Time+Tide
Keep calm and stare at the dial: Awake’s latest Sơn Mài hides Britain in plain sight
With a subtle nod to one of the first countries to accept the brand, the new Vietnamese lacquer watch will have you looking closer.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Time+Tide
Fratello
Watch Review: The Ollech & Wajs Astrochron — A Dive Chronograph That Earns Its Saltwater Stripes
There are timepieces that cosplay as tool watches, and then there are those that feel genuinely overbuilt for reasons completely unrelated to marketing. The Ollech & Wajs Astrochron belongs firmly in the latter camp. It’s a watch that seems to exist because somebody in Zurich genuinely thought a 500m-rated dive chronograph with a regatta timer […] Visit Watch Review: The Ollech & Wajs Astrochron — A Dive Chronograph That Earns Its Saltwater Stripes to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12
What We Know TAG Heuer has said this is the year of the chronograph. In reality, for the storied brand from La Chaux-de-Fonds, that means it's the year of the Monaco. With a series of new releases for 2026, including updated versions of the core Monaco collection with an in-house chronograph movement and updated titanium case, as well as tweaked dial design and, most significantly, the innovative and bar-raising movement tech of the new Evergraf, TAG has leaned into the square-shaped timepiece that debuted back in 1969 and affirmed its position as the brand's flagship and iconic model. So for the Formula 1 Louis Vuitton Grand Prix de Monaco 2026 this weekend, it shouldn't be a surprise that TAG is unveiling a new limited edition version of the Monaco to mark the occasion. The surprise here is that it isn't a chronograph. Rather, it's a time-only jump hour, utilizing the noted Spin Time movement from fellow LVMH property La Fabrique du Temps. It's called the TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12, and it is certainly a unique and unprecedented interpretation of the mighty Monaco. Measuring 40 millimeters in diameter, the brushed case is made of grade 5 titanium, with the crown on the right rather than the left, which is now obligatory on the Monaco chronograph. It features a sapphire crystal on both sides, meaning the skeletonized case is effectively transparent outside of the dial architecture at the center. The design inspiration here is a 12-cylinder combustion motor, and the ...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Pequignet Royale Paris Chronograph (Incl. Video Review)
Just a stone’s throw north of Neuchâtel, Switzerland and crossing the border into France, you will stumble upon a town called Morteau. Much like Le Locle and the Vallée de Joux are for the Swiss, Morteau is the heart of French mechanical watchmaking. It is here that you will find the Pequignet manufacture, a company […]
Fratello
Hands-On With My Latest Purchase — The Sinn 103 St Ty Hd
A few weeks ago, my latest watch purchase, a Sinn 103 St Ty Hd, arrived. I can’t tell you how many times I have browsed the Sinn catalogs over the years, whether on the brand’s website or in the printed versions we receive in the mail every year. The company from Frankfurt holds a special […] Visit Hands-On With My Latest Purchase — The Sinn 103 St Ty Hd to read the full article.
Monochrome
Industry News – Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier Unveils the VMF 5500, ts Upgraded Micro-Rotor Movement
As the EPHJ Geneva trade fair, the major annual gathering dedicated to precision industries, including watchmaking, medtech and high-tech manufacturing, approaches (from 16 – 19 June), several suppliers exhibiting at the show have started unveiling their latest developments. Among them is Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, a movement maker well known to regular readers of MONOCHROME Watches, […]
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Iconic Watches From The 1990s
Another Friday, another list. Last week, we picked our five favorite iconic watches from the 1980s. This week, we move on to the 1990s. If the ’80s were the decade of bad, extravagant taste, the ’90s toned it down significantly. Having said that, we saw plenty of remarkable watch designs in the 1990s. Some of […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Iconic Watches From The 1990s to read the full article.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer builds upon the Louis Vuitton Spin Time to create the Monaco Speed 12 Limited Edition
Leveraging the Louis Vuitton Spin Time movement as a base, the new TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12 is an ode to 12-cylinder engines.
Monochrome
Introducing – The TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12, a Spin Time-Powered Racing Machine for the Wrist
The Heuer Monaco was launched in 1969 as one of the world’s first automatic chronographs and the first square, water-resistant chronograph wristwatch. It became an icon thanks to its unconventional design and its close association with motorsport. Over time, the TAG Heuer Monaco has evolved in multiple directions, from faithful heritage recreations to avant-garde concepts. […]
Fratello
TAG Heuer Goes Full Throttle With The Monaco Speed 12
TAG Heuer is staying true to its motorsport heritage while pushing its horological boundaries with the introduction of the Monaco Speed 12 at the Formula 1 Louis Vuitton Grand Prix de Monaco 2026. This limited edition of 50 pieces brings racetrack adrenaline to the wrist. It features 12 rotating pistons that indicate the hours, driven […] Visit TAG Heuer Goes Full Throttle With The Monaco Speed 12 to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The First Of The Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026
At London Watch Week 2026, Pragma announced two developments that mark the next phase of the young independent brand’s journey. First, the company announced it’s partnering with retailer Ace Jewelers for the United Kingdom and the Netherlands. Second, it unveiled the first of the Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026. The exclusive P1 Perseverance […] Visit Introducing: The First Of The Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Electrifying Dial of the Ming x J.N. Shapiro 37.06 Lightning
Indie watch brand Ming was founded by Malaysian photographer, designer and engineer Ming Thein in 2017. Since then, Ming has amassed a devoted following for its contemporary design-led watches distinguished by minimalism, luminescence, layering and colour. The latest 37.06 Lightning, a joint project between Ming and J.N. Shapiro Watches, a Los Angeles-based watchmaker, is the […]
SJX Watches
Ming Taps J.N. Shapiro for the 37.06 Lightning
Ming has joined forces with J.N. Shapiro for a decidedly contemporary twist on traditional guilloche. The 37.06 Lightning proves its possible to combine disparate design languages cohesively, and to offer meaningful hand craftsmanship for less than five figures, with a few sensible trade-offs. Initial thoughts Ming and J.N. Shapiro are two of the three members of the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA), a loosely affiliated coalition of brands that also includes Fleming. The Lightning is not the first time that Ming and J.N. Shapiro have worked together — they co-developed a tantalum bracelet designed to fit watches from each brand — but it is the first time they’ve collaborated on a wristwatch. And while J.N. Shapiro is best known for more traditional designs and an obsessive focus on in-house production in the United States, the brand’s expertise in guilloche clearly translates beyond its own house style. The radiant polychromatic dial looks right at home in a minimalist Ming. The artisanal dial makes intuitive sense paired with Ming’s typical look, especially considering the lume plots and brand logo are engraved on the underside of the sapphire crystal. This approach means the dial does not have to be touched post-heat treatment, and the shimmering guilloche pattern can extend edge to edge without interruption. The Lightning is priced at a relatively accessible CHF6,750, a price point that entails a few trade-offs elsewhere in the watch — namely the move...
Worn & Wound
Ming and J.N. Shapiro Launch the 37.06 Lightning
When the Alternative Horological Alliance was formed in 2024, I think many of us who care about this sort of thing immediately began speculating about possible collaborations between the brands involved. The teams at Ming, Fleming, and J.N. Shapiro (as well as Fears and Massena LAB, two brands added after the founding of the alliance) have clear affinity for one another. And while there might not be obvious ties between the watches they make, clearly there is a perspective on the watch landscape itself that’s shared among the group, and sometimes that’s what makes for the best partnerships. Today, Ming and J.N. Shapiro have announced the launch of the 37.06 Lightning, which amounts to the first watch released collaboratively by members of the Alternative Horological Alliance (although Ming and J.N. Shapiro did work together on the AHA tantalum bracelet and the tantalum cases for the Ming Project 21). The star of the show is a dial that combines elements of what both brands excel at, and is notable as each individual dial has a bit of handcraft applied by the founders of both brands. You would expect, I think, a J.N. Shapiro branded watch to feature hand guilloche of some type as that is really the brand’s calling card at this point, and the 37.06 Lightning is no exception. It distinguishes itself, though, in the guilloche pattern used, which is referred to by the brands as “lightning guilloche” and is being used for the first time by Shapiro on this watch. Sh...
Teddy Baldassarre
Hermès H08: A Guide to the Maison's Signature Sports Watch
A deep dive into the luxury house's tradition-defying, all-terrain timepiece. More
Monochrome
First Look – The New Laps Studio Arche, A New Direction for the Parisian Brand
Over the past few years, Paris-based brand Laps has been offering watches built around graphic design and artistic expression. Collections such as Signature Art Print presented affordable quartz-powered references with fun dial designs inspired by architecture, photography, illustration and contemporary culture. The emphasis was always on visual storytelling rather than traditional watchmaking. Now the brand […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph XV Limited Edition
Quite a radical departure from the usual classic German style of the Pano and Senator collection by Glashütte Original, the Seventies range, now exclusively available as a chronograph, is characterised by its TV-shaped case and integrated bracelet, but also by a great audacity in colours – which reflects the era after which the watch is […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The 2026 Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Grigio-Blu Racing Edition
As the official sponsor and timekeeper of the historic Mille Miglia since 1988, Chopard enjoys one of the longest-running partnerships between a watch brand and a car event. The brand’s Mille Miglia collection is the watchmaking extension of co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s lifelong passion for the classic Italian road race. With the 44th edition taking place […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The 5 Best Dive Watches of 2026 So Far
Five standout dive watches from the first half of 2026, from a $649 French-assembled diver to Longines' 42mm heritage reissue.
Monochrome
First Look – The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Collection Expands with 39mm and 36mm Steel Models
Only a few integrated-bracelet luxury sports watches can claim the same continuity as the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. Introduced in 1975, at the height of the quartz era, the model combined the brand’s technical expertise with a distinctive design defined by an octagonal bezel set on a circular plinth, a tonneau-shaped case and an integrated bracelet. Over […]
Fratello
Going Tri-Tone With The Blue-Dial Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph
It’s been almost a year since Rado invited me to go to the EFG Swiss Open Gstaad tennis tournament in Switzerland. It was a memorable experience, and as a lifelong tennis player and fan of the sport, I always find it brilliant to see the professionals at work. Another thing that stood out during the […] Visit Going Tri-Tone With The Blue-Dial Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The Seiko Prospex Diver’s Watch PADI 60th Anniversary HBB002 Limited
Over the past decade, Seiko and the Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) have given us a steady stream of collaborative dive watches. We have recently seen the Prospex PADI SPB501 and Prospex PADI SRPL51 with their amazing emerald green wave-like dials. Earlier years also brought special editions based on platforms such as the Samurai […]
![Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [May 2026]](https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/16891390-a790-4ec8-9293-1e162cd07990/1C2A0782.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0&fm=jpg&q=55&auto=format&usm=12&w=2000)
Hodinkee
Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [May 2026]
Last week, we brought back the second edition of what will start to become a regular fixture on the calendar—Hodinkee Happy Hour. Watches of Switzerland SoHo was once again the venue, and Editor-in-Chief James Stacey hosted a very fun evening. Great conversations, great company, and no shortage of great watches to look at—a few of which you'll see below. If you made it out, thank you for coming. If not, we'll be doing it again at the end of June. Follow us on Instagram to be the first to know when RSVPs open. Patek Philippe 5940J. Zenith Sporto. Hodinkee Editor TanTan Wang with his Rolex Land-Dweller 36. Casio G-Shock x Hender Scheme DW-5900UD-1. Patek Philippe Complications ref. 5180/1R-001 18K Skeleton. C by Romain Gauthier and a A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus in White Gold. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Rolex Land-Dweller 36 A nice variety of local beverages were on offer from Grotta. Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5167A. Tudor Black Bay 58 and a Rolex-GMT Master II "Batman". Timex Ironman, Tudor Pelagos, Breitling Aerospace. Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar ref. 5726A. Dennison Dual Time. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface, Univeral Genève FS, Rolex Cosmograph Daytona. Sinn T50. Hodinkee's Editor-in-Chief James Stacey serving pizza and talking watches. Rolex Oyster Perpetual. Vacheron Constantin Overseas ref. 4500V. Rolex Explorer II ref. 226570. Hodinkee's TanTan Wang and Pedro Vidal. Thanks to Upside Pizza for the pizza. Rolex Submariner, Jaeger-L...
Worn & Wound
Review: the Atelier Wen Inflection – Heavy Metal on the Wrist
Heavy is the arm that wears the Inflection. Sorry, there might be a few jokes in this article about how much the Atelier Wen Inflection weighs, but that’s just the cost of making a full tantalum watch. If you’re unfamiliar, tantalum, in addition to being a rare material in watchmaking due to its difficulty to machine, is exceptionally dense. Twice as dense as steel, and thus twice as heavy. When you pick up a tantalum watch, you know it. It also has a unique color. It’s dark gray, approaching the tone of blasted grade-2 titanium, but cooler, hinting at purple. Especially when polished, it has a mysterious quality that is quite beautiful, like looking into a darkened mirror. Polishing tantalum, by the way, is notoriously tough. The appeal of the metal is clear, which is why we’ve seen a little uptick in its use in the high-end by brands like JN Shapiro, Ming, and Zenith, though, to be fair, it’s been in limited use for decades. But the Inflection isn’t just a tantalum watch; it’s a tantalum watch with a tantalum bracelet, and therein lies the Inflection’s novelty, as no other brand currently makes a fully tantalum, integrated bracelet watch. Which, as per the NYT, paraphrasing Jean Arnault says, does not make economic sense. And while it’s truly a flex and fascinating to behold, why the watch succeeds, by my estimation, is actually everything else. $29800 Review: the Atelier Wen Inflection – Heavy Metal on the Wrist Case Tantalum Movement Girard Perregau...
Teddy Baldassarre
King Seiko VANAC: The Integrated-Bracelet Luxury Watch from Japan
With its retro design and integrated bracelet style, the King Seiko VANAC is unlike anything else in Seiko's catalog.
Monochrome
First Look – The Trilobe Trente-Deux with New Colours, Gold Cases and Straps
One of the pleasant surprises of 2025 and a game-changer for the very young, Paris-based independent brand, the Trilobe Trente-Deux entered the competitive integrated-bracelet sports watch segment. More importantly, however, it debuted the Calibre X-Nihilo, Trilobe’s first in-house movement, developed, produced, and assembled in Paris. Less than a year later, Trilobe expanded the collection with […]
SJX Watches
Tudor Scales Down Black Bay Chrono with the “Bumblebee”
Tudor’s sports chronograph offers one of the strongest values in its category, but it was never compact. In a surprising move, Tudor has managed to rework the model into the Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee”, which is just 39 mm in diameter and a bit over 13 mm high. The new dimensions make this substantially trimmer than its predecessor, yet the “Bumblebee” still employs the high-spec MT5813 movement. Initial thoughts The “Bumblebee” resolves one of the key criticisms of the Black Bay Chrono. Earlier iterations of the model were appealing in many ways, ranging from value to movement, but a little chunky. The latest model is almost ideal in terms of dimensions, an accomplishment made all the more impressive as the case still contains the MT5813 movement, which has excellent technical credentials but not slimness. With a price tag of CHF5,500, the “Bumblebee” continues to be an obvious value proposition. That said, the bright yellow dial might not be for everyone (personally I prefer the pink or blue prior models), but the new case size is spot on. Given past practice, however, additional dial colours are probably in the works, so this case size will likely be available in more colours eventually. Bright but not bigger The “Bumblebee” gets its name from the high contrast dial that’s a bright yellow matched with black registers. The dial markings, hands, and indices are also black, as is the aluminium bezel insert. While yellow is an unusual colour for...
Hodinkee
The Business of Watches Podcast: Studio Underd0g Founder Richard Benc
This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the man behind one of the more successful new watch brands in recent years, Studio Underd0g. Richard Benc is just 33, and since 2020, he's built his irreverent, approachable-priced, design-driven brand to a significant size, producing about 14,000 watches last year. Richard Benc (Photo Courtesy Studio Underd0g). And he's done it all, not from Switzerland or Hong Kong, but from the U.K. Benc has grown his business with intent, making strategic investments in his supply chain, including buying full control of the assembly and after-sales service company that builds Studio Underd0g's distinct timepieces. Studio Underd0g is now the biggest assembler of mechanical watches in the U.K. and isn't only selling watches with drops and collabs, but is building up stock to make more watches available on its website. Next up for Benc and his brand is a new physical, public, and retail location. The 'D0ghouse' will open in Maidenhead this month and serve as a public showcase for the upstart brand and its operations. It's another big step for the company that comes with its own set of fresh opportunities and challenges. And Benc gives us a tease on what may be coming next - there will be a new 04Series of watches that will take the brand to a place it hasn't been (mechanically) before. But first, some watch industry business news headlines, including secondary market price rises, executive moves at the big auction houses, an...
Monochrome
Industry News – The Rise of Manufacture AMT and an Exclusive Look at Its Two New Movement Families
For once, we won’t talk about a new product – understand here, the launch of a new watch. Instead, we’ll look at the other side of the industry, with a movement supplier, Manufacture AMT, the sister company of Sellita (as part of the Sellita Holding). One of the largest movement makers in the Swiss watch industry, […]
Fratello
Tudor Unveils The Colorful Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee”
Ask Tudor fans what they would like to see from the brand, and one of the top answers would be a smaller Black Bay Chrono. Well, that wish has been granted with the new Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee.” The watch introduces a new, smaller 39mm case that is also a good bit slimmer. […] Visit Tudor Unveils The Colorful Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee” to read the full article.