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New: Hanhart Preventor HD12
Hanhart releases a new watch which they call the Preventor HD12 in a new scratch-resistant steel case. Available in leather strap or steel bracelet.
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SJX Watches
Longines’ Retro Legend Diver 39 mm in Modern Colours
For the 65th of its trademark vintage dive watch of the 1960s, Longines is giving the modern remake a set of new colours. The new Legend Diver is essentially extensions of last year’s release, retaining the double-crown case in the smaller 39 mm size and gaining new dial colours in green, terracotta, or anthracite grey. The model is equipped with a “grains-of-rice” stainless steel bracelet with a micro-adjustment feature. Initial thoughts While many brands, namely Rolex and Blancpain, have established a familiar template for the dive watch, Longines has its a distinct design with the Legend Diver that has its characteristic Super Compressor case with two crowns and internal bezel. The design isn’t unique to Longines but the brand has arguably been most successful with it in the modern day And compared to other Super Compressor-style divers in this price range, the Legend Diver has the advantage of a higher-spec movement in the form of the COSC-certified L888.6 with 72 hours of power reserve. This makes the Legend Diver an appealing and affordable watch that’s priced at US$3,400. Lacquered colours The highlight of the release are the lacquered dial in green, terracotta and anthracite grey. The colour extends to the rotating bi-directional bezel designed for measuring dive time. The bezel can be rotated utilising the screw-in crown at two o’clock. The dial layout is symmetrical with no date, and features elongated indices and raised Arabic numerals coated with Su...
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New: Armin Strom unveils the Dual Time GMT Resonance in 39mm
Swiss independent watch brand Armin Strom celebrates the 15th anniversary of its fully-integrated Manufacture by reimagining its most historically significant innovation, the resonance complication, in an entirely new Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition. The new timepiece is presented in a hotly-anticipated 39-mm case size made in 18-karat white gold and limited to 25 pieces.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Ressence TYPE 3 BB2
The latest oil-filled mechanical wonder from Ressence features a blacked-out theme that’s aesthetically similar to the limited Type 3 BBB from 2022, but a splash of dial colour was added for contrast. Unlike the standard Type 3 Black, the watch is in full stealth mode with a black DLC-coated case that merges with the glossy […]
Monochrome
First Look - The new Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30th Anniversario 916
Gerald Charles, a brand founded by the legendary watch designer Gérald Genta in 2000, has made a convincing comeback under Federico Ziviani’s leadership. The revival began in 2020 with the reintroduction of a distinctive 2006 Genta design, the unique Maestro Anniversary case, paired with a moulded rubber strap. Several iterations of the Maestro have been […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Malachite Limited Edition
Frederique Constant has updated its Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture with a premium 18k white gold case and green malachite dial that’s being released in limited numbers. It’s aesthetically similar to the British racing green (dial) steel variant from a few months ago, but is now much more premium with the change in materials. The watch […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic
In its original form, the Piaget Polo is an all-gold watch emblematic of 1970s style, but the model’s latest incarnation is the opposite. The Polo Skeleton Ceramic has an ultra-thin movement open-worked in a clean, geometric style, presented in brushed black ceramic case. Based on the original in steel, the Polo Skeleton Ceramic is dressed in restrained colours of black, grey, and dark blue, for a minimalist, low-key aesthetic. Initial thoughts The modern Polo has evolved since its original form of 2016, and with the evolution the model has gained its own character. While the original version felt like a typical luxury-sports watch with its patterned blue dial and prominent bezel, the skeleton in ceramic looks original. The matte black ceramic case matches the technical appearance of the movement, though I would have preferred grey or even white Super-Luminova. The blue lume matches the rotor and Piaget’s corporate colour, but it is too unorthodox (and it also glows less brightly). Though finished with the same alternate brushed and polished surfaces as its steel counterpart, the ceramic case feels more refined given the comparative challenge of finishing ceramic to the same degree as steel. The cal. 1200S1 is open worked in a modern style that is typical of many current skeleton movements. All of the bridges have clean lines and surfaces, which complements the case and dial aesthetic. The movement finishing is industrial-haute horlogerie, though I would have employed ...
SJX Watches
IWC Unveils All-Titanium Mark XX Patrouille Suisse
Continuing with its series of editions made for the Swiss Air Force’s aerobatic team, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Patrouille Suisse is a clean, no-frills watch based on IWC’s entry-level pilot’s watch. A limited edition of 250 pieces, the Mark XX Patrouille Suisse is the fifth edition dedicated to the aerobatics team. This has two notable features that set it apart from the regular production Mark XX. First, the case is entirely in matte titanium instead of stainless steel. Secondly, the dial is sunburst-brushed slate grey rather than black or blue. Initial thoughts As one of IWC’s bestsellers, the Mark XX is a modern take on the historical IWC pilot’s watch. It’s relatively affordable and an easily wearable 40 mm. The standard Mark XX sticks to the standard template, so it isn’t that interesting. The Patrouille Suisse edition, on the other hand, is different enough to be interesting, but not so much that it loses the recognisable styling. The lightweight, low-key titanium case is particularly fitting for a pilot’s watch, both in terms of visuals and feel. And the grey dial adds a bit of nuance to an otherwise monochromatic look, though it could have been better without the date. Priced at US$6,500, the Mark XX Patrouille Suisse doesn’t cost too much more than the standard model, which makes it a compelling alternative. Admittedly the cal. 32111 inside is one of IWC’s most economical movements, but it is acceptable for the price. Shades of grey Ent...
Monochrome
Hands-on - Tackling The Brilliantly Practical Porsche Design Globetimer
On the occasion of Porsche launching the 911 992.2 Hybrid, Porsche Design introduced a new watch collection to its custom-built program. Mechanically based on the previous generation of the Globetimer, Porsche Design now puts it in the titanium case of the chronograph. Made to order, and with tons of custom options on offer, you can […]
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Rolex Sky-Dweller in Stainless Steel Rolesor
When Rolex put the Sky-Dweller Caliber 9001 in a Rolesor case in 2017 (“Rolesor” is a Rolex term for stainless steel and gold) and dropped the price down to $14,400 Chris Malburg became a player. And, as he soon discovered, so were a goodly number of other Rolex admirers. Here is why he bought this watch and what happened then.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Stowa Verus GMT Chrono Black Forest Limited: A Dark, Minimalist Evolution
In a move that amplifies its modern interpretation of classic pilot's watches, Stowa has introduced the Verus GMT Chrono Black Forest Limited, a watch that builds on the design DNA of the 2021 Verus GMT Chrono. This time, the watch has been given a stealthy makeover with a matte black DLC-coated case that stays true to the brand's ethos, while adding a layer of sophistication that will undoubtedly appeal to collectors. But when Stowa says "limited" here, they really mean it. There are only 10 of these! Sheesh.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Stowa Verus GMT Chrono Black Forest Limited
Following up on the 2021 Verus GMT Chrono, Stowa has updated its Red Dot Design Award winner with a matte black DLC-coated case. It’s still a fresh, contemporary design that’s stripped down to the essentials for a highly legible pilot’s watch that’s true to the brand’s overall Flieger design (like the Flieger Verus 36, for […]
SJX Watches
Squale Introduces the 1521 Marina Militare
To celebrating its 65th, Squale turns once again to the Italian navy for a dive watch collaboration: the 1521 Marina Militare. A tribute to the vintage 1521 model supplied to the divers of the Italian navy – officially known as the Marina Militare – in the 1980s, this limited edition bears the navy logo on the dial and the naval coat of arms on the case back. The rest of the watch is classic 1521 with its angular “Von Büren” case reminiscent of 1970s dive watches – that’s because Squale was historically also a supplier of cases to other brands that included Blancpain and Doxa. Initial thoughts Although vintage re-issues are common with micro-brands, few have true historical basis. Squale, however, does as it was both a supplier of dive watch cases to notable brands as well as suppliers of watches to the Italian navy. Even though the design of the isn’t novel or creative – it is a vintage reissue after all – the historical navy connection sets this apart from its peers. The dial, bezel, and strap feature orange accents Priced at US$1,430, 1521 Marina Militare is affordable and priced comparably to past Squale models. Like many watches in this price range it’s powered by an inexpensive Sellita SW 200-1. It’s priced similarly to most of the micro brand competition, but the Marine Militare connection makes this little a more interesting. Retro and orange The 1521 Marina Militare reproduces the vintage “Von Büren” case that is best known for having...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”
The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is a union of almost everything that is associated with A. Lange & Söhne, from the Lumen treatment to the case metal. Appropriately enough, it was conceived to mark a milestone: the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, the brand’s trademark chronograph. While the impressive watch has nearly all of Lange’s signature elements, is it truly great? Initial thoughts The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is ambitious because it is an all-in-one limited edition. The watch is big, heavy, and flawlessly executed. It feels like an object of exceptional quality, and lives up to expectations under a loupe. It captures Lange as a brand in tangible terms. The long name is descriptive and sums up the key elements of the watch, almost all of which are unique to Lange. While the earlier versions were already extremely complicated, this goes a further by incorporating uniquely Lange livery with the Lumen dial and Lange’s own Honeygold alloy. Essentially everything synonymous with Lange can be found here. There’s the Datograph chronograph movement, outsized date, a hacking tourbillon with a cage that will be familiar to fans of German watchmaking, the tinted-and-luminous dial, and the case in Lange’s proprietary gold alloy. The only distinctively Lange features missing are Handwerkskunst decoration and a chain and fusee, either of which would have hoisted the price past the million-dollar mark. But the latest...
Monochrome
First Look - The New Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date Atlantic
Launched in 2013 as the German brand’s sportiest model, the Ahoi collection has always been something of a black sheep at Nomos. Loosely defined as an old-rounder sports watch, the Ahoi watch marries its robust 200m water-resistant case to the understated and elegant design of Nomos watches, elevating it from the burly dive watch category […]
Fratello
It Can Dive As Deep As The Mountain Is High: A Hands-On With The Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810
The new Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 might be the perfect watch for spec-loving divers. Let’s look at the data, the numbers, and the cold, hard facts. Montblanc’s latest dive watch, the flagship of the newly formed Iced Sea collection, has a 43 × 19.4mm case containing no oxygen and is water resistant […] Visit It Can Dive As Deep As The Mountain Is High: A Hands-On With The Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
The Cartier Santos Dumont: Minimalism To The Max? (Hands On)
The Cartier Santos Dumont is a watch beautifully frozen in time – aesthetically and functionally true to the original, and it’s still as relevant as ever in 2024. What We Love Classic and timeless design Thin, elegant, and comfortable on the wrist Movement is smooth and appropriate for a dress piece What We Don’t Wears larger than anticipated (due to my small wrists) The pin buckle is finicky at times and hard to adjust A display case back would be great! Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Ah, Cartier: One of the pillars of modern watchmaking as we know it. Even though they are a High Jewellery Maison, their knowledge of horology is storied and epic, and through their achievements, sparked some of the most important innovations in the history of this beautiful art. I’ve known about Cartier and their reputation my whole life, but other than occasionally peering into their boutique and looking through the window, I always thought my opinion of them would never extend further than their occasional appearances in rom-coms, music, and other pop culture. The Cartier Santos Dumont Getting into the watch business gave me a whole new perspective on what I knew about the Parisian brand. Getting into Watch Advice also allowed me to take a massive deep dive into Cartier’s history, which naturally garnered a new respect for them. The Santos was the first ever wristwatch? How crazy is that? I won’t nerd you o...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Scales Down the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked
Audemars Piguet (AP) first unveiled the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked in 2016, in full-sized 41 mm format. It’s a technically interesting take on the brand’s signature luxury-sports watch. While it is a time-only watch, the skeletonised movement sports a pair of mirrored, superimposed balance wheels and hairsprings. Though already available in 37 mm with a sparkly “frosted” case or entirely gem-set, the 37 mm model wasn’t offered in the classic Royal Oak finish. Now the movement makes its debut in a compact 37 mm case in the traditional brushed-and-polished finish. It’s available in either pink or white gold with the open-worked movement colour-matched to the case metal. Initial thoughts The Double Balance Wheel model is something of a halo model for the Royal Oak range. Though it is not complicated in the functional sense, it is equipped with an interesting feature that theoretically contributes to chronometry. Add to that the distinctive aesthetics of the skeletonised movement, and the result is a watch that is classical Royal Oak in design yet more sophisticated in technical terms. The original 41 mm model, however, was fairly large, and the angular form of the Royal Oak accentuated the size. The original 37 mm models were extravagant and perhaps too over-the-top for everyday wear. The new pair is easily more wearable and should appeal to a wider audience. The new models are each priced at US$98,100, which is comparable to the earlier versions...
Monochrome
Introducing - A New Blue Panda TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon
When TAG Heuer released its Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in 2016, it created a sensation on the watch market. It was not because of its double complications or its imposing 45mm case and skeletonised dial but because it featured an in-house integrated chronograph movement with a tourbillon regulator (Heuer 02T) and a hyper-aggressive price tag of […]
Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Introduces an Updated Take on the Disco Volante
The latest from Furlan Marri pays tribute to a classic watch design while adding just enough of a twist to make it feel contemporary. The new Disco Volante takes a circular, flying saucer-like case that first became popular in the 1930s as its starting point, and tweaks the formula slightly. Thinking about Furlan Marri’s previous work and the design language they’ve established, the Disco Volante makes a lot of sense in their ongoing project of updating classic Art Deco ideas, and the watch really fits into the current moment as well, which has seen shaped cases and unusual designs pulled from the past and brought up to date for new audiences. The circular cases seen here have hidden lugs on the back side, so these sit as a perfect circle on the wrist. Cases with no visible lugs, of course, tend to wear a bit smaller, so Furlan Marri has chosen to make these Disco Volantes in 38mm as opposed to the more traditional 36mm cases found on vintage watches in this style. In theory, this should open up the Disco Volante to both men and women who are used to wearing modern watches, but seek something a little unusual and heavily vintage inspired. The integrated crown that sits flush with the case further reinforces the Disco Volante’s shape, as does the gently curved bezel. Three dial options are available at launch: Havana Disco, Disco Celeste, and Disco Verde. The Havana Disco is perhaps the most striking of the bunch, and acts as a link to Furlan Marri’s very first ...
Fratello
Upgrade Or Switch Styles With The Forstner Model J And Model O For The Seiko SKX
The Seiko SKX is one of the most popular entry-level mechanical watches ever. There is a good chance that you, as a Fratello reader, have owned one at some point or still do. In any case, this is true for me. However, the original bracelet of that watch has always been controversial. It is infamously […] Visit Upgrade Or Switch Styles With The Forstner Model J And Model O For The Seiko SKX to read the full article.
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New: Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue”
The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic "Blue" is a notable addition to the Black Bay lineup, featuring a 41mm matte black ceramic case and a striking matte blue dial. This model retains the METAS-certified master chronometer MT5602-U1 movement, ensuring high precision and anti-magnetic properties. The watch is equipped with a hybrid leather and rubber strap, as well as a fabric strap, both complementing the blue dial.
Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon in Wyoming Jade and Gold
One of the things Martin Green admires about Moser is that they seem to design each and every individual watch. The new Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade is a case in point.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic
A new livery for one of Zenith’s most popular models, the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic shares the styling of its siblings like the Defy Skyline 36 mm but with a few notable tweaks including a white ceramic case and blue-treated skeletonised movement. And though it appears to be a simple time-only watch, the Defy Skyline features a discreet complication in the form of a “lightning” small seconds hand that completes one rotation every ten seconds. Initial thoughts Zenith has recently been playing it safe with new launches by building on current bestsellers, like the Defy Skyline. The new skeleton in white ceramic is a good looking watch, and an excellent execution of one of Zenith’s modern-day classics. The combination is also novel. Although each key element of the watch is common in itself – a skeleton movement plus the white ceramic case and bracelet – they are relatively uncommon together. The Defy Skyline Skeleton on the wrist However, the Defy Skyline arguably tries too hard to capitalise on the recent (and waning) popularity of integrated-bracelet sports watches. It is not difficult to see a resemblance to the Royal Oak, in particular the one-off Royal Oak made for Only Watch 2023, making it a bit cliché. Priced at US$17,500, the Defy Skyline Skeleton in white ceramic is a decent value proposition compared to similar watches, most of which are from pricier brands like Hublot or Audemars Piguet. Besides the ceramic case and bracelet, it stands out ...
Fratello
The Breitling Endurance Pro Lost 6mm And Seems In Better Shape Than Ever
You know the Breitling Endurance Pro as a 44mm sports watch with a Breitlight case and a SuperQuartz movement inside. Now there’s a new size in town. The 38mm version of the Endurance Pro is positioned as a universal watch, although two of the five colorways available are probably perceived as feminine. Anyway, the color […] Visit The Breitling Endurance Pro Lost 6mm And Seems In Better Shape Than Ever to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: F.P. Journe Élégante “Gino’s Dream”
Now a legend in his own time, François-Paul Journe is an independent watchmaker who has created some of the most complicated and most ingenious timepieces in contemporary watchmaking. But having quietly previewed it last year, Mr Journe finally launched a watch that is, on its face, surprising for his brand: the Élégante Gino’s Dream. Many brands have “rainbow” watches in their catalogues, but as is always the case with Mr Journe, his “rainbow” creation is done his own inimitable way. Based on his inventive quartz watch, the Élégante Gino’s Dream is set with synthetic gemstones of glass-ceramic composite. The colours and model name are a tribute to the late Gino Cukrowicz (1959-2021), one of Mr Journe’s best friends and a longtime business partner. Initial thoughts With the popularity – and value – of “rainbow” watches, it seems like every watch brand has one in its line-up, from the Patek Philippe Aquanaut minute repeater in rainbow stones from end to end to Tudor’s special edition for the VCARB Formula 1 team. So an F.P. Journe in those colours isn’t surprising, yet the Élégante “Gino’s Dream” is unexpected. As with much he has done, Mr Journe didn’t do a “rainbow” like anyone else. Instead of an exceptionally expensive gem-set watch – a favoured approach as a sure way to increase revenue without boosting production – he created something entry-level, more or less. And the watch has a deeply personal aspect to it – Gino...
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands-On With The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster
In this latest hands-on review, we look at Seiko’s Prospex Marinmaster, a reinterpretation of the brand’s first-ever 1965 diver’s watch. What We Love: The mix of brushed and polished surfaces on the case, bracelet and dial The dial pattern and colour are stunning in person. Open case back showing movement for the first time in a Seiko diver. What We Don’t: The bracelet clasp design is not suited for high-end Seiko divers. Open case back could show more of the movement. The date window could have been placed better for a more balanced dial view. Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Seiko first introduced a trio of Prospex Marinemaster models in late 2023. These timepieces merged two of the brand’s best heritage diver timepieces, the Marinemaster from 2000 and the classic first-ever Seiko divers watch, the 1965 62MAS. Combining two signature designs to make a brand new modern diver’s timepiece. The 2023 Prospex Marinemaster models showcase Seiko’s renowned craftsmanship and dedication to creating excellent dive watches. The collection uses a rugged design along with beautiful dial aesthetics to make it known that it can be used as both a tool watch and a daily wearer. The Prospex Marinemaster also uses the iconic Seiko watch designs from the above-mentioned references. Original 1965 62MAS Diver watch (left) vs modern re-interpretation Save The Ocean Limited Edition (right) Seiko is well known ...
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Slimmer and Smaller Byrne Gyro Dial Meca
Customisation has fast become a watch industry standard, offering buyers a host of case materials, dial colours, strap options, etc… However, it’s not often that you come across a watch with four different faces, or rather, four different fonts for four revolving numerals on the dial. Designer and former watch restorer John Byrne’s Gyro Dial […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Lange Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary
A. Lange & Söhne marks the 25th year of its landmark chronograph this year, with two commemorative editions so far – a tremendously expensive all-in-one edition and the relatively more accessible Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary. The first Datograph with a white gold case and also the first regular production model with a blue dial, the anniversary edition the result of a relatively modest cosmetic makeover – but unexpectedly compelling. Initial thoughts The Datograph in an imperfect watch – amongst other things it’s top heavy with a somewhat dated dial design – but it has an intrinsic appeal because its movement is outstanding. Even though it’s already 25 years old, the movement remains exceptional in terms of aesthetics. The fact that it’s 25 years old also makes the Datograph important, because Lange created such a movement long before such things became a thing. So the 25th anniversary of the Datograph is an occasion worth marking. Lange debuted two watches for the anniversary (with perhaps a third one to come): the complicated and expensive Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen, and the more accessible Datograph 25th Anniversary. On its face the Datograph Up/Down seems a bit mundane for an anniversary watch. Both the blue dial and white gold case are unique for the Datograph, but together the watch doesn’t look or feel that different. But like the Datograph as a model, the anniversary edition is imperfect yet appealing. Though it is plain...
SJX Watches
Longines Unveils the Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition in Titanium
Following the original Pilot Majetek in stainless steel, Longines has unveiled the Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition with a titanium case and a grey-tone livery. Modelled on the original majetek aviator’s watch supplied to the Czechoslovakian air force in the 1930s, the limited edition is identical to the stainless steel variation in terms of design, dimensions, and movement, but is lightweight thanks to the case metal but also unexpectedly pricey. The Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition in grade 5 titanium Initial thoughts The Pioneer Edition is Longines’ third re-issue of the original. Longines didn’t quite get it right with the first remake, the Heritage 1935. It lacked the rotating bezel with a triangular marker that was one of the defining features of the original, and also had an awkwardly positioned date window at six and “automatic” on the dial. Last year’s Pilot Majetek in steel was not really a remake since it has a distinctly different case design, but still gained several refinements over the Heritage 1935. However, the Pioneer Edition is not really a tangible improvement over the steel model. Thought the titanium case does bring with it lightness as well as a muted grey finish that goes well with the design, it comes at a big price increase of almost 40% over the steel version. Such a large premium for a titanium case doesn’t make much sense today given the difference in cost of a case in either material is negligible for a big brand. The Arabic indices, a...