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Big Date watches: updates to our recommendation for six of the best
We update our picks on Big Date recommendations as the last one was way back in 2017. Here is this is our rather electic new picks.
Results for Newman's Daytona at Phillips, October 2017
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SJX Watches
Franck Muller Unveils Cintrée Curvex Central Tourbillon
Having proclaimed himself the “Master of Complications”, Franck Muller the man was once one of the most inventive contemporary watchmakers. He has stepped back from the business that bears his name – which is now known for its extravagant style – but the brand continues to have the occasional interesting complication. The Grand Central Tourbillon is one such watch, boasting a large, flying tourbillon at the centre of the dial. Offered in a variety of coloured dials with “exploding” numerals, the Grand Central Tourbillon is powered by an automatic, form movement that traces the shape of the brand’s signature Cintrée Curvex case. Initial thoughts Today Franck Muller is mostly associated with flashy watches like the Vanguard Skeleton Sapphire. But long ago Franck Muller himself debuted his first tourbillon wristwatch in 1984 – a Breguet-inspired watch with just “Franck” on the dial – the first of many tourbillons he would go on to create. The Grand Central Tourbillon evokes some of Franck Muller’s history with its unusual central tourbillon. The complication is rare, with only a handful of brands having accomplished a central tourbillon, most notable amongst them Omega and Beat Haldimann. And Franck Muller has made it more interesting – the movement is automatic with a four-day power reserve. As per the norm for the brand, the Grand Central Tourbillon is available in myriad colours and metals – some iterations almost indistinguishable from the...
Quill & Pad
Stainless Steel Patek Philippe Nautilus Market Madness: Thoughts On The Current Market Situation – Reprise
Since January of 2016, secondary market prices of stainless steel Patek Philippe Nautilus models have surged in a fashion rarely seen. This phenomenon – and it is that – is exceptional for reasons including the relative age of the models involved, the magnitude of the surge, and the speed with which it struck. Here Tim Mosso takes a closer look at the current secondary market insanity of the Nautilus.
Quill & Pad
Rolex Datejust 36 Reference 126234: A Crowning Achievement In ‘Dating’ – Reprise
Since Baselworld 2018, Rolex has subtly been revisiting its 36 mm Datejust models. The two stainless steel/white gold models revealed at Baselworld 2019 were the last of these, and Saad Chaudhry is pleased to now delve into the new and improved details of this popular modern wristwatch.
SJX Watches
Business News: Richemont Posts Strong Recovery; Watches Continue Decline
After a weak first half, Richemont’s business started its turnaround in the second half of the financial year, which ended in March 2021. From a 25% year-on-year revenue decline in the first half at constant exchange rates, the Swiss luxury group enjoyed a 36% rise in sales in the last quarter. As a result, revenue for the full year was down just 5% compared to the year before, to slightly over €13 billion. The healthy numbers and positive outlook helped send Richemont shares past 100 Swiss francs during trading, a five-year high. Divergent fates Beneath the strong recovery in the group’s numbers lay a recurring theme: a disparity in performance between regions, channels, and divisions. This echoes that of its rivals and the broader luxury-good industry – characterised by a strong recovery in Asia, moderate recovery in the United States, and continued weakness in Europe. And within the group, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels are powering ahead, leaving most of its watchmakers lagging. Continuing a trend that began in the third quarter, sales in Asia Pacific – all Asian countries except Japan – rose by a staggering 106% in the final quarter, boosting revenue in the region by 22% for the year. Asia Pacific sales are now the largest proportion of Richemont’s revenue at 45% of the total, compared to the historical one-third share. The performance was driven by strong sales in China, both in Richemont’s physical stores and its online mall on Alibaba’s Tmall Lu...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The 10 Best Skeleton Watches You Can Buy Right Now (That Don’t Suck!)
I know I’m not the only one who looked at a skeleton watch in the early days because I thought they were cool. But honestly what actually attracted me to skeletonized dials back in the day? Are they actually cool or are they maybe misunderstood?
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying T, Special Revolution
Bold proclamation from the outset. If this watch had been launched during Watches & Wonders this year it would have been my pick of the fair. But let’s take a step back. In 2018, our friends at Revolution made a stellar limited-edition collaboration with Chopard L.U.C: the L.U.C 1860 x The Rake x Revolution. The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying T, Special Revolution appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Aussie presale, an emo Antiques Roadshow and the best Patek Philippe models of 2021
This week at Time+Tide has been pretty diverse when I look back. We considered the latest Bulgari collaboration with Steve Aoki, the price of Picasso’s these days and the state of domestic Cambodian politics. We also received word that the very first pieces of the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 collection are hitting Australian shores soon … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Aussie presale, an emo Antiques Roadshow and the best Patek Philippe models of 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Watchscape&Review;: Breguet Double Tourbillon Ref. 5345 – is it twice as spectacular?
The new Breguet Double Tourbillon Ref. 5345, just arrived at our shores. We got a close look at this marvel, and give you this Review with Watchscapes.
Time+Tide
Is this the only truly democratic sales process? Get on board for the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:TOKI
If you have followed my coverage here on Time+Tide, you’ll be well aware I am a huge fan of Kurono watches. The brand has cultivated a cult following, with buyers such as myself racing to secure one of their creations each release. Unfortunately past runs have been scarce at times, with references introduced in limited … ContinuedThe post Is this the only truly democratic sales process? Get on board for the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:TOKI appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What were the best (non-Nautilus) Patek Philippe releases of 2021? We asked Patek expert John Reardon
Patek Philippe have been in the headlines a lot already this year. Firstly for the announcement that the Nautilus ref. 5711 was to be discontinued, and again when the collector community was shocked at proposed changes to the Archival Extracts program. All this before they even released a new watch. When they did release their … ContinuedThe post What were the best (non-Nautilus) Patek Philippe releases of 2021? We asked Patek expert John Reardon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Legends of Time: What Makes it Christie’s ‘Auction of the Decade’
A look at the exquisite timepieces on sale that make Christie’s upcoming auction in Hong Kong one of the most anticipated in recent years.
Quill & Pad
For The Love Of Two-Tone Watches – Reprise
A discussion with fellow collectors that is bound to elicit interesting responses is two-tone watches. People tend to either love them or hate them. The lovers consider them the perfect mix between a sporty looking watch and a dress watch. People who don't care for them may think of them as a weak compromise at best. What do you think?
Quill & Pad
Laws In The World Of Wine And Spirits: The Good, The Bad, And The Idiotic
As with every aspect of our lives, the world of wine and spirits is heavily regulated. Growing grapes, making the stuff, distilling, selling, even (perhaps especially) drinking it. Here Ken Gargett takes a light-hearted look at some of the newer and crazier laws and regulations around the world.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGE251 is a tough GMT with a luxurious twinkle of rose gold
Suave elegance with muscle and a touch of rose gold – the Grand Seiko SBGE251 is bold at 44mm, but sits softly on even a small wrist while radiating bags of presence. As a superb alternative to a GMT-Master II, the classic combination of rose gold and black turns up the style considerably if you’re … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGE251 is a tough GMT with a luxurious twinkle of rose gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A Look Inside Rolex World Service and the Restoration Atelier
Synonymous with durability and consistency, Rolex is most famous for the water-resistant Oyster watch case. But as important are its movements engineered to optimise timekeeping and functionality, exemplified by innovations like Chronergy and LIGA chronograph wheels. At the same time, Rolex watches are built for longevity, with the brand guaranteeing the availability of parts and labour for every model for at least 35 years after its discontinuation. Crucial in ensuring that the parts and labour are applied correctly is Rolex World Service, the brand’s after-sales division. The typically secretive Swiss watchmaking giant recently peeled back the covers on Rolex World Service, allowing a peek into its processes with information and a series of photos. Rolex World Service Rolex World Service encompasses the brand’s global after-sales service network, which is primarily made up of Rolex subsidiaries but occasionally run by third-party distributors in certain markets. All service centres are meant to offer a uniformly standard of service, regardless of ownership. A variety of servicing options are on offer at Rolex – all relatively affordable – with the most common being the full service detailed below. As the name implies, a full service is comprehensive, including polishing and replacements of parts. It is catered for the average consumer who wants a watch looking fresh and new, rather than the enthusiast or collector who prefers originality. A full service start...
Time+Tide
Three men apprehended for robbery of a Richard Mille RM 11-03 in Beverly Hills
Back in March, we covered the story of a horrific watch theft in Beverly Hills California where a Richard Mille robbery occurred leaving an undisclosed women wounded by a firearm. Shay Belhassen was targeted for his RM-11-03 Flyback Chronograph in rose gold, a watch worth $500,000, while dining with a female companion at celebrity hotspot … ContinuedThe post Three men apprehended for robbery of a Richard Mille RM 11-03 in Beverly Hills appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Did you catch the surprising Omega that Justin Hartley wore to the MTV Movie & TV Awards?
Nope, it’s not another Speedmaster. At the MTV Movie & TV Awards this weekend, Justin Hartley best known for his work on the hit show This is Us (as well as playing Oliver Queen / The Green Arrow in Clark Kent / Superman origin series Smallville), presented the award for best action hero with co-star … ContinuedThe post Did you catch the surprising Omega that Justin Hartley wore to the MTV Movie & TV Awards? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum
Very much the fashion of today, sports watches with integrated bracelets have proliferated rapidly at every level of the price spectrum. At the more accessible end is the Bell & Ross BR 05 launched two years ago and now available in three formats: time-only, chronograph, and skeleton. Continuing a glow-in-the-dark theme established by several recent models, Bell & Ross (B&R;) now unveils the BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum. Legible in the dark Initial thoughts Though the BR 05 was contentious because of its design, I’m a fan. The square case – with perfectly aligned bezel screws – evoke B&R;’s signature watches like the BR 01 and BR 03, making the BR 05 instantly recognisable. And it is executed well, with strong finishing on the case and bracelet considering the price. The most striking BR 05 model is arguably the skeleton variant, and that remains true with the BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum. Revealing most of the movement, including key bits such as the balance wheel and mainspring, the skeleton is a good looker. The BR 05 Skeleton Nightlum to be more attractive than its predecessors, including last year’s iteration in blue. It has a tactical feel thanks to the all-black movement, bringing to mind the recent BR 03 Diver Military and feels true to the brand’s history of watches for military and police personnel. Notably, the new Skeleton Nightlum has a clear dial, in contrast to the blue-tinted dial found on last year’s Skeleton Blue. The clear finish gives the Sk...
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The 2021 IWC Big Pilot in 43mm IW329301
The watch is priced at CHF8,900 compared to the 46mm at CHF13,900. It has a base movement versus the 52110 Calibre which has an additional 100 hours in power reserve. The watch is positioned as a more wearable option to the larger Big Pilot that also comes with a more affordable price tag.
SJX Watches
Massena Lab Launches Ming 17.09 Collaboration
Shortly after launching the last of the 17-series, at least under its own label, Ming is rolling out a tie up with Massena Lab – the 17.09 Ming X Massena Lab Limited Edition. Having got its start by collaborating with brands like Habring2 before introducing its eponymous brand, Massena Lab puts its own twist on the 17.09 with a honeycomb dial in either honey or black, which will be limited to 50 and 150 pieces respectively. The 17.09 Ming X Massena Lab in black Initial thoughts I loved the 17.09, so much, in fact that I placed an order for one. It’s a well-executed watch at an extremely appealing price point. Likewise, I find the 17.09 Massena Lab attractive. The two models retain the best aspects of the 17.09, such as the floating minute track, skeletonised hands, as well as Ming’s signature flared lugs. But the 17.09 Massena Lab adds a bit more intricacy to the design. When the 17.09 was announced last month, I wrote “the clous de Paris guilloché in the center is less unique than the spiral motif found on the dials of the 17.06″. The dial and its “floating” numerals By doing away with the clous de Paris in favour of honeycomb, the Massena Lab editions become eminently more striking than the standard versions. Between the two, my pick would be the honey dial – the black dial comes a tad too close to triggering my trypophobia. Priced at US$2,595 in black (and US$200 more in honey), the collaborative 17.09s are 20-30% more expensive than the standard...
Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Chronomètre Royal: Flamboyance, Precision, And The “Batman”
Alexandre Ghotbi takes a rather in-depth look at the more than 100-year history behind the high-precision Vacheron Constantin Chronomètre Royal . . . which came up because of a conversation about "the Batman." Find out what that means right here.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Events in Sydney, Perth and going hands-on with a funky new ’70s Tissot
It was the week of events for Time+Tide, even if they were nearly 4000 kilometres apart. Andrew changed timezones flying to Perth for the second Time+Tide Club event of the year so far, spotting a few very nice watches on the wrists of our Western Australian club members. At the same time, I was in … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Events in Sydney, Perth and going hands-on with a funky new ’70s Tissot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: Why I traded a Patek Philippe and a panda dial Omega Speedmaster for a Rolex Submariner
Editor’s note: Sitting in the Time+Tide office, the wrists of certain staff members at times resemble a veritable revolving door of watches. Their passion for new watches leads them to constantly haggle and trade, navigating all manner of financial contortions to acquire the next watch on their hit-list. At times, this can look slightly exhausting … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Why I traded a Patek Philippe and a panda dial Omega Speedmaster for a Rolex Submariner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Innovations And Complications In Horology: A. Lange & Söhne Connoisseur Conversations From Watches And Wonders 2021 (Video)
Innovations and complications are what makes A. Lange & Söhne watches tick. Here, Anthony de Haas, head of product development at A. Lange & Söhne, discusses pushing limits and taking watchmaking to the next level with journalist Gisbert Brunner and SJX, founder of Watches by SJX, in a conversation presented by Dr. Carl Naughton.
Time+Tide
#Kixntix: A limited edition IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 from Mr Porter meets Puma’s street-tough suede
Having buttressed their online fashion offering with an impressive collection of fine watches, Mr Porter has become a real force to be reckoned with over the last decade. To celebrate their 10th birthday, they’ve collaborated with IWC on a damn tempting version of their Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41, a piece that delivers superb legibility at … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: A limited edition IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 from Mr Porter meets Puma’s street-tough suede appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Review: Timeless HMS
We take a look at one of the newest kids on the block today: Timeless HMS 001. Will it stand the test of time, as the name suggests?
Time+Tide
The TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition is the teal deal
Green. We all know it’s become the colour of the year, dominating the novelties across brands at Watches & Wonders last month. If 2020 was a sea of blue dials, it is now looking like a field of green. But with TAG Heuer’s latest release they have strategically presented a new novelty that offers consumers … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition is the teal deal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Sport in Rose Gold
Introduced just earlier this year, the Chronomaster Sport is the first regular-production model equipped with the El Primero 3600, the latest iteration of Zenith’s storied chronograph movement. Having debuted the line with versions in steel, Zenith now unveils the rose gold Chronomaster Sport, adding a touch of luxe to the sports chronograph. Initial thoughts While not the most novel, the new Chronomaster Sport is a sensible addition to the line. Flagship sports chronographs – Daytona, Speedmaster, Big Bang et al – are offered in solid gold, so it makes sense that Zenith would take the same approach with the Chronomaster Sport. I’ve handled the watch in the metal, and it is eminently striking in gold and black. Admittedly, it does have a passing resemblance to the Daytona in the same livery, but I would say that the Chronomaster Sport more than holds its own, especially considering its movement. The dial is recognisably Zenith with its signature tri-colour registers, as well as the date at 4:30. More crucial is the inscription on the bezel that hints at the movement within. The calibre has a 1/10th second resolution for the chronograph, surpassing most chronographs in its price segment. Funnily enough, one of my favourite aspects of the watch is actually the gold flange with the minute track that circles the white dial – the colour pops and works wonderfully against the precious metal case. Priced at US$21,300, the rose gold Chronomaster Sport is substantially m...
Quill & Pad
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL: A Masterclass In Flexures And Material Science
The main focus of the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL is the technology behind the shock absorber, so the watch itself is a simple, three-hand, time-only piece with an ultra-clean dial and generally restrained aesthetic minimizing unnecessary distraction. Joshua Munchow dives in to take a closer look at the progressive compliant technology.