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Quill & Pad
Breguet appears to be struggling to live up to its reputation as one of the oldest and most iconic Swiss watch brands, but the brand hit the ball out of the park the Tradition collection. And this Seconde Rétrograde is yet another home run.
Hodinkee
Is the young independent brand's first round watch a hit?
Teddy Baldassarre
The origin of Blancpain x Swatch is the story of two vastly different watchmakers. One is the oldest watch brand in the world, in existence since 1735, and renowned for making some of the most high-end luxury timepieces in the industry, regularly carrying prices of thousands or even tens of thousands of dollars. The other traces its origins only to the 1980s and made its name by producing plastic-cased, mass-market fashion watches for youthful consumers at average prices around $300. Through a convoluted series of events arising from watch-industry upheavals in the late 1990s and early 2000s, the newbie department-store brand bought the historical prestige brand, making it part of a modern-day Murderers Row of legacy watchmakers within what is now known as the Swatch Group. Both brands continued to do what they did best, and never did their efforts really intersect. Blancpain has adhered to its philosophy of never, in its almost-300-year history, making a watch with a quartz movement. Swatch, by contrast, was the brand that brought quartz into the mainstream of Swiss watchmaking in the first place, and still uses quartz movements in most (but not all) of its voluminous output of watches. But the watchword (no pun intended) of the 21st Century timepiece industry seems increasingly to be, Never Say Never. The Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch (Obviously) Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch "Mission On Earth" In 2022 came a scenario that was somehow both unthinkable and inevitable at the same ...
Worn & Wound
If there’s one drum I’m constantly banging in the watch enthusiast discourse, it’s that the Swatch MoonSwatch is probably among the least interesting watches made by the brand. I know, I know. They are a phenomenon. They have probably introduced untold numbers of new collectors to our hobby. And they are meant to be fun and I should just chill out. This is all incredibly valid. But as a somewhat older, somewhat more grizzled watch collector who fondly remembers a pre-MoonSwatch era, I’m very much of the opinion that Swatch remains on the vanguard of creativity, you just have to walk past that MoonSwatch display briefcase in the boutique. This week saw the release of what I think is a great example of a watch that is more impressive in just about every way than a run of the mill MoonSwatch. The new SCUBAQUA Collection even uses the same Bioceramic material found in the MoonSwatch, but in a way that, to my eye, is more uniquely Swatch. Based on the classic Swatch Scuba collection, the new SCUBAQUA watches are a thoughtful update using new materials with enhanced specs and a more contemporary feel. The new SCUBAQUA watches are all about color and transparency, achieving what the brand calls the “jelly effect,” a principle common to many similarly transparent and colorful Swatches over the years. Each watch combines Bioceramic in the solid color sections of the case with castor oil derived biosourced materials for the transparent components. The dials in each v...
Monochrome
In the past two years, many things have changed at Bremont, one of the most important watch brands active on British soil. First, the founding brothers, Nick and Giles English, are not actively part of the company anymore. Second, there’s a new owner – American investor Bill Ackman – and a new CEO – industry […]
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Worn & Wound
These days, it seems like every watchmaker is getting back to their roots and releasing redesigns or homages to past hits. I won’t speculate on what this means for the world psyche at the moment, but it has certainly produced a few discussion worthy pieces, whether controversial, widely popular, and everywhere in between. Swiss dive watch specialist Squale is capitalizing on the nostalgia boom with the Corallo NOS 2008. While the Corallo isn’t a rehash of a specific model for the brand-originally founded in 1959 as a case maker for other brands and known for their extreme divers and tool watches-it is a callback to designs of that decade, both from Squale and the watch world as a whole, and revives their “Corallo” case style from the decade, as they rediscovered 300 new old stock (or NOS) examples of the case in their archives three years ago. The name means “coral” in Italian, supposedly chosen for the eight rounded humps that form the bezel of the watch, giving it a shape reminiscent of the aquatic life form. I can’t see the resemblance, but I do like the silhouette that the humps give the watch, imbuing it with a symmetry that feels aggressively tactical, and makes sense for extreme diving applications; a gloved hand underwater will have no problem gripping the bezel with the namesake protrusions. The Corallo measures in at 36.8mm in diameter, 10.5mm in thickness, and 44mm lug-to-lug, and the 316L stainless steel case itself is a blend of the original ...
Worn & Wound
In 2019, the last year of Baselworld, I remember roaming the hall of AHCI and visiting Stefan and Ev Kudoke to see their new Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 models. The Kudoke 2 was an instant winner for me with the small hand engraved 24-hour day/night disc. Later that year, the Kudoke 2 won the “Petite Aiguille” GPHG award for the best watch under CHF 10,000. This put Kudoke as a brand on every collector’s radar. My first impression of the Kudoke 5 is that it is a natural progression or a logical conclusion to the K2 model with the 24-hour day/night disc as the dial. While the small disc in the K2 works as a nice indicator, the full blown 24-hour dial with a large day/night sky is more poetic and truly feels like it naturally belongs as a dial. The other noticeable thing about the K5 is that it is a brand-new case that is much slimmer than the previous models. It is officially listed at 7mm without the domed crystal (it’s 38mm in diameter and 47mm from lug to lug). Even though the domed crystal on the watch presented in Geneva last month was a prototype, it did not appear to add any height to the watch. This is the slimmest Kudoke watch I have seen. According to Stefan, engraving the day/night disc is a complex process involving relief engraving. The stars, moon, and triangle remain in place during engraving and the rest of the elements must be lowered. The whole engraving process takes several days. The biggest challenge he faces is not denting the disc during this ...
Worn & Wound
We have officially reached that point in the integrated bracelet sports watch trend where the late entrants are getting their second generation, “improved” models to market. Case in point, Nivada-Grenchen and their F77. The F77 launched in March of 2023, a time period that most would agree saw the hype around this genre of watch begin to cool in a significant way. That doesn’t take anything away from the F77 as a watch, of course. I’m rather fond of the size and geometry of this one, and it’s a genuine part of Nivada’s heritage. But in terms of its timing, it did debut at “peak” integrated bracelet sports watch mania. And so here we are, two years later, and Nivada has launched a Mark II version of the F77. We’re now at a point, I think, where integrated bracelet sports watches are just part of the landscape, and a required offering for any brand wishing to cast even a somewhat wide net. It makes sense, then, that Nivada would work to improve theirs. From the looks of it, they’ve made some fairly substantial changes to the case that could have a real impact on how the F77 wears, and it certainly has an impact on the overall aesthetic of the watch. The case measures 12.2mm thick, which is not appreciably different from the previous version, but the lugs have been completely redesigned. The first F77 had lugs that were quite flat and, for an integrated bracelet sports watch, fairly long. The new F77 Mark II has lugs that are much more dramatically curve...
Monochrome
The Odysseus disembarked at A. Lange & Söhne in 2019, the Saxon brand’s interpretation of a luxury steel sports watch with a personality all its own. Not only was it the first steel model for the brand, but it was also the first model with 120m water-resistance, the first model with a metallic integrated bracelet, […]
![[VIDEO] The Tudor Goes Deep with Pelagos Ultra](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/04/TUDOR_PELAGOS_ULTRA_1.jpg)
Worn & Wound
Tudor’s most technical dive range receives its most technical entry yet. Over the last few years, we’ve seen the Pelagos expand quite dramatically, starting with the introduction of the FXD series, which has ranged from military-spec via the M.N. to carbon fiber chronographs, to a GMT, to standard varieties, as well as the smaller-wrist-compatible Pelagos 39. For 2025, however, we’re seeing a return or a close relative to the original Pelagos, with a 1000m variant called the Pelagos Ultra. At double the water resistance of the original, 1000m is undoubtedly the headline of the Ultra, but there are many subtle changes to the design that give this new watch its own personality. First, the case is a touch larger at 43mm in diameter (vs 42mm for the original), 52mm lug-to-lug (my measure), and 14.8mm thick. While these dimensions sound imposing, they were more tolerable than expected on the wrist, largely because of the lightweight grade 2 titanium construction. The spacing between the dial and the crystal was reduced to keep the case relatively thin, or at least not thicker than the original. As such, the rehaut was redesigned to be flat and a touch wider. While I am a bit remiss to see the steeply angled rehaut with cutouts of the original get cut, as I found it a particularly enjoyable design that added a contemporary and aggressive edge to the watch, the new version is less distracting and allows for more dial space. In turn, the applied hour markers and hands are la...
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Monochrome
Ben Kuffer, the CEO of Norqain, is lucky to have industry heavyweight Jean-Claude Biver on his advisory board. Thanks to Biver’s valuable input, Norqain introduced its high-performance Wild One sports watch collection in 2022. Featuring an innovative carbon fibre composite case with a rubber shock absorber padding the titanium movement container, the Wild One is […]
Deployant
Swatch celebrates Spring with their new Blossom Time, featuring light airy colours in stainless steel cases. Available in four colours.
Worn & Wound
Imagination is at the heart of any good spy story or thriller, and MKII seems to know that well; with their latest release, the Fulcrum 39, they’ve crafted a watch fit for a speculative undercover mission in the 1970s. A diver-style piece that favors practicality and class over more visually militarized counterparts, the Fulcrum 39 is designed to convey MKII’s “vision of the perfect tool watch”. The Fulcrum 39 is a revised and sized-down successor to MKII’s Fulcrum, originally released in 2013. Aptly named for its discreet 39.50mm case size, the Fulcrum 39 is a watch that could have been made for military and covert ops; MKII has crafted a sort of horological fiction with the watch’s design and heritage. While mainly inspired by timepieces issued to the United States Military in the Vietnam War era, the Fulcrum 39 also tags in elements of more civilian-oriented designs, hence the smaller case size and understated appearance. The idea of a watch with a grounded yet fictional background is unique and lends an air of hushed intrigue to the Fulcrum 39 that helps elevate it from just another dive watch to a very functional gear piece for a theoretical (or real) adventure. With all these stylistic features in mind, the Fulcrum 39 is unmistakably a tool watch. It totes a 120-click unidirectional bezel, available in either 12-hour or 60-minute diver configurations, maximizing its utility as a dive watch-particularly when paired with its 200m water resistance. The b...
Monochrome
It’s the time of year when businesses announce their financial performance. Following Richemont and LVMH, Swatch Group has just released its 2024 results. In a challenging environment for the watch industry, the sales of Swatch Group – the Swiss powerhouse and owner of Omega, Longines or Tissot – were CHF 6,735 million, down 12.2% at […]
Monochrome
Following a rather unmanageable success with the Moonswatch collaboration with Omega, Swatch did it again in 2023 with yet another brand from the group – this time Blancpain – and with another emblematic watch – the Fifty Fathoms. The result, an accessible Bioceramic watch inspired by Blancpain’s famous dive watch, came with an automatic movement […]
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Deployant
Vacheron Constantin released the Historique 222 in a stainless steel case. We handled and photographed the watch and here is our hands on review.
Time+Tide
It's only the second Fears watch in a silver case in a century, its uniqueness marked by a diamond in the crown.The post New silver-cased Fears Jump Hour Edwardian Edition to be sold exclusively at British Watchmakers’ Day in March appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
It’s certainly no surprise that our inboxes here at Worn & Wound continue to be inundated with new releases heralding the year of the snake. The first weeks of January are traditionally a slow period for new watch releases in every category except lunar new year novelties. It’s safe to say that if this type of thing is your primary interest in watch enthusiasm, we are in the midst of what is surely your Super Bowl. While a lot of the new lunar new year releases are extravagant, high end demonstrations of a brand’s craft, there are, thankfully, examples of watches in this vein that are far more approachable. That brings us to the Year of the Snake collection from Swatch, a pair of impressionistic snake themed designs for those who are looking to celebrate the new year on a budget. First up is the Golden Red Bamboo reference, a ultra slim 38mm quartz powered watch with a glimmering gold dial. The dial’s motif appears to be a somewhat abstract idea of a snake rather than a zoologically correct representation of a serpent, and I think it’s better off because of it. The orange accents on the hands and dial make for a nice contrast with the gold, which is extended to the case, crafted from stainless steel and given a PVD gold coating. The strap is described as “leather and textile” and has matching orange embroidery and gold accents. If something a little bigger is more your speed, Swatch has you covered with the Blue and Gold Lithe Dancer reference, part of th...
Worn & Wound
Maen Watches, based in Stockholm, Sweden, has been crafting unique timepieces since 2017. With over eight different collections, they have developed a cohesive design language that is instantly recognizable as a Maen watch. Maen entered the integrated bracelet sports watch market about two years ago, although perhaps a tad late. Conversely, they appeared to embrace the resurgence of square(ish) watches early, offering a design that I personally prefer over a more recent controversial cubical release. Although I don’t have any hands-on experience with their watches yet, I have closely followed their development from the beginning and am pretty impressed with their attention to detail and the use of polished facets. This is particularly noteworthy considering their price point. Following the success of their Manhattan 37 Automatic and the Manhattan 39 Ultra-Thin Manual Wind, Maen will launch a new line, the Manhattan 40, with a larger case and automatic caliber. Two standard models will be available: one in midnight blue and another in copper/salmon. Both will feature vertically elongated Côtes de Genève dials. Additionally, a special-edition model will feature a dial made of green jade stone. Jade is a valued gemstone with a craft history of about 7,000 years, renowned for its toughness and beauty. In China, it rivaled gold and diamonds. The Mayans, Aztecs, and Māori also cherished jade. Ancient Egyptians linked it to love and balance. Today, jade symbolizes goodness...
Deployant
Stanley was in Taipei earlier this month and have caught up with Joe @biaoist Taiwan’s most influential watch influencer and Chapter Head of Redbar Taiwan.
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Hodinkee
For the tasting menu, you can choose Élégante, Souverain, or Astronomic. For the wine, you've got options. But for the watch, you're definitely going to want to choose the "red."
Time+Tide
Tudor drops an unexpected GMT, Ulysse Nardin goes freaky traditional, and Ralph Lauren makes a watch fit for a fancy cowboy.The post New releases from Tudor, Swatch, Franck Muller and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Lightweight and with a high-revving engine, the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF is the watch embodiment of a rapid sports car.The post Chopard makes a case for high-beat sports watches with the titanium, 8Hz Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
History is a double edged sword for a budget conscious collector like me. The nerdy half of me loves to get caught up in the horological space race of 1969 and participate in the 1953 drama of debating if Smiths or Rolex wore it best on top of Everest. But while my romantic side finds joy in history, the frugal collector in me has some reservations. This side of me knows that the watch industry is in constant flux as it adapts to new technologies, reacts to wars and navigates economic shifts. It’s the side of me that acknowledges brands brimming with pedigree did not weather this history unchanged, and can’t help but notice the value from those shiny new microbrands with seemingly no history to offer. What is a collector to do when they have a romantic enthusiast on one shoulder telling them the story behind a watch matters and a frugal cynic on the other asking if a plastic chronograph is really worth a premium because its metal counterpart went to the moon? Personally, rambling blog-style until coming to some sort of conclusion aimed at making sense of an often nonsensical hobby has never steered me wrong. Provenance vs Pedigree: A Collector’s Dilemma Historical watch conversations often focus on provenance, which can most simply be defined as the story behind a specific watch. Provenance is what separates Paul Newman’s Daytona from every other “Paul Newman” Daytona. It’s what makes Buzz Aldrin’s out-of-this world, misplaced Speedmaster worthy of obsessio...
Worn & Wound
Farer has long been on my radar as a watch brand to trust not only for exceptional quality, but a distinct design language imbued into every new reference the British brand puts out. Take, for instance, the four new references from their latest Cushion Case collection. Already a favorite (or should I say favourite) of Farer fans, the cushion case is at once totally classic and modern. Because of this chameleon-like quailty, Farer has played with the coloring and design of each watch to make four distinct “personalities” to the series. Let’s explore each model here. The new lineup features four distinct models, each offering a different style while maintaining the signature cushion case silhouette that has become a hallmark of Farer’s design ethos. First up is the Benham, which stands out with its bold cherry red dial, accented by horizontal grooves and a playful baby blue seconds hand on the sub-dial. The brushed bezel adds a sporty touch, complementing the watch’s contemporary look. Inspired by Gertrude Benham, an English explorer and mountaineer, this watch embodies adventure and boldness without veering too much into ostentation. On the other hand, the Mansfield Midnight offers a more refined and sophisticated aesthetic. Its deep inky blue dial is highlighted by polished rose gold batons and numerals, further complemented by its rose gold dauphine hands, for a classic look. This watch balances metallic tones with polished rose gold accents, making it a sligh...
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