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23,481 articles · 237 videos found · page 309 of 791

Hands-On: the Beaufort Pulsatimer Worn & Wound
Jun 18, 2024

Hands-On: the Beaufort Pulsatimer

So far 2024 is a year where brands have been belting out bombastic bangers of watches one after another. So, when a different take on a beloved complication is dropped, we naturally crane our necks to peek at what’s new. The first Swiss chronograph in New Zealand based Beaufort’s lineup highlights the old school idea of a doctor/medic’s watch with a pulsometer as the primary complication. It takes this complication and sets it inside a case and dial that are elegant, yet industrial, but some of the changes made to the chronograph functionality caused me to ask some questions.  The Beaufort Pulsatimer, upon quick inspection, might look like your average chrono, but the longer you linger over its construction, the more you’ll start to notice its unique styling. The case is almost totally brushed, with the exception of thinly polished chamfered edges and a polished inner bezel ring. The polished ring steps up from a brushed base bezel ring like the watch is laying its own foundation. And rising once more from the step bezel is a significantly raised box sapphire crystal. All this architecture pulls your eye into a dial that dramatically drops from the crystal with the sloped pulsometer chapter ring. Then we find a beautiful, vertically brushed copper-colored dial that Beaufort calls “Salmon.” They also have an all black, DLC coated version, a reverse panda black and silver dial, and an all silver dial version of the Pulsatimer. The architectural nuances of the ca...

Introducing: The New 38mm Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 With A Green Dial (Live Pictures) Fratello
Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 Jun 18, 2024

Introducing: The New 38mm Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 With A Green Dial (Live Pictures)

In February of 2022, Oris and Chronos, WatchTime’s sister publication, released a limited-edition watch together. The 38mm stainless steel Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 had a blue vignette dial. It was the first time the Divers Sixty-Five became available with the new movement in a 38mm case. But as there were only 200 made, it was […] Visit Introducing: The New 38mm Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 With A Green Dial (Live Pictures) to read the full article.

The Breitling SuperOcean Upgraded to 1,000 m SJX Watches
Breitling SuperOcean Upgraded Jun 16, 2024

The Breitling SuperOcean Upgraded to 1,000 m

Practically every brand with a significant offering of sports watches has a 1,000 m-or-deeper dive watch in its catalogue, and Breitling has one in its catalogue since 1983. The latest is the Superocean Automatic 46 Superdiver that features a titanium case water resistant to 1,000 m that also features a bezel-lock mechanism. Initial thoughts  Breitling redesigned the Superocean two years ago, giving its line of dive watches a modern aesthetic with subtle vintage-inspired elements, distinguishing it from the vintage remakes common in this segment. Superocean Superdiver retains the same styling, but in a larger, higher-spec format. For someone who likes the earlier Superocean but found it too small or 300 m too modest – this is it. As an aside, the camouflage-pattern dial is new for the Superocean line and feels unnecessary, though the pattern isn’t too obvious at a distance. Given Breitling’s regular cosmetic updates, a different dial style is likely on the cards. Though the priciest Superocean at US$6,300 on a strap, the Superdiver is still equipped with an ETA 2892. That’s adequate but not really competitive at this price point given the superior movements found in most competing watches. The black variant with its rubber strap More variety Having recently expanded three of its signature collections - Navitimer, AVI, and Avenger - Breitling now does the same for the Superocean, its longstanding line of dive watches. The current-generation Superocean draws ins...

Louis Vuitton Returns to the Escale Wristwatch SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Returns Jun 11, 2024

Louis Vuitton Returns to the Escale Wristwatch

Louis Vuitton is steadily rebuilding its watch collecting, reorienting the offerings towards more designs with thoughtful details and decoration. Having already redesigned the Tambour, the brand now debuts the Escale Time-Only Automatic. Returning to a case design that’s been in the Louis Vuitton catalogue for well over the decade, the new Escale is a no-frills three-hander with discreet references to the brand’s trunks incorporated into the aesthetic. Initial thoughts I’ve long been a fan of the Escale case – we covered the Escale Worldtime over a decade ago – because it is simple, distinctive, and wears well. The signature Escale models in the past, however, were world time models with extravagantly multicoloured dials. The aesthetic was typical, over-the-top Louis Vuitton. I liked them, a lot in fact, but they were not for everyone, and certainly not easily legible. The new Escale, on the other hand, is a practical watch that is legible but thoughtfully designed with discreet details that evoke Louis Vuitton’s trunks. It retains the same case but with a discreet, three-hand dial. Extravagant it is not, but it has wider appeal. Inside is the same LFT023 found in the Tambour, so movement-wise it has the same strengths and weaknesses. The movement is thin and attractively styled, but could do with more refined details, like the regulator index for instance. Though not perfect (or entirely in-house), the LFT023 compares well against the ETA 2892 found in the ori...

Hands-On With The New Louis Vuitton Escale Time-Only Automatic Fratello
Louis Vuitton Escale Time-Only Automatic Jun 11, 2024

Hands-On With The New Louis Vuitton Escale Time-Only Automatic

On the 10th anniversary of the Escale collection, Louis Vuitton introduces its new Escale Time-Only Automatic watch with caliber LFT023. Four new references are available, each with a 39mm case in rose gold or platinum and a leather strap. Louis Vuitton Escale Many of us, including yours truly, have been craving more new dress watches. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Louis Vuitton Escale Time-Only Automatic to read the full article.

Hot Take: The King Seiko SJE109, SJE111, SJE113, And SJE115 Fratello
Seiko SJE109 SJE111 SJE113 Jun 7, 2024

Hot Take: The King Seiko SJE109, SJE111, SJE113, And SJE115

When King Seiko watches returned to the scene a few years ago, they did so with the instantly recognizable KSK case shape. Of course, we always knew more shapes would follow at some point, and here they are! I am a big fan of the 2022 release, and the SPB281 was my daily watch for […] Visit Hot Take: The King Seiko SJE109, SJE111, SJE113, And SJE115 to read the full article.

The Fratello x Jacques Bianchi “Night Diver” Has Arrived, Complete with a Fully Lumed Dial Worn & Wound
Omega due Jun 6, 2024

The Fratello x Jacques Bianchi “Night Diver” Has Arrived, Complete with a Fully Lumed Dial

Jacques Bianchi Marseille has teamed up with Fratello Watches to create a new iteration of their already popular JB200 PoulPro. The new variant released today is now dubbed the JB200 PoulPro “Night Diver”, due to its new nocturnal layout consisting of a black PVD case and a fully lumed dial, both features being a first for Jacques Bianchi.  Fratello is known for creating high quality and entertaining watch enthusiast content, and more specifically their infatuation with the Speedmaster that started with their founders creation of the #speedytuesday hashtag. Fratello has even collaborated with Omega due to the hashtag’s marketing success, and they’ve since branched out to create watch collaborations with many other watch brands just like this new Jacques Bianchi release. The JB200 diver was only just reissued in 2021, and it garnered some outstanding success due to demand from vintage watch lovers who were quite fond of the original from the early 1980s. The new “Night Diver” variant seen here is similar in many ways to the reissue, maintaining the 42mm case and 13.3mm thickness, as well as a lug to lug of 47mm.  The JB200 is relatively well proportioned on the wrist, although it does have a slightly heftier appearance when comparing to the benchmark Rolex Submariner 124060 with a 12mm thickness. Much of the fit disadvantage is offset by the rest of the specs, especially the lug to lug measurement which can at times be more important than the actual case size....

Dads and Grads Sale 2024: Father’s Day Gift Guide Worn & Wound
Seiko SNE039 as Jun 5, 2024

Dads and Grads Sale 2024: Father’s Day Gift Guide

When it comes to watch collecting, sentimentality is king. Rarity, value retention, and specifications all matter, but it’s often the watch that was either given as a gift or passed down that stands the test of time. (Such is the case with yours truly, who received a Seiko SNE039 as a gift from his granddad ten years ago, which has kicked off a passion culminating in writing what you are reading at this very moment.) So as Father’s Day approaches and our DADS AND GRADS SALE is live, we thought we’d put together a gift guide for the dad, grandad, or father figure in your life. From durable watches and clocks and gear, to slick storage options, these should provide a great starting point and inspiration. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. When it comes to watch collecting, sentimentality is king. Rarity, value retention, and specifications all matter, but it’s often the watch that was either given as a gift or passed down that stands the test of time. (Such is the case with yours truly, who received a Seiko SNE039 as a gift from his granddad ten years ago, which has kicked off a passion culminating in writing what you are reading at this very moment.) So as Father’s Day approaches and our DADS AND GRADS SALE is live, we thought we’d put together a gift guide for the dad, grandad, or father figure in your lif...

It’s A Complicated MB&F; Kind Of Monday With The New LM Sequential Flyback Platinum Fratello
MB&F; Jun 3, 2024

It’s A Complicated MB&F; Kind Of Monday With The New LM Sequential Flyback Platinum

The chronograph that won the GPHG Aiguille d’Or two years ago is now available in platinum. Well, not exactly. The 33 pieces of the LM Sequential Flyback Platinum have an extra function compared to the prize-winning watch - a flyback function. On top of that, the chronograph comes in a different case. The sporty EVO […] Visit It’s A Complicated MB&F; Kind Of Monday With The New LM Sequential Flyback Platinum to read the full article.

Introducing: The Schofield Obscura - Adding Metallurgic Marvel To A Classic Shape Fratello
Schofield May 30, 2024

Introducing: The Schofield Obscura - Adding Metallurgic Marvel To A Classic Shape

For some of you, the bold case shape will be instantly recognizable as a Schofield creation. But while it is indeed symbolic of the brand, this is a very different product of Giles Ellis’s furtive imagination. Does it set the tone for what can be a stand-alone totem of a watch or a new line […] Visit Introducing: The Schofield Obscura - Adding Metallurgic Marvel To A Classic Shape to read the full article.

Bell & Ross Adds a Two-Tone Option to their Popular BR 03 Range Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Adds May 27, 2024

Bell & Ross Adds a Two-Tone Option to their Popular BR 03 Range

Bell & Ross is continuing to fill out their updated BR 03 collection with new references to accommodate the subtly smaller case they introduced last year. Brad Homes went hands-on with the new, more refined case right here, and found the differences to be small, but an overall improvement. It’s important not to underestimate either the scope of the change for Bell & Ross or the potential impact small adjustments can have on a watch case, particularly when you’re dealing with a square design like the BR 03. Bell & Ross fans (I’m raising my hand here) have strong feelings about their iconic square case designs, so any small adjustment is going to be met with the kind of intense critique that can only come from an enthusiast community. It seems, though, that the updates have been well received, and the latest addition, the BR 03 White Steel & Gold, brings a very different flavor to traditional tool watch design.  The stated goal of the White Steel & Gold reference is to bring a more sophisticated look to the BR 03 line, one that is, in Bell & Ross terms, “both urban and elegant.” While we still have the vague outline of an aviation inspired tool watch, the details come from an entirely different place. The bezel is rendered in rose gold, and the crisp opaline dial has matching gold tone accents. While the gold is likely the design characteristic that will draw most to the watch initially, the dial appears to have a very fine texture and character to it that could w...

The Seiko H601-8020: The Arnie’s Long-Lost Little Brother Worn & Wound
Seiko H601-8020 May 17, 2024

The Seiko H601-8020: The Arnie’s Long-Lost Little Brother

A wristwatch synonymous with biceps and AR-15s, Seiko’s H558-5009 “Arnie” continues to maintain its popularity in the watch collecting community today. Aside from its screen time in several Arnold Schwarzenegger films, its hefty 46mm case and rather sophisticated analogue-digital movement make the Arnie a unique and desirable timepiece. Other variations of the Arnie include the “Upside Down Arnie” H601-5480 and “Baby Arnie” H556-5029, both of which have their own following and are collectible in their own right. Unfortunately, their typically high price tags in today’s market make these variants fairly unobtainable to the everyday hobbyist looking for a fun weekend watch. However, the Seiko Sports line’s 1980s catalog is far more diverse than one might imagine, and within it exists the perfect alternative to the bulky Arnie and its cousins.  The H601-8020’s Inception and Design While Seiko’s history is well documented by the company and its dedicated fanbase, little information exists regarding the brand’s Sports SQ line. Their initial attempt at durable wristwatches came by way of the Seiko 5 line––starting in 1963 with the Sportsmatic 5––but the roots of SQ and Sports branding is a little less clear. Focusing only on the US market, it can be assumed SQ began appearing on dials somewhere in the mid 1970s and the Sports moniker (in this specific use) shortly after in the early 1980s. Of course, there are several variations of “sports” u...

Orient Introduces the Bambino 38 Small Seconds SJX Watches
Seiko 5 May 16, 2024

Orient Introduces the Bambino 38 Small Seconds

A budget-friendly dress watch, the Orient Bambino is robust and usually priced well below US$300, making it a good option for the entry-level or budget-minded watch enthusiast. Now, the Japanese watch brand added the Bambino 38 “Small Seconds” to the range. Offered in steel or a gold-plated finish, the new Bambino combines a compact case with a retro-style dial featuring a sub-seconds at six and Roman numerals.  Initial thoughts The Bambino in its many variants is a compelling value proposition, marrying good quality with an attractive design. It’s the Orient equivalent of the Seiko 5. The model’s past designs have been a mixed bag, while the new Small Seconds is a more cohesive design.  The latest iterations, particularly the silver dial, evoke 1930s watches with the railroad minute track and alternating baton-and-Roman markers. However, as is sometimes the case with vintage-inspired designs, this would benefit from revamping of the date, which is practical but gets in the way of the design. Aside from the cosmetic enhancements, the Bambino 38 Small Seconds retains the same in-house calibre as its predecessors, a no-frills movement that isn’t pretty but adequate given the model’s affordability. Retailing for US$344 for the steel models and a $24 hike for the gold-plated version, these remain commendable value propositions. A vintage-inspired dress watch The latest addition to the Bambino collection incorporates many elements from the existing models. It inhe...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Facelifts the Master Grande Tradition World-Timer SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin May 14, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Facelifts the Master Grande Tradition World-Timer

Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) unveils a new variant of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer, combining an 18k pink gold case with a domed, champlevé enamel dial depicting the Northern Hemisphere. As the name suggests, the watch features the cal. 948 with an orbital tourbillon that makes one revolution around the dial every 24 hours in conjunction with the map, mimicking the Earth’s orbit around the Sun. Dial and case metal aside, this is essentially identical to the white gold model released in 2022. Initial thoughts As a variation of an existing model, the new Calibre 948 World-Timer is not entirely novel. It is, however, a quite a stunning watch in both looks and mechanics. The enamel dial and pink gold case are in a rich, complementary colours, resulting in a striking, warm aesthetics. And the level of execution is also high, reflecting JLC’s strength in industrial-artisanal high-end watchmaking. That said, with JLC’s storied history, it feels like the brand can do more than rehash this tourbillon (and the Duometre as it did at Watches & Wonders earlier this year). The watchmaker’s watchmaker Sometimes known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker, JLC historically supplied calibres to many notable brands, including the “Holy Trinity” of Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin. As a result, it has a manufacturing know-how that is amongst the best in the mid- to high-end of Swiss watchmaking. A world-time orbital tourbillon with a champlev...

Hands On: Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque II SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronometre Souverain May 6, 2024

Hands On: Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque II

One of the most esoteric offerings in Only Watch 2024 is the Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque II. A follow-up to the first edition made in 2017, the Mosaïque II sticks to the same template that was originally inspired by a 19th century pocket watch with an inlaid case. It’s essentially an F.P. Journe Chronometre Souverain with a slightly larger case inlaid with semi-precious stones and a hinged hunter back. This also makes F.P. Journe the only brand with two watches – the other is the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu – in the upcoming charity auction that takes place on May 10, 2024. Initial thoughts I liked the original version because it was recognisable as an F.P. Journe watch, yet entirely different. The Mosaïque II holds the same appeal, albeit at a far higher price given the increased demand for F.P. Journe in the years since. While in 2017 one could reasonably hope to buy the first Mosaïque for a high five-figure price – in fact it sold for a trifling CHF90,000 – the Mosaïque II will almost certainly end up in the high six- or even seven figures. Affordability aside, the Mosaïque II is a little more interesting than its predecessor because of the floral motif as well as the materials; the bloodstone inlays are a particularly striking backdrop for the other stones. The inlays are also more complex, with both the dial and back inlaid with stones in a mix of shapes and sizes. A Geneva museum Located along a small street in Geneva’s Old Town is the Barbier-Mueller Mus...

Introducing the Baily, Farer’s New Moonphase with a Natural Aventurine Dial Worn & Wound
Farer s New Moonphase May 1, 2024

Introducing the Baily, Farer’s New Moonphase with a Natural Aventurine Dial

U.K. based Farer is a brand that marches to the beat of their own drum, or perhaps in horological terms, the beat of their own movements. From their case shapes, use of color, bronze crowns, and their wonderful lume applications, being different is at the heart of their charm. So why would their take on an aventurine dial be like all the others? This new special edition of their Moonphase collection is called the Baily and it is made from natural aventurine. While most aventurine dials are simply glass flecked with copper filings, these are natural semi-precious gemstones that have been painstakingly cut and polished into a dial that is just 1mm thick. The finished product has a distinctive speckle-patterned look and a smooth glossy surface unique to each watch. Further enhancing the Baily line, the moonphase discs are carefully hand painted in Switzerland and finished with yellow moons made from hand applied, textured Super-LumiNova, which mimics the lunar surface. No Farer would be complete without their signature touch of lume. Each Baily features applied Lumicast markers made from a blend of ceramic and Grade OL X1 Super-LumiNova. These are paired with polished lance style hands and a second hand with a white Farer “A” at its tip. Powering this piece is the hand-wound Sellita SW288-1 in Elaboré grade, which can be seen through the display caseback. It even has a date wheel that is color matched to the larger moonphase wheel, which is a slightly darker shade of gre...

Up Close: Patek Philippe Cloisonné World Time Ref. 605 HU DE “World Map” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Cloisonné World Time Ref Apr 30, 2024

Up Close: Patek Philippe Cloisonné World Time Ref. 605 HU DE “World Map”

One of the highlights this coming spring auction season in Geneva is prime example of a rare watch at Antiquorum. Consigned by the family of the original owner, the Patek Philippe World Time Cloisonné “World” ref. 605 HU DE in pink gold is both in fine condition and boasting a possibly unique combination of features, namely a pink gold case, a “world” motif cloisonné dial in unusual colours, and early “observatory” style hands. Produced for some three decades from about 1937 to the 1950s, the ref. 605 HU (short for heure universelles, or “universal time”) is a quintessential Louis Cottier-type world time; its wristwatch counterpart was the ref. 2523 HU. Just over 80 were made over the production run, with about two-thirds in yellow gold and the rest in pink gold. They were made by Louis Cottier in his Geneva workshop in an artisanal manner, explaining the variances across examples. Most were equipped with conventional metal dials, including rare examples in pink or black, but from the 1940s onwards, Patek Philippe began selling the ref. 605 HU with cloisonné enamel dials. Less than 20 were made with cloisonné dials, most depicting map motifs of some sort. A handful, maybe just two, featured figurative dials, including the ref. 605 HU in the Patek Philippe Museum with the Greek sea god Neptune on the dial (that Antiquorum sold in 1989). This example is rare for having a map of the entire world – only two others are known – as well as being in pink go...

Hands-On: The Nivada Grenchen F77 Lapis Lazuli Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen F77 Lapis Lazuli Nivada Apr 29, 2024

Hands-On: The Nivada Grenchen F77 Lapis Lazuli

Nivada Grenchen’s F77 was a big hit when it was released last year. With an integrated bracelet, 37mm case, and exposed-screw bezel, the F77 captured all the fun of 1970s sports watches. Even better, this was no mere homage: the watch has actual heritage street cred as a reissue of a model produced by Nivada Grenchen in 1977. Now, Nivada Grenchen has leaned even further into that 70s funk, with four new dials for the F77. I got to go hands-on with arguably the funkiest of the bunch: the F77 Lapis Lazuli. The F77 LL keeps all the specs that made the original a hit, but with a new dial crafted entirely from–as you may have guessed from the name–lapis lazuli. The other three dials in the new F77 releases are beautiful, with one dial featuring an ​​anthracite basket-weave pattern, another made of aventurine, and one limited-edition model in meteorite. But despite the attractiveness of the other models, the F77 Lapis Lazuli is the clear standout. The blue of the lapis is vibrant and eye-catching, while the speckled pattern evokes a starry night’s sky. And because it is made of stone, each lapis lazuli dial will be unique. Despite being something of a novelty in today’s market, the lapis lazuli dial is true to the 1970s vibe Nivada Grenchen is trying to capture in the watch. Stone dials had their moment back in that era, and lapis dials are particularly collectable. (Just look up the lapis Rolex Datejust that now sells for tens of thousands of dollars.) Fashion is ...

Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight: Our Guide to All the Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Apr 26, 2024

Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight: Our Guide to All the Watches

Tudor returned to the U.S. market after a lengthy absence in 2013 and the Rolex-owned brand had its first big hit in this modern era with the launch of the Black Bay (originally the Heritage Black Bay), a stylish, sporty divers’ watch, with a plethora of historical details drawn from Tudor dive watches of yore. In 2018, in response to growing consumer demand both for more modest case sizes and for greater period authenticity in vintage-style timepieces, Tudor introduced the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, which proved to hit the sweet spot for many contemporary enthusiasts. Named for the year 1958, in which Tudor released the Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7924, the most clear forerunner to the Black Bay, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight models match that watch’s 39mm case diameter, which is downsized from the 41mm-to-43mm sizes still common to the core Black Bay series. Since its launch, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight has become one of the most popular extensions of the expanding Black Bay collection, and has been the stage for Tudor’s recent (and historically rare) forays into the realm of precious metals. Descended From a Prince: Black Bay DNA The aesthetic origin of the Black Bay starts with the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, released in 1954, one year after big brother Rolex rolled out its own much more famous purpose-built dive watch, also called the Submariner. This original version, Ref. 7922, used the same “Mercedes” handset found on many Rolex models and was water-resistan...

eBay Finds: A Pair of Great Vintage Chronographs, a Cool Rodania in Original Condition, and Some Classic Seikos Worn & Wound
Seiko s eBay Finds Apr 26, 2024

eBay Finds: A Pair of Great Vintage Chronographs, a Cool Rodania in Original Condition, and Some Classic Seikos

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Seiko Bell-Matic Alarm Watch  The Seiko Bell-Matics are well known amongst collectors, however this model is one you don’t see very often. The uniquely styled case is a big ol’ cushion shaped chunk of steel, measuring 39mm wide. This example looks unpolished and has the original brushed finish. The bezel has a nice blue acrylic insert that looks really cool. The dial is a super dark blue, and is in great shape, with bold steel hands and a red seconds hand. The crown is at 3 o’clock, and the alarm button is recessed at 2 o’clock. The watch comes on the original broad link bracelet, which is always a bonus. The movement is clean and the seller states the watch runs and works properly.  View auction here Vintage Vantage Chronograph Here we have a gorgeous vintage Vantage chronograph, with a stunning reverse panda style dial. The steel case has a slim bezel and slim, straight lugs, giving it that “poor man’s Carrera” look. The black dial with dual silver subdials is really sweet, and in great shape with nicely aged lume. Really a simple, classic chronograph that has a timeless design. The watch is powered by the workhorse Valjoux 7730, which is clean and recently serviced ...

Cédric Johner Reimagines the Louis Erard Le Régulateur SJX Watches
Louis Erard Le Régulateur Independent watchmaker Apr 25, 2024

Cédric Johner Reimagines the Louis Erard Le Régulateur

Independent watchmaker Cédric Johner has joined forces with Louis Erard in a collaborative effort that has given birth to the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner. This regulator-style watch pays homage to Mr Johner’s signature Abyss case with its distinctive, hexagonal dial opening. And unlike other collaboration editions that were mostly design exercises, Mr Johner himself worked on each of these watches by decorating every rotor with his signature bead motif. Initial thoughts  In contrast to the whimsical and striking Konstantin Chaykin and Alain Silberstein collaborations, the latest Le Régulateur has a more classical design but still manages to be different with its octagonal dial and crystal. Even though it is a round watch case, it doesn’t really seem so as a result of the crystal. And it is a homage to Mr Johner’s work in more ways than just aesthetics, as Mr Johner himself offered an Abyss regulator model back in the day. Interestingly, the restyled case arguably works better with the relatively chunky proportions of the Le Régulateur case, the dimensions of which also evokes the original Abyss that was also a solidly built shape. Reasonably priced at CHF4,000 (on par with last year’s Chaykin Time-Eater), this will appeal to collectors seeking more classical look while still having a little of the unique character of an independent watchmaker. Cédric Johner A more traditional-styled regulator A once successful watchmaker who then lost his brand...

Hands-On: the Peren Regia and Regia X Worn & Wound
Apr 16, 2024

Hands-On: the Peren Regia and Regia X

Close your eyes and picture a watch. It probably has three hands and a round case. Watches come in all shapes and with any number of hands, but for the most part, they stick to these two staples. In fact, these standards are so expected that we don’t even discuss them. Never have I written a review that noted a watch having a round case or the number of hands unless it was a GMT. For the average person, the visual likely stops with a round case and three hands, but your enthusiast-driven imagination probably dug deeper to include a dial. But even with all the variety and possibilities a dial can hold, we again have a few design staples that aren’t often deviated from. Indices are usually some sort of circle, triangle or square. Date windows, if they exist, are probably found at the 3:00, the 6:00, or maybe even placed at 4:30 if brands feel tempted to be more divisive than your Uncle Dan when he brings up politics at Thanksgiving dinner. I often find myself torn between loving these staples of design, while craving watches that dare deviate from them. There is a strong argument to be made not to deviate. Tried and true designs have reserved admiration in our hearts, and sometimes deviating can just look plain wrong. Shoot for the moon and you’ll land among the stars makes for a wonderful motivational poster to hang on a classroom wall. But when it comes to watches, shooting for the moon can land you with unsold inventory and shockingly harsh comments on your social m...

Introducing - The New And Limited Piaget Polo Date 150th Anniversary Editions Monochrome
Piaget Polo Date 150th Anniversary Apr 12, 2024

Introducing - The New And Limited Piaget Polo Date 150th Anniversary Editions

Yves G. Piaget, the fourth generation of the Piaget watchmaking and jewellery dynasty, launched the sporty-chic Polo watch in 1979. With its ultra-thin gold case and sleek bracelet decorated with horizontal gadroons, the Polo captured the era’s zeitgeist to become a massive hit. In 2016, Piaget gave the Polo a complete makeover, transforming it into […]