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Bienne

Bilingual Swiss city; HQ of Rolex (1919), Omega (1880), Tissot, Movado, Mido, ETA SA, Nivarox-FAR.

Oracle Time Unveils The Ball Engineer II Dazzle Fratello
Christopher Ward Dune Shoreline was so Jun 12, 2025

Oracle Time Unveils The Ball Engineer II Dazzle

Following up on its 2024 inaugural collaboration watch, Oracle Time releases its sophomore effort, the Ball Engineer II Dazzle. Last year’s wonderful Christopher Ward Dune Shoreline was so successful that Christopher Ward spun off the 100-piece limited edition into a bona fide collection. With the wind in its sails, Oracle Time now jazzes up the […] Visit Oracle Time Unveils The Ball Engineer II Dazzle to read the full article.

First Look – The new Seiko Presage Classic Series Urushi Dial SPB499 Monochrome
Seiko Presage Classic Series Urushi Jun 11, 2025

First Look – The new Seiko Presage Classic Series Urushi Dial SPB499

With its Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship, Seiko has been exploring multiple facets of Japanese culture. Whether it’s about the materials used to create the dials, the designs inspired by antique Japanese textiles or ceramics or some of the earliest watches done by the brand, Presage is all about refined execution. On the topic of traditional […]

Breitling Refreshes the Superocean Heritage Collection Worn & Wound
Breitling Refreshes Jun 11, 2025

Breitling Refreshes the Superocean Heritage Collection

For the first time since 2017, Breitling is refreshing their Superocean Heritage collection. This line has always been something of an under the radar gem. Breitling of course is known for their pilot and aviation themed watches, which run a wide gamut between classical (the Navitimer) and tech-forward contemporary (all of the ana-digi releases through the years). Divers (or “sea watches” as they’re referred to in the latest press materials) seem a little outside the brand’s wheelhouse at first blush, but of course as an historic maker of tool watches, it makes sense to dip into this ultra competitive genre. The Superocean Heritage has always felt like one of the more tasteful vintage inspired sports watch lines, and while they aren’t discussed as frequently as something like the Black Bay family of watches, the collection has always had its fans and the watches themselves are undeniably refined and capture exactly the vibe they intend to.  This is a full refresh that seems to be focused squarely on variety and appealing to a broad segment of the “sea watch” market. The new Superocean Heritage models come in a total of four sizes: 44mm, 42mm, 40mm, and 36mm. In addition, there’s a Superocean Heritage Chronograph that comes in at 42mm. The 40mm+ three-handers all use the still new B31 caliber, Breitling’s first exclusive three-hand manufacture caliber.  Dials across the collection can be had in black, blue, and green. All feature color matched ceramic be...

Breitling Superocean Heritage Review Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Jun 11, 2025

Breitling Superocean Heritage Review

The Breitling Superocean Heritage has been around since 2007 and stands as one of the brand’s most popular offerings due to its classical, vintage-inspired design and broad range of size options. The collection was updated in 2017, with the Superocean Heritage II, and in 2025 we have gotten the third major update to the collection that now includes improvements throughout as well as the use of the B31 movement. And perhaps most appealing is the long-awaited introduction of a 40mm case size. While Breitling refers to the Superocean Heritage as a “Sea Watch,” these are all as robust and resilient as any dive watch. There are a total of six watches in the new Breitling Superocean Heritage collection, all of which have 200 meters of water resistance: the 42mm chronograph outfitted with the manufacture Caliber 01; three time-and-date models in 40mm, 42mm, and 44mm case sizes outfitted with the B31 movement; and a 36mm time-and-date model outfitted with the Caliber 10 automatic movement. The sixth is a special limited edition done with surfer and longtime brand ambassador Kelly Slater, who co-designed a 40mm model. Before getting into these models, let’s discuss what’s new overall for this update of the Superocean Heritage. The Updates And Changes First off, you’ll notice the sharper hour markers and especially that new 12 o’clock marker, which has a circle with a sharp index cutting through it - a throwback to the original Superocean. I think this will likely b...

Editorial: My Obsession with German Neo-Vintage Watches Under $5,000 Worn & Wound
Rolex Datejust Jun 10, 2025

Editorial: My Obsession with German Neo-Vintage Watches Under $5,000

Vintage watches remain ever popular in the watch collector’s journey. There are serious collectors who remain focused on buying only vintage. Since the pandemic, my inbox has been flooded with auction houses and vintage dealers trying to one-up each other by selling the most curated “once in a lifetime” or most expensive vintage piece. I have nothing against the sellers and buyers, especially if they can vouch for the authenticity and pay for the repairs, they deserve my appreciation. Personally, I am apprehensive of owning vintage watches at my current point of collecting. I owned a few vintage watches in my early days as a collector, most of them were bargain finds on eBay that eventually stopped working or I ended up trading, except for one expensive Rolex Datejust that had to be serviced. Ultimately, service on the Datejust was as expensive as the watch, including Rolex replacing the dial to a different color which I hated and ended up selling for a loss. I know it was a rookie mistake, but that was the end of vintage watches for me. After that experience, I stuck to buying either new watches from retailers or pre-owned watches from other collectors. As it happened, my work took me to Germany often, and there I discovered a whole new world of neo-vintage watches. Before I get deeper into what specific “affordable” neo-vintage watches a couple of my collector friends and I recommend, I should briefly define what neo-vintage watches are and why they are easier ...

Taking A Fresh Look At The 39.5mm Glashütte Original SeaQ Fratello
Glashütte Original SeaQ It’s hard Jun 10, 2025

Taking A Fresh Look At The 39.5mm Glashütte Original SeaQ

It’s hard to believe that the Glashütte Original SeaQ debuted back in 2019 as part of the Spezialist collection. The watches were added to the permanent catalog, honoring the brand’s Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 from 1969. Since the initial release, new dial colors and materials have been added. For the smallest offering in the […] Visit Taking A Fresh Look At The 39.5mm Glashütte Original SeaQ to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Impressive Citizen Zenshin 60 Automatic Collection Fratello
Citizen Zenshin 60 Automatic Collection Jun 8, 2025

Hands-On With The Impressive Citizen Zenshin 60 Automatic Collection

Citizen has been knocking it out of the park the last two years. We have seen a constant stream of interesting releases. The best thing about them is that the prices are affordable, and what you get for the money is almost unbeatable. Sure, not every model will be to your liking, but Citizen has […] Visit Hands-On With The Impressive Citizen Zenshin 60 Automatic Collection to read the full article.

Hands-On: Suspend Your Purism And Enjoy Two New Colors Of The Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38mm Fratello
Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38mm Jun 7, 2025

Hands-On: Suspend Your Purism And Enjoy Two New Colors Of The Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38mm

The Hamilton Khaki Field Auto has been a gateway watch for many seasoned collectors. It is also one of those rare watches that serve that role without owners “growing” out of it. You’ll find it sitting proudly among Rolexes and Omegas, holding its own in so many enthusiasts’ collections. Today, we get two new colorways, […] Visit Hands-On: Suspend Your Purism And Enjoy Two New Colors Of The Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38mm to read the full article.

Introducing – Tradition Meets Modernity, With The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gold Enamel Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gold Enamel Jun 6, 2025

Introducing – Tradition Meets Modernity, With The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gold Enamel

Much has been said about the Ulysse Nardin Freak since its creation in 2001, mostly about its revolutionary concept and the introduction of silicon in watchmaking. Since the very first, down to the very last, the Freak has explored many directions, from even more complex than it already was when launched, to more whimsical and […]

[VIDEO] A Closer Look at Ming: Our Favorite Designs and Personal Pieces Worn & Wound
Ming Jun 6, 2025

[VIDEO] A Closer Look at Ming: Our Favorite Designs and Personal Pieces

Ming launched their first watch, the 17.01, back in the summer of 2017. That watch sold out quickly, as did subsequent watches, and over a relatively short span of the time, the brand achieved an almost reverential status among affordable independent and micro-brands. The watches, from the beginning, have been stylish, highly distinctive, and have pushed design boundaries.  Our thoughts on Ming have evolved along with the brand itself. While the 17.01 is still easily recognizable as quintessential Ming, it’s remarkable to consider how much the brand has accomplished since that watch’s debut. Through rigorous roadmapping and experimentation, Ming has evolved into a significant indie brand with an ultra-clear design language. In the brand’s earliest days, it would have been easy to lump them in with other small brands finding their way in a competitive watch landscape. But over time, and particularly with their most recent crop of releases, it’s become clear that their ambition and ingenuity set them apart.  Some examples? Both are discussed in this video, but the use of white emitting lume on the 37.02 Minimalist and the impressive water resistance of the 37.09 are both illustrative of ways in which the brand is willing to invest in finding new ways to make their watches. The creative use of luminescent material has been a hallmark of Ming watches from the very beginning, and they’re rightly proud of figuring out a way to mix lume that truly emits white, somethi...

Rolex Nicknames Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Jun 5, 2025

Rolex Nicknames Explained

When it comes to Rolex, nicknames for its watches are almost as plentiful as the watches themselves – and often so esoteric that even avid watch enthusiasts can be perplexed by them. Can you tell a Kermit from a Hulk, for example? Or a John Player from a John Mayer? And would you be able to identify a Thunderbird or a Texano in the rare chance you’d come across one these days? Rolex’s legions of fans have been bestowing colorful and often esoteric nicknames on its most noteworthy watches for decades, and there are more of them than you probably even realize. Here’s a mostly alphabetical primer on the top 20 Rolex nicknames you’re likely to hear (and maybe even use) regularly in today’s buzzing watch-enthusiast community.  Batman GMT-Master II Ref. 116710BLNR Debuting in 2013, this Rolex GMT-Master II reference garnered the nickname “Batman” for its first-of-its-kind bicolor Cerachrom bezel in shades of blue and black, which undoubtedly brought to mind for many enthusiasts the signature colors of DC Comics’ dark-garbed guardian of Gotham City. This “Batman” moniker is now applied primarily to the model on the three-link Oyster bracelet.  Batgirl GMT-Master II Ref. 126710BLNR As alluded to directly above, the “Batgirl” name has been applied to the Ref. 126710BLNR of the aforementioned GMT-Master II, introduced in 2019, which differs from the original “Batman” only in its choice of a Jubilee bracelet rather than an Oyster. Is one more masculine...

Zenith Returns to the Shadows with New Defy Revival Diver and Defy Extreme Diver Variants Worn & Wound
Zenith Returns Jun 5, 2025

Zenith Returns to the Shadows with New Defy Revival Diver and Defy Extreme Diver Variants

The return of the dive watch to the Zenith collection has been one of the real highlights for the brand over the last year or so. It’s actually kind of crazy to consider that Zenith went so long without a true diver in their lineup, being that they’ve been one of the foundational pillars on which the whole industry saw so much growth over the last decade. It would be a little like an auto manufacturer refusing to build an SUV of some kind – why not get a piece of this segment of the market that an enormous number of people are interested in? It’s particularly noteworthy, I think, that when Zenith did decide to get back into the diver game, they did it on two fronts: with a tribute to their divers of the past, alongside a forward looking contemporary piece. Griffin Bartsch, across multiple reviews and videos, has done a nice job of breaking down both the Defy Extreme Diver and the Defy Revival Diver, watches that are very much two sides of the same coin. This week, Zenith expands their dive watch portfolio a bit further, iterating on both of these platforms via their “Shadow” series.  The Shadow watches have been enthusiast favorites since their inception. We’ve previously seen both a Chronomaster Revival Shadow as well as a Defy Revival Shadow, both of which strip down the essence of a watch into a chilly, micro-blasted titanium tool. The matte finish and darker tones of the cases are really appealing. They have a way of making a watch that is otherwise virt...

In-Depth: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 250th Anniversary Tourbillon SJX Watches
Breguet Jürgensen Pratt Jun 5, 2025

In-Depth: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 250th Anniversary Tourbillon

Led by Kari Voutilainen and backed by an American collector, Urban Jürgensen has been revived in grand style. The brand’s inaugural watch is undoubtedly one of this year’s most surprising launches, the UJ-1 250th Anniversary Watch. The first of three new models, the UJ-1 is a limited edition that pays tribute to the Oval, a pocket watch created by Peter Baumberger and Derek Pratt that is perhaps brand’s greatest timepiece. Having been dormant for a while and a little confused in terms of focus (including jumping on the fad of an integrated bracelet sports watch), the brand is now running full steam ahead and going back to its high horology roots with a trio of models, led by the UJ-1 that lives up to expectations, and then some. Initial thoughts The UJ-1 sets the tone for what is to come from Urban Jürgensen by Kari Voutilainen. Even before turning the watch over and admiring its movement, the execution of the dial hints at the quality within, reflecting the fact that Mr Voutilainen is an undisputed master of guillochage. At first sight the piece shows an engine-turned face that is tastefully restrained. The collective style of Breguet, Jürgensen, Pratt and Voutilainen can be immediately discerned from the dial. While wearing all the marks of traditional engine-turned dials, the proportions, the typeface and the “zero” marker make it look a little updated and almost leaning on the minimalistic.   The subtle change suggests that the brand is truly going into a...

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Modern Rolex Daytonas Fratello
Rolex Daytonas Rolex only makes Jun 5, 2025

Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Modern Rolex Daytonas

Rolex only makes one chronograph, and it’s called the Daytona. This has been a statement of fact since the first model bearing the name was created in 1963. Okay, fine; there’s one notable exception, the Yacht-Master II. But we’ll leave that as a topic for another day. Today on Fratello Talks, it’s all about our […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Favorite Modern Rolex Daytonas to read the full article.

Stowa Updates the Antea Classic KS Worn & Wound
Stowa Jun 4, 2025

Stowa Updates the Antea Classic KS

Bauhaus design, though never really leaving the spotlight, is certainly in a bit of a renaissance these days, with its focus on stylistic simplicity and function appealing to contemporary audiences just as successfully as it did during its heyday a full century ago. German watchmaker Stowa, however, is taking the history and legacy of the style in a more defined direction, with their latest Antea Classic KS in rose gold and anthracite.  According to the brand, they’ve been making Bahaus-style watches in Germany since 1937, and argue that perhaps the State School of Design (the originator of Bauhaus, which existed from 1919 to 1933) was a more direct influence on watchmakers of the 1930s than previously thought. In celebration of that marriage of influential German design and horology, Stowa has been producing a modernized version of its first Bauhaus watch since 2004. The new Antea Classic KS references continue that tightly-wound history, with new touches to appeal to current trends in watchmaking and design.  Since the original 1937 model wore a copper dial in a chrome-plated case, Stowa has reintroduced a version of that color combination with the new references. Both feature a highly-polished 35.5mm (44.6mm lug-to-lug) stainless steel case, which envelops the sunburst dial in either rose gold or anthracite. Temperature-blued steel hands sweep around the dial, pointing to thin and tall white Roman numerals with no indexes between each hour, giving the dial a very cl...

A Taste of the Infinite: Hands-On with the J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure Worn & Wound
Jun 4, 2025

A Taste of the Infinite: Hands-On with the J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure

When Zach Kazan told me the other day that a couple of watches by J.N. Shapiro had arrived at the office, I did a double-take. Not privy to the conversations he had been having regarding an article in progress, finding out that two watches by this revered independent were in the office was an exciting surprise. Although I’ve come across perhaps two in the wild I can recall (one a sample of the Resurgence and the other a custom piece for a collector), they aren’t the type of watches that get sent around very often, being rare and high-end. It turned out, perhaps in an even more exciting turn of events, that these weren’t your ordinary, if such a thing exists, J.N. Shapiros; rather, they were samples of a new line called the Infinity Series Pure. A new duo of watches meant to open, or re-open, the brand to a broader audience of collectors. Though still highly limited in nature, these watches aren’t one-offs or custom pieces. Instead, they are serially produced, albeit in only 18 pieces per color, and feature in-house, engine-turned guilloché dials and handmade, finished precious metal hands. As such, although intended as a more accessible model, the term is relative, and the Infinity Series Pures are priced at $26,000, placing them in an interesting competitive space for independent brands. Back to the point of them being in the office, I couldn’t help but spend time with these watches. And, thus, also form some opinions on them. So, although my time was limited, ...

Introducing – The Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture, now with Light Blue MoP Dial Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture now Jun 4, 2025

Introducing – The Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture, now with Light Blue MoP Dial

The tourbillon has long been one of the long list of complications developed internally by Frederique Constant, used as a stand-alone feature or even paired with a perpetual calendar. And, in classic style for the brand, often with a price that’s well below the industry average. A couple of years ago, in line with its […]

Introducing – The NYC-Special Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jun 3, 2025

Introducing – The NYC-Special Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle

Hublot’s Big Bang Meca-10 series was first introduced in 2016, and since then, the line has been known for its original design and 240-hour power reserve and an in-house movement that exposes its mechanism through a skeletonized display. Over the years, the series has been interpreted in various materials and sizes, including titanium, ceramic, carbon […]

Hands-On: the Trafford Watch Co. Daytripper Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko 9F models but all Jun 3, 2025

Hands-On: the Trafford Watch Co. Daytripper

I have the unfortunate obligation to begin this review with a shocking admission: Zach Kazan was right. Some time ago, during one of my back-to-back travel periods where I jumped through time zones, I had a spirited debate with our Managing Editor. I maintained that I not only enjoyed having a GMT, but needed one to keep my timing straight; while Zach insisted that I was wrong. In the past, a traveller’s GMT had been an invaluable tool in the workplace, keeping me mindful of editors working in other time zones. Yet, Zach argued that all you needed was an independently adjustable hour hand and some basic math skills. If you are working across time zones, do the math. If you are traveling through them, change the hour without messing with minutes and seconds. Immediately upon landing back in New York from a trip to London, I started looking for an Omega Aqua Terra.  During my search, it struck me as odd that this jumping hours complication (without an associated GMT) was not more widely seen, and never really on the more attainable side of things. Sure, you can find it in models from Omega, parts of Citizen’s The Citizen collection, the Ming 17.09, and newer Grand Seiko 9F models; but all of those will set you back a few thousand dollars. That is, until now. As if from some stroke of divine intervention, I received word of a new watch coming from Trafford Watch Co., utilizing a clever movement alteration to achieve this complication at a much more attainable price point...

Introducing: The Biatec Majestic Chronoshop 09 With A Color-Changing Embossed Dial Fratello
May 31, 2025

Introducing: The Biatec Majestic Chronoshop 09 With A Color-Changing Embossed Dial

The Biatec Majestic Chronoshop 09 is a limited edition of just nine watches, and it’s the result of bringing together one Slovak and two Czech watch-loving parties. Young Slovak watch brand Biatec started its operations in 2016. Chronoshop has been in business since 2007, and journalist Jan Lidmaňský has been writing about watches for 20 […] Visit Introducing: The Biatec Majestic Chronoshop 09 With A Color-Changing Embossed Dial to read the full article.

Why I Bought A Five-Digit Rolex GMT-Master II (Again) Fratello
Rolex GMT-Master II Again It May 30, 2025

Why I Bought A Five-Digit Rolex GMT-Master II (Again)

It must have been 1999 or 2000 when the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 16710 was incredibly high on my wishlist. I even had the official Rolex advertisement for this model as the wallpaper on my Windows desktop. But I was a student, and the Rolex GMT-Master II was out of reach. The Rolex GMT-Master II […] Visit Why I Bought A Five-Digit Rolex GMT-Master II (Again) to read the full article.

The Collector's Series – An Italian Collector on His Bespoke OISA 1937 Watch, Marking the Return of Movements Made in Italy Monochrome
May 29, 2025

The Collector's Series – An Italian Collector on His Bespoke OISA 1937 Watch, Marking the Return of Movements Made in Italy

It’s something we’ve told over and over again. Watchmaking isn’t only Swiss. Watchmaking is global and has, historically, been present all over the world. Surely, with industrialisation and the effects of the Quartz crisis, three giant hubs have emerged: Switzerland for high-end watches, Japan with its immense conglomerates and China, the silent factory… Italy surely […]

Cartier Tank Louis Review Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier May 28, 2025

Cartier Tank Louis Review

The Cartier Tank is one of the most thoroughly and exhaustively discussed watches of all time. At one point or another, the Cartier Tank has been worn by JFK, Princess Diana, Ralph Lauren, Michelle Obama, Muhammad Ali, Andy Warhol… the list really goes on and on. The first Cartier Tank was a prototype worn by none other than U.S. General "Black Jack" Pershing, who was the commander of the Allied forces in World War I. And while the collection was formally debuted with the Tank Normale, it would be the Cartier Tank Louis that would go on to be synonymous with the iconic rectangular-cased watch. Of course, there is so much history and lore to get lost in with the Tank and our own resident expert, Mark Bernardo, did a complete job of it, which you can read here. The Cartier Tank Louis is an Art Deco classic that has inspired countless imitators but, as with all great things, there is the real thing and then there’s everything else.  Cartier Tank Louis Case  The contemporary Cartier Tank Louis comes in a few different sizes, starting with the mini quartz which is 16.5mm wide, 6.2mm thick, and 24mm tall; to the small mechanical, which is 22mm wide, 6.8mm thick, and 29.5mm tall; to the size I will be reviewing here, which is the large manual-winding model, which is 25.5mm wide, 6.6mm thick, and 33.7mm tall. There is also the automatic Tank Louis that was introduced at this year’s edition of Watches & Wonders, which is 27.7mm wide, 8.18mm thick, and 38.1mm tall. When mos...

Hands-On With The Special Yema Superman Tropical CMM.10 Limited Edition Fratello
Yema May 28, 2025

Hands-On With The Special Yema Superman Tropical CMM.10 Limited Edition

Yema’s Superman is undoubtedly my favorite model in the French brand’s extensive collection. I have enjoyed trying many of the Superman versions released in the past few years. My absolute favorite has long been the Superman FAF Search And Rescue Limited Edition, which came out in 2022. That watch presented a retro style with a […] Visit Hands-On With The Special Yema Superman Tropical CMM.10 Limited Edition to read the full article.