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A Fistful of Jade: Windup in a Bay 2026 with Marathon & Prometheus Design Werx Worn & Wound
Ming May 15, 2026

A Fistful of Jade: Windup in a Bay 2026 with Marathon & Prometheus Design Werx

There are few places on earth that feel as mythologized and untamed as California’s Big Sur coastline. The cliffs seem too steep, the Pacific too violent, and the roads too beautiful to be entirely real. It’s the sort of place that attracts a particular kind of person, someone who sees adventure not as spectacle, but as a pursuit. For Windup in a Bay 2026, that pursuit led to Jade Cove. What began years ago as a loose gathering of watch enthusiasts and divers has quietly evolved into one of the most distinctive traditions orbiting the Windup Watch Fair. This year’s expedition, organized with support from Marathon Watch Company and Prometheus Design Werx, brought together divers, military veterans, writers, firefighters, instructors, photographers, and gear obsessives for a weekend that became less about the treasure hunt that it began as, and more about rediscovering why people chase experiences like this in the first place. Windup in a Jade Cove The origins of the “Windup in a ____” concept were humble. When Windup first came to Chicago in 2022, a small group of enthusiasts who had connected online through watches, diving, and social media decided it would be more meaningful to actually spend time together outside the convention hall. What started as an informal Lake Michigan dive jokingly called “Windup in a Lake” gradually evolved into something larger, eventually becoming a recurring series of adventure-focused gatherings tied loosely to Windup events aro...

Hands-on - The Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm 5322G, Technically Impressive, Genuinely Usable Monochrome
Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm 5322G Technically May 15, 2026

Hands-on - The Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm 5322G, Technically Impressive, Genuinely Usable

Over the past few years, Patek Philippe has been continuously reshaping the Calatrava. What was once the ultimate ultra-classical dress watch – well, it still is with the 6196P – has evolved into something more textured, more casual, and, importantly, more practical. References like the 5326 Annual Calendar Travel Time and the 5328 8-Day introduced […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The Rolex Yacht-Master II Fratello
Rolex Yacht-Master II Another Friday May 15, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The Rolex Yacht-Master II

Another Friday, another list. This week, we decided to dive into the world of regatta timers. Rolex’s big introduction this year during Watches and Wonders was the updated Yacht-Master II. In itself, the updated watch proved to be a huge improvement compared to the previous generation of The Crown’s regatta timer. In both usability and […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Alternatives To The Rolex Yacht-Master II to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Tudor Monarch - Are You Down With The New King? Fratello
Tudor Monarch — Are You May 15, 2026

Hands-On With The Tudor Monarch - Are You Down With The New King?

This year is a regal one indeed, as both Tudor and the Rolex Oyster case celebrate their 100th anniversary. For this grandiose occasion, Tudor presented a completely new model during Watches and Wonders 2026 to underline the significance of its century of existence. The Tudor Monarch is a hard-to-define watch, but when you look at […] Visit Hands-On With The Tudor Monarch — Are You Down With The New King? to read the full article.

Hands On: Marco Lang Seven Spheres SJX Watches
Ming ly Swiss — Thomas May 15, 2026

Hands On: Marco Lang Seven Spheres

German independent watchmaker Marco Lang launched the Seven Spheres, the first multi-axis tourbillon wristwatch from Germany, and one of the few made with traditional materials and techniques. While the rotational speed is necessarily gradual, the central position of the massive seven-axis regulator affords a good view of the fine Saxon finishing from all sides. Initial thoughts Multi-axis tourbillons tend to be the domain of industrial brands, or independents that rely on industrial suppliers. It’s also a genre that’s overwhelmingly Swiss — Thomas Prescher is German, but produced his pioneering multi-axis tourbillons in Switzerland. In this context, the Seven Spheres is a departure from the norm in several respects. It’s Marco Lang’s first tourbillon since branching out on his own in 2019, and it’s the first multi-axis tourbillon made in Saxony. Without historical precedent to contend with, Mr Lang has produced something quite unlike any other German watch — a central, multi-axis tourbillon suspended within a donut-shaped movement. Despite its artisanal quality and low-volume production, the Seven Spheres costs no more than an equivalent from a big brand. It’s counterintuitive to suggest that a wristwatch that costs a quarter-million Euros is a good value, but on a comparative basis the pricing makes sense. Seven spheres, front and back Marco Lang cites the work of both Ptolemy and Carl Sagan as inspiration for the Seven Spheres’ architecture. The seven ...

Bringing Hands-On Watchmaking to Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 with DIY Watch Club Worn & Wound
May 14, 2026

Bringing Hands-On Watchmaking to Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 with DIY Watch Club

One of the most memorable additions to Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 wasn’t a new release, a panel discussion, or even a brand activation. It was the twist of tiny screwdrivers, movements clicking into place, and attendees experiencing the satisfaction of building a mechanical watch with their own hands. For the first time ever at a Windup Watch Fair, DIY Watch Club hosted live watchmaking workshops throughout the weekend, giving attendees the opportunity to assemble their own watches from the ground up right on-site at Fort Mason’s Gateway Pavilion. Led by DIY Watch Club founder Quinn Lai and his partner Rebecca Lai, the classes quickly became one of the Fair’s most talked-about experiences, drawing everyone from seasoned enthusiasts curious about the mechanics behind their collections to total newcomers looking for a deeper connection to watchmaking. Each workshop guided participants step-by-step through the process of assembling a functioning mechanical watch, including casing the movement, setting the hands, and completing the final assembly. Participants each built one of DIY’s White Dial Stainless Steel GMT, giving them not only a hands-on introduction to watchmaking, but also a genuinely wearable travel-ready mechanical watch to take home at the end of the session. While some attendees arrived slightly intimidated by the process, the atmosphere in the workshop area quickly became collaborative, energetic, and surprisingly relaxed as participants reali...

Hands-on - A. Lange & Söhne’s Brilliant 1815 Tourbillon In Platinum, Up-Close Monochrome
A. Lange & Sohne May 14, 2026

Hands-on - A. Lange & Söhne’s Brilliant 1815 Tourbillon In Platinum, Up-Close

Ever since its release, A. Lange & Söhne’s superb 1815 Tourbillon is a genuine horological heavyweight. While it might not have the complexity of the Tourbograph or the Triple Split, it certainly carries its weight, and not just by material. This latest edition is refined, elegant, technically impressive and aesthetically beyond words. Dressed in all […]

This Platform Aims To Combat Counterfeiting By Giving Your Watch Its Own DNA Sequence Hodinkee
Breitling as well as May 14, 2026

This Platform Aims To Combat Counterfeiting By Giving Your Watch Its Own DNA Sequence

Year over year, it's becoming increasingly important for luxury brands to back their products with traceability for precious materials like gold and gemstones, both for regulatory and compliance bodies and for conscious consumers. Traceability has become a greater concern with the rise of counterfeiting and the growing demand for transparency in ethical material sourcing. We have seen several watch and jewelry brands taking matters into their own hands by establishing their own traceability programs, from Rolex to Breitling, as well as the entire LVMH group. Here, many brands are relying on the expansion of blockchain technology to create digital passports for their wares. However, one company is taking things even deeper to a forensic level. In 2016, Haelixa started with a mission to streamline traceability within supply chains by developing a patented DNA-based technology to verify product origin and authenticity. "The first application of our DNA markers started at the supply chain level with raw materials," explains Klemens Link, Haelixa's Director of Anti-Counterfeiting and Brand Protection. "We began with textiles but have since expanded into precious metals as well as gemstones. We can apply our DNA-based nanoparticles to rough stones directly at the mine or to rough gold directly at the refinery." On the other end of the spectrum, Haelixa can also implement its technology beyond raw materials and directly to finished goods. "Here, the value proposition is different...

Seiko Introduces new Astrons, Including a Limited Edition, for their 145th Anniversary Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces new Astrons Including May 14, 2026

Seiko Introduces new Astrons, Including a Limited Edition, for their 145th Anniversary

This year marks the 145th anniversary of Seiko, and while 145 isn’t exactly the most notable round number anniversary, it’s still, well, a very long time. And as we’ve mentioned countless times in these pages, the watch industry simply doesn’t let an anniversary year go to waste. Seiko has just announced a new collection of watches in the Astron line to mark the occasion, because of course it makes a lot of sense to commemorate longevity and a proud history with the most modern contemporary line in the catalog. Right?  Kidding aside, the Astron holds a special place in the Seiko collection for a few reasons. It was the name of the brand’s very first quartz watch, famously introduced on Christmas Day in 1969. It was a watch, and a technology, that not only changed the company, but the watch industry altogether. It ushered in the Quartz Crisis across most of the watchmaking world, except of course in Japan, which rose to a level of prominence in watchmaking as a result of quartz.  Today, the Astron is special as it is reserved for the most newfangled Seiko technology available, very much in keeping with the tradition inherent in its name. That means, primarily, tech forward GPS enabled timekeeping, as well as the use of Seiko’s solar technology. Astron watches typically inhabit a very contemporary design language, which tends toward sporty, angular, and often oversized.  The anniversary watch introduced this week is the new GPS Solar Dual Time Chronograph, ref...

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The 152nd Kentucky Derby Hodinkee
Longines has been May 14, 2026

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The 152nd Kentucky Derby

Each spring for the last 152 years, 20 of the fastest horses in the country line up to run at legendary Churchill Downs racetrack in Louisville, Kentucky. In the two minutes that follow, the world holds its breath, watching as history unfolds. For the past 15 years, Swiss watchmaker Longines has been the official timekeeper of the Kentucky Derby and, in 2013, became the title sponsor of the Kentucky Oaks, which takes place the day before. It's a weekend of splendor that has transcended the equestrian world, becoming the social event of the season. Longines Spirit Pilot Flyback Chronograph and Primaluna Moonphase. Longines' legacy in the equestrian world predates the derby itself, with the brand producing pocket watches and chronographs featuring equestrian motifs as early as 1869. Their chronographs were later utilized by racecourses towards the end of the 1800s. From there, Longines has been involved in nearly every aspect of competitive horsemanship throughout the 20th and now into the 21st century, from flat racing to Show Jumping, Dressage, and Eventing, serving as the official timekeeper and sponsor of some of the most prestigious competitions in the world. Georgia Benjamin's (@Georgiabenj) watch dial themed hat for the Kentucky Oaks. The Kentucky Derby, which this year boasted its highest viewership in history with nearly 20 million viewers, has been held at the historic Churchill Downs racetrack since its inception. There have been many historic races over the past ...

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Paul Pessagno Worn & Wound
May 14, 2026

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition - Paul Pessagno

After a bit of a break, 3 for $5k is back! The reader edition of this series has always been a favorite, as it allows Worn & Wound’s audience to chime in on the watches they own, or would buy, with a hypothetical $5,000 budget. The fun with these is always in the approach, and today we have a unique spin from reader Paul Pessagno. His Instagram handle is @bigwristwatchguy, which should give you an idea of his perspective on collecting. With a nearly 9 inch wrist, Paul sought out watches for this exercise that look appropriate on a big wrist, but still represent a balanced collecting philosophy.  Let us know what you think of Paul’s picks in the comments below, and stay tuned for future editions of The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition. The modern watch industry has a clear darling right now, the 38mm to 40mm “sweet spot.” Brands are downsizing across the board, digging into their archives, and championing historically accurate, compact proportions. But having an 8.85 inch wrist fundamentally changes how a timepiece wears. When you fall outside the industry average, those celebrated mid-century dimensions can easily end up looking less like a serious horological instrument and more like a vintage toy.   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Paul Pessagno (@bigwristwatchguy) Building a versatile three watch rotation presents a unique challenge for the larger wristed collector. A great collection isn’t just about stubbornly picking the bi...

Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 Recap: Our Biggest Bay Area Weekend Yet Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant May 13, 2026

Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 Recap: Our Biggest Bay Area Weekend Yet

If there was any doubt that Windup Watch Fair San Francisco had evolved into something far bigger than a traditional watch show, this past weekend erased it completely. Over three unforgettable days at Fort Mason’s Gateway Pavilion, over 7,000 enthusiasts, collectors, first-timers, industry veterans, and curious passersby packed the waterfront for what became our most ambitious and experiential Windup San Francisco to date. Watches were still the heart of it all, of course, but this year the Fair expanded in every direction imaginable: panels, parties, padel, live art, whisky tastings, DIY watchmaking, EV Broncos, giveaways, podcast recordings, and more all combined into a weekend that felt less like a trade show and more like a full-scale enthusiast festival. None of this would have been possible without the support of our incredible Lead Sponsors: Bremont, Brew, Christopher Ward, Frederique Constant, and Oris, all of whom helped bring new energy, new releases, and memorable experiences to this year’s Fair. From Bremont’s rugged space-watch presence to Christopher Ward’s endlessly crowd-drawing Bel Canto conversations, from Frederique Constant’s padel panel and activation to Brew’s playful industrial design language, and not to mention Oris celebrating 60 years of mechanical freedom—each Lead Sponsor helped define the personality of the weekend in a different way. The show floor itself was nonstop from open to close every day. Approximately 90 brands from ar...

Hands-On: The Quietly Launched Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco Cocktail” Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or May 13, 2026

Hands-On: The Quietly Launched Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco Cocktail”

Last year's launch of a new Reverso Tribute Monoface "Or Deco" in pink gold (with a gorgeous Milanese mesh bracelet) was probably the most outstanding release from Jaeger-LeCoultre in a while. Its time in the sun was somewhat brief, though, as it was a bit upstaged this year by the new Master Control Chronometre line (for which a Hands-On is forthcoming soon, I promise). Yet, at Watches and Wonders last month, the brand showed it could do more with the "Or Deco" platform, introducing three new Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds "Or Deco Cocktail" watches, including two in a new material. Last year's release is still a stunner. You may have missed these new watches. That's in part because the brand is set to make a more complete announcement in a few weeks, with an immersive pop-up of its "Reverso Stories" series from May 21 to May 31 in the Miami Design District, ahead of the opening of a new boutique there this summer. The idea is to focus on rare pieces, including historic high-jewelry models, and to premiere some new Reverso pieces that play into that concept, including this trio. However, before the watches were shipped to South Beach, we got to see them in New York and get to spill the tea, as the kids say, before their Miami feature debut.  The standouts, at least in terms of novelty, are the two new white-gold versions. The framework remains the same, a 45.6 x 27.4 x 7.56mm case, now in white gold, housing a manually wound Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 822 movement....

First Look - The Orient Star M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding, a Dark, Compact Openworked Watch Monochrome
Orient May 13, 2026

First Look - The Orient Star M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding, a Dark, Compact Openworked Watch

Skeleton watches are clearly a big part of Orient Star. Between the sporty Avant-Garde Skeleton, the more refined Orient Star Skeleton in the brand’s Contemporary Collection, and now this new Orient Star M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding created for the brand’s 75th anniversary, the Japanese brand has built a broad range of openworked watches over […]

The Business of Watches Podcast: Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito Hodinkee
Grand Seiko May 13, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito

This week on The Business of Watches, we sit down with Akio Naito, the President of Seiko Watch Corporation. Seiko's Credor brand, the ultra-premium offering showcasing artisanal creations, unique craftsmanship, and design, made its Watches and Wonders debut this year. We discuss Credor's positioning within the Seiko Group and its expansion into international markets. Photo credit: Mark Kauzlarich The biggest challenge for Credor, Naito says, will be increasing production for more markets, as the skills required to produce the timepieces are highly specialized and take years to master. We also get an update on Grand Seiko. Naito says the brand has increased its international sales by more than 15x over the past decade, driven largely by success in the U.S. market. Grand Seiko is continuing to update and improve its offerings, including a new ultra-accurate and ultra-luxurious dive watch in a more compact size that clients have been asking for. We also hear about the growing interest and awareness of Grand Seiko's class-leading 9F quartz movement technology, which is increasingly popular with some clients. But first, Hodinkee Senior Editor Mark Kauzlarich drops in for a fresh analysis on some of the record watch auction results from the spring sessions in Geneva. Pocket watches were hot, Journe was surging, and Patek showed continued strength with a record result for a rare Patek 2523. So what isn't hot right now? Tune in to find out.  There's plenty of watch business and...

Introducing - H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Small Seconds Lime Green Enamel Boutique Edition Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Small May 13, 2026

Introducing - H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Small Seconds Lime Green Enamel Boutique Edition

The Streamliner collection by indie brand H. Moser & Cie. debuted in 2020 and immediately established the series as one of the distinctive alternatives in the integrated-bracelet sports watch category. Its fluid, almost organic lines were a nice departure from conventional luxury-sports-watch design codes. In 2023, the Streamliner Small Seconds refined the concept by introducing […]

Introducing - The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph 40mm, Now in Rose Gold Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph 40mm May 13, 2026

Introducing - The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph 40mm, Now in Rose Gold

Parmigiani Fleurier’s luxury sports watch collection, the Tonda PF, got off to a flying start with the release of not one but two chronographs in its inaugural 2021 lineup. Led by the refined Split Seconds in platinum and the high-frequency COSC-certified integrated manufacture movement powering the steel Tonda PF Chronograph, the collection may be understated […]

Introducing: The Skeletonized Panerai Submersible GMT PAM01495 Fratello
Panerai Submersible GMT PAM01495 If May 13, 2026

Introducing: The Skeletonized Panerai Submersible GMT PAM01495

If you don’t shy away from a bold, technical statement piece, the new Panerai Submersible GMT PAM01495 might just be for you. It combines a skeletonized GMT movement with a 47mm titanium DMLS case and a 500m depth rating. It does so in typical Panerai style, with a lively sense of drama. Panerai tends to […] Visit Introducing: The Skeletonized Panerai Submersible GMT PAM01495 to read the full article.