Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys

The Breguet Type XX (and the Type 20!) are Back in a Pair of Vintage Inspired New References

When it comes to pilot chronographs, particularly military inspired pilot chronographs, the Type XX sits at the top of a very large pile of well loved and highly collectible watches. Most often associated with Breguet, the Type XX is analogous to the “Dirty Dozen” W.W.W. field watches produced by a number of manufacturers in the WWII years on a contract basis for the British Ministry of Defense. In the case of the Type XX, it was the French military who contracted watchmakers to create a high spec chronograph. The requirements were specific and rigid: black dials, chrono registers at 3:00 and 9:00, the capability to time events up to 30 minutes, a 38mm case, and a 12 hour bezel among them. Mathey-Tissot and Dodane were among the brands charged with manufacturing these watches along with Breguet. Over the years, the style of this simple pilot’s chronograph has influenced countless other brands and has been straight up copied by many, and along the way it became a staple of the modern Breguet lineup. That is, until the contemporary Type XX was discontinued a few years ago. Now, the Type XX is back in a fairly big way, in two different versions with two different names that I promise are not confusing at all.  Announced yesterday, Breguet has unveiled an all new Type XX (the civilian version) and a Type 20 (the military version). References 2067 and 2057, respectively, both carry aesthetic elements from classic versions of the watch, but have some subtle (and also some...

Hands On: Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067

Following the launch of a revamped flagship perpetual calendar, Breguet now reboots its famous pilot’s chronograph with the Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067. Descended from the military-issue watches introduced in the 1950s, the new Type XX makes its debut with a pair of watches – one military inspired and the other civilian – that are identical on a fundamental level but distinctly different in look and feel. Significant enhancements have been introduced with the latest-generation Type XX, including more sophisticated case finishing, but most notable is the newly-developed flyback chronograph movement with an extended power reserve and high-frequency, 5 Hz escapement. (The new models are referred to as Type XX, as are vintage pilot’s chronographs sold to the civilian market. Vintage military-issue chronographs are known as Type 20, as is historical practice.) The ref. 2067 modelled on the civilian Type XX of the 1960s Initial thoughts After introducing the Type XX and Type XXI, Breguet has returned back to the Type XX model name with a new watch that retains many of the distinctive design elements that define the Type XX, while incorporating significant improvements to the design, details, and of course movement. At 42 mm, the new Type XX is a large watch, but sized correctly for a pilot’s chronograph. The lugs are also relatively short so the watch sits well on the wrist. And enthusiasts will appreciate the fact that the case size corresponds to the movement....

A Closer Look at the Ressence Type 8S and Type 1 Round (w/ Video)

It’s hard for a brand to stand out in the halls of Watches and Wonders. After all, the place is literally filled with some of the newest and finest horological creations. Yet Ressence manages to, even if they maintain a relatively low profile overall. Their booth isn’t elaborate, nor is there loud music or flashy lights to draw you in. Instead, their evenly lit room invites you in with a seat at a bar that doesn’t serve drinks, but rather a unique vision of watchmaking. And, naturally, it’s the watches themselves that make the booth stand out. While certainly in the realm of the high-end, their watches aren’t ornate or fussy. They aren’t traditional. There are no tourbillons or minute repeaters to ooh and awe at, nor gold or platinum to catch your eye with a glint. Instead, they are a reprieve from such things. Their watches look like precision technology from a future utopian world. And, well, that’s half true. Meeting with Ressence is a combination of seeing novelties and talking about manufacturing. A color change and how that affects tolerances. Years of R&D; to make already incredibly fine gaps between the moving components even finer. The word “micron” gets used with some frequency. They are a brand about precision technology, cleverly executed for a seemingly effortless result. This year, the focus was on two novelties: the Type 8S, and the Type 1 Round. The former was a new version of last year’s big announcement presented in a soothing sage gree...

VIDEO: The new Ressence Type 8 S in Green and Ressence Type 1 Round Night Blue

Join Ressence Founder Benoît Mintiens and Revolution Founder Wei Koh as they discuss the new 42.9mm Ressence Type 8 S in Green that is just 11mm thick and weighs 42g. Next, they introduce the Ressence Type 1 Round Night Blue in 42.7mm case size. As you might be aware, the unique Ressence Orbital Convex System […]

Taking flight with the Breguet Type XX, XXI and XXII

Initially created for the French Ministry of Defence for the French Air Force, the Breguet Type XX, XXI and XXII are timekeeping devices steeped in the history of aviation-specific wristwatches. First released in 1954, the Type XX was the first aviation watch ever created by the storied Swiss watchmaker, who specifically produced the timepiece at … ContinuedThe post Taking flight with the Breguet Type XX, XXI and XXII appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

SIHH 2019: Ressence Type 2 and Model Updates

Introducing the Ressence Type 2, a slimer Type 1 and a new dial for the Type 3.

Ressence Type 3: Atypical watch with an atypical display and approach to telling the time

Ressence is one of the new brands who seem to have sprouted out of nowhere with innovation burtsting from their ears. Their concept of a watch with wandering dials suspended in a fluid that refracts light like the air, so the orbiting indications appear to be on the crystal. As usual, technical information, and theRead More

Interview - Adrian Bosshard, CEO of Rado, About the Mastery of Ceramics and the New Integral Collection

When it comes to ceramics, Rado is the brand that comes to mind. Rado presented its first ceramic watch in 1986, just 40 years ago… This anniversary marks not only a technological breakthrough, but also the beginning of a long-standing expertise that has become a signature. This special occasion allows us to sit down with […]

A Technical Perspective - A Comprehensive Guide to Watch Crystals - History, Types, Advantages, and Disadvantages

In the world of watches, the crystal is one of the most crucial yet often overlooked components of a timepiece. This thin transparent cover protects the dial from dust, moisture, and external damage while allowing clear visibility of the watch’s timekeeping functions – and, in many modern watches, its movement, too. Over the years, watchmakers […]

Hands-on - Up Close and Personal with the 38mm Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075

If you’re a returning reader of MONOCHROME or have been watching our video reviews on YouTube, you probably know that we tend to remain fairly neutral. Why? Because we believe you are wise enough to make your own judgement… But today, I’ll be a little biased, to say the least. After all, all the team members are […]

Introducing - The New Ressence Type 7, The Brand’s First Integrated Metal Bracelet and GMT Watch

The orbital-infused world of Ressence is a rather special one, but it has just gotten even more exciting. Ever since its debut in 2010, the Belgian brand has etched away its place in the independent watchmaking scene with highly original creations revolving around a unique concept. From the Type Zero to the oil-filled Type 3 […]

Introducing The Ressence TYPE 9 In Gray And Aqua

New: the Ressence Type 5X - Warm up the Gentleman Driver in you (specs and price)

Ressence partners with Eugenio Amos, founder of Automobili Amos to create a new bezel design for their Type 5 which relates to the Lancia Delta Futurista.  Ressence Type 5X Short Pitch about the watch. Second 10th anniversary piece in the Ressence collection X. Limited to 40 pieces. Motoring focused creation related to the passage ofRead More

Up Close and Personal: RESSENCE Type 1

Seeing James Cameron’s Historic Rolex Deepsea Challenge Up Close

I have seen a lot of significant Rolex pieces over the years, from steel Daytonas to military-issued Submariners and GMT-Masters that have literally flown around the globe (thank you, Cliff Tait). Now, I’ve also been lucky enough to see a Deepsea that went to the bottom of the Mariana Trench. I love museums, and the […] Visit Seeing James Cameron’s Historic Rolex Deepsea Challenge Up Close to read the full article.

Tudor taps into the “daring spirit” of its ambassadors for new Black Bay Chrono Pink

Tudor has launched a new Black Bay Chrono Pink inspired by ambassadors David Beckham’s Inter Miami CF and Jay Chou’s love for pink. It is not just a dial evolution, it is also presented on a five-link bracelet with a T-fit clasp – a first for the range. Unfortunately, Tudor claims “only a small number … ContinuedThe post Tudor taps into the “daring spirit” of its ambassadors for new Black Bay Chrono Pink appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Reactions: The Rolex Deepsea D-Blue Dial Edition

Whenever Rolex is about to launch a new timepiece, there would always be a plethora of hype and speculation in the watch community. It was therefore not surprising that there was a lot of excitement when Rolex announced that they will be launching a new variant of the popular Deepsea Seadweller (also known as theRead More

Just Because: The Pros And Cons Of The Different Types Of Travel Watches

The invention of time zones gave us multi-time-zone watches. But which works best when you're on the road?

Ming Taps J.N. Shapiro for the 37.06 Lightning

Ming has joined forces with J.N. Shapiro for a decidedly contemporary twist on traditional guilloche. The 37.06 Lightning proves its possible to combine disparate design languages cohesively, and to offer meaningful hand craftsmanship for less than five figures, with a few sensible trade-offs. Initial thoughts Ming and J.N. Shapiro are two of the three members of the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA), a loosely affiliated coalition of brands that also includes Fleming. The Lightning is not the first time that Ming and J.N. Shapiro have worked together — they co-developed a tantalum bracelet designed to fit watches from each brand — but it is the first time they’ve collaborated on a wristwatch. And while J.N. Shapiro is best known for more traditional designs and an obsessive focus on in-house production in the United States, the brand’s expertise in guilloche clearly translates beyond its own house style. The radiant polychromatic dial looks right at home in a minimalist Ming. The artisanal dial makes intuitive sense paired with Ming’s typical look, especially considering the lume plots and brand logo are engraved on the underside of the sapphire crystal. This approach means the dial does not have to be touched post-heat treatment, and the shimmering guilloche pattern can extend edge to edge without interruption. The Lightning is priced at a relatively accessible CHF6,750, a price point that entails a few trade-offs elsewhere in the watch — namely the move...

Ulysse Nardin Taps Designer Amoureuxpeintre for a Minimalist Skeleton

A monochromatic reinterpretation of Ulysse Nardin’s skeleton watch with a prominent “X”, the Blast “Amoureuxpeintre” is a collaboration with Vsevolod “Sever” Cherepanov, a Kyrgyz streetwear designer also known as Amoureuxpeintre who was one of the first to use augmented reality prints on fabric. Restrained and minimalist, the new Blast has a 42 mm sandblasted titanium case and an unusual frosted sapphire dial that partially hides the skeletonised “X” movement, leaving the calibre only faintly visible. According to Ulysse Nardin, the artist drew inspiration for the design from frosted glass panels found in offices. Initial thoughts Renowned for pioneering silicon components in mechanical watchmaking with its groundbreaking Freak, Ulysse Nardin has made some odd design choices in recent years, including the decision to make the letter “X” a centrepiece of its designs. The collaboration with Amoureuxpeintre hides the “X” and transforms the Blast case into something low-key with its all-black finish, and the result is a surprisingly different, and appealing watch. Styling aside, the latest Blast is typical Ulysse Nardin in terms of mechanics, which is to say accomplished. Although the Blast collection does not share the same status or historical significance of the Freak, it still demonstrates Ulysse Nardin’s commitment to contemporary horology with a high-spec, in-house movement that has all of its regulator – hairspring, balance, escape, and pal...

Seiko taps Japan-born, Australia-based artist Kentaro Yoshida for a trio of vibey 5 Sports LEs

Seiko collaborates with the in-demand artist on a series of vibey 5 Sports models inspired by Australian surfing and skating culture.The post Seiko taps Japan-born, Australia-based artist Kentaro Yoshida for a trio of vibey 5 Sports LEs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Opinion - Making Sense Of The Yellow-Gold Rolex Deepsea 136668LB, A Diving Weight For The Wrist

Back in April, the Rolex Deepsea 136668LB was one of the most talked about watches of Watches & Wonders. The Deepsea has always been Rolex’s biggest and boldest dive watch (until the 50mm wide Deepsea Challenge 126067 came along that is, but we’ll ignore that for now). It takes the iconic design codes of the […]

Tips For The Wines And Vintages To Buy In 2023

New year is traditionally a time for taking stock and wine lovers are no different. Many will review their own cellars, assess what is ready for drinking, what needs more time and in some cases, what might have passed its best window. They will also look to the future. What should they target? Ken Gargett shares his tips on the wines to consider adding to your cellar.

#Kixntix: The casual luxury of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Titanium GMT Chronograph with Louis Vuitton high tops

Within seven years of its debut in 2017, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo is already a modern-day classic, its slender and aggressively architectural shape transforming the finesse of the O.G Octo from 2012. Every Octo Finissimo with its paper-thin movement is a feat of engineering, akin to the art of building a scale model galleon in … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: The casual luxury of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Titanium GMT Chronograph with Louis Vuitton high tops appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Opinion: Why the Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller Is The Ultimate Divers’ Watch

We take an in-depth look at the new Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller D-Blue, and discover why it might just be the ultimate timepiece for commercial divers.