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Patina vs Fauxtina

Authentic vintage aging vs deliberate factory aging on modern Tudor Black Bay, Omega 1957 Trilogy, Longines Heritage.
Glashütte Original Reveals New "Frosted" Dials for Senator Excellence Teddy Baldassarre
Glashutte Original Mar 20, 2025

Glashütte Original Reveals New "Frosted" Dials for Senator Excellence

German luxury watchmaker Glashütte Original has been on a streak of masterful moon-phase creations in recent years, releasing some absolutely exquisite dial colors in its PanoMaticLunar model (including the green-dial model I review here) and unveiling the first PanoLunarInverse model toward the end of 2024. Today, the brand continues shooting for the moon, in a visual and horological sense, with the launch of two new versions of its Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase family boasting two eye-catching - and historically inspired - new dial colors. Both of the watches’ dials - one in frosted silver, the other in frosted copper, achieved in a galvanic process - are created in homage to the rich mineral deposits once mined in the Ore Mountains, near the state of Saxony and the watchmaking town of Glashütte. Their finely grained surfaces, meant to evoke the thin layers of ice on the mountain rock, play host to the familiar and elegant details of the Senator Excellence family - including hand-applied, blued Roman numeral markers in gold and blued, polished poire hands complemented by a central seconds hand with the brand’s “double G” symbol as counterweight. The watches’ signature functions occupy carefully chosen spots on the dial without disrupting its overall clean, harmonious look. The large “Panorama” date display settles snugly in a double window at 4 o’clock, while the moon-phase elegantly balances it in the opposite corner above, its ...

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Talking About The Substance: Ceramic Is The New Gold Fratello
Mar 13, 2025

Talking About The Substance: Ceramic Is The New Gold

Did you know humans have been making ceramics for at least 26,000 years? They’ve done so by subjecting clay and silica to intense heat to fuse and form ceramic materials. Mind you, traditionally, these were not dishes, as you might expect. Rather, they were small, sculpted figures. Only in the 1970s did ceramic enter the […] Visit Talking About The Substance: Ceramic Is The New Gold to read the full article.

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Konstantin Chaykin Returns with Slavic Bread-Creature Wristmon SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Mar 7, 2025

Konstantin Chaykin Returns with Slavic Bread-Creature Wristmon

Drawn from a Russian fairy tale about a bun coming to life, the Kolobok 2 arrives a year after Konstantin Chaykin revealed the original Kolobok. Like its predecessors in the Wristmon collection, this features a dial inspired by the titular character’s face. But the Kolobok 2 marks a departure from the first version in two notable ways: it is now a regular production watch rather than a limited edition, and it features a La Joux-Perret base movement instead of an ETA. Initial thoughts The Kolobok 2 is the latest of many Wristmon models, arguably too many to date. However, the fact that this is a regular production model, as opposed to a limited edition, is a positive development since it indicates the brand is leaving behind the multiple-edition approach. That aside, the watch itself is an upgrade over earlier versions. Although the new Kolobok 2 has the same simple functions arranged as a face, it is powered by a new movement based on the La Joux-Perret G200, replacing the modified ETA 2892-A2 used in preceding entry-level Wristmon models. This calibre is a step forward for the Wristmon model. Amongst other things that put it ahead of the ETA 2892, the G200 sports a a full balance bridge with a free-sprung balance. Another wristmon The Kolobok 2 retains the same dimensions and technical specifications as its predecessors, measuring 40 mm in diameter and 12.2 mm in thickness. As with all Wristmons, it features a notched bezel with 12 screws and a case that’s predominan...

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Anoma Debuts the A1 Slate Worn & Wound
Mar 6, 2025

Anoma Debuts the A1 Slate

In a monochrome, modernist twist on the recently released A1 First Series, London upstart brand Anoma-short for Anomaly- has announced its followup, the appropriately named A1 Slate. Sharing the same smooth triangular shape with rounded angles and an offset face, the A1 Slate was similarly inspired by a free-form table designed  by Charlotte Perriand in the 1950s, and Constantin  Brâncuși’s modernist sculptures. The new gray, black, and white color scheme, however, promises a more subtle take on the shape that aligns more with the third inspiration-river stones, smoothed over time by passing water.  The 316L stainless steel triangular case is likely the first detail on the A1, whether the First Series or the Slate, that an observer will notice. Measuring in at 30mm x 38mm (though Anoma notes that the shape and lack of lugs make the fit closer to 37mm), the case is mirror-polished, and meant to refract and bend light at every angle. Without having the watch on hand, I can’t vouch for this effect, but Worn & Wound’s own Zach Weiss reviewed the A1 First Series back in January 2024 and attested to the charm of the watch’s styling and finish. The vertically-brushed dial itself stands out against the case, with individually-engraved contrasting inner triangles coated with three layers of glossy black lacquer. Leaf hour and minute hands adorn the dial, with the Anoma logo below the centerpoint. A cleverly-situated cross with lines at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clo...

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The Cornell Watch Company Introduces Two New References, and Announces a Partnership with Hour Precision to Produce Watches in America at Scale Worn & Wound
Feb 27, 2025

The Cornell Watch Company Introduces Two New References, and Announces a Partnership with Hour Precision to Produce Watches in America at Scale

When John and Chrissy Warren relaunched the Cornell Watch Co. in 2023, it was something of an experiment. They wanted to revive luxury watch making in America … at scale. Now, with their launch year behind them, the Warrens have proven there is an appetite for high-end American watches, having sold and delivered their first 15 build slots for the beautifully crafted 1870 Classic Enamel. Now the Warrens are moving on to the next phase of their company: moving from producing small numbers of artisanal watches to producing hundreds of watches a year that compete in quality with Swiss brands. Part of the appeal of Cornell’s first watches in the relaunch, the 1870 Classic Enamel, was that the watch was put together by America’s leading watchmaker, Roland Murphy. Murphy’s reputation as an artisan who produces work of the highest quality made him an ideal partner for an American brand. His name leant credibility to the project and his years of experience running RGM Watch Co. meant the watches would be beautiful examples of craftsmanship. But relying on RGM Watches to assemble Cornell’s watches had a downside: the high-level hand-finishing they utilize means RGM doesn’t produce huge quantities of watches. And, of course, Cornell isn’t even the center of RGM’s business, meaning the 15 Cornell 1870 CEs produced by RGM in 2024 - 16 if you include a piece unique that was auctioned off - represent roughly what could be expected from the partnership year-over-year: ...

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Introducing – Indie Brand Havid Nagan Releases its New and Elegant Classic One Monochrome
Feb 26, 2025

Introducing – Indie Brand Havid Nagan Releases its New and Elegant Classic One

Havid Nagan (from the Armenian word havidenagan, meaning eternal) is a relatively new name in the independent watchmaking scene and the brainchild of California-based entrepreneur Aren Bazerkanian. The brand started with the inaugural HN00 series, a cushion-shaped titanium watch with guilloché-like dials powered by Schwartz-Etienne micro-rotor movements. Then came the HN01 Lucine Moon Phase. Things […]

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Introducing – A New, Stylish Blue and Golden Dial For the MeisterSinger Pangaea Day Date Monochrome
MeisterSinger Feb 26, 2025

Introducing – A New, Stylish Blue and Golden Dial For the MeisterSinger Pangaea Day Date

Inspired by the very first mechanical tower and table clocks that had not yet discovered the minutes hand, MeisterSinger’s disarmingly simple premise is to deliver the time with a single hand. However, a single hand is not necessarily equated with simple watches, and the brand’s repertoire includes complications like its chiming Bel Hora and moon phase […]

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The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy (1780-1854) – A Champion of British Craftsmanship Worn & Wound
Feb 25, 2025

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy (1780-1854) – A Champion of British Craftsmanship

Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy was the last of the great Vulliamy family of Royal clockmakers and five-times Master of the Clockmakers’ Company. He was Royal Clockmaker to King George IV, King William IV and Queen Victoria and the driving force behind the formation of the Clockmakers Library and Collection – now Clockmakers’ Museum – from 1814 onwards. The Public Face of Clockmaking The Vulliamy family was known for producing high-quality timepieces, often regarded as some of the finest in Britain during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy was the last of four generations of Royal clockmakers based at 68 Pall Mall, London from 1753. Early in life he joined his father Benjamin in the family business, which by then was best known for its ornamental clocks and metal furnishings. Upon his father’s death in 1811, Benjamin Lewis inherited control of the business. Following the end of the Napoleonic wars he began to shift its output towards emerging new markets, particularly those brought about by the development and expansion of institutions like the new Houses of Parliament, government departments and London’s clubland. In all his products he aimed for high quality, reliability and accuracy. He created clocks for public buildings and important institutions. Some of his works are still present in places like the Horse Guards Parade and the Royal Exchange in London. This magnificent and imposing clock No. 1394 (below) was purchased for use in ...

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Christopher Ward Responds to Customer Feedback and Adds a 38mm Version of The Twelve to the Permanent Collection Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Responds Feb 20, 2025

Christopher Ward Responds to Customer Feedback and Adds a 38mm Version of The Twelve to the Permanent Collection

“Through constant emails, face-to-face requests at events, and in the comments of our social posts, it has been impossible to ignore the requests for this ‘Goldilocks’ case size. We are a brand that listens to our customers––you asked and we delivered.”  –Christopher Ward’s CEO and Co-Founder Mike France It’s always refreshing when the feedback of the watch community is recognized by at least one company or representative within the watchmaking industry. To hear Mike France and Christopher Ward directly address their customer’s concerns is exactly what makes the microbrand/indie sphere so great. Whether you believe they’ve expanded beyond their microbrand status to “legacy micro,” “independent,” or some other higher level of categorization, the brand’s acknowledgement of customer input speaks volumes about their character and ability to take and utilize constructive criticism––perhaps a result of their humble beginnings as a true microbrand. After the critical acclaim the 36mm and 40mm Twelve models received, Christopher Ward is set to release a fresh take on their popular design with the new Twelve 38. The stainless-steel case, which made its limited edition debut last year in the “Ice Cream” collection, measures 38mm across, 43.3mm lug-to-lug, and 9.95mm thick, thanks to its ultra-slim Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 movement. With 26 jewels, a smooth 4Hz beat rate, and a 38-hour power reserve, these reliable and durable automatic move...

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Some Of The Best Colorful Watch Dials Worn & Wound
Casio ns when nothing else Feb 12, 2025

Some Of The Best Colorful Watch Dials

Many of us are guilty of it: in an entire collection, every last dial will be monochrome. White here, black there, and a dash of silver or grey mixed in. If one is particularly daring, there may even be a dark blue dial added in. But versatility isn’t everything - sometimes, a bright, in-your-face dial is the perfect antidote to a grey day. Watch dials have historically been places of decoration. Painted enamel dials were popular in the nineteenth century, with such vivid imagery as landscapes, battles, and hunting scenes adorning them. Though neglected through the early twentieth century, the colorful dial - now in more vibrant bursts of color - saw a vivid return in the mid-twentieth century when companies were scrambling to produce new timekeepers for the burgeoning underwater sport of SCUBA diving. A colorful dial can signal the change in seasons. For many, a bright dial immediately conjures images of sunny vacations, warm water, and worn paperbacks, while a muted dial can be the perfect companion during bleak midwinters, perfectly accenting the changed environment. A well-chosen dial can also inject color into both your collection and wardrobe, providing the right accent piece and adding the missing link in an otherwise perfect outfit. In this week’s Chronicle, we’re looking at some of our favorite colorful dials for those occasions when nothing else will do. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. I...

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Piaget’s Polo Combines the Flying Tourbillon and Moonphase SJX Watches
Piaget s Polo Combines Feb 11, 2025

Piaget’s Polo Combines the Flying Tourbillon and Moonphase

Piaget is dialling up the complexity of its popular sorts watch with the Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase. Housed in a 44 mm, cushion-shaped titanium case, the new Polo features a partially open-worked dial that reveals the flying tourbillon - with cage topped by a stylised “P” - alongside a moon-phase indicator at six o’clock. Interestingly, the ultra-thin cal. 642P inside is a form movement in a tonneau shape. Initial thoughts The Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase adds an interesting pair of complications to the Polo, but without impacting the simplicity or symmetry of the dial. It’s a high-end alternative to the more affordable Polo models, like the Skeleton Ceramic, but it is also the largest Polo at 44 mm in diameter. This will affect wearability, making it versatile than the smaller-format Polo models. That said, because the movement is ultra-thin, the large case has an elegant, thin profile. As an aside, an open back would have been a welcome addition, since it would provide a view of the tonneau-shaped movement. Tourbillon This 44 mm cushion-shaped titanium case is finished with alternating mirror polishing and satin-brushing, complemented by blue-coated inserts on the case flanks. Water-resistant to 100 m, it frames a partially open-worked dial that’s finished with horizontal fluting as is standard for the Polo. Visible from both the front and back, the flying tourbillon is framed by a blue seconds ring on the dial, allowing the cage to double up as ...

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In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph CFT Carbon SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Feb 7, 2025

In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph CFT Carbon

On its face, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Date in CFT carbon is familiar. The aesthetic is the oversized, stylised, and modern look that defines the Royal Oak Concept (ROC), with aggressive pusher guards and a complex, open-worked dial. And this latest version has the added feature of a carbon composite case produced via Chroma Forged Technology (CFT) that adds both colour and luminosity to the material. But the ROC Split-Seconds is more than just another Royal Oak chronograph because of the cal. 4407 inside. Launched in the 2023 titanium model, the is a latest-generation in-house movement and a notably innovative rattrapante calibre. The ingenuity of the movement lies in the fact that is both a traditional, integrated split-seconds chronograph and self-winding – a feat achieved with an elegant and patented automatic mechanism. Initial thoughts The very first Royal Oak Concept in Alacrite of 2002 was an enormous, heavy watch. Since then, the design of the ROC has been refined to become more wearable, and more lightweight thanks to new materials. The ROC Split-Seconds is perhaps the most wearable to date. Even though it’s a big watch, it doesn’t actually feel that large; the curved, tonneau-like form clings to the wrist well. The look is typical ROC – technical, aggressive, and modern. While I like the look, it is a little over the top. The style is now; I am not sure how it will age. Visuals aside, the ROC Split-Seconds is int...

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Introducing: The Urwerk UR-100V “Hunter Green” - Not All Green, Not All Gray, But Definitely An Urwerk Fratello
Urwerk UR-100V “Hunter Green” - Jan 29, 2025

Introducing: The Urwerk UR-100V “Hunter Green” - Not All Green, Not All Gray, But Definitely An Urwerk

Urwerk is confused. The brand doesn’t know if its new watch has a green or gray face, and a compromise entered the name. The Urwerk UR-100V “Hunter Green” is sober green with hints of cool gray. Hunter green - Hex code #2c5f34 - is a lush, cool-toned green color between blue and green. If you […] Visit Introducing: The Urwerk UR-100V “Hunter Green” - Not All Green, Not All Gray, But Definitely An Urwerk to read the full article.

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First Look – The new Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Auto Chrono in Sporty Black Monochrome
Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Auto Chrono Jan 23, 2025

First Look – The new Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Auto Chrono in Sporty Black

Hamilton´s Performer is a relatively new series in the Jazzmaster collection, which comprises sporty, contemporary, and versatile watches, including seven 42mm Auto Chrono models. Classic in their appearance and with an undeniable wrist presence, these chronographs now face stiff competition from within, thanks to the arrival of the sleek, black-clad Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Auto Chrono. […]

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Louis Vuitton Surprises with Tambour Convergence SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Surprises Jan 21, 2025

Louis Vuitton Surprises with Tambour Convergence

Louis Vuitton starts 2025 with a surprise, the Tambour Convergence. Modelled on traditional “digital” pocket watches, the Convergence indicates the time with discs visible in a pair of small windows at the top of the face. The unusual design, coupled with the compact, 37 mm case gives the Convergence an elegant, vintage-inspired aesthetic atypical of Louis Vuitton. Equally notable is the newly-developed in-house calibre inside, the LFT MA01.01. The movement is of a family of movements that will underpin Louis Vuitton’s timepieces going forward; variants of the movement are also found in the new Tambour Taiko Spin Time. Initial thoughts The Convergence is unexpected because it isn’t typical of Louis Vuitton. The vintage-inspired styling and proportions are almost antithesis of the brand’s conventional look, which was historically colourful and modern. Even though such territory is relatively new to Louis Vuitton, the Convergence is executed well. The design has intrinsic appeal, and shows off good proportions and details. The Convergence demonstrates the refined style of the redesigned Tambour case, which barely resembles the chunky original that was often thick and paired with narrow lugs. While I myself liked the quirk look of the original Tambour, the revamped model is undoubtedly more elegant and consequently will have a wider appeal. The Convergence debuts in pink gold The Convergence does well in almost all respects – fit, finish, design, and dimensions ...

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First Look – The Beautifully Refreshed Aesthetics of the Chopard L.U.C Lunar One Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C Lunar One Jan 20, 2025

First Look – The Beautifully Refreshed Aesthetics of the Chopard L.U.C Lunar One

The L.U.C Lunar One was Chopard’s first calendar and astronomy complication. Unveiled in 2005, the model combines a perpetual calendar and a precision orbital moon phase display in a rotating aperture. Twenty years later, Chopard revisits its L.U.C Lunar One with a more compact basin-style case, a trimmer, more legible dial decorated with hand-guilloché in […]

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Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Jan 15, 2025

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite

Diversity is arguably a strength – and a weakness – of the Speedmaster – and Omega is proving this with the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite. In contrast to the recent military-inspired Speedy, the latest model goes for exotic materials:  the dial is made of lunar meteorite finished in either grey or black, while the moon phase sports twin moons similarly fashioned from meteorite. The moon phase display is a double moon that depicts the age of the moon in both the northern and southern hemispheres. Completing the celestial scene, the stars on the moon phase disc replicate the night sky when Apollo 11 landed on the Moon in 1969, as observed from Omega’s headquarters in Biel. Initial thoughts Maybe the new Speedmaster is an ironic reference to the “Moonwatch” nickname. In fact, it doubles the Moon reference with Moon meteorite fragments and the moon phase. But does the Speedmaster need to be dressed up with a moon phase and meteorite? Intrinsically, the new model has a few things going for it. The in-house movement inside is one of Omega’s top-of-the-line chronograph calibres. And it also has a scaled-down case that improves wearability. Now 43 mm, the watch has a more compact form than its chunky 44.25 mm predecessor. Despite the in-house movement and liberal use of meteorite, the Speedmaster Moonphase still feels pricey with a retail of US$17,100. That said, most recent Speedmaster models are expensive – this costs only US$1,500 more than the Speedmaster C...

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A Look at the new IWC Pilot Mark XX Mercedes-AMG Petronas Team Two Broke Watch Snobs
IWC Pilot Mark XX Mercedes-AMG Jan 9, 2025

A Look at the new IWC Pilot Mark XX Mercedes-AMG Petronas Team

Let’s face it: when you think of Formula One, your first thought probably isn’t, “Gee, I hope IWC drops a new Mark XX today.” But here we are, and IWC is back in the F1 game for 2025 with yet another AMG Petronas tie-in. This time, we’re looking at a no-nonsense titanium Mark XX, a clean time-and-date piece decked out in enough Petronas green to make your Speedmaster a little jealous.

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The Least Expensive Panerai Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Panerai Jan 8, 2025

The Least Expensive Panerai Watches

Panerai might be the most in-your-face example of the quintessential Tool Watch That Made Good as a Luxury Item. Unlike many other contenders for that title, a Panerai watch today looks essentially the same as it did back in the 1940s, when Italian navy frogmen wore them into underwater combat. Few concessions have been made to modern tastes and trends: the luminous material on the dials is no longer radioactive (inarguably a positive change), Rolex no longer makes the cases, and you no longer have to be a naval commando to own one, but otherwise the relatively few models that make up the Panerai family have stubbornly adhered to their military-issue origins. It is this adherence that makes Panerai, for many, an all-or-nothing proposition — either you’re in the brand’s worldwide, rabid coterie of fans and collectors, proudly self-dubbed the Paneristi, or you roll your eyes at the notion of ever owning one: they’re too big, too flashy, too clunky, too Stallone.  This article, the latest in our series of Price of Admission guides, is aimed at those aspiring to join the former group — in other words, those wishing to pull the trigger on their first Panerai but possibly intimidated by the breadth of choices — and, of course, by the ticket price for entry to that first tier of Paneristi-land. Without further ado, let’s find the most affordable Panerai watches in each of the current product families. RADIOMIR The Radiomir, first conceived in 1935 but tracing its m...

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Editorial: Reflections on Peter Speake’s Return SJX Watches
Jan 7, 2025

Editorial: Reflections on Peter Speake’s Return

I was happy to see Peter Speake return with PS Horology and the Tsuba. Peter was one of the first independent watchmakers I got to know well on a personal basis, and I have followed his career for almost two decades now. I first met Peter sometime in 2005, either at Baselworld (it was my first time there) or in Singapore during his regular round-the-world tours. He was then a fresh face in independent watchmaking, having just founded his brand Speake-Marin in 2002. In the context of the period, when independent watchmaking was a truly niche segment, Peter was a star (although he is modest enough he might disagree). Founded by Peter and Daniela Marin, who were then married, Speake-Marin was a promising brand with many of the ingredients for success, including a strong aesthetic (thick, chunky, and ETA-based but I liked it), good watchmaking and quality thanks to Peter’s own skill, and of course Peter himself – the personality is as important as the product in independent watchmaking. The unique Majestic Monkey of 2008, one of the first custom Speake-Marin watches I saw in person Peter was not the only watchmaker I met around that time, but I got to know him better than most other indie watchmakers, as a result of an annual watch fair that took place in Kuala Lumpur, the Malaysian capital. Known as A Journey Through Time (AJTT), the watch fair was staged by YTL Corporation, a Malaysian conglomerate with diversified interests ranging from power generation to luxury shoppi...

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Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Lex’s Picks From Omega, Echo/Neutra, and Tudor Fratello
Tudor Lists - don’t you Dec 19, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Lex’s Picks From Omega, Echo/Neutra, and Tudor

Lists - don’t you just love ‘em? Well, I don’t. I don’t want to sound like the Grinch, but the avalanche of end-of-the-year lists - whether about music, movies, or sports moments - that comes during the holiday season doesn’t exactly give me a warm and fuzzy feeling of remembrance. I prefer to look ahead. […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Lex’s Picks From Omega, Echo/Neutra, and Tudor to read the full article.

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