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Revolution
Zodiac adds two new models to their Skin collection, and another two new models to the Compression collection. Both collections are inspired by the legendary 1953 Zodiac diver’s watches and offered in a compact size with upgraded movement.
Hodinkee
Independent watch retailer Collective Horology LLC filed legal action against President Donald Trump, U.S. Trade Representative Jamieson Greer, and a host of other government officials and departments, alleging the administration's new tariff duties are "unlawful," lack congressional approval, and harm American business. The Ventura, California company, in a lawsuit filed in the United States Court of International Trade on July 24, alleges Trump and his deputies, in imposing tariffs of 10% and 12.5% on goods imported into the U.S. under Section 301 of the Trade Act, exceeded the President's authority to unilaterally levy such measures. The lawsuit represents the most aggressive response yet by the watch industry that has been financially kneecapped by the levies that have exacerbated an economically challenging environment that includes a strong Swiss franc against the U.S. dollar and record precious metals prices, a key input in luxury watchmaking. Many of the most high-profile watch brands raised prices in response, while retailers have taken a hit on margins. Collective Horology co-founder and CEO Asher Rapkin. Photo courtesy Collective Horology. Founded in 2018, Collective sells independent watch brands including Armin Strom, Czapek, Fears, U.S.-based J.N. Shapiro and Ming, among others. The company has paid more than $160,000 in tariff duties under various schemes imposed by the Trump White House and U.S. Trade Representative Greer, says co-founder and Chief Exe...
Monochrome
Christiaan van der Klaauw (founded in 1974 in the Netherlands) has dedicated itself almost exclusively to astronomical complications, creating wristwatches that display celestial phenomena with remarkable mechanical ingenuity. From planetariums to highly accurate moon phases, the brand turns astronomy into wearable mechanical art. Following the introduction of its new in-house CKM-01 calibre in 2024, this […]
Monochrome
While we are growing accustomed to watch brands popping up in every corner of the globe, it’s not often you run into a brand from New Zealand. Founded by Auckland native Robert Kwok, Beaufort’s mission statement is to provide exciting vintage designs at affordable prices. Earlier this year, the brand released the Beaufort Pulsatimer, an […]
Monochrome
In 2019, Ulysse Nardin introduced the Freak X, an entry-level to the innovative and convention-breaking Freak series, maintaining the brand’s “no-dial, no-hands” design, showcasing its signature flying carousel construction within the newly developed UN 230 movement. Though simpler than the original Freak and featuring a crown, the Freak X retained the DNA of its iconic […]
Worn & Wound
Xeric is a watch brand with a cult following based on a reputation for creating some of the most ingenious and affordable statement watches in the microbrand world. Their pieces are often conversation starters, featuring unusual time telling displays and lots of color. If you’re familiar with some of their avant-garde designs, it’s perhaps not a surprise that they have an entire sub-collection of NASA branded watches. It just kind of makes sense that watches with a decidedly futuristic, sci-fi inspired look would connect to the space agency. Their latest NASA piece, however, is almost subdued in comparison to prior efforts, and if you’re interested in jumping into Xeric but not ready for a watch with complex satellite time telling mechanism, the new Artemis Chrono might be your speed. The Artemis Chrono is named for the NASA program that will bring human beings to the lunar surface for the first time since the Apollo missions over 50 years ago. Returning to the moon is an important space travel milestone so it’s no surprise that Xeric would celebrate it with a limited edition release. The basis for the design, according to Xeric, is an updated take on the tachymeter equipped chronograph, which of course is exactly the type of watch that has become famous as the space watch over the last five decades. For the new Artemis Chrono, the bezel has become a focal point and is highlighted with bold colors and has been glass coated to aid in legibility and make the whol...
Worn & Wound
Our friends at Huckberry have partnered with Zodiac for their second collaborative limited edition, an homage to the original version of the Sea Wolf from 1953 with subtle bronze accents. This year marks the 70th anniversary of the iconic Zodiac skin diver platform, and the easy to wear dive watch arguably makes more sense today than it ever has. A skin diver, by definition, is a little lighter, smaller, and more casual than a full throated “pro” dive watch, while still being more than robust enough for day to day wear, including any number of water based activities. And as Zodiac has proven over and over again, their simple and straightforward design is a fantastic blank canvas for collaborators, with the Sea Wolf easily taking on any number of personalities and characteristics as colors shift and change. The new limited edition made with Huckberry is suitably vintage inspired, with the bronze adding an additional layer of refinement. The new Super Sea Wolf Bronze is a bit of a fakeout in that it’s not a full bronze watch, but keeps the bronze content limited to the rotating dive bezel and crown. This is a smart choice, giving the watch a subtle two-tone appearance and dressing it up just a tad from its tool watch roots. Bronze, of course, is known to patina quite heavily and in a very particular way, so we’d expect the bezel to take on a weathered look as this is used. According to Huckberry, the application of bronze here was inspired by early diving helmets, ...
Worn & Wound
With just two collaborative pieces in the past two years, Rowing Blazers has made some serious noise in the watch space. Their taste for playful colors and bold patterns combined with their use of various fabric textures across different styles not limited to streetwear, “prep,” and athletic-inspired apparel are displayed front and center in both of their Seiko collaborations. With author, designer, and Rowing Blazers founder Jack Carlson at the helm, and the horological experience of Eric Wind, it was only going to be a matter of time until the brand expanded their sights onto new horizons, and new watch brands to collaborate with. The new Rowing Blazers x Zodiac Harry’s Bar Super Sea Wolf is the latest to come from the American apparel brand and features an ongoing collaboration with their favorite watering-hole. One look at the Rowing Blazers catalog will tell you that the brand is not shy going heavy on the bright colors. And you know who else isn’t shy about using color? Zodiac. Naturally this collaborative piece uses a vibrant sunburst green dial reminiscent of a mix of green liqueurs. An appropriate color choice considering this collaboration includes Harry’s Bar, the oldest cocktail bar in Europe. This establishment has served libations to the likes of Ernest Hemingway, Daft Punk, and even makes a cameo in Ian Fleming’s James Bond novel “From a View to Kill.” With so much history that has taken place behind those doors, one would wonder what it woul...
Deployant
We announced the contest last week, and the call for entries is open till end of May. Here is just a quick reminder to send your entries in. Prizes added!
Revolution
Old styles and new colours ensure Breitling’s latest stand out.
Hodinkee
What's old is new again. Again.
Hodinkee
You can trust real vintage lovers to dig deep to get a reissue right.
Hodinkee
Whether you're wondering the time in your favorite '80s hotspots or looking for a watch worth more than $50 at a pawn shop, this is the perfect watch for you.
Hodinkee
Super Sea Wolf Ceramic Summer – the alliterative subhead writes itself.
Hodinkee
Zach Weiss opens his Trapper Keeper of inspiration.
Worn & Wound
It will be impossible to talk about the new Trafford Crossroads S without discussing the size of the case in great detail, which I fear might be disservice to the watch as a whole, because there are a lot of very nice things about the Crossroads, and it’s one of the most charming new watches from a microbrand that I’ve seen in some time. But the case size is critical, because Trafford has walked a very interesting line with this release, debuting the Crossroads S in two sizes and marketing each based on how they feel the case wears, not its actual measured size. It’s getting by on vibes, as the kids sometimes say. It also capitalizes smartly on the growing trend we’ve seen for smaller, more discreet watches in a really interesting way. The Crossroads S is actually two watches: the Crossroads S 36 and the Crossroads S 40. Neither of these watches are named for their actual measurements, though. Instead, Trafford has used these pretty commonly understood sizing conventions to name the watches based on how, in their estimation, they actually wear. The Crossroads S 40 measures 35mm x 36mm, while the Crossroads S 36 comes in at 31mm by 32mm (both are 9mm thick). Looking at the watches side by side, and compared to other watches in circular cases that are true 40mm and 36mm cases is an interesting lesson in how we perceive size depending on shape. It also, in my opinion, illustrates how one of these watches is absolutely the “correct” size while another is, well, n...
Monochrome
As a brand that takes great pride in the pursuit of Schönstes Deutsches Handwerk, translated as “the most beautiful German craftsmanship,” Moritz Grossmann is home to exquisite handcrafted dials. Giving old-school decorative techniques a contemporary twist, Grossmann proposes two new versions of its practical traveller’s GMT watch with hand-guilloché dials in lush summer colours. Moritz […]
Deployant
The MTG-B3000CXD exemplifies the perfect blend of structural innovation and aesthetic brilliance, a hallmark of the MT-G watch series. This special model pays homage to the beginning of 2024 with a design that alludes to the mythical dragon zodiac.
Deployant
Girard-Perregaux updates their (its 10 years old, but still innovative) ground breaking Constant Escapement movement in a new Neo guise.
Quill & Pad
Watching the news for spiking virus cases, with Geneva rapidly becoming Switzerland’s new hotspot, and deciding by the minute whether we would attend, three of our team members took the plunge and traveled to Geneva to experience the new watches first-hand. Here are our thoughts on the busy, “socially distanced” Geneva Watch Days, including our favorites, the watch we disliked the most, and what we would buy!
Deployant
New Lang & Heyne introduces an extension to the Georg, now with a galvanic black dial on silver. Available in rose gold and platinum. Numbered but not limited. Prices are the same prices, plat € 29,050 and in RG € 38,800 without tax. On the news side, Marco Lang is leaving the company. But technically,Read More
Hodinkee
"If you build it, they will come." It's the age-old quote about watchmaking, wrapped somewhat curiously in a sentimental movie about baseball, if I'm interpreting things right. A. Lange & Söhne is finally having its overdue moment among collectors for doing what it's always done: making beautiful, mechanically impressive watches with a more traditional, high-touch approach. Sticking with the baseball analogy, it's the Milwaukee Brewers playing old-school small ball and getting into the World Series. Nostalgia hits hard, and the one constant through all the years, Ray, has been watchmaking—or something like that. And yet, when you get down to it, something has been missing from the Lange lineup—a gap for true deep-cut collectors who begged for a certain something that disappeared from the catalog in the late 2000s. People yearned for bracelets, with the word Wellendorff hanging in the air long after the brand ended its partnership with the Pforzheim jewelry maker. When the Lange-loving Hodinkee team saw the new Datograph Perpetual on bracelet, in all its heavy glory, it was an impressive culmination of past and present. "It reminds of us of all that once was good and it could be again." “Wellendorff” Bracelets and the Secondary Market I was recently reminded that my first experience with an A. Lange & Söhne was one on a Wellendorff bracelet. I was attending a local RedBar meet-up when a noted collector of the brand walked up wearing a Datograph Perpetual in platin...
SJX Watches
A Cartier Cheich selling for US$3.38 million has put quartz in the spotlight, but does the huge result mean much for the broader market? On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, we discuss the appeal of unusual Cartier shapes and why Patek Philippe’s new Gondolo “Ladies First” makes a practical case for quartz at the high end. Brandon also shares impressions from a visit to Manufacture La Joux-Perret, where solar quartz calibres account for a quarter of annual movement production. Despite the Citizen-owned manufacture’s Japanese technical foundations, these calibres are almost entirely Swiss-made, with more hands-on assembly than one might expect. We also discuss A. Lange & Söhne’s upcoming Singapore exhibition, dedicated to chronographs and classic cars. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Worn & Wound
Think about where we are in watchmaking in 2026. You could argue, pretty reasonably I think, that the problem of chronometry has basically been solved. We have access to mechanical watches that are accurate to seconds per month, and quartz watches that are accurate to seconds per year. There are advancements around the edges (Grand Seiko’s new U.F.A. movement comes to mind, the most accurate watch powered by a mainspring, accurate to 20 seconds per year), but it’s hard to imagine an advancement in timekeeping at this point that would actually be meaningful in our daily lives. For movement geeks, sure, shaving off seconds here and there will always be a fun new development, but for many we’ve reached a point of diminishing returns, where all that really matters are bragging rights by the brands (and those matter a lot – big marketing campaigns are built around them). So where do the advancements come from in the years ahead? Many people with a lot more experience in this industry than me have discussed materials science as the next big step for watch brands, and we’ve certainly seen a lot of alternative materials used in cases and movements over the last few years. Once you go beyond the traditional steel, titanium, and precious metals that watch cases are normally made from, you open yourself up to manufacturing and creative options that are typically encountered across other industries, like the aerospace sector and medical manufacturing. The UK based brand ...
Fratello
Panerai combines a high-tech carbon-composite case with familiar vintage-inspired details in the new Luminor Marina PAM01707. The watch uses the brand’s proprietary Carbotech material for its 44mm cushion case. Paired with an automatic movement and 300m water resistance, it remains every bit the capable tool watch expected from the Luminor Marina family. What makes this […] Visit An Ideal Blend Of Old And New: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01707 In Carbotech to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Hot on the heels of the opening of Porsche Design's new watch manufacture in Grenchen, Switzerland, Hodinkee and Watches of Switzerland (the exclusive authorized watch retailer of Porsche Design in the U.S.), hosted an evening with the brand here in New York City. The night served as a perfect window for local collectors to explore Porsche Design's approach to watchmaking, including the latest watches and an impressive selection of heritage timepieces from the brand. After some time spent mingling and socializing along a bay of new and vintage Porsche 911s parked on Greene Street, attention turned to the conversation between Hodinkee Editor TanTan Wang and Porsche Design Brand Ambassador (and actor) Orlando Bloom. In a wide-ranging discussion, TanTan and Orlando discussed the history of Porsche Design watches, highlights from their shared visit to the brand's newly opened Swiss Manufacture, and speculation about what's to come from the iconic design house. Housed at the base of the Jura Mountains, in the former home of Eterna Watches, the new headquarters of Porsche Design Timepieces represents a clear example of "The Porsche Way" of watchmaking. Since Professor Ferdinand Alexander Porsche expanded his design philosophy from cars into the large Porsche Design lifestyle brand in the 1970s, the new factory allows the brand to further its extraordinary level of technological innovation and intelligent design. A watchmaker from the newly opened Swiss Manufacture showcased the ...
Hodinkee
A weekend in the Berkshires with Chopard’s sleek new sport watch, the Alpine Eagle.
Fratello
Furlan Marri has built its reputation by offering faithful mid-century design with exceptional detail. The price remains approachable for most watch enthusiasts. If not handled carefully, this could seem like a cheap trick. However, when vintage details are applied with care and the materials nod gracefully to modernity, the result can be a true knockout. […] Visit Furlan Marri Introduces The New Meteorite - A Cosmic Twist On An Old Favorite to read the full article.
Hodinkee
The head of the storied Swiss dive watch brand prioritizes affordability even as much of the industry goes premium. Plus, Tim Jeffreys drops by to talk about Grand Seiko's new brand ambassador, Shohei Ohtani.
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