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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Undefeated Moser in a subway speakeasy and mastering chronographs with Zenith Time+Tide
Zenith We’ve had Jun 17, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Undefeated Moser in a subway speakeasy and mastering chronographs with Zenith

We’ve had an action-packed week, but there were two highlights in particular. Ricardo swung by La Noxe in NYC for the unveiling of the Undefeated x Moser Streamliner collaboration, and the only thing as interesting as the watch was the space he got to see it. To anyone on the street, Ricardo was just heading … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Undefeated Moser in a subway speakeasy and mastering chronographs with Zenith appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: What’s not to Louvre with Vacheron Constantin Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin I know I cannot May 27, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: What’s not to Louvre with Vacheron Constantin

I know I cannot complain, considering I was just in London visiting arguably the world’s greatest watch collection, but watching Andrew from the sidelines this past week has given me serious FOMO. Vacheron Constantin, within their Métiers d’Art range, does not only represent the pinnacle of the manufacture’s capabilities, but also the pinnacle of craftsmanship … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: What’s not to Louvre with Vacheron Constantin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the Presage Day-Date in Green Urushi SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces May 26, 2022

Seiko Introduces the Presage Day-Date in Green Urushi

A proponent of Japanese artisanal crafts, Seiko has just taken the covers off the latest watch decorated with traditional Japanese lacquer, the Presage Craftsmanship Series Urushi Dial Limited Edition ref. SPB295J1. Though both the craft and complications aren’t novel, the SPB295J1 is unusual for its triple retrograde display in a symmetrical layout, which is combined with a dial in dark olive urushi with and gold-powder details. Initial thoughts Like the recent pair of time-only watches with porcelain dials, the SPB295 is one of the more elegant watches in the Presage Craftsmanship line. I like the look of the SPB295 – the symmetry and uniformity make it more appealing than the standard Presage day-date watches that rely on a mix of fan-shaped and round sub-dials for the indicators. Adding to the appeal of the balanced dial layout is the colour. While green is a faddish colour now, it is executed with subtle style here; it’s an understated, dark hue that Seiko accurately describes as evoking a moss garden. And the sprinkle of gold is a nice touch – and a typical feature of traditional Japanese lacquerware – without which the dial the dial might have looked plain. My only gripe is the unusually small “31” at the end of the date scale, as well as the fact that the date numerals are four days apart, making it difficult to read the dates in between. Beyond the colour, the watch stands out for the dial layout. Unlike most Seiko Presage day-date watches, the S...

IN-DEPTH: The Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Automatic collection upgrades one of the best-priced field watches around Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Automatic Apr 12, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Automatic collection upgrades one of the best-priced field watches around

Even if you’ve only been into watches for a short amount of time, the chances are pretty high that you’ve heard about the Hamilton Khaki Field. With 100 years experience of making watches for the military, Hamilton certainly know how to make an attractive, capable field watch that can handle everything from survival situations to … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Automatic collection upgrades one of the best-priced field watches around appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation with elegance Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation Apr 9, 2022

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation with elegance

You’d be forgiven if you thought that Jaeger-LeCoultre was only about their stellar movements, or the case-flipping Reverso watch. True, the Reverso is an icon of design, and their movements are so renowned that they’ve powered countless other brands’ finest timepieces, but there’s much more to JLC. So much more. For instance, one of the … ContinuedThe post The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation with elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHES & WONDERS: Hublot hit a purple patch and release a brand new case shape Time+Tide
Hublot hit Mar 30, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS: Hublot hit a purple patch and release a brand new case shape

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders means a bombardment of fresh releases, so we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the week for deeper coverage, some of which will include live pics and our hands-on perspective. But for … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: Hublot hit a purple patch and release a brand new case shape appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: The Patek Philippe Ref. 3940J – A Classical Beauty Revisited Deployant
Patek Philippe Ref 3940J – Mar 14, 2022

Review: The Patek Philippe Ref. 3940J – A Classical Beauty Revisited

The histories of Patek Philippe and the perpetual calendar wristwatch are richly intertwined. Not only was the prestigious Genevan watch manufacturer the first to create the perpetual calendar wristwatch, it has since gone on to produce specimens that served and continue to serve as the industry standard. The prototypical Patek Philippe perpetual calendar wristwatch isRead More

“Instead of $90,000, the Daytona now cost almost a million. I still bought it” – The crazy life of super-collector Eric Ku Time+Tide
Mar 7, 2022

“Instead of $90,000, the Daytona now cost almost a million. I still bought it” – The crazy life of super-collector Eric Ku

Outside the weather was freezing with temperatures down to minus 10°C. But in the driver’s seat of the hire car skittering over the icy roads, Eric Ku was sweating.  At stake was a huge opportunity that could kick-start his career as a watch dealer. But only if he made it in time. It was 2002, … ContinuedThe post “Instead of $90,000, the Daytona now cost almost a million. I still bought it” – The crazy life of super-collector Eric Ku appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: new- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin 16202ST Deployant
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Feb 19, 2022

Review: new- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin 16202ST

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin is possibly the grail watch for many stainless steel sports watch collectors. In terms of execution, nothing has changed, and if any, it has only gotten better. The new in-house movement is potentially a significant improvement for stability, performance and accuracy. That said, the discontinuation of the older 15202ST with the caliber 2121 has only made the older model much more collectible. The watch retails at USD$33,200, but is hard if not impossible to find at MSRP.

In-Depth: An Engineer’s Technical and Personal Perspectives on Quartz Timekeeping SJX Watches
Cartier Santos Dumont Feb 14, 2022

In-Depth: An Engineer’s Technical and Personal Perspectives on Quartz Timekeeping

For an uncompromising mechanical watch enthusiast, one of the most dreaded words in the specifications of a watch is surely “quartz”. Oftentimes that dread is followed by the thought, if only it was mechanical… I must admit this went through my mind when I discovered the lovely Cartier Santos Dumont in 2019. And that was despite Cartier’s best efforts in communicating that the movement inside was a long-autonomy quartz calibre with a six-year battery life. The Cartier Santos Dumont trio, with only the XL variant (extreme left) being mechanical In the time since, I began to ponder the question: why do I seek the latest electronic gadgets, but am dismissive towards quartz watches? Just because quartz movements are often cheap and easily available, does that leave them uniformly uninteresting? The Quartz Crisis On Monday, December 29, 1969, tucked somewhere in the The New York Times was an eight-line paragraph that ended with “[the] world’s first electronic wrist watch with a crystal oscillator.” That electronic watch, as you may have guessed, was the Seiko Quartz-Astron. It was barely obvious at the time, but the announcement, innocuous as it was, would be the harbinger of a crisis for Swiss watchmaking. The father of all quartz watches, the Seiko Quartz-Astron 35SQ in 18K yellow gold The Quartz-Astron cost as much as a Toyota Corolla at the time of of its release – its price was equivalent to about US$1,200 – and was without a doubt a luxury product. Ov...

Norqain Introduces the Kenissi-Powered Neverest GMT SJX Watches
Norqain Introduces Feb 12, 2022

Norqain Introduces the Kenissi-Powered Neverest GMT

A young brand established only in 2018 – but backed by noted industry figures – Norqain is best known for sports watches equipped with high-quality movements produced by Kenissi, the manufacture owned by Tudor and Chanel. At the higher end of the brand’s offerings is a dual-time watch with a ceramic bezel insert and patterned dial that was introduced just last year in steel. Now it gets a luxe facelift, resulting in the Adventure Neverest GMT 41mm Steel & Gold. Available either with rubber strap or steel bracelet Initial thoughts The all-steel Neverest GMT a straightforward, agreeable proposition: practical functions backed by a solid movement, while boasting a fairly elaborate case and dial. Yet such features aren’t enough in today’s market since extras like a ceramic bezel are almost the norm. Despite its strong execution in terms of fit and finish, the original Neverest GMT lacked a punchy aesthetic, with its styling seeming a bit derivative. That’s changed with the two-tone model. The addition of a modest quantity of pink gold gives the watch a more upscale feel, especially complemented by the glossy ceramic bezel, resulting in a look more comparable with its competition in the same price range. Two-tone here means the addition of gold details, rather than an excessive use of the precious metal The gold details, however, mean the watch is about 40% pricier than its steel counterpart. At US$5,290 on a strap and more on a bracelet, the two-tone Neverest GMT ...

HYT Returns with the Hastroid SJX Watches
Montblanc Mr Cerrato has applied Feb 1, 2022

HYT Returns with the Hastroid

Having been the first – and still the only – watchmaker to use liquid to display the time, HYT went bust last year, having struggled for several years after its 2012 debut. But now the brand is making a comeback with Davide Cerrato at the helm. The inaugural watch of the reborn HYT is the Hastroid Green Nebula that is dressed in brand’s familiar livery of lime green and black. Best known for being the design chief at first Tudor and then Montblanc, Mr Cerrato has applied his brand of Italian aesthetics to HYT, preserving its signature style while streamlining and downsizing the watches. Still large, but slightly thinner and definitely sleeker, the Hastroid continues the familiar formula found on most previous HYT watches – hours are indicated by a retrograde fluid indicator within a glass tube, while two large bellows are responsible for pumping the fluid indicator back and forth. Initial thoughts I was sceptical when I first heard that HYT was back from the dead, but knowing that Mr Cerrato is leading the charge certainly increases the odds of success. He did a stellar job shaping the visual identities of both Tudor and Montblanc – both of which still have the same house style today – and has certainly refined the HYT wristwatch while retaining its familiar feel. The Having seen a resin mockup of the Hastroid, I can attest to the fact that the watch is more compact and slightly more wearable than a first-generation HYT. At the same time, Mr Cerrato has given...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New watches and a new Time+Tide team member Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Zenith Jan 14, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New watches and a new Time+Tide team member

Well, 2022 is certainly not wasting any time when it comes to new announcements. Already Grand Seiko, Zenith and TAG Heuer have launched fresh timepieces this week, and there is only more to come with LVMH Watch Week rapidly approaching. Grand Seiko dropped the mic, launching a second White Birch inspired watch: the Grand Seiko … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New watches and a new Time+Tide team member appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Bar Limited Edition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Dec 20, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Bar Limited Edition

Seiko (and Grand Seiko) lead the watch world in drawing inspiration from nature, especially for their dials.  Seasons, textures, materials and surfaces, drawn together with colours, translucency and reflectivity.  Many are not only visually clear in their story, but Seiko also wraps words around each creation taking us on a journey to a location, perhaps … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Star Bar Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Available in the Shop: Flip it and Reverse it, two takes on the iconic Reverso Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoultre s Reverso has been Dec 15, 2021

Available in the Shop: Flip it and Reverse it, two takes on the iconic Reverso

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso has been an icon for 90 years. Not only does this masterfully distinctive watch have an uncommon shape, it’s also got its signature move - the reversing case. While this watch these days is most commonly seen as something dressy, the Reverso has sporty roots and, as these two examples from WatchFinder & Co demonstrate, can project vastly different moods.

Review: new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Steel Deployant
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Steel Nov 27, 2021

Review: new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Steel

Parmigiani's offering is well designed and executed and provides a subtle alternative to the crowded steel bracelet watch category. The thinness of the watch and the utility of a simple time only haute horologerie bracelet watch makes for a highly versatile stealth wealth timepiece. This segment popularized by the two-handed ultra thin models of Genta lineage has seen a resurgence in the past few years. Considering how unattainable these pieces have become of late, consumers have turned to alternatives.

EDITOR’S NOTE: Reflecting on happier times, when you could go on a waiting list for a 5711, and actually get “the call” Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/014 would set Nov 2, 2021

EDITOR’S NOTE: Reflecting on happier times, when you could go on a waiting list for a 5711, and actually get “the call”

Editor’s note: If you can get one at retail the green dial Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/014 would set you back $34,893 USD. But that’s one extremely big “if”. Consequently, people are willing to pay crazy prizes for what is still a watch that only came out this year. Recently, for example, a Nautilus 5711/014  sold on … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S NOTE: Reflecting on happier times, when you could go on a waiting list for a 5711, and actually get “the call” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Tissot T-Touch Connect Solar is an everyday smartwatch for any collector Time+Tide
Tissot T-Touch Connect Solar Oct 27, 2021

VIDEO: The Tissot T-Touch Connect Solar is an everyday smartwatch for any collector

A mechanical watch tends to be the only target for those of us in love with horology. Yet everyone would have to admit there are times when you need a bit more from what’s strapped on your wrist. It’s these moments where a smartwatch elevates itself and becomes the best option out there. With multiple … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Tissot T-Touch Connect Solar is an everyday smartwatch for any collector appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem: A Striking Reminder To Make Every Precious Moment Count Quill & Pad
Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Oct 25, 2021

Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem: A Striking Reminder To Make Every Precious Moment Count

One of Martin Green's favorite watches of 2021 is the Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem. At rest, the time is not visible on this watch. However, after pushing a snake-shaped button the entire dial comes to life as a rattlesnake begins to move and the skull begins to laugh at you. And finally you can see the time (but only if you need to).