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Time+Tide
Farer has upgraded its GMT Bezel line with two sizes, four dial options and heaps of personality as always. The post Farer brings us a new GMT in two sizes and four colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Montoir is a fairly new microbrand that launched its first dive watch in late 2023 and now has a follow-up on Kickstarter with new dial and bezel colours. We were impressed with Montoir’s first release as the watches were stylish, had serious 200m water-resistance and included a well-proven Sellita automatic. While the general formula remains […]
Monochrome
The Defy Skyline is Zenith’s answer to the trend of elegant sports watches with integrated bracelets. Introduced in 2022, it has become one of the pillars of the brand’s collections. With its octagonal case and dodecagonal bezel, its design is a modern nod to the 1969 Defy. The Defy Skyline chronograph joined the lineup in […]
Monochrome
Rado began experimenting with innovative materials in the early 1960s, resulting in the Diastar and its futuristic helmet-like case made from scratch-resistant carbide tungsten. Since 1986, Rado has employed high-tech ceramic in its creations, obtaining a broader palette of colours and finishes over the years. The True Square, a collection launched in 2020, perpetuates Rado’s […]
SJX Watches
Breitling’s latest take on its signature aviator’s chronograph is the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Cortina Watch, a limited edition for the Singapore-based retailer. The 50-piece run retains the classic Navitimer design featuring the hallmark slide rule bezel, but with a striking dial in satiné translucid purple, essentially translucent lacquer. The purple dial is matched with red gold appliqués that include the Breitling emblem, contrasting against the dial’s vibrant hue. Initial thoughts Breitling’s newest offering is one of many (maybe too many) dial variations within the Navitimer collection, such as the Navitimer Singapore Airlines Editions and the Navitimer B01 “S&S; 10th Anniversary”, but it’s distinctive for the vivid dial colour that is seldom used by Breitling. Admittedly, the colour is hardly traditional for a pilot’s watch, but it is appealing and refreshes the familiar Navitimer look. This edition is based on the 43 mm model, which some might find too big. The 41 mm Navitimer, which is also identical in size to the vintage original, is more wearable. The new Navitimer is priced at S$13,980 (equivalent to about US$10,000), which is comparable to the regular production version. Given the high-spec, in-house chronograph movement, the Navitimer B01 is reasonably priced. Even though the limited editions are arguably too numerous, this edition manages to stand out. Exquisite movement Dial colour aside, the Cortina edition is identical to the standar...
SJX Watches
First launched in 18k yellow gold a little over two years ago, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 finally debuts in stainless steel. Sticking to the familiar vintage-remake template established by the gold model, the 222 retains the familiar “bottle cap” bezel and applied Maltese cross emblem, but in brushed steel. Like the gold model, the 222 “Jumbo” in steel is executed to a high level of fit and finish – certainly superior to that of the vintage original – and it’s presented in the classic livery of a matte blue dial (great) and faux-vintage lume (not so much). More importantly, the steel 222 substantially more affordable than the gold version, about half as expensive in fact. Initial thoughts The 222 in gold was well received at launch in 2022; it helped that the roll-out took place when integrated bracelet sports watches were all the rage. That success made the steel version a certainty. Vacheron Constantin (VC) took a little longer than I expected to unveil the steel 222, but now it’s finally here. The watch is, admittedly, predictable. It has all of the familiar elements found in the vintage originals and then the gold reissue. But it is still appealing, because the quality of execution is high and the proportions of the watch are good. Compare this to a vintage 222 and the improvement in build quality, particularly of the bracelet, is immediately obvious. Although the steel 222 is compact by modern standards, it has the refined quality of a con...
Worn & Wound
IWC holds a special place in my heart. One of my first “ultra-performance” sports watches was an IWC Aquatimer GST on a matching titanium bracelet. This was a 2000-meter water-resistant dive watch that featured a push-down locking unidirectional bezel and a mix of Luminova and tritium luminescence. This was in the late 1990s, and shortly after, I was tasked with reviewing their new IWC TZC UTC Pilot Watch, reference 3251. This model featured a sublime 5-piece bracelet with a push-button easy link removal system still in use today. It also had a display opening on the dial indicating a second time zone. Over the past twenty years, I have had the opportunity to get to know many IWC watches. Last year, one of their releases particularly caught my attention. While their pilot series has generally been quite conservative, they have recently experimented with different dial colors, but nothing like this release. As a Mercedes F1 team sponsor, IWC released a Petronas-AMG-themed Pilot Chronograph featuring bright Petronas green dial accents. This was a 41mm version of their standard day-date chronograph featuring their in-house caliber 69385 automatic movement in a grade 5 titanium case. For 2025, IWC has released the Mark XX Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS, essentially a time-and-date version of their previously issued chronograph. This one also features a grade 5 titanium case, but this time with a solid case back. Dimensions are 40mm across the case, with a slender height of only 10....
Teddy Baldassarre
Just announced by Seiko is a pair of limited-edition Prospex watches done in collaboration with Los Angeles Dodgers phenomenon Shohei Ohtani. The SBEJ023 and SBEJ025 are both takes on the 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT, which was released back in 2023 as the first mechanical GMT in the Prospex collection. These two diver GMT watches will come in the iconic Dodger Blue colorway, with the SBEJ023 having a blue bezel with black dial and the SBEJ025 sporting a blue bezel with contrasting white dial. While not totally on theme here, I recall Ohtani wore a Grand Seiko SBGJ217 back in 2023 when he signed with the Dodgers. For a little context, these aren’t the first Seiko watches done in collaboration with Ohtani. The first was the Prospex Diver SBDC191, which came in out in 2023, while he still played for L.A.'s other baseball team, the Angels of the American League. That watch had the red seconds hand and dial text as well as Ohtani’s signature on the clasp. These new watches have the Ohtani’s number 17 highlighted in red on the GMT rehaut and his signature engraved on the bracelet clasp. The SBEJ023 and SBEJ025 share the same basics as the standard 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT, recognizable for its vintage-inspired, Marine Master-esque design. Measuring 42mm wide, 12.9mm thick, and with a 48.6mm lug-to-lug measurement, these watches are water-resistant to 200 meters and boast a very well-made ceramic bezel. The real GMT nerds will be a little disappointed with the lack of ...
SJX Watches
The Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 is Panerai’s fourth LAB-ID “concept” watch, but probably the most interesting watch in its current catalogue from a technical standpoint. It’s a big, complex watch – inside the 49 mm ceramised titanium case is a movement with six mainsprings. More accurately, it has a conventional movement with twin barrels, plus an illumination module with four of its own mainsprings that generate enough to light up the dial, hands, and bezel for a lengthy 30 minutes. Initial thoughts For the most part I prefer traditionally-styled Panerai watches, either the vintage remakes or the 1990s-type 44 mm models (though I admit the brand’s recent calendar complications are done well). The Submersible Elux hardly resembles a vintage Panerai, but is one of the rare modern creations that is appealing, both in terms of concept and execution, but not so much price-wise. The Submersible Elux is both ridiculous and cool. It’s enormous at 49 mm and also costs just under US$100,000. But it’s arguably the greatest evolution of the historical Panerai speciality of glow-in-the-dark dive watches. And the price is explained in part by the small scale of production in Switzerland. Granted, at this price the PAM01800 isn’t a practical diving instrument, but the technology inside is interesting and notably sophisticated compared to past attempts at light-up watches, all of which suffered from impractically short illumination or power reserve. In time, the te...
SJX Watches
Zenith has given its 1/100th-of-a-second El Primero 21 an unusual attire – pusher protectors and a dodecagonal bezel in tiger’s eye mineral stone. Matched with a dial featuring tiger stripes and green accents, the Defy Extreme Jungle retains the trademark double balance wheels of the model. The movement features a conventional timekeeping balance operating at 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz), and a smaller regulator for the chronograph that beats 10 times as fast, 360,000 beats per hour or 50 Hz, enabling the chronograph to record times with a resolution of up to to 1/100th of a second. Initial thoughts I have long thought that the Defy Extreme was too similar to other, more famous oversized sports chronographs, that is, until I actually got to try on the Defy Extreme Jungle in person. The new Defy still evokes other designs, but it is finely executed, with the minerals stone inlay being notably well done. At the same time, the tiger’s eye elements add some originality to the design, so this easily stands out as the most interesting model in the Defy line. The tiger’s eye components, especially since they are prominently positioned, are likely more fragile than the same on the equivalent titanium model, but they add texture and colour so are arguably worth the sacrifice of practicality. At US$26,900, the Defy Extreme Jungle is pricier than the average Zenith chronograph, but still a reasonable proposition given the exotic material and 1/100th of a second movement. Tige...
SJX Watches
Continuing the development of scaled-down versions of its signature wristwatch, Ressence unveils the Type 9. Characterised by a 39 mm titanium case – the smallest model in the brand’s current catalogue – the Type 9 is similar to the Type 8 in being a time-only displaying just hours and minutes, with no seconds. In a first for the brand, the minute scale has been repositioned from the dial to the fixed bezel that now sports a five-minute scale. Initial thoughts The Type 9 is a logical evolution of the brand’s entry-level model that retains the trademark “planetary” time display but in a smaller, simpler format. With a diameter of only 39 mm and short lugs, the Type 9 is more wearable. Though the Type 9 is the most affordable watch in the line-up, the new model does not compromise on aesthetics, maintaining the distinctive look and feel. Priced at CHF12,500, the Type 9 is CHF1,000 less expensive than the next-most-affordable model, the Type 8. For me, it is an ideal Ressence wristwatch that combines a perfect proportions with affordability. Arguably the only downside of the Type 9 is that it adds to the ever-growing catalogue of fairly similar models. The overlap between the Types 8 and 9 are obvious and possibly confusing. Perfect size In traditional Ressence style, the case of the Type 9 has no crown. Instead time-setting and manual winding of the movement is done by rotating the case back. Due to its construction, the case is only water resistant to 10 m, “s...
SJX Watches
IWC’s sports watch with an integrated bracelet, the Ingenieur Automatic 40, now gets a dial in dark blue, arguably the quintessential dial colour for such watches. Modelled on the Ingenieur SL designed by Gérald Genta’s in the 1970s, the modern day Ingenieur was released last year in several dial colours, including black and silver. The new model with a blue dial retains the exact same design, including a bezel secured by five functional screws, an integrated H-link bracelet, and a grid-patterned dial. Initial thoughts As a classic colour for such a watch, the blue dial was long expected. It’s arguably the most appealing Ingenieur, though the titanium model has an edge (at a much, much higher price). While it is hard to find fault in the execution of the Ingenieur, it was released somewhat late, as the fad for integrated bracelets already lost steam last year. This new addition is arriving even later, though the upside is it will be more easily available than before. The blue dial model is priced the same as the earlier versions, making it a little expensive considering the entry-level movement inside. Most sports watches with integrated bracelets in the same price segment rely on more sophisticated calibres. Textured blue The new version has specs identical to its siblings in the collection. The stainless steel case is 40 mm in diameter and 10.8 mm thick. Featuring brushed surfaces with polished bevels, the case has the 1970s Ingenieur elements of a circular bezel ...
Monochrome
German watchmaking brand Hanhart has etched a commendable place in watchmaking history for itself, primarily through its very good stopwatches and chronograph watches. While most attention goes to the 417 ES, the vintage-inspired pilot’s chronograph with its red-marked fluted bezel, red pusher and bicompax dial layout, there’s plenty more to the brand than just that. […]
SJX Watches
Having unveiled its first Vianney Halter collaboration in 2020, Louis Erard now follows up with the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II that’s notably superior in style and details. Modelled on the Antiqua perpetual calendar, the Le Régulateur Vianney Halter II retains the usual Louis Erard regulator format, but smartly tweaked to replicate key elements of the Antiqua, including the rivets on the bezel, case profile, and multi-part dial. The new regulator is offered in two limited editions of 178 pieces each: the one with a silvered dial and gilt chapter rings is available only on Louis Erard’s online store, while the second edition with an inverted dial finish will only be sold at the brand’s retailers around the world. The Louis Erard e-commerce exclusive (left), and the retailer edition Initial thoughts Louis Erard has rolled out numerous collaborations with independent watchmakers. Most of them are convincing tributes to the original, but of varying levels of customisation. A good number of them employ the stock regulator case but with an edition-specific dial, which was the case for the first Vianney Halter collab. The new Vianney Halter regulator, on the other hand, features components unique to this model, giving it a distinctive look. The dial, case, bezel, and case back are all made for this edition, with only the movement being stock. As result, this captures the look and feel of the original watch that inspired it much better than past collabo...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe used to be seen as something like a younger sibling to the classic Fifty Fathoms but after more than a decade in production (of the current iteration, at least) I would now classify it as the more modern sibling. The clean lines and sleek angles work particularly well in what is typically the bulkier category of diver chronographs, let alone flyback chronographs. But, the Bathyscaphe Chronograph Flyback Chronograph seen here, done in a ceramic case and green colorway, manages to exceed expectations and defy any baggage or preconceptions the category may bring with it. One thing you won’t get from the images alone is just how lightweight the watch is, due to its black ceramic case. Ceramic is one of my favorite materials for a watch case (in addition to titanium) not just because of the weight but also the scratch resistance that comes with it. It also looks great, especially contrasted against that wonderfully vibrant green used on the dial and bezel here. Divers' chronographs are a particular challenge because, well, operating a chronograph underwater presents some serious water-resistance issues. That said, Blancpain is confident in its assertion that the chronograph can safely be activated underwater. And for those not familiar, a flyback is significantly more complex than a typical chronograph because it does not have to be stopped before resetting. While we’re on the topic, the F385 caliber deserves some love because it ...
Monochrome
Next year marks the 50th anniversary of the iconic Laureato, first introduced by Girard-Perregaux in 1975. Its distinctive design-centred around a tonneau-shaped case, slim, raised octagonal bezel with circular plinth, and integrated bracelet-has evolved over decades while remaining true to the original spirit, a tradition upheld by the latest releases. The two new time-only Laureato […]
SJX Watches
Perhaps the most recognisable travel watch in history, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master was launched in 1955, just as the world was entering the Jet Age of intercontinental travel. The inaugural GMT-Master model was the ref. 6542 that sported a distinctive bezel colour-coded in red and blue to distinguish day- and night-time. The coloured bezel would go on to become a defining feature of the GMT-Master and iconic within the wider genre of travel watches. Originally made of fragile Plexiglas, the bezel evolved into a robust anodised aluminium insert in 1959, the same year the GMT-Master became the official watch of Pan American World Airways, better known as Pan Am, then the world’s biggest airline. Rolex advertising from the 1950s celebrating the first non-stop transatlantic flight by Pan Am where both pilots wore the GMT-Master The GMT-Master earned iconic status with its functionality and technical excellence, but equal credit goes to the notable personalities individuals wearing a GMT-Master who witnessed, or even made, history. Astronaut Edgar Mitchell wore one on the Apollo 14 mission that landed on the Moon in February 1971. Several United States Air Force pilots set speed records while wearing a GMT-Master, including William J. Knight in 1967. And Val Kilmer sported one while playing Iceman in Top Gun. US Air Force pilot William J. Knight set an all-time speed record of 7,272 km/h (Mach 6.7) on October 3, 1967 in an X-15 rocket plane, while wearing a GMT-Mast...
Deployant
Blancpain has recently expanded its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe line with three new models, each a exemplary daily wearer for the man about town. These new additions include two time-only versions and a flyback chronograph, all housed in ceramic cases.
Fratello
As a fan of GMTs, I will take every opportunity to check out watches that feature my favorite complication. When the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT landed on my desk, I was intrigued. This remake of a rare 1970s watch combines a Super Compressor-styled case with a rotating internal 24-hour GMT bezel. Combined with the charming […] Visit Hands-On With The Charming Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The case, the dial, the movement... They are all solid rose gold [insert drool emoji].The post Got gold? The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph has plenty (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Zenith stole the headlines in 1969 with the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph movement, aptly named ‘El Primero’. With less fanfare, Zenith also launched its heavy-duty Defy watch with an angular octagonal case, groovy orange bakelite bezel, and impressive water-resistance. Nicknamed the ‘vault’, the Defy Plongeur ref. 3648 was a monster of the abyss capable […]
Fratello
The Seiko 5 Sports Denham Limited Edition SRPL35 (or SBSA281) is a limited edition of 2,000 watches. The fundamentals of this fusion watch can be traced back to the famous SKX series, and the details are done in shades of indigo. There are lots of jeans-like hues on the bezel, dial, and strap. And in […] Visit Trying On Some New “Denim” - Hands-On With The Seiko 5 Sports Denham Limited Edition to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
The Seiko Prospex Alpinist Australasia Limited Edition combines rugged functionality with a distinctive design, featuring a dial inspired by the Australian landscape! What We Love: The polished finishing of the case and bezel The red dial has many different layers to it with different patterns and finishing techniques. Great value for money, especially with the increase in power reserve with 6R35 movement and open case back. What We Don’t: The leather strap can be a bit stiff initially Lack of a steel bracelet option for the watch Cyclops date window could be slightly larger to allow for better viewing angles. Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Seiko Alpinist is a timepiece that has gained global recognition for meeting the needs of adventurers. The timepiece has long held a special place in Seiko’s lineup, and it is well known for meeting the needs of mountain climbers and outdoor sports enthusiasts. The Seiko Alpinist was first introduced in 1959, and back then, it was the brand’s first attempt at creating a timepiece specifically designed for mountaineers. During the 1960s and 70s, Japan’s hiking culture was thriving. So Seiko responded by creating a beautiful timepiece that considered what an adventurer’s watch would entail. The timepiece was designed to endure the harsh conditions while still being stylistic! The first Seiko Alpinist released in 1959 was named Laurel Alpinist. The very fi...
Fratello
The Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” has just become the latest addition to the brand’s collection. This titanium GMT watch uses the Pelagos FXD as a base, adding a 24-hour bezel, 24-hour hand, and a new METAS-certified movement. The result is the brand’s most accurate and adventure-ready watch to date. Speaking of dates, this […] Visit Introducing: The New Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Sometimes you just can't wait, and when it comes to getting a Pepsi bezel on your wrist, you don't have to.The post What to do if you want a Pepsi, but you don’t want to wait? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
I always wanted a vintage Yema Superman with the iconic locking bezel, but I could not find one for a long time. Then, when the sudden opportunity for a pre-1963 Yema Skin Diver 660 Feet came, I jumped on it. I didn’t know this would happen, but since the watch landed, I haven’t longed for […] Visit #TBT Flying Into Autumn With The Pre-’63 Yema Skin Diver 660 Feet to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
After a year of ownership, Saad Chaudhry has taken his Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M to the end of the world, a dinner at a yacht club, and the open road as well as the open sea. The polished bezel has scars from doing battle against train commuters and car doors. The clasp has scraped against his keyboard more times than he cares to admit. However the watch still looks remarkably good. Here he explains why he bought it (and kept it) a year after the purchase and whether he would do it all over again.
Deployant
Zenith collaborates with iconic Japanese bag brand Porter to release a fresh take on their Pilot Collection. Two launch models, both LE with ceramic cases.
Worn & Wound
When Christopher Ward announced the C60 Trident Lumière a few weeks back, the emphasis-errr-the spotlight was put on using massive Globolight lume plots on the dial. Twelve individually molded lume-infused ceramic monoliths promised to glow like cartoon uranium studded the dial per hour. A dial they claimed cost them 4x the usual. Well, after a few weeks with the watch, while I can attest that the lume is very impressive, it’s not why the C60 Trident Lumière is successful. Rather, it’s simply because it’s the best-executed tool/sports watch the brand has made, at least that I’ve encountered. The proportions are refined, the finishing is excellent, and the aesthetic is cohesive. The C60 Trident Lumière (just Lumière from here out), like the Twelve X and Bel Canto, demonstrates that Christopher Ward is a brand operating at a level on par with or higher than big Swiss brands at an equivalent price, a function of, but not a given, with their D2C model. However, it’s perhaps more impressive in some respects than those other two watches because it’s not a showpiece. No, the Lumière is a mainline, if higher priced, offering for the brand. Which is to say, it’s a sign of what they can do on a “normal” watch and, thus, perhaps, a sign of what to expect in the future. But, enough hyperbole. Clearly, I am a bit taken with the Lumière, so let’s get into the details. $2390 Review: Christopher Ward’s Best Diver Ever? The C60 Trident Lumière Case Grade 2 ...
Fratello
Three years ago, I had the pleasure of wearing the Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet for a little while. The combination of a 40mm steel case with a characteristic stepped bezel, a classic white dial, and a complete-calendar caliber proved an impressive watch at a competitive price. I wrote that the watch that bucks the retro […] Visit A Monday-Morning Reunion With The Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet to read the full article.
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