Hodinkee
Breaking News: The Rolex Milgauss Is Now Discontinued
No more lightning bolt. One of the brand's core sport models is gone in a flash.
Results for Foudroyante (Lightning Seconds)
980 articles · 113 videos found · page 33 of 37
Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
The MoonSwatch Goes Gold With New Mission To Moonshine
The tumultuous story of the SWATCH x Omega MoonSwatch Speedmaster gets a new chapter today with the release of the MoonSwatch Mission To Moonshine Gold. If you were hoping a second release within this collection would offer greater availability after lessons learned with the initial launch, you’re in for a surprise. This special edition MoonSwatch, which makes use of Omega’s Moonshine gold in the timing seconds hand, will only be available for purchase today, and only in the cities of London, Milan, Zürich and Tokyo. Get ready for more crazy tik-tok videos circulating the internet. At a glance, the latest MoonSwatch appears to closely resemble the existing Mission to the Moon, and indeed that appears to be the base at work here, even depicting the moon on the caseback. There is one striking difference, however, and that is the use of Omega’s proprietary Moonshine gold in a specific component. Moonshine gold is a rather unique alloy, consisting of silver, copper and palladium to achieve a slightly desaturated appearance compared with regular yellow gold, and it’s worked beautifully in some of our favorite high-end Speedmaster releases in recent years. Here, the material is relegated to the timing seconds hand of the chronograph. Making a subtle but noticeable impact on the overall appearance. Use of this material lends not only to the name, Mission to Moonshine Gold, but is also relevant to the cities that were selected to host sales of the watch. Each has a conn...
Time+Tide
AP Social Club Day 2: 40 functions, 23 complications, ONE WATCH?!
New RD#4: Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Universelle boasts 40 functions and 23 complications in one watch. Royal Oak Concept debuts in 43mm size with split-seconds chronograph GMT. New Royal Oak Perpetual Colander Ultra-Thin has a smoky-blue dial exclusive to the model As if yesterday’s announcements had not already satiated our appetite for new Audemars Piguet pieces, … ContinuedThe post AP Social Club Day 2: 40 functions, 23 complications, ONE WATCH?! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The new Hublot Big Bang Zermatt
This is the fourth release of the Hublot Big Bang Zermatt Hublot haven’t used steel in a Hublot Big Bang Zermatt since 2018 The Matterhorn is displayed in the running seconds subdial Between the Hublot-Express cable car, the Hublot-sponsored mountain restaurant of Chez Vrony, and the luscious wooden boutique in the centre of the town, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Hublot Big Bang Zermatt appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: The Grönefeld 1941 Principia Special Edition for Sincere Fine Watches
Grönefeld – managed by brothers Bart and Tim Grönefeld – is a household name in high-end independent watchmaking. The brand, based in the Netherlands, is known for its contemporary design, immaculate finissage and technical complications. For a long while, watches with technical complications such as the tourbillon, remontoire and deadbeat seconds were the only normRead More
Revolution
A Closer Look at the Greubel Forsey Grande Sonnerie
Launched in 2017, the Greubel Forsey Grande Sonnerie is one of the brand’s most complicated and innovative timepieces. Wei takes a closer look at this repeater with a 43.5 x 16.13mm case, 72 hours of power reserve and a hand-finished tourbillon inclined at 25 degrees that completes a full rotation every 24 seconds. Its crisp […]
SJX Watches
Habring2 Introduces the Doppel 38
Habring² has scaled down its signature split-seconds chronograph to create the Doppel 38, which retains all of the key features of the original but in a more compact case. Still having the “bullhead” pusher layout that characterises the split-seconds chronographs of Habring², the Doppel 38 is smaller and thinner than its predecessor, but continues to be powered by the proprietary hand-wound A11R calibre. Initial thoughts Long one of the best values in terms of sub-US$10,000 chronographs, the Doppel is perhaps the archetypal Habring² watch since it’s descended from the complication Mr Habring invented at IWC three decades ago. Now vastly improved and refined by Mr Habring, the Doppel possibly the most accessible split-seconds chronograph on the market – in itself a major point of appeal. But the original Doppel was 42 mm, not massive but large enough to make someone who prefers smaller watches think twice. Personally I thought the larger Doppel was sized well for its particular type of complication, but the Doppel 38 is unexpectedly compact, especially at just 11.5 mm high. Beyond making it more wearable for more people, the new dimensions will no doubt give the Doppel 38 a slightly more retro feel, although the dial styles on offer are thoroughly modern. And it remains affordable as such things go, with a retail price of about US$7,900 before taxes. A value-proposition split-seconds Like many of the recent watches from the brand, the Doppel 38 is simple in sty...
Revolution
Talking Grail Watch 2 at Franck Muller Watchland Part 3
Wei speaks to both CEO Nicholas Rudaz and Head of Design, Jean-Loup Glénat about the third piece for Grail Watch 2: Franck Muller’s ingenious double-sided split-seconds chronograph. We are immensely proud to have partnered with Franck Muller to revive these iconic chronographs to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the brand!
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Petite Aiguille Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Any Of These Finalists Could Win
Two regulators, a chronograph, a Spring Drive classic, a new steel sports watch with a twist on the seconds, and a Nixie tube watch: this is what our peanut gallery must choose a winner from in the Petite Aiguille category, finding the best value under CHF 10,000. A tall order!
SJX Watches
Habring2 Introduces the Erwin ‘THC School Piece’
An Austrian independent watchmaker specialising in honest and appealing watches, Habring² has just unveiled its latest jumping-seconds wristwatch, the Erwin “THC School Piece”. Based on the brand’s signature time-only watch, the School Piece is fitted with a two-tone dial that features familiar elements combined in an unusual manner. It sports ever-popular olive green, but only for the chapter ring that features Breguet numerals. Having a 1930s vibe thanks to the dial, the School Piece was unsurprisingly born of a request by a group of Asian collectors with an eye for vintage wristwatches. Initial thoughts Neither overly vintage nor too modern, the School Piece is arguably just right. The design blends details that are common but manages to do so at a coherent manner, resulting in something different that stands out from most Habring² creations – a feat considering the that most of the brand’s limited runs are vintage-inspired watches. The styling should allow the School Piece will speak to enthusiasts across the collecting spectrum. Vintage-watch enthusiasts will appreciate the hints of the Patek Philippe Calatrava refs. 565 and ref. 570. While those who follow modern watchmaking will like the two-tone dial with a prominent green ring that gives the dial more flair than the typical vintage-style watch. And then there are the Breguet numerals that almost everyone likes. While the School Piece is certainly appealing, there are arguably too many iterations of...
SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces the Luminor Moon Phase for Ladies
A compact take on the signature Panerai watch that made its debut in 2016, the Luminor Due is essentially a scaled-down version of the military-inspired original, which allows it to wear easily on smaller wrists. To date, the Luminor Due has remained minimalist, making do without complications save for a date display. But now Panerai gone for something slightly more elaborate with the Luminor Due Luna that has a small seconds and moon phase display featuring a solid-gold moon disc. Initial thoughts I like the compact size of the Due, as well as its more formal styling that allows it to double as a dress watch. Although the original, full-size Luminor is a clean, almost elegant design, its massive size and stark aesthetics means it can only be a military-style watch. The Due, on the other hand, manages to preserve the outline of the original Luminor while being modestly elegant. For that reason, the new Luna is an appealing watch. At just 38 mm wide, it is clearly more wearable, while the engraved, solid-gold moon gives it a bit of sparkle. And the all-gold model comes along with a mother of pearl dial, making it even more luxe. Interestingly, the Luminor Due is largely targeted at female clientele, but models have a masculine aesthetic. That continues with the Luna, which is available in steel with a metallic blue dial, a combination leaves it looking very much like a conventional men’s watch. The dial design is largely classical Panerai, although the proportions seem a...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Bulgari Puts Record-Thinness Aside In Favor Of Power Reserve With The New Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days
That's 192 hours, or 11,520 minutes, or 691,200 seconds.
WatchAdvice
Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date Hands-on Review
Pros: The blue glacier pattern dial Interchangeable strap – takes seconds to change between a steel bracelet and a rubber strap Bang for buck Divers watch with all the right features Cons: 41 hours of power reserve is too short in today’s standardBetween the bracelet and the rubber strap, the rubber strap wears much nicer on the wrist Some may not appreciate the details on the dial Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 Every watch manufacturer has a timepiece that’s iconic to the brand. The Royal Oaks, Submariners, Daytonas, El Primeros, Navitimers, and Speedmasters are all watches that are well known for their respective brands. Can the new 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date be one of those watches for Montblanc? This new 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date certainly has an element of uniqueness to it. What makes this watch stand out is the new “frozen” dial. When the designers at Montblanc wanted to create a new divers watch, they went for the extreme. While most other watch manufacturers would go to the world’s tropical waters for their diver’s watch inspiration, Montblanc went straight to the glacial lakes of the Mont-Blanc Massif. The designers ascended the Chamonix Valley to the Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice), where they were fascinated by the texture of the glacial ice. The interlocking network of crystals that have been frozen in time for millennia inspired the design of this new 1858 timepiece....
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Rattrapante in Platinum
Launched as part of the “Homage to F.A. Lange” 175th anniversary collection in HoneyGold two years ago, the 1815 Rattrapante was the only one of the trio that was all-new model. In fact, it was the German watchmaker’s first pure-play split-seconds chronograph, and surprisingly svelte by its standards. Though the anniversary edition sold out swiftly, the watch is making a comeback with a platinum case and silver dial. A pleasing and familiar combination most often seen on its simpler models, the silver-and-blue livery is uncommon for Lange chronographs, which tend to have dark-coloured dials, making the new split-seconds unusual. The anniversary 1815 Rattrapante Initial thoughts Essentially variation of the original with different case and dial, the new 1815 Rattrapante is still noteworthy because the original in HoneyGold was limited to only 100 pieces but deserved a broader audience because it was appealing on several levels. The watch is thin and understated, unlike most Lange complications, but nevertheless boasts a movement with the visual depth and impeccable decoration typical of the brand. While the new model has the standard movement decoration instead of a frosted finish, the most obvious difference between the two is on the front. The platinum version has an understated, tone-on-tone look that I prefer over the high-contrast look of the anniversary model. While the all-silver look may seem too simple at a glance, it’s been given a bit of life with red...
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the 44GS 55th Anniversary Specially-Adjusted 9F Quartz
Long a leading player in the arena of high-end quartz watches, Grand Seiko’s flagship offering is the 9F quartz movement that is built with an attention to detail comparable to that of its mechanical calibres. Beyond the almost-artisanal production, 9F movements are all about accuracy – the standard movements are rated to within 10 seconds a year. Now Grand Seiko a limited edition equipped with a specially-adjusted 9F calibre, the Heritage Collection 44GS 55th Anniversary SBGP017 “Blue Clouds”. Signified by the star emblem on the dial, the movement within is regulated to run within five seconds a year – an average of less than a half second deviation a month. Initial thoughts Watches with colourful, textured dials are almost the norm at Grand Seiko, which has rolled out enough limited editions that such watches seem almost more common than their plain dial counterparts. The SBGP017 dial has a familiar texture, so at first glance it seems like yet another Grand Seiko limited edition. But a closer look reveals the fact that the SBGP017 is unusual. For one, it’s quartz. Grand Seiko quartz watches rarely have patterned dials and when they do, the dials typically have motifs made up of repeating symbols. In contrast, the abstract pattern found on the SBGP017 is similar to that found on Grand Seiko’s mechanical and Spring Drive models. Put another way, the SBGP017 is an atypical Grand Seiko limited edition because it’s quartz but has the aesthetic of a me...
SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Debuts the Chronomètre Contemporain II
Having already been revealed as a one-off for Only Watch 2021 – that sold for a record CHF800,000 – the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCCII) has now made it into regular production, albeit as a limited edition. The standard RRCC II is identical to the example made for Only Watch, save for the dial. Inside is the RRCC02, an all-new calibre with twin going trains as well as an independently-driven deadbeat seconds with hacking and zero-reset functions. And the dial is a two-piece affair in fired enamel – black for the platinum model and translucent white for the gold. Initial thoughts With the first edition having become the signature watch of Akrivia, it’s no surprise that the RRCCII continues down the same road in terms of design. But the RRCCII is not just a facelift; it is an entirely new watch. The movement is a new construction in both layout and complications, while none of the case components are interchangeable between the two generations. At the same time, the movement decoration – the most easily observed quality of Akrivia watches – has been refined. It is impressively executed and even exaggerated in some respects. The bevelling on the bridges, for example, is remarkably broad for a relatively thin watch. The degree of technical advancement from the first to second editions is impressive and demonstrates Mr Rexhepi’s pursuit of progress despite his brand’s tremendous success. The RRCC02 is instantly recognisable as a new calibre...
SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces the Minimalist and Affordable Type 8
The latest from Ressence dials back on technical complexity, but preserves the brand’s trademark aesthetic centred on a planetary time display. As a result, the Type 8 is substantially more affordable, while instantly recognisable as a Ressence wristwatch. By doing away with a seconds indicator as well as simplifying the case construction, the Type 8 is priced at CHF12,500, or about US$13,500, making it the most affordable watch in the brand’s catalogue. The next most affordable model, the Type 1, costs about 30% more. Initial thoughts Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens once said to me that he wished he could make his watches more accessible, but that was impossible without more economies of scale. Ressence has evidently inched closer to Benoît’s vision, since the Type 8 looks to be an excellent product in both design and execution, while being affordable, at least relative to the brand’s other watches. It sacrifices nothing in terms of aesthetics – the missing seconds but isn’t overly obvious – while still managing to be a Ressence. In fact, the Type 8 case is entirely different from the brand’s other watches, bringing a new form to the brand’s design language. But it fits right into the catalogue and feels no different from the other watches, illustrating the coherence of the design. Type 8C The inaugural version of the model is the Type 8C, which has a grained blue dial. Minutes are indicated on the full dial, while the hours are shown on an “orbita...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Vasco da Gama
Launched last year but perhaps overshadowed by mega complication like the Vermeer pocket watch and Traditionnelle split-seconds chronograph, the Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Explorers – Vasco da Gama was the latest in Vacheron Constantin’s long-running series of antiquarian-map watches dedicated to noted historical seafarers. The Vasco da Gama, along with its siblings in the series, exemplify the brand’s tagline for 2021 – “Classic with a Twist” – with a case that evokes 1980s design but an enamelled dial and time display that are both quirky and interesting. The Vasco da Gama is one third of the Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Explorers collection. The other two watches that make up the rest of the line up are naturally dedicated to “Great Explorers”, namely Bartolomeu Dias and Pedro Alvarez Cabral, fellow Portuguese sailors who were contemporaries of da Gama. They are each mechanically identical to the Vasco da Gama and differ only in terms of the dial motif. Each of the dials depict the journey of the respective explorer who were professional seamen who charted the world during the Age of Discovery, the period between the 15th and 18th centuries that saw the rise of European empires as their ships roamed the world. The watch outlines the first voyage of da Gama, the first European to reach India by sea. In 1497, he led his fleet of four ships on the two-year journey, setting sail south Lisbon, then around the Cape of Good Hope, and onto to Cali...
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Unveils the Endeavour Total Eclipse
H. Moser & Cie. has teamed up with the menswear store with outposts in Hong Kong and New York for the Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse, a striking creation that utilises the starkness of Vantablack and polished elements on the dial to evoke a solar eclipse. The Endeavour Total Eclipse will be offered in two guises, both cased in steel but with the dial flange, markers, and hands in either matching steel or contrasting red gold. Initial thoughts Being an independent watchmaker that typically does the traditional with a distinct, quirky twist, Moser is clearly being itself with the Endeavour Total Eclipse. The styling is minimalist but different enough to be interesting – the domed hour markers and Breguet-style hands are rarely found on Moser’s watches, save for special runs such as the Bryan Ferry edition. The unusual design is largely thanks to Mark Cho, The Armoury’s co-founder and a dapper dresser with a passion for classically-sized watches with attractive details. His primary requirement for the collaboration was a small(ish) case, explaining its 38 mm diameter that’s substantially more compact than Moser’s typical offerings – doubt good news for enthusiasts who share the same taste. But the highlight is the dial, which is a first for Moser. Thought the brand has used Vantablack in the past, this is the very first time it is combining a Vantablack-coated dial with hour markers. Small but high contrast, the hour markers easily stand out from the b...
Time+Tide
WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: When a watch loses time…
Editor’s Note: “What Tweaks my Tourb” is a recurring series where I reveal the things that irk me within my own watch-collecting journey. Previously I touched on clasp sizing, asymmetrical running seconds registers, and Seiko VK64 mechaquartz movements. This week will be arguably my most pathologically nitpicky yet, but then again I suspect a lot of … ContinuedThe post WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: When a watch loses time… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
J.N. Shapiro Infinity Tantalum: Fractals, Infinity, And Mastery Of Technique
J.N. Shapiro is the eponymous brand of Josh Shapiro, an educator turned watchmaker who specializes in guilloche. His latest watch, the Infinity Tantalum, is a classic three-hander with a small seconds dial designed in the spirit of George Daniels, Breguet, and other greats. The palladium dial is completely hand-guilloche and sports tantalum chapter rings. And, oh, that gorgeous style!
Hodinkee
Magazine Feature: The NBA Shot Clock Has Been Wrong From The Jump
Bad math led us to 24 seconds, an interval that compromises free-flowing play and makes a mockery of horology. Here’s what it should be instead.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Senna Special Edition
Ask any Formula 1 fan who Ayrton Senna was, and the range of emotions they’ll express may leave you perplexed. In the first few seconds, the joy in their eyes may reflect what it felt like to watch one of the most aggressive and talented drivers the sport has ever seen. Eventually, that joy is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Senna Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola”
Francois-Paul Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021, the F.P. Journe FFC Blue, sticks to a familiar template. Like prior watches conceived for the biennial charity auction – the tourbillon of 2015, split-seconds chronograph of 2017, and the Astronomic of 2019 – this year’s timepiece has a tantalum case and blue dial. But FFC Blue is a strikingly unique watch – the five-fingered time display is a first in watchmaking. Though it has a conventional round case, the FFC Blue is conceptually closer to the unconventional Vagabondage watches than the brand’s round watches. Short for Francis Ford Coppola, the FFC Blue originated with a question posed to Mr Journe by the director of The Godfather and Apocalypse Now in 2012. Mr Coppola suggested a watch that indicated the time with human hand. Over the following years Mr Journe worked on the concept, with Mr Coppola suggesting the finger positions to indicate each hour. And now the filmmaker’s idea has been realised as a one-off creation for the charity auction. Though entirely unique compared with F.P. Journe’s other creations, the FFC is powered by the workhorse cal. 1300 of the Octa series Initial thoughts I found the hand-display concept intensely compelling when Mr Journe described it during my visit to Geneva in 2017. In the metal the FFC is equally compelling. It is inventive and appealing. It’s rather large at 42 mm in diameter, though like nearly all F.P. Journe watches it is unusually thin given the c...
Deployant
Just in: First impressions and Live pictures of the new Patek Philippe Ref. 5204R
Review of the new Patek Philippe Ref. 5204R-011 Split-seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar, and present our quick impressions and live photographs.
SJX Watches
Baltic Unveils the MR01 Micro-Rotor
A French brand that specialises in affordable, vintage-inspired watches, Baltic is back with another affordable, vintage-inspired watch. Evidently modelled on gentlemen’s watches of the 1930s, notably the Patek Philippe ref. 96 Calatrava, the MR01 is the brand’s first dress watch. Compact at just 36 mm in diameter, the MR01 is also thin at under 10 mm thanks to the micro-rotor automatic movement within, which is also the reason behind the unusually positioned seconds at seven o’clock. Initial thoughts Baltic has consistently released vintage-inspired watches that are the right combination of design, details, and affordability, which is exactly what the MR01 is all about. It has an aesthetic that instantly brings to mind the Patek Philippe ref. 96, accented with overtly vintage details like the applied numerals and stepped bezel. But its most novel aspect is arguably the movement, which has a micro-rotor, an uncommon feature in watches at this price point, for now. The fit and finish of Baltic’s offerings is good considering the price, which is an affordable US$600 or so for the MR01. That’s possible due to the fact that most of the watch is assembled using components made by Chinese suppliers. Chinese watchmakers themselves produce watches of comparable quality for less money, but most have yet to offer the design and eye for details that Baltic possesses. And that is why Baltic’s watches are value propositions that enjoy with commercial success. Effectively vi...
Time+Tide
Olympic swimmer Kyle Chalmers: “This silver medal means so much more than my gold”
A blink of the eye is usually judged to take one tenth of a second to complete. In the 100m freestyle, Kyle Chalmers missed out on Olympic gold by considerably less than that. Arch-rival Caeleb Dressel of the United States pipped the Aussie swimmer to the finish by just 0.06 seconds. After reviewing the race … ContinuedThe post Olympic swimmer Kyle Chalmers: “This silver medal means so much more than my gold” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante
Czapek extends their Antarctique line with a split seconds chronograph with the mechanism visible from the dial side. Here is the Antarctique Rattrapante.
Time+Tide
US sprinter Noah Lyles opens up about his bronze medal and Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light
The Tokyo Olympics didn’t turn out quite as planned for American sprinter Noah Lyles. The only sprinter in history other than Usain Bolt to run the 200m in under 19.70 seconds four times in their career, the 23-year-old World Champion was pipped in the final by Canadian Andre De Grasse and his team-mate Kenny Bednarek … ContinuedThe post US sprinter Noah Lyles opens up about his bronze medal and Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P Chronograph – Reprise
The first weekend of November 2016 was a big one for GaryG: in addition to attending the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, he collected not one, not two, but three spectacular watches. The watch he left home certain to bring back was one that he had been waiting patiently for since January 2016: the split-seconds chronograph Reference 5370P from Patek Philippe. Here Gary explains why he bought it.