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Las Vegas ‘prostitute’ with lion tattoo stole Rolex and Audemars Piguet watches from hotel rooms Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet watches from hotel rooms Apr 23, 2021

Las Vegas ‘prostitute’ with lion tattoo stole Rolex and Audemars Piguet watches from hotel rooms

If you happen to find yourself in Las Vegas and find yourself with an attractive young woman with a lion tattoo on her thigh, keep a close eye on your watch. That’s the early take-home from a case that will go before a Sin City court next month in which two men had luxury watches … ContinuedThe post Las Vegas ‘prostitute’ with lion tattoo stole Rolex and Audemars Piguet watches from hotel rooms appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A photographer explains why the Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch is so great to shoot Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch Apr 14, 2021

A photographer explains why the Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch is so great to shoot

Earlier this year Grand Seiko announced a watch that was an instant hit within collectors’ circles. The new Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 9SA5 Series 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 had everything you might expect from a Grand Seiko. It had a well-proportioned 40mm steel case, contained the brand-new 9SA5 automatic hi-beat movement and also featured a … ContinuedThe post A photographer explains why the Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch is so great to shoot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C QF Jubilee SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Apr 10, 2021

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C QF Jubilee

Named after Chopard founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the L.U.C line is all about haute horlogerie, encompassing both complications and fine finishing. To commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier, the brand is releasing the L.U.C QF Jubilee, a doubly-certified chronometer with a steel case, offering a finely finished movement at a relatively accessible price. Initial Thoughts The L.U.C QF Jubilee is an attractive watch that straddles the line between vintage and modern design. It is 39 mm wide and a hair under 9 mm thick, making it the perfect size for a classically-styled dress watch. The vintage inspiration extends to the shape of the lugs and the proportions of the mirror-polished case – both the bezel and case back are domed and sandwich a thin case middle, giving it proportions reminiscent of watches from the first half of the 20th century. Despite being a dress watch, the QF Jubilee is surprisingly practical – the hands are filled with Super-LumiNova, as are the indices. While the sector-style design and syringe hands are vintage-inspired, the blue-on-silver colours and lume are concessions to modernity. But the best thing about the watch is the movement, which is an in-house automatic with a sophisticated construction and refined finishing. Even though the calibre is not decorated to the top grade of L.U.C finishing (those have the Poincon de Geneve), it is good enough to be better than almost all watches at this price range. The vinta...

Patek Philippe Unveils the Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5990/1R in Rose Gold SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Apr 8, 2021

Patek Philippe Unveils the Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5990/1R in Rose Gold

Patek Philippe’s most coveted model line, the Nautilus was the focus of the four new launches at Watches & Wonders 2021. In addition to the ref. 5711/1A with an olive-green dial, the second new Nautilus for men is the Nautilus Travel-Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1R-001, a rich combination of a rose gold case with a deep blue dial. An ultra-luxe travel watch (that’s still a bit more affordable than the recent Greubel Forsey GMT Sport), the ref. 5990 has been one of the most complicated models in the Nautilus line since its introduction in 2014. First launched in stainless steel with a black dial, the ref. 5990 was an instant hit due to its good looks and practicality – and the fact that it’s a Nautilus. Initial thoughts In rose gold case with a blue dial, rendered in a shade of blue similar to that of the original ref. 5711/1A, the new ref. 5990/1R-001 is a good-looking timepiece that no doubt looks and feels like a luxury-sports watch, albeit more luxury than sports. If the steel ref. 5990/1A wasn’t not luxe enough, this ought to do the trick. Leaving aside the fact that it’s a Nautilus, hence an ultra fashionable watch that’s near impossible to get, the ref. 5990 is appealing in its intrinsic qualities, regardless of material. Despite the complications, the ref. 5990 is actually svelte, just 12.53 mm high, making it one of the slimmer flyback chronographs on the market – and it also incorporates a second time zone function. Add to that the fine finishing of...

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Apr 8, 2021

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K

Tudor’s first-ever solid-gold dive watch is making its debut at Watches & Wonders 2021. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K has a case in 18k yellow gold – in a sleek, brushed finish – along with a gold-flecked green dial. (And the Fifty-Eight 18k is launching alongside the more affordable Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 with a sterling silver case.) And despite being ultra-luxe for Tudor, the Fifty-Eight 18k is very much like the rest of Tudor’s offerings in being a value proposition, with a retail price of a bit over US$18,000 – a solid deal for a solid-gold dive watch. Initial Thoughts If there is one thing this year’s Watches & Wonders has made abundantly clear, it is that green is the new flavour of the day. The Fifty-Eight 18K is one of many green watches being launched – but doubtlessly the best value proposition – and Tudor opted for a dark, rich green that complements the case metal. Stylistically, the new Fifty-Eight models are polar opposites. The sterling-silver 925 is reserved and subtle, while the 18K clearly has greater visual impact. The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K comes with two straps: alligator leather and fabric The Fifty-Eight 18k is expensive for a Tudor, with a retail price of US$18,340. That’s over US$15,000 more than last year’s navy blue version in steel. But – and this is a big but – when compared with the precious-metal dive watches made by practically every other brand, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K is a bargain in relative te...

Review: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M in the new Black Black Deployant
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Apr 3, 2021

Review: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M in the new Black Black

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black is possibly the best looking modern Seamaster in today's lineup. It is in the larger size variant at 43.5 mm, but benefits from an all black case, dial and hands combination. By virtue of this matte black color, the watch is stealthy and unpretentious. The reliability of the co-axial movement with tested accuracy and anti-magnetism makes it ideal for a daily beater. Water proof to 300m, and fitted with a rubber strap, the watch is definitely versatile and sporty. It is priced at US$8650.

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel “High Jewellery” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Mar 26, 2021

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel “High Jewellery”

A watch that combines the famous octagonal case with an innovative movement, the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked is unquestionably the most technically interesting time-only Audemars Piguet (AP) Royal Oak. And then there’s this bejewelled version that’s certainly a lot more extravagant, but at the same time shows off the details and finishing of the movement better. Initial thoughts This watch is the ultimate black-tie watch – time-only and eminently classical in size at just 37 mm. In fact, it’s quite a bit smaller than the 41 mm standard model, making it a discreet fit under a cuff that will probably be secured by diamond-set cufflinks. It’s also dressed up with a glossy crocodile strap and a lot of generously sized, baguette-cut diamonds – a technically-inclined watch that takes its bling seriously. But this is not just another octagonal watch with diamonds. The movement relies on a novel technical concept for better timekeeping, but its technical merits are usually overlooked because it is installed inside a “hot” watch. And this particular version of the movement is more attractively executed here than on the standard models. Because movement here is plated in silvery rhodium – no doubt to match the dazzling whiteness of the diamonds – it’s more appealing than on the non-jewelled versions that have a dark grey ruthenium finish that’s almost black. While the finishing of the two is essentially identical, the dark finish obscures much ...

MB&F; Marks the 10th Anniversary of the Legacy Machine SJX Watches
MB&F; Mar 24, 2021

MB&F; Marks the 10th Anniversary of the Legacy Machine

Though MB&F; was founded on the premise of avant-grade expressions of the watch case with its Horological Machines, the brand has an equally successful, and far more traditional, collection of watches with conventional round cases, the Legacy Machines (LM). It’s hard to believe, but the LM collection is a decade old now (and MB&F; itself is almost 16 years old). For the LM’s 10th anniversary, MB&F; has created ultimate version of the LM1, the watch that launched the series. Short for Legacy Machine X – with the final letter being a Roman “10” – the LMX incorporates diverse elements from the past decade’s watches as well as several new ideas, resulting in a familiar but all-new “machine”. So it has the familiar twin sub-dials for two time zones, but now inclined. Likewise, the LMX features a vertical power reserve indicator, but now made more elaborate with a spherical display. And all of that is contained within a thinner case that’s similar to that first seen on the LM Thunderdome triple-axis tourbillon. The LMX in pink gold Initial thoughts Compared to the original LM1, the LMX is indeed heavily upgraded inside and out, with a sleeker styling that includes a more three-dimensional dial, as well as a newly-developed, triple-barrel movement with weeklong power reserve. By most measures, the LMX is an excellent evolution of the original LM idea – and an impressive watch in its own right – but it does feel less adventurous than it should be for a milest...

VIDEO: Bright candy dials meet carbon fibre in the new DOXA SUB 300 Carbon range Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 300 Carbon range Mar 15, 2021

VIDEO: Bright candy dials meet carbon fibre in the new DOXA SUB 300 Carbon range

Thanks to the vintage looks of its steel case, the DOXA SUB 300 is a cult diver’s watch. But ever since the SUB 300 Aqualung US Divers in carbon fibre came out, its dark presence has haunted the dreams of DOXA fans (in a good way).  Sleek and moody, the DOXA SUB 300 Carbon turns up … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Bright candy dials meet carbon fibre in the new DOXA SUB 300 Carbon range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Studio Underd0g are smashing Kickstarter with a fresh sense of humour. We talk to their founder about making watches fun again Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g Mar 14, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Studio Underd0g are smashing Kickstarter with a fresh sense of humour. We talk to their founder about making watches fun again

Studio Underd0g have a refreshingly playful approach to watchmaking. As the British microbrand explain on their website. “When the biggest news in the watch-world for 2020 is that a certain brand (that shall not be named) had increased their case size by an unfathomable 1mm it got us thinking… Why… so… serious…? Don’t worry, we … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Studio Underd0g are smashing Kickstarter with a fresh sense of humour. We talk to their founder about making watches fun again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Mid-Century Movado Chronographs SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Mar 1, 2021

In-Depth: Mid-Century Movado Chronographs

Every time you read a story about the ocean, there’s a good chance you’ll see that it is “95% unexplored”, or “we know more about the surface of the moon than of the seafloor”. As most tropes go, they are as annoying as they are true, and in this case they’re also an apt metaphor for vintage watch knowledge. While the details of vintage Patek Philippe and Rolex have been mapped down to their going trains, numerous brands remain relatively uncharted – a Marianas Trench’s of knowledge awaiting exploration. Midcentury Movado chronographs lie squarely at those depths; let’s dive in. As we arrive at the door of our submersible, we must first acknowledge those who have assembled taxonomies of this scantly-explored abyss: the late Fritz van Osterhausen, author of The Movado History, and the excellent M95 chronograph reference the e-newsletter Rescapement published a few years ago. Using their ballast - no, I haven’t run out of nautical metaphors yet - we hope to fathom yet further. Today, we’ll peer into with what many consider the pinnacle of Movado collecting, its exceptionally-cased midcentury chronographs. History Until the 21st century, Swiss watch production was predominantly a cottage industry. Specialists manufactured the case, dial, or ebauche (movement blank), and peddled their wares to as many brands as possible. While final products were modified to brand specifications, family traits are easily discernible across marques that shared sup...

MICRO MONDAYS: The William Wood Triumph collection is a set of chronographs ready to catch fire Time+Tide
Feb 28, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The William Wood Triumph collection is a set of chronographs ready to catch fire

William Wood is known for their well built and accessibly priced timepieces, all of which are inspired by fire rescue and the brave people who put their lives on the line every day. We’ve covered the full backstory of the brand and its name before, but just to recap: William Wood was the name of … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The William Wood Triumph collection is a set of chronographs ready to catch fire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Revives the Fliegerchronograph Ceramic 3705 SJX Watches
IWC Revives Feb 25, 2021

IWC Revives the Fliegerchronograph Ceramic 3705

Perhaps the most widely leaked recent launch, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” is a remake of the uncommon, ceramic-case Fliegerchronograph of 1994. Available only online via IWC’s web store, the Tribute to 3705 reproduces the look of the original, but in a larger case made of Ceratanium, essentially a titanium-ceramic composite. And the movement is the in-house cal. 69380. Initial thoughts Possessing the clear, functional style of IWC’s first-generation pilot’s watches, the original 3705 was a good looking watch. Being a pretty faithful remake, the Tribute to 3705 is almost as attractive. A little of the original’s proportions have been lost – the hour hand on the remake looks a bit short – but the Tribute to 3705 is appealing. And it’s also an upgrade with the new case material as well as the in-house movement, which enhances the appeal. It is, however, expensive at US$11,900. That’s 20% more pricey than the Top Gun “SFTI” chronograph, which has a ceramic case and the same movement. No doubt conceived to capitalise on desirability of the original 3705 – an example once owned by former IWC chief executive Gunter Blumlein sold for a little under US$54,000 in 2018 – the Tribute to 3705 will be sold exclusively online via IWC.com. That makes the project feel a little opportunistic, since it means IWC will retain almost all of the margin on the watch, instead of having to split it with a third-party retailer or even a...

Living With: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” SJX Watches
Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” When Feb 19, 2021

Living With: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”

When Zenith first took the covers off the Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” in the middle of last year, my immediate reaction was “That’s a super cool-looking watch.” Unlike its fellow remakes like the A384 and A386, or the more recent A385, the Shadow isn’t a replica of an actual vintage watch Zenith produced in its heyday before the Quartz Crisis. While the Shadow was inspired by a 1970 prototype with a black-coated case that never made it into production, the Shadow is very much a modern design. It imagines what a vintage A384 might have been, had it been released in all-black livery in the 1970s. Compared to Zenith’s recent vintage-inspired watches, most of which are faithful remakes, the Shadow is a breath of fresh air. So when Zenith offered the chance for me to spend a couple of days with the watch, I seized it. The El Primero A384 Revival that’s a faithful remake of the vintage original Initial thoughts I had a visceral reaction when I first strapped on the Shadow: my heart sang, and a smile crept onto my face. I was struck by how different it looked on the wrist; distinct not only from the other El Primero chronographs, but against other offerings at the same price point. In fact, it looked to me more like a Bamford collaboration rather than a standard model. On the wrist, the Shadow stands out in a subtle but striking manner, especially to a watch enthusiast. Anyone who knows Zenith will understand that’s an A384, but different. Reductive desig...

Longines Introduces Avigation BigEye Titanium SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Avigation BigEye Titanium Feb 16, 2021

Longines Introduces Avigation BigEye Titanium

When Longines first remade a 1970s pilot’s chronograph as the Avigation BigEye Chronograph, it was well received for being a faithful re-interpretation priced affordably, as most other Longines reissues are. While the 2017 model was a dead ringer for the vintage original, Longines has just facelifted the watch, giving it a titanium case and gradient blue dial. That gives the Avigation BigEye Titanium more modern look, which along with the upgraded case, results in a steeper price that’s about a quarter more than that of the steel model. Initial thoughts Longines has been hitting it out of the park with its recent remakes – the Silver Arrow, Classic “Tuxedo” Chronograph, and Heritage Classic “Sector” Dial – that are smartly designed and good value, and despite the hike in price, BigEye Titanium is no exception. While the steel BigEye had a utilitarian look like the 1970s original, the titanium version is decidedly more contemporary. The gradient blue dial is bold, and also fashionable today, with a sandblasted texture adding further visual intrigue. I like the juxtaposition of the black sub-dials against the blue gradient finish, though the faux patina on the hands and indices might be a bit too affected, especially with the modern look. Despite the tweaks, the BigEye Titanium retains the same legible design, thus preserving the historical raison d’etre of its design. Another notable feature is the titanium case, which makes the new BigEye the brand...

2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review Feb 12, 2021

2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review

Pros: Graduated shades of intense blues on the dialA real joy to see the redesigned calibre 899 on the case back ISO 6425 complaint proper ‘diving’ watch  Cons: Some may not be fans of the screw-in internal Bezel 42mm case size will wear large on wrists smaller than 6.5 inchesSome may find it pricey  Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8.5/10Build Quality – 8.5/10  Reference : 9068180 Late last year in October 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Polaris Mariner for their Polaris collection. The Polaris Mariner is a range of high-performing diving watches that pay homage to the brand’s diving legacy and almost 100 years of knowledge and expertise on chiming watches. Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced two watches to their sporty and elegant Polaris collection; the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Polaris Mariner Date. What we have on our hands today is the classic diving piece the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date.  Case: Reference : 9068180 The case on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date is as close as it gets to the vintage 1968 Memovox Polaris. This 1968 model was the first true diving watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre, which included an internal rotating bezel, an alarm, and a triple-layer case-back for better sound transmission. With the latest Polaris Mariner Date model, the alarm and sound transmission mechanisms have been left out for the Memovox model, with the Mariner Date being the simple yet classic diving...

Insight: Patents in Watchmaking SJX Watches
Omega Feb 8, 2021

Insight: Patents in Watchmaking

Patents in watchmaking are often brushed over by the brand themselves, except when tallying them in marketing material. But they are important, and can be foundational to a brand, as George Daniels’ famed co-axial escapement is synonymous with Omega. But there is a great deal more in watchmaking that can be protected with a patent than a lubrication-free escapement. A large proportion of the parts that make up a watch – from case materials to time-display mechanisms – can be patented, and often are. That begs the question: what exactly can be patented? The common obstacle encountered by a would-be inventor is that patents are notoriously difficult to secure, especially if applied for without specialist help. Going from application to approval of a patent often requires several years, and approval is not a certainty. Gaining a patent hinges on three criteria: the invention in question must be new, non-obvious, and useful. Beyond the necessary knowledge of prior inventions – in order to prove the patent-pending idea is new – the incredibly specific wording required for patents can be daunting to an independent applicant, so it usually falls to a patent attorney to lead the application process. But patents can be lucrative for an inventor, especially for an innovation targeted at the consumer, which is why new patents are registered every day. The United States Patent and Trademark Office, for instance, received just under 670,000 patent applications in 2019, and gr...

Hublot Upgrades the Big Bang Integral SJX Watches
Hublot Upgrades Feb 5, 2021

Hublot Upgrades the Big Bang Integral

The quintessential Hublot wristwatch, the Big Bang was revamped in a big way last year – in time for its 15th anniversary – gaining a brand-new bracelet that seamlessly integrates into a redesigned case. And now Hublot has upgraded the original with the Big Bang Integral Ceramic, an all-ceramic chronograph offered in surprising colours. Initial thoughts Being the same watch as last year’s model, save for the material, the new ceramic chronograph has all the same qualities as the original. It’s a large, but not enormous, watch that wears well, especially in its lighter iterations. Also noteworthy is stepped-up finishing compared with earlier generations of the Big Bang. And the design is also well done; the integrated bracelet, in particular, is commendable for how it, well, integrates into the case, especially since the Big Bang is most often found on a strap. That said, the new Big Bang Integral Ceramic is a lot more attractive than the original version in titanium or gold. Besides being scratch-resistant, ceramic is lightweight, colourful, and glossy, giving it a look and feel ideal for a fashionable sports watch. If you like this look – an oversized, technical-looking sports chronograph – the Big Bang Integral is a strong performer. The ceramic bracelet links have alternating brushed and polished surfaces The integrated-bracelet sports watch segment is crowded and competitive. Positioned at the mid to upper-end of its class, the Big Bang Integral Ceramic...

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph is set to be one of the boldest sports watches of 2020 Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Feb 2, 2021

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph is set to be one of the boldest sports watches of 2020

The term “luxury sports watch” is often an overused clichè.  But the Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph leaves you in no doubt of its intentions. A bold case combined with serious swagger and eye-popping green accents makes it a bright spark of contemporary design in a world of homage watches. Shy it ain’t. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Graphite Race Chronograph is set to be one of the boldest sports watches of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Silver SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jan 25, 2021

Zenith Introduces the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Silver

Launched alongside the Chronomaster Sport at LVMH Watch Week, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Silver is a limited edition that’s a nod to Zenith’s long history of aviation watches – with a twist. While the style is the 1920s-inspired look typical of Zenith’s Pilot range, the new chronograph is dressed entirely in sterling silver, giving it a bright finish. Inspired by the aluminium bodies of vintage aircraft, the silver case will darken with time as the alloy oxidises, but the dial will remain pristine, protected by the case. Initial thoughts Zenith has been on a tear in recent years, introducing a diversity of watches, ranging from the Chronomaster Revival A385 to the mind-boggling Defy Inventor. Few of the new launches were Pilot models, resulting in a quiet spell for the line, a shame considering Zenith’s storied heritage in aviation watches. The new chronograph will no doubt do its part to revive the line. Pilot’s watches are often aesthetically conservative – not so here. The Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Silver is meant to stand out on the wrist, and I’m all for it. I had the opportunity to interact with a prototype, and the riveted, silver dial looks even better in the metal. The brushed surface has a shimmering quality that changes under different light, allowing it to catch the eye from every angle. Clad in silver The Chronograph Silver is cased in sterling silver, or 925, indicating it is 92.5% silver by weight. While not the first Pilot ...

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph Jan 24, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial

Last year, the time-only Octo Finissimo watches received a major upgrade in the form of a screw-down crown and improved depth rating of 100 metres. They also received contrasting finishes to the highly faceted surfaces of the case and bracelet. This resulted in a greater play with light and a watch that became both more … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is sportier and tougher with a panda dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Blindsided by brilliance: three Grand Seiko watches from 2020 that we never saw coming Time+Tide
Grand Seiko watches from 2020 Jan 23, 2021

Blindsided by brilliance: three Grand Seiko watches from 2020 that we never saw coming

Grand Seiko and their meticulous artistry never cease to amaze me. Each watch has a rich back story with every dial tone, texture, case form and finish carefully selected in order to best convey the brand’s grammar of design. Their relationship with Japanese culture and the nature that surrounds their workshops really shines through in … ContinuedThe post Blindsided by brilliance: three Grand Seiko watches from 2020 that we never saw coming appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

De Bethune Introduces the Double-Faced DB28 Tourbillon SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was patented Jan 20, 2021

De Bethune Introduces the Double-Faced DB28 Tourbillon

Highly regarded for its original and inventive watches that blend high tech and classical, De Bethune’s latest personifies the brand’s twin personalities – literally. Based on its signature DB28, the Kind of Two Tourbillon is De Bethune’s innovative take on the reversible watch. The trademark “floating” lugs of the DB28 have been reengineered to incorporate a compact pivot for the case, allowing it to swivel in either direction, creating a sleek, symmetrical double-sided watch unlike any other. Initial thoughts While the brand got its start with traditional, Breguet-inspired watches, its raison d’etre quickly evolved into pushing the boundaries of watchmaking – both technically and visually – typified by the Kind of Two Tourbillon. Reversible watches aren’t novel, having been around since the 1930s – the iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was patented in 1931, and the most expensive watch ever is also double-faced – and are often classically styled. Most notably, Bovet has a diverse offering of highly-complicated, double-faced watches, but all executed in the Baroque style its favours. In contrast, the Kind of Two Tourbillon is clearly contemporary – and one of its face is definitely sci-fi – illustrating the technical prowess of De Bethune while expressing its avant-garde house style. The sci-fi face But because it is essentially a variant of the DB28, the Kind of Two Tourbillon will be actually wearable despite its mechanical complexity and ...

Here’s why a Patek Philippe can take six (or more) years to make - a timeline Time+Tide
Patek Philippe can take six or Jan 19, 2021

Here’s why a Patek Philippe can take six (or more) years to make - a timeline

When a watch enthusiast approaches a timepiece, they usually ask about specifications like case diameter or movement caliber first. Most people, however, will first want to know the price. It can prove a bit of a shock that such a small object can have such a high price tag. It is no secret that luxury … ContinuedThe post Here’s why a Patek Philippe can take six (or more) years to make – a timeline appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary SJX Watches
Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary Jan 18, 2021

Up Close: Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary

Announced quietly late last year and already in stores, the Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary (ref. WGTA0057) is a limited edition to mark the centenary of the jeweller’s formal watch for men. A handsome watch that faithfully replicates nearly all elements of the vintage original, the anniversary edition is distinct from the 2018 Tank Cintrée in both case and movement. In fact, the anniversary model is actually a revival of the 2005 Tank Cintrée. The elegance and refinement, however, comes at an unusually high price. A variety of modern-day Tank Cintrée iterations Initial thoughts The Tank Cintrée is a formal watch, with all the elegance and simplicity that dictates, while being a form watch, instead of a plain, round shape that most dress watches are. That’s the singular talent of the Tank Cintrée, explaining why it remains appealing after a century. Practically a one-to-one remake of the 1920s Tank Cintrée, the anniversary edition – like most other vintage remakes – scores high on beauty since the original was attractive, but low on imagination and novelty. And more notably, the anniversary edition is a revival of the a more recent watch, the Tank Cintrée in yellow gold of 2005 – both have the same case and movement. Perfectly executed as a remake, the anniversary edition reproduces the look of a vintage original well in all aspects. But the anniversary edition approximates how a 1920s example would look today, after a century of ageing, rather ...

Ming Debuts the Facelifted, Ultra-Thin 27.02 SJX Watches
Ming Jan 14, 2021

Ming Debuts the Facelifted, Ultra-Thin 27.02

An evolution of the 27.01, the brand’s original extra-flat watch, the Ming 27.02 is a gentle redesign, retaining the same svelte case and movement, but incorporating a sapphire dial that has a gradient finish that sits on a clous de Paris guilloché ring around its perimeter – albeit at a substantially higher price. The 27.02 also marks the end of the 27 series; Ming “will be retiring the [series] permanently” once its production is complete. Initial thoughts The fact that Ming watches sell out swiftly upon launch attests to the popularity of its watches. So it is perhaps inevitable that the brand is gradually increasing the prices of its watches – albeit with upgrades to the product – as it repositions itself as a more upmarket brand. While the brand’s inaugural 17 series was well liked for being outstanding value – they were mostly under 1,500 Swiss francs – the 27.02 and recent launches like the Diver 18.01 indicate that Ming’s “budget” days seem to be well over. I find the 27.02 to be a fine, handsome watch, with a design that’s quintessentially Ming. The smoked sapphire dial is clever, with its gradient finish making the watch visually intriguing, creating a sense of visual depth that belies its thinness. Nevertheless, the 27.02 is very much the same watch as the 27.01 (which in turn was an upgraded derivative of the 17 series). Both share the exact same case and movement – an ETA Peseux 7001 that has been significantly reworked by Sc...