Two Broke Watch Snobs
Are In-House Movements Overrated? Lessons from 2 Tudors and an IWC
Are in-house watch movements still worth it? Real-world ownership reveals the hidden tradeoffs and why a proven alternative may make more sense.
907 articles · 7 videos found · page 3 of 31
IWC's 1939 pocket-watch-movement wristwatch for Portuguese maritime officers. Oversized 42mm for its era.
IWC's 1955 anti-magnetic engineer watch, redesigned by Gérald Genta in 1976 and revived in 2023.
Geneva luxury holding group founded 1988 by Johann Rupert. Owns Cartier, IWC, JLC, A. Lange & Söhne, Vacheron, Panerai, Piaget. Largest haute-horlogerie portfolio in the industry.
Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum IWC thread.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Are in-house watch movements still worth it? Real-world ownership reveals the hidden tradeoffs and why a proven alternative may make more sense.
Teddy Baldassarre
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
WatchAdvice
In 2025, IWC Schaffhausen introduced a first for the Ingenieur collection, unveiling three new models in a compact 35mm case size. For this hands-on review, I had the chance to spend some time with one of my favourite pieces from the new lineup. Read on to find out why it left such a lasting impression! What We Love: 35mm case size wears exceptionally well Gold toned grid patterned dial works beautifully with an 18k 5N gold case Wrist prescence of the watch is undeniable What We Don’t: Non-skeletonised rotor 42-hour power reserve can be slightly low by modern standards. With an open case back, this 35mm Ingenieur doesn’t have an anti-magnetic soft iron cage like older Ingenieurs. Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Inspired by Gérald Genta’s iconic 1970s Ingenieur SL design, the 35mm Ingenieur timepieces retain the signature elements that define the original collection, from the integrated bracelet to the distinctive grid dial and the five-screw bezel, now perfectly re-proportioned into a smaller, more wearable format! IWC Schaffhausen has several stand-out collections from past to present, with one of the most influential in shaping the brand being their Pilot’s collections. Then we also have the Portugieser, which played a pivotal role in shaping IWC’s identity with its elegant design and technical watchmaking. Alongside these two iconic collections sits the Ingenieur. 1955 IWC Ingenieur Ref....
Worn & Wound
I’m writing this just a few hours jetlagged from an IWC preview in Los Angeles, where I had the chance to see much of what the brand has in store for this year. Now while most of what I saw has to stay under embargo for now, one piece I can talk about is the new Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, and it’s one I feel most watch enthusiasts didn’t see coming. I should admit something up front: the Portugieser line has never been a true favorite of mine. I’ve always thought it was a little too dress-forward and formal. That’s not a criticism, just my own preference. I just typically gravitate toward pieces that feel sportier or more tool-like. Which is exactly why this release surprised me. This is the sportiest Portugieser we’ve seen yet, and it really shifts the tone of a collection that has previously leaned more elegant. The Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium (Ref. IW371631) keeps the familiar 41mm proportions of the modern Chronograph but the case, crown, and pushers are now crafted in Ceratanium, IWC’s proprietary titanium-based material. If you’re not familiar with Ceratanium, IWC developed this material over five years and it is a patented, matte-black material made by firing a special titanium alloy in a kiln, resulting in a scratch-resistant, non-coated surface. Ceratanium has historically felt most at home within IWC’s more tool-like utilitarian watches, particularly in the Pilot’s Watch line. We’re big fans of this material at Worn & W...
Teddy Baldassarre
In 2017, IWC introduced a proprietary alloy called Ceratanium, or ceramized titanium, a hard, lightweight material that combined the best of ceramic and titanium. Oh, and it happened to look pretty cool as well. The material has been used sparingly in the intervening years, largely appearing across the brand’s sport-watch portfolio, from the Pilot to the Aquatimer collections. This week, Ceratanium is making its first appearance in the Portugieser collection with a new, limited-edition 41mm chronograph featuring a Ceratanium case affixed to a black rubber strap. In an effort to drive the point home, the rest of the watch is fully murdered out making the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium a decidedly sporty take on this otherwise dressier collection. [toc-section heading="What's New"] The new watch is the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, and it turns the classic chronograph layout on its head by rendering every detail in shades of black (insert Henry Ford quote here). The Portugieser is a historic watch with roots that date back to the late 1930s, and its modern aesthetic is largely referential to that history. That underlying design remains intact here, with a large, open dial hosting Arabic numerals at each hour, and a set of leaf hands tracking the time against them. The two subdials are arranged vertically, retaining a symmetric layout that recalls the original time-only references that had subsidiary seconds located at 6 o’clock. Using Ceratanium (which ha...
SJX Watches
One of the longest-lived models in the IWC catalogue, the Portugieser Chronograph is simple, distinctive, and handsomely proportioned. Now it’s undergone a surprising makeover to create the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, which has just debuted publicly on Ed Sheeran’s wrist during the musician’s tour of Australia. Now in its second generation with an in-house movement, the Portugieser Chronograph has a clean aesthetic with vertically laid out registers and a large-but-thin case. Usually available only in gold or steel, the case is now Ceratanium, essentially titanium that’s been treated to form a hard ceramic layer on its surface. Ed Sheeran wearing a Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium during his concert at the Marvel Stadium on February 26 in Melbourne, Australia. Image – Mark Surridge Initial thoughts IWC doesn’t put out many interesting watches now (regrettably), but the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium certainly stands out. Though it’s essentially a cosmetic variation of a familiar model, it is appealing. I’ve long been a fan of the Portugieser Chronograph; I like the proportions and design. The design is now over 30 years ago but still feels fresh. The Ceratanium version is odd yet likeable. The all-black livery feels like a mismatch with the classical style, but somehow it works and fits the minimalist look. Despite the appeal, the new Portugieser is expensive. It costs 50% more than the steel model, which feels like too much notwithstanding th...
Monochrome
Since its introduction in 1998, the classic IWC Portugieser Chronograph (ref. IW3914) has barely evolved visually. It has only undergone a technical upgrade in 2020, with the introduction of a new generation featuring a manufacture calibre inside (ref. IW3916). And that consistency in the design and overall sporty-chic, nautically-inspired spirit is what makes this watch […]
Hodinkee
A uniquely sporty and stealthy take on one of IWC's most recognizable designs.
Time+Tide
IWC's dressy chronograph gets an unexpectedly sporty, all-black makeover.The post All black everything for the new IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
I have always thought of the IWC Portugieser as an elegantly styled chronograph or a clean time-only watch. Until today, that is, because the brand from Schaffhausen introduces an all-black Portugieser Chronograph in Ceratanium. Yes, please take a moment to let that sink in. Previously, the light, scratch-resistant Ceratanium material was used only in IWC’s […] Visit Introducing: The All-Black IWC Portugieser Chronograph In Ceratanium to read the full article.
Revolution
Deployant
IWC unveils their first Portugieser model in Ceratanium - their version of ceramic, in a new release of the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium.
WatchAdvice
The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Ceramic is a stealth watch with Genta’s DNA baked into the material. But does it stand on its own? Let’s find out! What We Love The Ingenieur design is adapted to black ceramic Dial legibility is still present Finishing of the material makes this a standout watch What We Don’t Lack of the quick link adjustment system on the bracelet The all-black look may not be for everyone’s tastes The 42 mm sizing makes this watch wear different to the Ingenieur 40 and may not suit a smaller wrist Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Ingenieur dominated IWC’s 2025 Watches & Wonders releases, expanding into new sizes and materials. And, of course, there was the quickly sold-out green dial inspired by the vintage Ingenieur SL worn by Brad Pitt in F1: The Movie. But one model possibly stood apart from the rest: the 42 mm all-black ceramic Ingenieur. Not because it was louder, but because it fundamentally changed how the Ingenieur is built, worn, and perceived. We were lucky to catch up with IWC’s CEO, Chris Grainger-Herr, who explained that developing the Ingenieur in an all-ceramic case and bracelet wasn’t as simple as remaking the watch in a different material. Ceramic is notoriously hard to work with, and it is not a case of a simple material swap. It requires a lot more attention – one reason why the Ingenieur is in a slightly larger 42 mm size. Myself, Chris Grai...
Fratello
George Russell took fourth in last year’s Formula One championship in his Mercedes-AMG Petronas race monster. He did so by reaching the podium nine times, including two wins in both Canada and Singapore. No, he didn’t become the world champion, but bookmakers have high hopes for him in 2026. That’s probably why IWC honors the […] Visit IWC Introduces George Russell’s First Limited-Edition Pilot’s Watches to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Ahead of the new F1 season, IWC announces its first collaboration with an F1 driver.
Worn & Wound
Recently, over the course of a brutally cold weekend here in Concord, NH, I rewatched last year’s F1, the Brad Pitt vehicle that is essentially a very long advertisement for the sport for which it is named. It’s a fun movie, and even though it was made for giant screens and deafening surround sound systems, it played just fine at home as a fairly standard sports movie. I had been wanting to give the film another look as it was recently nominated for Best Picture at the Academy Awards (a bit of a surprise to most observers) and figured it was time to see how it stood up to a repeat viewing. The answer is that it’s still really enjoyable popcorn fare, but my one real reservation is in the almost nonstop product placement. IWC watches factor heavily into the texture of the film itself. If you look closely, you can see a watch or the IWC logo in more scenes than not. It speaks to the importance of the relationship between IWC and F1, so I was not at all surprised when I learned that IWC’s first big novelty release of the year would be a pair of watches representing a collaboration between the brand and F1 driver George Russell, who races for the Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS team, which IWC has had a longstanding relationship with. Unlike previous watches IWC has released as part of their partnership with Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS, this one is tied to a specific driver. Rather than the teal color highlighted in those earlier watches, these feature a more traditional blue hue, ...
Monochrome
British driver George Russell, currently racing for Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team, joined IWC’s paddock of ambassadors in 2022. Exchanging the steering wheel of his F1 for the design board, Russell worked alongside IWC’s creative team to design the new limited edition Pilot’s Watches, emblazoned with the F1 pilot’s signature blue colour featured on his […]
Time+Tide
The talented young British driver finally gets his own IWC special editions ahead of the 2026 Formula 1 season.The post F1’s George Russell gets his own IWC special editions in black ceramic and his signature blue colorway appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
IWC once again collaborates with Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team Driver, George Russell to release two limited edition Pilot's Watches.
Revolution
Monochrome
Despite a challenging political and economic context worldwide, and the undeniable impact of tariffs on exports to the US, luxury powerhouse Richemont, owner of Cartier, IWC, JLC, and Vacheron, seems to remain strong. Indeed, in its latest quarterly report for the three-month period ended 31 December 2025 versus the prior-year period, and at constant exchange […]
Hodinkee
An evening of cocktails and conversation with IWC North America Brand President Stanislas Rambaud and Hodinkee's Mark Kauzlarich.
Deployant
The Limited-Edition Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse is a commemorative timepiece released by IWC Schaffhausen to mark the upcoming Lunar New Year. Limited to 500 pieces, it features a 42.4mm stainless steel case, a burgundy dial with gold accents, and the IWC-manufactured 52011 caliber offering a seven-day power reserve. The rotor is shaped like a galloping horse, visible through the sapphire caseback.
Fratello
Every year, the watch industry delivers a flood of releases that range from quietly brilliant to perhaps a little forgettable. Indeed, 2025 has been no different. Amid anniversary reissues, limited editions, and the like, a handful of releases stood out to me as watches that genuinely got things right. These are not necessarily the most […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 - Henry’s Picks From IWC, Seiko, Longines, And More to read the full article.
Revolution
Fratello
There’s something about a classic dress watch that resonates beyond fleeting trends. For me, it all started with the vintage IWC “Calatrava” Cal. 89 that I inherited from my grandfather. It is a watch from a bygone era when watchmaking was all about understated elegance, mechanical mastery, and timeless design. Recently, my Fratello colleagues discussed […] Visit Why Every Watch Collector Needs A “Calatrava” to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Teddy Baldassarre
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Teddy Baldassarre
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
SJX Watches
A highlight of IWC’s long-standing partnership with Laureus Sport for Good, the organisation’s annual charity auction returns for 2025 with something a little different. Rather than a simple blue-dialed edition of a standard model, IWC is instead offering an existing watch with special provenance. Hammering this Saturday, the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff was worn by the Mercedes-AMG team boss himself during the recent Singapore Grand Prix. As ever, all proceeds benefit the Laureus Foundation Switzerland. Bidding is currently live online, and will conclude on October 25th at the Laureus Charity Night in Zurich. Initial thoughts IWC has cultivated an enduring partnership with Laureus Sport for Good dating back to 2005. It’s a good cause that uses sports programmes to improve the lives of children in over 40 countries. For the annual charity auction, IWC typically produces a special model with a blue dial for the charity auction each year. Over time, most of the brand’s collections have been tapped for service, from the Da Vinci to the Portofino and the Portugieser. Naturally, the emblematic Pilot’s Watch has reported for duty over the years as well. For 2025, IWC has departed from its own norms and is offering a single unit of the existing 100-piece Toto Wolff edition of the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL. The twist is that it’s the actual watch worn over race weekend by team principal Toto Wolff himself, so the printed signature on t...
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.