation Limited Edition: SLA033

When the original 1970’s Seiko diver’s watch was created, its designers had only one thought in mind; to build a diver’s watch that delivered the reliability, durability, precision and legibility that serious adventurers required. Little did they know that a subsequent version of the watch with this same characteristic case design was destined to develop a worldwide following and earn the affectionate and unforgettable nickname of the “turtle”.

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TAG Heuer joins Mar 22, 2019

VIDEO: TAG Heuer joins the bronze brigade with the Autavia

Bronze - that gold-toned alloy that only gets better with age - has continued its domination of the watch world, and the latest brand to be converted is TAG Heuer, who this week released two bronze versions of their brand new three-handed Autavia.  Structurally, it’s the same as the steel Autavias - 42mm across, powered by … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: TAG Heuer joins the bronze brigade with the Autavia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph  It’s Mar 20, 2019

HANDS-ON: Thin just got complicated with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph 

It’s no secret that the Octo Finissimo has been a watch that’s kick-started the heart of Bulgari’s recent string of critical hits. And now the collection has - in addition to the core time-only model, minute repeaters and tourbillons - a chronograph.  And not just any chronograph, the world’s thinnest. This watch took Bulgari almost three years … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Thin just got complicated with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Two Broke Watch Snobs

Mar 10, 2019

Dan Henry Watches 1972 Alarm Chrono Review

The Dan Henry 1972 Alarm Chrono case is distinctly similar to the Orfina 7176s. The stand-out feature is the lugs (or lack thereof). The lug-to-lug on the case is only 45.5mm. This makes the watch wear smaller than the 41mm diameter would suggest.

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Two Broke Watch Snobs

Mar 10, 2019

Hemel Watches Review: HM Swiss Hemel Justice

Being only 10mm thick, the watch fits perfectly under any shirt or jacket and the curved (and drilled) lugs let the watch hug your wrist like it was made for it. The screw down case back continues the bead-blasted theme and contains segments that give you all the info on the watch: sapphire crystal, 316L, 100m water resistance and so on and so forth.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Jan 1, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel

I like to imagine this time of year as an Advent calendar for watch lovers, with pre-release announcements being dropped each and every day as the countdown to SIHH 2019 ticks ever closer. Today’s delectable delight comes courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre, and not only is it new, it’s also blue, and delivers an impressively novel take … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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