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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

Recommended Reading: "Bubble Backs" By Masahiro Endo Is An Education On The Original Rolex Collectors' Watch Hodinkee
Rolex Collectors Watch If you've Sep 10, 2026

Recommended Reading: "Bubble Backs" By Masahiro Endo Is An Education On The Original Rolex Collectors' Watch

If you've never collected Rolex Bubblebacks before, you should probably forget nearly everything you know about vintage watches. At least, that's what it feels like you should do when you start wading into the space. Things like reference numbers are much less valuable to remember than movements, case designs, printing details, and a general ability to just remember everything you've seen to get a sense of feel for what is right and what isn't. And trust me, a lot isn't. You could spend decades looking at these watches, but "Bubble Back" by Masahiro Endo, the owner of vintage retailer Private Eyes in Tokyo, is a great reference to jump-start your understanding of an iconic (and currently underappreciated) model. I mentioned this in last week's review of John Nagayama's "96," but the only watch I'd be more afraid to deep-dive into than the Patek ref. 96 is the Rolex "Bubbleback." It's not even an official model, but a nickname for Rolex watches made from 1933 to the mid-1950s with a domed, "bubble-like" caseback. So when you open Endo-san's book, you'll probably immediately be struck by the fact that none of the examples (except the later ref. 6062 and ref. 8171) have reference numbers. According to collectors, that's not the most useful thing for understanding the Bubbleback. Basically, every other detail matters more. We've previously published a story about the bubbleback with a lot of thoughts and tips for understanding these models, courtesy of Ken Jacobs and Justin Gr...

Hands-On Impressions of the New M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese Worn & Wound
MB&F; Sep 9, 2026

Hands-On Impressions of the New M.A.D.Editions M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese

One of the splashiest Geneva Watch Days releases this year was the all new M.A.D.3, the latest entry in the ongoing series from M.A.D.Editions, the popular MB&F; spinoff. You’re probably pretty familiar with the M.A.D. project at this point, but just in case you’re stumbling onto it here for the first time, a brief primer.  Coming from many of the same people behind MB&F;, M.A.D.Editions was originally conceived as a way for brand founder Max Busser to thank his many longtime collaborators with an affordable watch that kept to the same avant-garde spirit of the high end luxury watches MB&F; has been making for years. That first watch was, apparently, not intended to ever be made widely available, a story that is perhaps apocryphal given the incredible success of the project across several release cycles. M.A.D.Editions is now a full fledged microbrand, with watches made available via highly competitive raffles on a regular basis. The brand has pledged to keep their watches affordable, relatively speaking, even as the overall quality of the pieces has been leveled up since the first watches appeared (they have moved to Swiss movements, and the finishing is noticeably nicer on newer watches, including the M.A.D.2 introduced last year).  The new M.A.D.3 leans deeper into an idea we saw with the M.A.D.2, which is to make these watches a genuine collaboration with a friend of the brand. That watch was designed by Eric Giroud, a longtime MB&F; collaborator and one of the more ...

Czapek returns to its Geneva roots with two very different shades of blue Time+Tide
Czapek returns Sep 9, 2026

Czapek returns to its Geneva roots with two very different shades of blue

Czapek celebrated its new flagship at Quai des Bergues 27 by releasing two limited editions during Geneva Watch Days 2026. The Quai des Bergues Midnight in Geneva pairs a 40.5mm steel case with a dark blue aventurine dial and Czapek’s seven-day, manually wound Calibre SXH1. The Place Vendôme Complicité Glacier Blue places its open-worked double-escapement … Continued

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport Hands-On Review: A Bigger, Sportier Carrera WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport Hands-On Sep 7, 2026

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport Hands-On Review: A Bigger, Sportier Carrera

TAG Heuer has just unveiled the new Carrera Chronograph Sport, staying true to the model’s DNA, but in a more beefed-up fashion! What We Love The classic Carrera case shape is still immediately recognisable The move to 42mm makes the Carrera Sport much more wearable than the previous generation The green dial and silver dial variants look particularly good in person What We Don’t At 42mm, it is still a reasonably substantial watch The more robust design won’t have the same versatility as the 39mm Carrera Glass Box The blue dial and black dial models are not as eye-catching Overall Rating: 8.5 / 10 Value For Money: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The TAG Heuer Carrera has never really needed an introduction. It has been one of the defining chronographs in the TAG Heuer collection since Jack Heuer introduced it in 1963, and over the years I’ve had the chance to wear and review plenty of different versions. Now, with the new Carrera Chronograph Sport, (just in time for the Madrid Grand Prix, as TAG Heuer is the race sponsor, I might add), TAG Heuer has taken the familiar Carrera formula and given it a little more presence, a sportier feel and, importantly, some better proportions. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport models As you may imagine, this is not my first time wearing a TAG Heuer Carrera. I’ve reviewed plenty of Carreras over the years, from the revamped Glass Box models introduced in 2023 through to the Rose Gold Carrera ...

Introducing: The New 37.5mm A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down Limited Edition (Live Pics) Hodinkee
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 4, 2026

Introducing: The New 37.5mm A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down Limited Edition (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, alongside a new variation of the technical powerhouse that is the brand's Triple Split chronograph, A. Lange & Söhne introduces a pair of limited-edition 1815 Up/Down references. The new models with blue dials offer not only a new livery but also another compelling proposition for collectors—a smaller case size. The new limited-edition 1815 Up/Down features a return to smaller proportions with a 37.5mm diameter case, smaller than the standard-production 39mm 1815 Up/Down models in the brand's current collection. It isn't the first 1815 Up/Down in 37.5mm; an earlier 1815 Up/Down "Homage to Walter Lange" limited edition took the crown in that regard. But between the first generation's 35.9mm case and the second generation's 39mm case, this diameter right in between is a nice welcome back. Thickness remains unchanged at 8.7 mm. This new blue dial offers eye-catching contrasting subdials, which show off the metallic texture of the base 925 silver dial with snailing underneath the printed scales of the power reserve (AUF/AB, translated to Up/Down) and the small seconds track on the right. Seen on the dial is Lange's signature design traits of the pocket watch-inspired 1815 collection, with a railroad minutes track on the periphery and Arabic hour numerals. Despite the downsizing of the dial, proportions remain generally the same, with none of the hour numerals cut off by the subdials. Offered in white or pink gold, the cases are accompanied by matching go...

A Comeback for the Lange 1815 Up/Down SJX Watches
Sep 4, 2026

A Comeback for the Lange 1815 Up/Down

A. Lange & Söhne’s mid-sized 1815 Up/Down is reincarnated as a dark blue panda 300-piece limited edition in a slender, 37.5 mm case. More faithful than usual to the Glashütte watchmaking tradition, inside and out, the 1815 Up/Down has a lot to offer for an “entry-level” Lange, if ever there was such a thing. Initial Thoughts The dial’s layout is inspired by the most common location for a up/down indicator on a pocket watch, at 12 o’clock, while the running seconds sits in a small sundial at six o’clock. But when a hunter-type movement is packaged into an open face case the up/down indicator moves to nine o’clock and the seconds to three o’clock, as was the case for many deck watches made by the first A. Lange & Söhne company during the Second World War, which is a very handsome dial layout. The lack of up and down, F and E, haut et bas, or, in this case, AB und AUF, on modern power reserve indicators is a pet peeve of mine, and one of the many things Lange does right. Another is two tone dials, the Datograph, especially the sleeker Datograph Up/Down, is one of the best-looking watches out there, and this look quite similar. That, combined with the smaller 37.5 mm case size (down from 39 mm) makes this 1815 Up/Down quite different from its past lives. For me, it is certainly more up than down, with the best-looking dial and a contemporary mid-sized case, so making it a limited edition of 300 pieces in each colourway is disappointing. Another letdown: I pr...

Sunset On The Wrist: The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Dusk Fratello
Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Dusk There Sep 4, 2026

Sunset On The Wrist: The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Dusk

There is something slightly dangerous about the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon. The recipe sounds almost too typical of high horology — a 40mm round case, manual winding, an annual calendar, moon phases, and a dial with Roman numerals. On paper, it could easily disappear into the enormous category of beautiful, traditional watches. In the metal, […] Visit Sunset On The Wrist: The Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Dusk to read the full article.

Introducing: The Baltic Aquascaphe GMT MK-II Hodinkee
Baltic Aquascaphe GMT MK-II What Sep 3, 2026

Introducing: The Baltic Aquascaphe GMT MK-II

What We Know Last year, we covered Baltic's relaunch of the Aquascaphe, their vintage-leaning traditional-style diver (not to be confused with their dual-crown version). That release came in several colors and two sizes. Now they're relaunching the Aquascaphe GMT as a new Mark II version. While the aesthetic changes are more subtle than on the diver, the changes under the hood are more substantial. The Aquascaphe GMT MK-II has a subtly redesigned case profile (39.5mm by 13.8mm, 316L stainless steel, with a 47mm lug-to-lug), with the most distinguishing feature being the new crown guards that make the case distinctly more modern. The rest of the case has been reworked (it is 0.5mm wider and 0.8mm thicker), with vertical brushing on the lugs and 200m water resistance. The watch still has a luminous 24-click GMT sapphire bidirectional bezel. The caseback engraving (which we've posted a picture of later in the story), on the other hand, is simplified from the globe design on the first version. What used to be three color variants is now four, all with glossy black dials and Super-LumiNova BGW9. One has a blue-and-light-blue bezel with light-blue dial text and a GMT hand. Another is a "Pepsi" style with red accents. The third has a blue-and-green bezel, and the last, the newest, is black and grey with orange accents. The hands and indices are a bit bolder and rounder. Inside the case, the brand has changed to a "flyer" Miyota 9075 GMT movement with a 42-hour power reserve. The ...

The Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Returns SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Returns Having Sep 3, 2026

The Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Returns

Having remade – and refined – its first-ever wristwatch, Louis Vuitton now does the same for the second. The Monterey Ceramic is a reimagining of the LV II of 1988, preserving the Gae Aulenti-designed case and dial but in modern, high-end materials and execution. As with the earlier Monterey in 18k gold, the new model in ceramic does away with the quartz movement of the 1988 original and replaces it with an in-house automatic calibre. The case has been scaled up a little to accommodate the calibre, but retains the proportions and quirky form of the original. But unlike last year’s model, the Monterey Ceramic is regular production. Initial thoughts The Monterey Ceramic is basically a more affordable iteration of last year’s limited edition in 18k gold. It retains the same design, movement, but replaces gold with ceramic (and steel), and the fired enamel dial with a lacquered one. Even with these changes, the Monterey Ceramic is still a far more sophisticated watch than its 1988 inspiration. I like the styling of the 1988 originals, and the modern-day reissues both manage to capture the look and feel of the originals. The Monterey Ceramic in particular sticks to the case diameter of the original, albeit a little thicker, but sticks closely enough to the proportions of the LV II. The Monterey Ceramic is priced like a modern-day luxury watch, but it has the intrinsic features to justify the price. The Monterey Ceramic costs €19,000 before taxes, which is less than a ...

A Ceramic Makeover For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton - An Alpine Limited Edition Fratello
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Sep 2, 2026

A Ceramic Makeover For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton - An Alpine Limited Edition

There is something particularly Moser about taking a watch already built around an absurd amount of visible mechanics and deciding that what it really needs is a ceramic case. Today, I’m taking a look at the new H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition. It’s the third project born from the […] Visit A Ceramic Makeover For The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton — An Alpine Limited Edition to read the full article.