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Ressence Introduces the Type 5X Automobili Amos SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces Oct 30, 2020

Ressence Introduces the Type 5X Automobili Amos

Conceived to mark the brand’s 10th anniversary, the “X” series of watches is a quartet of models that started with the Type 1 Slim X, and now continues with the brand-new Type 5X Automobili Amos. Equipped with a bezel to measure turbocharged engine warming and cooling times, the Type 5X is the result of a collaboration between Ressence and Italian race-car driver Eugenio Amos. Husband to a member of the Missoni fashion dynasty, Mr Amos’ namesake company is best known for the Lancia Delta Futurista “restomod”, a race car based on the 1980s Lancia Delta, a car famous for dominating the World Rally Championship in the late 1980s. The concept is similar to what Singer Vehicle Design is doing for the Porsche 911 (specifically the 964 of the early 1990s); Singer, as it happens, has its own line of wristwatches. Initial thoughts The Type 5X is a good-looking variation of the standard Type 5. The tweaks to the typography, colours, and bezel are attractive. But it has a narrow appeal, basically car enthusiasts who appreciate the history of the Lancia Delta and that era of automobile racing. Because it costs not much more than the standard model, the Type 5X is probably a no brainer for anyone who does appreciate that history. But for anyone else it is a bit too esoteric. The Lancia Delta Futurista More broadly, the strengths and weaknesses of the Type 5X are the same as those of the standard model. The watch is ingenious, inventive, and truly unique, while possessing e...

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox is an alarmingly different type of Polaris Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox Oct 1, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox is an alarmingly different type of Polaris

Although it’s never really taken off as an uber-popular complication like a chronograph or moonphase, the alarm function of JLC’s Memovox watches has, since they were first unveiled in 1968, been exceedingly practical. But it’s a complication that’s usually been found in the watchmaker’s daintier, and perhaps less practical, dress watches. This has meant that … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox is an alarmingly different type of Polaris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ressence Introduces the Type 1 Slim X SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces Jul 7, 2020

Ressence Introduces the Type 1 Slim X

Founded only a decade ago, Ressence has already left an indelible impression on watchmaking. Lauded for a design philosophy that is centred on legibility, wearability and intuitive function, the brand’s unusual perspective is thanks to its founder Benoît Mintiens, an industrial designer by profession. To mark its 10th year, Ressence has debuted the Type 1 Slim X, the first of four watches in the commemorative Collection X – “X” being a Roman “10”. Limited to 40 watches, the new watch is essentially identical to the standard Type 1 Slim, but face-lifted with an intriguing dial in a single shade of olive green but finished with contrasting surfaces to achieve a two-tone effect. The remaining Collection X watches will be dressed in a similar shade of green. Initial thoughts I have long been fascinated by Ressence and its watches. The first time I laid eyes on a Ressence, I assumed that it was just an electronic watch with a high-pixel density display; the dial on it was truly flat. When I found out what it was – the effect was due to the oil-filled time display chamber – surprise was an understatement. They are in a class of their own in terms of design, and are, in fact, great examples of “postmodern” mechanical watchmaking. The dark olive dial on the anniversary Type 1 Slim is a first for the brand. The colour is attractive but not as widely used as I would like, with the exception of military-style timepieces, which this is definitely not. To see i...

Zenith Introduces the Pilot Type 20 Rescue SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jan 14, 2020

Zenith Introduces the Pilot Type 20 Rescue

Inspired by early 20th century aviator’s watches, Zenith’s Pilot Type 20 collection gets new two versions at LVMH Watch Week. Available mostly in heavily retro guises, including in bronze or aged steel, the new pilot watches take a different tack. The Pilot Type 20 Rescue and Type 20 Rescue Chronograph are devoid of retro affectations, and are kept simple with steel cases and dark grey dials. Measuring 45 mm wide, both watches feature a brushed case band with a polished bezel as well as a polished, onion-shaped crown. Instead of the usual grained dials, they have slate-grey, sun ray-brushed dials that are accented with bolts of yellow, giving them a more modern look. As with the rest of the collection, the dials are characterised by cathedral-style hands and large applied Gothic numerals that are moulded from SuperLuminova. Powering the Pilot Type 20 Rescue is the Elite 679, an in-house, workhorse automatic movement with a 50 hour-power reserve, while the Pilot Type 20 Rescue Chronograph is equipped with the El Primero 4069, which is a variant of the El Primero 400 that lacks a date and an hour totaliser. The only element that’s “faux” patina is the distressed calfskin leather strap that was inspired by shearling flight jackets and helmets. Key facts and price Pilot Type 20 Rescue Ref. 03.2434.679/20.I010 Case diameter: 45mm Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 100m Movement: Elite 679 Functions: Hours, minutes and seconds Frequency: 28,800 beats p...

Ressence Introduces the Type 1DXB Dubai Edition SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces Nov 22, 2019

Ressence Introduces the Type 1DXB Dubai Edition

Created for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the largest watch retailer in the Middle East, to mark Dubai Watch Week 2019, the Type 1DXB is an unusual twist on the typically minimalist Ressence design. Though the watch retains the brand’s signature orbital disc time display, the dial has been skeletonised in a geometric motif inspired by traditional patterns found in Arabic and Islamic culture. Unlike most watches made for the Middle East that sport Eastern Arabic numerals, this is is literally an Arabic dial. The dial is sand-coloured and finishes with a matte, granular surface, matched with white Super-Luminova. Visible through the dial are the gears that drive the unusual time display, all contained within a proprietary Ressence module sitting on top of an ETA 2892 base moment. The 41mm case is square in form, identical to that of the Type 1 Squared. But it is made of titanium, instead of steel as is standard for the Type 1 Squared. And as is standard for Ressence, time setting and winding is done via the case back, hence the lack of a crown. The Type 1DXB is limited to 19 watches, available only at Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. Key facts and price Type 1DXB Case diameter: 41mm Height: 11mm Material: Titanium Water resistance: 10m Movement: ROCS 1 (base ETA 2892) Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day of the week Frequency: 28,800 (4Hz) Winding: Automatic Power reserve: 36 hours Strap: Calfskin with titanium buckle Limited edition: 19 pieces Availability: Only at Ahmed Sedd...

Hands-On: Longines Avigation Type A-7 “The Hour Glass” in Bronze SJX Watches
Montblanc 1858 chronograph which develops Nov 6, 2019

Hands-On: Longines Avigation Type A-7 “The Hour Glass” in Bronze

Following the launch of the Sinn 356 Pilot Chronograph limited edition to mark the 40th anniversary of The Hour Glass, the retailer has just announced yet another pilot’s chronograph, but this time, one that is more unusual and striking, the Longines Avigation Type A-7 1935 in bronze. Characterised by an askew dial and movement, the Type A-7 “The Hour Glass” is based on the second-generation, 2016 reissue of the chronograph Longines supplied to the US Army Air Corps in the 1930s that was known as the “Type A-7”. Striking colourways Though the distinctive case style is retained, the commemorative edition is made even more unusual by an attractive material and colour combination. The case is bronze and paired with either a blue or champagne dial finished with a metallic, sun ray-brushed finish. While bronze might seem a bit too fashionable, especially in this price segment, it’s surprisingly uncommon for Longines. In fact, the new Type A-7 is only the second Longines watch to have a bronze case; the first was the Heritage Military Kuwait limited edition. The case is made of phosphor bronze (CuSn8), an alloy that is 92% copper and 8% tin. In contrast to the aluminium-bronze alloys, used in watches like the Tudor Black Bay Bronze or Montblanc 1858 chronograph, which develops a brownish patina, phosphor bronze has a more reddish tone and develops a blue-green, sunken-treasure oxidisation over time. While the vintage Type A-7 was a 51mm diameter cockpit instrumen...

EDITOR’S PICK: The other side of Breguet – the Type XXI 3817 Time+Tide
Breguet May 17, 2018

EDITOR’S PICK: The other side of Breguet – the Type XXI 3817

Editor’s Note: It’s easy (too easy, really) to pigeonhole a brand, often unfairly. For me, my first association with Breguet was all fluted cases, engine-turned dials and precious metal cases. To be fair, the brand does all those things exceptionally well, but you know what else they do pretty darned well? Steel sports watches, like … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: The other side of Breguet – the Type XXI 3817 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INSIGHT: Designing A. Lange & Söhne – part 3, the tone of type Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Feb 4, 2018

INSIGHT: Designing A. Lange & Söhne – part 3, the tone of type

Typography matters. The choice of font or type is a more complicated matter than merely the arrangement of letters used and the order in which they appear. It’s something designers and branding specialists know only too well: the sub-textual information communicated through the subtle language of serif, weight and kerning. Take the word ‘apple’, for … ContinuedThe post INSIGHT: Designing A. Lange & Söhne – part 3, the tone of type appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 9 – The Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Chronograph Desert Type Time+Tide
Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Chronograph Desert Dec 8, 2016

ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 9 – The Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Chronograph Desert Type

You don’t often see pics of Santa in the desert. But if you did, and if he’d put an appropriate amount of thought into his watch choice, you’d see either an IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII Top Gun Miramar or this Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Chronograph Desert Type on his wrist. Both have that … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 9 – The Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Chronograph Desert Type appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Highlights Some Luxurious Bracelets with their Watches & Wonders Releases Worn & Wound
Cartier Highlights Some Luxurious Bracelets Apr 28, 2026

Cartier Highlights Some Luxurious Bracelets with their Watches & Wonders Releases

The Cartier appointment at Watches & Wonders this year was, as always, a dizzying experience. The incredible breadth of the collection is unlike anything you’ll see at Palexpo during Watches & Wonders week, and it always amazes me how freely these incredibly valuable, intricate creations are freely passed around a table of watch media types to handle, photograph, and try on. It would be absolutely impossible to run down everything we were shown in our meeting, but I keep coming back to a selection of releases that zero in on Cartier’s unique bracelet making capabilities.  This is not something I normally expect from Cartier, but maybe I should. I think for the most part we recognize Cartier as masters of design and shape – there have been so many great case designs over the brand’s history it’s impossible to recount them all here. Some have become genuinely iconic and some have been a bit lost to history, but their ingenuity and creativity is second to none and they have the reputation they deserve as a design first brand for good reason.  In our mind’s eye, collectively, we typically see these watches on straps. But for certain references a bracelet is key to understanding not just the visual design language, but in how these watches wear. Because a great bracelet doesn’t complete the look of a watch, it makes or breaks the experience of having it on your wrist, and can take a watch from being a beautiful design object to something you’d actually want to...