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It’s All In The Details: The New Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Arabic Vintage Fratello
Moritz Grossmann Oct 27, 2024

It’s All In The Details: The New Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Arabic Vintage

Admittedly, I’ve never covered a watch from Moritz Grossmann. A couple of weeks ago, though, I received an email that caught my attention. The new Benu 37 Arabic Vintage may look simple, but there’s plenty to uncover. The name Moritz Grossmann is steeped in history. In 1854, Grossmann established an atelier in Glashütte and began […] Visit It’s All In The Details: The New Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Arabic Vintage to read the full article.

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: How The Invention of Balance Spring Changed the World Worn & Wound
Sep 24, 2024

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: How The Invention of Balance Spring Changed the World

Editor’s Note: Today, we bring you the second part in the new series from Andrew Canter, the Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. In this installment, Andrew examines the invention of the balance spring, a watchmaking advancement that not only charted a path for the watch industry, but can be said to have legitimately changed the world, enabling accurate, reliable, and portable timekeeping for the first time in human history. Who actually invented it, though, is still a matter of some debate, even after 350 years.  You can find more of Andrew’s work at the Mr. Watchmaster website here. Prior to the Balance Spring Early watches were powered by a verge escapement which was the same type of movement used in the early clocks. The verge is the earliest known type of mechanical escapement that controlled its rate by allowing the gear train to advance at regular intervals or ‘ticks’. Verge escapements were used from the late 13th century until the mid-19th century in clocks and pocket watches. Drawing of a verge escapement (bottom) and balance wheel (top) from an early pocket watch from an encyclopaedia c.1820 In the earliest watches a plain wheel, known as the balance, was used to control the rate of going of the mechanism. There wasn’t a consistent restoring force (such as a fusee), so consequently, its period of oscillation and, hence, the rate of the timekeeper were dependent on the driving force. Oval verge escapement watch movement by William Petit, Londo...

Introducing: The Ressence Type 3 BB2 In Nearly All-Black Attire Fratello
Ressence Type 3 BB2 Aug 29, 2024

Introducing: The Ressence Type 3 BB2 In Nearly All-Black Attire

In January 2022, Ressence introduced the Type 3 BBB, a “Black, Black, Black” version of its oil-filled mechanical watch. My colleague Dave dubbed it “the brand’s best model yet.” However, Ressence limited the production of the watch to that year only. If you were looking for an all-black Ressence Type 3 after that, you were […] Visit Introducing: The Ressence Type 3 BB2 In Nearly All-Black Attire to read the full article.

Introducing – An Overview of all the New Watches for the Comeback of Favre Leuba Monochrome
Favre Leuba As we recently discussed Aug 29, 2024

Introducing – An Overview of all the New Watches for the Comeback of Favre Leuba

As we recently discussed with Patrik Hoffmann, long-established brand Favre-Leuba is making a comeback with ambitious plans. To revive one of the oldest names in the watch industry, Hoffmann aims to position the brand within its historical price segment (between CHF 2,000 and 4,500), offering affordable yet high-value watches with a strong vintage inspiration – […]

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - RJ’s Picks From Swatch, Rolex, And Blancpain Fratello
Blancpain I have just returned Aug 8, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - RJ’s Picks From Swatch, Rolex, And Blancpain

I have just returned from my summer holidays (in Austria), where I brought a handful of watches to wear. Typically, I travel as light as possible. Especially when leaving the EU, I try to bring one watch to prevent problems with customs. This time, staying within the EU, I brought four watches with me: the […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - RJ’s Picks From Swatch, Rolex, And Blancpain to read the full article.

Introducing – The new Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO is all about Underwater Readability Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO Jul 29, 2024

Introducing – The new Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO is all about Underwater Readability

Forget about thinness and vintage designs. Today’s watch is aggressively cool, impressively technical and not meant to slip under a cuff. It’s a proper dive instrument with a bold design that’s here to make an impressive. And it did so, not only underwater but also on the silver screen, as the Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO appeared […]

Business News: Swatch Groups Profit Sinks and Inventories Grow SJX Watches
Blancpain stand out Jul 16, 2024

Business News: Swatch Groups Profit Sinks and Inventories Grow

The owner of brands like Omega and Longines, the Swatch Group just announced its results for the first half of 2024. The half-year numbers crystallised a slowdown that the watch industry has felt since late 2023. Revenue was down 14.3% to CHF3.44 billion, while operating profit plunged 70% to just CHF204 million, giving the group an operating margin of just 5.9%, compared to 17.1% from a year earlier. According to Swatch, the fall in revenue was “triggered by the sharp drop in demand for luxury goods in China (including Hong Kong SAR and Macau SAR)”. At the same time, wholesale sales fell over 10%, indicating that third-party retailers are ordering less watches from the group’s brands, which in turn indicates the retailers’ pessimism for the short- and medium term. Swatch also explained the poor results by noting the group did not “make any redundancies… [and] maintaining all production capacities and not laying off qualified staff”. This was done so that “the Group [will] recover more quickly and benefit more significantly from the next upswing.” The progressively weakening positions of each of the group’s brands relative to the competition – marques like Breguet and Blancpain stand out in this regard – imply this might be overoptimistic. Notably, Swatch stated “the Swatch brand bucked the negative trend” thanks to the bestselling MoonSwatch, but this was not (and will not) be sufficient to help the rest of the group given the low value of Swat...

Parties, Panels, and Pizza! All the Events During Windup Chicago 2024 Worn & Wound
Jul 9, 2024

Parties, Panels, and Pizza! All the Events During Windup Chicago 2024

This time next week we will be recovering from another exciting Chicago Windup Watch Fair full of great memories from our third annual trip to the Windy City. With over 60 brands showcasing the latest and greatest in watch releases from around the globe, we’d understand if you have already put together your plan of brands to visit during your time at Venue West. Update those plans because the Windup Lineup of Panels and events just dropped! As a reminder for those unfamiliar with Windup Chicago 2024, here are the key details for this free and open to the public event. Venue West – 221 N Paulina St, Chicago, IL 60612 Friday, July 12: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, July 13: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, July 14: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public Free parking available across the street from the venue As always, we work closely with our editorial team and our Lead Sponsors to craft engaging panels for audiences to get even deeper looks into the wonderful world of watches. We always make sure to include a bit of time for Q&A; as well. Beyond panels, be sure to stay around the venue for meetups, happy hours, and extra surprises to come throughout the weekend. Take a look below at the schedule and be sure to join Worn & Wound+, our free Slack community to get the latest and greatest Windup news over the weekend.  Thursday, July 11, 2024 Chicago Windup Watch Fair Opening Reception 6:00 PM – 8:00 PM *MUST RSVP TO ATTEND* To celebrate Windup’s return to the Windy City, we’ve teamed...

Fratello Talks: Where Did All The Watches Go? Fratello
Jul 4, 2024

Fratello Talks: Where Did All The Watches Go?

Welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. Today, Nacho, RJ, and Daan ask themselves the question: where did all the watches go? Whether consciously or otherwise, watch spotting is something every watch-minded person partakes in. It may be when walking down the street, at your office, in a restaurant, or even on holiday - […] Visit Fratello Talks: Where Did All The Watches Go? to read the full article.

Opinion: Maybe One Group Controlling All the Major Luxury Brands Would Be Bad? Worn & Wound
Jul 1, 2024

Opinion: Maybe One Group Controlling All the Major Luxury Brands Would Be Bad?

It’s been a slow few months in the watch industry. Not at all uncommon in the summer, and we haven’t even hit the real sleepy months yet, when most of Europe goes on holiday and American watch media is confronted with the reality that we’re working a beat that doesn’t really exist for a short period of time. But there was real news last week: Bloomberg reported that LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault owns a (small) personal stake in the Richemont Group, his closest rival in the luxury goods space. Once the news broke, many began to speculate. Hey, it’s a slow summer – speculating is what keeps us awake. Could this be a sign that LVMH is positioning itself to buy the Richemont Group? Could that even happen? What’s the actual point of antitrust laws anyway?  Bernard Arnault There’s no actual indication, of course, that Arnault wants to purchase Richemont. The holdings, according to Bloomberg, are part of a larger portfolio of Arnault family investments that include many publicly traded companies. No comment as of yet from Richemont or LVMH, although as many outlets are reporting, LVMH has a history of buying an interest in their rivals.  We live in a world where insane wealth becomes more insane every year, so it’s not a huge mental leap to think that Bernard Arnault, who on any given day might be the world’s wealthiest man, could have eyes on getting even richer. Taking an ownership stake in Richemont would almost certainly do that. It likely already has – Ric...

The Oris Hölstein Edition 2024: An All-Blacked-Out Divers Sixty-Five Fratello
Casio n - Oris’s 120th Jun 1, 2024

The Oris Hölstein Edition 2024: An All-Blacked-Out Divers Sixty-Five

Oris Hölstein Editions are an annual celebration for the independent Swiss watch brand. This year marks a rather special occasion - Oris’s 120th anniversary. To celebrate this impressive birthday, the house is releasing a special Divers Sixty-Five, fully dipped in black paint. Okay, technically speaking, it’s not really black paint. But we do get a […] Visit The Oris Hölstein Edition 2024: An All-Blacked-Out Divers Sixty-Five to read the full article.

Are Timex Watches Good? All You Need to Know About the Quintessential Teddy Baldassarre
Timex May 16, 2024

Are Timex Watches Good? All You Need to Know About the Quintessential

For many watch enthusiasts, a Timex watch is the gateway drug for a lifetime of timepiece obsession - understated in presentation, stylish in execution, affordable in price and found just about everywhere. And what Timex may lack in prestige and collectibility, especially when stacked up against industry titans from Switzerland, it makes up for in the key role it has played in "democratizing" timekeeping and for its undeniable influence on Americana and popular culture. How much do you really know about Timex? Read on for a brief but detailed historical perspective, followed by a showcase of the most noteworthy Timex watches on the market now. Waterbury Clock Company Factory  From its earliest days, the company now known as Timex was dedicated to making timekeepers that were both reliable and affordable to the masses. Based in Waterbury, Connecticut, and originally a division of brass manufacturer Benedict & Burnham, the Waterbury Clock Company opened its doors in 1854, specializing in the mass production of clocks with gears and wheels made of brass. By 1857, when it was incorporated as an independent business, Waterbury Clock Company was churning out millions of clocks, all priced lower than their European competitors, with parts sourced from manufacturers in Connecticut’s Naugatuck Valley region, which became known at the time as the “Switzerland of America;” Waterbury, the largest city in the region, still carries the nickname “Brass City.” The manufacturi...

Sunday Morning Showdown: TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith Vs. Omega × Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch Fratello
TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith May 5, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith Vs. Omega × Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch

It has already been just over two years since the Omega × Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch came out. At the time, the lines in front of the Swatch boutiques were unheard of in the watch world. Although the hype isn’t as huge anymore, new versions, like the recently introduced Snoopies, keep the Bioceramic phenomenon alive and […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith Vs. Omega × Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch to read the full article.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight: Our Guide to All the Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Apr 26, 2024

Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight: Our Guide to All the Watches

Tudor returned to the U.S. market after a lengthy absence in 2013 and the Rolex-owned brand had its first big hit in this modern era with the launch of the Black Bay (originally the Heritage Black Bay), a stylish, sporty divers’ watch, with a plethora of historical details drawn from Tudor dive watches of yore. In 2018, in response to growing consumer demand both for more modest case sizes and for greater period authenticity in vintage-style timepieces, Tudor introduced the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, which proved to hit the sweet spot for many contemporary enthusiasts. Named for the year 1958, in which Tudor released the Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7924, the most clear forerunner to the Black Bay, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight models match that watch’s 39mm case diameter, which is downsized from the 41mm-to-43mm sizes still common to the core Black Bay series. Since its launch, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight has become one of the most popular extensions of the expanding Black Bay collection, and has been the stage for Tudor’s recent (and historically rare) forays into the realm of precious metals. Descended From a Prince: Black Bay DNA The aesthetic origin of the Black Bay starts with the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, released in 1954, one year after big brother Rolex rolled out its own much more famous purpose-built dive watch, also called the Submariner. This original version, Ref. 7922, used the same “Mercedes” handset found on many Rolex models and was water-resistan...

Fratello Talks: Swatch Group Novelties From The Watch Valley Event In Utrecht Fratello
Swatch Apr 25, 2024

Fratello Talks: Swatch Group Novelties From The Watch Valley Event In Utrecht

Hello, and welcome to an on-location episode of Fratello Talks. Today, Nacho, Daan, and Lex are coming to you from the Watch Valley event in Utrecht, where Swatch Group novelties for the first half of 2024 were unveiled. They’ll run through some of their favorites and give opinions on the different brand’s new watches and […] Visit Fratello Talks: Swatch Group Novelties From The Watch Valley Event In Utrecht to read the full article.

All of the New Portugiesers from IWC Worn & Wound
Rolex Apr 23, 2024

All of the New Portugiesers from IWC

One of the prevailing narratives to come out of Watches & Wonders 2024 was that it was, across the board, a pretty quiet year. That may have been true for some, but others, like IWC, came to play. A good portion of the attention IWC got this year was (justifiably) directed at the new Portugieser Eternal Calendar that Zach Kazan introduced a few weeks ago, but that watch was far from the only Portugieser IWC brought to Geneva this year. The Portugieser is not the first watch that springs to mind for most of us when contemplating IWC - far more likely would be some sort of Pilot’s Watch or, more recently, the Ingenieur - but it has been, at times subtly, possibly the most important collection in the IWC catalog. I know so many collectors for whom the Portugieser was their first nice watch, and it is a model I continue to see in the wild, especially in cities like New York or London where people still routinely wear suits to work. IWC, like Rolex, is a brand that prefers evolution over revolution when it comes to its designs - one only has to look at the slow transformation of the Pilot’s Watch for evidence of that. The last few years have seen the brand slowly tinkering with the Portugieser line, bringing it up to date and refining what was already a great watch to make it better. This year, they continued that process and introduced a slew of new models and colorways, all of which come together to make up possibly the best lineup of Portugiesers ever assembled. Co...

Rolex Introduces the All-Gold Deepsea Ref. 136668 LB SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Apr 13, 2024

Rolex Introduces the All-Gold Deepsea Ref. 136668 LB

Rolex has unveiled a luxe version of one of its top-of-the-line divers, the Deepsea ref. 136668 LB, which boasts a blue lacquer dial paired with a yellow gold case and bracelet. The timepiece makes a significant statement while preserving all the depth performance associated with its steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller. Initial thoughts Rolex has been hinting at forthcoming novelties on social media for a while, sparking anticipation among enthusiasts like myself who speculated that perhaps a new Submariner model was in development. However, the brand surprised us with something pretty unexpected. The new Deepsea features the iconic blue and yellow gold colour scheme reminiscent of past Submariner models, which adds a touch of nostalgia to the release. With a diameter of 44 mm, this watch carries considerable weight, especially with its heavy yellow gold construction, which adds substantial heft to the wrist. Priced at US$52,100, it far surpasses the cost of comparable steel models, which are roughly a third of its price. However, considering the solid yellow gold construction, the price is fitting, considering the current market climate. Blue and yellow gold  The latest model is a successor to the steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller. It maintains the renowned pressure-resistant architecture, with a ceramic compression ring and the Ringlock system for the bezel. Sporting a vibrant blue hue, the bezel, compression ring and dial all sharply contrast with the gilded gold lettering on the dial a...