Revolution
Introducing Panerai’s Bronzo Blue Abisso and Luminor Marina eSteel
For 2021, Panerai powers ahead with an update on its iconic Bronzo and the launch of its Luminor Marina eSteel watches made using recycled steel
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Revolution
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces the Pasha de Cartier Chronograph
Inspired by the tale of a water resistant sports watch commissioned in 1934 by Thami El Glaoui, the Pasha of Marrakesh – which was actually a rectangular watch – the modern Pasha was penned by Gerald Genta, the man behind many of the most iconic watches of the 1970s and 1980s, which were often considered avant-garde for their time. One year after the relaunch of the time-only model, the jeweller is debuting the Pasha de Cartier Chronograph at Watches & Wonders 2021. The new chronograph on the wrist Initial Thoughts The Pasha Chronograph is an appealing watch. It does wear slightly large at 41 mm and but is surprisingly svelte at just under 12 mm in thickness. Add to that 100 m of water resistance and a moderate price premium of US$3,500 or so over the time-only model and you realise that the Pasha Chronograph is a compelling package. Granted, the “Vendome” lugs are not to everyone’s tastes, but the Pasha remains as classically Cartier as the jeweller’s form watches. The “Vendome” lugs and chain-secured crown cap are Pasha design hallmarks The movement is finished modestly and industrially, a sharp contrast to the dial finishing, which punches above its price point in terms of its detail. Nonetheless, its price of a bit under US$10,000 in steel makes the Pasha chronograph competitive, and also good value. Fine details The Pasha Chronograph measures 41 mm in diameter and 11.97 mm in thickness – it retains the same diameter as the time-only model and gains a...
Revolution
A Half-Century as an Icon: The Rolex Explorer II 50th Anniversary
Rolex celebrates one of its most historically significant lines, the mighty Explorer, as its flagship launch of 2021. Both the Explorer and Explorer 2 have been revisited this year and fans of the venerable tool watches won’t be disappointed.
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces the Tank Must de Cartier Monochrome Colours
Capitalising on the enduring popularity of the Tank, Cartier has (re)launched the Tank Must de Cartier at Watches & Wonders 2021. The new Tank Must line includes several entry-level watches in steel, including an unusual solar-powered model, and also a trio of watches with monochrome, solid colour dials in red, green and blue that are inspired by originals of the 1970s. Initial thoughts Appealing for its simple, 1970s style, the new Tank Must is especially striking in red, which is Cartier’s house colour. The cases are all “large model” size, which makes it suited to both genders, though more of a formal-dress watch for men. But they are all unfortunately powered by quartz movements, which are entirely acceptable given the affordable price. Given the style and movement, the new Tank Must is best suited to someone who wants a fuss-free watch that is quintessentially Cartier but not too expensive. Watch enthusiasts will probably have to wait for new versions with mechanical movements in the coming years. Vintage Technicolor The Must de Cartier Tank was born in 1977 as a mass-market product at a low price – and it was a massive hit. Prior to the Must – “I must have a Cartier” – the Tank had only been manufactured in precious metals and never been on an industrial scale. The Must de Cartier watches, which also included the Santos and other case shapes, transformed Cartier into the watch and jewellery giant it is today. While the new Tank Must line encompasses...
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin’s Latest at Watches & Wonders 2021
Style & Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin, Christian Selmoni walks us through the maison’s latest at Watches & Wonders 2021.
Time+Tide
The sleeper Rolex story is that the Batman and Pepsi are back on Oyster and Sky-Dweller is available on Jubilee
There was a major Rolex announcement hidden in plain sight today. It was not mentioned during Rolex’s Watches & Wonders presentation, but our team of sleuth detectives realised that on Rolex.com the model configurator tool will allow buyers to put the Rolex GMT Master II Pepsi & Batman on an Oyster bracelet once again. On … ContinuedThe post The sleeper Rolex story is that the Batman and Pepsi are back on Oyster and Sky-Dweller is available on Jubilee appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The 2021 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection
Many watch enthusiasts have become caught up with the Patek Phillipe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The aforementioned brands and references have reigned supreme in the integrated stainless-steel category for decades, but the challenge of sourcing one at retail has led many to finally give due credit to the equally fascinating Vacheron Constantin Overseas. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The 2021 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Personal Wristwatch Of Bugatti Founder Ettore Bugatti: Made By Mido And Now Up For Auction
Bugatti Founder Ettore Bugatti was a fanatic for details with the mind of a sculptor. His visions on four wheels still grace the most elite concours d’elegance around the world. And his personal Mido watch on a bespoke gold bracelet is set to be auctioned by Stanislas Machoïr on Saturday April 17, 2021. Martin Green shares a few more details about this priceless artifact here.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Modernising two-tone with the 2021 Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Collection
While all the rage in the ’80s, many consumers have deviated away from two-tone designs in today’s marketplace. Historically two tone is comprised of stainless steel and a precious metal in a contrasting tone (such as yellow or pink gold). But forward-thinking manufacturers have realised there is possibly a better combination of tones that will … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Modernising two-tone with the 2021 Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
How not to talk to total strangers about their watch
I was 35,000ft over the Atlantic when I first freaked someone out about his watch. It was in the line for the airplane toilet. A guy was ahead of me, wrestling a full-bladdered toddler. This, I reasoned, is exactly the moment he’ll want a stranger to ask about his Panerai. He’ll tell me the story … ContinuedThe post How not to talk to total strangers about their watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Is the Batavi Architect the sharpest microbrand take on the integrated bracelet sports watch?
Gerald Genta-inspired? Perhaps, but still very much its own style and formal elegance. The Batavi Architect is the latest upcoming release from the Dutch microbrand behind the popping fresh Kosmopoliet GMT, a colourful take on a vintage skin diver with a GMT function. This time the influence is from the laid-back cool of the 70s, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Is the Batavi Architect the sharpest microbrand take on the integrated bracelet sports watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Apple set to release a more rugged Apple Watch Explorer Edition to compete with G-Shock
Apple now sells more watches than the entire Swiss watch industry. But not satisfied with its extraordinary dominance, the brand is now reportedly looking to expand its watch portfolio. The company has explored many materials, including aluminum, titanium, stainless steel, ceramics, and even 18K gold. Throughout these designs their case profile has remained largely unchanged, … ContinuedThe post Apple set to release a more rugged Apple Watch Explorer Edition to compete with G-Shock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection delivers a skeletonised update
How do you update a classic? It’s a problem that many designers face, whether they work in the watch industry, automotives or product design. How do you retain the original idea behind a design and still bring it forward into the here and now? This is a question that the Rado Captain Cook designers must … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection delivers a skeletonised update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the URWERK UR-100V “Blue Planet”
Two years on from its initial introduction, URWERK launches the sixth version of the UR-100 in a blue PVD steel case, the URWERK UR-100V “Blue Planet”
Quill & Pad
New And Nostalgic: Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph In Lime Gold And 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins Limited Edition 100 In Bronze Half-Hunter Case
The new Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 vibes in a decidedly cool color scheme dominated by proprietary Lime Gold, while the 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins Limited Edition 100 comes in a bronze case oozing with the warm look and feel of a gold-colored material of bygone days. Both look great, and Sabine Zwettler is still not sure which version she finds more appealing.
Deployant
Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph Flag – special report after 2 weeks on the wrist
We received a Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph Flag review loaner for a fortnight to try out. Here is our report after the 2 weeks as our daily driver.
Revolution
Goldtech: Alessandro Ficarelli on the Future of Gold According to Panerai
Panerai, the Italian masters of undersea naval exploration, excel at the art of the well-executed dive watch, a genre typically associated with sturdy cases made from steel, titanium and the like. But Panerai’s distinctive cushions can also be found in a sophisticated array of high-tech materials, as well as one perhaps even more surprising, gold. Or rather, Goldtech.
SJX Watches
GoS Imagines Aurora Borealis in Guilloche and Super-Luminova
A Swedish watchmaker founded by knife maker Johan Gustafsson and watchmaker Patrik Sjögren, Gustafsson & Sjögren (GoS) is best known for incorporating pattern-welded steel, better known as Damascus steel, in its watches. But GoS also frequently works with fellow watchmakers and artisans, à la MB&F; but at a more affordable level. Its latest watch is a five-way collaboration that combines traditional guilloche, generous Super-Luminova, and hand-made glass: the Norrsken, Swedish for northern lights, the seasonal light display seen over the North Pole. Initial thoughts The Norrsken is a departure from mainstream watchmaking, but even stands out against the increasingly crowded independent watchmaking scene. It is made up of familiar elements, like the guilloche dial and Black Badger “lume”, but of high quality and combined in an interesting, novel manner. Produced by a well-known guilloche specialist, the dial is artisanal but excellent. Similarly, the case also looks to be just as well-executed, with the bezel available in either polished or Damascus steel; though the latter makes the most sense given GoS’ speciality. And the movement comes from Schwarz Etienne (a brand that has enjoyed greater success with its movements in watches other than its own), but equipped with a micro-rotor crafted from Damascus steel. The green Damascus steel dial, seen here in a prototype And the Norrsken lives up to its name, managing to evoke northern lights, or aurora borealis, in...
Quill & Pad
RGM Model 600 Chronograph: A Perfect Fit
Joshua Munchow appreciates brands that work hard to build their heritage and carve a niche for themselves with solid daily-wear watches while having fun with the occasional haute horlogerie piece, especially if that brand is an independent. And if it's an American brand that makes its watches out of a small shop in Pennsylvania, all the better. Here Joshua reviews the new RGM Model 600 Chronograph, a robust and affordable chronograph suitable as a daily wearer.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Iridium Torpedo is a budget-friendly dive watch with monster specs
The Iridium Torpedo arrives to offer a different take on the budget-friendly dive watch with monster specifications for minimum spending. With looks that stray closer to glamour than “tool watch”, it doesn’t shy away from being highly capable and seriously tough. The Torpedo is available with a black, blue, grey, or green dial, and the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Iridium Torpedo is a budget-friendly dive watch with monster specs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The knockout dazzle of the KITH for G-Shock GM-6900 Rainbow
Polarising did you say? Well, this is like nothing else, I’m back and forth between love and, well, indifference is not a word. Right now, I’m very much in the LOVE camp, and still trying to work out what the hell the KITH for G-Shock GM-6900 Rainbow looks like. A burnished heat shield from a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The knockout dazzle of the KITH for G-Shock GM-6900 Rainbow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Rolex robberies – when your watch makes you a target for crime
Wearing a Rolex will invariably attract attention. Bragging rights aside, owning a Rolex comes with a host of benefits: they can make a great impression with your in-laws, they are built to last for a very long time, they hold their value better than most luxury commodities and, of course, they tell the time unusually … ContinuedThe post The Rolex robberies – when your watch makes you a target for crime appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Richard Mille And Formula 1: Collaborations Now Span Ferrari, McLaren, Mick Schumacher, Charles Leclerc, Fernando Alonso, Kimi Raikönnen, And Romain Grosjean
As the 2021 Formula 1 season begins, Elizabeth Doerr revisits Richard Mille’s impressive commitment to the sport. The brand now supports two full Formula 1 teams and four high-profile drivers (with a fifth still convalescing after a horrific accident in the 2020 season), including Mick Schumacher. These are partnerships as natural as they come: the premise of Richard Mille’s entire brand is built upon the fact that his watches are “racing machines on the wrist.”
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer o2T gets a dark blue makeover to allow its flying tourbillon to shine
I’ll bet many people weren’t even aware of the name o2T, and that’s a big credit to TAG Heuer. It takes guts to downplay the micro-wonders of the mythical tourbillon, swirling slowly inside its cage at 6 o’clock. While we daily see references with less dazzle but 10 words to their model designation, here it’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer o2T gets a dark blue makeover to allow its flying tourbillon to shine appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY 21 Ultrablue adds a touch of indigo to a high-tech tour de force
Only two weeks ago we introduced you to the firework display of bedazzling colours in the DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone, which hypnotised us with small, fresh flashes of the rainbow. This time, Zenith shows us how the angular tool presence of the DEFY series projects an image of quiet elegance, in the Zenith DEFY 21 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY 21 Ultrablue adds a touch of indigo to a high-tech tour de force appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Tissot Heritage Memphis Limited Edition
Tissot reimagines a re-issue of the fabulous collaboration the Memphis Group with four models, reminiscing the style of the 1980s.
SJX Watches
Alain Silberstein Reveals a Quirky, Bauhaus Clock
An architect turned watch designer, Alain Silberstein was a star of the 1990s, being perhaps the most avant-garde watch brand of the decade. The Frenchman’s quirky and geometrical designs were the diametrical opposite of the classical style that was then the industry norm. Though his eponymous brand shut down a few years ago, Mr Silberstein is still active as a designer, most recently collaborating with Louis Erard on an affordable, regulator-style watch. Now he is making a comeback in a big way – literally. With the help from French clockmaker Utinam, Mr Silberstein has taken the cover off the Kontwaz Bauhaus 2, KB2 for short. A monumental skeleton clock, the KB2 is available in two versions: a 2 m high standing timekeeper, or in a compact, wall-mounted form. The KB2 wall clock Alain Silberstein Initial thoughts The KB2 is not Mr Silberstein’s first foray into clocks. He designed several other versions of the Kontwaz Bauhaus in the 1990s, which were produced by a French clockmaker and occasionally pop up on the secondary market today. That makes the new KB2 is a pleasant surprise that harks back to his earlier career. As with most Silberstein creations, the appeal of the KB2 lies in the design, which is complex and distinctive, yet composed of simple shapes. The geometrical forms and colours are lightly arranged in harmonious whole – an impressive feat, for a lesser designer would have just created a mishmash of elements. The standing KB2 The key for winding ...
SJX Watches
Conversation: Wilhelm Schmid, CEO of A. Lange & Söhne
Having taken charge in A. Lange & Söhne at the end of 2010 – while the brand was still suffering from the effects of the 2007-2008 Financial Crisis – Wilhelm Schmid has now been the German watchmaker’s chief executive for a bit over a decade. He did not join Lange from within watchmaking, instead he was recruited from a German luxury brand of another sort, the carmaker BMW. But in the decade since Mr Schmid has carefully and steadily developed the brand, and in the process become one of the longest-tenured – and highly regarded – leaders in the watch industry. From its modern-day foundation in 1994, Lange made watches of first-class quality. That, along with the ethos of the brand, has been preserved, but at the same time, Mr Schmid has deftly evolved the brand’s image, in both product and communication – the Odysseus being an obvious example – bringing its peerless quality recognition amongst a broader audience. The brand’s success in recent years has translated into robust demand for its products – a good problem to have but one that Mr Schmid apologises for, as you’ll find out below. I spoke with Mr Schmid over Zoom last month, and enjoyed a wide ranging conversation that looked back on the last 10 years, as well as forward, where he notes e-commerce is now a certainty for Lange, but online exclusives are not. Zooming with the Odysseus The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: How has Lange been coping with the disruptions of 2020? Wil...
Time+Tide
Recommended Reading: Dufour and Journe are basically the Patek and Rolex of the Indies, and they are on a tear
The tide seems to be shifting in the auction world towards scarcity and craftsmanship, rather than scratched-up provenance and movie-star affiliations. We could see results of this theory already in our story on the latest Antiquorum auction here. In Monaco, the auction darlings of the last five years, steel sports Rolex, did OK, whereas the … ContinuedThe post Recommended Reading: Dufour and Journe are basically the Patek and Rolex of the Indies, and they are on a tear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: Leica SL2-S and lenses – a great and productive week as our main camera
Chillout TGIFridays return with a hands-on review of the new Leica SL2-S after a week as our daily camera for our work here.