Deployant
The 500 hours test: Why Montblanc Watchmaking Tries Harder
The individual testing methods applied and the duration of the Montblanc 500 hours test period make this examination truly special in the watchmaking world.
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Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 16th March, 2017
Schedules are printed. Bags are packed. Passports located. We. Are. Ready. For. Baselworld. Next time we Wind Down, it’ll be over a frosty Feldschlössen (our Basel beer of choice) and there’ll be pretzel crumbs all over the place. What happened Horological marketing departments are a fairly conservative bunch on the whole, because luxury watches are, apparently, a … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 16th March, 2017 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Dispatches From A Faraway Land - The Piaget Altiplano Scrimshaw Engraving Watch
The art of scrimshaw is surrounded by layer upon layer of romance, tradition and controversy. Originating on whaling ships, where whalebone and marine ivory (mostly from walrus tusks) was plentiful, scrimshaw involves engraving on bone or ivory, with pigment applied to bring out the design. One of the great classics of American literature, Herman Melville’s […]
Deployant
Review: Moser the Endeavour Concept Watch
With the Endeavor Concept watch, Moser strips naked a dial with a clear aim, to return to the essentials of function. A watch with a dial stripped of its logo, branding and indices has only one purpose; to tell the time.
Revolution
Telling Time Differently
Lausanne’s Museum of Design and Applied Arts (MUDAC) takes a fresh look at time and design with a selection of timekeepers that defy the conventions of timekeeping. When it comes to watch exhibitions we are rather spoiled here in Switzerland. There is the annual Baselworld Fair and the Grand Prix de la Haute Horlogerie Exhibition, […]
Video
In Conversation with Michiel Holthinrichs on 3D Printed Watches
Revolution
The Evolution of the Minute Repeater
Despite the hyperbole that sometimes accompanies news from the watch world, the truth is this: the hairspring and balance got together in 1660, Mudge made his first lever-escapement watch in 1755, and, with respect to repeaters, Barlow and Quare (both Englishmen) applied for patents for repeating watches in the late 17th century. Breguet developed the […]
Deployant
Affordable watches: Eberhard Traversetolo Vitre
Continuing on the series on affordable watches. This watch was a minor sensation at www.timezone some years ago (um…13-14 years ago…) and achieved a cult status there. I have owned this piece for almost that long…quite a nice watch, Unitas movement, decently finished. Beautiful dial, with raised printed Arabic numerals with quite strong superluminova. IRead More
SJX Watches
Tudor’s F1 Season Begins with Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26”
Continuing with a practice that began last year, Tudor has announced a limited edition as this year’s Formula 1 season kicks off. As with last year’s edition, the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26” is modelled on the livery of the racing car of Visa Cash App Racing Bulls (VCARB). It’s otherwise identical to last year’s model, which means it is lightweight, well priced, and equipped with the high-spec MT5813 movement. Initial thoughts The Carbon 26 is essentially last year’s watch with a new dial, but I like the new yellow and white livery than last year’s white and blue. The colours are subjective, but the value proposition of the watch remains objectively excellent (though the price has risen largely due to the strength of the Swiss franc). The Carbon 26 is still competitively priced next to its rivals. As an aside, I hope Tudor will eventually incorporate more design elements from its historical motor racing chronographs, like the Monte Carlo, into its modern-day F1 editions like the Carbon 26. The Carbon 26 is clearly a Black Bay – the “snowflake” hands are a giveaway – but the Black Bay is a dive watch rather than one for the road. Carbon inside and out The Carbon 26 gets its name from the carbon fibre composite case and bezel, which have a patterned surface typical of the material. The type of composite employed here is more subtle appearance-wise compared to other composites used in watchmaking, so at a distance the case appears a flat black. Thoug...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 26”
What We Know Ahead of this weekend's Miami Grand Prix, Tudor has announced the Black Bay Chrono "Carbon 26," a follow-up to last year's Carbon 25. While Tudor's ties to motorsport date back to the late 1960s with the Tudor Watches Racing Team, its current partnership with the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls team began in 2024, and they have been quick to make the most of it, with two limited editions in two consecutive seasons. The Carbon 25 marked the first limited-edition release from that relationship, with the Carbon 26 continuing the same approach in 2026. At its core, the update centers on a revised color scheme reflecting the livery of the VCARB 03 car. The watch retains a 42mm carbon fiber case with a fixed tachymeter bezel, along with a titanium caseback, crown, and pushers with a black PVD finish. The dial remains "racing white," now with yellow accents and carbon fiber subdials. The carbon fiber case, introduced last year, carries over unchanged. It replaces the steel case used in standard Black Bay Chronographs, while keeping the same 42mm diameter, fixed tachymeter bezel, screw-down crown, chronograph pushers, and overall case profile. Inside is the Manufacture Chronograph Calibre MT5813, an automatic chronograph with a column wheel, vertical clutch, silicon balance spring, and a 70-hour power reserve. It is COSC-certified, and it also meets Tudor's more rigorous standards of -2/+4 seconds per day. The Black Bay Chrono "Carbon 26" is priced at $8,625, produced in a...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Carbon 26
In 2024, Tudor announced its partnership with Visa Cash App Racing Bulls Formula One Team, which first resulted in the Black Bay Ceramic Blue, and most importantly, the Black Bay Chrono Carbon 25, a powerful chronograph in a lightweight attire inspired by the distinct livery of the 2025 Visa Cash App Racing Bulls car. We […]
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Grand Seiko vs A. Lange & Söhne Dials | Watchfinder & Co.
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Our Favorite Under the Radar Releases
Part of the fun of Watches & Wonders (in fact, most of the fun of Watches & Wonders) is discovering things you didn’t expect to find, or that slip through the cracks and don’t get nearly the attention you think they should once you see them in person. Let’s face it: the event is dominated by a handful of huge brands that save their absolute best for the show. But for every Tudor, Cartier, and Rolex, there’s a Chronoswiss, Behrens, and Hautlence releasing incredibly impressive watches we simply don’t talk about enough. Here, Zach Kazan and Zach Weiss recap some of their favorite watches at this year’s Watches & Wonders that slipped under the radar for one reason or another. If there’s a release you saw or read about from the show that you think isn’t getting its fair shake, let us know in the comments, we’d love to hear about it. Zach Weiss Hautlence Kubera Hautlence isn’t a brand that does half-measures. Their watches are all in, featuring wild complications executed in intricate fashion, housed in massive, equally exotic cases. I take a meeting with them at Watches + Wonders every year because, while maybe not a brand that is quite in our wheelhouse, I personally find them fun and inspiring. Plus, the brand has a very self-aware attitude that’s refreshing. Well, this year was different because, for the first time ever, Hautlence launched a watch that, while thoroughly strange and unconventional, was also wearable, and priced, for Hautlence, in a ...
Deployant
Live from WWG26: Panerai new releases
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Our next session is with Panerai, and WWG26, here is our hands-on impressions of the highlights. The booth had a large tank filled with water, called the Vasca Panerai, and was used by the Italian Navy for testing the watches. This year, they explored three themes, viz Historic, Innovative materials and power reserve. Back to [...] The post Live from WWG26: Panerai new releases appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Chanel J12 Bleu 38mm and 33mm, in Matte Blue Ceramic
Twenty-six years ago, Chanel introduced the J12, a luxury sports watch crafted from sleek, black high-tech ceramic. Designed by artistic director Jacques Helleu, the collection was named after the J-class 12-metre racing yachts competing in the America’s Cup. An overnight success, the J12 appealed to men and women alike with its chic, unisex aesthetic. Chanel’s […]
Monochrome
First Look – The Piaget Polo 79 Returns in White Gold with a Blue Sodalite Dial
Yves Piaget, fourth-generation member of the Piaget family, joined the company in the 1960s and cultivated the brand into a visible and global luxury player. Pushing the brand’s historical ultra-thin mechanical calibres 9P and 12P, and its ultra-slim quartz 7P movement into jewellery terrain, a new generation of fashionable jewellery watches with bright-coloured hardstone dials […]
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko Introduces the SBGY043 “Iwao Blue”
At Watches & Wonders 2026, Grand Seiko’s newest addition to the Elegance Collection brings together the things it does best. Namely, intricately textured dials with a nod to Japanese artistry, and its flagship Caliber 9R Spring Drive. Engraved to resemble a weathered rock face, the SBGY043’s striking dial suggests the appearance of a mountain at dusk: Grand Seiko calls this pattern iwao, which translates to rock or crag. Depending on the angle it’s viewed from behind its domed sapphire crystal, different facets take on intermingling light and dark tones of blue, purple, and black. Its color is inspired by the tradition of katsuiro dyeing, a centuries-old technique and reportedly a favorite among the samurai class, which produces a deep indigo hue. Set against bright silver markers and hands - no blued seconds hand here, which is almost its own Grand Seiko tradition - it makes for an especially understated contrast. This Iwao Blue version runs on the Caliber 9R31, a manual-wind Spring Drive movement with a 72-hour power reserve and visible through a clear caseback. The case is among the slimmest in the Elegance Collection, with standard zaratsu polishing and soft, rounded lugs. A nine-row stainless steel bracelet is the only option, which reflects the craggy-faced dial’s aura of ruggedness. Grand Seiko enthusiasts, of which there are many, might remember this dial from 2021 - albeit in a sharp-angled Heritage case and with a Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive mov...
![Tudor Black Bay GMT Vs Black Bay 58 [IN DEPTH COMPARISON]](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ngiQPRPQyHA/hqdefault.jpg)
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Tudor Black Bay GMT Vs Black Bay 58 [IN DEPTH COMPARISON]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 100th Anniversary Edition Reference 134303
Rolex might have always been discreet, but it was and still is one of the leaders of innovation in watchmaking. Surely, some of these features were not meant to make headlines or to break records, but under their relative discretion and incremental evolution, many have changed the face of the industry and how we interact […]
Worn & Wound
Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 Returns to the Waterfront
If there’s a more beautiful place to spend a weekend surrounded by watches, we haven’t found it. Windup Watch Fair San Francisco returns… and yes, it’s still the one with all the views. We’re talking sweeping sightlines of the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz sitting quietly in the distance, salt air rolling through Fort Mason and, if last year was any indication, the very real possibility of whales breaching right off the pier while you’re mid-conversation about your next watch. Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Friday, May 1 – Sunday, May 3, 2026 Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture San Francisco, CA Free and open to everyone. No registration necessary. Inside Gateway Pavilion, you’ll find our Lead Sponsor brands who you know and love: Bremont, Brew, Christopher Ward, Frederique Constant, and Oris. We are so grateful for their ongoing support of Windup and the whole enthusiast community. Each Lead Sponsor will be sharing and debuting watches that are well worth seeing in person. Alongside their new releases, go hands-on with over 80 brands’ products from around the world and experience their craftsmanship firsthand. Here’s a list of just some of the other amazing brands attending this year’s Windup Watch Fair San Francisco: This year, the EDC Expo returns, presented by GiantMouse. Everyone at GiantMouse have been staunch supporters of the Windup Watch Fairs for years and we’re honored that they’ve stepped up this year to really cha...
Monochrome
The ABCs of Time – The Five Most Complicated Wristwatches Ever Made
When I think of an affordable complicated watch, something like the Longines Master Collection Chrono Moonphase comes to mind with a full calendar, chronograph, moon phase and 24-hour time (as a day/night indicator). That’s amateur level, however, when it comes to grand complications and the five most complicated watches on this list of this ABCs […]
WatchAdvice
Revisiting The First Ever In Person Review Of Rolex Land-Dweller
We take a look back at our world’s first Rolex Land-Dweller review. We road tested it for a week out in the wild to see what the fuss was about. What We Love The movement innovation in the new Calibre 7135 The look and finish of the Flat Jubilee is stunning Comfort on the wrist is hard to fault What We Don’t Lack of microadjustment on the bracelet due to the clasp design Accessibility to buy will be a challenge Style cues may not be to everyone’s taste Overall Rating: 9.125/10 Value For Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 10/10 This article was originally published as World’s First Rolex Land-Dweller Review In The Wild! A week out from Watches & Wonders 2025, there were several Rolex leaks for the upcoming releases. One of these was the Land-Dweller. We had seen teasers obviously on Rolex’s social media, but then someone leaked the images, and this got the watch world buzzing. Unfortunately, these images would never have done the new Rolex models any justice whatsoever, thanks to their poor quality. However, it gave us enough to see what the new models were, and for me, piqued my curiosity as to what they would look like in person. The one thing I’ve learned with the Rolex is, and this is coming from someone who owns several pieces and actually loves the brand, you can never judge a book by its cover with them. And this year was certainly no different – the turquoise dial Daytona is actually quite stunning in the metal and on the wr...
Monochrome
First Look – The Maen x Nico Leonard Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin
Stockholm-based, Dutch-rooted microbrand Maen is now a rather familiar face, being known for compelling and accessible watches such as the Skymaster Chronograph or the Manhattan series. Last year, however, the young brand made quite some noise by collaborating with Nico Leonard, a fellow Dutch watch YouTuber, widely known for his outspoken style. The result was a fresh, […]
Video
£1,000 Baltic GMT vs £3,000 Tudor GMT | Watchfinder & Co.
SJX Watches
Ferdinand Berthoud, Inverted: The Chronomètre FB 2TV.1
Ferdinand Berthoud (FB), Chopard’s haut de gamme sub-brand, introduces its first flying tourbillon just weeks before Watches & Wonders. The Mesure du Temps 1787 Chronomètre FB 2TV.1 is exceptional in both quality and price, presenting almost everything of interest on the dial side - chain and fusee included - along with hacking and zero-reset seconds. The dial-side spectacle will be the calling card of the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. Initial thoughts The revival of long-dead masters’ names to sell unrelated watches is a practice that invites scepticism - and often deserves it. The Ferdinand Berthoud brand, however, is a different matter. There is nothing cynical about it, and one suspects the man himself wouldn’t mind being associated with some of the finest mechanical watches being made today - in his home town, no less. A different name on the dial, Scheufele perhaps, might still feel more authentic, but that’s a minor quibble with what is otherwise an overwhelmingly high quality watch. The latest take on the brand’s chronometer-inspired formula adds one of my favourite features: a zero-reset seconds hand. Though I prefer the designs of the brand’s past projects, the FB 2TV.1 suggests the team at FB understands what the market wants, and the movement-as-a-dial aesthetic is hot right now. The flying tourbillon is new for the brand, in both technique and aesthetics. Until now the brand’s massive revolving regulators were secreted away on the...
SJX Watches
Stéphane Pierre’s Inaugural L’Impétrant is Bi-Retrograde
A new independent voice emerges with the L’Impétrant, the debut watch from Stéphane Pierre, combining a bi-retrograde time display with an architecturally distinctive movement. Put together by an all-star roster of specialists, the L’Impétrant is a fresh take on a familiar format. Initial thoughts The central question with any debuting independent is whether ambition matches execution. Stéphane Pierre’s L’Impétrant is quirky and eccentric - and just as importantly seems well made thanks to the efforts of some 20 contributing specialists across fields such as movement construction, machining, electroplating, stamping and finishing. Given the evergreen popularity of the high-end, time-only format, it may well find its audience. The L’Impétrant’s visual staple is a set of enormous 19 mm retrograde hands - one for the minutes and the other for the hours. The bi-retrograde complication is no longer uncommon, but The L’Impétrant’s overlapping arrangement of the hands, and the luxurious construction of the mechanism, is unusual, helping it stand out within this niche. The mastermind behind the L’Impétrant has had an unusual career. Stéphane Pierre originally trained as a mechanical engineer and, intriguingly, has spent time working for both the Swatch Group and in the military sector. The L’Impétrant is essentially a very high-end time-only watch, and as such it enters a crowded market. However, rather than just developing a basic time-only watch...
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Names Béatrice Goasglas CEO
After the unexpected departure of its last leader at the start of the year, TAG Heuer has announced Béatrice Goasglas will take over as chief executive officer starting May 1, 2026. Currently president of the brand’s Americas division, Ms Goasglas’ background lies in digital marketing and client experience. She joined TAG Heuer in 2018 as vice-president of Digital & Client Experience, before rising to head the Asia-Pacific market. Notably, she worked with Frederic Arnault on Connected smartwatch during her stint at TAG Heuer headquarters, at the time one of the brand’s most important projects. Mr Arnault rose to chief executive of TAG Heuer, then moved on to head the LVMH Watch Division. He is now leading “quiet luxury” label Loro Piana, although Mr Arnault is known to retain an eye on the watch brand he once led. Prior to that, she held digital marketing and client-relations roles in fashion and cosmetics. While this background e-commerce and client relationships is an unusual background for the chief of a mainstream watch brand, it is perhaps useful and fitting for the luxury watch industry in the 21st century, and also revealing as to where TAG Heuer wants to go.
Monochrome
Introducing – A Celestial Dial for the Glashütte Original Serenade Luna “Skyline Blue”
Glashütte Original released its Serenade Luna in 2024, featuring moon phase indications. Unlike the Panomatic Luna, which is essentially a scaled-down adaptation of the men’s PanomaticLunar with its off-centred dial and Panorama date window, the Serenade Luna was conceived from the start as a women’s watch with a petite 32.5mm diameter, a sprinkling of diamonds and […]
SJX Watches
Craft at Scale: Audemars Piguet’s Industrial Strategy
Audemars Piguet (AP) is a storied name in haute horlogerie, and has long been the public face of the Vallée de Joux, the cradle of high complications in Switzerland. It’s also the only brand in the so-called ‘holy trinity’ to employ a Chief Industrial Officer (CIO). We sat down with Lucas Raggi to understand his role in shaping AP’s industrial strategy. The historical home of Audemars Piguet. Image – Audemars Piguet The context Having closed the chapter on the brand’s first 150 years, AP is flying high. According to Vontobel estimates, the brand generated more than CHF2.4 billion in 2025, making it the third-largest brand by revenue after mass market masters Rolex and Cartier. The brand is estimated to have produced more than 50,000 watches in 2025, up from 30,000 just a few years ago. The ribbon-cutting ceremony at the opening of AP’s new Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus. Image – Audemars Piguet The new Arc Manufacture, which just came online, might raise the ceiling further. In a 2022 interview then-chief executive François-Henry Bennahmias suggested AP would be capable of making up to 65,000 watches annually by 2027. These numbers represent extraordinary growth for a century-old family owned brand that makes complicated watches. So how does a brand like AP (nearly) double its output in less than a generation without sacrificing small-scale craftsmanship? In short, thoughtful industrialisation. The recently opened Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus. Image – A...
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