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Hands On: Berneron Quantième Annuel SJX Watches
Berneron 6 days ago

Hands On: Berneron Quantième Annuel

After introducing the asymmetrical Mirage and then scaling it down for the Mirage 34, Berneron has changed direction for its third release. The Quantième Annuel is rigidly symmetrical — and the brand’s first complicated watch — but continues to embody the high-effort philosophy demonstrated by the brand’s debut models. That ambition extends beyond its instantaneous annual calendar mechanism to an unusual construction with replaceable steel bumpers designed to absorb everyday wear. Initial thoughts Deadpool, the titular super hero portrayed on screen by Ryan Reynolds — himself a budding watch collector — is known for his signature catchphrase, “maximum effort.” That might as well be the unofficial slogan for Berneron, a brand that has surprised collectors with the lengths it’s willing to go to get small details just right. The Berneron QA is available with silver or black dials. This was clear from the outset. When the brand made its debut with the Mirage in late 2023, collectors fawned over its full gold construction — which extends even to the spring bars — and its ovoid cal. 233 movement that takes full advantage of its asymmetrical case, which is said to follow the Fibonacci sequence. These attributes were repeated at smaller scale — small enough to require an entirely different movement — with the Mirage 34. The QA is Berneron’s third watch, and by far its most complicated. Once again, the “maximum effort” mentality is on display in all...

Owner’s Review: the Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 8 Worn & Wound
Breguet numerals outperform another? But 6 days ago

Owner’s Review: the Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 8

I occasionally have a hard time understanding why some brands are so popular. It’s not that they don’t deserve to do well, but I see brands that don’t seem to be doing anything much different from their peers, let alone special, yet are many times more hyped. Why does one Calatrava-esque watch with Breguet numerals outperform another? But with Ōtsuka Lōtec, I get it. In fact, I don’t just get it, I’ve fallen for it. Then again, Ōtsuka Lōtec isn’t like any other brand. Jiro Katayama, the brand’s founder and lead designer/watchmaker, works from a different playbook. Where other brands pursue finishing and neoclassical elegance, he seeks beauty in the raw and industrial. Inspired by analog machines, measuring instruments, gauges, and the industrial design of the pre-digital age, there is something rough and unintentional (though completely intentional) about his watches. Considering he taught himself watchmaking in a workshop nestled in Tokyo, there is a certain logic to this aesthetic. It’s not born in the farm-strewn hills of Jura, but rather in one of the densest cities in the world. Nor is his education from a lineage of tradition. You won’t find perlage or anglage; surfaces are typically raw, brushed metal, and rarely painted, with only the occasional red highlight. While potentially a love-it-or-leave-it aesthetic, it has resonated deeply with the watch community, touching on a pure joy of mechanics. But, there is more to it as well, as his watches...

Introducing - The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in “Bleu Nuit, Nuage” Ceramic Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying 6 days ago

Introducing - The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in “Bleu Nuit, Nuage” Ceramic

Audemars Piguet has long embraced new materials and continues to expand its ceramics expertise, revealing a striking new version of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon. While the base of this 41mm model itself is familiar, the news is its material: the entire watch, case, bezel, crown and integrated bracelet are executed in “Bleu Nuit, […]

Twelve on Time - MB&F;’s Maximilian Büsser and his Personal Relationship with Time and Watches Monochrome
MB&F; ’s Maximilian Büsser 6 days ago

Twelve on Time - MB&F;’s Maximilian Büsser and his Personal Relationship with Time and Watches

Twelve on Time is a conversation series that invites leading personalities from the watch industry to step beyond their work and speak more personally about their relationship with time, creativity, and craft. Through a set of twelve questions, the column aims to lift the veil on both the individual and their perspective on watchmaking, revealing […]

Talking Watches: With Michael Friedman - Former Head Of Complications At Audemars Piguet And Founder Of Pattern Recognition Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet 6 days ago

Talking Watches: With Michael Friedman - Former Head Of Complications At Audemars Piguet And Founder Of Pattern Recognition

There are a handful of people in the watch industry whose fingerprints are on nearly every era of watchmaking and enthusiasm, and Michael Friedman is one of them. He's been the kid in the archives of the National Watch and Clock Museum, the specialist at Christie's fielding calls from Eric Clapton, the American who moved to Switzerland to become Audemars Piguet's Head of Complications, and, as of this year, the founder of his own independent watch company. Somewhere in between, he became the answer to a trivia question about a Kendrick Lamar lyric. Friedman will tell you none of that was the plan. Instead, it's the result of a decades-long fascination with why humans decided time was worth decorating in the first place, and he's spent every job since trying to answer that question from a different angle. That fascination started at Clark University in the 1990s, not in a watchmaking program but in a psychology class, where a professor named Bernie Kaplan got Friedman thinking about pattern recognition. From there he wandered into time theory: how different cultures measured it, ordered it, gave it meaning. The throughline he kept coming back to was that objects built to track time, like water clocks, obelisks, and wristwatches, have always been embellished, regardless of what they were worth. That idea, that timekeeping and decoration are inseparable, has quietly run underneath everything Friedman has done since, from advising Clapton on vintage Patek Philippe and Rolex at...

Hands-On Review: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Pastel Blue Brings The Fun Back WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Pastel Aug 3, 2026

Hands-On Review: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Pastel Blue Brings The Fun Back

I took one of TAG Heuer’s most vibrant Formula 1 Solargraph editions out for a test drive to see whether its playful design is backed by everyday practicality. What We Love: Vibrant Pastel Blue feels refreshing and full of character Recaptures the playful spirit of the original Formula 1 Lightweight wearability and Solargraph practicality suit the fun aesthetic. What We Don’t: AUD $2,950 feels steep for a quartz TH-Polylight watch. The monochromatic design may be too niche for some. Limited strap options restrict its overall versatility. Overall Rating: 8.3/10 Value for Money: 8.3/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.0/10 Few watches in TAG Heuer’s catalogue like to have fun quite like the Formula 1 Solargraphs. Originally introduced in 1986, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 editions represented a new beginning for the recently formed brand, bringing together colourful designs, lightweight construction, reliable quartz movements and an accessible price point. Original 1986 TAG Heuer Formula 1. Image reference: Magazine.Tagheuer.com The first Formula 1 editions arrived during a period when colourful quartz watches were trending, helping to reinvigorate the Swiss watch industry after the Quartz Crisis. TAG Heuer looked to join in on the fun and responded with something lightweight, accessible and closely connected to the brand’s history and heritage in motorsport. The vibrant colours and composite construction of the watches separated them from tradition...

New releases from Baltic, DOXA, Ming and more Time+Tide
Baltic DOXA Ming Aug 2, 2026

New releases from Baltic, DOXA, Ming and more

Over the past seven days, we’ve seen subtle updates to popular collections, such as the Baltic Aquascaphe, alongside limited editions created with fellow watch publication Hodinkee and collaborations that revive traditional crafts. Ming, in particular, successfully brings the old and the new together. There is plenty more on the menu, with several successful collaborations that … Continued

The Caravelle Sea Hunter Vs. The Seiko SKX And SRPE93 “Turtle” Fratello
Seiko SKX Aug 1, 2026

The Caravelle Sea Hunter Vs. The Seiko SKX And SRPE93 “Turtle”

There is a very specific kind of watch that changed how I think about this hobby. This watch was not particularly expensive, and it was not Swiss. It did not come in a velvet-lined box or carry a story about a master watchmaker in some atelier within a Swiss valley. It came in a cardboard […] Visit The Caravelle Sea Hunter Vs. The Seiko SKX And SRPE93 “Turtle” to read the full article.

eBay Finds: A Great Full Set From Hamilton, Plus Vintage Watches from Omega, Bulova, and More Worn & Wound
Hamilton Plus Vintage Watches from Jul 31, 2026

eBay Finds: A Great Full Set From Hamilton, Plus Vintage Watches from Omega, Bulova, and More

eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Omega   First up this week we have a nice vintage Omega presentation watch. The simple steel case is 35mm with slim, straight lugs that are crisp and unpolished. There is an award presentation engraving on the back for 25 years of service with the Dow Chemical Company, dated 1976. The dial is the classic Omega silver, with slim steel markers and hands and a day/date window at 3 o’clock. The dial is also signed with the Dow Chemical logo, which is not too common with Omegas. The crown is original and signed with the Omega symbol as it should. The Omega automatic caliber 1022 movement is clean and runs well per the seller. Really neat vintage Omega award watch. View auction here Vintage Hamilton Thin-O-Matic  Here’s another cool vintage award presentation watch, this time a Hamilton Thin-O-Matic Masterpiece from 1964. The 10k yellow gold fill case looks nice and unpolished, thin lugs. The back has an engraving for 25 years of service to the Nationwide Insurance company. The gold colored dial is clean and simple with applied gold markers and no date window. This gem comes complete with the inner and outer boxes and all the paperwork, including the instructions and guarantee pa...

Doxa Streamlines the “Army” Diver for Hodinkee SJX Watches
Doxa Streamlines Jul 31, 2026

Doxa Streamlines the “Army” Diver for Hodinkee

One of the cult brands when it comes to affordable, 1970s dive watches, Doxa’s latest is a vintage remake with a twist: the Sub Army 200T for Hodinkee is modelled on a dive watch developed for the Swiss army’s elite divers in 1969, but scaled down to a wearable 39 mm, compared to the chunky 42.5 mm (or even 45 mm) of most Doxa dive watches. Doxa has long mined its short but rich history of watches for underwater professionals, most famous amongst them the fictional adventurer created by novelist Clive Cussler. The Sub Army turns to a mil spec watch made for the commando divers of a landlocked country, preserving the design but refining it in size and style. It’s a 250-piece limited edition that sticks to Doxa’s sweet spot in terms of pricing with a retail of US$2,000. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked Doxa’s retro dive watches, especially the signature, oversized Sub 300 with an orange dial. Most of them have an appealing, recognisable look that’s backed up by the brand’s history. That said, Doxa makes a lot of dive watch models, enough of them that I have a hard time keeping up. Fortunately, the Sub Army for Hodinkee stands out in both style and size. At 39 mm and under 11 mm high, this has an easily wearable case that’s amongst the smallest in the Doxa catalogue, but still in the cushion-shaped format that’s a must-have for a retro dive watch of this type. The dial design is unique to the “Army” model and evokes vintage military equipment withou...

Did Longines Give The Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve A Modern Makeover? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Longines Give Jul 30, 2026

Did Longines Give The Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve A Modern Makeover? (Hands-On)

Longines have created a new spin on a heritage design, but have they done enough to give the unique watch a modern kick? Let’s find out! What We Love: A modern but non-generic colour & finish Universal, easy-wearing dimensions Unique heritage-inspired complication What We Don’t: Questionable lume Movement finishing somewhat lacking How new can an ‘old’ watch be? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Heritage revivals have become a huge part of the modern watch industry. Everywhere you look, there’s another release that’s either an exact copy of, or inspired by, a design from a bygone era. While these watches have returned to varying degrees of success, they typically all share one common thread: they put their fingers on the pulse of the watch community to see which past designs have proved wildly popular, then remaster them accordingly. Longines, however, has started to behave a little differently. While the brand has found plenty of success bringing back watches from its vast archive (case in point, the Ultra-Chron) they use them as a celebration of its brand identity, inviting the watch community to celebrate alongside it. That doesn’t mean chasing what’s popular, but rather embracing what makes Longines so distinctive in a sea of sameness. Perhaps the best example of this is the Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve. Inspired by a design from 1959, the watch was brought bac...

Hands-On: the Raymond Weil A.R.T. Collection Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak both launching Jul 30, 2026

Hands-On: the Raymond Weil A.R.T. Collection

Raymond Weil celebrates its 50th anniversary this year, Weil founding his eponymous brand in 1976. And the brand’s first integrated-bracelet watch is a nod to the seventies era of experimentation: where, in the face of impending quartz dominance, watchmakers produced bold designs like they had nothing to lose. This was the era of the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, both launching the concept of the luxury sports watch—in essence, a classier and far pricier interpretation of the Go Anywhere, Do Anything ethos that once took its inspiration from military and field watches. Only this time, going anywhere is to Monaco or St. Moritz, and doing anything is jumping off the back of a yacht into the waters of Bali.  Fifty years later, the integrated bracelet watch has never been more popular. Perhaps it’s the trickle-down effect from the cachet of those two OGs, which have taken off so much that people are willing to snap up an anniversary Nautilus desk clock, or storm your nearest Swatch store for a plastic Royal Oak. Or it’s the promise of a certain inherent and integrated toughness, eschewing the notion that we won’t ever reach 1,000-ft deep-water depths and still make it back to the boardroom. In fact, skip the beach-to-boardroom mentality. This category is all upscale by comparison, and the A.R.T. series — which, according to Raymond Weil, stands for “art, refinement, and timekeeping,” with the latter perhaps seeming redundant — captur...

Sicura Makes A Comeback After 47 Years With The Hexa 400 Fratello
Jul 30, 2026

Sicura Makes A Comeback After 47 Years With The Hexa 400

In the past decade, we have seen many once-defunct Swiss brands return to the watch industry. A few recent returnees that come to mind are Gallet and Universal Genève. Today, another legendary brand joins the ranks. It’s the return of the classic Swiss brand Sicura. Under the leadership of the famous Ernest Schneider in the […] Visit Sicura Makes A Comeback After 47 Years With The Hexa 400 to read the full article.

Introducing - The Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor, with Hammered Pewter Dial Monochrome
Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor Jul 30, 2026

Introducing - The Ming 37.06 Royal Selangor, with Hammered Pewter Dial

Founded in 2017 by photographer Ming Thein and headquartered in Kuala Lumpur, Ming is a design-driven independent watch brand distinguished by a contemporary aesthetic in which minimalism, luminescence and layered construction all play defining roles. For the latest release, Ming strays from its usual course, turning to traditional craftsmanship for the dial of the new […]

The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino Rose Gold: A Stunning Take On Contrast Fratello
Bianchet Jul 30, 2026

The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino Rose Gold: A Stunning Take On Contrast

I will admit it: when Bianchet first launched quietly in 2017, the idea of another openworked tourbillon watch wasn’t overly intriguing. Then again, as a traditionalist, I tended to dismiss watches like this in the past. But, as they say, the past is the past. Now, I enjoy more theater in my timepieces. Painstaking finishing, […] Visit The Bianchet Rotondo UltraFino Rose Gold: A Stunning Take On Contrast to read the full article.

Don’t Get A Seiko SKX - Buy This Classic Model Instead! Fratello
Seiko SKX — Buy Jul 30, 2026

Don’t Get A Seiko SKX - Buy This Classic Model Instead!

I was never a fan of the Seiko SKX. There, I said it. I know this will get me into trouble with a lot of watch lovers because the SKX’s legacy is grand. For many enthusiasts, the SKX007 or SKX009 was the gateway into the world of mechanical watches. As such, Seiko’s legendary diver was […] Visit Don’t Get A Seiko SKX — Buy This Classic Model Instead! to read the full article.

Conversations: American Watchmakers Jason Lu and Zach Smith of 1776 Atelier SJX Watches
Casio n 1776 Atelier released Jul 30, 2026

Conversations: American Watchmakers Jason Lu and Zach Smith of 1776 Atelier

The 250th anniversary of the founding of the United States did not escape notice from the nation’s fledgling watch industry. To mark the occasion, 1776 Atelier released the Liberty 250, a watch credibly claimed to be more than 90% US-made. The brand’s most American-made and technically ambitious watch to date, the Liberty 250 also illustrates the difficulty of building a complicated mechanical product without an established domestic supply chain. Its HP 917 movement is the product of extensive iterative development, incorporating newly manufactured components, a free-sprung balance and a markedly more elaborate finishing programme. We sat down with the brand’s co-founders, Jason Lu and Zach Smith, to unpack the 90% figure, discuss the challenges of manufacturing watches in the United States and understand what the Liberty 250 means for the future of the brand and American watchmaking more broadly. The Liberty 250 is the most American-made product yet from Atelier 1776. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Brandon Moore (BM): Why start a watch company in the United States, particularly given the limited domestic supplier network and the additional cost involved? Jason Lu (JL): Because this is where we live, and this is where we wanted to build it. The United States was founded on ingenuity, and American watchmaking has a remarkable history. The fact that much of the former infrastructure no longer exists does not mean it cannot be rebuilt in a new form. Th...

Citizen Introduces the Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip” Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Citizen Introduces Jul 29, 2026

Citizen Introduces the Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip” Limited Edition

It’s devilishly easy to be reeled in by the promise of a limited edition item. The allure of exclusivity, the potential for appreciation, the collectability factor: all perfectly reasonable excuses to cash in on a limited watch. Still, most enthusiasts (myself included) are understandably frustrated when these cool limited models come at a hefty price tag or feel like unobtainium due to double-digit production volume. Enter watches like the new Citizen Tsuyosa Shore “Time Slip”, which, while technically limited at 12,000 units, promises a more affordable and obtainable entry into the limited edition collectible world, while still retaining some of that “exclusive” magic.  Citizen’s Tsuyosa collection has made quite the name for itself as a bold, sub-$1,000 line of automatic watches. Most of the models involve loud colors and subtle, minimalist design, making them great choices for everyday wear, or a new enthusiast’s first mechanical watch. The Time Slip joins two other skin diver-adjacent Shore models in the Tsuyosa line. Like the non-limited previous models, it boasts 100 meters of water resistance within a 40mm stainless steel case. Inside, a caliber 8210 automatic movement powers the stop second and date (with a “cyclops” style magnifying window) functions. It’s a neat little package that allows for the robust longevity of a mechanical movement, but even with a unidirectional bezel and added legibility features like luminous hands and indices, it d...

Five Unusual Celebrity Ambassadors for Seiko, Speake-Marin, Rolex, and More Worn & Wound
Rolex Jul 29, 2026

Five Unusual Celebrity Ambassadors for Seiko, Speake-Marin, Rolex, and More

One of the things you may have noticed about Worn & Wound over the years is that we don’t pay too much attention to celebrity watch spotting or culture (I use that term very loosely). We usually just don’t find much interest in what movie and pop stars are paid to wear on red carpets and premieres. I point this out because it’s actually a pretty large segment of the watch discourse that we elect to simply not take part in – you might be surprised (or maybe not) about the sheer volume of press releases we receive notifying us of a famous person wearing a watch that they are almost certainly being paid to wear.  That said, there are exceptions. Earlier this year I wrote about how Timothée Chalamet’s support of Urban Jürgensen and other indies could reshape how those specific types of brands are viewed by the masses (the jury’s still out on that one). And, I admit, as a bit of a pop culture fiend who was raised on a steady diet of Entertainment Weekly, I have a bit of a personal fascination with the behind-the-scenes mechanics of how these relationships between celebs and watch brands develop.  Over the years, some of these brand ambassador relationships have truly baffled me. People I never would have thought would associate themselves with a watch brand at all, and also watch brands that have attracted interesting people that seem at a glance to be outside their scope are something I always make note of. It’s also kind of interesting to observe how these r...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Christie's Remi Guillemin On The Fundamental Shifts In The Auction Market Driving Record Prices Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Jul 29, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Christie's Remi Guillemin On The Fundamental Shifts In The Auction Market Driving Record Prices

This week on The Business of Watches, we take stock at the halfway point of the year for watch auctions. Remi Guillemin, Christie's head of watches for the Americas, Europe and Middle East, gives us his take on what's driving the interest of the top watch collectors these days. It's a pivotal time, with the watch auction market setting record sales results at most of the top auction houses despite global economic challenges and geopolitical tensions and conflicts.  Remi Guillemin at the rostrum in Geneva.Photo courtesy Christie's  The last time the market was this hot was in the post-COVID era of 2021 and 2022. Guillemin believes this time is different, and he tells us why references from F.P. Journe and Cartier, and (surprise!) pocket watches, are driving the market these days and how that's a fundamental shift from the hype watch driven boom post-pandemic. He also shows us some of the watches in his personal collection and reveals the grail he's still chasing.  There's plenty of watch business and strategy to discuss, and we hope you enjoy the conversation. Be sure to leave any thoughts or questions in the comments section, and we'll do our best to respond. Want to subscribe so you never miss an episode? This show is being published to the original Hodinkee Podcasts feed, so you can subscribe wherever you find your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or TuneIn. Show Notes 0:36 Remi Guillemin (Christie's website - scroll for bio) 1:00 Auctions: The Five Result...

Introducing - Laine Watches Celebrates its 10th Anniversary with a New 33mm Model and Evolutions of its P37 Monochrome
Jul 29, 2026

Introducing - Laine Watches Celebrates its 10th Anniversary with a New 33mm Model and Evolutions of its P37

In the field of independent watch brands, Laine Watches holds a special place, with its focus on finishing, movement decoration (not manufacturing), and highly respectable guillochage skills. Founded ten years ago by Finnish watchmaker Torsti Laine and based in the Canton of Neuchâtel, Switzerland, the small atelier creates classical time-only watches (even though a chronograph […]

Hands-on - The Superb Inverted Movement of the 39mm Minerva Unveiled Secret Limited Editions Monochrome
Montblanc Jul 29, 2026

Hands-on - The Superb Inverted Movement of the 39mm Minerva Unveiled Secret Limited Editions

Earlier this year, Minerva stepped out from the shadow of Montblanc to reclaim its independent, stand-alone branding and celebrated the occasion by releasing two limited editions of the Unveiled Secret. Presented in compact 39mm cases with wine-red accents and a new, inverted in-house monopusher chronograph calibre exposed in all its magnificence on the dial, rest […]

Hands On: Chanel J12 Coco Game SJX Watches
Chanel J12 Coco Game Jul 29, 2026

Hands On: Chanel J12 Coco Game

This year Chanel celebrated games of all sorts, from chess to cards and even video games with the J12 Coco Game — a quartet of Chanel’s best selling ceramic dive-ish watch featuring pixel art renditions of the Mademoiselle herself. This haute joaillerie variant is the maximalist-chic final boss of the sub-collection, set with 5.88 carats of diamonds, and equipped with the same bulletproof movement and hardy ceramic construction that makes the J12 so practical — though without the useful bezel or date. Initial thoughts Every year I look forward to Chanel’s Watches & Wonders launches — more-so than I do many “real” watchmakers — and every year the brand graces us with a one-two punch of remarkable objects and whimsical watches, often related by a common theme. This year’s theme was games, and Chanel outdid itself with a multi-million-dollar, unique (and already sold) chess set as the halo piece. Downrange there are allusions to playing cards, dominos and Scrabble, and a quartet of video game-inspired J12s. The other three models in the lineup, from left to right: ref. H11063, H11091, and H11062. Image – Chanel Pixel art developed as a natural consequence of past technological limitations, but it remains popular, particularly among independent game developers. And I suspect these watches will appeal just as much to a generation — my generation — that grew up with indie games like Minecraft, Terraria, and Undertale, rather than retro pixel art games lik...