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Handwound Watch Owners… This Is For You!
Are you the owner of a perpetual calendar from Patek Philippe or the H. Moser & Cie Perpetual 1? If you are, you’ll know that such watches are designed to not require adjustment until the year 2100. The highly complex movement is able to distinguish the number of days within a month and whether it […]
Revolution
Watch Cases! – Perfect Storage for Watch Collectors.
Collecting watches is one thing, but storing them safely is something else. It actually does’nt matter if it’s a collection of three four watches or a dozen, we’re taking about, there comes a moment that they need a better place than the drawer of a nightstand, or in a cardboard box when travelling. Nowadays there […]
Revolution
Max Bill by Junghans; Watch Design Brought Back to its Essence
Junghans is a brand that most people know from their clocks and radio-controlled watches. In both categories the brand has made quite a name for itself, often combining innovative design with the latest technical developments. But what Junghans decisively gave a place in watchmaking history is its collaboration with architect/designer Max Bill. As an apprentice […]
Deployant
GTE 2013: Heritage Watch Manufactory’s Tensus
Taking place at the same time, in the same city as the SIHH is the Geneva Time Exhibition…GTE…a collection of sometimes interesting group of watchmakers, often smaller manufactures and independents who take advantage of the big SIHH show to draw crowds who are already in Geneva. Starting 1 day earlier, on a Sunday, when mostRead More
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Iconic 3 Watch Collection Under $10k in 2023
Revolution
Shine On, You Crazy Diamond: Piaget Sets New Record With The Altiplano Gem-Set Skeleton Watch
Piaget’s justly famed for both its ultra-thin movements and for its extremely high level of gem-setting mastery (handled, unusually in an industry that out-sources a great deal of its sertissage to third party contractors, in-house) and this year, they showed a dazzling combination of both. Feast your eyes, brief mortals, on the Piaget Altiplano Gem Set Skeleton […]
Revolution
The Watch for Action Heroes: Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic
We don’t think about magnetic fields often and though they are thoroughly pervasive in our high technology environments, we tend to think of magnets as these little buttons of fun used to “hover and drag” metal cars across table tops. It’s time we grow out of childish notions and understand that magnetic fields are generated […]
Deployant
Gronefeld One Hertz, the brothers and another watch
The Gronefeld brothers in Holland are one of the secrets of high end horology. Independents, they were both trained in the stables of Renaud et Papi. And have been making their own watches, as well as contracting for others from their little workshop in The Netherlands. I had the opportunity to meet them several timesRead More
Deployant
Watchscapes: Dufour Duality – the ultimate one watch to rule them all
The Philippe Dufour Duality...ultimate in discreteness, and totally unassuming in character, but what a gorgeous, and ultra-complicated movement within.
SJX Watches
Auction: Christie’s Auction to Benefit Medical Charity ELA
Christie’s has just announced Watches for ELA, a thematic auction of 11 watches, mostly one-of-a-kind, to benefit the European Leukodystrophy Association (ELA), which supports research into the disorder. The brands that have created watches for the sale include Bovet, Konstantin Chaykin, Girard-Perregaux, Swatch, and most crucially from a value perspective, Richard Mille. While Christie’s is best known for staging Only Watch, a biennial charity auction, the ELA auction is notable for being the brainchild of François-Henri Pinault, the chief executive of French luxury conglomerate Kering, which owns brands like Gucci and Balenciaga. Mr Pinault is on the board of ELA, while Christie’s is owned privately by the Pinault family. Each timepiece in the ELA auction is offered without reserve, with all proceeds going to ELA. The sale takes place on November 11, 2024 as part of Christie’s customary Rare Watches auction. The catalogue and online bidding will be available at end October. Richard Mille RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph Dark Yellow Quartz TPT The flagship offering in the sale, and the only watch with a six figure estimate, the RM 65-01 is one of the most complicated Richard Mille watches, the RM 65-01 is powered by a high-frequency, self-winding rattrapante chronograph movement made by Vaucher. This example is part of a 120-piece limited edition that’s the latest iteration of the RM 65-01. It sports yellow Quartz TPT carbon composite case and is th...
Video
The new G-Shock Mudman GW-9500 is a no-fuss tool watch
SJX Watches
Daniel Roth’s Latest is Extra Plat-inum
Daniel Roth’s latest addition to its time-only portfolio is the Extra Plat Platinum. A familiar face in a new colourway, the Extra Plat offers the Tourbillon Platinum‘s stealthy look in a more accessible two-hand format. Powered by the DR002 in-house calibre developed by Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), this regular production model brings a decidedly subtle look to the brand’s simple dress watch. Initial thoughts It’s been interesting to observe Louis Vuitton’s confident foray into haute horlogerie through the revival of Daniel Roth. Despite the corporate structure, astute collectors continue to speak of Daniel Roth in the same breath as other leading independent watchmakers. To the independent-collecting cognoscenti, the platinum Extra Plat should prove a compelling option – rooted in the early history of the independent watchmaking movement but built to meet contemporary expectations. Following Daniel Roth’s launch of the Tourbillon Souscription, the time-only, manually wound Extra Plat — “extra flat” for non-French speakers — debuted in an 18k yellow gold souscription edition followed closely by regular production models in rose gold, with and without skeletonisation. The new platinum Extra Plat rounds out the set. Combined with the matching dial with contrasting finishes, it creates a rather stealthy profile for this otherwise opulently finished dress watch. Extra Plat-inum The platinum double-ellipse case shares the wrist-friendly d...
Fratello
What Is Your “Palate Cleanser” Wristwatch Following Watches And Wonders?
From a watch with a full-ceramic bracelet from Tudor and a space watch from IWC to a timepiece by H. Moser & Cie. that requires the literal pushing of a button (pump) to power it, this year’s Watches and Wonders did not disappoint. In the frenzy of new watches and watch brands flexing their engineering, […] Visit What Is Your “Palate Cleanser” Wristwatch Following Watches And Wonders? to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton Ref. DBBD02A1
Daniel Roth introduces its latest offering during the LVMH Watch Week in Milan! It’s the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton. Though based on the previously introduced Extra Plat watches with caliber DR002, this one has a special skeletonized movement (DR002SR). Honoring Daniel Roth’s heritage It’s no secret that I admire the new Daniel Roth watches […] Visit Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton Ref. DBBD02A1 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Daniel Roth’s Revival Continues with the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton
The resurrected Daniel Roth is keeping up the pace with new launches. At LVMH Watch Week 2026, the brand has finally unveiled an all-new model, one that is not based on a historical watch: the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton. Though mechanically similar to last year’s Extra Plat, the skeleton version features a new movement boasting solid gold bridges that are hand finished, resulting in a movement that is visibly high quality in its execution. While the case is the familiar double-ellipse form that’s the Daniel Roth signature, the skeletonised movement is a new calibre with a modern style that gives this a fresh feel compared to the brand’s recent models that are firmly grounded in the 1990s Daniel Roth aesthetic. Initial thoughts The Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton is a good looking watch that’s instantly recognisable as a Daniel Roth, but importantly it will never be confused with a Daniel Roth watch from the 1990s like its siblings in the catalogue that are essentially remakes. This makes it the first genuinely new model in today’s Daniel Roth line-up. The Extra Plat Skeleton marks a new direction for today’s Daniel Roth, but ironically it calls to mind a skeleton model made by Daniel Roth when it was run by Bulgari. That’s not a bad thing; that particular Bulgari-Daniel Roth was one of the best watches produced by the brand during that period. Beyond its novelty, the watch is intrinsically appealing because it is clearly made to high standards. This is appar...
SJX Watches
Fabian Pellet Debuts with Artisanal L’Essentiel
Fabian Pellet emerged last year as one of the more interesting and unusual independents with the L’Essentiel. Where most new faces in the field are freshly-graduated watchmaking students, Mr Pellet was previously a watchmaking teacher. A Swiss native working in Tokyo since 2022, Mr Pellet is one independent watchmaker to watch. The new version of L’Essentiel looks virtually identical to the three-piece platinum limited run from 2024. This updated model is now housed in a titanium case, and even though the production is inherently limited, it extends beyond three pieces. Initial thoughts The watch itself appears unassuming at first: a simple time-only model with a white enamel dial and a case defined by fairly plain lines. But when taking a closer look at the finer details, especially when turning the piece over, this can’t be dismissed as just another time-only indie piece. The movement inside the watch is clearly meant to be the center of attention, thoughtfully hidden underneath the simple, pocket watch-like dial. The calibre was crafted fully by hand; Mr Pellet does not use CNC machines even for the cutting of the raw blanks for the mainplate and bridges. The movement is clearly heavily influenced by a historical watches, both visually and in terms of its construction, which adds to its flair. All of its qualities aside, L’Essentiel remains a time-only watch, which has become somewhat of a trope with both new and established independents. It seems like a new ...
Video
Watch Flipping - Important Rules to Buying and Selling Affordable & Luxury Watches
Fratello
What’s On My Wish List? - The Watches Dave Wants To Buy Next In 2025
Every year, I tell myself I’ll resist the urge to make another list. And yet, here we are again. A fresh calendar year always seems to bring with it a fresh batch of watch cravings - some new, some old, and some I’ve come close to buying before but never quite pulled the trigger on. […] Visit What’s On My Wish List? - The Watches Dave Wants To Buy Next In 2025 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Serica Introduces the 5303 PLD, a New Diver Made in Collaboration with the French Navy
Serica has unveiled the new 5303 PLD, a new dive watch the brand has developed in partnership with the French Navy. Specifically, the watch was developed with the EOD (Explosive Ordinance Disposal) team, which, I think most people will understand, is a fairly highly specialized and dangerous diving discipline. The watch follows the form and function of Serica’s popular 5303 diver, but with a few small tweaks that distinguish it from the standard version without calling out to its inspiration too overtly. The most notable and obvious change from the standard 5303 is the new bezel, which has a “DT Max” scale as opposed to the standard dive bezel that allows you to count minutes from a given start time. The DT Max bezel features twin scales (minutes and meters) that display the “maximum working time” at a given depth. This allows a diver, in theory, to ascend continuously without decompression stops, a necessity for EOD divers. The number at the outer scale (“profonduer,” or depth) relates directly to a number on the inner scale, the number of minutes a diver can safely work. Not super functional for anyone not on a dive, but it provides a very real reminder of the danger of the sport, and adds a certain charm to the piece. The bezel itself is rendered in a shade the brand refers to as “abyssal blue,” and it’s a very nice shade that further sets this diver apart from other watches in the Serica lineup. Serica has also tweaked the dial in small ways for...
Deployant
New with hands-on: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold
We previewed the new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold when we bumped into their International Watch Press Manager Daniel Roth and got a quick hands on.
Fratello
A Hands-On Introduction To The Daniel Roth Extra-Plat Souscription
Just about one year ago, Daniel Roth presented the finished Tourbillon Souscription watch in yellow gold. After announcing the return of the Daniel Roth brand in March 2023, the Tourbillon Souscription was the first project and a nod to the debut model (Tourbillon ref. C187) from Daniel Roth’s watch brand in 1989. Now, after releasing […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Daniel Roth Extra-Plat Souscription to read the full article.
Revolution
Carl F. Bucherer’s International Palette - Heritage BiCompax Annual Hometown Edition
Carl F. Bucherer’s flagship watch, the Heritage BiCompax Annual, is now available in a new palette of colors and international destination casebacks.
Video
The Watch Collection of a Former Professional Tennis Player Accutron, Citizen, Vacheron, Longines ++
Time+Tide
Have IWC pulled off a masterstroke with teenage ski sensation Eileen Gu?
Sudden injuries, nosedives in form, squalid punch-ups in pub car-parks that are snapped by the tabloid press… Suffice to say when a watch brand picks a sporting ambassador it’s a decision fraught with risk. When Hublot signed Novak Djokovic last August, for example, they were justified in their belief they were partnering with a “living … ContinuedThe post Have IWC pulled off a masterstroke with teenage ski sensation Eileen Gu? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Seiko is donating the proceeds of one Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition which you can buy here
For fans of the prolific Japanese animation studio Studio Ghibli, the name Porco Rosso will be familiar to you. He’s the ace biplane pilot who learned the art of flying in World War I, before being turned into a pig and then, turning his skills to fighting pirate crime. He has legions of fans around … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Seiko is donating the proceeds of one Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition which you can buy here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Felix the Cat Pilots Bremont’s Latest
Bremont’s Altitude MB Meteor Felix the Cat puts one of military aviation’s most mischievous mascots on the wrist in a 42 mm titanium pilot’s watch that turns the tradition of wartime nose art into a wearable 500-piece limited edition. Inspired by on the brand’s long-running Martin-Baker collaboration, the Felix edition pays tribute to the iconic cartoon mascot of the US Navy’s VFA-31 “Tomcatters” fighter squadron. Initial thoughts Bremont built its brand on military aviation-themed watches, and the Altitude MB Meteor proves it understands the cultural hallmarks of this niche better than most. The Felix edition taps into the enduring tradition of nose art - the cartoon characters, pin-ups, and mascots that have adorned military aircraft for over a century - drawing on one of the US Navy’s most recognisable icons. Creating visual coherence, the depiction of Felix is outlined in yellow, echoing the black-and-yellow stripes of the balance end of the seconds hand, which is meant to evoke an ejection seat grab handle. This has long been a Bremont motif, and is actually one of the brand’s strongest calling cards, dating back to the original 2007 collaboration with British ejection seat maker Martin-Baker (hence the ‘MB’ designation in the model name). The Altitude MB Meteor is the latest mission in this campaign, and retains the dual-crown architecture and textured case band of the original. That said, several details of the 42 mm case have been changed,...
SJX Watches
The Omega Speedmaster for Military Pilots is Now Available to Civilians
Originally conceived for pilots of the US military (and covered here by Fratello), the Omega Speedmaster Pilot is now available to civilians. The origins of the watch explain the military-influenced, instrument-style dial design, which is meant to evoke the utilitarian nature of an instrument panel inside a fighter jet. The regular production version of the watch retains the same specs as the military exclusive, but with different livery. The case has the straight lugs of the Speedmaster “Ed White” but in a larger format thanks to the automatic cal. 9900 inside. Initial thoughts I’m something of an outlier amongst enthusiasts since I prefer automatic to manual-wind, even within the Speedmaster collection. While a manual-wind movement is traditional for the Speedy, I appreciate the day-to-day convenience of an automatic. Additionally, Omega’s latest-generation automatic chronograph movements are all impressively high-spec. While the Speedmaster Pilot may not achieve the same aesthetic purity as its manual-wind counterparts, it remains an excellent everyday option, especially with the military provenance. That said, the military provenance is not exactly military-issue. The watch was designed for military pilots who presumably buy it on a personal basis for off-duty wear; it is not an actual mil-spec instrument watch. This can be seen in the dial design, which has aviation-inspired elements, rather than actual, functional indicators for pilots. Even though this is m...
Deployant
It takes two to tango: Six interesting watches which are born of collaborations between watch brands
We have seen many watch brands coming together to do collaborations. So, before the launch of the Royal Pop, we take a look at what is currently available.
Video