Two Broke Watch Snobs
Marathon Introduces A New Steel Navigator. But Is It Worth The Price?
A look at the new Marathon Navigator pilot's watch, featuring a fully blasted steel case with a screw-down crown and 100m of water-resistance.
24,630 articles · 226 videos found · page 332 of 829
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A look at the new Marathon Navigator pilot's watch, featuring a fully blasted steel case with a screw-down crown and 100m of water-resistance.
Worn & Wound
Tudor’s recent road is a case study on how to properly revive, or reintroduce a brand to the world. Just in the last 10ish years, we’ve watched them go from a vintage fascination but a contemporary obscurity to one of the leading modern Swiss watch brands. A brand that went from unavailable in the US, to globally reinvigorating and dominating the $3-5k price point. And now, in 2023, they’ve marked another milestone, the opening of their new assembling and testing facility in Le Locle. A massive structure, it houses in a split building with entrances on either side, Tudor and the movement manufacturer they created, Kenissi. Standing on 330, 30-meter tall concrete pillars to reach sturdy bedrock below, the building is 150-meters long, 30-meters high, and consists of 8,050 cubic meters of concrete and 960 tons of metal framing. State of the art in many ways, the project took five years from start to finish, including three for construction, with some transitions and new operations finishing in April of 2023. Airey, with large, automatically tinting glass windows and an intentionally industrial interior veneer, the structure spoke to mid-century architecture, if completed and outfitted with the newest technologies one can expect in a watch-making facility. In many ways, the building suits the products that Tudor currently makes, watches with vintage aesthetic cues, but firmly up-to-date construction. Watches that despite certainly qualifying as luxury timepieces, avoid t...
Time+Tide
The Panerai Radiomir California is their first California dial in a 45mm case. For the first time, Panerai have experimented with a faux-aged PVD case. The green and gilt dial gives the watch a lot of old-world charm thanks to modern techniques. Panerai haven’t been the fastest brand to pick up on new trends historically, … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir California offers a more compact take on their classic dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
When it comes to military watches, my mind draws a bold red line between two distinct types. First, there’s the batch that originates from the vintage kin. You know, the Dirty Dozen field watch, the stoic flieger, and of course the quintessential stainless steel diver. Then there’s the modern and robust digital watch equipped with the innovative case material and a slew of multi-functions that you’d need more than two hands to count. But the happy medium between the two has always been within Luminox, a brand that has fostered and maintained a partnership with the U.S. Navy SEALs for three decades and counting. The latest addition to the Navy SEAL Luminox collection blends together a new case material and their patented Luminox Light Technology, while still keeping the spirit of analog time – it’s called the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic inspired by the Frogmen’s grind, grit, and durability. The Master Carbon SEAL Automatic utilizes a lightweight and rugged case made out of CARBONOX+. This forward-looking material boasts ultra-strong and weatherproof properties that in weight, equates to three times lighter than titanium. The unique feature that comes along with the “+” in the CARBONOX+ name is its stealthy gray tint which also displays the fingerprint-esque carbon fiber pattern that is individual to each watch. Except with the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic, the carbon fiber execution is much more subtle, displaying less of the white swirls we’ve seen in ot...
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko makes the most of their gorgeous cherry blossom-inspired dial, this time in a rose-gold case The SBGY026 will appeal to the smaller-wristed, measuring in at 38.5mm in diameter and just 43.7mm lug-to-lug A manually wound Spring Drive 9R31 movement keeps the watch slim at just a smidge over 10mm It’s safe to say … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom with the Hana-ikada SBGY026 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic is now also available in green and gold PVD. The DS-2 Chronograph is based on the vintage DS-2 Chronolympic reference 8601 800. The green and gold colour scheme perfectly fits the retro tonneau case. Certina’s expansion of their vintage-inspired sports watch catalogue is an exciting prospect for those who … ContinuedThe post The Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic in green and gold is retro chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Whenever a new watch is introduced, there’s usually an aspect of the design that jumps out, whether it’s a stunning dial, unique case architecture, or a gorgeous movement. And sometimes, you find all three in one watch. The new Speake-Marin Ripples Date is that watch. This release remixes the multi-angled razzle-dazzle that you find in … ContinuedThe post Speake-Marin introduces a new date complication to their breathtaking Ripples collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross has expanded their offering of GMT equipped watches at this year’s Watches & Wonders with the BR 03-93 GMT Blue. A GMT complication is perhaps the most natural additional feature for a watch that’s so tied to aviation. The iconic square case shape of the BR 03 is modeled after what you might find on an instrument cluster in an aircraft. For this new reference, Bell & Ross is employing a combination of colors that are not frequently seen together, at least within the Bell & Ross catalog, but they complement each other incredibly well. The story here starts with the dial, which is a gorgeous shade of bright blue with a sunray finish. Bell & Ross tells us they’ve designed the dial with pure functionality in mind, thinking through the complementing colors in terms of legibility. Large Arabic numerals at the cardinal positions combined with big lume filled hands immediately orient the wearer of the watch to the local time at a glance. The oversized red arrow on the GMT hand is also lume filled and meant to be similarly immediately identifiable. As is the custom for Bell & Ross with recent releases, lume has been emphasized and applied liberally across the various dial furniture. Everything on the dial is big and well defined, and one can imagine it would be hard to confuse local for GMT time, and vice-versa. The case is classic Bell & Ross, rendered in stainless steel and measuring 42mm across. Rather than a traditional blue and red bezel, Bell & Ross ...
Revolution
Aviation and dive watch enthusiasts might know Sinn, a cult brand that has a rich history of developing high-accuracy and highly durable utilitarian watches. Among its 2023 debuts was the T50, a 500m water-resistant watch that comes in titanium or Sinn’s alloy called “Goldbronze”, that is awaiting patent. The T50 is 41mm in case size […]
Worn & Wound
Chopard expanded their Alpine Eagle collection in big ways this year, with the introduction of the new high-beat Cadence that gets a full titanium case and bracelet, and they’ve finally given the watch one of their lovely L.U.C calibers. This is the new Alpine Eagle 41XPS featuring the 96.40-L micro-rotor movement. It’s extra thin and extra beautiful as a result, mated to a salmon dial with no date, and a subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock. This isn’t the only new watch to receive this movement, as it can also be found in the stunning L.U.C 1860, which feels a more natural habitat for such a movement, leaving the jump to the Alpine Eagle collection all the more welcome. The Alpine Eagle 41XPS is, as you might have guessed, built in the 41mm case using Chopard’s Lucent Steel A223, an alloy that incorporates a high amount of recycled steel, and is smelted multiple times for increased hardness and brightness. It’s quite lovely in person, though I don’t know I’d be able to place it as something different without that knowledge beforehand. It’s worth noting the Chopard is working to transition more of their steel watches to Lucent steel in the coming years. The 41XPS uses the L.U.C 96.40-L caliber, which itself is a shade over 3mm in thickness allowing for an exceptionally thin case. It’s COSC certified and quite a looker through the exhibition caseback. Its placement within the Alpine Eagle collection pushes this steel watch into a different price realm, at ...
SJX Watches
In 2012, Tudor broke the ground by introducing the Black Bay, a steel dive watch whose attractive design and price point have always offered a value proposition for enthusiasts. Through the years, the format has been updated from its larger 41 mm case down to 39 mm, as seen in the Black Bay 58. Today, the brand has dropped the Black Bay 54 with a new, smaller 37 mm case. While its design is nearly identical to its larger sibling, the reduced size of the new Black Bay makes it more wearable. Initial thoughts The 37 mm size of the new Black Bay 54 really sets it apart – perfect for those who prefer a classic look and slimmer watches. Its sophisticated simplicity makes it appropriate for both genders without sacrificing the utilitarian styling that has made the lineup popular through the years. As is typical for Tudor, the value proposition is outstanding. At CHF3,450 in steel on a rubber strap (and slightly more with its matching bracelet), it is priced competitively against comparable sports watches. The combination of vintage-inspired design, excellent build quality, and affordable price point makes the new Black Bay 54 a winner. Vintage-inspired but in a more compact case While the original Black Bay was 41 mm, the 54 is considerably smaller but wears well on the wrist. It takes inspiration from an earlier diver from Tudor’s history, the Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7922 that was issued primarily to the French and American navies but was later used by civilian tech...
Worn & Wound
This year’s marquee release from Grand Seiko is the all new Tentagraph, an imposing and technically impressive chronograph that makes use of a new high beat caliber and a case shape derived from previous watches in the Evolution 9 Collection. It’s kind of hard to believe, but up until now, Grand Seiko didn’t have a purely mechanical chronograph in their collection. Spring Drive has ruled the day if you need a watch for timing laps, steaks, or anything else, but that changes this year. With the Tentagraph, which carries reference SLGC001, Grand Seiko introduces a new movement, Caliber 9SC5. This movement is notable for its shared architecture and essential technical features with the next-gen 9SA5, the double-impulse escapement caliber introduced by the brand a few years ago. We’ve seen that basic time and date caliber adopted in a variety of excellent watches in the relatively short time it’s been in production, but this is where the fun really starts: we now have a new caliber derived from the 9SA5, which of course would lead anyone following the brand to think that a) we’ll see more chronographs coming from Grand Seiko within the Evolution 9 Collection and b) we’re likely to see more complications. The 9SA5 now takes its place as a halo caliber, with many possibilities ahead when it comes to variations large and small. Like the 9SA5, the 9SC5 beats ten times per second and is powered by two barrels giving it a three day power reserve. That’s with the ...
Time+Tide
The new Tudor Royal models are paired with chocolate brown and salmon dials. There are four case sizes spanning from 28mm to 41mm. Each watch is available with or without diamond hour markers. Any time a design risk is taken, people could turn one way or another. The Tudor Royal is undoubtedly their most visually … ContinuedThe post The new Tudor Royal collection offers refined variation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon has received a sequel, now with a Milano blue dial. The platinum case leans into a sense of stealth wealth, weighing 34% more than 18k gold. A 100m water resistance rating makes this a true platinum sports watch. Parmigiani Fleurier’s launch of the Tonda PF range in 2021 … ContinuedThe post The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon is the epitome of sporty luxury appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech marks a return for the 40mm Radiomir case. The use of Goldtech and a white dial offers a modern and sophisticated take on the vintage-inspired watch. It’s also the thinnest watch in Panerai’s current lineup, at a cuff-friendly 10.15mm. This seems to be the year of the Radiomir for Panerai, … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns with a modern take on vintage style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Fresh off the success of last year’s unexpected Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case”, Cartier continues with the theme but now with an newly developed open-worked movement. Making its debut in three variants, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor underscore Cartier’s commitment to the Santos-Dumont, the model that’s truest to the 1904 watch designed for pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont. Equipped with the cal. 9629 MC that has a plane-shaped rotor, the three references include a pair of regular production models in steel and rose gold, along with a 150-piece limited edition in a striking combination of yellow gold and blue lacquer. Initial Thoughts Cartier been using lacquer to decorate its jewellery, watches, and accessories almost since its founding in 1847. While a first for the brand in the modern-day – and also unique amongst watchmakers – last year’s lacquered Santos-Dumont was modelled on a similar 1920s watch, so it makes sense for the Parisian jeweller to continue with the theme. In this context, the highlight of the Santos-Dumont Skeleton collection is undoubtedly the yellow gold model with navy-blue lacquer inlays. Not only is the lacquer applied to the case and bezel as was the case with last year’s model, but it is applied to the movement bridges. The combination of lacquer, skeleton movement, and a whimsical plane-shaped rotor instantly sets it apart from other Cartier watches, yet it is still easily recognisable as a Cartier creation. This watch ce...
Time+Tide
The new Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski is paired with a gloss black dial for more refined looks. The 41mm case is made from micro-blasted titanium. Richard Orlinski’s polygonal style makes the watch feel quite surreal. It has been six years since Hublot first teamed up with acclaimed sculptor Richard Orlinski, transforming their signature look … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski in multi-faceted micro-blasted titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The Girard-Perregaux Laureato has evolved over the decades but never too far from its original shape and purpose. The design has a timeless touch to it, which makes it look contemporary. These two Aston Martin versions (42 mm and 38 mm) green are an ode to British Racing Green, a color favored by Aston Martin
Worn & Wound
Field watches work particularly well as a blank slate. They are rigorously simple by design, a watch made for pure function and to simply get out of the way of your day to day life. An easily legible dial and a compact case are the only true prerequisites. From there, watch brands have a ton of latitude in how they create a field watch that feels unique to them and will please their customers. There are literally hundreds of traditional field watches to choose from, made by just about every brand you can think of, from Hamilton to Patek Philippe, but I have a soft spot for the oddball interpretations that provide a twist on the norm. The Circula ProTrail isn’t exactly avant-garde or anything, but it’s just a few degrees away from “the standard,” giving it a unique contemporary sensibility among a sea (or a field?) of similar watches that tend to cling to the past. Circula is a German brand with roots dating back to the 1950s, but was effectively relaunched in 2018 by the founder’s grandson, Cornelius Huber. What started with a series of simple German made quartz watches has become a varied collection of precision machined sports watches (for the most part), often in vibrant colors. They put a focus on manufacturing, which is evident in the ProTrail I sampled, and can be easily seen in other watches in their catalog. They’re one of the few brands, for instance, to offer a dive watch in a true super-compressor case. I had the opportunity to sample the ProTrai...
SJX Watches
The long anticipated revival of Urwerk’s first model has finally arrived: the UR-102 “Reloaded” is modelled on the watch Urwerk presented at its debut Basel fair in 1997. The new UR-102 preserves the pebble-like form of the original but with enough tweaks to make it different, most notably with a larger case and revamped time display. The model makes it debut as a box set containing two UR-102s, one in titanium and the other all black. Initial thoughts I was looking forward to Urwerk’s revival of the UR-102. And I’m not disappointed with the result – except for the fact that it’s sold only as a pair. The “Reloaded” version is obviously modelled on the 1997 original, but it’s also clearly a different creation. For one, it’s larger and the time display has been redesigned. Add to that the restyled lugs and repositioned crown and you have a watch that’s very much distinct. In short, the new UR-102 is not a remake but a successful and appealing reinterpretation of the original. Leaving aside its origins, the UR-102 also has intrinsic appeal. It’s a clean, attractive design with sci-fi vibes. But the UR-102 is being sold as a pair – both identical save for the case finish – but subsequent versions will be sold individually, making them more accessible. Coming full circle At 41 mm the UR-102 “Reloaded” is noticeably larger than the 1997 original that was just 38 mm wide. The enlarged case retains the same streamlined outline that was inspired b...
Worn & Wound
Late last year, Urwerk teamed up with artist Cooper Jacoby to create a special one-off version of their original 102 watch from 1997. We brought you live coverage of that watch prior to its auctioning, and wondered if we might see this form return in a fully fledged redesign of the 102, given the full redesign of the case. Today, we receive an answer to that question in the form of this UR102 Reloaded set of watches. The latest 102 gets the same case we saw featured in the one-off that fetched over $400,000 at auction, but misses out on that trick color-changing element that made that one so special. A fair trade off in my book, as I’m just happy to see this case make it into a production reference. The original 102 is an important part of Urwerk history, serving as their first platform and an ultimate proof of concept that’s since evolved in a variety of ways. There are no hands at work here, heck there’s barely even a dial, just a long wandering hour aperture tracing the time across a display arc at the top of the case. It’s simple, elegant, and looks just as fresh today as it did 25 years ago (though the inspiration for this design is much, much older). Indeed, the 102 represents many firsts for the brand, and these are represented within the rotating element of the dial itself, written above the broader celestial themed components. It provides a personal touch to the theme of the watch, without compromising the core themes at work. The disc elements themselves ...
SJX Watches
After more than a year of rumours, LVMH finally confirmed the long expected with its February announcement of the relaunch of Daniel Roth. And now the brand officially debuts its inaugural watch, the Tourbillon Souscription. Modelled on the Daniel Roth tourbillon of 1988, the Tourbillon Souscription is almost a remake of the original from thirty-five years ago. It retains the same styling characterised by a double-ellipse case and one-minute tourbillon at six, but is entirely new in terms of mechanics: inside is a brand-new mechanical movement developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton (LFT). Initial thoughts I got in touch with Daniel Roth and his wife Nicolas after learning of the brand’s revival. They indicated their approval of the project. Their approval will probably have little impact on the new watches since they aren’t involved in the brand’s comeback, but it is certainly good to know. Being a homage to the brand’s origins, the Tourbillon Souscription is a good opening act in its revival. But for the resurrected brand to have longevity and relevance, it would have to do more than remakes; it will have to create new and original products that channel the spirit of the originals, a point I made in my earlier editorial. A Daniel Roth tourbillon from the 1990s The Tourbillon Souscription is clearly inspired by the original watches of the 1990s. It retains the same dimensions and almost all the details, right down to the hobnail guilloche dial. In fact, i...
Time+Tide
Many new releases from Seiko rely on inspiration from the brand’s rich back catalogue, and the case of the new Prospex GMT 1968 Diver’s Re-interpretation follows that trend. Basing their design on the 6159-7001 reference that followed the very first dive watch from Seiko, the 62MAS, the 1968 Diver’s GMT features the 4 o’clock crown, … ContinuedThe post GMTs galore! Seiko introduces the Prospex SPB381, SPB383 and SPB385 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Explorer has a way of sneaking up on you. It’s not all that flashy, has no real complexity to speak of, features slightly strange looking numerals at 3, 6, and 9, and clocks in at a diminutive 36mm in diameter. Yet, it’s a watch that gets under the skin over time and exposure. At least that was the case for the trio of Explorer owners at Worn & Wound. In this collector’s roundtable, Kat Shoulder, Zach Weiss, and Blake Buettner sit down to discuss three different references of the Explorer that have managed to find a spot in each of their collections. Three references that represent two different generations of the Explorer, and two generations that manage to tell two very different stories about where Rolex is, and where they’ve been. Yet, somehow, these watches share an obvious core DNA that binds them. In this video, we find the modern references 124270 (steel), 124273 (steel & gold), and the 114270 (steel) from the early ‘00s. Each has their own unique appeal, and each says something specific about us as collectors. Don’t miss our full review of the Explorer 124270 from back when it’s retail price was $6,450. It’s safe to say the watch made a good enough impression to become a permanent part of the collection. Share your thoughts on these references or the Explorer in general in the comments below or on YouTube, and while you’re there, be sure to subscribe for more content like this. The post [VIDEO] The Rolex Explorer Hits the Collector’s Ro...
SJX Watches
Popular for making artisanal dials affordable, Seiko’s Presage Craftsmanship series has been facelifted for the 110th anniversary of the brand’s first watch. The dials continue to be decorated with techniques ranging from fired enamel to Japanese lacquer, but the Presage case has been refined into an all-new design. The restyled Presage is making its debut as a quartet of limited editions with dials in fired enamel (SPB393), traditional lacquer known as urushi (SPB395), Arita porcelain (SPB397), and translucent Shippo enamel (SPB399). The Shippo enamel dial of the SPB399 Initial thoughts Amongst the most affordable watches with fancy dials, the Presage Craftsmanship series has always been a good value proposition. Made with artisanal techniques typically found on pricier watches, the dials are all impressively executed especially considering the price, which starts at US$1,450 for the enamel dial SPB393 and tops out at US$2,050 for the SPB399 with a Shippo enamel dial. While the dial work was always impressive, earlier models had cases that were simple in form and somewhat chunky. Now Seiko has solved that with a redesigned case that appears thinner and more refined. The new case style makes it debut on this quartet but given its merits will inevitably become standard for future Presage Craftsmanship models. Due to the 6R series movements within, the new case is still large (the larger model is almost 41 mm wide and over 14 mm high) but it has been significantly r...
Hodinkee
Three sizes, two case materials, and one legendary pilot's watch.
Hodinkee
With a new titanium case and bracelet, TAG Heuer has made a great watch for Earth's harshest environments.
Worn & Wound
The Timex Marlin at its core, is a dress watch. I’m referring to the first Marlin that comes to mind when you think of this particular model. You know, the one with the 34mm case, hour numerals using a vintage typeface, and an accompanying faux-gator leather strap. Believe it or not, this style of watch was normally worn during any activity back in its day. From working at the office, right into doing household chores during the weekend. Think Don Draper wearing a similarly styled watch while cutting the lawn. Sure we could do the same, but nowadays there’s just way too many good steel sports watches out there for them to just sit on the sidelines while they watch their dressier watchbox mate get all the wrist time. Timex’s latest iteration of their flagship dress watch aims to fill that void in their current Marlin collection by becoming a bit more sportier via a new-look dial. One look at the Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial could have you mistaken for a refined version of your quintessential Timex field watch, but it is in fact a Marlin. The main reason here is the new set of numerals used to demarcate the hours. The collection of numerals are more sizable, much bolder, and a new typeface all together. The font leans into Sans Serif territory and as a result, the numerals look friendlier and playful, while also being more legible at the same time. The natural boldness of this new typeface accentuates the curves of each numeral, especially the unique looking flat top “4...
Time+Tide
Hanhart’s Pioneer One range is getting even more modern with a black PVD case The almost-iridescent blue dial matches the suede leather strap The dimensions are still large like a traditional flieger at 42mm Heritage can get you far in the watch world, but a brand can’t rest on its laurels forever. The Pioneer 417 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hanhart Pioneer Flieger One NightBlue delivers a contemporary twist on an old favourite appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Casio G-SHOCK “CasiOak” is now available in a Full-Metal yellow gold hued case and bracelet Casio are catching up with the modding community slowly, but with more originality and authenticity Solar charging and Bluetooth connectivity make it an extremely practical watch It may have taken Casio several years to catch up to the modding … ContinuedThe post The Full-Metal G-SHOCK “CasiOak” is now in yellow gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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