Hodinkee
Introducing: The Citizen Promaster Aqualand 40th Anniversary Limited Edition
A classic post-quartz Japanese two-tone tool diver turns the big 4-0.
Results for The 2017-2022 Vintage Market Boom
42,897 articles · 272 videos found · page 323 of 1439
Hodinkee
Monochrome
First Look - The Return of Urban Jürgensen, and the New UJ-1 Tourbillon, UJ-2 Time-Only and UJ-3 Perpetual
A couple of days ago, we published a long, in-depth article on the history of one of the most important watchmaking dynasties, Urban Jürgensen. There were more reasons for this article than just celebrating this historic name, which was founded in 1773. This article was here to prepare the grounds for what is happening today, […]
SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen Introduces the UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar
Urban Jürgensen closes its newly launched model lineup with a surprising creation, the UJ-3 . An integrated perpetual calendar that elegantly builds on the base of time-only UJ-2, the UJ-3 is equipped with a calendar module developed in collaboration with independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler. The UJ-3 is the third and final watch in Urban Jürgensen’s relaunch lineup, which was among this year’s most unexpected (but welcome) surprises. Initial thoughts The introduction of a perpetual calendar along with the two other models is an impressive move by the team at Urban Jürgensen. Brands typically debut with a single model; Urban Jürgensen has managed three all-new watches. The fact that in addition to a tourbillon (and a special one at that) of the UJ-1, Urban Jürgensen managed to develop a complex perpetual calendar is nothing short of remarkable. Moreover, the perpetual calendar of the UJ-3 integrated with the movement, and not merely added as a module. Urban Jürgensen is being transparent in revealing the UJ-3 is a collaboration between Voutilainen and watchmaker-engineer Andreas Strehler. This openness is important, especially for independent watchmakers. The acknowledgement also adds pedigree to the piece given Mr Strehler’s good reputation. Personally, I find the UJ-3 more cohesive in design compared to the UJ-2. The calendar indications better fill the dial space, and the hands are no longer too small for the face. Also, the dial appearance evokes the p...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Urban Jürgensen Has Returned - Under The Direction Of Kari Voutilainen And Alex Rosenfield - With Three Extraordinary New Models
The historically minded collection looks further back in the brand's heritage for design inspiration, featuring a new yet familiar aesthetic combined with world-class watchmaking.
SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen Debuts the UJ-2 Time-Only
Urban Jürgensen’s entry-level model is now the time-only UJ-2. The brand’s new design language includes nods to the past without being repetitive. Compared to the limited-edition UJ-1 tourbillon, the UJ-2 is a simpler and (relatively) more accessible watch, with a calibre inside that can serve as a base for complications in the future. Initial thoughts The UJ-2 shows no obvious direct influence from past watches and marks the beginning of Urban Jürgensen’s new approach. The styling is reminiscent of Breguet’s work, but the fine details are traceable to Jürgensen’s own creations. Inside, a new movement bears Voutilainen’s unmistakable touch. The gilded, grained caliber appears plain at first glance, but it is of high quality and strikingly original in many respects. Among the four versions of the UJ-2, one in particular catches the eye. The rose-gold model in particular, with its bright silvered dial recalls George Daniels’s Millennium series, thanks to the off-center dial and gold dial rings. The small seconds sub dial is rather large, with its diameter almost spanning the watch face diameter. Along with its lopsided placement, it makes for an interesting sight. The dial as a whole looks classical, but with a slight minimalist touch - same as in the UJ-1. The movement inside looks to be the base for models to come. In a growing trend of using new materials, longer power reserves and high frequencies, the UJ-1 caliber remains quintessentially traditional,...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Citizen Revives Its Funky Depth-Sensing Diver for the Aqualand’s 40th
It’s hard not to smile when a brand pulls something straight out of the archives and actually gets it right. The original Citizen Aqualand that dropped in '85 was a geeky, glorious collision of analog dive chops and digital gadgetry. You didn’t need to love diving to want one; you just needed to be the kind of person who liked pushing buttons to see what they did. I was that person. Still am.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Accutron Revives The First Fully Electric Wristwatch With The New Spaceview 314
The brand has put modern higher-end finishing into reviving an iconic model.
Worn & Wound
Citizen Celebrates 40 Years of the Aqualand, One of the Most Unique Dive Watches Ever Made
There are lots of dive watches out there – it’s perhaps the most ubiquitous of all the watch genres. Frankly, it’s easy to see why. In addition to being highly specialized for a very specific task, they tend to work incredibly well as casual, everyday watches regardless of what you happen to be doing with them. The reason for this is very much because of the design traits these watches share that make them so highly specialized: ultra clear legibility, robust water proof cases, and a generally nondescript design that allows the watch to be worn easily with a wetsuit and also blend into the fabric of our everyday lives. But then there are a handful of truly unusual dive watches that give away their specialized nature even at a passing glance. They look less like watches and more like obscure devices or instruments that should only be used by people who really know what they’re doing, have received the necessary training, and perhaps have signed a liability waiver. The Omega Ploprof immediately comes to mind, as does something like the Singer Divetrack – these are watches that play with the form of what we understand a watch to be in the name of functionality. Citizen, for 40 years, has also made a watch that fits neatly into this category: the Aqualand. The name is a bit of an oxymoron, but the watch itself is less confusing. It has always been a uniquely specialized instrument tailored to the specific needs of divers. This year marks the 40th anniversary of t...
Fratello
The Best Thus Far? Meet The Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss
The Swatch press release for this watch says it’s “inspired by the unexplored.” The deep green new Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss with touches of black (bezel) and beige (markers, hands, bezel numerals, etc.) takes inspiration from the ocean’s depths. Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss This is the ninth Blancpain […] Visit The Best Thus Far? Meet The Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The De Bethune Mystery Box: Forget Time, created by Fiona Krüger & Denis Flageollet
The “Mystery Box: Forget Time” results from the collaboration between Fiona Krüger and master watchmaker Denis Flageollet, founder of De Bethune. Known for her original approach to watch design, Fiona Krüger has built a reputation within the independent watchmaking world for her artistic yet technically demanding creations. Her past work, like the Skull and Chaos […]
Fratello
Traveling In Style - Hands-On With The New Héron Mirabel GMT
Have you ever noticed that most GMT watches are quite sporty? That’s great for many people, but what if you travel for work or simply have a more formal style? Well, Canadian microbrand Héron has got your back! I would like to introduce you to the Héron Mirabel GMT, a dressy travel watch - or, […] Visit Traveling In Style - Hands-On With The New Héron Mirabel GMT to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The New Seiko Presage Classic Series Unglazed Arita Porcelain SPB497
Seiko has shown great skill and creativity when it comes to its watches, mostly in the art of dial making. Ranging from simple to complex, there’s always an interesting story surrounding the inspiration and the creation of its dials. Whether it be a texture of Edo silk, or the shift in colour in the waters […]
Time+Tide
The new Citizen Promaster Aqualand celebrates 40 years of the first diver with an electronic depth sensor
A proper tool watch celebrates its 40th anniversary.The post The new Citizen Promaster Aqualand celebrates 40 years of the first diver with an electronic depth sensor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver
In 1985, Citizen revolutionized the world of dive watches by introducing the Aqualand. Among the standout features of this then-state-of-the-art dive tool were the multifunctional digital display and built-in electronic depth gauge. The latter gave the watch its distinct shape, with the depth sensor’s hardware element protruding from the left side of the case. The […] Visit Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Citizen Aqualand Promaster 40th Anniversary Limited Edition
In certain very specific situations, one’s life could very much depend on a watch, especially when it comes to environments humans are not good at surviving without support. And this is where tool watches can, literally, play a vital role. Plunging ourselves into the depths of the ocean, for instance, is a fine example of […]
Fratello
Introducing: The New Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Watches
I wrote a lengthy review on the stainless steel Type XX Chronographe 2067 late last year. You can find (and read) it here. If you want to skip to the conclusion, I ended that review with the following paragraph: “I hope Breguet will introduce more variations of the modern Type XX that are closer to […] Visit Introducing: The New Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Watches to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Breguet’s Latest Type XX is Vintage Inspired and No-Date
Following the Classique Souscription, and Tradition Seconde Rétrograde, Breguet continues its 250th anniversary roll-out by turning to its signature pilot’s watch. The Type XX Chronographe 2075BH debuts in two variants in “Breguet gold”: a regular production with a black aluminium dial and a 250-piece limited edition with a sterling silver dial. Both are handsome and stay mostly true to the model’s heritage thanks to faithful sizing and a manually-wound movement. The regular production with a black aluminium dial (left), and sterling silver dial of the limited edition Initial Thoughts The new Type XX ticks many of the boxes from an enthusiast’s perspective with its compact dial and concise dial that does without a date and hour totalizer – both welcome reductions to the first-generation design. That said, the Breguet gold case is limiting due to the price. A stainless steel case would’ve been even more appreciated, though that will probably arrive in due time. While the cal. 7278/7279 in the new Type XX is technically excellent – like most Breguet calibres – the thoroughly modern construction doesn’t complement the vintage-inspired design. Adapting the cal. 582 used in the 1990s Type XX might have been more interesting due to its lateral clutch construction and increasingly rare cam-control system, though the cal. 7278/7279 reads better on a spec sheet with its vertical clutch. And to preserve the vintage feel, a solid, hand-engraved case back might...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Compact, Hand-Wound Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075 for the 250th Anniversary
As we’ve explained already, Breguet, one of the most important brands in the industry, is celebrating this year its 250th anniversary, as its founder, the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet, first registered his company in 1775. With this in mind, we can tell you that Breguet has already released several special edition watches, all done in its […]
Time+Tide
The new 38mm, no date Breguet Type XX Chronographs are a purist collector’s dream
Breguet continues its 250th anniversary celebrations in style...The post The new 38mm, no date Breguet Type XX Chronographs are a purist collector’s dream appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Stowa Updates the Antea Classic KS
Bauhaus design, though never really leaving the spotlight, is certainly in a bit of a renaissance these days, with its focus on stylistic simplicity and function appealing to contemporary audiences just as successfully as it did during its heyday a full century ago. German watchmaker Stowa, however, is taking the history and legacy of the style in a more defined direction, with their latest Antea Classic KS in rose gold and anthracite. According to the brand, they’ve been making Bahaus-style watches in Germany since 1937, and argue that perhaps the State School of Design (the originator of Bauhaus, which existed from 1919 to 1933) was a more direct influence on watchmakers of the 1930s than previously thought. In celebration of that marriage of influential German design and horology, Stowa has been producing a modernized version of its first Bauhaus watch since 2004. The new Antea Classic KS references continue that tightly-wound history, with new touches to appeal to current trends in watchmaking and design. Since the original 1937 model wore a copper dial in a chrome-plated case, Stowa has reintroduced a version of that color combination with the new references. Both feature a highly-polished 35.5mm (44.6mm lug-to-lug) stainless steel case, which envelops the sunburst dial in either rose gold or anthracite. Temperature-blued steel hands sweep around the dial, pointing to thin and tall white Roman numerals with no indexes between each hour, giving the dial a very cl...
Hodinkee
Review: 'The Making Of A Status Symbol, A Business History of Rolex' Translated To English For The First Time
Pierre-Yves Donzé's business history of Rolex documents how the Swiss brand embraced the idea of individual success while making its watches the ultimate status symbol.
Time+Tide
Norqain bring the summer heat with the new Freedom 60 Chrono Enjoy Life
If you're in search of a relaxed watch to take you into summer and remind you to relax a bit more, we may have found the perfect one for you.The post Norqain bring the summer heat with the new Freedom 60 Chrono Enjoy Life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
A Taste of the Infinite: Hands-On with the J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure
When Zach Kazan told me the other day that a couple of watches by J.N. Shapiro had arrived at the office, I did a double-take. Not privy to the conversations he had been having regarding an article in progress, finding out that two watches by this revered independent were in the office was an exciting surprise. Although I’ve come across perhaps two in the wild I can recall (one a sample of the Resurgence and the other a custom piece for a collector), they aren’t the type of watches that get sent around very often, being rare and high-end. It turned out, perhaps in an even more exciting turn of events, that these weren’t your ordinary, if such a thing exists, J.N. Shapiros; rather, they were samples of a new line called the Infinity Series Pure. A new duo of watches meant to open, or re-open, the brand to a broader audience of collectors. Though still highly limited in nature, these watches aren’t one-offs or custom pieces. Instead, they are serially produced, albeit in only 18 pieces per color, and feature in-house, engine-turned guilloché dials and handmade, finished precious metal hands. As such, although intended as a more accessible model, the term is relative, and the Infinity Series Pures are priced at $26,000, placing them in an interesting competitive space for independent brands. Back to the point of them being in the office, I couldn’t help but spend time with these watches. And, thus, also form some opinions on them. So, although my time was limited, ...
Hodinkee
Happenings: Keith Scobie-Youngs To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The Cumbria Clock Company Co-Founder will discuss Big Ben's recent restoration.
Quill & Pad
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Review: THE Near-Perfect Swiss Watch and it’s Relatively Affordable
Tissot was a brand that Raman Kalra knew about and he often saw their watches, but they never really sparked any interest. Then the PRX was released, and he started to take an interest and took the plunge. As an owner here are his impressions of the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure
J.N. Shapiro, one of the celebrated names in independent watchmaking, has earned a following for his masterful use of traditional guilloché and thoughtful, almost philosophical approach to design. Founded by former educator Josh Shapiro, the California-based brand gained recognition with the Infinity Series, showcasing the artisanal craft with Shapiro’s now-signature “Infinity Weave” guilloché pattern. The […]
Time+Tide
The Infinity Pure becomes J.N. Shapiro’s thinnest and most affordable watch
Engine-turned dials galore.The post The Infinity Pure becomes J.N. Shapiro’s thinnest and most affordable watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller?
The Rolex Land-Dweller was the most talked-about release of this year’s Watches and Wonders. Regardless of whether the watch appealed to everyone, due to the groundbreaking new caliber and revival of the Oysterquartz design, the general impact of the Land-Dweller was palpable. We had an opportunity to experience the 36mm and 40mm models during Watches […] Visit What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller? to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture, now with Light Blue MoP Dial
The tourbillon has long been one of the long list of complications developed internally by Frederique Constant, used as a stand-alone feature or even paired with a perpetual calendar. And, in classic style for the brand, often with a price that’s well below the industry average. A couple of years ago, in line with its […]
SJX Watches
The Entry-Level Ulysse Nardin Freak Gains a Grand Feu Enamel Dial
Ulysse Nardin gives its most affordable Freak a new look with a blue flinqué enamel dial and rose gold case. The brand has launched three other Freaks with enamel dials over the past two years, but all were small-run, retailer-exclusive limited editions. The Freak X Gold Enamel, on the other hand, is not retailer-specific and will be limited to 120 examples. The watch puts Ulysse Nardin’s investments in silicon fabrication and dial making to good use, and with good results. The combination of traditional métiers d’art with state-of-the-art technology also makes it more approachable to traditionalists than a typical Freak. Initial Thoughts Even as it nears 25 years on the market, Ulysse Nardin’s Freak remains avant-garde in aesthetics and technology. The Freak looks and feels like a small-batch concept watch, rather than the collection staple it’s become. It’s hard to believe you can walk into a retailer and walk out with something like this from a major Swiss brand for less than six figures. A rarely mentioned refinement is the use of clear sapphire jewels, rather than the typical reddish-purple rubies. It’s rare for brands to harmonize jewel colors with the rest of the watch, but it always results in a more cohesive look. Besides striking looks, its also a surprisingly practical watch, with a reasonably sized case, respectable lume, and 50 m water resistance. Overall, a well-rounded package, though the US$10,300 premium for the enamel dial over the regular ...