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Results for Watch Dial Text Conventions

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Hands-On Review With The Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A Ushio Aug 18, 2026

Hands-On Review With The Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver

We go hands-on with the new Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver, and see why this is the watch Grand Seiko fans and watch enthusiasts have been wanting! What We Love The new case size and dimensions That dial, I mean, seriously?! The new bracelet and clasp design What We Don’t The lack of a date window The full titanium construction may not be to everyone’s liking The anti-magnetism could be increased to accommodate modern life Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value For Money: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 This year, Grand Seiko upped the ante and took the fight to the swath of other luxury dive watches on the market with the release of its new Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver, which was released at Watches & Wonders 2026. It was the dive watch Grand Seiko enthusiasts had been wanting and waiting for. A smaller, more wearable diver that was a little more contemporary than the models it replaced. With a raft of changes, including a smaller, better-proportioned case, a redesigned bracelet, new micro-adjustment and a more modern dial aesthetic, the new Ushio 300 Diver ticked so many boxes. Plus, Grand Seiko decided that steel was too heavy for a sports watch, so they made it from High-Intensity Titanium instead. The 2026 Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver models We had the privilege of previewing it before Watches & Wonders, and while the article I wrote up for the Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A 300 Ushio Diver was a ...

Hands-On: Frederique Constant Rebuilds Its Classic Worldtimer From The Ground Up Hodinkee
Frederique Constant Rebuilds Aug 17, 2026

Hands-On: Frederique Constant Rebuilds Its Classic Worldtimer From The Ground Up

I've always had a certain fascination with world timers—for one, it's a practical complication, but mostly because I love watching brands solve the problem of presenting a lot of information—text, numbers, data—and condensing it into a dial that actually works. When it works, it really works. So when I heard Frederique Constant was updating their Classic Worldtimer at Watches and Wonders this year, I was intrigued. The broader market is fascinated with world timers too. If the upper end is any indicator that world timers are trending, look at what the ref. 2523 "South America Map" Patek sold for a few months ago. Couple that with brands exploring different ways into the complication—our own Ben Clymer spent time in Geneva last fall and came back with lavish praise for a world timer from Andersen Genève, calling it the favorite thing he saw on the entire trip. But the big hiccup for me with world timers has always been simple: they're often quite expensive. World time, generally, was historically reserved for a brand's most exclusive references, in precious metals, running mid-five-figure to low-six-figure—only in recent years have brands like Nomos, Omega, Breitling, and IWC started offering steel versions, which dragged the entry point down to the mid-four-figure range. Frederique Constant has been chipping away at that problem for well over a decade now, and with the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture release at Watches and Wonders this year, I think they've crack...

Racing Heritage Reimagined: The Subtly-Charming Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa Fratello
Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Aug 17, 2026

Racing Heritage Reimagined: The Subtly-Charming Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa

The race might have finished, but the watch remains. The Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa also looks good when you’re not behind the wheel of a Mercedes‑Benz 300 SL Gullwing storming the 968 meters-high Raticosa pass in the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines. This Lucent steel chronograph with its eggshell dial is an all-year, all-rounder that looks […] Visit Racing Heritage Reimagined: The Subtly-Charming Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa to read the full article.

IWC Dresses the Big Pilot ProSet IW329603 in Black and Gold for 140 Years of Mercedes-Benz WatchRider
IWC Dresses Aug 14, 2026

IWC Dresses the Big Pilot ProSet IW329603 in Black and Gold for 140 Years of Mercedes-Benz

IWC introduced the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet 140 Years Mercedes-Benz on August 13, 2026. Reference IW329603 is limited to 140 pieces, one for each year since the invention of the automobile in 1886. The anniversary edition combines a 42mm stainless steel case with a black-and-gold dial and IWC’s new ProSet perpetual calendar, which can be corrected both forward and backward. The limited IW329603 combines a 42mm steel case, black dial and gold details. Image: IWC. The dial is the best part I like the design, especially the dial. The glossy black surface gives the four subdials enough visual separation, while the solid gold appliqués and gold-plated hands make the display warmer without making it look gaudy. A white minute track keeps the outer edge clear. The date sits at 3 o’clock, the month at 6, the day at 9 and the Double Moon display at 12. A four-digit year window appears between 7 and 8 o’clock. The angled view shows the solid gold appliqués, gold-plated hands and four calendar subdials. Image: IWC. The brushed and polished steel case is 42mm wide and 14mm thick. It remains a substantial watch, especially on my 6.5-inch wrist, but these dimensions are easier to imagine wearing than the traditional oversized Big Pilot format. A convex sapphire crystal has anti-reflective coating on both sides, while the sapphire caseback carries the first joint Mercedes-Benz logo from 1926, combining the three-pointed star with a laurel wreath. That histori...

Seiko Presage x Tradman’s Bonsai HCC009J1 Turns Pine Into Gold WatchRider
Seiko Presage x Tradman’s Bonsai Aug 12, 2026

Seiko Presage x Tradman’s Bonsai HCC009J1 Turns Pine Into Gold

Seiko has introduced the Presage Classic Series x Tradman’s Bonsai Limited Edition HCC009J1, a new mechanical watch built around the colour and texture of a Japanese pine tree. It is scheduled for release in September 2026 and production is limited to 2,000 pieces worldwide. This is not a simple green-dial version of an existing Presage. The dial, gold-coloured case and included accessories all connect to the bonsai theme. A dial shaped by an old pine tree Tradman’s Bonsai was founded in 2015 with the aim of presenting traditional Japanese bonsai in a modern way. For this collaboration, the main reference is a sanko-matsu pine that is said to be more than 150 years old. The textured Matsuba-iro dial is inspired by the bark and needles of an old Japanese pine. The dial uses a deep green colour called Matsuba-iro, named after pine needles. Its strong pattern is inspired by the rough bark of an old pine tree. Light catches the raised texture from different angles, while the gold hands, applied hour markers and printed text stand clearly against the dark background. There is no date window, so nothing cuts through the pattern. Gold colour without a gold case The 38 mm case and bracelet are made from stainless steel with a gold-coloured hard coating. It is important to be clear that this is not a solid-gold watch. Seiko mixes brushed and polished surfaces across the case and multi-row bracelet, then adds a fine pattern around the bezel for more detail. The case measures 12....

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Titanium SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Titanium Aug 12, 2026

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Titanium

The Greubel Forsey (GF) Balancier 3 topped our summer watch wish list thanks to its uncompromising craftsmanship and ergonomic form factor. Though not an altogether new watch — the model debuted in 2023 — the “baby blue” edition updates the formula with a dimpled finish on the prominent Y-shaped bridge that spans the dial. Initial thoughts Greubel Forsey is one of the few artisanal independent brands that has managed to create a distinctive and compelling sports watch. While the style of the Balancier 3 might be an acquired taste for some — especially those who prefer more of a dial — the quality of make is obvious and the finishing is almost clinical in its perfection. This helps justify the steep cost of entry, even for an ‘entry level’ model like the Balancier 3. The Convexe line grew significantly during former CEO Antonio Calce’s tenure, from late 2020 to early 2024, as the brand prepared to scale. Fortunately, the brand pulled the plug on its growth plan and has subsequently reverted to a more balanced line-up, no pun intended. Beyond the blue colour, the primary element that distinguishes this edition is the dimpled finish of the titanium bridge that supports the hand stack. More than just a finish applied for its own sake, the matte treatment helps break up the monotony of mirror-polished elements on the “dial” and provides enhanced contrast with its own mirror-polished bevels. To achieve this look on titanium, the GF developed a new technique...

Arcanaut Introduces Fordite 2.0, Now Fully Customizable Worn & Wound
Ming Aug 10, 2026

Arcanaut Introduces Fordite 2.0, Now Fully Customizable

Arcanaut, the Scandinavian indie known for their innovation with and unusual use of uncommon dial materials, has announced a major update to their signature watch. The Arc II Fordite, a personal favorite of mine and a watch I’ve proudly owned for a number of years, has been rethought as a bespoke piece, customized by each individual owner in a number of ways. Some of the options available feel like natural evolutions for the line based on a number of things we’ve seen from the brand in recent years across other projects, but a few are genuinely surprising.  When purchasing an Arc II Fordite from Arcanaut directly, the customer is brought to their Fordite Configurator, which first asks for their choice in dial. This, of course, is the heart of a Fordite watch as every dial is inherently unique (they are made from paint drippings from American auto factories). Prospective owners have always been able to choose their dial of course, but the watches have been sold as finished products. The new process centers the dials and the surprising ways they vary in appearance, and asks customers to think about how best to complement it.  The most welcome new development in the new Fordite process is the ability to pick from multiple cases. A total of four options are available, in “Standard” and “Skeleton” varieties, coming in at 40.5mm (the original size) or a new 37mm diameter. A smaller size should be exciting news to many as the 40.5mm case can wear quite a bit larger ...

Introducing: The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour 'Ultimus' Hodinkee
Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Aug 10, 2026

Introducing: The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour 'Ultimus'

What We Know Fears just announced the final chapter of its Brunswick Jump Hour collection, and this appropriately named Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour 'Ultimus' might just be the collection's most interesting execution yet. Designed in collaboration with British watch content creator Andrew Morgan, the Ultimus takes the modern design cues from the Brunswick Jump Hour all the way to eleven, with a stark black-and-white sensibility in a very sleek "Phantom White" dial execution. The focal point is the new jump hour dial, and yes, it's very lumed. Rather than in typical Brunswick Jump Hour executions, which hide all inactive numerals, this dial execution uses sapphire to reveal the oversized hour disc beneath and leans into it as part of the design. A black outer ring holds minimal branding, and within are two luminous ceramic discs—the lower disc is for the rotating (and jumping) hours, and the other disc floats above, housing the printed minute track and the oversized black minute hand. That center lumed ceramic disc above is also connected to a frosted outer ring, which holds the printed minute numerals and offers a subtle peek at the inactive hour numerals on the rest of the dial. At twelve o'clock is a magnifier, which replaces the typical framed window we've seen on the other Brunswick Jump Hours to highlight the current hour and its numeral(s) in full. The steel case is unchanged in this edition, with a diameter of 40.5mm, a thickness of 12.8mm, and a lug-to-lug of 47mm. I...

Hands-On: Laps Leaps into New Territory with the Arche, their First Mechanical Model Worn & Wound
Aug 6, 2026

Hands-On: Laps Leaps into New Territory with the Arche, their First Mechanical Model

What started as a fashion watch brand a decade ago is making a leap into more traditional watchmaking territory. Laps has introduced its first mechanical model, the Arche as part of a new Studio Series. The collection consists of four iterations, two with simple textured dials and two that take on one of classic watchmaking’s key artforms: enamel. The dial is arguably the main focus of nearly all watches. It conveys the most pertinent information and serves as the aesthetic centerpiece. When French designer and art collector Antonin Mercie created Laps in 2016, he took the emphasis on the dial a step further – this would not just be the core focus of the watches but the core focus of the brand. Examples of watches from the Laps “Signature” collection The base of the original Editions models varies slightly but overall carries a vintage aesthetic hailing from the funky eras of 70s and 80s watchmaking. Both the Prima and the Signature cases are rectangular, with the former being slightly smaller and squarer at 28mm by 23mm and the latter slightly larger and more rectangular at 35mm by 26mm. Each is topped off with the option of a leather strap or bracelet whose design is aligned with the retro theme, mimicking a stretch bracelet in texture but presented in a traditional manner with a buckle closure. Powering the models in the Editions series are straightforward, time-only quartz movements. All of this lays the foundation for the star of the show – the dials – whi...

Hot Take: The Singer Reimagined Heritage V72 Now With A Midas Touch Fratello
Singer Aug 6, 2026

Hot Take: The Singer Reimagined Heritage V72 Now With A Midas Touch

Last year, Singer Reimagined surprised us with the Heritage Chronograph Collection with a restored and rebuilt Valjoux 236 movement. This model debuted in both green and black dial colorways, and a very limited run of 10 pieces with a “Terracotta” dial was then shown at Dubai Watch Week. Now, Singer Reimagined unveils its next Heritage […] Visit Hot Take: The Singer Reimagined Heritage V72 Now With A Midas Touch to read the full article.

Seiko And Honda Celebrate The Iconic Motocompo With A New Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition Fratello
Seiko Aug 5, 2026

Seiko And Honda Celebrate The Iconic Motocompo With A New Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition

Seiko has introduced a new limited edition to its Seiko 5 Sports collection in collaboration with Honda, taking inspiration from the iconic Motocompo folding scooter first introduced in 1981. Limited to 8,000 pieces worldwide, the watch incorporates several design elements inspired by the Motocompo, including a vivid yellow dial, a black center section bearing the […] Visit Seiko And Honda Celebrate The Iconic Motocompo With A New Seiko 5 Sports Limited Edition to read the full article.

Seiko Gives the Honda Motocompo Its Own 5 Sports Limited Edition - HDB010 WatchRider
Seiko Gives Aug 4, 2026

Seiko Gives the Honda Motocompo Its Own 5 Sports Limited Edition - HDB010

Seiko has turned one of Honda’s strangest ideas into a watch. The new Seiko 5 Sports Honda Motocompo Limited Edition HDB010 takes the colours and small details of the folding 1980s scooter then places them inside a compact automatic field watch. This is more than a yellow dial with two famous logos. The crown copies a label from the scooter’s fuel control, the strap borrows its loading instructions and the box looks like the carton used to ship the Motocompo. Even the caseback has been turned into a bright red display for the 4R36 movement. A 45-year-old scooter becomes a watch Honda introduced the Motocompo in 1981 alongside the first Honda City. It was a 49cc two-stroke motorcycle created to fit inside the City’s luggage area. The handlebars and footrests folded into its rectangular body, while special systems helped prevent fuel, oil or battery fluid from leaking inside the car. Honda described the idea as a new six-wheel lifestyle, combining a small car with a motorcycle that could be carried in its trunk. The scooter weighed 42kg dry, produced 2.5 horsepower and measured only 1.185 metres long. Its small wheels and box-like panels made it instantly recognisable. Production lasted from 1981 until 1983, yet the Motocompo continued to gain fans long after it disappeared from showrooms. The HDB010 arrives for its 45th anniversary and uses the yellow version of the scooter as its main source of inspiration. A compact Field Series case in Motocompo colours The HDB010 ...

The Arche By Laps Bridges The Gap Between Architecture And Watchmaking Fratello
Aug 4, 2026

The Arche By Laps Bridges The Gap Between Architecture And Watchmaking

When you’re into watches, you sometimes come across new brands on Instagram that spark your interest. The recently introduced Arche by French watch design studio Laps is a great example of this phenomenon. Somehow, the bold case design and asymmetric dial design caught my eye. However, I do not always reach out to these brands […] Visit The Arche By Laps Bridges The Gap Between Architecture And Watchmaking to read the full article.

Casio Adds Dark Blue and Grey to Its Bluetooth ABL-100 Vintage Line WatchRider
Casio Adds Dark Blue Aug 2, 2026

Casio Adds Dark Blue and Grey to Its Bluetooth ABL-100 Vintage Line

Casio has officially added two fresh colours to its connected ABL-100 Vintage line. The ABL-100WE-2A arrives with a dark-blue dial surround, while the ABL-100WE-7A takes the quieter route in grey. Casio’s European pages label the pair as August 2026 releases, and both are already available through the brand’s Spanish online shop. The important point is that the colours are new; the watch and its technology are familiar. New Colours, Familiar Hardware The dark-blue ABL-100WE-2A brings a little more contrast around the positive LCD display, but it remains restrained rather than loud. The grey ABL-100WE-7A blends more closely with the silver-tone case and bracelet. Neither version is trying to reinvent Casio’s rectangular digital formula. They simply make the connected ABL-100 easier to match with different clothes, which is often all a good colour update needs to do. The ABL-100WE-2A introduces a dark-blue dial surround. Image: Casio. The chrome-plated resin case measures 41.6 mm long, 37.9 mm wide and only 8.2 mm thick. Weight is 60 grams, including the stainless-steel multi-row bracelet and adjustable clasp. A resin crystal covers the display. Those compact proportions should sit easily on my 6.5-inch wrist, although I have not handled either watch. Casio describes the model simply as water resistant, without advertising a swimming depth, so this is one retro accessory I would not volunteer for pool duty. A Step Counter Wearing Vintage Clothes An accelerometer record...

Timex Deepwater Meridian 200 Automatic GMT Takes On Seiko’s 5 Sports GMT WatchRider
Seiko s 5 Sports GMT Aug 2, 2026

Timex Deepwater Meridian 200 Automatic GMT Takes On Seiko’s 5 Sports GMT

Timex has given the Deepwater Meridian 200 a new job. The 42mm diver-style watch is now an automatic GMT, with a fourth hand and a bidirectional 24-hour ceramic bezel instead of a conventional elapsed-time scale. The colour references are black TW2Y63900, blue TW2Y64000 and green TW2Y64100. Black is the most restrained choice, blue has a cooler nautical character, and green brings the most personality without turning the watch into a novelty. Each version pairs its dial with a coordinating bezel, so the colour feels deliberate rather than decorative. Announced on 31 July 2026, this is genuinely new rather than a model that has quietly lived on retailers’ shelves for months. The personality is familiar, but the specification changes are enough to make this more than a new colourway. Black TW2Y63900. Image: Timex. Blue TW2Y64000. Image: Timex. Green TW2Y64100. Image: Timex. A diver for someone who avoids deep water I am afraid of deep water but rather fond of diver-style watches, which is a little like loving hiking while avoiding cliffs. I like their neat engineering, their tough appearance, and the fact that I can admire a 200-metre rating without personally testing it anywhere below the shallow end. Timex specifies 200 metres of water resistance, a screw-down crown, screw-on case back and a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. The black dial has luminous hands and markers, a magnified date, and a red GMT hand. The steel case is 42mm across, 14.5mm thick and 48...

Casio Edifice EFB-730: The Best Affordable Panda Chronograph? Owner Review WatchRider
Zenith El Primero A384 Introduced Aug 1, 2026

Casio Edifice EFB-730: The Best Affordable Panda Chronograph? Owner Review

In my opinion, panda watches are probably the most beautiful and classic watch designs ever made, which explains why I own around ten of them. In this article, we are looking at two models from Casio that I own: the Edifice EFB-730D-7AV on a stainless steel bracelet, that has a clean silver dial with black subdials, and the Edifice EFB-730L-7AV on a brown leather strap, but with a more vintage off-white dial and orange accents. And to make this even more interesting I will compare them with my Tudor Black Bay Chrono Panda M79360N-0002. In the following sections, I will cover what I like, what I do not like, or rather what I would like to see in future versions, whether these watches feel premium, and two questions you probably have in mind: why I own both and whether I am going to sell them. Panda Design, Case Size and Comfort The panda dial is clearly the main attraction, but what makes these Casio models stand out from the many affordable panda chronographs is the shape of the case. Instead of using the familiar round design seen on watches such as the Tudor Black Bay Chrono, the EFB-730 has a tonneau shape that immediately reminded me of the legendary Zenith El Primero A384. Introduced in 1969, the A384 combined a distinctive tonneau-shaped case (often referred to as a barrel shape) with a white dial, three black chronograph counters and a date window positioned between four and five o’clock. The modern A384 Revival faithfully recreates that design with a 37 mm tonnea...

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa Returns as a 39mm Glassbox Limited Edition WatchRider
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Jul 30, 2026

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa Returns as a 39mm Glassbox Limited Edition

TAG Heuer, Team Ikuzawa and Bamford Watch Department have reunited for a second watch, but this is much more than a new colour for the 2023 collaboration. Launched on 30 July 2026, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa uses the 39mm Carrera Glassbox case and takes its dial design from the Roadmaster stopwatches used in Japanese motorsport during the 1970s and 1980s. The new reference CBS221M.EB0435 is limited to 150 individually numbered pieces worldwide. Its white-and-red design is easy to recognise, but the smaller case, textured dial, revised movement and unusual presentation set make this a distinctly different watch from its predecessor. All images are courtesy of TAG Heuer. The new 39mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa. Image: TAG Heuer. A second chapter, not a reissue Team Ikuzawa was founded by Tetsu Ikuzawa, one of the most important Japanese racing drivers of his generation. His career included the Japanese Grand Prix, Formula 3, Formula 2, Le Mans and work as a Porsche factory driver. The team became closely linked with a clean red-and-white identity that remains central to the brand today. His daughter, Mai Ikuzawa, has carried that history into a wider creative business covering cars, fashion, photography and design. George Bamford and Bamford Watch Department complete the collaboration, helping translate the graphics of old racing equipment into a modern Carrera. Tetsu Ikuzawa with cars and photographs from his racing career. Image:...

Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Khaki Hodinkee
Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Jul 28, 2026

Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Khaki

Chopard came out of Watches and Wonders this year swinging by simply introducing a new colored dial in the L.U.C. 1860, and perhaps it was a great indicator that sometimes, a show-stealer need not be a new mechanical innovation, but rather a refinement of an already great watch. But I would be remiss not to also talk about another release I loved seeing from the brand this year—also really just a new colorway in a limited run of 250 pieces—that I think has not gotten nearly enough love. The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One ref. 168574-3013, in ceramicized titanium with a khaki green dial, marks a decade since the Time Traveler One's original introduction back in 2016. While the overall design of the worldtimer hasn't really changed, the brand hasn't held back in its use of different colors and metal variations for the model, leading to a varied back catalog for this single watch. This new version, with its combination of matte grey, green, and yellow, stands out quite a bit in Chopard's L.U.C lineup. It's the only L.U.C currently in production with a travel complication, and its understated, slightly rugged look literally contrasts with the generally polished, dressy executions of the other L.U.C models. That industrial vibe is thanks to the all-matte, sandblasted dark grey look of the ceramicized grade 5 titanium used for the 42mm by 12.09mm case, including both crowns—the one at 2 o'clock sets the local time and the date, while the crown at 4 o'clock adjusts the cit...

Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet WatchAdvice
Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet Jul 28, 2026

Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet

The Zenith Defy Extreme Ultraviolet is bold, unapologetically big, and has major wrist presence. And we love it! What We Love The look of the microblasted titanium case with the purple dial and strap The lightweight construction makes it easy to wear The 1/100th second chronograph is a fun complication to play with What We Don’t It is a larger watch that will not fit all wrists The style is not for everyone or everyday wear due to the size, design, and colour The power reserve could be stretched a little more to 60 hours if I’m being picky Overall Rating: 9 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 The Zenith DEFY Extreme is a cool watch, no matter how you look at it. This is the third DEFY Extreme I’ve been able to wear, and every time I put one on my wrist, it just feels right. Yes, it’s not exactly a technical analysis to start a watch review with, but there’s something about these watches that makes me smile. Last year, when I reviewed the DEFY Extreme Diver Shadow, I found it to be a surprisingly easy-wearing watch thanks to the titanium construction and the way Zenith has crafted the case design and bracelet. It wore exceptionally well on the wrist, although slightly smaller at 42.5mm. The Zenith DEFY Extreme models I went hands-on with last year However, I did then spend some time with the DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli with the high-polish two-tone case, which would be the Ultraviolet’s more flamboyant cousin. Agai...

Hands On: FVF Genève FVF2 Openwork SJX Watches
Jul 24, 2026

Hands On: FVF Genève FVF2 Openwork

Watch designer Franc Vila kicked off his comeback with the FVF1 skeleton tourbillon, which he then followed up with the FVF2, a non-tourbillon watch that likewise indicates the time and day. The FVF2 Openwork strips away the dial, giving the watch a more mechanical appearance thanks to the exposed under-dial works, revealing the jumper spring for the retrograde day indicator. The reverse of the Openwork is identical to that of the standard model. The manual-wind movement blends contemporary and traditional elements — the striking, angular design works surprisingly well as a canvas for haute horlogerie finishing. Notably, the FVF2 movement is also its case: the base plate is one with the case middle, an approach FVF describes as a “unibody” architecture. Initial thoughts Because the FVF2 was created by a designer, it has a unique aesthetic that blends many elements and inspirations. The look doesn’t overemphasise any singular influence, making it more interesting than most time-only watches on the market today, many of which converge on the same few historical styles. Even though the FVF2 is a little bit of this and a little bit of that, everything comes together well. The standard FVF2 has a dial, offered in a wide range of materials, while the Openwork version does not. That is essentially the sole distinction between the two, but it makes a big difference in terms of aesthetics. In this sense the Openwork is similar to Roger Smith’s open-dialled watches, especi...

The Seiko Star Time: A 1 of 1 Masterpiece Built to Track One Million Hours WatchRider
Seiko Star Time Jul 23, 2026

The Seiko Star Time: A 1 of 1 Masterpiece Built to Track One Million Hours

When a watch brand celebrates a milestone with a high-profile ambassador, we usually know exactly what to expect: a limited-edition colorway, a signed caseback, and a predictable marketing campaign. But to celebrate 10 years with Los Angeles Dodgers superstar Shohei Ohtani, Seiko threw out the playbook entirely. They didn’t just design a new dial. They spent three years engineering a completely bespoke, 1-of-1 mechanical marvel called the Seiko Star Time. The Inspiration: Shohei Ohtani’s Existential Question The Star Time wasn’t built for a catalog; it was built for Los Angeles Dodgers superstar Shohei Ohtani.   To mark Ohtani’s 10th anniversary as a Seiko brand ambassador, the company set out to build a true piece unique. The concept was sparked by a philosophical question Ohtani himself asked: “How much time do I have left in my baseball career?”   Instead of a traditional chronograph that measures elapsed seconds, Seiko spent three years developing a watch that tracks the steady, relentless accumulation of time.  How Do You Count to a Million? It uses a newly architected in house movement to drive a highly unusual display of five concentric rotating discs. As the discs rotate, the numbers pass beneath a red line on the inner surface of the heavily domed sapphire crystal.  One million hours equates to just over 114 years of continuous tracking. The outer discs move so slowly that their motion is entirely imperceptible to the naked eye. Seiko design...

Hands On: Piaget Polo 79 Sodalite SJX Watches
Piaget Polo 79 Sodalite Jul 22, 2026

Hands On: Piaget Polo 79 Sodalite

The Piaget Polo 79 Sodalite adds five panels of blue semi-precious stone to the brand’s flagship bracelet watch. It is a worthwhile extension of the collection that draws on an authentic Piaget speciality and gives the revived Polo 79 a stronger identity of its own. Initial thoughts Stone dials are now widespread, to the point that any new watch with a mineral dial feels a bit like an exercise in jumping on the bandwagon. But Piaget has been making watches with semiprecious stone dials since the 1960s, and helped establish the category altogether. As a result, the Polo 79 feels authentically Piaget, even though stone dials are now commonplace enough to seem generic. The case dimensions and build quality are unchanged — at 38 mm wide and 7.45 mm high, the Polo 79 remains compact and elegant, while the full white gold case and bracelet give it a heavy, dignified feel. The alternating brushed surfaces and polished gadroons are naturally finished to a high standard, and the rhodium plating will ensure the colour of the 18k white gold stays cool and bright indefinitely, even if it makes later refinishing a little more complicated. The watch is powered by the latest in a long lineage of Piaget micro-rotor calibres that reaches back more than 60 years. It’s still one of the thinnest automatic movements in the world, though it comes up a little short on power reserve by today’s standards, at 44 hours. Otherwise identical to the white gold Polo 79, the sodalite dial adds ab...

Hands-On: The Raymond Weil A.R.T. Date Delivers Sport-Chic Style At An Accessible Price WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil A.R.T Date Delivers Sport-Chic Jul 21, 2026

Hands-On: The Raymond Weil A.R.T. Date Delivers Sport-Chic Style At An Accessible Price

Raymond Weil’s first integrated-bracelet sports watch blends 1970s inspiration with compact proportions and accessible contemporary luxury. What We Love A design inspired by 1970s integrated-bracelet watches Strong variety of colours and finishes Excellent integrated-bracelet option for the price What We Don’t No bracelet micro-adjustment Dial finishing could have more character Movement could offer greater autonomy Overall Rating: 8.4/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Raymond Weil has gone through quite a resurgence over the last couple of years, bringing the brand back into the spotlight and creating watches with genuine substance behind them. The Millésime collection, for example, helped reposition Raymond Weil when it was introduced in 2023, combining vintage-inspired styling with thoughtful design. It also won the Challenge Watch Prize at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, showing just how well received the collection was. Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Review – The Best Colourway Yet? Since then, the brand has continued building on the collection, introducing various complications and aesthetic interpretations to keep it evolving. In fact, I loved the 2025 Millésime Tri-Compax Chronograph so much (see the review above!) that after having it in my hands for just 30 minutes, I placed an order for one! However, Raymond Weil’s resurgence cannot be built on the Millésime collection alone. This ...

Owner’s Review: the Seiko Orange Monster SRP315 Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Ellipse as Jul 20, 2026

Owner’s Review: the Seiko Orange Monster SRP315

What is a summer watch?  It’s a question I ask myself every year around this time. It’s partly rhetorical. We all know, somehow, what a summer watch is. It conjures something in the mind’s eye of a watch enthusiast that is colorful and probably on the sporty side. It looks best when sun drenched, on the beach or a patio or a hiking trail. Or maybe even with brightly glowing dial furniture in a dark movie theater on the hottest summer afternoon, when you just need to be in an air conditioned space for a few hours.  But I also wonder, annually, if this is actually a real thing. Any watch, of course, can be worn in the summer. If it’s summer, and you’re wearing a watch, the transitive property (I think that’s the one) proves you are wearing a summer watch. It could just as easily be a Patek Philippe Ellipse as a Tudor Pelagos, even if you’re bound to sweat through the leather on the former, and even if the latter will never see a running faucet to clean a dirty dish, let alone ocean depths.  Eventually, though, I always come back to the Seiko Orange Monster. Specifically, my Orange Monster, an SRP315. As someone who normally is inclined to minimize the impact of seasonality on a watch, and insist that any watch can be worn anytime of year (they don’t actually know what season it is, after all), the Orange Monster is the one exception, the counter example that makes me question my loosely held summer watch takes. Because, frankly, I have no desire to wear th...

Toledano & Chan Introduces the Breutalist, a Limited Edition for the Horology Club Worn & Wound
Jul 20, 2026

Toledano & Chan Introduces the Breutalist, a Limited Edition for the Horology Club

We’re about half a year removed from the release of Toledano & Chan’s b/1.3r, certainly the brand’s most ambitious release to date with a solid gold dial, subtly updated case construction, and their first “Swiss Made” designation. They’ve followed up that launch with their first collaboration with The Horologly Club, the Hong Kong based watch collecting community (which actually has members all over the world, including T&C; cofounder Alfred Chan), just announced this morning. The new limited edition, which they’ve called the Breutalist, takes on a familiar form with some very specific design codes that fans of the brand will likely welcome. The distinctive shape of Toledano & Chan’s watches have taken inspiration from the former Whitney Museum building, designed by Marcel Breuer, from the very beginning. The building is considered a masterpiece of Brutalism, an architectural discipline often cited as inspiration by watch designers, but rarely actually “getting it” in the way Toledano & Chan does (they ship their watches in concrete presentation boxes, which puts them miles ahead of other so-called Brutalist brands, in my opinion). The design of the iconic windows in that building, specifically, is what lends T&C;’s watches their distinctive, asymmetrical shape, and informs the shape of the crystal, which has become a T&C; calling card.  The idea behind the Breutalist is to be far more straightforward and literal in what it takes from Brutalism and Breu...

Oris Artelier Calibre 113: The 10-Day Powerhouse Built for Business WatchRider
Oris Artelier Calibre 113 Jul 19, 2026

Oris Artelier Calibre 113: The 10-Day Powerhouse Built for Business

When most people hear the name Oris, their minds immediately jump to rugged dive watches like the Aquis or the vintage inspired Divers Sixty-Five. But if you only look at their sports watches, you are missing out on some serious mechanical flexing. Enter the Oris Artelier Calibre 113, a watch that proves this independent Swiss brand knows exactly how to build a highly complex, executive-level timepiece without losing its pragmatic edge. The Dial: A Masterclass in Organized Chaos Packing this much information onto a watch dial is risky. But Oris managed to keep the Artelier Calibre 113 remarkably elegant and legible. If you look at the outer perimeter of the dial, you will see the months of the year paired with weeks numbered 1 through 52. The use of varied textures, like a smooth outer ring for the calendar and a recessed finish for the sub dials, creates depth and prevents the watch from feeling overly busy. Calibre 113 The real star of the show is hidden right inside the name: Calibre 113. This is an in-house, hand-wound movement engineered by Oris that solves one of the biggest annoyances of manual watches, constantly running out of juice. Thanks to a massive, single oversized mainspring barrel, the Calibre 113 packs an astounding 10 day (240 hour) power reserve. Final Thoughts The Oris Artelier Calibre 113 is a testament to what independent watchmaking can achieve when it prioritizes practical utility over sheer tradition. By combining an ultra-long power reserve wi...

Nodus and Raven Collaborate on their Fourth TrailTrekker Worn & Wound
Nodus Jul 16, 2026

Nodus and Raven Collaborate on their Fourth TrailTrekker

Nodus and Raven have collaborated once again for their fourth edition of their popular TrailTrekker watch, a sporty GMT with EDC design codes. This new release is perhaps the most EDC oriented yet, with the prominent use of forged carbon fiber front and center on the dial and bezel, as well as lots of decorative lume. It also represents the first time a TrailTrekker has crossed the thousand dollar mark, but this one feels like it’s a step up in terms of its ambition, and seeing all four on the Nodus website side by side, it’s clear the two brands are building out a product line that can be taken in a number of different directions going forward.  The new TrailTrekker Carbon maintains certain core design elements that Nodus and Raven have always adhered to with these watches. The basic principle is relatively simple: it combines the Nodus Contrail’s sporty case profile with Raven’s dial design (most notably in their Trekker series) that prioritizes legibility and functionality above all else. Each TrailTrekker, including the new Carbon version, also makes use of the Miyota 9075 GMT movement, an easy to operate “true” GMT that is a genuinely great option for travel.  A huge part of the appeal of the original TrailTrekker was its unique bead blasted “Clay” colored case finishing. This new edition appears to have a similar vibe, with a gray DLC treatment over the steel case and bracelet that is just a shade or two lighter than solid black. Nodus and Raven hav...

The Titanium Treatment: Introducing The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler Fratello
Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Jul 15, 2026

The Titanium Treatment: Introducing The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler

Doxa is marking what would have been Clive Cussler’s 95th birthday with a new take on its most emblematic dive watch. The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler keeps the shape of the 1967 Sub 300 but features a case, crown, case back, and even the dial crafted from Grade 5 titanium. This COSC-certified chronometer […] Visit The Titanium Treatment: Introducing The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler to read the full article.

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Obsidian is Volcanic Class SJX Watches
Cartier Santos-Dumont Obsidian Jul 14, 2026

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Obsidian is Volcanic Class

Amongst Cartier’s crowd favourites launched this year is a new take on its elegant aviator’s watch, now upgraded with a mesh-link bracelet. The standout is the Santos-Dumont LM Obsidian that matches the yellow gold case and bracelet with a dial that is actually volcanic glass. This sticks to the classic Santos-Dumont template with a slim case containing an even slimmer Piaget movement, but the dial gives this a distinctly different feel from the conventional versions of the model. And unusually given the dial material, this is regular production. Initial thoughts Even though the original 1904 Santos was conceived as a professional’s “tool” watch of sorts, the modern-day Santos-Dumont is undoubtedly a dress watch, but one with a little flair. The form case and screws on the bezel set it apart from the average dress watch that is usually plain. This takes the design to another level with the bracelet and obsidian dial. The bracelet is a little showy since it is entirely yellow gold, but the links are fine enough that it still feels elegant. Similarly, the dial is high contrast but arguably passes as a dress watch. The case is compact and slim, so this still passes as a dress watch, one that is both ostentatious and elegant. If anything, I would have wished it was one size larger. This, along with the other variants of the Santos-Dumont on a bracelet, is in the “LM”, or “large model”, format. At under 32 mm in diameter, the case size is reminiscent of a vint...

Introducing - The New Speake Marin Ripples Portobello, Inspired by London’s Colourful District Monochrome
Speake-Marin Jul 13, 2026

Introducing - The New Speake Marin Ripples Portobello, Inspired by London’s Colourful District

Speake Marin introduced the Ripples in 2022, and with it, the independent brand entered the crowded luxury sports watch category with its own, slightly eccentric creation. The rounded-square La City case, the strongly textured dial, and the small seconds at 1:30 made it instantly recognisable. Infinity Date, Dune Date, Ripples Skeleton and even a full […]