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Type XX Breguet

The 1954 French military flyback chronograph - reborn in-house in 2023.

Breguet Debuts the Type XXI 3815 Limited Edition SJX Watches
Breguet Debuts Jun 17, 2021

Breguet Debuts the Type XXI 3815 Limited Edition

While Breguet is associated with classical timepieces – and a history laden with gems that continue to inspire watchmakers today – it does have a significant history with military watches. In the mid-20th century, Breguet, along with a few other watchmakers, supplied the French military with the “Type 20” aviator’s chronograph. Breguet has referenced that military history since the military-inspired Type XX of 1994, which was succeeded by the more complex Type XXI and Type XXII. And now Breguet has just unveiled the Type XXI 3815, which has a titanium case and strikingly peculiar dials in two colours. The version with orange “lume” is especially striking Initial thoughts Breguet has been iterating the Type 20 for almost 30 years – rumour has it a replacement for the base model is due next year – and the Type XXI was an upgrade to the original that never gained the popularity of the original. The new Type XXI 3815 is the third variant of the model to date, and perhaps a missed opportunity. Most elements on the watch are taken from historical models, each correct on its own way – including faux-radium lume and a “big eye” register – but combined haphazardly. The result is an aesthetic that tries to be bold but ends up looking odd. The combination of elements on the dial leaves it off balance. The “big eye” counter feels too big, creating the impression it is far off centre, while the text under 12 o’clock leaves the dial top heavy. Add to t...

Up Close: Breguet Marine 5517 in Titanium SJX Watches
Breguet Marine 5517 Jan 23, 2020

Up Close: Breguet Marine 5517 in Titanium

Breguet today is highly regarded for its watches that classically designed but often powered by innovative, high-tech movements, like the Classique Chronométrie 7727 with magnetic balance pivots, or the recent, elaborately finished skeleton tourbillon 5395. The brand is not, however, known for its luxury-sports watches (its line of Type XX aviator’s chronographs are entry-level and not quite sports watches). But last year Breguet unveiled the latest – and best – version of its luxury-sports watch, the Marine 5517. An under-appreciated contender in the category, the new Marine more conservative in style than its competition, but built to an admirably high standard. The Marine 5517 in titanium with a matching bracelet Horloger de la Marine Unlike its competitors, Breguet was relatively late to the luxury-sports watch segment (though not as late as A. Lange & Söhne, which launched the Odysseus last year); the original Marine only made its debut in 1990. The model name was inspired by Breguet’s appointment in 1815 as Horloger de la Marine – clockmaker to the French navy, an appointment it held for over 150 years. Designed by Jorg Hysek, perhaps the most famous watch designers of the 1990s, the first-generation Marine was distinguished by its fluted, domed crown, but otherwise looked pretty much like any other Breguet. That was replaced in 2005 by the second generation, a major redesign that gave it a more distinctive style. The practical robustness of the Marine...

Breguet has nailed it for Only Watch 2019 Time+Tide
Breguet has nailed it Nov 7, 2019

Breguet has nailed it for Only Watch 2019

Only Watch 2019 is now less than 24 hours away from kicking off, and Breguet has really knocked it out of the park with their entry in this year’s charitable auction. The Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2019 is, I think we can all agree, a handsome timepiece, and that’s largely because the pièce unique … ContinuedThe post Breguet has nailed it for Only Watch 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Breguet Type 20 for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
Breguet Type 20 Oct 29, 2019

Hands-On: Breguet Type 20 for Only Watch 2019

Breguet’s contribution to the most recent Only Watch auction in 2017 was a unique, enlarged version of its inventive in-line perpetual calendar that had the calendar indications arranged in a column vertically across the dial. Though clever and unusual, the watch was probably too esoteric and classical for current tastes, and it sold for 110,000 Swiss francs, just 10% above the high estimate, reputedly to a discerning collector in Australia. This year’s upcoming Only Watch, however, includes a very different Breguet that should sell for a multiple of its estimate. The Type 20 for Only Watch 2019 is essentially a spot-on replica of the two-register aviator’s chronograph Breguet supplied to the French military from the mid 1950s – exactly the type of watch that is desirable now. Specifically, it’s a remake of the first generation Type 20, which was marked “5101/54” on the case back, denoting the order number, “5101”, and the year of 1954. More specifically, it’s based on the Type 20 made for the French air force, distinguished by equal-sized sub-dials; watches for the naval air arm had oversized minute counters. Named after the French military specification for pilot’s chronographs, itself derived from the Second World War German air force chronograph design, the original Type 20s were produced by a variety of watchmakers, including Vixa, Dodane, and Auricoste. Breguet examples, however, are the most valuable. Note that “Type XX” refers to the same...

Breguet Introduces the Type 20 for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Jul 4, 2019

Breguet Introduces the Type 20 for Only Watch 2019

Among vintage military watches, some are more interesting and significant than others. They include the IWC Mark 11 and Rolex “Milsub”,  and also the early Type 20 chronographs made by Breguet for the French air force and navy in the 1950s. Breguet has revived the first-generation, military-issue Type 20 for Only Watch 2019. The one of a kind remake is faithful not just in terms of dimensions and aesthetics, but also the movement. Instead of a modern calibre, it is powered by a refurbished, vintage Valjoux 235 movement, just like the original. Breguet Type 20 “Only Watch” And a bit of nomenclature explanation before proceeding: “Type 20” refers to a French military specification for pilot’s chronographs, which refers to the original, military-issue watches. Watches produced for the civilian market, including the modern day models, are identified by the model name in Roman numerals – Type XX. The origins After WWII, Breguet was one of several watchmakers, including Mathey-Tissot, Airain, Vixa, Auricoste, and Dodane, that supplied Type 20 chronographs to the French Air Force and Naval Air Force. While the actual Type 20 specification has been lost, the general consensus is that it called for a watch a prominent seconds track, a 38mm-ish case with a screw-in back and thickness of not more than 14mm, accuracy of within eight seconds a day, and most crucially, a flyback chronograph with a start-stop function that would work reliably at least 300 ti...

Introducing – The New Ressence TYPE 9 S75 to Celebrate Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75 Years Monochrome
Ressence TYPE 9 S75 Jun 16, 2025

Introducing – The New Ressence TYPE 9 S75 to Celebrate Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75 Years

Ressence’s partnership with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, UAE’s leading watch and jewellery retailer, has produced a series of limited editions over the years, each celebrating local heritage through innovative design. From the Type 1 DXB with its Arabesque-inspired grid motif to the Type 1 Slim DX2, and the Type 1 DX3 featuring traditional Girih geometric […]

Introducing: The Ressence Type 9 S75 - A Sand-Dial Limited Edition Celebrating Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary Fratello
Ressence Type 9 S75 - Jun 16, 2025

Introducing: The Ressence Type 9 S75 - A Sand-Dial Limited Edition Celebrating Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary

Benoît Mintiens of Ressence and Ahmed Seddiqi, a luxury watch and jewelry retailer in the United Arab Emirates (UAE), are back with another limited edition. This time, they used the fairly new Ressence Type 9 as their canvas and added a unique touch: the domed titanium dial is completely covered with sand. It’s not just […] Visit Introducing: The Ressence Type 9 S75 - A Sand-Dial Limited Edition Celebrating Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary to read the full article.

New: the Ressence Type 5X – Warm up the Gentleman Driver in you (specs and price) Deployant
Ressence Type 5X – Warm Oct 29, 2020

New: the Ressence Type 5X – Warm up the Gentleman Driver in you (specs and price)

Ressence partners with Eugenio Amos, founder of Automobili Amos to create a new bezel design for their Type 5 which relates to the Lancia Delta Futurista.  Ressence Type 5X Short Pitch about the watch. Second 10th anniversary piece in the Ressence collection X. Limited to 40 pieces. Motoring focused creation related to the passage ofRead More

MY WATCH STORY: Running into last year’s crush in Hall 1, Jared’s Breguet Type XXI 3817 Time+Tide
Breguet Type XXI 3817 There Mar 27, 2017

MY WATCH STORY: Running into last year’s crush in Hall 1, Jared’s Breguet Type XXI 3817

There are watches you see that have an immediate impact, but then the feeling fades. You see the same watch some years later and you can remember thinking it was amazing, but sometimes the desire to own it is gone. The opposite happened when I spotted Jared’s Breguet Type XXI 3817, which was released at Baselworld … ContinuedThe post MY WATCH STORY: Running into last year’s crush in Hall 1, Jared’s Breguet Type XXI 3817 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] Review: the Sublimely Sage Ressence Type 8S Worn & Wound
Ressence Type 8S There Aug 14, 2023

[VIDEO] Review: the Sublimely Sage Ressence Type 8S

There is a big difference between seeing a watch at a trade show, meetup, or boutique and living with one. In the former experiences, it’s very easy to be immediately taken with something. The energy of the environment, the thrill of trying on watches, perhaps a champagne or two, create a level of excitement that overlays everything you touch and see. As such, the watches we get to experience in these shows need to be taken out into the less flattering light of the real world to truly know if that excitement was genuine, or just a by-product of the situation in which they were introduced. One brand I’ve always been very taken with, especially when I’ve gotten to handle their wares at Watches and Wonders, is Ressence. For those unfamiliar with the Haute-independent brand, it was founded by Benoît Mintiens in 2010 with the goal of rethinking how a watch displays time. The solution found didn’t recreate the wheel, though it did heavily modify it. Utilizing a patented module design called the Ressence Orbital Convex System or ROCS, Mintiens, an industrial designer by trade, eliminated the use of classic hands. Instead, the whole dial becomes an active surface for telling the time with satellite sub-registers floating within a larger, always-in-motion, display. In 2022 they unveiled the Type 8, their simplest and lowest-priced model. The following year, they introduced it in a lovely, pale green and called it the Type 8S, for sage. Both years I left their booth a bit g...

A Closer Look at the Ressence Type 8S and Type 1 Round (w/ Video) Worn & Wound
Ressence Type 8S Apr 10, 2023

A Closer Look at the Ressence Type 8S and Type 1 Round (w/ Video)

It’s hard for a brand to stand out in the halls of Watches and Wonders. After all, the place is literally filled with some of the newest and finest horological creations. Yet Ressence manages to, even if they maintain a relatively low profile overall. Their booth isn’t elaborate, nor is there loud music or flashy lights to draw you in. Instead, their evenly lit room invites you in with a seat at a bar that doesn’t serve drinks, but rather a unique vision of watchmaking. And, naturally, it’s the watches themselves that make the booth stand out. While certainly in the realm of the high-end, their watches aren’t ornate or fussy. They aren’t traditional. There are no tourbillons or minute repeaters to ooh and awe at, nor gold or platinum to catch your eye with a glint. Instead, they are a reprieve from such things. Their watches look like precision technology from a future utopian world. And, well, that’s half true. Meeting with Ressence is a combination of seeing novelties and talking about manufacturing. A color change and how that affects tolerances. Years of R&D; to make already incredibly fine gaps between the moving components even finer. The word “micron” gets used with some frequency. They are a brand about precision technology, cleverly executed for a seemingly effortless result. This year, the focus was on two novelties: the Type 8S, and the Type 1 Round. The former was a new version of last year’s big announcement presented in a soothing sage gree...