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Results for Pilot Watch

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Pilot Watch

The aviation tool-watch genre. Cartier Santos (1904), the WWII B-Uhr, the French Type 20 flyback, the RAF Mark XI, the Breitling Navitimer.

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History of the Cartier Santos: the first pilot watch, and arguably the first proper wristwatch

Louis Cartier built it in 1904 for his aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, who was fed up fumbling for his pocket watch mid-flight. 121 years later the square case with exposed screws is still the sharpest dress-sports piece on the shelf. Here is how it got there.

Introducing - The PS Horology Tsuba 1720, Inspired by George Graham’s 18th-Century Watchmaking Monochrome
2 days ago

Introducing - The PS Horology Tsuba 1720, Inspired by George Graham’s 18th-Century Watchmaking

PS Horology is an independent Swiss watch brand founded in 2022 by Peter Speake, a watchmaker well-known to our readers. The Tsuba collection, an integrated-style sporty-chic watch named after the Japanese sword guard, was introduced in 2025 with the Tsuba Blue and Tsuba Dong Son, boasting a distinctive case design inspired by the symbolism of the […]

First Look: Glashütte Original Brings Murano Glass To The Senator Line Fratello
Glashütte Original Brings Murano Glass 2 days ago

First Look: Glashütte Original Brings Murano Glass To The Senator Line

People in the watch community constantly misunderstand aventurine. The sparkly, often dark blue substance used for watch dials isn’t a natural gemstone dug from the ground (though a natural quartzite stone later named aventurine also exists). Rather, it’s a product of accident and human ingenuity. The aventurine we typically see in watches dates back to […] Visit First Look: Glashütte Original Brings Murano Glass To The Senator Line to read the full article.

(Hands-On) Should Glashütte Original’s SeaQ Panorama Date Be The Diver’s Favourite? WatchAdvice
Glashütte Original s SeaQ Panorama Date 2 days ago

(Hands-On) Should Glashütte Original’s SeaQ Panorama Date Be The Diver’s Favourite?

Glashütte Original’s SeaQ is certainly a luxury dive watch, but how luxurious can a dive watch get? Let’s find out! What We Love: An extremely bold, tough build Incredible legibility Beautiful movement & open caseback What We Don’t: Mobile but hulking presence nonetheless Unidirectional bezel feels too tight Is there such thing as overkill? Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Of all the archetypes of German culture, perhaps none is as universally recognised as its knack for over-engineering. Everything from Mercedes-Benz to Mettbrötchen is carefully considered, measured and executed in a manner as precise as it is complex. It’s become so quintessentially German that it’s also an international stereotype, with the intricacies of the country’s industry worshipped just as readily as they are playfully mocked. One industry that constantly walks the line between precision and complexity is horology, where brands like Glashütte Original uphold the values of German watchmaking through their timepieces. Typically, this leans towards the artistic side of things, as seen in recent Senator releases like the Aventurine and Cherry Blossom models from the Atelierauftrag line. But that doesn’t mean Glashütte Original has forgotten its engineering identity – not by a long shot. Meet the Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date, the brand’s premier dive watch. A feature-laden, robust timepiece, you might be...

Direnzo Introduces their First GMT, the DRZ 08 Cosmonaire Worn & Wound
2 days ago

Direnzo Introduces their First GMT, the DRZ 08 Cosmonaire

As Direnzo heads toward their tenth anniversary next year, they’ve just introduced their very first GMT equipped watch, the DRZ 08 Cosmonaire. Inspired by the future oriented design of the Space Age, the Cosmonaire is, like virtually every GMT watch, conceived as a travel tool at heart, and through a variety of dial treatments really takes on different personalities depending on how it is executed. It’s filled with little details that are sure to be appreciated by enthusiasts as well, the type that might go unnoticed by the more casual observer.  Direnzo describes the case design of the Cosmonaire as having a “soft geometry,” which is highlighted by an elliptical bezel that is curved and thinner on the 3 and 9 o’clock sides than those at 12 and 6 o’clock. It gives the watch a subtly organic feel and aids in helping it achieve the desired flowing profile. It’s visually interesting and I think Direnzo deserves credit here for trying something genuinely different with a slightly higher degree of difficulty. According to the brand, they were going after a look that was reminiscent of industrial design in the 1960s and 1970s, and there’s definitely something about this watch that makes it feel like it would have been at home on the wrist of a NASA employee working Mission Control during that time period.  The dial is bowl shaped, which adds additional depth and visual complexity to the presentation, along with the applied hour markers and an engraved lume fill...

The IFL Watches × Laphont Bloc Limited Editions Aim For The Sky Fratello
3 days ago

The IFL Watches × Laphont Bloc Limited Editions Aim For The Sky

The colorful world of IFL Watches takes to the sky with three new Laphont Bloc Limited Editions. Each watch features a hand-painted dial inspired by the things that seem to float effortlessly during childhood. The concept may sound abstract, but the artwork makes it easy to understand. Rather than relying on technical flourishes, the collection […] Visit The IFL Watches × Laphont Bloc Limited Editions Aim For The Sky to read the full article.

Introducing - The Sleeker, More Compact and More Accessible Minase Mastercraft J3 Collection Monochrome
Minase 3 days ago

Introducing - The Sleeker, More Compact and More Accessible Minase Mastercraft J3 Collection

Minase is a Japanese microbrand specialising in complex watch cases with superlative handmade finishing. Based in Akita, Minase was founded in 2005 as a spin-off of Kyowa, a specialist manufacturer of watchmaking tools. Its portfolio of complex, multi-faceted, three-dimensional cases, featured in the Divido, Horizon and Windows collections, has attracted attention and appreciation beyond Japan’s […]

Roaring Through The Space Age With The Direnzo DRZ 08 Cosmonaire GMT Fratello
5 days ago

Roaring Through The Space Age With The Direnzo DRZ 08 Cosmonaire GMT

Direnzo introduces the DRZ 08 Cosmonaire as its first GMT watch. Conceived for travel, it pairs a second time zone with a distinctive case. The design, which includes an elliptical bezel and a layered dial, draws from the height of the Space Age and makes this watch feel equally ready for intercontinental travel and daily […] Visit Roaring Through The Space Age With The Direnzo DRZ 08 Cosmonaire GMT to read the full article.

Highlights: Colour-Coordinated Watches in Marteau & Co’s “The Blueprint” SJX Watches
Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur 5 days ago

Highlights: Colour-Coordinated Watches in Marteau & Co’s “The Blueprint”

Independent-friendly auction house Marteau & Co returns today for its second themed auction of the fall. Every watch in The Blueprint is, to varying extents, blue, or at least a blue-ish purple, and its flagship lot is an unusual example of a watch that laid the blueprint for much of today’s finishing-centric independent watchmaking. As always, Marteau & Co’s “maker’s fee” rewards the maker of the timepiece with 3% of the hammer price for each watch sold. This allows watchmakers to benefit from the appreciation of their past work, also known as the artist’s resale right, or droit de suite, a concept that’s been codified into law across Europe for fine art. This painting by Franco-Belgian artist Celine Lust accompanies a unique platinum Philippe Dufour simplicity with aventurine dial. Lot 4 – Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur Azur A last minute surprise-addition to the catalog, Futur Antérieur Azur the sky-blue debut of Louis Erard and Vianney Halter’s Futur Antérieur. A unique piece created for this auction, this continues Halter’s collaborative streak, homaging the landmark 1998 Antiqua. perpetual calendar. Rather than reproducing the original watch directly, the Futur Antérieur adapts many of its characteristic elements into a more compact and accessible format. The watch retains the asymmetrical display and layered construction that distinguished the original Antiqua. Hours and minutes can be seen through one porthole, and running seco...

Remember You Must Die: 12 Skull Watches to Keep Your Mortality in Check Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Laughing Skull Bell & 5 days ago

Remember You Must Die: 12 Skull Watches to Keep Your Mortality in Check

While the idea of a skull watch might sound like a kitschy Halloween-themed novelty, they actually run deep in horological history, dating back to pocket watches of the 17th century in the memento mori tradition of reminding you of your own mortality. However, these were not the skull dial timepieces we think of today but instead “form” watches that, like the name states, take a shape beyond a traditional round timekeeper. In the case of the skull form, they typically shared a similar blueprint with the jaw unhinged, exposing the dial on the underside or roof of the mouth. Today, we see many watchmakers continuing in this tradition, shifting away from form watches and extending the imagery to dial designs, some of which are achieved by simple painting while others more closely echo the form watches with sculptural elements – here are a dozen of them. Bell & Ross Laughing Skull Bell & Ross steps out of its aviation roots with a series of skull watches adopting the skull and crossbones motif also known as the Jolly Roger. Here, the brand takes its signature square watch case to lay the foundation for the design, which extends across the dial and bezel. The piece comes to life thanks to a mechanical jaw automaton that moves up and down to mimic laughter when you wind the watch. Bomberg Edge Skulls Mosaic For Bomberg, the skull motif is not just a one off for a special edition collection – its core imagery featured prominently across several of the brand’s major line...

The Third Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Collaboration is So Close, and Yet, So Far Worn & Wound
Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Collaboration 6 days ago

The Third Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Collaboration is So Close, and Yet, So Far

I’ll keep it simple: when someone says “Vianney Halter,” the first thing that comes to mind is the Antiqua. Okay, well, that assumes you are a watch nerd who knows who he is, but if you are, an image of this bizarre, visually challenging, yet brilliant watch should appear in your mind’s eye. A perpetual calendar spreads across three decentralized portholes with riveted frames that cut through the central body’s perimeter; it’s a relic from another dimension. It’s also a late-1990s design, predating the modern era of haute horology, making it a truly important artifact of independent watchmaking. And it’s ultra-rare, with a production of just over 100 units in total. All were in precious metal, and one recently set a record at auction, fetching over a million USD. This isn’t surprising, as Mr. Halter’s name has gained new relevance in the last couple of years through collaborative launches. At the last two Geneva Watch Days, watches bearing his name were likely the most talked-about launches. In 2025, he teamed with Behrens to release the KWH, an unexpected design with a peripheral “snake” time display that the brand continues to manufacture in different case materials. Though five-figure, it’s actually one of the more accessible Halters available. While unique and exciting, the KWH speaks to a wholly different aesthetic than the Antiqua, which is why this year’s GWD launch, the Bvlgari Octo Finnissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter, was so exciting....

Hermès Releases Blanc Chantilly And Bleu De Malte Versions Of The H08 Fratello
Hermes 6 days ago

Hermès Releases Blanc Chantilly And Bleu De Malte Versions Of The H08

When luxury house Hermès unveiled the H08 in 2021, many rolled their eyes. Watch enthusiasts said, “Stick to making bags,” and doubted the Parisian brand’s horological chops. And could you blame them? It was inevitable we’d question whether the maker of the world’s most coveted leather handbags could deliver a genuinely compelling sports watch. Yet […] Visit Hermès Releases Blanc Chantilly And Bleu De Malte Versions Of The H08 to read the full article.

First Look - Closer Than Ever to the Antiqua, the new Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Collab Monochrome
Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Collab 6 days ago

First Look - Closer Than Ever to the Antiqua, the new Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Collab

Geneva Watch Days is always a treat, but 2026 held two collaboration surprises for the MONOCHROME team, both involving maverick French watchmaker Vianney Halter. Bulgari’s collaboration with Vianney Halter produced a bold Antiqua-inspired Octo Finissimo Dual Time. The second, revealed to us as a sneak preview by Manuel Emch, was Louis Erard’s Futur Antérieur. Marking […]

Hands On: Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur SJX Watches
Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur 6 days ago

Hands On: Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur

Louis Erard has become adept at translating the design language of pricey independent watchmaking into affordable watches, and the best proof of that is the Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur. Modelled on the Vianney Halter Antiqua perpetual calendar, the Futur Anterieur is a regulator-style watch powered by two separate automatic movements. Named after Vianney Halter’s collection of steampunk watches, Futur Antérieur is Louis Erard’s third outing with the independent watchmaker, and is arguably a more sophisticated version of the preceding collaboration. While both share the same inspiration, the Futur Antérieur tangibly embodies the Antiqua, reproducing the feel of the original at a fraction of the price. Initial thoughts The Futur Antérieur is clearly an affordable watch that is not an Antiqua, but it is appealing. It captures the ambience of the Antiqua well. The shape is similar, and even the feel on the wrist. In this price segment this stands out as one of the more interesting offerings. Though this costs more than preceding collaboration editions, this is arguably better value. More broadly, the Futur Antérieur illustrates the growing sophistication of Louis Erard’s collaborations. They started as stock models with a new dial superimposed, while the Futur Anterieur is a new model conceived from the ground up. It’s also worth noting the details that replicate the Antiqua, like the chamfered edges on the case and bezel, and the stepped, two-to...

Stopping Time: Rare Rolex Chronos with Pucci Papaleo Provenance SJX Watches
Rolex Chronos 6 days ago

Stopping Time: Rare Rolex Chronos with Pucci Papaleo Provenance

This November, Phillips will present Stopping Time, a selection of 16 Rolex chronographs owned by collector and publisher Pucci Papaleo, as part of The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV, taking place on November 7 and 8 at the Hotel President Wilson. The selection is the first instalment of Mr Papaleo’s collection of approximately 70 Rolex chronographs, dating from the 1930s to the 1970s – and all in outstanding condition and some can even be rightly described as “unpolished”. Phillips presents these 16 watches as a compact survey of the Rolex chronograph: early pieces made before the Oyster chronograph was established, the waterproof chronographs of the 1940s and 1950s, and finally the Cosmograph Daytona. The Rolex ref. 6239 of about 1969 with the “Paul Newman Musketeer” dial, lot 22. Image – SJX composite/Phillips The publisher becomes a collector To say that Mr Papaleo loves vintage Rolex is an understatement — he even gave his children watch-inspired names. Besides building an impressive collection of vintage Rolex, Mr Papaleo contributed to horological knowledge as a publisher and has produced a number of reference books regularly cited in auction catalogues. Pucci Papaleo and his Rolex ref. 3233 being offered by Phillips. Image – SJX composite/Phillips His interest in watches grew out of his work in publishing. He began his career managing a small publishing house of his own, making guidebooks to Rome, Venice, and Milan, always with fine photographs. By hi...

In Partnership - Dialed In: Seiko Green Alpinist GMT Goes Global Hodinkee
Seiko Green Alpinist GMT Goes 6 days ago

In Partnership - Dialed In: Seiko Green Alpinist GMT Goes Global

When Seiko introduced its first dedicated sports watch, the Laurel Alpinist, in 1959, it was designed to provide reliable, legible timekeeping for outdoor enthusiasts amid Japan's postwar boom in activities such as hiking and skiing. The name "Laurel" paid homage to Seiko's first wristwatch, produced in Japan in 1913. Built to withstand harsh outdoor conditions, the watch featured an airtight screw-down case back to keep out dust and sand, wedge-shaped indices at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock for legibility, a 17-jewel hand-wound movement, and a leather strap pad to protect the case from sweat. In 1995, Seiko expanded the Alpinist's capabilities with an inner rotating compass ring, controlled by a second crown at four o'clock. Wearers could use the hour hand and the sun to determine cardinal directions, aligning the "S" marker halfway between the hour hand and 12 o'clock. The updated model also offered 20-bar water resistance, reinforcing its role as a robust field watch built for demanding use. Several design details introduced with the 1995 model remain central to the Alpinist today. Although it was offered in several dial colors, the distinctive green version became a lasting favorite. Green was an unconventional choice at the time, and Seiko initially expected the color to struggle commercially. Seiko introduced mechanical GMT models in 2023. While the blue and black versions (SPB377 and SPB379) launched globally, the coveted sunray green dial version was initially reserved ...

Farer Introduces the Stratton II Moonphase Worn & Wound
Farer Introduces Oct 29, 2026

Farer Introduces the Stratton II Moonphase

Maybe “trend” was always the wrong way to frame the watch industry’s collective obsession with stone dials? I don’t know about you, but I certainly feel like we might have reached a point where the stone dial is essentially just another colorway. Just as brands are expected to offer dials in blue, black, and white, perhaps we’ve reached that point where it should just be expected that they’ll offer an option (or several) in stone as well.  I like the look of a stone dial, but I admit I’m getting quite bored of seeing them invade my inbox on a daily basis. This is the perspective of a guy with a very particular view on all the stone dial action. I’m not a casual observer. I work in the industry and I see, at least to some extent, how the nuts and bolts of the business works, and at the moment brands are simply cashing in on an unprecedented interest in stone (and mother of pearl) dials. Stone dials were never actually “rare” but they felt special before this boom because they were so infrequently used. Access to these dials is now virtually unlimited and, presumably, pretty affordable. So the rush continues, to the point I think where it’s just a static part of our ecosystem.  And it’s that environment in which the newest member of the Farer Moonphase collection arrives. This is the Stratton II, the latest edition of what Farer says is their most popular moonphase model.  The centerpiece (literally) of the Stratton II is a new moonphase disc made ...

Fratello Talks: With Daniela Pusch Live From WatchTime Düsseldorf Fratello
Oct 29, 2026

Fratello Talks: With Daniela Pusch Live From WatchTime Düsseldorf

Watch fairs offer something online releases and product announcements can’t replicate — the chance to see watches in person, handle them, and talk directly to the people behind the brands. For enthusiasts, they can also be a great way to discover independent watchmakers and meet others who share the hobby. In this special on-location episode […] Visit Fratello Talks: With Daniela Pusch Live From WatchTime Düsseldorf to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo Hodinkee
Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo Oct 28, 2026

Hands-On: The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo

"The first two days, almost nobody came to see us. We were very anxious," Carlo Crocco, the founder of Hublot, tells us, casting his mind back to Baselworld in 1980, when he stood in a booth with a single window displaying a single gold-cased watch on a black rubber strap. "On the third day, we realised that everyone was speaking about us, because it was really something different from all the other watches." We are sitting together in Milan on the eve of the Classic Fusion Tributo launch, which Hublot presents as a return to that very first design. After spending time with it in the metal, I would argue the most interesting thing about it is how firmly it refuses to be a reissue. At a time when brands can reproduce their back catalogues down to a 3D-scanned dial, Hublot has presented an evolved expression of its first watch, combining it with a design language that's taken shape over four decades. That decision makes more sense when you consider where Hublot stands today and why this watch is arriving now. Since Julien Tornare took over as CEO in late 2024, the brand has been working through a deliberate reset, investing in its Nyon campus and its movement strategy and reworking the Big Bang twice this year, with Tornare signaling early on that a Classic Fusion built around the Italian elegance of its founder would follow. The two things Crocco focused on for the Tributo, the twelve screws and the black rubber strap, are precisely what make it read as the original at a gl...

First Look - The Girard-Perragaux Laureato Fifty Three Gold Bridges, with New Gold Accents Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux released Oct 28, 2026

First Look - The Girard-Perragaux Laureato Fifty Three Gold Bridges, with New Gold Accents

Girard-Perregaux released the Laureato collection in 1975 to meet the growing demand for integrated-style sports watches. Debuting just three years after the 1972 blueprint for the genre, it remains one of the earliest examples of a luxury sports watch. Following the classic time-and-date Laureato Fifty released to celebrate the watch’s 50th anniversary in 2025, Girard-Perregaux […]

Grand Seiko’s New SBGY045 Puts A Fresh Twist On The Beloved Omiwatari Fratello
Grand Seiko s New SBGY045 Puts Oct 28, 2026

Grand Seiko’s New SBGY045 Puts A Fresh Twist On The Beloved Omiwatari

Every time Grand Seiko drops a new limited edition, the watch-enthusiast community perks up. But today’s release feels different and, honestly, a lot more special. Grand Seiko has always maintained a close relationship with its fans. For years, the manufacturer has been building that connection through the GS9 Club, an official community for owners only. […] Visit Grand Seiko’s New SBGY045 Puts A Fresh Twist On The Beloved Omiwatari to read the full article.

Why I Bought My Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding You may Oct 28, 2026

Why I Bought My Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding

You may congratulate me on finally becoming an adult. I always thought things like getting married and buying a house were signs of adulthood. I was wrong. You’re only really a grown-up if you own a dress watch. The problem was that my mind and taste hadn’t matured enough to look for one. Once I […] Visit Why I Bought My Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding to read the full article.