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16,408 articles · 82 videos found · page 32 of 550

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The Baselworld Saga: MCH Group Responds, and a Bit of Background SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Chanel Chopard Apr 15, 2020

The Baselworld Saga: MCH Group Responds, and a Bit of Background

Hours after the momentous but unsurprising exit from Baselworld by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard, and Tudor, the fair’s organiser, MCH Group, issued a strident response expressing “great surprise and equally great regret” at the brands’ departure, while noting that all the brands were privy to the discussions about “postponing” Baselworld 2020 to January next year. And MCH Group then took a swing at its former exhibitors, implying a long-planned conspiracy to depart Baselworld: “[We] must therefore conclude that the relevant plans [to leave Baselworld] have been in preparation for some time and that the discussions concerning the financial arrangements for the cancellation of Baselworld 2020 are now being put forward as an argument.” Memories of days past – the main hall of Baselworld 2019. Photo – Baselworld Unilateral decisions, and more According to insiders, however, the MCH Group statement is only half the story. Most crucial were the circumstances surrounding the negotiations for changing the date of Baselworld, once the world’s largest watch and jewellery fair, a status that likely buoyed MCH Group’s confidence to unsustainable levels. The major brands, led by exhibitors’ committee head Hubert J. du Plessix – who is also the chief of investments and logistics at Rolex – were amenable to postponing Baselworld to January 2021. Amongst the most vocal proponents for the move were the LVMH-owned brands, namely Bulgari, Hublot, TAG...

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VIDEO: Exploring the Bulgari Octo Finissimo 100m Stainless Steel, which is in pole position for best steel sports watch of 2020 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Apr 2, 2020

VIDEO: Exploring the Bulgari Octo Finissimo 100m Stainless Steel, which is in pole position for best steel sports watch of 2020

With the possibility that yet more brands will not release watches this year, following suit with Patek Philippe, the field for the best new watches has narrowed dramatically. And in the steel sports watch category, there now stands one towering contender for the best of 2020. And that is a watch released before this year … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Exploring the Bulgari Octo Finissimo 100m Stainless Steel, which is in pole position for best steel sports watch of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Unboxing the G-Shock Dream Project ‘Pure Gold’ in 18k Yellow Gold SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5172G chronograph or Mar 16, 2020

Unboxing the G-Shock Dream Project ‘Pure Gold’ in 18k Yellow Gold

Preposterous, outrageous, and very, very cool, the G-Shock Dream Project ‘Pure Gold’ G-D5000-9JR was announced last year. The watch cost US$70,000 – about the same as a Patek Philippe ref. 5172G chronograph or a Voutilainen Vingt-8 in steel – which was a shocker. But with only 35 made, the Dream Project sold out faster than you can say DW-5000. Though the watches were allocated to clients via ballot in May 2019, the first watch was only delivered in January 2020, with the rest of the watches trickling out at a gradual pace until late 2021 when the final watch will be completed. The very first watches were delivered to retailers in Japan, but one recently arrived in Singapore, the only one sold in the city state. Most countries only got one, with very large markets like the United States getting two, and the rest going to Japan. Gold and iron Made entirely of 18k yellow gold – it weighs 297 g or about 10 oz – the Dream Project was first exhibited at Baselworld 2015 as a concept watch. According to watch magazine Chronos Japan, the idea for a gold G-Shock came from Yasuyuki Iima, the president of Eye Eye Isuzu, a noted watch retailer. His suggestion led to G-Shock inventor Kikuo Ibe embarking on a “dream project” – the solid-gold G-Shock. The watch took five years to make it to market primarily because of the challenge in making it as shockproof as a standard G-Shock – basically the watch’s functionality has to survive being thrown out a third-storey ...

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Semper & Adhuc Rescues Homeless Vintage Movements SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Feb 5, 2020

Semper & Adhuc Rescues Homeless Vintage Movements

French startup Semper & Adhuc is making its debut with a familiar proposition: affordable, time-only watches, but with a historically conscious twist – each watch is powered by a homeless vintage movement. Also unusual is the fact that while the movements are Swiss, namely the A. Schild AS 1012, every other part of the watch, including case, dial, and hands, is made in France. The brand was started in 2016 by watchmaker Colin de Tonnac, who spent several years at Patek Philippe in Geneva before setting up Semper & Adhuc in Bordeaux. The inaugural line-up is made up of three minimalist watches with quirky details and form cases, but the most interesting bit is the slightly romantic rationale behind the movement inside. Saving abandoned movements All three models are powered by the same calibre, the hand-wound AS 1012 produced by A. Schild, a Grenchen-based movement maker that was once one of Switzerland’s largest. Produced from 1936 to 1960, the AS 1012 is an unusual movement because it is, or rather was, an oval form calibre destined for ladies’ watches, explaining the compact size of about 13 mm by 15 mm. It has 17 or 21 jewels depending on the version, and a 36-hour power reserve. Examples of the AS 1012 and its variants The AS 1012 was inexpensive and robust, making it popular enough that millions were produced. And after the Quartz Crisis, a good number of the movements – likely the majority of them – were in watches that were no longer desirable. That wa...

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Kikuchi Nakagawa Introduces the Murakumo White Dial SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava ref 96 considered Nov 28, 2019

Kikuchi Nakagawa Introduces the Murakumo White Dial

Unveiled last year as the debut product of Kikuchi Nakagawa, the Murakumo is modelled on the 1930s Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96, considered by its founders as the ideal classical men’s wristwatch. Originally available only with a matte black dial, Kikuchi Nakagawa has now unveiled its inverse – the Murakumo with white dial and black numerals. Black polishing Founded by a pair of Japanese watchmakers, Yusuke Kikuchi and Tomonari Nakagawa – with Mr Nakagawa having worked at Citizen as it developed the tourbillon – the brand is all about two things: components supplied by the very best Japanese specialists (save for the dial and movement), and exceptional black polishing of all the external steel parts. The three-dimensional hands are made by precision machine shop Yuki Precision, while the case and buckle are courtesy of Matsuura Works. The parts are all black polished by hand, creating a remarkably flat, mirror-like surface. With some Swiss help The dial on the other hand, comes from Swiss supplier Gilwatch, located in Geneva. Particular attention was paid to the printed numerals, which require several layers of pad printing in order to give them height. Also from Switzerland is the movement, which is a Vaucher VMF 5401. Though high quality in finish and construction – variants of the same calibre are used by Hermes, Richard Mille and Parmigiani – the movement is relatively pedestrian compared to the rest of the Murakumo. That being said, Kikuchi Nakagawa...

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Astronauts, Avengers, Unicorns, Academy Award Winners, Mountaineers, Golfers, And Astronomic Clock Watches: 9 Stupendous Highlights Of Phillips Game Changers Auction Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe models But there are Nov 16, 2019

Astronauts, Avengers, Unicorns, Academy Award Winners, Mountaineers, Golfers, And Astronomic Clock Watches: 9 Stupendous Highlights Of Phillips Game Changers Auction

Phillips Game Changers is a compact auction featuring 74 lots, among them the usual array of rare, fine, and attractive Rolex and Patek Philippe models. But there are a few watches in this auction that are notable for reasons outside of the fact that they fine, rare, attractive, and made by certain brands. And it is these watches that Elizabeth Doerr highlights here. Oh, and spoiler: there are indeed two Rolex models among them, but you’ll see why.

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Raul Pages Introduces the Arabic Calligraphy Cloisonné Enamel SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum Limited Nov 13, 2019

Raul Pages Introduces the Arabic Calligraphy Cloisonné Enamel

Independent watchmaker Raul Pages debuted his first wristwatch in 2016, after several years spent restoring watches and clocks at Parmigiani and then the Patek Philippe Museum. Limited to just 10 watches, the Soberly Onyx wristwatch contained a reworked and highly decorated Cyma movement from the 1950s. The very last of the series, however, is strikingly different from the rest. The Arabic Calligraphy pièce unique is a custom commission from a European client, an important collector of both vintage and modern watches who already has two other Soberly Onyx watches. The client wanted a cloisonné enamel dial bearing the phrase ٱلْـحَـمْـدُ للهِ‎, or alhamdulillah. Most commonly used by Muslims but also by Arabic speakers of other denominations, it translates as “thank God” or “praise be to God”. Raul recruited Jean-Luc Peter, an enamel artisan who has also done work for Hermes, to create this dial. Elegant and striking in form, the phrase is executed in a mustard enamel and outlined in fine gold wire, as is traditional for cloisonné enamel. It sits agains a vivid green background that complements the rose gold hands and case beautifully. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard Soberly Onyx, which has a polished onyx stone dial. That means the case is 40mm in diameter and a slim 9.3mm high. Inside is a movement that started out as a Cyma 586K from the 1950s, but one that has been heavily modified by Raul. The bridges were reshaped and ...

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Business News: LVMH Offers to Buy Tiffany & Co. SJX Watches
Patek Philippe watches Oct 27, 2019

Business News: LVMH Offers to Buy Tiffany & Co.

Luxury giant LVMH has made an offer to buy Tiffany & Co., America’s leading luxury jeweller (and the biggest retailer of Patek Philippe watches in the country), according to the Bloomberg. The French group made an all-cash offer of US$120 a share, a premium of about 22% over Tiffany’s last done share price and valuing the company at about US$14.4 billion. That would make Tiffany’s the biggest acquisition ever for LVMH, which has seen its shares hit record highs recently, bringing its value to over US$210 billion. Despite being the world’s largest luxury group – its brands include Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, Rimowa, Hublot and DFS – LVMH is relatively weak in high-end jewellery, especially compared to Swiss rival Richemont, which owns Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Piaget, and only just picked up Buccellati. Buying Tiffany would give LVMH a bigger presence in jewellery, as well as greater exposure to the United States, which is the jeweller’s biggest market, account for around a third of sales. LVMH only just opened a bag factory in Texas, the Louis Vuitton Rochambeau Ranch, in an event attended by Donald Trump and LVMH chief executive and controlling shareholder Bernard Arnault, who’s also the third-richest man in the world. Best known for its diamond engagement rings and blue boxes, Tiffany suffered from a weak spell in recent years, with its former chief executive Frederic Cumenal, an LVMH alumni, lasting barely two years. After he departed in 2017, to be...

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Obituary: Gilbert Albert, Jeweller and Watch Designer SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 3, 2019

Obituary: Gilbert Albert, Jeweller and Watch Designer

Designer of some of the most striking wristwatches of the 1960s, jeweller Gilbert Albert (1930-2019), passed away in his hometown of Geneva on October 1 , 2019. He was 90. Son of a newspaper deliveryman, Albert trained as a jeweller at Geneva’s l’Ecole des Arts Industriels and was only in his mid 20s when he joined Patek Philippe in 1955 as a designer. In his seven years at the watchmaker, which was then led by Henri Stern, himself a trained jeweller, Albert was responsible for some of the most radical watch cases of the era. These strikingly asymmetrical timepieces, like the Asymétrie wristwatches and Ricochet pocket watches, are still incredible designs six decades on. Gilbert Albert. Photo – lenouvelliste.ch He then set up his own workshop in 1962, where he became known for the use of unusual materials like coral and meteorite, all installed in quirky, unique jewellery desirable enough that frequent fakes eventually emerged. Albert also designed watches and jewellery for other watchmakers, most notably Omega, where he created several collections, including the Maille d’Or and Arabesque d’Or, all characterised by a distinctive, almost organic style. With his success, Albert built a small but highly regarded jewellery business. He opened his first store in his hometown in 1973, sited on rue de la Corraterie, a street just outside the walls of Geneva’s Old Town. Ten years later that was followed by a boutique in Zurich. Albert’s boutique in Gen...

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In-Depth: Commissioning a Custom Andreas Strehler Wristwatch SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5230G Bottom row Sep 6, 2019

In-Depth: Commissioning a Custom Andreas Strehler Wristwatch

I am a collector of world time and time zone watches, and own several from mainstream brands. I had long had my own ideas of an ideal travel watch, and this is the tale of how one came to be. A world time watch should simultaneously show at least 24 time zones on the dial. There are principally three dial types that can do this: first is a map of the Earth with time zones marked out; second is a disc with 24 reference time zones indicated by city names; third is a 24 hour ring in conjunction with a ring of reference time zones, widely known as the Cottier world time, after Swiss watchmaker Louis Cottier who built the first wristwatch with the mechanism. Top row, from left: Lottermann & Söhne Weltzeituhr 1, Tissot Heritage Navigator, Patek Philippe ref. 5230G Bottom row: Dubey & Schaldenbrand Weltzeit, Junkers 6892-5 Serie Worldtimer, Jean-Mairet & Gillman Sport. Images – respective brands The first two variants use the entire dial to display world time, leaving no room for additional complications. The Cottier-system can as well dominate the design, with only the centre of the dial available for decorations or additional indications, making it difficult to embellish the dial with motifs relating to a specific brand. Reducing the displays can create a more interesting dial layout, but this results in microscopic indicators that are hardly readable. For this reason, I now prefer time zone watches with only one additional zone time shown on a 24-hour scale, often labelled ...

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Hands-On: Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” ref 3700 Sep 3, 2019

Hands-On: Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2”

The Phillips Perpetual boutique in London officially opens this week with 40 watches encompassing all important genres of watch collecting, from a Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” to a Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” ref. 3700 (from the collection of Jean-Claude Biver no less). But one of the flagship offerings is an important example of independent watchmaking – a Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2” that’s “No. 1”. It is very much a quintessential, early Roger W. Smith creation with the hallmark elements of his watchmaking. But the watch is also historically interesting, being an example of the road not taken for Mr Smith. The forgotten “Edition” This watch illuminates an intriguing bit of early Roger W. Smith history. Shortly after Mr Smith delivered the first batch of Series 2 watches in late 2007, he decided to create the “Edition” concept. According to Mr Smith, the idea was to produce Series 2 as a limited edition of 90 watches in total, with 30 watches in each colour of gold. All Edition watches had 38mm cases and solid silver dials; the Edition 1 was in yellow gold, Edition 2 in rose, and Edition 3 in white gold. At the same time, Mr Smith also offered custom versions of the Series 2, which were also available in a platinum case. But as it turned out, most clients wanted a custom watch, rather than an Edition example. So Mr Smith discreetly abandoned Edition not long after, and only a five of each Edition were made. This is on...

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Hands-On: Urwerk UR-111C “Pistol” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 3414 Aug 26, 2019

Hands-On: Urwerk UR-111C “Pistol”

The average Urwerk is distinctly sci-fi in appearance, more Star Trek than Games of Thrones. But every once in a while Urwerk gives one of its watches the ornately-fully-engraved treatment, with the latest being the UR-111C “Pistol”. It’s a one-off creation based on the UR-111C, a watch inspired by the earlier and much more expensive UR-CC1, itself modelled on the 1950s Patek Philippe ref. 3414, an experimental wristwatch nicknamed “Cobra”. The standard UR-111C has a streamlined case with a mechanical looking details, very much in the house style of Urwerk. The Pistol, in contrast, is decorated on all surfaces with an ornate motif that’s hand-engraved by Urwerk’s go-to engraver. It was commissioned by a client who has a soft spot for such engraved Urwerk watches; the UR-111C “Pistol” is his third fully engraved watch. (Editor’s note: This Pistol shares the same name as the EMC Pistol from 2015, and was decorated by the same engraver, but is a completely different model.) Inspired by 19th century French wrought iron fixtures, the motif is in relief, raised against the background by only a fraction of a millimetre but enough to give it significant depth. Add to that the refined, narrow and perfectly straight lines of the decoration, and the talent of the engraver is obvious. Credit for the work goes to Florian Güllert, an Austrian engraver who trained as a gunsmith and usually decorates firearms. Based in Klagenfurt, a city in the south of ...

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Kennsen Debuts with the Smart & Affordable Annual Calendar Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Jul 18, 2019

Kennsen Debuts with the Smart & Affordable Annual Calendar Chronograph

Kennsen Watches makes its debut with a notably clever and well-priced annual calendar chronograph powered by a patented calendar module on top of a Valjoux 7750. Though Kennsen is newly set-up, its founder David Lea specialises in constructing complications for other brands, explaining the surprising degree of technical innovation for a small start-up. Annual calendar chronographs are relatively uncommon on the market and most are fairly costly – Patek Philippe and Ulysse Nardin are amongst the handful of brands that offer one – making the new Kennsen the most affordable example today, with a retail price of just over US$5000. Despite its affordability, the Kennsen annual calendar chronograph is entirely Swiss-made. The case is produced by Victorinox, the famed maker of Swiss army knives and also watches, while the module was designed by Lea & Associé – Mr Lea’s design outfit – and manufactured by a firm in the Vallée de Joux. Made of stainless steel, the case is 42mm in diameter, with a polished bezel and case back, while the case band has a brushed finish. The dial, available in either black or champagne, has a clean and pleasant design. It features recessed sub-dials, applied indices and a telemeter scale in miles and kilometres on the outer rim. At one o’clock is a day and night indicator displayed in a small aperture, and nestled subtly next to the central axis of the dial is the month display, aligned on the same axis as the date at three. ...

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The Forgotten Most-Complicated-Watch-Ever Made for the Most Famous Banker Ever SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Graves “supercomplication” which sold Jul 7, 2019

The Forgotten Most-Complicated-Watch-Ever Made for the Most Famous Banker Ever

The timepieces that held the title of “most complicated watch ever”, as well as their famous owners, are mostly well known – save for the long-lost English grand complication commissioned by banker J. Pierpont Morgan. Morgan was a great collector of watches, and his grandest timepiece was a double-dial, astronomical pocket watch made by J. Player & Son. It  was the most complicated English watch ever made, and perhaps the most complicated watch in the world at the time of its completion. Though Morgan’s watch has long been surpassed in complexity by other hands, and it bears the name of a defunct English brand, it has arguably the greatest provenance of all super-pocket watches. Unlike James Ward Packard or Henry Graves, who were both wealthy, accomplished, and little known individuals outside their fields, Morgan is still the best known banker in history; the biggest bank in the United States today bears his name. The grandest of all time But first, a brisk walk through the grand complication hall of fame. The most famous most-complicated-watch-ever is, of course, the Patek Philippe Graves “supercomplication”, which sold for US$24m in 2014 and still holds the record for the most expensive watch ever sold. Commissioned by American banker Henry Graves Jr in 1925, and delivered in 1933, the Graves pocket watch outdid the now obscure Leroy 01 that was sold in 1904 to a Portuguese millionaire. And it also surpassed the various watches produced for automobile ...

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Live from London: George Daniels Space Traveller I Sells for US$4.56m SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Jul 2, 2019

Live from London: George Daniels Space Traveller I Sells for US$4.56m

The George Daniels Space Traveller I, one of the most important watches of the 20th century, has just sold at Sotheby’s in London for  £3.62m, or about US$4.56m, all fees included. That makes the Space Traveller I the most expensive watch sold in 2019 so far – though it will doubtlessly be eclipsed by the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in steel for Only Watch – and the most expensive watch ever by an independent watchmaker. A big boost to Sotheby’s market share in watch auctions, the record-setting Daniels was the final lot in the first auction of Masterworks of Time, the sale of a collection of over 800 pocket watches owned by Erivan Haub, the late German supermarket tycoon. The last time the Space Traveller was sold was in 1988, where Haub paid  220,000 Swiss francs for it at Sotheby’s in Geneva. Prior to that, the watch was been sold by London antique watch dealer Bobinet in 1982 to a collector by the name of Jay Lennon. In almost forty years, the Space Traveller has had only three owners. The auction Having concluded just over an hour ago, the auction took place on a pleasant summer’s day in London, but it was slow going in the half-filled room. The average age of the attendees was notedly higher than that for a wristwatch auction, reflecting the niche nature of pocket watch collecting. But a crowd started to form as soon as it came to the Space Traveller, and the atmosphere perked up. Bidding started out as a tussle between an absentee bidder...

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GONE IN 60 SECONDS: The most complicated wristwatch ever made – the Franck Muller Aeternitas Mega video review Time+Tide
Patek Philippe s Calibre 89 Aug 14, 2016

GONE IN 60 SECONDS: The most complicated wristwatch ever made – the Franck Muller Aeternitas Mega video review

[su_vimeo url=”https://vimeo.com/154855593″] Franck Muller has the rather grandiloquent sobriquet of ‘The Master of Complications’ – and this watch is the reason why. Superseding Patek Philippe’s Calibre 89 for the most complicated title when it was released in 2010, the Aeternitas Mega features a staggering 36 complications, 21 hands and a movement with no fewer than 1483 parts. More impressive … ContinuedThe post GONE IN 60 SECONDS: The most complicated wristwatch ever made – the Franck Muller Aeternitas Mega video review appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Benzinger Meets Zanella; Watch Collector Anniversary Watch Revolution
Patek Philippe s 175th Anniversary collection Jun 11, 2015

Benzinger Meets Zanella; Watch Collector Anniversary Watch

Watches that commemorate anniversaries are often amongst the most desirable. Collectors still hunt for pieces of Cartier’s 150th and Patek Philippe’s 175th Anniversary collection, and probably will do the same in the near future for REVOLUTION’s own anniversary Panerai and IWC. That such celebrations often result in the creation of truly unique watches is once […]

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