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Highlights: The Interesting and Perhaps Overlooked at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet minute repeater that’s not May 20, 2021

Highlights: The Interesting and Perhaps Overlooked at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

With the Geneva watch auctions recently concluded, the action moves to Hong Kong where Phillips is presenting a large, 312-lot catalogue over two days and three sessions. Headlined by a pair of Patek Philippe ref. 2499s with certificates – first and third series specifically – the Phillips sale encompasses several lots that will delight collectors looking for intriguing timepieces that usually go under the radar – most of which are also value buys. They include a seemingly ordinary Panerai with a brilliant Minerva movement, a round Audemars Piguet minute repeater that’s not a Code 11.59, and the electric Cartier Tank Folle that is as left-field as they come. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XII takes place on June 5 (lots 801-852) and June 6 over two sessions (lots 853-1112). The full catalogue, along with registration for the auction, is available online. Lot 874 – Panerai Radiomir PAM 322 “Minerva” With little to distinguish it, the PAM 322 looks like any other Radiomir at a glance. Released in 2008 in a limited edition of 150 pieces, the PAM 322 is quintessential Panerai in style: a 47 mm titanium case, tobacco dial, and gilt hands. But turn it over and it is instantly recognisable as special. The PAM 322 is powered by the cal. OPXXVII, which is actually based on the Minerva cal. 16-15/16-17, one of the calibres destined for Montblanc’s top-of-the-line watches, then known as the Villeret 1858 collection (and now found in various 1858 and Heritage mode...

The Rise And Fall Of Fine Watchmaking At Cartier: It’s Been Surprisingly Complicated – Reprise Quill & Pad
Cartier It’s Been Surprisingly Complicated Feb 13, 2021

The Rise And Fall Of Fine Watchmaking At Cartier: It’s Been Surprisingly Complicated – Reprise

While the Collection Privée Cartier Paris was the definitive illustration of a time of forgotten elegance, Cartier's Fine Watch Making Collection, despite its extremely high quality and finishing, became one of the best examples of a disaster in the trend of pretentious haute horlogerie of the last decade. So what's going on with Cartier's high watchmaking division now?

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Atelier d’Antoine Offers You The Opportunity To Learn More About Fine Watchmaking And Have Fun At The Same Time Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Atelier d’Antoine Offers You Nov 18, 2020

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Atelier d’Antoine Offers You The Opportunity To Learn More About Fine Watchmaking And Have Fun At The Same Time

One of the advantages of writing about watches is visiting the brands. And while we do our best to share these treasured experiences with you as best as we can, nothing can replace the pleasure and joy of experiencing things for yourself. Happily, Jaeger-LeCoultre is now offering Atelier d’Antoine masterclasses, manufacture visits, and discovery workshops not only to journalists but also to watch aficionados. Here's how you can get in on the fun!

On The Importance Of Antoine Simonin And His Special Jury Prize At The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève By Dr. Rebecca Struthers Quill & Pad
Nov 17, 2020

On The Importance Of Antoine Simonin And His Special Jury Prize At The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève By Dr. Rebecca Struthers

Of all the winners from the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, this was the one that really made Dr. Rebecca Struthers smile! Among all the glamour of the watch industry, it’s easy to forget the importance of education; here she reminds us why that – and Antoine Simonin – are important to the wellbeing of our ticking microcosm.

Highlights: Winners at 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève SJX Watches
Piaget  Altiplano Ultimate Concept Nov 13, 2020

Highlights: Winners at 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

Having just taken place in Geneva and broadcast live, the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) ceremony anointed most of the year’s best watches. Whittled down from a large selection to candidates that were evaluated by an all-Swiss jury instead of the usual cosmopolitan mix due to travel restrictions, eighteen watches (and one watchmaker) received prizes. A handful of them are worth a look as worthy winners – albeit winning by default in some of the less competitive categories – as well as a notable watch that did not win but should have. Awarded to the best watch of the contest, the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix, went to the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept. The thinnest mechanical watch on the market, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) is the culmination of all the progress in ultra-thin watchmaking over the last several decades. At an unreal 2 mm high, the AUC pushes engineering to the cutting edge, albeit at an extremely high price. While there were other watches in the competition that could reasonably be candidates for the Aiguille d’Or, the AUC has earned it. The Piaget AUC Complications and revelations Another prestigious award is the Horological Revelation Prize, which is awarded at the discretion of the jury to watch made by a nascent brand. It went to the Petermann Bédat 1967, unquestionably one of the highlights of independent watchmaking this year. Well deserving of the prize, the 1967 is simply marvellous (we explain why here). Thoug...

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ ‘Retrospective: 2000 – 2020’ SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5970. And Nov 5, 2020

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips’ ‘Retrospective: 2000 – 2020’

Taking place this weekend as a live auction with only cameras, telephones, and online bidding, Retrospective: 2000 – 2020 is a thematic sale that happens the day after Phillips’ Geneva watch auction. The second sale curated with Blackbird, both the publisher of a watch magazine as well as the agent for Ferrari in Hong Kong, Retrospective: 2000 – 2020 is self explanatory: contemporary wristwatches produced in the past 20 years. The 95 lots that make up the sale are a selection of the important, interesting, and intriguing from the last two decades, including obvious candidates like the Rolex Daytona and Patek Philippe ref. 5970. And the sale also includes notable watches that usually go under the radar, like the Breguet Classique Chronometrie 7727 with magnetic balance pivots (which is possibly the most accurate Swiss-made mechanical watch of the 21st century). The Breguet Classique Chronometrie 7727 (lot 258) Importantly, the line up also encompasses a diverse selection of independent watchmaking, reflecting the rise of these niche watchmakers. Here’s a roundup of highlights from independent watchmakers, which include the Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary and the ultra-rare Opus Eleven. The selection includes the worthy Seiko Credor Eichi II and Lange 1 25th Anniversary. Neither comes from an independent watchmaker, but both are as close as it gets for establishment brands. Lot 206 – Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary No. 00/20 Philippe Dufour...

Auction Watch: Double F.P. Journe Pisa Orologeria Editions at Ineichen SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin once created limited editions Oct 30, 2020

Auction Watch: Double F.P. Journe Pisa Orologeria Editions at Ineichen

Once a leading auctioneer for high-end pocket watches in the late 20th century, Zurich-based Ineichen is now also specialised in wristwatches. Its upcoming November auction includes an intriguing pair of F.P. Journe watches – a Resonance and tourbillon naturally – both from limited editions made for Pisa Orologeria. Located in Milan, Pisa is one of Italy’s more storied watch retailers. It is a family-run business and prominent enough that a good number of watch brands – ranging from A. Lange & Söhne to Vacheron Constantin – once created limited editions exclusively for Pisa, back when brands used to do such things. Both F.P. Journe watches going on the block at Ineichen were limited editions made for Pisa, and share the same uncommon silver-and-grey livery. The first watch is a Resonance made to mark the 60th anniversary of Pisa in 2000. It has standard 40 mm case and rose gold movement, with an extremely unusual dial. Made of white gold, the dial features dark grey, ruthenium-plated sub-dials with white markings, an unusual combination then and still today. Only five were made, and only one has been sold publicly before – another example sold for 106,250 Swiss francs at Christie’s Geneva in 2015, which was then a record price. The market for F.P. Journe watches has since taken a turbocharged ride upwards, which means the 2015 price will probably be left in the distance at next month’s auction. The next Pisa edition was a follow up to the Resonance. It’...

VIDEO: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold with 240 hours power reserve is testosterone-drenched tech at its absolute finest Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Oct 6, 2020

VIDEO: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold with 240 hours power reserve is testosterone-drenched tech at its absolute finest

Editor’s note: As I go to post this review, something very sad just dawned on me. It’s been over three years since I’ve had a holiday as long as the power reserve of this watch. Which is 10 days. Ten. Days. Which means this watch would still be ticking after one wind upon my return … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold with 240 hours power reserve is testosterone-drenched tech at its absolute finest appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why I bought the 42mm Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph with blue dial (and drank my own Kool-Aid) Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Aug 22, 2020

Why I bought the 42mm Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph with blue dial (and drank my own Kool-Aid)

Editor’s note: Thor’s story earlier today about the battle of the Girard-Perregaux Laureatos sent me back in time to my own Laureato experience. And it’s not an entirely happy one. Because it involves me doing perhaps my biggest ever U-turn. But the story gets even more awkward. Because shortly after writing this review, and then reading the … ContinuedThe post Why I bought the 42mm Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph with blue dial (and drank my own Kool-Aid) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How Dials Are Made At The Glashütte Original Dial Factory In Pforzheim, Germany Quill & Pad
Glashütte Original Dial Factory Jun 30, 2020

How Dials Are Made At The Glashütte Original Dial Factory In Pforzheim, Germany

Glashütte Original dial factory manager Michael Baumann guided Bhanu Chropa through the complex process of manufacturing dials. He explained that depending on the complications of a given watch model, it takes 70 to 80 steps to manufacture a perfect dial. See for yourself in this interesting personal tour behind the scenes in Pforzheim, Germany.