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Results for Tourbillon

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Flying Tourbillon

Alfred Helwig's 1920 tourbillon variant with no upper bridge; the entire cage is visible.

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Tourbillon

Breguet's 1801 rotating-cage escapement, explained.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Tourbillon “Onyx” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Oct 5, 2022

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Tourbillon “Onyx”

Despite a rocky reception when Audemars Piguet debuted the line in 2019, the Code 11.59 collection is gaining traction, especially after several facelifts that bestowed smoked dials, two-tone cases, as well as open-worked movements on the line. Continuing the evolution – and improvement – is the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon that combines white gold and black ceramic in a novel two-tone case. More striking is the unexpected simplicity of the dial, which is a polished expanse of onyx stone, resulting in the most striking version of the model to date. Initial thoughts Since the launch of the collection, most Code 11.59 model have been redesigned in a manner that is somewhat formulaic, though the results have been attractive. The makeovers usually involved brighter dial colours or new materials, like the recent Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon that got an aventurine glass dial. In comparison, the latest redesign is a surprise that proves less is more. Stark and minimalist yet far from plain, the onyx dial easily sets the watch apart from its peers in the collection. It does that by streamlining the dial, even removing the Arabic numerals that are a signature element of the Code 11.59. Aside from the onyx dial, I also like the smart application of coloured accents. Though it is mainly in silver and black, it has just the right amount of rose gold details in just the right places to give it warmth and a bit of a vintage feel. And the black is also smartly utilised...

The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT makes the case The Hulk should be the next Marvel collab Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Sep 28, 2022

The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT makes the case The Hulk should be the next Marvel collab

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Panther Limited Edition may have been divisive, but it was an irrefutable success for the brand. The Royal Oak Concept line is a playground for Audemars Piguet to push the boundaries of their design and development, where beyond the sky is the limit. Recently AP has proved this … ContinuedThe post The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT makes the case The Hulk should be the next Marvel collab appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Sep 28, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue

It’s been six years since Bucherer inaugurated Bucherer Blue, a line of special-edition watches made specifically for the Swiss retailer by watchmakers ranging from Tudor to Audemars Piguet. Dressed in the Bucherer’s corporate colour of dark blue, the Bucherer Blue collection has become one of the retailer’s defining qualities. The latest to join the collection is a sports watch from H. Moser & Cie., the Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue, which features a flying tourbillon on a smoked grey dial framed by a ring of blue sapphires. Initial thoughts Visually simple in the typical Moser style but far from plain, the Streamliner Tourbillon is an attractive watch to begin with. It retains the no-frills look of a sports watch yet while managing to dial up the technical features with a double-hairspring flying tourbillon at six o’clock. The Bucherer Blue edition takes the idea of contrasting simplicity and complexity further with a gem-set bezel that certainly adds sparkle without taking away from the clean lines of the Streamliner. At a distance the bezel might evoke the coloured bezel inserts that are common in sports watches, though up close it is undeniably bling. But the gems blend well into the design as the uniform colour of the stones and graduated, geometric pattern they form both suit the Streamliner aesthetic perfectly. And the dial is a restrained, pale grey – naturally in Moser’s trademark smoked finish – that doesn’t compete with the sapphires...

Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Is A Tourbillon Really A Complication? Quill & Pad
Sep 22, 2022

Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Is A Tourbillon Really A Complication?

The best thing about these six GPHG 2022 Ladies’ Complication watches is the variety of complications. Yes, we still have two traditional tourbillons, but the other four complications are anything but traditional. But, our panel asks, why are the tourbillons for ladies not competing in the main tourbillon category?

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Sep 22, 2022

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue

As one of the world’s biggest watch retailers, Bucherer has long enjoyed unique relationships with leading watchmakers. Starting in 2016, Bucherer commissioned a series of special editions from a diversity of brands, including the well-known Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue. Girard-Perregaux (GP) is the latest marque to create a special run for the Swiss retailer with the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue. This variant of GP’s trademark complication once again is inspired by the retailer’s corporate colour: instead of a flat black in the standard version of the watch, the titanium bridges of the movement are highlighted in dark blue. Initial thoughts As with most of the Bucherer’s other editions, the new Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges is a change in livery, but one that transforms the feel of the watch. Going from a muted black to a vibrant blue is a simple tweak, but one that adds to the visual appeal by making the architecture of the movement more apparent. The blue treatment makes the bridges stand out and emphasise their graceful, arched form, a quality that is less obvious in the standard version because of its near-monochromatic finish. The standard version with its black bridges All that makes for a contemporary look that’s more striking, a perfect fit for a calibre that’s essentially an ultra-modern take on a concept dating to 1860. At the same time, the modern yet restrained aesthetic is appropriate given Bucherer’s status as ...

Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon: Featuring A Flying Tourbillon Orbited By ‘Vortex’ Display Disks And A Joystick Controlling Time – Reprise Quill & Pad
Vanguart Sep 11, 2022

Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon: Featuring A Flying Tourbillon Orbited By ‘Vortex’ Display Disks And A Joystick Controlling Time – Reprise

The Vanguart Black Hole Tourbillon concept is based on the concept of a black hole, a region of spacetime where gravity is so strong that nothing can escape, even light. While that and the levitating flying tourbillon that emerges from the center of this watch might be enough to wow anyone, there's still more: a joystick that controls the direction of time and this watch's great looks.

Franck Muller Unveils the Fully Gem-Set Vanguard Revolution 3 Tourbillon SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Sep 5, 2022

Franck Muller Unveils the Fully Gem-Set Vanguard Revolution 3 Tourbillon

As Cortina Watch celebrates its Golden Jubilee this year, it has progressively rolled out a series of commemorative editions, including a pair from Patek Philippe in the form of a unique Dome Clock (that’s unfortunately not for sale) and a special Calatrava ref. 5057G (that fortunately is). Now the Singapore retailer has taken the covers off its most extravagant anniversary edition yet, the Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary. The anniversary lineup is made up of five unique versions of Franck Muller’s triple-axis tourbillon wristwatch, each set with 28.4 carats of baguette-cut gemstones. One of the five watches is complete – the others are still being put together – and is on display at an exhibition in Singapore taking place from now till September 13, 2022. The diamond-set version with a rainbow-finished movement that’s now on show in Singapore Initial thoughts Franck Muller is one of the leading practitioners of lavishly-jewelled complicated watches, while Cortina Watch has long been a champion of high-jewellery watches, so the anniversary Vanguard tourbillons make sense both ways. While the large-format bling has a niche appeal, the Vanguard Revolution 3 movement is interesting in itself. In fact, the movement is quintessentially Franck Muller in how it highlights the tourbillon. Here the tourbillon regulator is less about mechanics than visual spectacle. Not only does the tourbillon twi-axial and spherical, it also ...

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Aug 26, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack

Debuted just two years ago, the Streamliner was Moser’s first try at an integrated-bracelet sports watch and it was a success. With its distinctive case and bracelet, the Streamliner is very much a watch that caters to the tastes of today, which has unsurprisingly made it the brand’s bestseller. The latest in the line up, however, is a change in tone. With a dial that’s minimalist as usual, the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack is unabashedly extravagant in 18k red gold from end to end, putting it in stark contrast with the uniformly steel Streamliners that came before. Initial thoughts The best part of the latest Streamliner is its design, which manages to blend several elements in a coherent manner: luxury, mechanical complexity, and of course simplicity. With this new launch, the Streamliner is finally available in gold. While all past models were in steel, the Streamliner Tourbillon is surprisingly attractive despite being so different. In fact, the case and bracelet are arguably made even more compelling in precious metal, since the material lends the watch both heft and elegance, while the glow of the rosy metal brings out the surface finish. In contrast to the extravagant case and bracelet, the dial is spare and contrasts well against the gold case. Coated in Vantablack, an ultra-black substance, the dial is sparsely furnished with plain hour markers and no minute track, making it the simplest amongst the Streamliner collection. That said, the rounded hands a...

Up Close: Franc Vila FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero SJX Watches
Aug 18, 2022

Up Close: Franc Vila FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero

Short for “Franc Vila Founder”, FVF is a tale of redemption. Founded by the namesake designer, FVF is the second act of the Spanish watch designer, one he embarked on after his first went off the rails as many independent watch brands tend to do. FVF’s inaugural watch is the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. It’s an original look and at a glance there’s nothing linking it to the creations of the original Franc Vila brand – a good thing in my estimation. But look closely and hints of the earlier designs emerge. Most importantly the FVF1 reveals itself as an impressively executed watch – the movement has an interesting construction, excellent finishing, and an original aesthetic. Mr Vila has made his comeback in style. NB: The watch pictured is a prototype that’s been worn so it shows wear. The FVF1 has a flying tourbillon, roller day indicator, day and night display, and a 100-hour power reserve Rising from the ashes Born in Valencia but now a longtime resident of Switzerland, Mr Vila founded his namesake brand in 2005 and rode the wave that buoyed modern, flamboyant independent watchmaking for the next decade or so. Propelled by Mr Vila’s convivial personality, Franc Vila became one of the hot brands of the era. During those heady days, it could sell several dozen tourbillons and minute repeaters a year, making it one of the top clients of now-defunct complications specialist BNB Concept. A classic from the original Franc Vila brand, the Tourbillon Planèta...

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon “Cortina Watch” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Aug 8, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon “Cortina Watch”

A great deal of meaning is placed on anniversaries in watchmaking and Cortina Watch is celebrating its Golden Jubilee in 2022 with a slew of limited edition watches and a very special clock. The latest timepiece for the Singapore retailer’s milestone anniversary is the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”. A variant of the Endeavour tourbillon, this 10-piece limited edition watch features the brand’s signature fumé dial in blue, along with a one-minute flying tourbillon equipped with an uncommon cylindrical hairspring.  Initial thoughts The watch combines the elegant and minimal design typical of Moser with the more contemporary that results from the cleanly open-worked movement. And despite being based on an existing model that was just introduced in March of this year, the Cortina edition is still impressive, largely thanks to the skeletonised movement. The cylindrical hairspring maybe be an anachronistic novelty rather than a practical innovation, but one that is rare in modern watchmaking, visually interesting, and historically significant, being rooted in 19th century marine chronometers. Moser aesthetics At 42 mm in diameter, the Cortina edition has the same dimensions as the standard model in white gold. In contrast, the Cortina version is in 18k red gold. Time is indicated on a domed sub-dial at 12 o’clock with the graduated “Funky Blue” finish that is synonymous with Moser. But unlike most othe...

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Jul 5, 2022

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture

Greubel Forsey’s house style is often contemporary in design but traditional in decoration and construction, an approach best embodied by its watches with an open-worked movement for the dial. Now the brand has reimagined its usually classical movement aesthetic and combined it with a sleek and sharp case to create the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. While the Architecture is fundamentally an iteration of the brand’s fastest-rotating and inclined tourbillon, it is powered by an all-new movement with swooping bridges and satisfyingly sharp lines. And the new calibre is contained within a sleek titanium case with an integrated strap, one no doubt inspired by its bestselling sports watches. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the watch, my instinctive reaction was that it lived up to the name – it is impressive and architectural. I like the complex forms within the movement, which creates immense depth while also being slightly organic thanks to the curved, polished bridges. And the streamlined case is impressively detailed, especially on its flanks and edges. In fact, the Architecture is a major step forward over its predecessors in terms of architecture, no pun intend, in how it creates a strikingly more modern aesthetic for the movement while preserving the signature Greubel Forsey elements like the enormous bridge for the canon pinion that holds the hands or the jewels in chatons. One ingredient of its successful architecture is the shrewd and genero...

Behind The Lens: Beat Haldimann H1 Flying Central Tourbillon – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jun 25, 2022

Behind The Lens: Beat Haldimann H1 Flying Central Tourbillon – Reprise

In GaryG's view, every successful independent watchmaker has elements of a “house style” that may attract some buyers and put off others, but nonetheless set them apart. And, at the highest level, this style goes beyond “branding” to become an expression of the personality and artistic vision of the creator. Beat Haldimann and his small team distinguish themselves by focusing on technical virtuosity of the highest order as typified by the Haldimann H1 Flying Central Tourbillon.

INTRODUCING: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “AMG ONE OWNERS” Time+Tide
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Jun 17, 2022

INTRODUCING: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “AMG ONE OWNERS”

If you’ve ever been catching some public transport and spotted someone wearing a six-figure luxury watch, you know the feeling of seeing something extraordinary in an ordinary context. The Mercedes-AMG ONE is possibly the most extreme example of this concept - a hypercar using Formula 1 technology to achieve over 1000 horsepower in a street-legal … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “AMG ONE OWNERS” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces May 20, 2022

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross

Having recently launched the second of its models designed by Takashi Murakami, Hublot returns with a collaboration with an another artist, British fashion designer Samuel Ross. The result is the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross, a watch that is very different from the rest of the lineup, thanks to the open-worked honeycomb pattern applied across the watch. Initial thoughts The design of the Samuel Ross is unexpected and most notable for being a significant evolution of the Big Bang. While Hublot’s signature model was criticised in the past for being too reminiscent of a Royal Oak, the Samuel Ross is its own watch. It’s no doubt an acquired taste, but it is different. But for anyone who likes big, bold watches that are complicated – and look the part – this is mission accomplished. The extensive use of the honeycomb grid as well as orange rubber give it an aggressive look that sets it apart from other Big Bang Tourbillons. The bezel, for instance, isn’t the usual round affair but is instead an elongated octagon. More prominent is the extension of the honeycomb grid to the edge of the case, leaving the orange rubber to trace the outline of case, evoking a watch worn on a “Bund” strap, which enhances the sporty appearance. It’s through limited editions like the Samuel Ross that demonstrates ones of its key strengths, it versatile manufacturing prowess. The brand’s in-house expertise in engineering and production means an ability to make a great variety of ...

INTRODUCING: It’s chime time with the Moser Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Time+Tide
May 18, 2022

INTRODUCING: It’s chime time with the Moser Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon

Maybe it’s just me, but recently there seems to be a common thread amongst high-end watchmakers. Multiple releases have come out making use of that much loved melodious complication, the minute repeater (I must admit, there is something very enjoyable about listening to time.) While some brands are just getting into this arena, others have … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: It’s chime time with the Moser Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Repeater Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet having made such watches Apr 22, 2022

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Repeater Ceramic

Having unveiled a series of integrated-bracelet watches in candy-coloured ceramic at Watches & Wonders 2022, Hublot has followed up with a “high complication” in ceramic, the Big Bang Integral Cathedral Minute Repeater Ceramic. While complicated watches in end-to-end ceramic already exist, striking watches in ceramic are rare, with only Hublot and Audemars Piguet having made such watches. The Big Bang Integral is novel for combining both a tourbillon and repeater, one with longer-than-usual cathedral gongs in fact. And it manages to be water resistant in contrast to most striking watches that are merely moisture-proof, due to the challenge of sealing the slide while allowing maximum sound transmission. Initial thoughts The latest Big Bang Integral perfectly encapsulates Hublot as a brand, illustrating its strengths (and a few weaknesses). It’s powered by a complex, in-house movement contained matched with a case and bracelet that showcases the brand’s proficiency with unusual materials – all of which is possible thanks to the brand’s expansive yet agile manufacture. In typical Hublot fashion, the watch is loud – visually rather than acoustically – even in black. It looks like a Hublot, and the brand has essentially only one aesthetic. It has a technical, modern aesthetic that goes well with the open dial, a feature that’s uncommon in minute repeaters but useful since it reveals the entirety of the strikework. At almost US$300,000, the Tourbillon Repeat...

VIDEO: From a slimline flying tourbillon to a retro stunner in green – the Chopard 2022 releases Time+Tide
Chopard 2022 releases If variety Apr 8, 2022

VIDEO: From a slimline flying tourbillon to a retro stunner in green – the Chopard 2022 releases

If variety is the spice of life, Chopard broke out the chilli sauce for Watches & Wonders 2022.  Their large range of releases covered a variety of genres while maintaining that upper-class character we expect from the famed Swiss watchmaker. Whether it was a complicated addition to a collection, a brand-new take on a retro … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: From a slimline flying tourbillon to a retro stunner in green – the Chopard 2022 releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils Apr 6, 2022

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3

Having unveiled the first all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 earlier this year to mark the model’s 40th anniversary, Audemars Piguet has now taken the covers off the first “Jumbo” tourbillon. Possible thanks to the newly developed movement found in the ref. 16202, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3 has exactly the same dimensions, but also boasts a flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts Recent Royal Oak tourbillons were bulky compared to the svelte time-and-date “Jumbo”, largely because they utilised movements developed for use across Audemars Piguet’s range of watches. Last year’s Royal Oak automatic tourbillon, for instance, was 41 mm in diameter and shares the same movement as the Code 11.59 tourbillon. In contrast the new “Jumbo” tourbillon is equipped with a movement conceived specifically for the model, one that allows the case to retain the dimensions of the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 of 1972. As a result, the “Jumbo” tourbillon is surely an appealing watch, because the lines and proportions of the original Royal Oak are practically ideal. Granted, the addition of the tourbillon is a matter of taste – you may or may not like the aperture on the dial that reveals the regulator. I like the look, with one caveat: I wish the “AP” emblem was retained on the dial. “Jumbo” but elegant The new tourbillon is essentially the ref. 16202 with the addition of a tourbillon regulator. It has exactly th...

Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022 Quill & Pad
Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Apr 2, 2022

Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022

At Watches and Wonders 2022, Chopard unveiled another Alpine Eagle, this time with a sophisticated escapement: a flying tourbillon. While not too long ago the high-end market seemed to be flooded with this tiny whirlwind, that no longer seems to be the case. And Sabine Zwettler thinks that there could not be a better place for a new flying tourbillon than the “Aletsch” blue dial of the Alpine Eagle.