32,429 articles · 179 videos found · page 304 of 1087
Deployant
Bulgari debuts the new Octo Solotempo at Baselworld 2016. This time and date timepiece comes in two variations, one with an all black DLC case and another with a 18k gold bezel. Bearing the iconic octagonal shape, the Octo Solotempo is a simple yet good looking timepiece, versatile as a sports watch and as a classic beater.
Revolution
Stephen Forsey was in New York in December to introduce the new GMT Black –a black DLC coated, titanium-cased version of the Greubel Forsey GMT –and over lunch, he told me that one of his greatest sources of frustration was the extent to which Greubel Forsey watches seem to constantly be discussed in the context […]
Fratello
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we return after more travel and a birthday celebration to discuss the Japanese watch market. While the topic may sound quizzical, the Land of the Rising Sun presents a unique set of challenges and opportunities. We talk about this and more! This podcast player […] Visit Fratello On Air: Navigating The Japanese Watch Market to read the full article.
Hodinkee
One of the brands we don’t talk about all that often here is Arnold & Son. It’s a brand that offers an interesting heritage story—Swiss watchmaking with English roots, as the brand proudly headlines on its website in homage to eighteenth-century watchmaker John Arnold. It sits within the Citizen Group as one of the brand’s prestige properties, along with Angelus, and both are led by Pascal Béchu. Many people may be surprised to find out that the Citizen Group’s portfolio extends quite a bit out of Japan, with other familiar names like Bulova, Frederique Constant, Alpina, and La-Joux Perret as key properties, but Arnold & Son stands out mostly due to its price point and complicated high horology offerings. A little over two weeks ago, in time for WatchTime NY, Arnold & Son introduced a new update to the brand’s DSTB models—the new DSTB Stop-Seconds limited editions in Cliff Grey and Kingsand. Both are limited to 18 pieces each. On the surface, they might look just like new dial and metal combinations for the pre-existing DSTB (Dial-Side True Beat) references, but these new editions get a pretty major upgrade—hacking functionality for the deadbeat seconds. Hacking seconds might not seem like an update worthy of celebration, but for a watch that puts so much emphasis on the seconds hand, it is a welcome sight. The deadbeat (or true-seconds) complication is, unsurprisingly, the focus of the architecture here, thanks to the mechanism of the complication iso...
Fratello
Watch fairs offer something online releases and product announcements can’t replicate — the chance to see watches in person, handle them, and talk directly to the people behind the brands. For enthusiasts, they can also be a great way to discover independent watchmakers and meet others who share the hobby. In this special on-location episode […] Visit Fratello Talks: With Daniela Pusch Live From WatchTime Düsseldorf to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The early days of the wristwatch were interesting for the variety of forms and functions that were conceived as watchmakers were experimenting with a nascent device. One such watch is the Audemars Piguet triple calendar with moon phase in platinum from 1927 that’s one of the top lots in Monaco Legend’s upcoming sale. Now almost 100 years old, this triple calendar exemplifies the period when wristwatches, particularly complicated ones, were expensive and cutting-edge objects. Form cases in general seem to have been fashionable when wristwatches were a novelty. Leaving aside the round “trench” watches used by soldiers, many of the landmark wristwatch designs for civilians were in form cases. Examples include the Cartier Tank, Santos, and Tonneau. Many such wristwatches were time only, but there was clearly a tiny handful of clients for complicated wristwatches. Calendar watches, many in form cases, were also in vogue. Most prestigious watchmakers produced such watches, albeit on a tiny scale in a near-artisanal manner, making each of these watches almost unique. Breguet, for example, sold a tonneau-shaped retrograde perpetual calendar in 1935 to Coco Chanel’s romantic partner. Audemars Piguet made fewer than 50 such rectangular triple calendar wristwatches in the 30 years from 1924, and this is the one example known in platinum. All of these watches were powered by the cal. 10GHSM, as this one is, save for the very first example that was made in 1924 and now reside...
WatchRider
Attending the WARO (Watching Romania) event in Bucharest is always an exciting experience for anyone who genuinely loves horology. It is one of those watch gatherings where you do not just admire timepieces through display cases, you actually get to talk to creators, feel the weight of the cases, and discover microbrands that rarely get the mainstream spotlight. During our latest visit, one brand in particular caught our attention at the tables: Vertigo Watches. Hailing from Rome, Italy, Vertigo is an independent microbrand focused on delivering solid mechanical design, distinctive aesthetics, and strong value for money. While browsing their collection, three specific models stood out. Here is our grounded, hands-on look at what Vertigo brings to the wrist. Vertigo Pilot One V2 Full Lume The Pilot One V2 Full Lume immediately catches your eye, even in normal ambient light. Flieger and pilot-style watches usually focus on stark legibility, but Vertigo took it a step further here by coating the entire dial surface in luminous material. It comes in a 41mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 14mm, giving it a solid presence on the wrist without feeling overly cumbersome. Inside, it houses the manual-wind Seagull ST1901 mechanical chronograph movement. Watching the hand-wound movement through the display back adds that tactile connection many collector enthusiasts crave. VERTIGO Tornante Black: Vintage Motorsport Energy Moving away from aviation and into th...
SJX Watches
After several years in the red and challenging market conditions predicted, Zenith is seeking higher ground by focusing on high-end watchmaking, eliminating about 200 jobs in the process. As reported by Swiss newspaper Le Temps, chief executive Benoit de Clerk broke the news to employees on Thursday, citing the strong Franc, US tariffs, and weak demand from the Middle East and Asia. Zenith’s pivot was foreshadowed by the excellent GFJ line launched last year, and comes in the wake of Jean Arnault taking charge of the LVMH’s watch brands, namely Zenith, TAG Heuer, and Hublot, after having engineered Louis Vuitton’s ascent into fine watchmaking. The middle market, which Zenith flees, is particularly brutal – expensive to play in and competitive. Zenith is not the only one to abandon it, Mr de Clerk also referenced the closure of Montblanc’s Le Locle factory, as that brand too shifts focus upmarket. Zenith’s greatest strengths, its mature, capable manufacturing base and wide distribution, are oversized for the brand’s production volume. Unable to feed this beast or put it to work, Zenith will be cutting about a hundred jobs, roughly half of its workforce, in Le Locle, and a further hundred in retail and distribution. In 2024, LVMH announced plans to grow Zenith’s Le Locle manufacture to supply other group brands with movements. Hublot had been using Zenith movements for a decade already, and LVMH envisioned an entire catalog of Zenith-made “in-house” move...
Monochrome
Aldo Kane, an expedition leader, former Royal Marines sniper, and television adventurer, has spent the better part of a decade as a Bremont ambassador, putting the brand’s watches through volcanoes, jungles, oceans and mountains. We talk about how the relationship began, why he prefers a simple mechanical watch to a wrist computer, and what eight […]
SJX Watches
Urwerk’s latest interpretation of the wandering hours complication ventures beyond classical physics with the UR-300 Time Quantum, which debuts a cleverly constructed jumping display inspired by quantum mechanics. Housed in a sleek new titanium case with a choice of finishes, the UR-300 is almost as cutting-edge on the inside as its futuristic design makes it out to be, with LIGA-formed levers and wheels that catapult the display forwards in the blink of an eye. Initial thoughts According to Urwerk, the design of the UR-300 was inspired by the property of quantum entanglement, which informed the functional design of the new jumping wandering hours module. This explains why when one of the two “atoms” responsible for the hours flips, so does the other. I got a preview of the prototype movement earlier this year and was immediately taken by the new display and the elegance of its mechanism, which takes a familiar look and adds a surprising, jumping twist. The final design of the space ship-like case suits the concept, making it immediately recognisable as an Urwerk. Ultimately, the unique selling proposition of this watch is aesthetic, but it’s an aesthetic that only works thanks to clever engineering. That said, the roughly US$200,000 asking price is steep by the standards of high-end wandering hours complications, whether from Urwerk or larger brands like Audemars Piguet that, admittedly, have vastly different economies of scale. But no brand does futurism quite li...
Fratello
These days, “finishing” is a buzzword. Talk to fans of high horology, and you will most likely hear terms like “anglage,” “black polish,” and “perlage.” It seems like everything is about finishing nowadays, which made a master watchmaker tell me that decorating every last piece of a movement is not the essence of watchmaking. He […] Visit Does Finishing Make A Watch Movement Work Well, Or Is It Just A Beautifying Trick? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
We’re at an interesting time when it comes to the dialogue in the watch community on vintage inspired watches. Watches that make explicit references to the past are simply less common now than they were a decade ago, or even 4 or 5 years ago. I’ve long believed that a maturing group of collectors who entered the hobby when these watches were all the rage have aged into a point in their collecting journeys when more adventurous and contemporary designs simply have more interest. But this theory really only applies to what most of us refer to as “midcentury” watches. Think about the earliest dive watches from Rolex, Blancpain, and others, the types of dress and everyday watches worn by Don Draper on Mad Men, and extending through to the earliest bits of 60s and 70s funkiness. That’s the vintage inspired wheelhouse for watch brands seeking to tap into the community’s desire to commune with the past, whether through real or imagined nostalgia. Watches from a century ago are an entirely different category. Enter the Hamilton American Classic Cushion Mechanical. This is an entirely new collection from the brand that finds them looking to designs from the 1920s for inspiration. Watches from this period never really had a widespread moment of resurgence like divers from the 1960s, but if you’ve spent some time in the hobby you’ve undoubtedly encountered collectors who are deeply into exactly this kind of thing. There are a number of interesting reasons to colle...
Fratello
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. We’re back after a couple of weeks under the weather and ready to talk watches. But we’re not just talking about them; we’re also asking whether watch financing has helped or hurt the hobby we all enjoy. Perhaps that’s an easy question, but the tougher one is […] Visit Fratello On Air: Does Watch Financing Help Or Hurt The Hobby? to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre Videos
On today's episode of our Real Collector series, we talk to Josh P. about his collection of watches. Josh has made his living working with factory robotics and has built a collection that speak to his tool watch sensibilities. Watch the video to see the full collection!
Fratello
We’re already well into 2026, and the watch industry has given us plenty to talk about. From major releases by established manufacturers to smaller brands introducing watches that caught our attention, there has been no shortage of new things to discover. But which watches actually stand out? In this episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho is […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Best Watches Of 2026 So Far to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Ahead of the 2026 US Open, Novak Djokovic caught up with our US Editor Zach Blass to talk tennis, watches, and Hublot editions.
Teddy Baldassarre Videos
When we talk about watches, of course we’re going to mention details like size, style, water resistance, and movements, but if we’re being honest, there’s nothing that immediately affects your perception of a watch like the dial. This is the face of the watch, usually the first thing you see, and it’s up to the dial to
Hodinkee
Chopard came out of Watches and Wonders this year swinging by simply introducing a new colored dial in the L.U.C. 1860, and perhaps it was a great indicator that sometimes, a show-stealer need not be a new mechanical innovation, but rather a refinement of an already great watch. But I would be remiss not to also talk about another release I loved seeing from the brand this year—also really just a new colorway in a limited run of 250 pieces—that I think has not gotten nearly enough love. The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One ref. 168574-3013, in ceramicized titanium with a khaki green dial, marks a decade since the Time Traveler One's original introduction back in 2016. While the overall design of the worldtimer hasn't really changed, the brand hasn't held back in its use of different colors and metal variations for the model, leading to a varied back catalog for this single watch. This new version, with its combination of matte grey, green, and yellow, stands out quite a bit in Chopard's L.U.C lineup. It's the only L.U.C currently in production with a travel complication, and its understated, slightly rugged look literally contrasts with the generally polished, dressy executions of the other L.U.C models. That industrial vibe is thanks to the all-matte, sandblasted dark grey look of the ceramicized grade 5 titanium used for the 42mm by 12.09mm case, including both crowns—the one at 2 o'clock sets the local time and the date, while the crown at 4 o'clock adjusts the cit...
Worn & Wound
Over the last few years, Serica has emerged as one of these small indies or microbrands that has a real identity, seemingly right out of the gate. We often talk about brand like Ming, or Brew, or SpaceOne as new independents that are approachable and have a very distinct design language that you can recognize from across the room, but those brands have a cheat code of sorts in that they make watches that are unapologetically contemporary, or even looking toward the future. Having a genuinely unique perspective aesthetically when you trade in watches that have a vintage vibe about them is a very different proposition. It’s honestly very tough to think of a brand other than Serica that has attempted to do this and managed to pull it off so effectively. The trick, I think, is that they’ve never attempted to actually recreate anything specific from the past. Rather, they’re inspired by vintage design codes, but feel a sense of freedom to interpret those ideas through their own lens. It’s not a modern lens, necessarily (I think that’s where a lot of brands get tripped up, trying to combine the aesthetic of a bunch of different eras in a single watch), but more of an imagined past, or alternate history. Serica is not the only brand to take an approach like this. Isotope and Albishorn have both worked in a similar fashion in recent years, sometimes explicitly developing an elaborate fictional narrative to explain a watch (as is the case with Albishorn), and sometime...
Hodinkee
Just last week, we published a Reference Points video on the Patek Philippe split-seconds wristwatch. The complication itself—a.k.a. the rattrapante—is incredibly important in the brand's history, forming the backbone for some of its greatest and most coveted watches of all time. However, you can't talk about the history of the split without understanding Patek's pocket watches. It's a story that eventually led to one of the brand's most meaningful relationships with a supplier that helped it grow into a powerhouse, a relationship that would last over a century. Instead of going deep in the weeds on pocket watches in our main Reference Points, we're spinning it off into this secondary article—an addendum of sorts—for those who want a bit more background. The story won't be exhaustive; Patek continued to make split-second pocket watches long after they began making the same complication in wristwatch form, and some such watches deserve (and have had) their own standalone stories. There are also many different versions because Patek, at the time, didn't make things in batches the way they would starting in the 1930s. You could probably write 20,000 words on these pocket watches, but rather than go that deep, here's an overview of Patek's split-seconds pocket watches, with a focus on Victorin Piguet's movements. Understanding Patek's History of Split-Seconds Pocket Watches (1878 to 1970s) and the Importance of Victorin Piguet If you read the first part of our story, y...
Hodinkee
It has been a long time since a Panerai has made it onto the list of my favorite watches from a Watches and Wonders showing, but there's one particular model that many of my other colleagues and I have continued to talk about since we first got a glimpse of it in April. I'm talking about the Luminor 8 Giorni, reference PAM01733, in a uniquely finished steel case that Panerai is calling "Brunito steel." Put crudely, this Brunito steel case feels like the distressed-jeans equivalent of the Luminor collection. The large 44mm steel case gets a layer of black PVD treatment, but the final effect is then accomplished through a brushing process by hand. The tendency of black PVD coatings to eventually wear out is an advantage here, as the different monochromatic hues ranging between the bright silver of the base steel and the dark black PVD coating now give the case a look of distressed metal aged over time. The finishing is throughout the entire case, from the inside of the lugs to the caseback and the distinctive crown guard that has become an iconic design element of the Luminor silhouette. Yes, even the strap buckle achieves the same treatment. The handwork also means that each watch is unique, with subtle differences in brushing and fading. I've only seen one in person, so I can't tell you just how different one might be from the next. Though the main draw to this model is the aesthetic, this Luminor's dive watch heritage is not just for show, as it maintains a proper 300-m...
Worn & Wound
Sure, we talk at length about what makes that perfect summer watch. Bright colors, comfortable straps, some water resistance for a splash in the pool. But what about the rest of your EDC? What’s going on there? The second I get home from work, the first order of business is to throw on a pair of shorts, and the last thing I want is a ton of junk in my pockets flopping around. Actually carrying your EDC is the hardest part. Putting together your ideal kit can be easy, but without consideration into how you’re carrying it is where we fall short. You can’t deny the utility of a full-sized Leatherman Wave, but that thing slamming you in the kneecap when free-floating in the less-than-ideal pocket of your Patagonia Baggies is a bummer. Today, we’re taking a look at some lightweight EDC essentials that I’ve been carrying around for the beginning of the summer along with a few tips and tricks to lessen the load in your pockets and enjoy the warm weather. Sunglasses: Ombraz Classics Ombraz takes a completely different approach to how you wear sunglasses. I’m a lifelong glasses wearer, and I’ve always just accepted that glasses have arms and that’s that. I would rather lose my glasses in the ocean and drive home blind than wear a croaky, so I’ve always been left to just hope for the best and that the prescription in my backup pair isn’t too out of date to drive in. Ombraz are unique in that they ditch the arms and integrate a strap right into the design of the...
Fratello
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we talk about car watches, a curious subgenre within our hobby. Sure, the automobile industry is massive and has an equally huge fan base, but collaborations between watch and car brands often misfire. This draws us into a conversation about what we think of […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Curious Case Of Car Watches to read the full article.
Fratello
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we talk about how hype can help or hurt brands. Naturally, there are plenty of other topics on the docket, including television, German culture, and more! This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Hype is a funny […] Visit Fratello On Air: How Hype Can Help Or Hurt A Brand to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
It will be impossible to talk about the new Trafford Crossroads S without discussing the size of the case in great detail, which I fear might be disservice to the watch as a whole, because there are a lot of very nice things about the Crossroads, and it’s one of the most charming new watches from a microbrand that I’ve seen in some time. But the case size is critical, because Trafford has walked a very interesting line with this release, debuting the Crossroads S in two sizes and marketing each based on how they feel the case wears, not its actual measured size. It’s getting by on vibes, as the kids sometimes say. It also capitalizes smartly on the growing trend we’ve seen for smaller, more discreet watches in a really interesting way. The Crossroads S is actually two watches: the Crossroads S 36 and the Crossroads S 40. Neither of these watches are named for their actual measurements, though. Instead, Trafford has used these pretty commonly understood sizing conventions to name the watches based on how, in their estimation, they actually wear. The Crossroads S 40 measures 35mm x 36mm, while the Crossroads S 36 comes in at 31mm by 32mm (both are 9mm thick). Looking at the watches side by side, and compared to other watches in circular cases that are true 40mm and 36mm cases is an interesting lesson in how we perceive size depending on shape. It also, in my opinion, illustrates how one of these watches is absolutely the “correct” size while another is, well, n...
Hodinkee
This week on The Business of Watches, a brand we don't talk about a lot on this channel - Jacob & Co. Complicated, audacious, and expensive, Jacob & Co. watches hold a unique position in the industry. The brand enjoyed a strong 2025, growing sales and volumes, according to estimates by Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult, bucking the industry trend. And the brand recently got some high-profile exposure on the wrist of the Roland Garros winner with French Open champion Alexander Zverev wearing Jacob & Co. during his matches and on the podium. We sat down in Geneva with Benjamin Arabov, the Chief Executive Officer of Jacob & Co., to talk about the brand's operations and strategy. You might be surprised at how Jacob & Co. watches are produced, the size of its production, and how the brand is being impacted by the war in the Middle East. But first, some business news headlines, including looming job cuts at one of Switzerland's most important and respected watch brands, which are the result of shifting trends impacting the industry. Sources: Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult And finally - looking ahead to next week's episode, number 30 in the history of The Business of Watches, we're planning a special Q&A; episode and will gather some of the Hodinkee team, including editor-in-chief James Stacey and editors Mark Kauzlarich and TanTan Wang, to answer your business-related questions. Want to offer up a question? Please drop it in the comments below. We're looking forward to hearing f...
Fratello
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! As promised, we’ve returned after a week with more banter and plenty of watch talk. This time around, we discuss the oft-mentioned summer watch and how we feel about it in 2026. Of course, we cover plenty of other subjects. Enjoy the show! This podcast player […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Summer Watch Is Back! to read the full article.
Hodinkee
At the June 2026 lecture of the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), independent watchmaker Roger W. Smith OBE will trace the remarkable story of the co-axial escapement from George Daniels' original invention in the early 1970s through to its continuing modern evolution. Beginning with Daniels' determination to address the fundamental limitations of the Swiss lever escapement, the talk explores the development of his early experimental pocket watches, together with the long and often difficult process of persuading a skeptical Swiss watch industry to adopt an entirely new escapement system. Drawing on firsthand experience working alongside Daniels during the Millennium Watch project and the launch of the first Omega co-axial wristwatch in 1999, Smith will provide a rare personal insight into a pivotal moment in modern horological history. The second half of the presentation will examine the subsequent technical evolution of the escapement from 2005 onwards, including the development of the single-wheel co-axial and the changing philosophy behind escapement design — moving beyond pure chronometric performance towards long-term stability, durability, and extended service intervals. Due to limited seating, tickets will be released according to this schedule: Gold Members...............May 26 (12 PM ET)Silver Members..............May 28 (12 PM ET)Bronze Members............June 2 (12 PM ET)General Public................June 4 (12 PM ET) A dedicated email with a unique cod...
Monochrome
For once, we are not going to talk about the launch of a new watch. Instead, we are going to talk about the premiere of a film – and a rather unique one at that. Czapek, An Unexpected Renaissance is something rarely seen in the watch industry: a 50-minute documentary filmed from the inside, retracing […]
SJX Watches
The Vacheron Constantin (VC) Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal Points” was one of the most talked about releases of Watches & Wonders — despite being a somewhat predictable, incremental upgrade to an existing model. The response is indicative of strong product/market fit and the transformative power of colour and texture. Initial thoughts By all accounts, the Overseas Ultra-Thin ref. 2500V should have been the talk of the VC booth at Watches & Wonders. The copper-dialled platinum edition recalls one of the most sought-after models in the Overseas canon, and introduced a new micro-rotor movement that feels destined to be a big part of the brand’s movement strategy going forward. But it was the Overseas Dual Time that seemed to get people talking, despite its predictability and the fact that it’s a much more incremental update to an existing model. In my view, there are three reasons for this. First and foremost, it’s a perfectly targeted product, aimed at a well of unmet demand that has been simmering since the the titanium Dual Time was first teased seven years ago. The high/low contrast between the industrial-haute horlogerie build quality and the sporty aesthetic is inherently appealing. In some ways it feels like the perfect watch for locales like Sun Valley or Davos — the dual-time functionality is purpose-built for vacations (and economic forums) and the colours and textures will pair well with Mammut or Patagonia. Second, all four editions — named for the ...
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.