Time+Tide
The Beaubleu La Pièce No. 1 is a wonderfully eccentric celebration of French watchmaking
Discover the Beaubleu La Pièce No. 1, a distinctive French dress watch with circular hands, a mysterious dial, and elegant vintage styling
Results for Above the Date Window
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Time+Tide
Worn & Wound
To Carry and To Keep: The Tudor Watches of Warriors
“In times of war or uncertainty there is a special breed of warrior ready to answer our nation’s call. A common man with uncommon desire to succeed… I am that man.” –U.S. Navy SEAL Code A Note Writing about the military – especially those who served our nation in the U.S. Armed Forces – is something I consider to be an honor, and it’s a responsibility I take seriously. The risk of sensationalizing or exploiting veteran experiences for media or corporate gain is too great and happens too frequently to leave that acknowledgement unstated. My respect for and personal relationships with the military population sometimes leads me to be overly cautious in my approach to these subjects to protect the privacy of the individuals or the institutions with which they are affiliated. Some experiences are off the record, and that is okay. The spirit of the story remains. I also want to acknowledge that discussions of military history can be divisive. I am a U.S. military historian by training and that shapes how I think and write. But my perspective is just a small percentage of the many globally nuanced lenses that can be applied to this topic. The watch world is international, diverse, and certainly strong enough to withstand the contributions of many – even if our conclusions differ. I am a civilian. After leaving school, I had the good fortune to work as a liaison to the U.S. Office of Veterans Affairs. Because of my educational background, I knew the facts and...
Hodinkee
Just Because: Nine Incredible Watches I Saw Inside The Archives At A. Lange & Söhne HQ
The small German town of Glashütte is paradise for watch nerds. Some people don’t quite believe how densely packed the watchmaking is in this little town in Saxony, with the biggest German horological names literally next door to each other. But undoubtedly the most iconic name in Glashütte watchmaking (and German high horology in general) is A. Lange & Söhne, and the manufacturer rarely opens its doors to outsiders to take a closer look at what the brand is up to. Earlier this year, during the rainy month of July, a few of us on the Hodinkee editorial team hopped over to Glashütte to see what was happening within the secretive walls of the Lange, and to say that the visit was unforgettable is surely the understatement of the century. There’s still lots to come from our visit, but one of the best moments of the few days I spent there was, well, looking at watches—very special watches though, pulled from the Lange archives. The Designs Behind The Revival Kicking it off are three of modern A. Lange & Söhne's inaugural silhouettes in yellow gold, representing the then-new designs unveiled by Günter Blümlein on October 24th, 1994. That day, of course, marked a pivotal moment that not only revived the A. Lange & Söhne name after a long period of dormancy, but also set a new standard for what high-end watchmaking meant in the mid-nineties, especially among its Swiss contemporaries. The Lange 1 could just be the most iconic model from the brand. It’s the onl...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oris Takes the Green Dial Dive Watch in a Different Direction
The Oris Aquis Kelp Forest Limited Edition brings a 3D-printed green dial to the familiar dive watch, with an unusual texture inspired by underwater forests.
Monochrome
First Look - Tissot Pumps Up and Opens Up the PRX for Damian Lillard
The PRX is one of Tissot’s defining collections, offering an accessible take on the integrated design inspired by the 1970s watches, with contemporary proportions and mechanics. The popular concept takes on a different form with the new PRX Skeleton Damian Lillard Special Edition. Created with the NBA player known as “Dame Time”, this second PRX […]
Hodinkee
The Business of Watches Podcast: Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, Founder And Chief Executive Officer Of Fears
This week on The Business of Watches, we sit down with Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, founder and CEO of Fears Watches, for an in-depth discussion. Nicholas has packed a lot into his 39 years. For the last decade, he's helmed the brand, originally founded in Bristol, England, in 1846 by his great-great-great-grandfather, Edwin Fears. Incredibly, Bowman-Scargill wasn't even aware of the Fears brand and family connection when he decided to train as a watchmaker at Rolex in the U.K. That move into watches followed an ill-timed foray into investment banking on the eve of the 2008 Global Financial Crisis. Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the fourth managing director of Fears Watches. By the time Bowman-Scargill restarted the brand in 2016, it had been dormant for nearly four decades. He says its revival has been an exercise in business challenges, often met by the art of project management, a skill set he and his fellow Brits are uniquely adept at. Fears has now grown to about 15 people and returned to its roots in Bristol. From flirting with bankruptcy to implementing a dress code for employees and overseeing the design and production of a perpetual calendar model, Bowman-Scargill relays the dramatic tale of how the company has survived and thrived in the crowded, competitive arena of mid-tier timepieces. It's a heck of a story that offers heaps of insight for any watch enthusiast, collector, or small business owner. From what he learned and has applied at Fears from his time at...
Fratello
The New Unimatic Modello Quattro U4S-NPB Reflects The Moods Of Piedmont’s Langhe Region
Autumn is a season of moods, as we see in everything from the famous colors of Indian summers in New England to the striking landscapes of Central Europe during “old women’s summers.” Italy’s regions also offer distinctive scenery and shifting colors. The landscape of Piedmont’s Langhe region inspired Unimatic’s Langhe collection, a set of 12 […] Visit The New Unimatic Modello Quattro U4S-NPB Reflects The Moods Of Piedmont’s Langhe Region to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The Goddess Returns to Villeret on the Minerva Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Limited Edition
The Minerva Exo Tourbillon Skeleton marks the manufacture’s transition to a standalone brand structure, dropping the previous dual Montblanc branding to focus entirely on its own heritage. Limited to just 18 pieces in rose gold, the watch reveals incredible details of the hand-finished, skeletonised calibre M18.69, combined with classical design elements like the agate cameo […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Mexican-Themed Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Día de los Muertos Edition 13
Chopard continues its tribute to Mexican culture with the thirteenth interpretation of its L.U.C Full Strike. This latest one-of-a-kind “Día de los Muertos” creation pairs one of the manufacture’s most technically accomplished watches with an elaborate dial depicting a calavera, the stylised skull associated with the celebration of life and remembrance. The 2021 version of […]
SJX Watches
Industrial Artisanship and the Paradox of Independence
Independent watchmaking is often discussed as a world apart from the work of major brands. But the distinction becomes less clear when we look at how specific watches are made and who makes them, especially when it comes to artisanal watchmaking within industrial brands. From this perspective, the qualities that once distinguished the work of independent watchmakers are increasingly evident within major brands. Yet historical manufactures remain under-appreciated for exceptional hand finishing, distinctive movement architecture, and small-scale production that would attract considerable attention with an independent’s name on the dial. An objective measure Back in 2022, we published a widely cited market map of the fine watchmaking sector based on the concept of watchmaker-hours. The goal was to look beyond brand positioning and establish an objective, quantitative basis for comparing different approaches to production. The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst is a prime example of small-scale artisanal watchmaking taking place within a larger organisation The methodology was simple: take a company’s available employee hours — essentially the headcount multiplied by the number of hours in the working year — and divide it by its total output, in terms of watches per year. The result is a theoretical maximum number of human hours available for each watch. The cal. 31-260 inside the Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P typifies the industrial-haut...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: Exploring Film Photography with the Nodus Obscura II
When you’ve been using the same camera and lens for literal decades, it can be hard to push yourself creatively and get out of your own habits. Shooting in all conditions becomes muscle memory, and even the trickiest shots can start to feel like just another snap of the shutter. So what is a hobby photographer to do? Well, if you’re me, you use the exposure gauge on the new Nodus Obscura II to challenge your idea of “correct”, and re-learn the act of shooting film in the process. Let’s rewind a bit, first. Nodus is a Los Angeles-based microbrand established in 2017 who specializes in purpose-built watches. That may seem like a nebulous thing to claim as your hallmark, but it basically comes down to this: all Nodus watches are assembled, regulated, and tested in Los Angeles, and are intended to perform their stated function (or functions) at the highest degree, rather than offering a myriad of complications that could muddy a piece’s “purpose”. Their lineup consists of divers, pilot and sport watches, and GMT units. The star collection, though, is their Design Lab series, where the brand showcases watches designed and built in collaboration with other creators or brands. These watches push Nodus’ aesthetics, and introduce even more hyper-niche categories and use cases. The most innovative of the Design Lab watches is, of course, the Obscura II collaboration with Beers and Cameras. Image: Nodus The first Obscura watch introduced Nodus’ patented exposu...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon, now in an Elegant 36mm Pink Gold Case
When thinking about the most emblematic watches produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre, some might, of course, mention the Reverso or the Memovox immediately. That said, the Master collection must be included in the list, whether we’re talking about the Master Control collection that debuted in 1992, or the more recent, more elegant and more slender Master Ultra […]
Hodinkee
Happenings: "George Daniels 100" Exhibition To Celebrate The Legendary Watchmaker With Some Of His Rarest Pieces In Singapore
There's no such thing as overdoing the celebration of the impact of George Daniels on the horological landscape, especially in the year that marks the 100th anniversary of his birth. Coinciding with the opening of IAMWATCH in Singapore, a celebration of the modern independent watchmaking scene, a scene that would likely not exist if not for Daniels—Phillips and The Hour Glass are exhibiting 22 of his watches. That list, which hasn't fully been made public, includes—for the first time—reuniting the Space Traveller I and Daniels' personal Space Traveller II. Photo courtesy Phillips and The Hour Glass. The fact that there will be twenty-two of Daniels' watches in one place is even more remarkable considering that, during his lifetime, Daniels alone made only twenty-four pocket watches and two wristwatches (the Spring Case Tourbillon and the Four-Minute Tourbillon) before the Millennium and Anniversary done with Roger W. Smith (not accounting for some other pieces that were made by Smith under Daniels' direction). For acolytes of Daniels, lovers of horology, and people who appreciate once-in-a-lifetime opportunities, the exhibition in Singapore is something you can't miss. Luckily, you'll have at least two chances to see the exhibition. Photo courtesy the George Daniels Educational Trust. For even more context, the Space Traveller and Space Traveller II are particularly important watches in the annals of watchmaking history. Both were made in 1982; the first was made and...
Time+Tide
Lights Out: Introducing the 36mm Timex Intrepid x Dimepiece ‘Blackout’ Edition
The Timex Intrepid x Dimepiece Blackout Edition brings a stealthy new look to the 36mm sports watch, with a PVD case and purple accents.
Fratello
Fratello On Air: What Will It Take To Turn The Vintage Speedmaster Market Around?
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we have an open chat about what it might take to turn the vintage Speedmaster market around. Let’s face it, it has been quiet for a long time. We’d love nothing more than to see the enthusiasm return and hear your thoughts on what […] Visit Fratello On Air: What Will It Take To Turn The Vintage Speedmaster Market Around? to read the full article.
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Lebois & Co Heritage Small Seconds, Three Ways to Wear Vintage Elegance
Founded in 1934 and revived by Dutch entrepreneur Tom van Wijlick in 2014 (who is also behind the return of Airain and its Type 20/21 pilot’s chronographs), Lebois & Co has gradually built its contemporary collection with watches inspired by the brand’s historical catalogue. Following the Heritage Chronograph, the Heritage Small Seconds takes a simpler […]
Fratello
Harnessing Heritage: The Lebois & Co Numeral, Baton, And Script Small Seconds
As we’ve come to expect, Lebois & Co revives mid-century designs with care. The brand now offers its Heritage Small Seconds models in three new interpretations. Each draws from a different moment in the company’s past. Moreover, the Numeral, Baton, and Script share the same refined case and COSC-certified movement. This allows collectors to choose […] Visit Harnessing Heritage: The Lebois & Co Numeral, Baton, And Script Small Seconds to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The new Renaud Tixier Monday Skeleton
Renaud Tixier is an independent brand born from a partnership between Dominique Renaud, the veteran inventor and co-founder of movement developer Renaud & Papi, and Julien Tixier, a talented young master watchmaker. Working from their high-complication workshop, the formidable duo is determined to rethink seven core horological principles, with seven watches named after the days […]
Fratello
Innovation On Display: Renaud Tixier Introduces The Monday Skeleton
Renaud Tixier continues its Monday collection with the new Monday Skeleton, a fully openworked version of the watch that launched the young maison in 2024. Available in green and blue, the two editions each have a 40.8mm gray gold case and are limited to 15 pieces. The new model brings together Dominique Renaud’s expertise in […] Visit Innovation On Display: Renaud Tixier Introduces The Monday Skeleton to read the full article.
Fratello
The New Hermès Cape Cod In Titanium - A Dressy, Feminine Watch Turned Sporty And Masculine
This March, I helped organize and attended a Watch Discovery at the Hermès boutique in Amsterdam. Of course, the sporty H08 and the Arceau in various configurations were there. I was also pleasantly surprised by the skeletonized Slim d’Hermès. However, the watch that really stuck with me was the Hermès Cape Cod. Its unusual shape […] Visit The New Hermès Cape Cod In Titanium — A Dressy, Feminine Watch Turned Sporty And Masculine to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - A new Gold Tone for the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Zeitgeist 1665 3N
The Mirrored Force Resonance by independent watchmaking brand Armin Strom is, without a doubt, one of the most fascinating watches of recent years. Its spectacular movement builds on an idea first explored in 1665, when Christiaan Huygens observed the synchronisation of two pendulum clocks: resonance. First unveiled in 2016, Armin Strom refined the century-old concept […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Paulin Mara Limited Edition For Hodinkee
The Mara Limited Edition goes back to the mid-century divers of the 1950s and
Worn & Wound
Ode to a Legend with the Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo
Hublot is a brand that has long endured scrutiny for its bold and out-of-the-box approach to watchmaking, and frankly, I’ve never quite understood why the industry and the collector sphere has relentlessly put the brand under fire. In many other instances, brands have been revered for being a disrupter, so why not Hublot? The inaugural design that launched the brand back in 1980 was the first to combine a precious metal case with a rubber strap, laying the foundation for what the brand now calls the “Art of Fusion.” However, you have to understand that at the time, this was both risky and revelatory – rubber straps weren’t nearly as prevalent as they are today, and pairing one with a precious metal as opposed to stainless steel was unheard of. Now, we see rubber straps in most brands’ repertoires often combined with a precious metal. So, in fact, Hublot set the standard for something that was once audacious but now commonplace and considered totally “normal” (whatever normal really means) – maybe we should give Hublot a little more credit and not be so quick to judge. Today, we are fully celebrating that model that started it all – at the time, called the Classic Original and now known as the Classic Fusion with the aptly named Tributo. Beyond the innovative combination of materials, the original composition established some specific design codes, including the porthole shaped case with 12 prominent screws securing the bezel framing a plain and totally ...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Semi-Openworked Version Watches V0201-TH, now on Kickstarter
Version Watches is a young independent brand founded in 2024 founded by a feminine duo, Cybèle Vigneron and Carla Lafranchini. Version creates Swiss-made watches that are classic with a twist, exploring the idea of transparency and suggestion through its signature semi-openworked dials. The brand now comes with its second collection following the V01-LLC that reached […]
Fratello
The Best Watch I’ve Ever Owned: The Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 50th Anniversary
A few months ago, we asked our team members to write about the best watch they’ve ever owned. Thomas wrote a love story about his Rolex Explorer II 16570, Jorg was (and still is) talking about the Tudor Black Bay Pro, and Lex wrote that his JLC Geophysic Universal Time beats all his other watches. […] Visit The Best Watch I’ve Ever Owned: The Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 50th Anniversary to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Aussie brand EXOFI launches debut dive watch, the Wolf Rock 42
Australia's microbrand scene has a new contender. We take a closer look at the EXOFI Wolf Rock, a dive watch inspired by Queensland's coast
Fratello
Hands-On: The New Louis Vuitton Monterey In Green And Black Ceramic
Names of Swiss watch brands and models can be tricky to pronounce, especially the French ones. Does the name Jay-Jay Le Coot ring a bell? I will let you figure it out and bring up another name. It’s now an official name, but it stems from the trouble some had in pronouncing the original. In […] Visit Hands-On: The New Louis Vuitton Monterey In Green And Black Ceramic to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Insight: The Triumph of the Maltese Cross
The Maltese cross is a ubiquitous device found inside all sorts of mechanical movements. Originally devised to limit a mainspring’s working range, it also makes an appearance in perpetual calendars and unconventional jumping hours complications. The elegant mechanism is both simple and clever, warranting a closer look. From cross to mechanics The Maltese cross mechanism gets its name from the heraldic symbol adopted by the Order of St. John, and remains associated with the Sovereign Military Order of Malta. While the original cross has four arms, the Maltese cross as a horological component commonly features five arms or more. Collectors also recognise the cross as Vacheron Constantin’s logo, adopted in 1880 in tribute to the horological component. Today, Vacheron Constantin also incorporates the cross into its tourbillon cage and even some decorative screw heads. Screw for the column wheel fashioned with a Maltese cross head inside the Vacheron Constantin caliber 3200. The component itself is a masterfully simple example of geometry and mechanics. The system allows a true 1-to-any transmission ratio, since the driving component only has one tooth which makes the cross-shaped wheel advance one single step every revolution. For comparison, a 1:5 transmission ratio can be accomplished by a pinion with ten leaves paired to a wheel with 50 teeth, but the motion transmitted would then be continuous. A Maltese cross still makes one full revolution after the driver turns five...
Time+Tide
Hublot Founder Carlo Crocco on the birth of fusion, royal customers and the return of his original design
Hublot Founder Carlo Crocco reflects on the risks that shaped the brand and why its first watch still matters
Monochrome
The ABCs of Time - The History of Chinese Watchmaking, From Reverse Engineering to a Growing Indie Scene
China was very late to watchmaking, with its first wristwatch debuting in 1955, while Japan had a domestic pocket watch in 1895 and its first wristwatch in 1913 (respectively Seiko’s Timekeeper and Seiko’s Laurel). Both Swiss and British watchmaking go back to the 16th century, for context. That said, China now produces more watches than all […]