Hodinkee
Hodinkee Insurance Heads To Windup Watch Fair Dallas
Windup returns to Dallas this March-and Hodinkee Insurance will be there all weekend to talk watches, coverage, and everything in between.
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
Introducing – The Matte, Monochromatic Gerald Charles Masterlink Boutique Edition
With the Masterlink Boutique Edition, Gerald Charles aims to reinforce its preference for controlled distribution and direct customer dialogue. Available only through the brand’s boutiques in Geneva and Nagoya, this limited edition follows the earlier Masterlink series. First introduced in 2024, the Masterlink asymmetric case builds on the Maestro design by Gérald Charles Genta, featuring […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: IWC Turns on Dark Mode with the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium
I’m writing this just a few hours jetlagged from an IWC preview in Los Angeles, where I had the chance to see much of what the brand has in store for this year. Now while most of what I saw has to stay under embargo for now, one piece I can talk about is the new Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, and it’s one I feel most watch enthusiasts didn’t see coming. I should admit something up front: the Portugieser line has never been a true favorite of mine. I’ve always thought it was a little too dress-forward and formal. That’s not a criticism, just my own preference. I just typically gravitate toward pieces that feel sportier or more tool-like. Which is exactly why this release surprised me. This is the sportiest Portugieser we’ve seen yet, and it really shifts the tone of a collection that has previously leaned more elegant. The Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium (Ref. IW371631) keeps the familiar 41mm proportions of the modern Chronograph but the case, crown, and pushers are now crafted in Ceratanium, IWC’s proprietary titanium-based material. If you’re not familiar with Ceratanium, IWC developed this material over five years and it is a patented, matte-black material made by firing a special titanium alloy in a kiln, resulting in a scratch-resistant, non-coated surface. Ceratanium has historically felt most at home within IWC’s more tool-like utilitarian watches, particularly in the Pilot’s Watch line. We’re big fans of this material at Worn & W...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Panerai Radiomir Viaggio Nel Tempo Experience Set
When presenting a watch, we often talk about the wearing experience. Yet Panerai chose to expand the experience angle, and over the past few years, it has been transforming ownership into participation through its special program of curated journeys that put collectors inside the brand’s storytelling. The Submersible Chrono Marina Militare PAM01699, Radiomir 8 Giorni […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Best Watches For Women All Budgets - Over 35 Watches Mentioned
A lot of women collectors we know have pieces made for men and unisex pieces. we want to look at watches that are labeled more as women’s pieces by the industry, as we talk about those other watches quite regularly, and want to talk about pieces we don’t highlight as frequently. We are watch enthusiasts, so most of th
Video
Proper Space Watch - IWC VENTURER VERTICAL DRIVE
Hands-on with the new IWC VENTURER VERTICAL DRIVE a watch designed for space.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet’s Latest Gen Perpetual Open-Worked or All-Ceramic
Audemars Piguet (AP) debuts a trio of new perpetuals calendars, led by the first open-worked version of brand’s cutting edge perpetual calendar launched last year with the skeleton cal. 7139 inside the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak. And rounding out the trio is the first all-ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar powered by the cal. 7138. Initial Thoughts The open-worked version of AP’s latest-generation perpetual calendar movement arguably does most justice to a clever movement that is one of the most notable such movements on the market. While there was little visual difference between solid-dial versions of AP’s new perpetual calendars and the preceding versions, the open-worked examples are less similar, at least up close, as the perpetual calendar works are so clearly different. The new open-work dial givers owners a look at what is going on under the hood as they adjust the calendar, which I see as a significant value add given the unusual and innovative mechanics. While AP could have been more daring, the last year’s crop of Royal Oak Perpetuals were good looking watches. The new pair, in both Code 11.59 and Royal Oak formats, look nearly identical from an arms length to their predecessors. The open-worked models are mostly monochrome, the Code 11:59 is rhodium-plated white gold with a black ceramic mid-case while the Royal Oak is titanium with polished Palladium 500 bulk-metallic glass (BMG) accents and rose gold dial furniture. Neither break new ground for the b...
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Converges on Guilloché
Louis Vuitton iterates on last year’s surprise launch with the Tambour Convergence Guilloché. The brand’s unexpectedly elegant take on the montre à guichets now gains an engine-turned decor on its front. Initial thoughts Louis Vuitton (LV) surprised when it unveiled the Convergence last year. Not necessarily the sort of watch one would expect from Louis Vuitton, the Convergence was a strong sign of the brand’s pivot towards in-house manufacturing and more creative high horology. The Convergence was chic and unique, leaning more into the craft of watchmaking, compared to the sportier Tambour on a bracelet. And the LFT MA01.01 inside serves as a good example of what time-only movements inside watches above a certain price point should be like. The Convergence Guilloché builds on the appeal of the original. By using a radial, wavy decoration executed on a hand-operated rose engine, LV has kept the 1930s allure of the Convergence while adding value in terms craftsmanship with the hand-applied engine turning. And the engine turning is not merely an aesthetic feature but also experiential. Guillochage is typically found on dials, shielded behind glass, so the tactile interaction with the rose-cut pattern on the case is certainly interesting. While this is probably not the best idea for wear-resistance, it is beautiful and historical. Guillochage was traditionally meant to be experienced in a tactile manner: pocket watches in the past were often engine turned in or...
Monochrome
Hands-on – Union Glashütte’s Winning Duet of 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Anniversary Editions
One of Johannes Dürrstein’s objectives when he founded Glashütter Uhrenfabrik Union in 1893 was to produce high-quality watches at affordable prices to cater to a broader range of customers. His philosophy of keeping movements simple and cutting down on superlative frills made Dürrstein an early champion of “affordable luxury.” Following the company’s demise in the […]
SJX Watches
Down to the Wire: De Bethune’s In-House Hairsprings
De Bethune plans to bring hairspring production in house, aiming to become one of the very few firms able to process alloy wire into a finished balance hairspring. This requires De Bethune’s new hairspring workshop to master wire drawing, rolling, cutting, heat treatment, and assembly. The rationale? “Externally produced hairsprings meet standards based on averages that do not enable fine adjustment of the dimensions to suit a particular balance wheel or its specific positioning in a calibre,” according to De Bethune. De Bethune’s “flat end curve” mated to a hairspring sourced from a supplier. Initial thoughts As De Bethune explains it, making its own hairsprings will allow the brand to tailor its hairspring to a specific balance or movement. Since its founding in 2002, De Bethune has presented itself as being on the cutting edge of chronometry, debuting a new balance design every year from 2004 to 2010. The brand was also quick to embrace silicon, and even briefly attempted a kilohertz magnetic oscillator system, Résonique. A new year, a new balance. Sometimes two new balances. Given De Bethune’s focus on chronometry, making its own hairsprings seems like a natural next step. However, there is a reason so few brands make their own hairsprings: the process is a difficult and demanding one that benefits greatly from economies of scale. For example, H. Moser & Cie. makes less than 4,000 watches per year, however, its sister company Precision Engineering claims...
Time+Tide
The Fortis Stratoliner Reentry Edition blazes a path with unique energy
We talk a lot about getting up into space and what we do when we're up there, but we never talk about what it takes to get back...The post The Fortis Stratoliner Reentry Edition blazes a path with unique energy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
9 NEW Watches Just Dropped (April 2026)
Welcome to the watch releases update for the second week of April 2026 and the beginning of Watches and Wonders 2026. We have some awesome new watches from Sinn, Tissot, Hamilton, Universal Genève and more. Enjoy the...
Worn & Wound
Breguet Ends a Big Anniversary Year with the Impressive Expérimentale 1
As if winning the top prize at the GPHG were not enough, Breguet has capped off their big 250th anniversary year with the launch of what is surely their most horologically interesting and cutting edge release in years. The Expérimentale 1 is an ambitious foray into contemporary haute horlogerie from a brand that more than most is associated with classicism. It incorporates and merges multiple technologies and advancements into a remarkably cohesive idea that might even have those of us who have always bristled at the controversial Marine collection rethinking its potential. The showstopping feature of the new Expérimentale 1 is the tourbillon, the first ever to beat at 10 Hz. Bregust is quick to remind us that most tourbillons run at a rate of 2.5 Hz, so this represents a dramatic increase and in theory should provide a variety of chronometric benefits, including rate stability over the duration of the power reserve and a better baseline level of accuracy. But it’s not just a high frequency tourbillon. Breguet has also developed and introduced a new magnetic escapement that is designed to provide constant force to the balance. The logic here is fairly straightforward even if the mechanics themselves are, frankly, somewhat difficult wrap your arms around without real watchmaking experience (this, by the way, is essentially my constant of being as I observe similar watchmaking advancements – wide eyed and impressed but quite frequently confused by all the math and ph...
Fratello
Zenith Continues Its Lupin The 3rd Series With The Chronomaster Revival Daisuke Jigen Edition
Talk about releases you didn’t see coming! When Zenith released the third model of the much-praised Lupin the Third series in early 2022, it looked like the remarkable trilogy was complete and the series had concluded. But more than three years later, Zenith surprises us with a fourth model! The new Zenith Chronomaster Revival Daisuke […] Visit Zenith Continues Its Lupin The 3rd Series With The Chronomaster Revival Daisuke Jigen Edition to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
WU25 Panel: A Conversation with Bremont CEO Davide Cerrato
Windup Watch Fair 2025 NYC might be over, but we’re still experiencing the high. One of the most popular aspects of the fair is the live panels, where industry leaders and insiders can share insights and dialogue directly with collectors and enthusiasts. There was no better way to kick off the weekend than with Bremont CEO Davide Cerrato, who graciously sat down with Worn & Wound’s Sam Amis to discuss Cerrato’s unique perspective on the industry and vision for Bremont. There is also an audience Q&A; at the end. Enjoy the full video of the interview below, or read along with the following transcript. The following conversation has been lightly edited for brevity and clarity. Sam Amis: Thanks for being here, Davide. This is going to be fun. Davide Cerrato: Thank you for inviting me. Sam Amis: Let’s start with the classic first question: what’s on your wrist today? Davide Cerrato: Today I’m wearing a very special watch that’s dear to me-a new version of the Terra Nova Jumping Hour. We launched the first version at Watches and Wonders in bronze, limited to 100 pieces. It sold out in two and a half weeks. Now we’re releasing a 904L steel version. It perfectly embodies the bold design direction Bremont is taking. Sam Amis: Love it. If you haven’t seen this watch, it’s on display upstairs. I was admiring the vertical brushing on the dial-it’s beautiful. I’m wearing a Tudor FXD, which I got when my second son was born, so it means a lot to me. I know you...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Stunning New Atelier Wen Inflection
Truth be told, I’ve waited for a long time to talk about the new Atelier Wen Inflection. I first saw the watches this summer in London and again a month later in Geneva. Before we go further, it’s important to note that what you’re going to see represents a major shift for the brand. I’ve […] Visit Hands-On With The Stunning New Atelier Wen Inflection to read the full article.
Monochrome
Portrait – The Manteio Zeus, Self-Taught Watchmaker Alex Goetschi’s Divine Debut
For our latest independent watchmaking discovery, we talk to Alex Goetschi, a young self-taught watchmaker from Switzerland with a very interesting story. Under the name of Manteio, which comes from the Greek word for Oracle, he finds inspiration in Greek mythology. And what better topic for your first watch than the ‘King of the Gods’ […]
Video
New Rolex Releases 2026 Teaser
Rolex has shared another watch teaser showing us what they are launching for 2026 Watches and Wonders.
Worn & Wound
Exaequo Adds New References to their Lineup of Dali Inspired Melting Watches
It’s hard to overstate the impact that Salvador Dalí-and, by extension, the Surrealist movement-had on popular culture. What might now feel like a strange detour in an art history textbook was, in reality, a radical reimagining of what art could be. Dalí’s obsession with the unconscious, symbolism, and dream logic reframed art as a psychological response to culture, rather than just a mirror of it. In doing so, Surrealism paved the way for the Avant-Garde, Pop Art, and the way we think about art today. It’s no surprise, then, that Dalí’s legacy continues to ripple through design and (not to be dramatic here) time itself. Brands have long used his vision as a jumping-off point for their own explorations of time and perception, most notably, of course, through reinterpretations of some of Dali’s most famous works, like his 1931 The Persistence of Memory. The Cartier Crash, with its iconic “melting clock” case, is probably the most famous representation of this style; but it is not the only one. In fact, Exaequo has been producing its own version of a melting watch since 1990, with its latest references, the Polyhedron series, debuting at Time to Watches in Geneva earlier this year. While there will undoubtedly be comparisons between Cartier’s and Exaequo’s two versions of a wobbly little timepiece, there is a marked difference between the two brands’ approach to the same reference source (not least of all the price). For the Polyhedron, Exaequo...
Deployant
Video: New Episode (9) of the Deployant Show: complicated watches
In this video, we answer the newbie question of what are complications in watches, and talk about our personal favourite complications.
SJX Watches
Breguet Reverses Polarity with the Classique 7225
Breguet’s 250th anniversary got off to a good start and the momentum continues with the Classique 7225, another take on one of the brand’s most inventive movements. Guaranteed to run within an impressive one second a day, the Classique 7225 contains the cal. 74SC that boasts a high-frequency balance wheel running at an uncommonly rapid 10 Hz, or 72,000 beats per hour. To achieve that without overwhelming friction, the balance pivot is magnetic, allowing it to “float” as it oscillates. The 10 Hz balance was launched some 15 years ago, but its predecessor, the Classique 7727, did not enjoy particularly attractive aesthetics. The Classique 7225 solves the problem with a striking dial modelled on an important series of tourbillon pocket watches from the early 19th century. To accommodate the dial layout, the cal. 74SC incorporates an additional constant seconds that can be instantaneously reset. Notably, the 7225 is not a limited edition, unlike its compatriot, the Classique 7235 launched at the same time. Initial thoughts The 7225 shows that Breguet’s revival is certainly well underway, stewarded by Gregory Kissling, who has been in the top job for slightly over a year. The 7225 isn’t a major revamp of the 7727, but it is far, far more appealing watch. The magnetic-pivot movement was ingenious at launch, and still is, but the 7727 was under-designed and over-logo’ed. With the 7225, Breguet’s ultra-chronometer finally has visual and tactile appeal. And it keeps...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Bold Colour of the New De Bethune DB28XS Yellow Tones
If you want to talk about an emblematic design of independent watchmaking, then the DB28 should be on the list. Born in 2010, this watch, with its incredible design, would become a working laboratory of innovation for the brand, developing titanium surface treatments and unprecedented materials for the movement. The DB28 and its floating lugs, […]
Worn & Wound
The Incredible New Polymesh Bracelet from Ming
The coolest thing I saw at Geneva Watch Days that I wasn’t allowed to talk about publicly is finally here. This week, Ming introduced a new bracelet concept they’re calling the Polymesh, and with its release it immediately became one of the most interesting products in a catalog full of boundary pushing designs. If you zoom out, what we have here is fairly easy to understand: it’s a 3D printed titanium bracelet. We’re pretty accustomed to 3D printing in watchmaking at this point, with recent releases from Holthinrichs and Apiar serving as recognizable touchpoints for what the technology is currently capable of. As with any other type of manufacturing, there are degrees to the level of quality and complexity depending on how the printing is done and what your goals are, more generally. Of course, in the case of Holtinrichs and Apiar, it’s the cases that are being created using a 3D printing process, and any watch you’d cite as an example has tell-tale signatures that it was made with additive manufacturing, whether that’s a rough finish or angles and shapes that would be otherwise impossible to achieve. A bracelet, though, is a whole other ball of wax. It’s worth pointing out that Holthinrichs has made a 3D printed titanium bracelet in the past, so the idea that Ming has here with the Polymesh isn’t unprecedented. The execution, though, is pretty original. The Polymesh is made up of 1,693 individual components, all held together without the aid of pins o...
Video
Packing for Watches & Wonders + Q&A Chaos 💥
In today's vlog, I'm getting ready for the massive trip to London and Geneva for Watches & Wonders! I show you the watches I'm bringing (including my grandfather's vintage Patek Philippe and a JLC pink gold) and why w...
WatchAdvice
Is The Classic Fusion Black Magic Hublot’s Dark Horse? (Hands-On)
Hublot are an ever-present disruptor of the traditional watch industry, but do the brand’s horological standards ‘walk the talk?’ Let’s find out! What We Love: Tough, light & unobtrusive on-wrist Bold design married with demure aesthetics Surprising variation of finishes and detailing What We Don’t: No lume on a sports watch? Chronograph operation feels tougher than most Movement choice makes for a challenging value proposition Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for Money: 7/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 When I was first introduced to the luxury watch industry and all the wonders it holds, it was an overwhelming experience. This isn’t a ground-breaking revelation – I’m sure many of you shared the same circumstances at one point – but I found myself quickly scrambling for some watch advice, no pun intended. However, since I was the only watch nerd (that I knew of) in my demographic, I naturally navigated online. There, I was told a great many facts and rules. Some of them were good, like “don’t change the date between 9 and 3 o’clock,” or “take the watch off before you adjust the time.” Other bits and pieces, however, were just opinions disguised as fact. “Never buy [this brand],” “only buy [that brand] …” All the typical drivel we roll our eyes at now; I integrated into my own beliefs as a then watch noob. Of course, this also led me to one of the watch community’s biggest discourses: Hublot. From what I saw, th...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Reality of Time, the Return of the Vianney Halter Classic with The Limited Edition UK
Independent watchmaking has always been about mechanics, but also a dialogue between visionaries and collectors who believe in them. For its 10th anniversary, The Limited Edition has chosen to celebrate with a creation that embodies the very spirit of modern artisanal horology. The result is Reality of Time, a collaboration between Pietro Tomajer, Amr Sindi […]
WatchAdvice
Hublot Square Bang Unico Sapphire Hands-On Review
The Hublot Square Bang Unico Sapphire isn’t just a watch. It’s a crystal-clear showcase of bold design and cutting-edge engineering. From the sapphire case to the architectural Unico movement inside, it is a timepiece that redefines transparency and demands attention on the wrist in a way few others can! What We Love Sapphire case is lightweight, transparent and beautifully executed, turninig the watch into a wearable sculpture The Unico 2 (HUB1280 movement) is one of the best chronograph movements in the modern watch market. Despite being 42mm, it wears surprisingly well thanks to the short lugs and rubber strap, and the wrist presence is unparralelled. What We Don’t Circular movement on a square case is visually noticeable in sapphire form, slightly breaking harmony. The transparency of the subdial makes the date harder to read compared to other models in the Square Bang Unico collection. Transparent rubber strap may show ageing or discolouration over time if exposed to strong sunlight. Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value For Money: 9.0/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9.0/10 Build Quality: 9.0/10 Few watches turn heads quite like a sapphire-cased Hublot. With the Square Bang Unico Sapphire, Hublot takes transparency to new heights, transforming the bold square chronograph into a mechanical sculpture of light and precision. A square-shaped chronograph is rare in watchmaking, with the most iconic being the TAG Heuer Monaco. But as we know, with Hublot, they simply refu...
Time+Tide
What is “new” with the latest Snoopy MoonSwatch, the Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold?
Let's just cut to the chase, and talk about what, if anything, is new here...The post What is “new” with the latest Snoopy MoonSwatch, the Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Land-Dweller Review
It's no understatement to say that the Rolex Land-Dweller was the talk of Watches & Wonders 2025, which took place in Geneva a few months ago. A new Rolex collection with an integrated bracelet and a brand new movement? Well, we would expect no less. There is something fundamentally earth-shaking about massive shifts in the Rolex atmosphere. Mixed metaphors aside, just because we have seen Rolex develop and launch an entirely new collection quite recently (with the 1908, released just two years ago, in 2023), it doesn’t make it normal. Before that it was the Sky-Dweller, and years before that, there were variations on the Yacht-Master. The launch of the Land-Dweller proved to be one of those milestone moments. The Land-Dweller is the product of 18 new patents specific to this watch, as Rolex has developed an entirely new watch both inside and out. No, this is not a new complication, but it is a brand-new approach to timekeeping. It marks the first development of a new escapement system at this scale since the arrival of the Co-Axial escapement from Omega some twenty-five ago. In short this is big news. As you likely have seen by now, Teddy and I had the chance to see this watch up close and personal ahead of this year's Watches & Wonders a few months ago (you can find our full video hands-on review on YouTube now) and were also lucky enough to do it prior to a lot of the pre-release noise really reaching peak volume. That is to say, we were able to learn about the mech...
Video
New Rolex Teaser: Oyster Perpetual, Yacht-Master II is BACK?
Rolex have officially released their teaser video: It seems like the 2 tone or even precious metal Oyster Perpetual is HAPPENING. We got the first teaser into the return of the Yacht-MAster II? And so much more.