Revolution
Introducing the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic
H. Moser & Cie. enters the realm of steel integrated bracelet luxury sports watches, with their Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic
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Revolution
H. Moser & Cie. enters the realm of steel integrated bracelet luxury sports watches, with their Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic
SJX Watches
Luxury sports watches are a fad that numerous watchmakers are trying their hands at – with varying degrees of success. H. Moser & Cie. is the latest brand to try its hand at a sports watch. While the fact is not a surprise, since the company has been dropping hints about it for over a year, the product is unexpectedly well executed and different. Limited to 100 pieces but with future variants in the works, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is a “bull’s head” chronograph with the buttons at two and ten o’clock and a “racing” style dial. The Streamliner is characterised by an unusual cushion-shaped case and integrated bracelet, creating a design that brings to mind watches of the 1970s and 1980s, but still manages to be novel in the crowded luxury sports watch segment. Importantly, Moser also got the functional aspects of the watch right: the case is water-resistant to 120m, and the chronograph pushers can be operated underwater to the same depth. The Streamliner on the wrist of Moser CEO Edouard Meylan Fond memories Designed by Marcus Eilinger, a freelance designer whose recent work includes watches for IWC, Montblanc and Huawei, the Streamliner brings to mind interesting, maybe even great, watches of the past that are now forgotten, so it looks fresh. Edouard Meylan (left) with designer Marcus Eilinger. Photo – H. Moser & Cie. While Streamliner’s case is reminiscent of chunky 1970s chronographs made by the likes of Omega, Heuer, and Longines, the integ...
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Richard Mille & McLaren Automotive has just launched their first collaborative timepiece, the RM 11-03 McLaren Automatic Flyback Chronograph at the 88th Geneva Motor Show.
McLaren Automotive and Richard Mille launched their first collaborative timepiece: the RM 11-03 McLaren Automatic Flyback Chronograph, a limited-edition of 500 pieces priced at CHF 180,000 plus tax.
Time+Tide
At Time+Tide we’ve been following the successes of Oak & Oscar’s founder Chase Fancher with interest. We’ve met him in Basel and New York, but most of the time we’ve been watching the evolution of his brand from afar. Overnight we saw the release of their third watch, the Jackson FlyBack Chronograph, which – if … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Oak & Oscar Jackson Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The 2017 Parmigiani Bugatti Aerolithe Performance Flyback Chronograph improves on the 2014 model with fine details, design enhancements and reduced price.
Time+Tide
The story in a second Blancpain has upped the ante on last year’s excellent Ocean Commitment watch, with a second – even bluer – limited edition. These days it’s not unique for a watch brand to have a corporate social responsibility program, usually tied in with a limited edition product. Few, however, do it with … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph Ocean Commitment II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Monochrome
Born from the French Ministry of Defence’s Type 20 brief in the mid-1950s, the Type 20 Chronograph watches featured a black dial, a flyback (retour en vol) function, a rotating bezel, and pilot-proof robustness. Alongside fellow suppliers like Breguet, Mathey-Tissot, and Auricoste, Airain’s Type 20 quickly became one of the most recognisable field chronographs. A […]
Quill & Pad
Foudroyante, which is French for lightning bolt), chronographs have always been very rare because in measuring fractions of a second by driving a hand that rotates every second uses a lot of energy. With the Nano Foudroyante: Greubel Forsey has solved the inherent drawbacks in foudroyante chronographs by using nanotechnology to reduce power consumption by an incredible 1,800 times!
SJX Watches
Representing a new era for the Roger Dubuis manufacture, the Excalibur Spider Flyback is an aggressively styled, motorsports-themed chronograph – boasting the impressive, high-spec RD780 movement with some unusual tricks up its sleeve, including an inclined balance. While the Excalibur Spider Flyback harkens back to the brand’s early aspirations in terms of movement construction and ambition, it diverges entirely in style with its supercar-inspired lines. Limited to 88 examples in pink gold, it debuted at Monterey Car Week – Roger Dubuis is a partner of Lamborghini – this variant in pink gold and blackened titanium is a new iteration of a model originally available in carbon composite. The RD780 Initial Thoughts In its past life, Roger Dubuis raised a menagerie of ambitious – perhaps overambitious – movements. While the brand thinned the herd after the 2008 financial crisis, some of that spirit lives on inside the Excalibur Spider Flyback. It attempts the dial-movement integration and three dimensionality mastered by some independent watchmakers like Greubel Forsey, though the construction is still fairly traditional, leading to some lost opportunities. The calibre is impressive – especially for a brand owned by a luxury group – but could be better. For example, the minutes counter could be inclined by 12° to mirror the balance and the imitation barrel bridge to be more convincing in terms of style and symmetry. With its over-the-top-style, the Richard Mil...
Hodinkee
Come for the cool dial, stay for the awesome movement.
SJX Watches
The Independence Skeleton Chrono is the latest from Norqain, the maker of affordable sports watches. Available in stainless steel or DLC-coated titanium, the Independence Skeleton Chrono is equipped with a new movement, the “8K Manufacture Calibre (NK24/1)”. Developed in partnership with AMT, the NK24/1 is based on the architecture of the Sellita SW500 but upgraded in several ways, including a flyback function and a column wheel to replace the customary cam. Initial thoughts The Independence chronograph is now Norqain’s top-of-the-line offering, so it costs substantially more than the brand’s prior chronograph models. Still, the Independence arguably offers a similar value proposition as past Norqain models because while it’s more expensive, it is more watch. The case has more detail and the movement is more customised for the model. The NK24/1 is a new development but clearly based on the Sellita SW500, but with enough upgrades for the price point. However, the NK24/1 is still as thick as a Sellita SW500, so the Independence is chunky and almost 14 mm high. The Independence is priced at US$6,490 on a steel bracelet, and a bit more in titanium. The value proposition is good, but not quite great. While the execution of the Independence is as good as, or even a bit better, than many of its peers in the price segment, it can’t quite reach the value proposition of the leaders in the segment, namely Tudor and Longines, both of which enjoy economies of scale practica...
Revolution
Monochrome
Hanhart is famous for its Flieger chronographs, historic pilot watches with a red pusher to prevent pilots from accidentally zeroing the stop time. However, Hanhart is also renowned for its stopwatches. In fact, Johann Hanhart started life in Switzerland in 1882 as a manufacturer of stopwatches before relocating to Germany in 1902, where his son, […]
Hodinkee
Longines brings titanium to the Spirit collection introduced earlier this year.
Worn & Wound
As an object of pure fascination, there are few watch designs that come close to H. Moser’s Streamliner. I have been low key obsessed with it since the first Streamliner appeared in early, pre-pandemic 2020. That first chronograph was, at first, baffling to me. I found myself drawn to it even though I’m not really much of a chronograph guy, integrated bracelet sports watches aren’t my thing, and, at the time, I didn’t really appreciate Moser, either. At the end of the day, the Streamliner’s subversion of my own expectations of what a luxury integrated bracelet sports watch should be are what makes it successful. If you find the Royal Oak cold and clinical, the Streamliner is warm and organic by comparison. If the Nautilus is the choice of Patagonia-vested finance bros, the Streamliner gets the endorsement of sneakerheads. Even at its most opulent, it’s the kind of watch that makes me feel kind of giddy, as opposed to slack-jawed intimidation, which doesn’t always translate into a successful wearing experience in my opinion. In a landscape of integrated bracelet sports watches that all kind of feel like riffs on each other, the Streamliner still feels like a true original to me. For those reasons, I’m always interested in new versions of the Streamliner. As a blank canvas, it’s capable of communicating all of the things Moser excels at, depending on how they decide to execute any particular reference. The latest Streamliner is an update to the original c...
Hodinkee
New functionality (including a bi-directional bezel) and clean design bring a quiet grace to the Spirit line.
Quill & Pad
Every time Ian Skellern writes the words “relatively affordable” here on Quill & Pad, he braces himself for the stream of comments reminding him that he must live in an alternative reality to most of the world. So he doesn't describe the Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono as relatively affordable (though compared to most of the watches we review on Quill & Pad he thinks it well merits that description), but he does think that it’s fantastic value and the bargain of the year. And here he explains why.
Revolution
Hodinkee
Led by one of the most interesting Rolex OPs we have ever come across, this week's vintage lineup has something for everyone.
Hodinkee
This updated take on the brand's classic chronograph offers vintage vibes in a modern package.
Quill & Pad
Wilhelm Schmid, CEO of A. Lange & Söhne, thinks that the Hampton Court Concours of Elegance is a perfect fit for his brand. Here Martin Green explains why and looks at the unique piece 1815 Chronograph created in its honor that will be auctioned for charity.
Revolution
Revolution
How Richard Mille has transcended watchmaking to impact universes outside of its own, exemplified by the RM Cufflinks & RM 72-01 Chronograph
SJX Watches
Auricoste was founded in 1854 to make marine chronometers, but is best known for the Type 20 chronographs supplied to the French military in the 1950s. The brand was one of a handful that produced watches according to the “Type 20” military specification for flyback chronographs, alongside Dodane, Vixa, and most famously, Breguet. Now Auricoste has revived the military chronograph with help from vintage watch expert Fabrice Gueroux as the Flymaster Type 20. Initial thoughts Auricoste is historically significant, as far as military chronographs go – the vintage-original Type 20 is a valuable watch – though it has fallen off the radar of most watch enthusiasts today. With the Flymaster Type 20, Auricoste is playing to its strengths. The Flymaster Type 20 should appeal to those looking for a military-inspired pilot’s chronograph. As it is made by one of the original manufacturers of Type 20 watches, the Flymaster Type 20 has added historical provenance as compared to comparably priced alternatives that share a similar aesthetic. And at 3,450 €, or about US$4,100, the watch is significantly more affordable than Breguet’s Type 20, or even Zenith’s Pilot Type 20 watches. It is also a limited edition of 299 pieces, which makes its value proposition even more attractive. Faithful re-issue Auricoste and Mr Gueroux took pains to ensure that the Flymaster Type 20 retains much of the vintage original’s DNA. The Flymaster is almost a dead ringer for the original, ...
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Cermet time again.
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A new dial for one of the core references from CFB.
Revolution
Revolution takes a brief look at the Type 20 chronograph’s rich history and brings you a great offering for a modern Type 20 at an unbeatable price point.
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