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INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 10th Anniversary Limited Editions Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo 10th Anniversary Mar 22, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 10th Anniversary Limited Editions

Consumers in this day and age are all too familiar with the finished products of watch manufacturers thanks to digital watch media, whether from publications such as ours, social media, or forums. But, it is not always the case that consumers are offered a final product that leverages the origins of its design. To celebrate … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 10th Anniversary Limited Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion Elements in Mineral Stone SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Feb 24, 2022

Hublot Introduces the Classic Fusion Elements in Mineral Stone

A Singapore watch retailer with a presence across Southeast Asia, Australasia, and even Japan, The Hour Glass frequently collaborated with the brands it represents on regional exclusives. The latest is the Classic Fusion 42 mm Elements, a variation on the watchmaker’s long-running, minimalist wristwatch but dressed up with striking mineral stone dials, ranging from tiger’s eye to turquoise, set against a titanium-and-gold case. Tiger’s eye Initial thoughts Like past editions created by The Hour Glass, the Classic Fusion Elements is different but attractive, accomplishing the most obvious purpose of a collaboration edition. Even though the Classic Fusion has been iterated endlessly, the Elements still manages to stand out. That’s thanks to several simple but smart details that demonstrate a good eye for design. The dial, for example, does away with hours markers and the date so the mineral stone can be revealed in all its natural glory. The unencumbered dial is not only appealing for its striking simplicity, but it will also speak to fans of the brands as it resembles the original Hublot design of 1980. Even though the dial is the star, the two-tone case plays an important role in the overall look. The gold accents make the case immediately more striking than its monochromatic counterparts, but the restrained use of gold means the result is stylish and avoids old-fashioned look that often comes with the two-tone combination. That said, the dial colours do call to...

More compact, thinner and “time only” - the Hublot Big Bang Integral in 40mm Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integral Feb 22, 2022

More compact, thinner and “time only” - the Hublot Big Bang Integral in 40mm

The Hublot Integral, as its name suggests, has been a core representation of the sports-watch brand for quite some time now. It’s seen its fair share of evolutions in regards to case materials and colours, but it has always been found with its high-tech skeletonised dial and UNICO flyback chronograph movement, with the exception of … ContinuedThe post More compact, thinner and “time only” – the Hublot Big Bang Integral in 40mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Corum Classical Billionaire: A Unique Piece That, While Pricey, Isn’t (Quite) As Expensive As It Looks And Its Name Suggests Quill & Pad
Corum Classical Billionaire Feb 17, 2022

Corum Classical Billionaire: A Unique Piece That, While Pricey, Isn’t (Quite) As Expensive As It Looks And Its Name Suggests

If there is one thing Martin Green likes, it is a well-designed diamond-set watch. And while there are quite a few around, there aren’t many as good as the Corum Classical Billionaire, which focuses on displaying the art of diamond cutting and setting. No less than 424 diamonds (for a total of 13.46 carats) decorate the white gold case. That is a lot of stones, but diamonds alone don't automatically make for a great watch. It’s the way that the gems are cut and set that ultimately decides if they add something more than just their precious and pricey nature.

The Hublot Yellow Gold collection is a return to the brand’s trailblazing roots Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Offshore Feb 17, 2022

The Hublot Yellow Gold collection is a return to the brand’s trailblazing roots

It’s hard to remember a time when ultra-luxe sport watches weren’t available on rubber. Today, buyers can choose from Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore, Zenith’s Defy, Rolex’s Daytona, and many more, but this wasn’t always the case. Pre-’80s, rubber straps were considered déclassé, far too casual for anything but a dive watch. But Hublot changed … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Yellow Gold collection is a return to the brand’s trailblazing roots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Havid Nagan Debuts with the Clean and Geometric HN00 SJX Watches
Havid Nagan Feb 9, 2022

Havid Nagan Debuts with the Clean and Geometric HN00

After two years of development, Havid Nagan has finally made its debut with the HN00 Titanium. An unusually well-honed design for the inaugural watch of a brand that originated on Kickstarter, the HN00 combines an original case with an attractive guilloche dial, as well as a respectable micro-rotor movement. The genesis of Havid Nagan lay in its founder Aren Bazerkanian’s goal of producing a relatively accessible watch that incorporates elements typically found in pricier timepieces. So Mr Bazerkanian launched a modest Kickstarter campaign in 2019 to fund the prototyping process. Initial thoughts The HN00 is notable for managing a fairly original design that contains thoughtful details. Most impressive is the barleycorn guilloche dial covered in glossy, lacquer that mimics enamel. While the pattern is common, the HN00 dial is especially fine, especially around the centre of the dial where the grain converges and diminishes in size. Importantly, the dial has done away with superfluous elements such as a date or seconds hand, which presents the guilloche in all its glory. Even with the proliferation of the cushion-shaped case, the squarish case of the HN00 stands on its own. It avoids calling to mind watches from the likes of Panerai or Patek Philippe. The dimensions of the case are restrained, though it does feel a bit on the thick because neither the bezel nor the case back are sloped, while the case middle is tall, resulting in substantial verticality. At US$8...

The super-exclusive Tudor Black Bay that you’ve never seen before Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Feb 7, 2022

The super-exclusive Tudor Black Bay that you’ve never seen before

Editor’s note: There are a lot of watches out there and while we endeavour to stay across as many as we can, truth be told, some fly under the radar (fly being the operative word in this case). That’s why we were delighted when a Time+Tide reader, Edouard, informed us about a watch we’d never … ContinuedThe post The super-exclusive Tudor Black Bay that you’ve never seen before appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Vasco da Gama SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Vasco da Feb 1, 2022

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Vasco da Gama

Launched last year but perhaps overshadowed by mega complication like the Vermeer pocket watch and Traditionnelle split-seconds chronograph, the Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Explorers – Vasco da Gama was the latest in Vacheron Constantin’s long-running series of antiquarian-map watches dedicated to noted historical seafarers. The Vasco da Gama, along with its siblings in the series, exemplify the brand’s tagline for 2021 – “Classic with a Twist” – with a case that evokes 1980s design but an enamelled dial and time display that are both quirky and interesting. The Vasco da Gama is one third of the Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Explorers collection. The other two watches that make up the rest of the line up are naturally dedicated to “Great Explorers”, namely Bartolomeu Dias and Pedro Alvarez Cabral, fellow Portuguese sailors who were contemporaries of da Gama. They are each mechanically identical to the Vasco da Gama and differ only in terms of the dial motif. Each of the dials depict the journey of the respective explorer who were professional seamen who charted the world during the Age of Discovery, the period between the 15th and 18th centuries that saw the rise of European empires as their ships roamed the world. The watch outlines the first voyage of da Gama, the first European to reach India by sea. In 1497, he led his fleet of four ships on the two-year journey, setting sail south Lisbon, then around the Cape of Good Hope, and onto to Cali...

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Horizon Light Up Smartwatch SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Jan 15, 2022

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Horizon Light Up Smartwatch

Now in its fifth year of smartwatches, Louis Vuitton has just unveiled the latest generation of its “connected” watch, the Tambour Horizon Light Up. Still easily recognisable as a Louis Vuitton watch, and looking more like a watch than a device – that is the point of it – the Light Up is a thoughtful evolution of the concept, bringing with it a rounded, edge-to-edge screen and redesigned case. The result is a surprisingly attractive watch, albeit one that is amongst the priciest smartwatches on the market. The Light Up gets its name from the “rainbow” bezel powered by two dozen LEDs Initial thoughts Smartwatches with screens generally fall into two categories. One comes from the likes of Apple and Samsung, gadgets for the wrist that are evidently electronic devices. And the other are those from traditional watchmakers, ranging from TAG Heuer to Montblanc, which are typically resemble large wrist instruments for sports. With its simple case and discreet buttons, the Light Up clearly just wants to be a watch – and it succeeds. It is a (very) luxe smartwatch, so it’s not for everyone, but there’s no denying that the Light Up is appealing as a watch with intelligent features. With its Ressence-like case and whimsical features, the watch avoids the oversized wrist gadget look, and perfectly encapsulates the brand’s design prowess and house style. Left to right: the steel case in a polished finish, matte black PVD, and matte brown PVD And the Light Up is, ...

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Casablanca SJX Watches
Franck Muller Jan 14, 2022

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Casablanca

Now in its third decade, Franck Muller is a success story of independent watchmaking, having gone from a small outfit centred on its eponymous founder to a brand with nine-figure annual revenue. Alongside its stable of inventive and highly complicated wristwatches, the brand is most famous for its tonneau-shaped watch case – the Cintrée Curvex – which was so successful in the 1990s that made tonneau cases a thing in contemporary watchmaking. The new Vanguard Casablanca is an evolution of that tonneau shape, while adopting the palette and styling of the Cintrée Curvex Casablanca that was a bestseller when it was launched in 1998. While the Vanguard was introduced in 2014, the Casablanca makes it debuts with a new 43 mm size that fills the gap between the 41 mm and 45 mm cases. Initial thoughts The original Casablanca took its name from the 1942 film starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. Meant to evoke the era of steamship travel and exotic port cities, the Casablanca had oversized Arabic numerals and dials in retro colours like salmon and sand. That’s been translated into the Vanguard Casablanca, which blends the retro style of the original with a distinctly modern case in a sporty, masculine size. It’s a strong and appealing design that is arguably even more quintessentially Franck Muller than the earlier versions of the Vanguard. The Casablanca is available as a time-only and also a chronograph Because the look is very much typical of Franck Muller, thi...

Maxim Sushkov Unveils Another Custom Time-Only SJX Watches
Jan 9, 2022

Maxim Sushkov Unveils Another Custom Time-Only

Best known for his versatile repertoire and customised watches, Russian watchmaker Maxim Sushkov recently realised the vision of a Scottish watch collector, who wanted a one-off, time-only watch. The result has been christened Dark Sky. Despite its simple format, the new watch incorporates several interesting details that help it stand out from the sea of industrially-produced timepieces that dominate in this price range. Initial thoughts As is the case with most of Mr Sushkov’s projects, the Dark Sky is basic in terms of function, but it scores well for aesthetics. It’s essentially a three-hand watch with unusual details, including a mother-of-pearl dial with pink accents and wavy guilloche on the seconds register. The owner’s inclinations are evident in the watch, because Mr Sushkov is able to accommodate a large degree of customisation, since he operates his own work workshop and produces most parts from scratch, including the hands, dials, and even cases. The personalised and artisanal experience has long been a primary draw of independent watchmaking, but that experience often comes with high prices and a long waitlist, especially now. Mr Sushkov’s work is unusual in its affordability. The Dark Sky costs €4,500 before taxes – entirely affordable and strong value considering the degree of customisation and the magnitude of workmanship required to accomplish that customisation. Pink and pearlescent The most eye-catching element of the Dark Sky is indeed th...

Three of our favourite Hamilton Ventura watches to celebrate Elvis’ birthday Time+Tide
Hamilton Ventura watches Jan 9, 2022

Three of our favourite Hamilton Ventura watches to celebrate Elvis’ birthday

The Hamilton Ventura was a truly revolutionary watch upon its release. While Richard Arbib’s extremely unique case shape turned heads, it wasn’t the Ventura’s true party piece. As the world’s first electric watch powered by a battery, it became an instant worldwide sensation. However, the Ventura’s true claim to fame comes as Elvis Presley’s companion … ContinuedThe post Three of our favourite Hamilton Ventura watches to celebrate Elvis’ birthday appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Available in the shop: The Omega Speedmaster Apollo 13 Silver Snoopy Revolution
Omega Speedmaster Apollo 13 Silver Jan 5, 2022

Available in the shop: The Omega Speedmaster Apollo 13 Silver Snoopy

With a stand out dial and incredible backstory, the Speedmaster Apollo 13 Silver Snoopy is one of Omega’s greatest success stories of recent years. This limited edition of 1970 pieces went viral when it was first released. But in case you’re not across the story of the dog, the space agency and the Swiss watchmaker, here’s five reasons why this watch (selected from Watchfinder & Co) is one of the coolest Omega limited edition Speedmasters ever.

VIDEO: The Longines HydroConquest gets extra zing with a luxe two-tone look Time+Tide
Longines HydroConquest gets extra zing Dec 31, 2021

VIDEO: The Longines HydroConquest gets extra zing with a luxe two-tone look

Watch brands tend to stick to their guns, whether that’s vintage-inspired reissues or totally modern watches that aren’t afraid to keep evolving. However, Longines are one of very few brands that can pull off both excruciatingly well, and in this case we take a look into the new 2021 collection of HydroConquest modern divers. Although … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines HydroConquest gets extra zing with a luxe two-tone look appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: new Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph Deployant
Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph Dec 18, 2021

Review: new Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph

The new Blancpain Air Command rides the waves of its predecessor but somehow lacks the finesse of the black dial model. Limited to 500 pieces, the 2019 model is mostly sold out if not completely sold out in stores. The new model benefits from it being a lighter and stronger material - titanium, and for those who prefer a subtler look, has a mostly matte finished case. In and of itself, the watch design is nicely executed and has a great movement behind it. And for those who prefer a blue dial over a black dial, a contemporary look over a homage, the new blue dial variant might be a better choice. But for those who prefer a more historically reminiscent timepiece, the 2019 homage would still be the leader of the pack.

Up Close: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 Dec 16, 2021

Up Close: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925

The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is a dive watch in precious metal, but still affordable – by a large margin compared to the all-yellow gold version – but no less intriguing than its pricier cousin. The standout feature of the”925″ is obvious from the model name: a case made of sterling silver, which is 92.5% silver by weight. But the taupe colour scheme is perhaps more unusual, especially for a dive watch. Essentially a muted grey with a hint of olive, the palette makes this the most understated Black Bay to date. I was impressed when this was released at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, but found it seemingly bland when I first saw it in the metal, albeit tightly wrapped in protective plastic. A few months later, Tudor lent me one for a test drive. The brand had insured the watch and assured me that it was fine to wear it out of the house, so I wore it out the day I received it. Initial thoughts A bestseller since its inception three years ago, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight (BB58) quickly evolved from a single model into a line-up of five variants, three of which – gold, silver, and bronze – were launched just this year. Five versions in three years might sound like a lot, but each iteration is vastly different in both style and material, so each has its own appeal. Most importantly, each BB58 variant will likely appeal to different buyers. Among the BB58s, the 925 is arguably the most unique. For one, a precious metal case is novel for Tudor, a brand...

Available in the Shop: Flip it and Reverse it, two takes on the iconic Reverso Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoultre s Reverso has been Dec 15, 2021

Available in the Shop: Flip it and Reverse it, two takes on the iconic Reverso

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso has been an icon for 90 years. Not only does this masterfully distinctive watch have an uncommon shape, it’s also got its signature move - the reversing case. While this watch these days is most commonly seen as something dressy, the Reverso has sporty roots and, as these two examples from WatchFinder & Co demonstrate, can project vastly different moods.

MICRO MONDAYS: Betting on black with the Brellum Wyvern GMT LE.1 Ghost Chronometer Time+Tide
Dec 13, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Betting on black with the Brellum Wyvern GMT LE.1 Ghost Chronometer

What would you do if you were an independent brand and created a specced out sports watch? A sports watch made with limited production and containing a chronometer-grade movement. Well, it seems for Brellum, you double down on the sportiness and provide something special. That something special in this case is a DLC-coated version, in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Betting on black with the Brellum Wyvern GMT LE.1 Ghost Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Dec 7, 2021

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire

A month after the one-of-a-kind, orange-crystal skull wristwatch sold for CHF220,000 at charity auction Only Watch 2021, Bell & Ross (B&R;) is unveiling its limited edition counterpart in clear sapphire crystal. With both its case and polygonal skull in clear sapphire crystal, the Cyber Skull Sapphire is powered by a proprietary movement incorporating a simple automaton that drives the skull’s lower jaw as the watch is wound. Initial thoughts With its dark orange visage, the Cyber Skull for Only Watch was the most striking lots of the auction, so it’s no surprise that the brand is returning to the idea with a limited run. Granted the Cyber Skull Sapphire lacks the punch of the orange skull, but it is certainly striking with its stying, size, and airy construction. The look is unashamedly modern and very much over the top. But beyond the aesthetics, the watch also features an interesting movement that was developed from the ground up to form a skull. The base plate is skull-shaped, while the going train was laid out to position the balance right in the middle of the skull’s forehead. Like almost all watches with sapphire crystal cases, the Cyber Skull Sapphire has a six figure price tag, albeit just into six figures at US$117,000. But the Cyber Skull Sapphire is catered for a specific buyer: one who wants an extravagant, hyper-modern aesthetic – and isn’t too bothered about price. And it accomplishes what it sets out to do well, but that specific buyer is also ...

HANDS ON: Grand Seiko’s tool-tastic steel bezel GMTs Time+Tide
Grand Seiko s tool-tastic steel bezel Nov 24, 2021

HANDS ON: Grand Seiko’s tool-tastic steel bezel GMTs

I always find it interesting how certain releases seem to fly under the radar. We all remember that watch that grabbed our attention but barely got a peep from the community. Maybe it’s bad timing or just bad luck but whatever the case may be, some watches just don’t make headlines. However, it tends to … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: Grand Seiko’s tool-tastic steel bezel GMTs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Oct 31, 2021

In-Depth: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola”

Francois-Paul Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021, the F.P. Journe FFC Blue, sticks to a familiar template. Like prior watches conceived for the biennial charity auction – the tourbillon of 2015, split-seconds chronograph of 2017, and the Astronomic of 2019 – this year’s timepiece has a tantalum case and blue dial. But FFC Blue is a strikingly unique watch – the five-fingered time display is a first in watchmaking. Though it has a conventional round case, the FFC Blue is conceptually closer to the unconventional Vagabondage watches than the brand’s round watches. Short for Francis Ford Coppola, the FFC Blue originated with a question posed to Mr Journe by the director of The Godfather and Apocalypse Now in 2012. Mr Coppola suggested a watch that indicated the time with human hand. Over the following years Mr Journe worked on the concept, with Mr Coppola suggesting the finger positions to indicate each hour. And now the filmmaker’s idea has been realised as a one-off creation for the charity auction. Though entirely unique compared with F.P. Journe’s other creations, the FFC is powered by the workhorse cal. 1300 of the Octa series Initial thoughts I found the hand-display concept intensely compelling when Mr Journe described it during my visit to Geneva in 2017. In the metal the FFC is equally compelling. It is inventive and appealing. It’s rather large at 42 mm in diameter, though like nearly all F.P. Journe watches it is unusually thin given the c...

Introducing the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac” - SJX Edition Two SJX Watches
Zodiac – SJX Edition Oct 25, 2021

Introducing the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac” - SJX Edition Two

Like the recent Habring² Erwin “Star”, the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac” was conceived to encapsulate the brand’s work while being different enough to stand apart from its other watches. Limited to 21 pieces (and one prototype), the Zodiac is the first watch in the brand’s Handwerk collection that is fully engraved on the front and back – entirely hand engraved in fact, with the only machine engraving on the watch being the markings on the rim of the case back. Origins This started with the simple fact that I was impressed with the Kudoke 2 when I first saw it in 2019. The watch also won the Petite Aiguille prize at the year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Equally important was the fact that I appreciate the specialised, artisanal nature of the Dresden-based brand, which is essentially a husband-and-wife enterprise led by by Stefan and Ev Kudoke. That said, I did wish the dial of the Kudoke 2 had more detail. And at the same time, Kudoke historically specialised in hand-engraved movements, which made it was obvious the solution was to enhance the Kudoke 2 with engraved decoration. “Kudoke” is hand engraved on the applied plaque whereas on the standard model it is machine engraved The starting point of the Zodiac was the day-and-night indicator on the standard Kudoke 2 – it is my favourite element and had to be retained. And its celestial-Art Deco would influence the rest of the Zodiac’s design. The day and night scale with a tiny crescent at 12 ...

What the Patek Phillipe 5095/1A potentially suggests about the future of the brand in steel Time+Tide
Patek Philippe introduced three new chronographs Oct 24, 2021

What the Patek Phillipe 5095/1A potentially suggests about the future of the brand in steel

Recently Patek Philippe introduced three new chronographs with complications: the 5905/1A, 5204-011, and 5930P-001. Standing out amongst the trio, to many, was the ref. 5905/1A – the first ever 5905 Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph to be released in stainless steel. Not only does the watch have a stainless-steel case, but also a matching stainless-steel bracelet … ContinuedThe post What the Patek Phillipe 5095/1A potentially suggests about the future of the brand in steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Quick takes: new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Eon Gold 42mm Deployant
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Eon Gold 42mm Oct 9, 2021

Quick takes: new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Eon Gold 42mm

The new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Eon Gold 42mm is a nice addition to the Excalibur line, in particular for its more elegant case size. Without compromising its sporty look, the skeletonized tourbillon timepiece provides an excellent alternative to classic watches, a segment of casual high luxury watches that are on an incline. The watch is priced at S$217,000 and limited to 88 pieces.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Oct 7, 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater

Debuted exactly 90 years ago a sports watch, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is famous for its swivelling case that was meant to protect the crystal. But in the modern day, the Reverso has paradoxically evolved into brand’s signature dress watch, as well as a canvas for assorted complications and artisanal decoration. The latest 90th anniversary model falls into the former category – the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater is highly complicated, with its mechanics visible on two open-worked faces: the chiming mechanism revealed on the front and the base movement on the reverse. The front (left) with the repeater revealed, and the back showing the hand-wind calibre Initial thoughts The Reverso Tribute Repeater is an example of smart engineering and design, executed in a way that is possible only with the Reverso’s two faces. Notably, doing away with a solid dial is actually a technical necessity (more on that later), rather than mere vanity, but it leaves the watch looking as impressively complicated as it is. Though a modular repeater, its repeating mechanism is no ordinary example, but instead incorporates two proprietary innovations that compound to produce louder chimes, namely the extra-large hammers and the gongs that are located as close to the wearer as possible – they are attached onto the front crystal, hence the absence of the dial. Upon activation, the slider on the left winds up the mainspring at six o’clock, which unwinds to power the repeater That said, t...