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Results for Rexhep Rexhepi (Watchmaker)

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Frederique Constant Introduces The Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Skeleton by Peter Speake Fratello
Frederique Constant Introduces Jan 27, 2024

Frederique Constant Introduces The Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Skeleton by Peter Speake

In 2022, Frederique Constant launched a special version of its Slimline Perpetual Calendar in collaboration with The Naked Watchmaker. Roughly 18 months later, this joint effort gets a new chapter with another version of the same watch. This time around, however, the new edition comes courtesy of Peter Speake. He is no longer part of […] Visit Frederique Constant Introduces The Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Skeleton by Peter Speake to read the full article.

Dial Restoration: Aesthetics or Functionality? How to Decide – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jan 27, 2024

Dial Restoration: Aesthetics or Functionality? How to Decide – Reprise

Most will agree that re-painting a dial is a big no-no. Vintage pieces with re-painted dials can be had for a steal as they are difficult to shift and mostly unwanted. But not all dial restorations are created equal, and we do encounter varying degrees of “upgrades.” Some of these upgrades are purposeful deception, while others are not. Here is what one watchmaker feels about the subject.

What is the Cheapest Grand Seiko? Five Models You Can Buy for Under $5 Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Jan 25, 2024

What is the Cheapest Grand Seiko? Five Models You Can Buy for Under $5

Since its high-profile launch to international markets outside its native Japan in 2010, and its subsequent relaunch as an independent watchmaker separate from parent brand Seiko in 2017, Grand Seiko has become a Holy Grail for many an avid watch enthusiast. Now firmly established, for many, as an upper-echelon luxury brand on the level of Rolex and Omega, Grand Seiko has cultivated its own loyal core of fans - including many budding collectors new to the watch game who might be initially intimidated by the cost of some of the manufacture’s most exclusive, high-profile timepieces. Fortunately, the price of admission to Grand Seiko ownership is actually more reasonable than you might have been led to believe, at least at the entry-level. Here are five Grand Seiko watches, representing a range of product families and movement styles, that fall on the more affordable side of the luxury spectrum.  Cheapest Grand Seiko “Snowflake:” STGF359 ($2,300) Among the most coveted models from Grand Seiko are the so-called ‘snowflake” editions, so nicknamed for their white, elegantly textured dials, made of stamped brass with a silver-plated finish, meant to evoke the blankets of fresh snow on the peaks of the Hokata Mountains that surround Seiko’s Shinshu Watch Studio in Japan’s Nagano Prefecture. The first “snowflake” was the legendary and now very collectible SBGA011, and other models have adopted the motif since then, most of them on the higher end of the brand’...

Hands-On With The Otsuka Lotec No.7.5 - A Jump-Hour Watch With Monochromatic Swagger Fratello
Otsuka Lotec Jan 24, 2024

Hands-On With The Otsuka Lotec No.7.5 - A Jump-Hour Watch With Monochromatic Swagger

As a keen observer of the independent side of Japanese watchmaking, I felt honored when Precision Watch Co. reached out on behalf of Jiro Katayama. Katayama-san is a small-scale watchmaker I have been following for a few years. What I find fascinating is his self-taught watchmaking, a quality he shares with Hajime Asaoka that beggars […] Visit Hands-On With The Otsuka Lotec No.7.5 - A Jump-Hour Watch With Monochromatic Swagger to read the full article.

In-Depth – The Brightly Coloured Cyrus Klepsys Dice Saffron Double Chronograph Monochrome
Jan 11, 2024

In-Depth – The Brightly Coloured Cyrus Klepsys Dice Saffron Double Chronograph

The latest release from independent watchmaker Cyrus, the Klepcys Dice Saffron, represents a fresh iteration of its groundbreaking Double Independent Chronograph Evolution, initially unveiled in 2021. While the Saffron edition primarily distinguishes itself with a new colour scheme, the technical prowess of this innovative watch series compelled us to delve into a hands-on experience to […]

Rashid Tsoroev Introduces the Evo Arrow with a Hand-Hammered Dial SJX Watches
Jan 9, 2024

Rashid Tsoroev Introduces the Evo Arrow with a Hand-Hammered Dial

Based in the southernmost corner of Russia, Rashid Tsoroev is a watchmaker who got his start in 2019 with fairly simple time-only watches powered by the oversized ETA Unitas calibre. Now Mr Tsoroev has upgraded his work, both stylistically and mechanically, with the debut of the Evo Arrow that is priced affordably at US$5,000. Still a three-hand watch but now equipped with a La Joux-Perret (LJP) automatic, the Evo Arrow sports a hand-hammered brass dial – a technique is sometimes described as tremblage – that he makes himself. Mr Tsoroev relies on suppliers for other components like the case, but he finishes all the components in his own workshop. Initial thoughts Like many independent makers in this price segment, Mr Tsoroev outsources several aspects the watch,  but he applies his skill to key aspects, including producing and finishing the dial and hands; this contrasts with brands that merely design and assemble watches. Mr Tsoroev’s attention to detail is admirable, considering the price of the watch. Elements like the font he designed for the watch and the rounded arms of the hands reflect the thought put into the design and execution. Granted, there are constraints imposed by the retail price and presumably Mr Tsoroev’s location (where there are probably no suppliers in a radius of hundreds of kilometres), but the Evo Arrow feels like an honest creation by a craftsman. The only thing I would change is the movement. I would swap the LJP calibre for a Russian ...

Hands-on – The Fascinating and Technical Moritz Grossmann Backpage Green Monochrome
Glashütte Original Jan 8, 2024

Hands-on – The Fascinating and Technical Moritz Grossmann Backpage Green

Karl Moritz Grossmann, a prominent figure from the 19th century, was the founder and director of the German School of Watchmaking. In our contemporary era, in 2007, Christine Hutter, a skilled watchmaker with experience at Maurice Lacroix, Glashütte Original and A. Lange & Söhne, acquired the right to use the name “Moritz Grossmann“. In 2008, […]

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Review Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Jan 5, 2024

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Review

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut is one of the younger members in Patek Philippe’s historic family of timepieces but it has already gained an avid following and represents to many collectors the most accessible entrée into the Swiss watchmaker’s luxurious universe. Here is everything you need to know about the Aquanaut, from its origins to its current status as a versatile and wide-ranging collection. A History of Watchmaking Milestones Since its founding in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has been a leader in high watchmaking, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now ubiquitous throughout the watch industry. Polish watchmakers Antoine Norbert de Patek and Francois Czapek partnered to form the original company, Patek, Czapek, & Cie.; French horologist Jean Adrien Philippe, who invented the keyless winding and setting system still standard on watches today, joined in 1845, and the Genevan manufacture has been known as Patek Philippe ever since. Among its many horological milestones are the first annual calendar watch and the first wristwatches with perpetual calendars and split-seconds chronographs. In 1932, brothers Jean and Henri Stern acquired Patek Philippe and the same year launched the watch that would become its signature, the Calatrava (above), inspired by the ancient Calatrava cross that had served as the maison’s logo since 1887. The following year, Patek Philippe made timekeeping history when it commissioned a record-setting complicated ...

Arcanaut Unleashes their Upcoming “Experimental” Bonehead and Tiger Sharc Worn & Wound
Dec 28, 2023

Arcanaut Unleashes their Upcoming “Experimental” Bonehead and Tiger Sharc

If you’ve been following along on the website and podcast over the last several months, you already know about how much I enjoy Arcanaut, the small independent watchmaker based in Denmark. I reviewed my own Arc II Fordite earlier this year, a watch that, when it was all said and done, was likely my most worn of the year. We’ve also covered recent releases that are a bit more straightforward than their dials created with paint drippings from American auto factories. The latest news from Denmark, though, is strange enough that Arcanaut has put their next two pieces in the “Experimental” category, and if the avant-garde nature of their previous work is appealing, these are likely to scratch a similar itch.  The new watches coming to the Arc II platform in the third quarter of next year both incorporate a creative use of materials (the brand’s primary guiding principle) in exciting ways. First out of the gate, we’ve got the Bonehead, named for the marrow-like pattern on the dial. That dial is fully lumed, but that’s not really what makes it interesting. What makes it compelling is the manufacturing process devised by Arcanaut’s James Thompson, which involves combining electric blue discs of lume, aerospace grade aluminum foam, and industrial resin, which Arcanaut has used previously to bind together the non-traditional materials that go into each dial. The end result is a uniquely textured, full lume dial that should be pretty impressive in its final form.  T...

Best of 2023: Value Propositions Below US$10,000 SJX Watches
Louis Erard Dec 21, 2023

Best of 2023: Value Propositions Below US$10,000

While the headline-grabbing watches of the year often featuring big complications and equally hefty prices, the year’s new launches also included a good number of value buys – both bang for the buck and accessibly priced. We have assembled a list highlighting the best value propositions of 2023, focusing on watches below US$10,000. Leading the list is a collaboration between Louis Erard and Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chakyin – unsurprisingly given Louis Erard’s speciality of making independent watchmaking more accessible. The Le Régulateur “Time-Eater” continues with the whimsical aesthetic of Mr Chaykin’s bestselling Wristmons line, but the Time-Eater only has one eye in order to fit the regulator-style display.  Like Louis Erard’s other regulator models, the Time-Eater in either version, 39 mm or 42 mm, is a thick watch at over 12 mm high, while inside is a no-frills Sellita automatic. But at CHF4,000 it was one of the best value buys in terms of independent watchmaking, and also the broader market. The 39 mm Time-Eater A fixture on our annual value-propositions list for some years now is Tudor, which has consistently distinguished itself with well-priced sports watches. Granted, all of the brand’s best products are dive watches – diversity is certainly not its strength for now – but the brand does one thing really well, thanks in large part to its brand-new, expansive manufacture. The brand had three noteworthy models in its line-u...

Bernhard Lederer’s New Watch Is Insanely Cool…. and Inverted? | Bernhard Lederer CIC InVerto! Revolution
Dec 21, 2023

Bernhard Lederer’s New Watch Is Insanely Cool…. and Inverted? | Bernhard Lederer CIC InVerto!

Bernhard Lederer, a highly skilled Master Watchmaker of German origin, has established himself in the heart of Swiss watchmaking, Saint Blaise near Neuchâtel. His exceptional craftsmanship and innovative concepts stem from a unique perspective of “Thinking Different.” With a deep appreciation for the horological heritage and a profound respect for esteemed figures like John Harrison, […]

Farer’s Latest is Inspired by the Pullman Company, the Historic UK Train Car Manufacturer Worn & Wound
Casio ns Dec 12, 2023

Farer’s Latest is Inspired by the Pullman Company, the Historic UK Train Car Manufacturer

When it comes to setting the standard for British elegance, does anyone do it better than Farer? The London-based watchmaker, whose timepieces are produced in Switzerland, recently launched their latest in the Cushion Case collection: The Durham Pullman. Evoking a bygone era, this latest from Farer takes inspiration from the Pullman Company, manufacturer of train cars throughout the United Kingdom. With this, the mixture of greens and silver balances a bit of sophistication with everyday wear. The dial is the real selling point of this watch, so we’ll talk about that first. The dial boasts a luxurious dark green hue with a metallic brushed finish, lending it a dynamic tone under varying lights. Atop this base, a raised ring with a radial brushed finish creates the distinctive sector dial effect of the Cushion Case collection. Resting on this ring are highly polished silver markers- a blend of batons and Roman numerals-accompanied by a refined dauphine handset. Complementing these silver elements is the seconds sub-dial, featuring a sunken silver channel with an engine-turned finish. These meticulous details converge to establish the seasonal release of the Durham Pullman as an exceptionally refined timepiece suitable for both formal occasions and weekend outings alike. As part of the Cushion Collection, the Durham Pullman is bound to have presence when worn due to its shape and easy-to-style size that complements a variety of wearers. Sitting at 38.5 mm with a 43.8mm...

Introducing – The Breguet Reine de Naples 8925 Valentine’s Day Edition 2024 Monochrome
Breguet Reine de Naples 8925 Dec 11, 2023

Introducing – The Breguet Reine de Naples 8925 Valentine’s Day Edition 2024

As the leading watchmaker of his day, Abraham-Louis Breguet hobnobbed with France’s royalty and aristocracy. Apart from his commissions for gentlemen, his celebrity client list also included Queen Marie-Antoinette, Empress Josephine, and Caroline Murat, Napoleon Bonaparte’s youngest sister, aka the Queen of Naples. A keen collector of Breguet’s revolutionary timekeepers, in 1810, Caroline Murat placed […]

Unimatic Debuts a New, Smaller Case Size in a Limited Edition Release with Massena LAB Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Dec 7, 2023

Unimatic Debuts a New, Smaller Case Size in a Limited Edition Release with Massena LAB

The latest collaboration between design firm Massena LAB, and Italian watchmaker UNIMATIC is well underway with their Modello Cinque U5S-ML. Like any good partnership, both parties should bring something to the table – and this timepiece is no exception. Combining the thoughtful design language that Massena has become known for, with the craftsmanship of Unimatic, the U5S-ML is nuanced, balanced and, above all, flattering for just about anyone. Most noticeable upfront is the smaller size of this reference. The Modello Cinque U5S-ML boasts a 36mm brushed stainless steel case. For those who have followed UNIMATIC, you might be aware that this smaller case size is a departure for the brand – but should be a welcome one for enthusiasts looking for a watch with a smaller footprint. The 36mm style firmly places the U5S-ML in the midsize and unisex categories, broadening the appeal to a wider and more diverse audience.  The watch itself was inspired by the industrial style boom of the mid-1900’s, with reference points taken from the work of Dieter Rams and even Bavarian automobile dashboards. This is most evident in the clean lines and minimalistic dial that’s unobtrusive but nonetheless stylish and modern. Running along the matte black dial surface we have glossy white markers, and hour and minute hands that are matte black ladder phantoms (and accented in Super-LumiNova C1). The same design details are found on the caseback, which features a UNIMATIC x Massena LAB Fibo...

Up Close: Citizen Caliber 0210 “The Citizen” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Dec 5, 2023

Up Close: Citizen Caliber 0210 “The Citizen”

Citizen launched its flagship mechanical watch, the Caliber 0200, two years ago. Despite being better known for high-end quartz watches – including the most accurate ever – the  Japanese watchmaker managed an impressively executed three-handed sports watch, with an equally outstanding new movement. Now the model finally receives a mechanical upgrade with the Caliber 0210, which incorporates a date along with subtle improvements to the external design, while retaining the excellent case and bracelet that define the model. Initial thoughts The Caliber 0210 indicates the brand’s interest in further developing this excellent model – encouraging for fans of the model like myself. Despite the Caliber 0210 looking much like its predecessor, it is actually a substantially different watch in tangible terms. Ordinarily the addition of a date would be a no-no for a purist enthusiast, but here the date is integrated well in terms of dial proportions and (re)design. The appealing attributes of the Caliber 0200, and now the Caliber 0210, clearly mark the two out as watches conceived for a niche audience, namely enthusiasts who appreciate quality – and are able to distinguish this from the competition (Grand Seiko to state the obvious). However, this target audience often prefers the purity of a three-hand watch without a date. At the same time, this audience comprehends the substantive upgrades in the Caliber 0210 beyond the date – amongst them the improved case constructi...

Introducing – The Retro-Styled Union Glashütte Noramis Chronograph Sport Monochrome
Union Glashütte Dec 4, 2023

Introducing – The Retro-Styled Union Glashütte Noramis Chronograph Sport

German watchmaker Union Glashütte expands its Noramis collection by introducing three chronograph references tailored for aquatic adventures. The Noramis Date Sport (2021) marked the inception of the sporty retro-inspired series, featuring a unidirectionally rotating bezel and boasting 200m water resistance with distinctive gradient dials. Drawing inspiration from the success of this model and existing Noramis […]

The Girard-Perregaux Neo Bridges in Aston Martin Racing Green SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Neo Bridges Nov 27, 2023

The Girard-Perregaux Neo Bridges in Aston Martin Racing Green

Born from the official partnership between Girard-Perregaux and Aston Martin, the Neo Bridges Aston Martin Edition, facelifts the entry-level mode of the watchmaker’s signature “Bridge” line. Drawing inspiration from the Aston Martin DB12 grand tourer, the new timepiece merges horology and automotive inspiration. Initial thoughts The origin of Girard-Perregaux’s “Bridge” collection is entirely classical, starting in the 19th century with the Three Gold Bridges tourbillon pocket watches that were made in tiny numbers (including one sold to the President of Mexico). The brand has modernised the line in recent years with the Neo Bridges and now adds to the mix a motorsport brand with a rich heritage, which further emphasises the sporty, contemporary nature of the design. The Neo Bridges fully embraces a forward-looking aesthetic, so the Aston Martin connection is natural considering the carmaker’s creations in the super-, hyper-, and concept-car space. Admittedly, the changes to the Aston Martin edition are largely cosmetic, but they are done well. I think this edition offers a more appealing and more functional look than recent editions like the Earth and Sky that had fewer luminous components on the dial. The only aspect of the watch that could be done better is the Aston Martin logo printed on the sapphire case back; I would have prefer a logo discreetly engraved on the rim of the case back. However, the Aston Martin connection brings with it an increase in ...

You can now watch the Horage “Chasing Microns” documentary in full Time+Tide
Nov 16, 2023

You can now watch the Horage “Chasing Microns” documentary in full

These days there is plenty of watch video content to check out on YouTube and social media, but we rarely get feature-length horological films. I can only name a handful, like The Watchmaker’s Apprentice, Keeper of Time, and Making Time. Over the last month, the independent watch brand Horage has been trickling out chapters of their documentary Chasing … ContinuedThe post You can now watch the Horage “Chasing Microns” documentary in full appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar Reference 3541: An Oft-Forgotten Eternal Gem – Reprise Quill & Pad
IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar Reference Nov 5, 2023

IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar Reference 3541: An Oft-Forgotten Eternal Gem – Reprise

IWC is a brand with a rich history, and it is in the fortunate position that each of its collections has an almost equal share in building this history. The Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar, developed by IWC's master watchmaker Kurt Klaus, was a horological revolution. And from it came this elegant Portofino variation of the 1990s.

Tough and Technical Watches from Citizen: The Promaster Altichron and Promaster Tough Worn & Wound
Citizen Nov 3, 2023

Tough and Technical Watches from Citizen: The Promaster Altichron and Promaster Tough

As a watchmaker, Citizen is as diversified as any in regards to the sheer breadth and width of its catalog. Collectors can get lost in the histories of cult classic dive watches while marveling at modern atomic timing tech. If there were two core attributes across Citizen’s diverse offerings, they could be summed up as “tough” and “technical”. Chalk it up to Japanese excellence or decades of innovation – either way you are getting a solid product. The modern lineup of Promaster watches epitomizes the toughness and technical know-how of Citizen. It is considered the “Professional” line of watches, and here are two models to consider adding to your arsenal for your next adventure. As a watchmaker, Citizen is as diversified as any in regards to the sheer breadth and width of its catalog. Collectors can get lost in the histories of cult classic dive watches while marveling at modern atomic timing tech. If there were two core attributes across Citizen’s diverse offerings, they could be summed up as “tough” and “technical”. Chalk it up to Japanese excellence or decades of innovation – either way you are getting a solid product. The modern lineup of Promaster watches epitomizes the toughness and technical know-how of Citizen. It is considered the “Professional” line of watches, and here are two models to consider adding to your arsenal for your next adventure. The post Tough and Technical Watches from Citizen: The Promaster Altichron and Promaster ...

Zenith Watches: A Brief History and Overview of the Modern Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Oct 13, 2023

Zenith Watches: A Brief History and Overview of the Modern Collection

Zenith SA, a Swiss watchmaker that traces its roots all the way back to 1865, is best known these days for its historic and hugely influential El Primero chronograph caliber, but the company can lay claim to many other horological milestones and accolades as well, some of which might be somewhat less than common knowledge. Did you know, for example, that Zenith has won more chronometry awards than any other watch brand? Or that it was once owned by an electronics company of the same name? Or that it is the only brand that’s allowed to put “Pilot” on a pilot’s watch dial? In this in-depth feature, I explore these and other aspects of Zenith’s fascinating history and also offer a primer on the manufacture’s modern watch collections. Georges-Favre-Jacot and Historic Integration Watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot (above) was a mere 22 years of age when he founded the atelier that would become Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Favre-Jacot, a contemporary of Swiss modern architecture pioneer Le Corbusier, embraced a similarly modern approach to making watches, taking his cues from the American firms Waltham and Elgin, which had found success by introducing mass production into the traditionally artisanal business. His company, originally called Georges Favre-Jacot & Co., was the first Swiss watch producer to bring the various disciplines of horology under one roof - as opposed to the more common établissage system that most watchmakers used at the time, which h...

How To Clean A Watch Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 28, 2023

How To Clean A Watch

When you’re starting or building upon a watch collection, keeping those watches clean is probably a matter to which you rarely give much thought on a day-to-day basis. Of course, there’s always the least time-intensive option, outsourcing your watch’s semi-regular cleaning to your local watchmaker or watch repairer when you send the timepiece in for its recommended technical maintenance. But if you’re interested in keeping your timepieces in tip-top condition between services - and especially if you have notions of perhaps selling or trading any of them for the maximum return - there are some simple steps you can take on your own, for minimal cost, that can ensure your watches are maintained at a level that’s both presentable and potentially sellable. Watches, after all, are not only luxury objects; they are also items that are worn regularly, day after day in some cases, like a pair of boots or shoes, or an overcoat. And like those items, they encounter all kinds of conditions based upon the wearer’s lifestyle, occupation, and recreational pursuits. Watches are also worn right against the skin, with all of the exposure to sweat, dirt, and unexpected atmospheric splatter that implies. Thus, regular cleaning of your watches should be considered a regular chore in the cycle of life, like doing the laundry or washing your car. The go-to shortcut of wiping the watch’s crystal with an untucked shirt tail or handkerchief - we’ve all done it - isn’t goin...