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Review: Galop d’Hermès
A man’s take at a very feminine watch - the new Galop d’Hermès. A brief discourse on the design and the feelings it evokes on a feminine wrist.
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Deployant
A man’s take at a very feminine watch - the new Galop d’Hermès. A brief discourse on the design and the feelings it evokes on a feminine wrist.
Deployant
The history of the TUDOR divers’ watch dates back to 1954 and the launch of reference 7922. The basic design with a bezel, triple link bracelet and screw-down crown laid down the aesthetic and technical foundations of an ideal divers’ watch.
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In the field of watch design there’s a lot to be said for restraint. Not every dial needs to be flashy, nor every case overwrought. Sometimes, all you need - all you want even - is a watch that looks good (no matter what), and can do anything, or at least anything most normal people … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The perfect gentleman – Tissot’s Gentleman Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Editor’s note: This year we’ve been a little guilty of gushing all over the brand spanking new Octo Finissimo Chronograph, but it’s worth remembering that this shiny new star isn’t the only Octo Chrono in the mix. Meet the definitely not thin Bulgari Octo Chronograph … One of the marks of a strong watch design … ContinuedThe post The big bad Bulgari Octo Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In 2014, Bell & Ross’ signature BR 01 design spawned a futuristic, ultra-graphic spin-off that would take the brand miles beyond the cockpit – the BR-X1. While the watch inherited the distinctive circle-within-a-square case modelled on aircraft instruments, from there the execution swerves radically away from the retro-military look of the original, with the BR-X1 taking on a greater complexity in both construction and style. Iterated into numerous variants in the five years since its launch – including a Renault Formula 1 edition and White Hawk – the BR-X1 is characterised by open-worked dial revealing a skeletonised chronograph module and a complex case made up of a combination of materials – here titanium and ceramic – with rocker-style pushers pivoted on one end. This year, Bell & Ross (B&R;) has unveiled one of the most striking iterations of the BR-X1 to date, the all-black Phantom. The BR-X1 Phantom Going dark Watches with black cases and dials are relatively common today, ironically thanks in part to one brand that resisted the genre so vehemently that it spawned an outlaw cult of aftermarket all-black watches. Even with the flood of black watches on the market, few have gone above and beyond in making everything on the watch black. The first truly all-black watch was the smash hit Hublot Big Bang of 2006, which was followed by hordes more. But the greatest irony of such watches is that the illegible colour palette results in an eminent...
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What do collectors really look for when they are already at the top of the watch game? Rarity? Provenance? Complexity? All are true for different collectors, with some placing value on the design of a timepiece, and others on condition. This variety is what keeps it interesting in the stratospheric peaks of the collecting world, … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: What do collectors really look for? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Despite being one of many recent startups specialising in stylish, affordable watches, Gorilla has managed to set itself apart from a crowded field by creating watches that are well designed and smartly detailed. That’s because the Gorilla was founded in 2016 by two veterans watch design: Lukas Gopp, an alumni of IWC and Audemars Piguet, and the better known of the pair, Octavio Garcia. Mr Garcia spent almost 15 years at Audemars Piguet, five of them as chief designer; one of his most famous and successful creations was the Royal Oak Offshore “Alinghi” in forged carbon, one of the hottest watches of the mid-2000s. Gorilla now only offers essentially a single model – the Fastback – in several variations, with the design and colours inspired by 1950s American muscle cars. And it is obvious that several of its watches are reminiscent of certain Audemars Piguet timepieces. But with the Gorilla watch case having a distinctive profile of its own, coupled with the fact that most of its watches cost less than US$800, Gorilla watches have an easy appeal. A gilded 15 This particular Gorilla is a limited edition made for the 15th anniversary of Red Army Watches, a Singapore-based retailer that specialises in affordable watches; amongst the other brands it carries are SevenFriday and Grand Seiko. Formally known as the RAW x Gorilla Fastback Celebratory Edition, the watch is not drastically different from the standard model that serves as the base, the Fastback Gal...
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The Swatch Group have published their 2019 Half-Year Report, revealing some interesting information. The group has reported an increase in their inventory levels, which include components, movements and watches, to a total of 7.1 billion Swiss francs (up 2.6 per cent from 2018). More broadly, the group, which owns brands such as Tissot, Longines and … ContinuedThe post BUSINESS NEWS: Why the Swatch Group has millions of watches sitting in warehouses appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Inspired by the vintage Minerva watches from the 1920s and 30s that were once used in the military, the 1858 collection pays tribute to the 160 years of the Minerva Manufacture and its extraordinary heritage. The new Montblanc 1858 timepieces uses design elements from historic models and redevelops them for the new ‘sports’ watch category, mountaineering.
SJX Watches
The story of the A. Lange & Söhne 25th anniversary set is now well known: slated for October launch, the set will comprise 10 different Lange 1 watches, all clad in the same blue and silver livery. One watch has been announced a month since the start of the year, and the latest addition is the Grand Lange 1 “25th Anniversary”. First introduced in 2003, the Grand Lange 1 was initially criticised for meddling with an iconic design. It has since matured well, helped by several redesigns as well as a movement conceived specifically for the watch. Grand Lange 1 25th Anniversary Bigger and better It’s the larger brother of the Lange 1, with a case diameter that’s 2.5mm larger; making it 41mm compared to 38.5mm for the classic Lange 1. But because the movement inside was designed to fit the watch, it scales up the design while adhering strictly to the proportions and geometry of the original Lange 1. The new movement was required to accommodate the signature, off-centre displays of the Lange 1, which sit on a neat grid. The cal. L095.1 is 34.1mm, compared to the 30.4mm of the first generation Lange 1 movement, the L901.0. An upside of the larger movement is the consolidation of the twin barrels of the smaller Lange 1 into a single, larger barrel, while still maintaining the 72-hour power reserve. That leads to a small but crucial difference on the dial of the Grand Lange 1: the lettering at seven o’clock reads “Gangreserve 72 Stunden”, German for ...
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Editor’s note: The Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Torpilleur is a very interesting watch - a mix of modern build and very, very classical design. It’s a winner. Story in a second The Marine Chronometer Torpilleur shows a new, focused and driven face of Ulysse Nardin. I’m going to start this review talking not about mechanical … ContinuedThe post Set sail for glory with the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Torpilleur appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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While orange might be the new black, another obvious trend in the contemporary watch market is the lean towards heritage styling. This has been a consistent motif across the industry for a number of years now, but 2018 was a year when the number of heritage watches almost eclipsed those with more contemporary design. In … ContinuedThe post Old is the new black, 8 of the best heritage watches of 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Like all good stories filled with plot and intrigue, this one involves acquiring a pressure testing machine, and the decision to design a dive watch with it. Just like that, the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept was born. In case you’re not familiar with Ming, they’re a relatively young brand that’s been making a lot of … ContinuedThe post Don’t stare into the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Launched two years ago with a steel case, the BR 03-92 Diver took the signature aviation inspired design of Bell & Ross (B&R;) into the sea. It was a proper dive watch that combined the iconic square case with a 300m depth rating and a rotating bezel. At Baselworld this year, B&R; unveiled two new iterations of the BR 03-92 Diver, with cases in bronze and matte black ceramic respectively. Though fundamentally identical, each is drastically different from the other in look and feel. The road to the deep But first a quick recap of B&R;’s past dive watches. Though the brand is today best known for its military aviation watches, B&R; got its start making watches (which were essentially rebadged Sinn timepieces) for professionals in various spheres, from bomb disposal engineers to deep sea divers. One of its earliest dive watches was the Hydromax (also known as the Hydro Challenger) of 1997. It was a compact, round watch with a quartz movement boasting a ludicrous depth rating of 11,100m, thanks to a case filled with transparent fluorinated oil that was incompressible. A decade later, the brand was producing its own watches and unveiled the BR 02, a tonneau-shaped dive watch with a 1000m depth rating, internal rotating bezel and helium escape valve. Then came the BR 03-92 in 2017, the most logical expression of a dive watch for a brand driven largely by military-inspired design. Crucially, bona fide square watch cases are inherently more difficult to seal against ...
WatchAdvice
Everyday divers’ watch from Rolex The Submariner is a quintessential divers watch produced by Rolex. The Submariner model represents a historic turning point in diving watches. When the Submariner was released in 1953, it was the first divers watch that had a waterproofness to 100 metres. This combined with the breakthrough Rolex had with its revolutionary Oyster bracelet design in 1926 represented the two significant turning points in the diving watch history. Rolex had created the Submariner with a specific goal in mind, to be used for underwater exploration and diving. Not only had Rolex met this goal, they also paved the way for how diving watches should be made. When the Submariner was released, it was given to many deep-sea professionals to be worn and tested during their diving exploration missions. Dimitri Rebikoff (a well-known French Engineer recognised for his work involved in underwater photography) loved the watch so much that he stated “it not only held its own when tested in extreme diving conditions but also proved itself to be a vital equipment to a diver’s arsenal”. Over the years, the Submariner has become a modern icon in Rolex’s professional collection. The Submariner is so popular that it can be found on the wrists of people from many different professions. This particular model is also known as the ‘Hulk’ due to its beautiful green sunburst dial and bezel. The dial is not just a standard green finish either. The sunburst dial...
SJX Watches
Watch collectors who were around in the late 1990s and early 2000s would remember Ventura. It specialised in – literally – design watches. All its timepieces were created by noted industrial designers, including Flemming Bo Hansen and more frequently, Hannes Wettstein, who also designed the Nomos Zurich. The house style was sleek, pared back, slightly Scandinavian, but also distinguished by unusual materials – Ventura made liberal use of surfaced hardened titanium (Titanox) and steel (Durinox), a great novelty at the time. The Ventura V-Matic Ego remake But the brand made a pivot into high-end, self-winding electronic watches in the early 2000s, which unsurprisingly ended in Ventura going bust. Now Ventura is being resurrected by its former owner, UK-based watch importer Zeon Ltd (that’s in turn owned by a Hong Kong watch manufacturer), in partnership with Stephan Hürlemann, the designer who took over Wettstein’s studio after his death. I liked very much what Ventura was doing back in the day – the combination of design and materials was unique – but the original watches were surprisingly expensive, particularly by the standards of the time. The new remakes manage to reproduce the original design in a similar alloy, at a notably affordable price. Designer watches for less The revived Ventura sticks to a tried and tested sales formula: direct to the consumer via crowdfunding platform Kickstarter, making the new Ventura watches notably affordable, s...
Time+Tide
One of the longest and most sustained watch ‘trends’ in recent times is that of vintage and retro styled pieces. In fact, you could argue that it’s now a bona fide category in its own right. And underlying this entire movement is the concept of patina. Sure, retro design plays a part, but the real … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The rise of patina appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Editor’s note: There’s something in the fine, crisp Swiss water at chez Bulgari. Their watch design of late has been impressive, to say the least. And, as a recap, here’s a look at the hero releases from this year’s Baselworld. Enjoy the thinness. Over at Bulgari, the reign of the Octo Finissimo continues to flourish. … ContinuedThe post 3 of the best Bulgari watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The creation of the Beta 21 quartz watch brought a revolution in case design that led to the creation of some of horology’s most extraordinary timepieces.
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Seiko’s distinctive shrouded diver (commonly called the ‘Tuna Can’) is a real cult model, due in equal parts to its indestructibility and its distinctive design. It’s a watch that stands out from across the street, or in five metres of murky water - depending on how you like to use your dive watches. Having said … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex ‘Street Series’ Solar Diver SNE533P appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Cartier Santos sees a major design upgrade with its newly cased line. Notably, the profile of the case, bezel and thickness have become more streamlined. The new case also features a quick release strap design, reminiscent of smart watches -- think Fitbit, Apple Watch. But what really makes this design great again and still a novelty despite its otherwise 'fashionable' status lies in the movement of the new Santos de Cartier Chronograph.
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Editor’s note: Next week, Breguet will unveil its 2019 releases to the world, and we can’t wait. So, in preparation, we thought we’d have another look at Justin’s piece on the fundamentals of Breguet’s approach to watchmaking and watch design … With a brand so rich in history, the origins of what can only be … ContinuedThe post The world of watchmaking at Breguet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Editor’s note: IWC’s Big Pilot is one of the most significant watches of the last 20 years. Its deceptively simple design belied the huge impact this 46mm monster had on the watch scene. But can it go dressy? Well, the IWC Big Pilot Edition “Le Petit Prince” makes a solid argument for the yay camp. When … ContinuedThe post Big blue, the IWC Big Pilot Edition “Le Petit Prince” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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When the original 1970’s Seiko diver’s watch was created, its designers had only one thought in mind; to build a diver’s watch that delivered the reliability, durability, precision and legibility that serious adventurers required. Little did they know that a subsequent version of the watch with this same characteristic case design was destined to develop a worldwide following and earn the affectionate and unforgettable nickname of the “turtle”.
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Last year, Longines’ core modern dive watch, the HydroConquest, received a significant stylistic upgrade, with a sleeker design and a ceramic bezel. This year, we see Longines give their flagship diver the full ceramic treatment. On seeing these pictures for the first time, my impression was - who knew the HydroConquest was such a bad beast? … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines HydroConquest, now in black ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Editor’s note: One of the greatest watch releases of 2018 was the brand new, revamped Seamaster Professional from Omega. A compelling combination of good design, great construction and a price that is competitive to say the least. It all adds up to a watch that’s hard to beat as an all day, every day contender. … ContinuedThe post Is the Omega Seamaster Professional 300M Diver the best everyday wearer on the market right now? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
When the original 1970’s Seiko diver’s watch was created, its designers had only one thought in mind; to build a diver’s watch that delivered the reliability, durability, precision and legibility that serious adventurers required. Little did they know that a subsequent version of the watch with this same characteristic case design was destined to develop a worldwide following and earn the affectionate and unforgettable nickname of the “turtle”.
Revolution
The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator is a watch that stands out from the collection of timepieces offered by the maison due to its design and dial layout.
Time+Tide
In these days of globalised production and democratised design it seems like there are more micro watch brands than ever before and, really, most of them are pretty forgettable, all riffing from the same songbook/factory catalogue. So when something a little left of centre shows up, I tend to pay attention. The Ianos Avyssos is … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: A deep-diving Greek, the Ianos Avyssos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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If I’m being honest, this is one of the less “Breguet” watches Breguet has released in recent years. It’s an unconventional mix of traditional features, in a much more contemporary package. All the key design features are there: the fluted case, the hands and the elaborately guillochéd dial, but this watch is a world away … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Breguet Marine Chronograph ref. 5527 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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