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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.
Does Cartier’s Tank Américaine Live Up To The Legacy? (Review) WatchAdvice
Cartier s Tank Américaine Live May 22, 2026

Does Cartier’s Tank Américaine Live Up To The Legacy? (Review)

The short answer: Yes! The Cartier Tank Américaine is a standout watch that looks and feels a lot more versatile than it lets on. Let’s find out why! What We Love: A versatile yet elegant design A sportier remix of a legendary icon Wears comfortably on the leather strap What We Don’t: Readability suffers in the first and third quarters The crown is small and fiddly Where’s the display caseback? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 I think that, since I began working at WatchAdvice, my opinion on Cartier has changed the least. I’d already heard so much about it from every corner of culture; rap songs and rom-coms sing equal praise of the Parisian powerhouse. So, when this opportunity came along, it simply allowed me to get closer to a brand I had already learned to appreciate. With closeness, though, comes closer scrutiny. Cartier bears the weight of a rich legacy on its shoulders, and even the smallest deviation can have Cartier fans questioning their loyalty. Its model lines, in both jewellery and watchmaking, have become so iconic that remixing them is a massive risk. Getting it wrong, depending on who you ask, is intolerable. These are the stakes Cartier faces with the Tank Américaine. How could they possibly change the formula of such a universally popular watch collection while preserving the original DNA? That’s what I aimed to find out when I took the Tank Américaine for a spin some time ago...

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Can’t Stop, Won’t Stop: The 2026 Ride to Conquer Cancer Collection Is Here Worn & Wound
Seiko VK64 mechaquartz again — May 21, 2026

Can’t Stop, Won’t Stop: The 2026 Ride to Conquer Cancer Collection Is Here

Last year, we launched our first Ride to Conquer Cancer collection alongside a two-day, 200km ride for the Princess Margaret Cancer Centre. The response was incredible. So, we’re doing it again. The 2026 Ride to Conquer Cancer is on, with Matt Smith-Johnson once again leading our “Can’t Stop, Won’t Stop” team into the saddle for two days and 200 kilometers. To back the team this year, we’ve expanded the project to three pieces — all designed to support the cause and look good doing it. The 2026 BOLDR Conquer Limited Edition Chronograph For year two, we wanted to push the design further while keeping what worked the first time around. Mechanically and dimensionally, the watch is unchanged from the 2025 release — same 41mm titanium Venture case, 12.5mm thick, 46mm lug-to-lug, 20mm lugs, same 200m of water resistance, screw-down crown, and flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Inside, the Seiko VK64 mechaquartz again — quartz accuracy with the snappy mechanical feel of a real chrono pusher. What’s new is the finish. The middle of the case is now done in a saturated pink Cerakote, leaving the rest of the watch’s technical foundation untouched. The watch was once again designed by longtime W&W; collaborator and team rider Matt Smith-Johnson, who explained his thinking: “The Princess Margaret has been using the slogan ‘Carry The Fire’ for the last couple of years. To me, that’s the passion for creating change in the world. As with our t...

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Introducing: The Arken Alterum Sage Grey Hodinkee
Ming May 21, 2026

Introducing: The Arken Alterum Sage Grey

What We Know Arken, the UK-based microbrand, has come back into the spotlight with the next public edition of its popular traveler dual-time watch, this time with a "Sage Grey" dial. It follows two preceding versions, one with a grey dial and one with a black dial, both of which were introduced back in 2023 and offered first as 200-piece preorders, a restock, and then an open-ended run early last year. While those versions are no longer available to order online, Arken founder Kenneth Lam told me that those editions can still be found at shows and via the brand's slowly growing network of retailers. And while the brand was busy assembling watches and fulfilling these orders all of last year, those who keep a close eye on the brand or have gone to any of Arken's meetups will know that a few "Speakeasy" editions have since popped up, available only in person and at these specific shows and meetups, often coming with a Cerakoted case. But finally, this new Sage Grey Alterum marks another reference that will be available to the broader public.  First introduced earlier this year at British Watchmakers' Day, this new dial takes the classic British racing green and desaturates it to an extreme, offering only a small hint of its verdant nature in what otherwise appears to be a quite monochromatic dial. A sand-colored dual-time hand adds a subtle touch of warmth to the otherwise cool dial, which complements the grey hue of the 38mm grade 2 titanium case. On the dial, two small ci...

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Serica Introduces the new Ref. 7505 Worn & Wound
Serica Introduces May 21, 2026

Serica Introduces the new Ref. 7505

One of my favorite things is when a brand releases a watch that feels like the watch they always should have made. I’m sure we can all point to examples of this – that feeling that a new watch really belongs in the brand’s catalog, and we’re kind of surprised it never existed in the first place. That’s sort of how I think about the latest release from Serica, the Ref. 7505 Field Chronometer. Doesn’t it seem like Serica always had a 35mm field watch in their collection?  More than any other watch the brand has released to date, this feels like a distillation of what the brand is really about. You’ll recall that they launched with a collection of military inspired field watches all the way back in 2019, which at the time felt like they were already going a little against the grain at just under 38mm in diameter. In the years since, they’ve iterated on this general idea, with an ongoing series of sporty selections rooted in a kind of imagined vintage world, never borrowing too much from any one classic reference, but pulling from a variety of sources to create something that is uniquely their own. Part of that has always meant keeping the watches fairly compact. Looking over the press materials for this watch and thinking about the direction the brand has gone in, I wonder if, if circumstances had been different, they may have started here, with a 35mm field watch, to begin with.  This is unquestionably the right time to introduce a watch like this, at a mom...

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The Serica 7505 Series Creatively Revisits The Brand’s Inaugural Field Watch Fratello
Serica 7505 Series Creatively Revisits May 21, 2026

The Serica 7505 Series Creatively Revisits The Brand’s Inaugural Field Watch

Time flies, doesn’t it? I first had a chance to try out the Serica 4512 California back in 2021. Since then, we have seen plenty of remarkable releases from the Parisian brand. The steadily growing collection was extended with a diver, a travel GMT, and a dress watch. On top of that, Serica kept us […] Visit The Serica 7505 Series Creatively Revisits The Brand’s Inaugural Field Watch to read the full article.

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All the Panels from the 2026 Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant May 21, 2026

All the Panels from the 2026 Windup Watch Fair San Francisco

The 2026 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco was easily our largest event in California yet! It was punctuated by amazing brands, cool watches, and numerous activities. However, it was the panels that helped maintain that classic Windup vibe and we had four great ones over the course of the event. Precision Meets Passion: Frederique Constant and the Padel Phenomenon Padel is no longer just a trend—it’s a global commercial powerhouse on track to become a $6 billion industry by 2028. Join Kaitlin Derkach (Marketing Director, Frederique Constant) and Diane Gotua (CCO, Pro Padel League) as they discuss the “lifestyle-first” strategy driving padel’s explosive 50% year-over-year growth in the U.S. and why Frederique Constant is betting on this high-energy, enthusiast-friendly sport. EDC Expo Panel: Building a Quiver vs. Collection Many collectors don’t think in rigid frameworks—they follow curiosity and passion wherever it leads. Others work within self-imposed rules around style, function, or brand. This panel brings together Jim Wirth (Founder/CEO at GiantMouse Knives), Christian Freissler (Co-Founder at Evolve Agency and Creative Director at Shinzo Tamura), and Harrison McCrindle (Head of Government Operations at Marathon Watch Company) for a candid conversation about the art, science, and emotion of collecting across knives, sunglasses, watches, and everyday carry. Together, they’ll explore different philosophies of gear collecting, from logical progressions t...

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First Look – From Video Game to Reality, the New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light Monochrome
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph May 21, 2026

First Look – From Video Game to Reality, the New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light

The connection between Omega and movie franchise James Bond 007 is one of the strongest imaginable, dating back to Goldeneye in 1995. Since then, at least one Omega watch has been worn on screen by the world’s most famous secret agent, in every movie released since. And while we don’t yet know who will incarnate […]

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Omega Introduces The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light Fratello
Omega Introduces May 21, 2026

Omega Introduces The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light

Omega continues its long-running partnership with James Bond with the new Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light. This time, however, the inspiration does not come from the silver screen. Instead, the watch debuts alongside the upcoming 007 First Light video game from IO Interactive and Amazon MGM Studios. The watch appears in the game […] Visit Omega Introduces The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph 007 First Light to read the full article.

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In Case The Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop Inspired You, Here Are Some Modern Pocket Watches Fratello
Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop May 21, 2026

In Case The Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop Inspired You, Here Are Some Modern Pocket Watches

Fashion is a fickle and unpredictable muse, isn’t she? While some predict the demise of the analog watch under pressure from smartwatches, something as unexpected as the Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop could imaginably swing the pendulum the other way. Could it trigger a resurgence of ye olde pocket watch? And if so, are […] Visit In Case The Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop Inspired You, Here Are Some Modern Pocket Watches to read the full article.

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Introducing – The Ressence Type 7 Black and Type 7 Cactus, now with Optional Rubber Straps Monochrome
Ressence Type 7 Black May 21, 2026

Introducing – The Ressence Type 7 Black and Type 7 Cactus, now with Optional Rubber Straps

What is Ressence if not one of the most recognisable identities in independent watchmaking? From the crownless Type 3 (check out the recent Type 3 Marc Newson) to the oil-filled Type 5, Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens has consistently challenged the conventional relationship between display, ergonomics and mechanical watchmaking, leading to the introduction of the Type […]

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Seiko Introduces a Pair of Limited Editions in the Presage Collection to Celebrate a Big Anniversary Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces May 20, 2026

Seiko Introduces a Pair of Limited Editions in the Presage Collection to Celebrate a Big Anniversary

The slow drip of Seiko limited editions to celebrate the brand’s 145th anniversary continues with a pair of releases in their Presage collection. The Presage line has long been one of my favorites in the Seiko catalog, and I’ve always felt these watches were a bit slept on compared to sportier watches in the Prospex line. The Presage collection is not just more “dress watch” oriented, but the watches under this banner frequently build on traditional Japanese craft techniques and offer a ton of value. It feels like we’re in a moment where these watches might be prime for a greater appreciation, as enthusiasts are more comfortable than they’ve ever been with smaller cases, exotic dials, and less sport oriented watches in general.  Of the two watches in the Presage line announced recently, the one that sticks in my mind the most is the new HCC007, with an Arita porcelain dial in cobalt blue. We’ve seen a number of Presage releases with porcelain dials over the years, often drawing on the traditional porcelain crafted in Arita for inspiration. This is a great example of the way Seiko incorporates very traditional Japanese craftsmanship into watches that are relatively affordable and don’t skimp at all on aesthetics.  The HCC007’s porcelain dial features a blue glaze in the same color as traditional Arita porcelain, and is the first time this color has been seen in the Presage collection. The dial is constructed with a radiating, sunken center section and an...

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Introducing: The Mermont La Parfaite Considers The Simple Art Of Time Telling In Elevated Form (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Breguet style numerals While May 20, 2026

Introducing: The Mermont La Parfaite Considers The Simple Art Of Time Telling In Elevated Form (Live Pics)

What We Know If our ability to value our precious time is a gift, then the simplicity of the Mermont La Parfaite reminds us to slow down and savor it. The debut public model from the new Swiss brand is a study in elevated minimalism. A solo hour hand, polished and hand-finished by master watchmaker Nicolas Delaloye, is the centerpiece.  Sculpted and curved with a heart or spade-shaped cutout, the heat-treated, single stainless steel hand has been hand-finished and sits high enough from the dial that it can be observed from multiple angles. It circles the slanted minute track dial once every twelve hours, making precise reading of the time more of a loose, approximate estimate than an exact by-the-second measurement. That's despite the fact that the hand-wound movement is regulated by Delaloye to high accuracy. And that's the point. The pared-down time telling demands one take stock and consider the few, but highly considered design choices from the brand, founded by Swiss-based collector and watch expert Sebastien Bey-Haut, that is produced and assembled in Geneva at Delaloye's facilities. The color-shifting blue dial features a colimaçon sunburst finish, achieved with colored pigments mixed with Zapon varnish. And indeed, seen in person, the colors of the dial can change dramatically depending on the light, from a bright blue to inky navy and even dark purple. The classic slanted minute track is surrounded by printed Breguet-style numerals. While the 'Mermont' brand lo...

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First Look – The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Aventurine (incl. Video) Monochrome
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance May 20, 2026

First Look – The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Aventurine (incl. Video)

To our regular readers, Armin Strom needs no introduction. To those new to watchmaking, let’s say that over the past decade, the independent brand has established itself as one of the (very) few manufacturers to truly master resonance in a wristwatch. The Dual Time GMT Resonance has become one of Armin Strom’s signature platforms, evolving […]

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The Business of Watches Podcast: Christopher Ward CEO Mike France Hodinkee
Christopher Ward CEO Mike France May 20, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Christopher Ward CEO Mike France

This week on The Business of Watches, we're talking to the head of what's now the largest U.K.-based watch brand, Christopher Ward. Under the direction of Chief Executive Officer Mike France, the Swiss-made, approachable-priced watchmaker has enjoyed outsized growth in recent years, due in part to popular and surprising releases like its Bel Canto chiming watch and its commitment to keeping prices in check. Photo courtesy Christopher Ward.  Now Christopher Ward, which recently overhauled its core Sealander collection, is eyeing an ambitious retail expansion plan in its biggest market, the United States. France lays out the economics and business case for the brand's unique retail approach, powered by deep community relationships built with customers over the past two decades. The ambitions aren't insignificant. From a handful of showrooms now, the company could have as many as 25 to 30 locations in the U.S. alone within half a decade, the CEO says.  He sees Christopher Ward as a brand with the potential to reach £250 million in total annual sales, up from about £50 million today. France expects to hit £100 million in annual sales within three years. He's also refreshingly candid about the threat that U.S. tariffs posed to the business and how the levies forced it to change the way its watches are shipped to and distributed in the country. Tariffs were also a significant drag on financial results in 2025, but the brand is forecasting a rebound in 2026 if import dutie...

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Introducing – The New Awake Son Mai Guilloché Main, a Dazzling Display of Craftsmanship Monochrome
May 20, 2026

Introducing – The New Awake Son Mai Guilloché Main, a Dazzling Display of Craftsmanship

After moving on from its space-themed watches, Awake – the French indie brand founded by Lilian Thibault in 2019 – celebrated its fifth anniversary with the Son Mai, a permanent collection built around craftsmanship. The collection, which features richly decorated dials created using the ancient Vietnamese lacquering technique of Son Mai, now grows with the […]

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Introducing: The New, Smaller Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Lineup Fratello
May 20, 2026

Introducing: The New, Smaller Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Lineup

We’ve been following Awake since well before the 2024 introduction of its Sơn Mài collection. The watches, which feature painstakingly layered Vietnamese lacquer over silver leaf, have vaulted the brand into new territory. Each release is greeted with fervor from fans, and the limited editions frequently sell out quickly. Until now, the watches have featured […] Visit Introducing: The New, Smaller Awake Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Lineup to read the full article.

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Hands-On With The Sero Silver Signature Fratello
Christiaan van der Klaauw Grönefeld May 20, 2026

Hands-On With The Sero Silver Signature

The Netherlands is not exactly known as a traditional watchmaking powerhouse. This is a small country of people practical by nature and generally not inclined toward excessive displays of luxury. Over the years, though, several Dutch watch brands have built impressive international reputations. Names like Christiaan van der Klaauw, Grönefeld, and Holthinrichs immediately come to […] Visit Hands-On With The Sero Silver Signature to read the full article.

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“Quartz” Is No Longer A Dirty Word — All Is Forgiven, And It’s Time To Embrace The Battery Or The Solar Cell Fratello
Seiko set something May 20, 2026

“Quartz” Is No Longer A Dirty Word — All Is Forgiven, And It’s Time To Embrace The Battery Or The Solar Cell

When something happened way over half a century ago, it is now time to forgive and embrace. Not to forgive and forget, mind you, but forgive and embrace. With the introduction of the Astron in 1969, Seiko set something in motion that shook the traditional Swiss watch industry to its core. Its existence was in […] Visit “Quartz” Is No Longer A Dirty Word — All Is Forgiven, And It’s Time To Embrace The Battery Or The Solar Cell to read the full article.

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Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne May 20, 2026

Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este

When we write about watches at Fratello, we typically have three levels of engagement with the product. First, we have our basic introduction articles, for which we base our writing solely on press materials, keeping it brief and factual. Second, we have our hands-on reviews, which allow us to spend time with the watch before […] Visit Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este to read the full article.

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Revisting The Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar Ice Blue Review WatchAdvice
Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar Ice May 19, 2026

Revisting The Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar Ice Blue Review

The first standard production watch with the Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar movement, of course, had to be a Navitimer. We have gone hands-on with it to see how it stacks up! What We Love That ice-blue dial is stunning! Has an amazing wrist presence and an iconic design Easy to use and adjust movement with the perpetual calendar What We Don’t The reverse-style strap can get in the way, depending on your wrist size The 30m water resistance is on the low side The 43mm size will not suit all wrist sizes if you have a smaller wrist Overall Rating: 9 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Originally published as: Reviewing The New Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar In Ice Blue When you think of Breitling, one of the first, if not the first, model that comes to mind is the Navitimer. Not only is it one of Breitling’s most iconic models, but it is also one of the most iconic watches out there, thanks to its history, unique slide-rule bezel and overall design cues that make it stand out. You can easily recognise a Navitimer on the wrist from a distance. In that regard, it’s up there with the Submariner, the Speedmaster, the Luminor, and the Royal Oak, to name but a few. So it stands to reason that it was one of the models to receive the new in-house B19 Perpetual Calendar movement as part of Breitling’s 140th Anniversary Collection. The 18k Rose Gold 140th Anniversary Navitimer B19 Chronograph Perpetual Calendar. This was my p...

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Damaged Goods: the Audemars Piguet x Swatch Royal Oak Debacle Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet x Swatch Royal Oak May 19, 2026

Damaged Goods: the Audemars Piguet x Swatch Royal Oak Debacle

The hype started immediately. Just a little over a week ago, Audemars Piguet and Swatch began teasing the unthinkable: a collaboration. Well, not just a collab, it quickly became clear that this would be another bioceramic recreation, of sorts, of an iconic watch. Named “Royal Pop,” thus evoking the most Veblen of watches, the Royal Oak. Without even showing what the final product would be, collectors, enthusiasts, speculators, hype chasers, pop culture analysts, your awkward relative that texts you everything watch-related they stumble upon, knew this would be big. Not just big in terms of the watch industry, but big in terms of product launches on a global level. Think iPhone, but dumber. When Swatch launched the MoonSwatch back in 2022, there were similar initial reactions. Contempt, excitement, speculation. On the day of launch, I met up with Worn & Wound co-founder Blake Malin to head to a store to maybe pick one up. While on the train, we heard about the lines and decided to bail. Thanks to sites like StockX and eBay, the value of these watches skyrocketed before launch, drawing in a crowd of opportunistic resellers. No shade towards them, a living is a living, but the tone of the launch shifted. It wasn’t for us anymore. Eventually, social media outlets reported that some of the lines were getting rowdy. Not a good look. Despite the inane “boutique” launch model, eventually we got the watches, and, for a time, they were fun. Back to 2026 – despite knowin...

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In Partnership - Gatherings: Gerald Charles Brings Legacy To The Present In SoHo Hodinkee
Gerald Charles May 19, 2026

In Partnership - Gatherings: Gerald Charles Brings Legacy To The Present In SoHo

Enthusiasts and collectors made their way to SoHo for an exclusive and exciting event, hosted by Hodinkee, Gerald Charles, and Watches of Switzerland. Fresh from the whirlwind that is Watches & Wonders, this event marked the first opportunity for Gerald Charles to introduce their latest collection to the U.S.-based collectors. The evening celebrated a brand on the rise, featuring a comprehensive look at the brand's offerings, both past and present, including the beautiful, bespoke Maestro GC39 Li Galli in white gold, a watch conceptualized and designed by Mr. Genta himself two decades ago, hosting his favorite Jumping Hours complication. This exceptional pièce unique, which has spent the last several weeks on display at Watches & Wonders and in the Gerald Charles Atelier, was inspired by the untouched Li Galli archipelago off the Amalfi Coast and represents a profound expression of Maestro from its earliest days. Vintage Maestro GC39 Li Galli in white gold. Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar's first stop in the United States after their W&W; release. The highlight of the event was an animated discussion between Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles, and Tim Jeffreys, Hodinkee Deputy Editor. Following a warm introduction and welcome to all in the room from Tim Jeffreys, the conversation continued, covering the newly released watches, the DNA that sets the Maestro case apart, as well as the decisions, thoughts, and work that continue to make Gerald Charles watche...

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Introducing – The Kurono Tokyo Malachite 2026 Special Projects Monochrome
Kurono Tokyo Malachite 2026 Special Projects May 19, 2026

Introducing – The Kurono Tokyo Malachite 2026 Special Projects

Created by Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, a man capable of creating superb watches and movements, Kurono Tokyo aims to apply his design language to a more accessible price range. While the entire production of the brand is limited and relatively difficult to obtain, the “special projects” collection adds a sense of exclusivity through the […]

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