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Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man” Time+Tide
Omega May 7, 2021

Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man”

Action heroes are Hollywood’s idealised version of traditional masculinity. There is therefore a powerful effect when big-screen tough guys sport a nice watch as they kick ass, dodge bullets and save the world. With the James Bond franchise, the Broccoli family created paid partnerships with companies like Omega to be featured in Bond’s wardrobe. But … ContinuedThe post Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Andrew, Frank, Wei & RJ pick the 4 best watches under $10k, including IWC, Oris and ‘rapper’s weed’ Time+Tide
Oris May 6, 2021

VIDEO: Andrew, Frank, Wei & RJ pick the 4 best watches under $10k, including IWC, Oris and ‘rapper’s weed’

Recently, myself, Frank from Monochrome, Wei from Revolution and RJ from Fratello got together for a Zoom call that had no loftier intention than to kill our boredom for a couple of hours. The idea was to talk about the winners and losers from Watches & Wonders, the same way we’ve done in the media … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Andrew, Frank, Wei & RJ pick the 4 best watches under $10k, including IWC, Oris and ‘rapper’s weed’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Apr 10, 2021

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL

Most famous for its functional aviator’s watches, most notably the Big Pilot’s Watch, IWC is going even further with the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL, a highly experimental version of the Big Pilot with extreme shock resistance that was tested by the Fracture & Shock Physics Group at Cavendish Laboratory in Cambridge University. The Big Pilot XPL boasts exceptional shock resistance – made possible with advanced and ingenious engineering – and an eye-watering price tag. Initial Thoughts The Big Pilot XPL is certainly an impressive piece of engineering, with its hyper-modern aesthetic being a result of the shock-resistance mechanism within the case. The look is clean and strikingly legible, as a pilot’s watch should be. Despite its looks, the Big Pilot XPL is not even that big. In fact, at 44 mm wide and just over 12 mm thick, it is one of the smaller Big Pilot models to date. This, together with the lightweight Ceratanium case means that it will likely be quite wearable. Highly legible The Big Pilot XPL will retail for CHF80,000, or about US$87,000, an eye-watering price for a time-only IWC, despite all of the engineering inside. However, it might be a bargain from another perspective – this might just be the cheapest watch with a performance comparable to a Richard Mille. That said, ultra-shock resistant watches have rarely performed well commercially, aside from Richard Mille’s multiple creations. In fact, IWC’s sister company, Jaeger-LeCoultre,...

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 SJX Watches
Panerai  seem Apr 9, 2021

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch 43

One of the five makers of the beobachtungsuhr, or B-uhr, supplied to the German Luftwaffe during the second world war, IWC is perhaps best known for its pilot’s watches. And the quintessential modern-day IWC pilot’s watch is arguably the Big Pilot’s Watch, which is modelled on the oversized B-uhr (which translates “navigation watch”). Watches and Wonders 2021 sees a litany of new Pilot’s Watches from IWC, including the Big Pilot’s Watch 43, a more wearable, 43 mm version of its extra-large aviator’s watch that was historically 46.2 mm. The reduction in size is made possible due to the cal. 82100, instead of the seven-day cal. 52110 found in its larger brother. Available with black or blue dials, along with the option of a bracelet, the new Big Pilot sticks to traditional dial colours, with no green on offer, despite the faddish colour being found on the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 that’s being launched at the same time. The Big Pilot Watch 43 in blue Initial thoughts A theme at this year’s Watches & Wonders seems to be downsizing – brands from Rolex to Panerai seem to be responding to rising demand for smaller cases. By shrinking the Big Pilot from 46 mm to 43 mm, IWC caters to those who still want a biggish pilot’s watch, but one that will be easier to wear. Aside from the reduced size, the new Big Pilot 43 has been pared back in terms of design (which is also a consequence of the new movement). Gone are the date and power reserve display ind...

Hands-On: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun “SFTI” SJX Watches
Rado xically Oct 15, 2020

Hands-On: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun “SFTI”

IWC is not the only maker of pilot’s watches, but it is perhaps the best known. The brand’s line up of aviator’s timepieces is all encompassing, from basic three-handers to chronographs, and paradoxically for an aviation instrument, even perpetual calendars. But the latest pilot’s offering is straightforward. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun “SFTI” is a chronograph with a ceramic case, but its pushers, crown, and case back are Ceratanium, which is essentially titanium coated with ceramic. And more notably, it’s a limited edition of 1,500 watches that will be sold publicly, but is based on a similar watch created in 2018 that is available only to graduates of the United States Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor (SFTI) programme, better known as TOPGUN. Initial thoughts IWC is not short on pilot’s watches, even special or limited-edition pilot’s watches. The brand has rolled out many, many iterations, variations, and editions. But the Pilot’s Watch collection is a bestseller so that’s commercially inevitable. But that doesn’t take away from the intrinsic appeal of a pilot’s watch. And IWC has been especially successful at tweaking the no-nonsense design to make it interesting in a way that appeals to the boy in every man. Some of the appeal isn’t sophisticated, but it is there – like the red fighter jet silhouette as the seconds hand counterweight. The base-model IWC Pilot’s Chronograph in steel has that appeal, and in blac...

“Jason Statham owns and buys all his IWCs himself,” says IWC CEO in playful interview about the 2020 Portugieser Collection Time+Tide
Rolex Jun 9, 2020

“Jason Statham owns and buys all his IWCs himself,” says IWC CEO in playful interview about the 2020 Portugieser Collection

“I haven’t read your article yet about which action stars are wearing which watches,” IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr begins the interview by saying. “I just very much hope you haven’t got Jason Statham in there with his one Rolex in that one film, even though he buys and owns all his IWCs himself and wears … ContinuedThe post “Jason Statham owns and buys all his IWCs himself,” says IWC CEO in playful interview about the 2020 Portugieser Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Alec Baldwin’s watch collection reveals a man of taste and versatility, inc. Bulgari, Breitling, Bremont and IWC Time+Tide
Breitling Bremont May 15, 2020

Alec Baldwin’s watch collection reveals a man of taste and versatility, inc. Bulgari, Breitling, Bremont and IWC

Alec Baldwin is an American actor and comedian, best known for his roles in television and film. Baldwin starred as Jack Donaghy in the sitcom 30 Rock, for which he won two Emmys and three Golden Globes. He has starred in notable films, including Glengarry Glen Ross, Mission: Impossible - Rogue Nation, The Departed and The … ContinuedThe post Alec Baldwin’s watch collection reveals a man of taste and versatility, inc. Bulgari, Breitling, Bremont and IWC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph “Blue Angels” SJX Watches
Breitling Nov 20, 2019

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph “Blue Angels”

Having recently coming a licensee of the U.S. Navy Flight Demonstration Squadron, better known as the Blue Angels, IWC is marking the occasion with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Blue Angels”. Already the longtime licensee for the U.S. Navy Fighter Weapons School – hence the Pilot’s Watch Top Gun editions – IWC is the latest watchmaker to sign with the Blue Angels. The team has had several watchmakers become licensees over the years, first Breitling in the 1990s, followed by Citizen. The new Blue Angels chronograph is in blue and yellow, the colours of the Blue Angels’ emblem. The dial is a dark, metallic blue with a yellow track for the hours. The case is in matte black ceramic and measures 44.5mm wide. The Blue Angels logo engraved on the back Inside is the cal. 89361, the brand’s top of the line, in-house chronograph. It’s an automatic movement with IWC’s signature Pellaton winding mechanism. The chronograph has both a flyback function as well as the hour and minute registers co-axial at 12 o’clock. Key facts and price Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Blue Angels” Ref. IW389008 Diameter: 44.5mm Height: 15.7mm Material: Black ceramic Water resistance: 60m Movement: Cal. 89361 Functions: Time, date, and flyback chronograph Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour, or 4Hz Power reserve: 68 hours Strap: Blue calfskin Limited edition: No Availability: From November 2019, at both boutiques and retailers Price: US$...

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 2 – the Spitfire collection Time+Tide
Casio nal silver-dialled offering Aug 15, 2019

Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 2 – the Spitfire collection

Following on from last week’s look at the Top Gun collection, Andrew sets his sights on the heritage-inspired Spitfire collection. This year saw the Spitfire step up its status from an occasional silver-dialled offering to a fully formed collection in its own right. Gone are the silver dials of the past, replaced with either handsome … ContinuedThe post Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 2 – the Spitfire collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: Andrew’s top 3 picks from SIHH 2019 between $10k and $35k, including Panerai, IWC and Ulysse Nardin Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Jan 23, 2019

LIST: Andrew’s top 3 picks from SIHH 2019 between $10k and $35k, including Panerai, IWC and Ulysse Nardin

This price bracket is a sweet spot for SIHH and the going gets tough when it comes to picking the standouts. One of the benefits of Felix and I splitting our picks this year is that we can cover more ground. That said, we still maintain our habit of not sharing our choices before we … ContinuedThe post LIST: Andrew’s top 3 picks from SIHH 2019 between $10k and $35k, including Panerai, IWC and Ulysse Nardin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Unpacking Patek Philippe’s Latest Novelties from the 50th Anniversary of the Nautilus and Beyond Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe s Latest Novelties from Apr 23, 2026

Unpacking Patek Philippe’s Latest Novelties from the 50th Anniversary of the Nautilus and Beyond

Perhaps only second to Rolex, Patek Philippe’s novelties rank among some of the most highly anticipated at each year’s Watches & Wonders. The maison (like Rolex) is one of a select few brands that notoriously keeps its models under strict lock and key until the fair. Despite receiving the press kit in our inboxes that fateful morning, we all know nothing really compares to seeing the watches in the metal. Once you’ve been attending Watches & Wonders for many years, you know the Patek Philippe choreography well. The booth is one of the sleekest and most well-appointed each year, standing brightly lit and with a commanding presence directly across from the moodier Rolex outpost. As you pass through the threshold, you’re met with a warm and serene vibe that may surprise some for such a prestigious and traditional brand. After mingling with representatives from every major U.S. media outlet, you’re all ushered into the expansive roundtable room at the back of the booth. Here, you must choose your seat carefully in front of the covered tray you hope will reveal the novelty you’re most excited to see. At the moment of the grand unveiling, gloved experts from the maison lift the coverings off the trays in perfect synchronicity, marking the start of the dance, which moves counterclockwise around each station featuring a different watch family. This year, I choose well, beginning my journey with the 50th anniversary Nautilus models. Here, we have three new executions of...

Hamilton Celebrates America’s 250th Anniversary with a Special Khaki Field Mechanical Worn & Wound
Hamilton Celebrates America’s 250th Anniversary Apr 21, 2026

Hamilton Celebrates America’s 250th Anniversary with a Special Khaki Field Mechanical

Hamilton is marking the United States’ 250th anniversary with a new limited release tied to both the brand’s American roots and its ties to military history. The Khaki Field Mechanical America 250 Anniversary US Edition is a U.S.-exclusive model limited to 1,776 pieces, referencing, of course, the year the Declaration of Independence was signed. Founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1892, Hamilton is using this release to revisit one of its lesser-known military references. The watch takes inspiration from the FAPD 5101 navigator’s watch, developed in the early 1970s for U.S. Air Force navigators during the Vietnam era. Produced for only a short period, the original model has since become one of the rarer Hamilton military watches. It featured a 36mm parkerized steel case, slightly larger than many field watches of its era, and was powered by the 17-jewel Hamilton caliber 684 (a movement developed specifically for that watch and not used elsewhere in the brand’s catalogue). Several of those defining details carry into this new iteration to celebrate the U.S.’s semiquincentennial anniversary (keep that word in your back pocket for trivia night). The case remains 36mm, preserving the footprint of the original reference, while fixed bars are used to keep the strap securely in place. Hamilton has also fitted the watch with an acrylic box-shaped crystal and a protective dust cover, furthering the vintage elements of the original reference point of this model. The dial...

Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko’s Nature-Inspired SBGZ011 Spring Drive Limited Release Shows The Shape of Water Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Nature-Inspired SBGZ011 Spring Apr 16, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko’s Nature-Inspired SBGZ011 Spring Drive Limited Release Shows The Shape of Water

Deep in the heart of a primeval forest lies a waterfall whose fresh spring waters are unspoilt by man, and whose mystic beauty is an endless source of inspiration - for the band of artisans who quietly engrave by hand some of the most intricately detailed watches in the world. It’s not a Studio Ghibli movie: the Tateshina Falls are real, located in central Japan’s Nagano Prefecture, which is also home to Grand Seiko’s Micro Artist Studio. And at Watches and Wonders 2026, a limited release pays tribute to this serene locale with a Spring Drive model that, according to Grand Seiko, “conveys time’s eternal flow in nature.”  The Masterpiece Collection SBGZ011 takes Grand Seiko’s sharp-edged 44GS case - rendered in platinum - and imbues it with hand-engraved lines from lug to lug, around the bezel, and entirely within the dial (save for a thin minute ring). These dashed silver lines flow in colliding swirls, bursting forth and blending into each other with seeming chaos; Grand Seiko suggests that they represent spring water bubbling forth from below the earth’s surface. On the bezel and the case’s flat surfaces and intersecting ridges, the patterns appear even more dramatic, resembling petals of a monochromatic flower. And on the dial, the white-gold hands and markers provide smooth, brilliant contrast, while the Grand Seiko and Spring Drive logos are carved and inset in their own boxes.  The manual-winding Caliber 9R02 is Grand Seiko’s thinnest Spri...

Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic Gains a Matching Ceramic Bracelet SJX Watches
Tudor s Black Bay Ceramic Apr 15, 2026

Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic Gains a Matching Ceramic Bracelet

A noteworthy release for W&W; 2026, the new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic (ref. 7941A1ACNU) delivers on the promise of a full ceramic bracelet. The stealthy model distills from Tudor’s expertise working with industrial ceramics and completes the fully black look for the beloved diver’s watch.  Initial thoughts Although I’m not too partial of ceramic watches in general, this latest edition of the Black Bay might be among the best offerings on the market. With a full ceramic construction (save from some strategic steel components) the timepiece captures the “black-out” theme perfectly. There is a strong market for all-black timepieces and Tudor’s latest Black Bay Ceramic is a solid proposition.  Tudor’s quality is generally unmatched in their price category and the Black Bay Ceramic is one of the more affordable ceramic-cased timepieces. The new bracelet and clasp also add considerably to the value of the watch and complete the look.  Having handled the piece personally I can confidently say the bracelet wears light and comfortable. The clasp action is sturdy, but somehow doesn’t covey the sense of security the heftier T-Fit clasp does. It’s not that the lock isn’t reliable — it really is — but a butterfly-style clasp just feels off on a diver watch.  This new Black Bay Ceramic follows the newer Black Bay design language, with the slimmer crown and slimmer profile. Since it remains part of the Black Bay line, this can be considered a tool watch, but the ...

Patek Philippe’s Celestial Ref. 6105G Blasts Off SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s Celestial Ref 6105G Apr 14, 2026

Patek Philippe’s Celestial Ref. 6105G Blasts Off

Patek Philippe updates its star chart “Grand Complication” for the third time with the Celestial Sunrise Sunset Ref. 6105G. The ref. 6105G adds the time of sunrise and sunset – cleverly integrated into the date scale – and a daring new design with a formidable, space-age lug-less case in white gold that’s 47 mm across. The ref. 6105G also introduces a novel way to account for the transition between summer and winter time, adding a corrector that shifts the sunrise and sunset scales, solving a significant shortcoming of astronomical watches for users in Europe and the Americas. Initial thoughts I’ve long thought that Patek Philippe’s greatest strength, other than its massive industrial investments, was its remarkable design diversity. Today brands seem to pursue a unified design language across all of their watches. And while this result is a strong visual identity for the brand, it is extremely limiting. Patek Philippe has no such limits, and the brand has about two dozen different case styles in the current collection, and hundreds in its back catalog. While this leads to its fair share of design misses, at least to my sensibilities, it can also lead to striking successes. I’m sure many will disagree, but I see the new Celestial as the latter. A wristwatch with the time of sunrise and sunset is long overdue from Patek Philippe, and this watch adds the ability to adjust those indications to account for daylight savings time. This addresses the complication...

Vacheron Constantin’s Ultra-Thin Overseas Returns SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Ultra-Thin Overseas Returns Apr 13, 2026

Vacheron Constantin’s Ultra-Thin Overseas Returns

Following a belter of an anniversary year during which the brand launched, among other things, the world’s most complicated wristwatch and a quarter-ton astronomical clock, Vacheron Constantin (VC) kicks off Watches & Wonders with something more low-profile, both literally and figuratively - the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin. While small in stature at just 7.35 mm thick, it’s what’s inside the counts - namely, an all-new micro-rotor calibre with 80 hours of power reserve and seemingly limitless potential. Initial thoughts The new Overseas Ultra-Thin is little different from the model that preceded it, though the ref. 2000V remained rare enough throughout its production run that the format still feels fresh. It also helps that despite the visual similarity, the ref. 2500V is a completely new watch inside and out, catapulting a model that arguably lagged behind its one obvious competitor into instant parity. The ref. 2500V is best understood from the inside out. Audemars Piguet replaced the well-loved historical cal. 2121 with its more modern cal. 7121 in 2022, and now it’s VC’s turn, being the last of the big three purveyors of mass-market fine watchmaking to replace its aging Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920-based movements with an in-house alternative. The reluctance to replace this venerable platform is understandable. What VC calls the cal. 1120 is one of the last movements of its generation still in use, and carries a historical weight missing from many moder...

Introducing: The Final Versions Of The Greubel Forsey Balancier Convexe S² Fratello
Greubel Forsey Balancier Convexe S² Goodbyes Mar 23, 2026

Introducing: The Final Versions Of The Greubel Forsey Balancier Convexe S²

Goodbyes are never easy. Nevertheless, after five years in production, Greubel Forsey is removing the Balancier Convexe S² from the catalog. The brand follows this strategy to maintain extreme exclusivity, preserve high secondary-market value, and ensure a focus on innovation and hand-finished quality over mass production. The two farewell creations - one in black ceramic […] Visit Introducing: The Final Versions Of The Greubel Forsey Balancier Convexe S² to read the full article.

King Seiko VANAC Review: Vintage 1970s Style Meets Modern Seiko Engineering WatchAdvice
Seiko VANAC Review Vintage 1970s Mar 20, 2026

King Seiko VANAC Review: Vintage 1970s Style Meets Modern Seiko Engineering

The King Seiko VANAC blends a bold 1970s-inspired design with Seiko’s modern 8L45 movement and a new vintage-style leather strap. What We Love: The textured dials with the gold coloured accents The angular vintage-style case The proportions and size for ease of wearing What We Don’t: The movement accuracy could be better at this price point The leather straps could not be up everyone’s alley The clasp on the strap doesn’t feel as solid as the watch itself. Overall Rating: 8.1 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 7.5/10 Build Quality: 8/10 The King Seiko VANAC is a watch designed to talk to the collector market, and as such, the VANAC name is one that long-time Seiko collectors will recognise straight away. Today, the modern re-interpretations of the VANAC stay relatively true to the original models, but of course, with modern materials and standards. They’re instantly recognisable with those in the know, and do harken back to a time where the Avant-Garde was becoming more the industry norm across certain collections. So, before we get into this review, let’s take a short walk back in time… King Seiko’s VANAC Line Returns In A New Lease On Life A Brief History Of King Seiko’s VANAC First introduced in 1972, the VANAC line represented a bold departure from the more traditional King Seiko dress watches. Designed primarily for the Japanese market, VANAC watches were intended to be Vibrant, Active, New, Advanced, Comfortable — the meaning...