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Quick takes: Zenith DEFY Extreme new for 2021 Deployant
Zenith DEFY Extreme new Oct 16, 2021

Quick takes: Zenith DEFY Extreme new for 2021

We like the look and feel of the watch; in particular for its larger size as compared to the DEFY 21. While it takes a larger wrist to pull off, the DEFY Extreme offers a compelling alternative in the skeleton sports watch category. As with the DEFY 21, the movement is ahead of most of its competitors, in technical feat and animation. The Extreme also offers multiple looks in one watch with a bracelet, rubber and velcro option interchangeable with a button quick release mechanism. Priced from US$18,000, the DEFY Extreme is a muscled up DEFY 21 for those who like a sporty chronograph with an extra heft.

When the quest for a Rolex becomes the adventure of a lifetime on Route 66 Time+Tide
Rolex becomes Oct 15, 2021

When the quest for a Rolex becomes the adventure of a lifetime on Route 66

It used to be that Rolex was the watch to be worn on adventures – climbing mountains, diving the ocean depths, exploring, and forging new discoveries in science involving huge magnetic fields. Well, Rolex is still in the adventure business, but these days the adventure is more likely to be actually trying to purchase the watch … ContinuedThe post When the quest for a Rolex becomes the adventure of a lifetime on Route 66 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Hamilton is levelling up the Khaki Field Collection with the new Hamilton x Far Cry 6 Limited Edition Khaki Field Titanium Time+Tide
Hamilton Oct 2, 2021

VIDEO: Hamilton is levelling up the Khaki Field Collection with the new Hamilton x Far Cry 6 Limited Edition Khaki Field Titanium

When it comes to big-screen cameos, Hamilton is in a class of their own. From movies like Interstellar and Tenet to television shows like Jack Ryan, the brand holds the record for the most watches featured on screen. Today, however, Hamilton breaks into a new medium in a partnership with game developer Ubisoft. This marks the first-ever branded watch-integration for a … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Hamilton is levelling up the Khaki Field Collection with the new Hamilton x Far Cry 6 Limited Edition Khaki Field Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

History Of Watchmaking: Günter Blümlein, A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, And The LMH ‘Supergroup’ Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre IWC Oct 1, 2021

History Of Watchmaking: Günter Blümlein, A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC, And The LMH ‘Supergroup’

October 1, 2021, marks 20 years since Günter Blümlein passed away at the age of just 58. His untimely death meant that A. Lange & Söhne lost its visionary co-founder, and the watch world lost a charismatic businessman and strategist who was a crucial factor in driving the mechanical renaissance of watchmaking in the late twentieth century. His legacy was – and remains – the three so-called LMH brands, a "supergroup" that went on to form the nucleus of Richemont’s high-level manufacturing capabilities at the turn of the millennium.

EDITOR’S PICK: Why I didn’t trade my collection for a Patek Philippe 5066 Aquanaut Time+Tide
Patek Philippe 5066 Aquanaut EDITOR’S NOTE Sep 29, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Why I didn’t trade my collection for a Patek Philippe 5066 Aquanaut

EDITOR’S NOTE: There are some members of the Time+Tide team whose watch collection seems to change on a monthly basis. There are constant purchases, trades, U-turns, I-can’t-believe-I-did-that moments. Their sheer love of watches means the horological merry-go-round never stops. Our deputy editor Zach is one of those guys. Here, he reflects on one time he … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Why I didn’t trade my collection for a Patek Philippe 5066 Aquanaut appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

You Can’t Ask That: The crazy (new) demand for complicated AP watches Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet story Why Sep 25, 2021

You Can’t Ask That: The crazy (new) demand for complicated AP watches

This is the seventh and final video in a series of more conversational, and less directly watch-focused, videos that aim to provide richer telling of the Audemars Piguet story. Why is it called, You Can’t Ask That? These are questions and topics that don’t commonly get addressed in the interviews with either Lucas Raggi, the Research … ContinuedThe post You Can’t Ask That: The crazy (new) demand for complicated AP watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fromanteel Watches: How 17th century clockmaking inspired a brand made for the here and now Time+Tide
Sep 24, 2021

Fromanteel Watches: How 17th century clockmaking inspired a brand made for the here and now

You can be in the right place, at the right time, but without good business acumen, you might watch an opportunity slip away. Such was the case with renowned Dutch mathematician, Christiaan Huygens, in mid-17th century Holland.  Here was a man who had just created a new mechanism that tremendously aided the pursuit of telling … ContinuedThe post Fromanteel Watches: How 17th century clockmaking inspired a brand made for the here and now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar (sans Tourbillon) SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5236P cost about Sep 8, 2021

In-Depth: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar (sans Tourbillon)

Launched earlier this year as its new flagship perpetual calendar wristwatch (replacing the venerable Langematik Perpetual), the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar (L1 QP) appears to be a simplified version of the same watch with a tourbillon from 2012. But it is actually entirely different. Though the L021.3 inside the L1 QP borrows from the architecture of an existing calibre, it has been extensively reengineered and substantially upgraded, as is the norm for Lange. And despite the new mechanics, the L1 QP retains the assuringly familiar face of the Lange 1. Initial thoughts The L1 QP was long awaited for the simple reason that is makes a good idea – a calendar cleverly displayed in the distinctive layout of the Lange 1 dial – far more affordable than it was. When it was first launched, it was combined with a tourbillon, which lifted the price to well over US$300,000. Now the same calendar layout is available in a watch priced at about US$100,000. That’s still a lot of money, but within the ballpark for a perpetual calendar from a high-end brand. Comparable watches like the recent Patek Philippe ref. 5236P cost about the same. So price wise, the L1 QP is acceptable, even reasonable value, because it is an excellent perpetual calendar. The display is unique, but strongly functional. The crucial bits of information, namely date and month, are easily readable. Add to that the trademark, asymmetric layout of the Lange 1, and the result is a display that excels in both clarit...

MICRO MONDAYS: Built for baristas, the Brew Retrograph Technicolor makes a welcome return Time+Tide
Brew Retrograph Technicolor makes Sep 6, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Built for baristas, the Brew Retrograph Technicolor makes a welcome return

Design is the language microbrands use best to communicate to collectors what it is they bring to the table. One microbrand who has done an amazing job of this is Brew Watch Company. Founded by designer Jonathan Ferrer in 2015, the company has released multiple collections, which feature attention-grabbing designs, that all focus on a … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Built for baristas, the Brew Retrograph Technicolor makes a welcome return appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bamford takes a step out of their comfort zone with a cracking monopusher chronograph     Time+Tide
Aug 26, 2021

Bamford takes a step out of their comfort zone with a cracking monopusher chronograph    

Walk into a room of watch enthusiasts and mention Bamford London. The first thing that comes to the mind of pretty much anyone you talk to is the brand’s amazing GMTs, flavoured in a broad array of colours. While being synonymous with a specific collection in your catalogue isn’t necessarily a bad thing, most brands … ContinuedThe post Bamford takes a step out of their comfort zone with a cracking monopusher chronograph     appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic Collection offers high-tech architecture for the wrist Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic Aug 13, 2021

VIDEO: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic Collection offers high-tech architecture for the wrist

While blue-dialled steel sports watches continue to skyrocket in price amongst collectors, the general public’s eye is quickly turning towards more exciting materials, particularly in more exciting colours. The staunch masculinity behind watch culture is starting to drip away, and Hublot’s Big Bang Integral collection in ceramic are proving that having fun with colour and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic Collection offers high-tech architecture for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fed up with vintage? The best modern antidotes for under $10K from Zenith to Hublot Time+Tide
Hublot I have asked Aug 13, 2021

Fed up with vintage? The best modern antidotes for under $10K from Zenith to Hublot

I have asked this question before, and I’m still asking it while wearing a creamy-lumed, vintage-looking diver’s watch. When do we reach peak vintage, and do we really want to? I love the time-travelling feeling, but I would also go mental if my entire collection consisted of 38mm vintage skindivers. If you’ve already hit saturation … ContinuedThe post Fed up with vintage? The best modern antidotes for under $10K from Zenith to Hublot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Reine de Naples 8938: Just Perfect For My Wrist Quill & Pad
Breguet Reine de Naples 8938 Aug 10, 2021

Breguet Reine de Naples 8938: Just Perfect For My Wrist

When Nancy Olson first saw the Breguet Reine de Naples at Baselworld many years ago, she remembers being taken by its absolute gorgeousness. It was so much more than a jewelry watch and it seemed to be made just for her wrist. Many years and many “try-ons” later, the Reine de Naples is Breguet’s flagship ladies collection, the most recent of which is the Reine de Naples 8938, which is available in two beautifully diamond-set versions.

Three big questions raised by the sale of the green dial steel Nautilus for half a million US dollars. What are your answers? Time+Tide
Jul 28, 2021

Three big questions raised by the sale of the green dial steel Nautilus for half a million US dollars. What are your answers?

The watch community hit peak frustration last week, irked by the sale of a still-sealed, green dial steel Nautilus for $490,000 USD. Flipping is rife in this hobby, and many see it as the largest problem in watch collecting today – a practice that makes it harder to secure in-demand timepieces. Sure, it’s nothing new, … ContinuedThe post Three big questions raised by the sale of the green dial steel Nautilus for half a million US dollars. What are your answers? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OPINION: Let’s face it, patina is just a fancy word for damage Time+Tide
Jul 18, 2021

OPINION: Let’s face it, patina is just a fancy word for damage

EDITOR’S NOTE: Don’t get hoodwinked by the marketing spin of the vintage watch world. That’s the advice of Dan Kaufman, a veteran Australian journalist who got in touch with this thought-provoking column. If you’ve got a watch-related subject you’d like to get off your chest, drop us a line at: info@timeandtimewatches.com. Let’s start by stating … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Let’s face it, patina is just a fancy word for damage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Revives the Cabaret Tourbillon in Handwerkskunst Style SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 13, 2021

A. Lange & Söhne Revives the Cabaret Tourbillon in Handwerkskunst Style

Easily the most surprising of the three recent releases by A. Lange & Söhne is something unconventional but familiar – the brand’s flagship rectangular watch that was first released in 2008, but now dressed up in artisanal finery. The Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst is seventh in the eponymous line characterised by artisanal decoration – handwerkskunst translates as “craftsmanship” – and features a hand-engraved lozenge pattern on the front and back, along with a fired enamel dial. Initial Impressions The Cabaret Tourbillon was quite a statement at its launch, being the first wristwatch with a hacking tourbillon – pull the crown and the entire tourbillon assembly stopped – which allowed for more precise setting of the time. But despite its merits, the original Cabaret Tourbillon was never a hot seller, so its revival is likely a one-off. The return of the model is certainly unexpected, since the Cabaret left the catalogue several years ago. The Cabaret quietly faded into obscurity, and the current Lange lineup is focused on round watches. Largely similar in style, but far more elaborate in decoration, the new Handwerkskunst edition is a fitting tribute to the discontinued model. Unlike earlier Handwerkskunst editions that were flashier, the Cabaret is executed more conservatively, with the decorative flourishes typical of Handwerkskunst less apparent. The watch is clearly meant to be appreciated close-up, with the knowledge that the geometric pattern ...

British MCs Stormzy and Dave are crazy for Audemars Piguet Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet It’s no secret Jul 12, 2021

British MCs Stormzy and Dave are crazy for Audemars Piguet

It’s no secret that British rapper Dave loves his timepieces, indeed he’s become a bit of a Time+Tide favourite when it comes to watch spotting. Ahead of his hugely anticipated sophomore album We’re All Alone in This Together, the lyrical genius took to his Instagram stories this week to announce the first single dropping would … ContinuedThe post British MCs Stormzy and Dave are crazy for Audemars Piguet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Canvas for Hokusai SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Canvas Jul 9, 2021

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Canvas for Hokusai

Debuted in 1931, the ubiquitous reversible watch is marking its 90th anniversary this year. Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has rolled out several special editions for the occasion, from a digital hours to the uber Reverso with four faces. But the latest anniversary edition is pared-down in mechanics, but elaborately crafted. JLC turned to its enamel workshop for the Reverso Tribute Enamel, a time-only watch with both the dial and back decorated in grand feu enamel. Most remarkable is the miniature painting on the reverse of the case, which is a miniature version of Kirifuri Waterfall, a 19th century woodblock print by Hokusai, the Japanese artist most famous for The Great Wave off Kanagawa, a print depicting roaring waves with Mount Fuji in the distance (which JLC already put on the back of another Reverso three years ago). Initial thoughts The Reverso Tribute Enamel is a evidently a good looking watch. Simple on the front, looking similar to the standard model, the watch is discreetly captivating, thanks to the green, wavy guilloche dial that evokes the serene motion of the flowing water. And hidden until the case is flipped over is a miniature enamel painting that’s even more outstanding. The brand’s miniature enamelling has long ranked amongst the best in the industry – it was one of the first to establish an in-house enamel studio – and this watch shows that JLC has preserved its prowess. The back is a near-exact recreation of the original woodblock printing by Hokusa...

Pandemic Buying: A Plethora Of Auction Watches Hammering For More Than A Million In 2020 And 2021 – And, Yes, Most Were By Patek Philippe Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Jul 6, 2021

Pandemic Buying: A Plethora Of Auction Watches Hammering For More Than A Million In 2020 And 2021 – And, Yes, Most Were By Patek Philippe

At watch auctions by Phillips, Christie’s, and Sotheby’s held in 2020, the first year of the pandemic, 22 timepieces hammered for more than one million Swiss francs. And to date in 2021, there have been (at least) 13 watches selling for more than one million Swiss francs. Elizabeth Doerr highlights the top auction results of the pandemic era so far, and, yes, Patek Philippe still reigns supreme.

MICRO MONDAYS: The HVD SpectreDiver is a cracking vintage diver for under $400 Time+Tide
Jul 5, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The HVD SpectreDiver is a cracking vintage diver for under $400

I do love a good 38-40mm vintage-infused diver’s watch and, while some have come and gone from my box, they always tickle my fancy. But I also enjoy a touch of bling in my tool watches. Nothing against monochrome sharpness and the pure white print on a matte black dial, but like a watch-addicted magpie, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The HVD SpectreDiver is a cracking vintage diver for under $400 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

If you could only bring one: The 6 best watches to take on holiday for every budget Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Jul 3, 2021

If you could only bring one: The 6 best watches to take on holiday for every budget

Let’s clarify this at the outset. Best is obviously subjective, and if you read my story on how the DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers Limited Edition was the perfect vacation watch for my recent trip to Aruba you may already be familiar with my personal criteria. To recap, I try to only … ContinuedThe post If you could only bring one: The 6 best watches to take on holiday for every budget appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bovet Rolls-Royce Boat Tail: Bespoke His And Hers Unique Timepieces For The Dashboard, Wrist, And Desktop Quill & Pad
Bovet Jun 28, 2021

Bovet Rolls-Royce Boat Tail: Bespoke His And Hers Unique Timepieces For The Dashboard, Wrist, And Desktop

Working very closely with Bovet, the Rolls-Royce Boat Tail comes with two custom-made his and hers watches that can be placed into a special holder in the car to serve as dashboard clocks. For Bovet, this is almost a natural development as these watches feature special versions of the Amadeo case, allowing them to be quickly and easily transformed from wristwatch to pocket watch, pendant, or desk clock. This pairing truly gives new meaning to the word luxury.