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Three-link semi-circular Rolex bracelet introduced for the 1956 Day-Date; Crownclasp closure.
1970s-80s lacquered colour dials for Rolex Day-Date; red / turquoise / salmon / lavender. Auction range $200k-$1M+.
Every Rolex Day-Date "President": 1803, 18038, 18238, 118238, Day-Date 40 (228xxx), Day-Date 36 (128xxx).
Deployant
Not just any ordinary tourbillon equipped wristwatch, God forbid that a tourbillon can be allowed to be called ordinary, but one which feature the tourbillon and another complication. Double Whammy so to speak. Here is a list of six of the best when it comes to piling another complication over the grand tourbillon. From theRead More
Hodinkee
He helped make James Bond and the Rolex Submariner what they are today.
Deployant
Environmental issues are one of the biggest concerns that mankind is facing today. These problems, unfortunately, are causing a detrimental impact on our climate and our ways of life. We are glad that there are a rising group of individuals who are speaking up and creating awareness of the dire situation, but more certainly needsRead More
Time+Tide
Ever since the “panda” dial Paul Newman Rolex Daytona sold for the GDP of a small African nation, it’s become the preserve of mega-rich rockstars only. And thus, we have just two examples of rockstars wearing it, one from the new school – old mate, Ed Sheeran who is quite the enthusiast and journeyman Eric Clapton. … ContinuedThe post Rockstars rocking vintage watches, Part 2 – Paul Newman Daytonas only appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A new green fumé to brighten your day.
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Time+Tide
Despite being an important pillar of the brand today, the Longines Record Collection is sometimes overlooked by the collector community. In its most refined form, the Record Collection represents the clean classicism that is so beautifully embodied by the brand, and offers a breadth of watches tailored for everyday wear. This year Longines have continued … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition is a triple threat of pearl dial, diamonds and on-trend oversized case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Independent Spirit: Time Makers Since 1985. By Olivier Muller. AHCI.ch; CHF75.00 Conceived by the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), the new book on independent watchmakers wants to address the persistent problem the founding members sought to remedy when they set up the association in 1985. Svend Andersen, one the two cofounders along with Vincent Calabrese, aptly describes the book in the foreword as a publication to raise awareness of independent watchmaking in a manner that’s not available from the mainstream watch press. In essence, the book is an update to The Hands of Time that was published 10 years ago for the AHCI’s 25th anniversary. Like the decade-old edition, the new book serves mainly to market the association’s members, with its structure being familiar to anyone who has seen the booklets that the AHCI has occasionally published, with each member is granted equal real estate to explain his work. The anniversary book of 2010 (left), and ‘The Independent Spirit’ A selection of AHCI booklets published over the last two decades In their own words… The AHCI’s 29 current members gets six pages each in The Independent Spirit, while the seven candidates for membership and 16 former members have one page each. Although Swiss watch journalist Olivier Müller is the “author” of the book, most of its content is a self-presentation by the watchmakers. In my reading, even his editing of their prose must have been restrain...
Time+Tide
The luxury watch industry is only growing around the world, and with many online publishers covering the world of horology extensively it has never been easier to learn about timepieces, their value, and the level of demand. One thing I do truly love about this hobby is there is a clear sense of community, a … ContinuedThe post Found a Patek or a Daytona at a suspiciously low price? It could be stolen stock from Amsterdam Vintage Watches. Check the serial numbers here… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The reissue of the Hanhart 417 ES marks the return of a legend among wristwatches. More than 60 years ago, its historic model served as the first pilot’s chronograph for the German armed forces. Today it combines the best design of the history with modern production techniques. The result a robust chronograph with an excitingRead More
Time+Tide
The WMB came out in 2019 as an unusual and strong contender from the newly formed French microbrand Serica, through an idea from the only American on the team, author of A Man & His Watch, Matt Hranek. Inspired by the iconic Wrist Watch Waterproof of the armed forces, a tough-looking everyday tool watch with … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Serica 4512, a tough French take on classic military utilitarian chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Deployant
Luxury sports watches have seemed to undergo a revival in recent years, with the introduction of numerous interpretations from multiple watch manufacturers. More recently, manufacturers have went beyond just making luxury sports watches. In this month alone, we have seen two manufacturers launching luxury sports watches with the chronograph function. Perhaps this is the organicRead More
Hodinkee
A watch you don't see every day.
SJX Watches
Time-only but visually and mechanically interesting, the Hublot Meca-10 wristwatch has a skeleton movement inspired by Meccano, the children’s construction toy. Now it’s been blown up – by a multiple of four – to create the Meca-10 Clock. Created in collaboration with Swiss clockmaker L’Epée, best known for the clocks it has made for MB&F; and Chanel, the Meca-10 Clock retains all of the key features of its wristwatch counterpart, namely the skeletonised construction and lengthy, 10-day running time. The clock and the watch that inspired it Initial thoughts Compared to the prolific, sci-fi clocks of MB&F;, the Meca-10 is more traditional. But it sets itself apart technically with its purpose-built, 10-day movement. In contrast, clocks by other brands express themselves in terms of case architecture, and mostly rely on the same the L’Epée 8-day movement. The Meca-10 has a straightforward, square case that resembles the typical Hublot Big Bang. The highlight is the movement, which originated in Hublot’s own movement development department led by Matthias Buttet, the brand’s resident technical guru, and subsequently built by L’Epee. The result is a clock that is legible and mechanically interesting, just like the Meca-10 wristwatch, giving the clock a similar sort of appeal. But the Meca-10 clock is surprisingly expensive, starting at US$47,400 for the steel version. That can be justified to a degree by the unique movement, but it’s still twice the pric...
SJX Watches
Founded just three years ago, Fugue got its start with a watch featuring a modular case with interchangeable lugs. The brand’s second model is altogether more interesting, the Fiction One. Powered by an automatic Sellita movement, the Fiction One has an intriguing mystery dial – the hands appear to be floating over its surface with no connection to the central axis. Available for pre-order on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter until end October, the Fiction One is available in two dial variations, white and smoked grey. And it is affordable, with a price of €350, or about US$420. [Update December 10, 2020: The original Kickstarter campaign for the watch did not meet its target, but Fugue is doing it a second time, offering the watch at a slightly lower price, as well as a smaller minimum quantity. The new campaign closes January 8, 2021.] Initial thoughts “Microbrands” tend to capitalise on designs that are the flavour of the day, reusing classic sports-watch designs for affordable watches. So amidst its crowdfunded peers, the Fiction One is refreshing. That said, the mystery time display is an old invention, dating to early 19th century when it was invented by French magician Jean-Eugène Robert Houdin.And in the mid 20th century, the Galaxy watch with mystery hands was produced by several brands, most notably LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and Longines. Fugue takes inspiration from those wristwatches, successfully reinterpreting the idea to create something mod...
SJX Watches
Just days after unveiling the Lupin the Third edition inspired by a Japanese anime series, Zenith has rolled out a limited edition for countries on the other side of the world. The Chronomaster Revival Liberty is similarly based on the El Primero A384, but dressed in red, white, and blue. Initial thoughts Zenith has released several limited edition A384s this year, which can feel a bit too frequent. But to the brand’s credit the editions have all been appealing, and the El Primero in general remains a well-priced chronograph. The Chronomaster Revival Liberty is a good looking watch that retains the 1970s spirit of the A384 while giving it a totally new colour. The tricolour combination brings to mind the American flag, but it is an attractive combination that’s helped by details like the whimsical candy-cane central seconds hand. Gradient blue The key element that sets this A384 edition apart from the others is the dial, which is finished in a matte, graduated blue that darkens towards the edges. The smoked or fumé finish is popular today, but not especially common at Zenith. It’s matched with the red and white striped seconds hand, as well as a red-on-white date disc. The rest of the watch is stock A384, which means it remains true to the 1969 original in size and finish. It’s 37 mm in diameter and finished with radial brushing on its top face, just like the original. And inside is the El Primero 400 movement. Key facts and price Zenith Chronomaster Revival Li...
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Hodinkee
We love vintage watches, and we know you do too, so here's what you should expect from us going forward.
Revolution
A legend is coming to THE RAKE. Please raise a glass to the newest member of the team, launching Thursday 12th November 2020. Register your interest at shop@revolutionmagazines.com.
Deployant
Underwater, accomplished and amateur divers alike need to rely on equipment that is impeccable both in terms of precision and safety. While previous models of the Polaris automatic only came with 100m water resistance, the dive styled watch is now a dive ready watch with the upgraded 300m water resistance. The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox is also equipped with this update in an attractive blue sunburst dial.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko has progressively introduced a diverse line up of watches to mark its 60th anniversary, ranging from a remake of the vintage 3180 to the heavily jewelled 8 Days to the T0 Constant Force Tourbillon, while also opening the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi production facility. Now the brand has finally reached the last of it anniversary watches with the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Caliber 9SA5 Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours SLGH003. Although the 60th anniversary watches are numerous, the most significant was the Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002, which was powered by the newly-developed 9SA5, the first of a new generation of movements that will underpin the Grand Seiko collection. The SLGH002 was available only in 18k yellow gold and correspondingly pricey, but now the movement is available in the all-steel SLGH003. Initial thoughts From the perspective of being a more affordable version of the yellow-gold SLGH002, the SLGH003 is appealing. It’s still an expensive watch – the retail price is US$9,700 – but a lot less than the US$43,000 of the gold model. But from the perspective of it being one of several anniversary editions, many of which share the same dial colour, it is less appealing. That is especially so given that the 9SA5 movement will inevitably be made available in regular-production models that will probably cost a bit less. So if the colour and design is a big draw, then the SLGH003 is a buy. If not, just wait for the next one. Anniversary livery The SLGH003 h...
Time+Tide
The Monaco celebrated its 50th birthday last year, so you’d think, given the slew of new and limited releases, that it might be given a break in 2020. But somehow, TAG Heuer have saved the best for the square classic’s 51st in the form of a sexy black dial, and a steel bracelet. What a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: New Monaco, who dis? A black dial, a steel bracelet, and we’re looking at an icon with fresh eyes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
We love classic pilot watches. Tough, no-nonsense brushed steel case tools that are a faithful reminder of the aviation glory days of yesteryear. What we want is a simple, clear dial and legibility on point, and monochromatic efficiency. But what if we had all this as a base, for a fully customisable watch not always … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The FullGear Pioneer – a customisable pilot watch featuring tritium tubes, launching this week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Now, we all have an image of the Speedmaster Professional, the icon, the Tool of Tool watches, the Moon Watch. A beautiful 42mm piece of history, with its delicate white lumed baton hands pointing to a still timeless sixties minute track, and delicate slightly recessed sub chronograph registers on a plain, matt monochromatic dial. Twisted … ContinuedThe post Would you pay $13,000USD for a Speedy that’s spent 188 days in space? Because that’s the current online bid… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Like we said in the previous instalment, 2020 has been so bad that fantasy is often all we’ve had left. Fantasies of leaving our houses are still being had daily in Melbourne, and fantasies of new watches and sunny days are not far behind. So, to try to make something good of the bad, we’ve … ContinuedThe post 2020 FANTASY WATCH COLLECTION PART 2 – What watches would we buy with a budget of $10,000 USD? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
With its auctions earlier in the year having been delayed due to the pandemic – and supplemented by weekly online sales – Sotheby’s has resumed its traditional schedule and the fall auction season in Hong Kong is now in full swing. Preceded by sales of wine, art, and jewellery, Important Watches takes place in Hong Kong in two days – at 4:00 pm on October 9. Made up of just over 180 lots, the catalogue encompasses independent watchmakers like Philippe Dufour – there are two Dufour Simplicities in the sale – who are notable and known, and also some who are less prominent today, like Antoine Preziuso and Svend Andersen. And the sale naturally the usual suspects, with the headline watch being a possibly-unique Rolex Daytona “Zenith” with a lapis lazuli dial, and perhaps the most intriguing being a quartz Rolex Beta 21 in white gold that might be one of a kind. Here’s a look at a couple of interesting lots, and the complete catalogue is available here. The lapis Daytona The white gold Rolex Beta-21 Lot 2062 – Andersen Geneve Secular Perpetual Calendar Known for his inventive complications and unique bespoke watches, Svend Andersen was a pioneer in independent watchmaking. He established his own brand in 1979 and cofounded the AHCI in 1986. Four decades on, he continues to produce watches using artisanal and traditional methods. A good example of his mechanical creativity is the secular perpetual calendar that made its debut in 1996 – the first of its...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: As I go to post this review, something very sad just dawned on me. It’s been over three years since I’ve had a holiday as long as the power reserve of this watch. Which is 10 days. Ten. Days. Which means this watch would still be ticking after one wind upon my return … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold with 240 hours power reserve is testosterone-drenched tech at its absolute finest appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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