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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

WATCHES & WONDERS: Hublot hit a purple patch and release a brand new case shape Time+Tide
Hublot hit Mar 30, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS: Hublot hit a purple patch and release a brand new case shape

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders means a bombardment of fresh releases, so we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the week for deeper coverage, some of which will include live pics and our hands-on perspective. But for … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: Hublot hit a purple patch and release a brand new case shape appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The William Wood Triumph collection is a set of chronographs ready to catch fire Time+Tide
Feb 28, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The William Wood Triumph collection is a set of chronographs ready to catch fire

William Wood is known for their well built and accessibly priced timepieces, all of which are inspired by fire rescue and the brave people who put their lives on the line every day. We’ve covered the full backstory of the brand and its name before, but just to recap: William Wood was the name of … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The William Wood Triumph collection is a set of chronographs ready to catch fire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Introduces the New Oyster Perpetual (in Bright Colours Too) SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Sep 1, 2020

Rolex Introduces the New Oyster Perpetual (in Bright Colours Too)

A direct descendant of the first waterproof wristwatch that debuted in 1926, the Oyster Perpetual has long been the most straightforward offering from Rolex, a fuss-free, time-only watch that still retains the brand’s quintessential technology and design. Rolex has revamped the Oyster Perpetual – now available in in 41 mm, 36 mm, 34 mm, 31 mm, and 28 mm – giving it new dials, including colourful lacquer in candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red, and green, as well as the latest generation movements for the largest sizes. But not that all colours are available in every size; candy pink for instance is available only for the 36 mm and 31 mm models. The Oyster Perpetual 36 in the new colours Initial thoughts It is heartening to see the return of fun, brightly-coloured dials on affordable models, especially in solid colours instead of being combined with quirky patterns such as the concentric decoration found on earlier generations. The bright-colour dials on the largest 41 mm model in particular make for a lively look that is very different from the usual conservative style of the Oyster. More sedate dial colours – namely metallic silver, blue, and black – are also available, but it’s the silver the stands out. In fact, the silver dial is as interesting as its colourful counterparts. The use of gilded hands and indices on silver dial in a steel watch is unusual. Add to that the pale champagne wash over the silver finish, the result is a warm look that is...

Business News: Swatch Group Sales Plunge on Pandemic Closures SJX Watches
Longines had Jul 14, 2020

Business News: Swatch Group Sales Plunge on Pandemic Closures

Swiss watchmaking conglomerate Swatch Group just announced its half-year 2020 results and unsurprisingly, it took a huge hit due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Although the group, which owns brands like Omega and Longines, had a good start in January with an operating margin of 17.3% – with the watch and jewellery brands performing a bit better than movement- and component-production division – the lockdown progressively imposed across the world since February severely impacted sales, leading to a steep declines in revenue and half-year operating loss, a first for the group. Group sales for the first half plunged 43.4% at constant exchange rates from a year earlier, resulting in an operating loss of CHF327m, compared to a profit of CHF547m for the same period in 2019. Most of the drop in sales was attributed to the lockdowns in most countries, resulting in widespread store closures. The Swatch Group saw up to 80% of both its own boutiques and third-party retailers close, meaning it had to rely on partially “partially feasible” e-commerce. And even after lockdowns were lifted, the group permanently vacated some of its retail space, as evidenced by disputes with its former landlord in Hong Kong, which has sued the Swatch Group for several million in allegedly unpaid rent. Due to its swiftly-streamlining retail network, the group’s employee count was trimmed by 6.5% since December 2019 to approximately 33,700 employees. This was also confirmed by anecdotal evidence fro...

4 of the most surprising Rado watches of 2019 Time+Tide
Rado watches Jan 31, 2020

4 of the most surprising Rado watches of 2019

2019 was the year that Rado solidified their intent to deliver watches that not only pleased a loyal fanbase but surprised and captured the imagination of watch enthusiasts new to the brand. Everything from classically proportioned dress watches, to handsome and rugged tool watches and even bold reissues were released by the Swiss marque, to … ContinuedThe post 4 of the most surprising Rado watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Swatch Group Annual Profit Falls with Hong Kong Slowdown SJX Watches
Longines just announced Jan 30, 2020

Business News: Swatch Group Annual Profit Falls with Hong Kong Slowdown

Hong Kong’s political unrest has resulted in the first fall in annual profits at the Swatch Group since 2018. The world’s biggest watchmaking group, which owns brands like Omega and Longines, just announced its 2019 results, showing declines in both sales and profits. Net profit fell 13.7%, while sales declined 1.8% at constant exchange rates, or 2.7% at current rates, to 8.24 billion francs. The drops in profit and sales were primarily due to a drastic contraction of its business in Hong Kong – a city with a population of just 7.4 million – where Swatch Group owns over 90 retail stores, largely catering to shoppers from the China. Sales in Hong Kong for the second half of 2019 fell by 200 million francs. While Hong Kong was the key driver of the decline, it was not the only one. The luxury watch business in general is suffering from anaemic growth, which is also evidenced by the watch division results at diversified luxury groups like LVMH and Kering. On a more positive note, Swatch Group has managed to fulfil its stated aims of reducing operating expenditure and thinning inventory. Operating expenses dipped about 6%, while operating cash flow rose 30% in 2019. And after several consecutive years of growth, the group’s inventories declined by 1% in 2019, to a still-substantial 6.85 billion francs at cost. It’ll be a slow 2020… With Swatch Group predicting the situation in Hong Kong will continue to be “challenging” in 2020, it is in a weaker positio...

Swatch Introduces the Big Bold Jelly SJX Watches
Swatch Dec 27, 2019

Swatch Introduces the Big Bold Jelly

One of the iconic Swatch watches from its 1980s heyday was the Jelly Fish (ref. GZ010), which was unveiled in 1983, the same year Swatch itself was launched. A quartz movement entirely exposed in a clear plastic case – accented with brightly coloured hands – the Jelly Fish was a bestseller that encapsulated what Swatch was all about: no-frills but fun watchmaking. The Jelly Fish remained in production, in one form or another – there was even a COSC-certified chronometer limited edition (GK124) in 1990 – for over two decades. Now the spirit of the Jelly Fish returns as the Big Bold Jelly, essentially the same idea but in a larger watch case. The Big Bold Jelly features a quartz movement inside a Big Bold case, just like the recent limited editions created in collaboration with fashion label A Bathing Ape (BAPE). The case is a large 47mm in diameter, with the crown unusually positioned at two o’clock. But just as with the original Jelly Fish, the case is clear plastic, while the band is translucent silicone. And the hands are rendered in bright colours – red, yellow and blue – with a bit more colour provided by the gilded wheels within the movement. Key facts and price Big Bold Jelly Ref. SO27E100 Diameter: 47mm Height: 11.75mm Material: Clear plastic Water resistance: 30m Movement: Quartz Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds Strap: Silicone with aluminium pin buckle Availability: At Swatch stores Price: US$110 For more information, visit Swatch.co...

Swatch Inaugurates New Headquarters in Biel SJX Watches
Longines Oct 19, 2019

Swatch Inaugurates New Headquarters in Biel

A long snaking building that stretches some 240m, the new Swatch headquarters in Biel, or Bienne in French, is the culmination of five years of work. Selling about 9.5m watches a year for about 450m Swiss francs of revenue, according to Swiss bank Vontobel, Swatch was the foundational company of its parent, the aptly named Swatch Group, which also owns Omega and Longines. Like many of its parent company’s recent projects, the Swatch building was designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, the 2014 Pritzker Prize winner who is best known for his works of wood or paper, as well as his temporary structures for humanitarian aid. Its new home is covered in a honeycomb timber grid that incorporates windows, nine balconies and solar panels. Visible from the inside is the Swatch logo, derived from the Swiss cross, incorporated into some of the grid’s cells. And hidden within the structure is a network of wires and cables for telecommunications, electricity and the like. The Swatch headquarters, with the Omega building at the far left The Swatch building ends in La Cite du Temps, which sits in front of the Omega factory and headquarters Shigeru Ban, Nayla Hayek, and Nick Hayek Jr at the opening ceremony on October 3, 2019 The glass-walled Swatch store in front of the new headquarters With the new headquarters in the background Light, flexible and sustainable, the timber beams used for the outer structure number some 4,600, all precisely cut to fit with join with each other per...

BUSINESS NEWS: Why the Swatch Group has millions of watches sitting in warehouses Time+Tide
Longines Jul 29, 2019

BUSINESS NEWS: Why the Swatch Group has millions of watches sitting in warehouses

The Swatch Group have published their 2019 Half-Year Report, revealing some interesting information. The group has reported an increase in their inventory levels, which include components, movements and watches, to a total of 7.1 billion Swiss francs (up 2.6 per cent from 2018). More broadly, the group, which owns brands such as Tissot, Longines and … ContinuedThe post BUSINESS NEWS: Why the Swatch Group has millions of watches sitting in warehouses appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: An ultra-cool Speedy with orange details? It’s the Omega Speedmaster Racing of course Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Racing Aug 21, 2018

EDITOR’S PICK: An ultra-cool Speedy with orange details? It’s the Omega Speedmaster Racing of course

Editor’s note: A few months ago the watch-loving world went a little nuts for the Speedmaster Ultraman. Many (many) people missed out on copping it, but if your love of retro orange highlights still burns strong, how about this automatic alternative? And while there’s a black dial on offer that looks even more ultra, we’re … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: An ultra-cool Speedy with orange details? It’s the Omega Speedmaster Racing of course appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: Naoya Hida & Co.'s 2026 Slate Of Releases, Including Two Brand-New Models And Their First Porcelain Dial Hodinkee
Naoya Hida Apr 30, 2026

Introducing: Naoya Hida & Co.'s 2026 Slate Of Releases, Including Two Brand-New Models And Their First Porcelain Dial

What We Know It's spring, which means it's time for Naoya Hida's annual trunk show, where the brand tours the world to showcase its new watches. If you're in town for one of their few stops (like next week in New York), you can treat it like any tailor's trunk show and find out if the watch is a good fit. And every year, Hida-san and his team unveil a few new styles. In fact, you can see the ten releases on offer below. Some are familiar; others have small tweaks (the Type1 is now the Type1E because of the new domed crystal that makes it 10.9mm). But there are three watches that are so distinctly new that it's worth talking about. Let's go in numerical order, starting with a watch that is essentially just a dial revision, but it's a dramatic one at that. The Type2 series has been around for six years now as the brand's central seconds movement, followed by revisions in 2021 and then the coveted collaboration with The Armoury in 2022, called "The Lettercutter." I know a lot of people fought to get that piece, but there's a new Type2C-2 that's going to get some attention. While a big draw for Naoya Hida is the hand-engraved German or Argentium silver dials (in fact, that's where a lot of the price goes), they've pivoted here to their first-ever porcelain dial. The watch, powered by a Cal. 3020CS manually-wound movement with 45-hour power reserve and 4Hz beat rate, is cased in 37mm by 11.4mm stainless steel with a 44.8mm lug-to-lug. The glass is a curved sapphire crystal with...

Zenith Turns The G.F.J. Into A Collection With Two Stunning Stone-Dial Limited Editions Fratello
Zenith Turns Apr 13, 2026

Zenith Turns The G.F.J. Into A Collection With Two Stunning Stone-Dial Limited Editions

Last year was a big one for Zenith, celebrating the manufacture’s 160th anniversary. For the occasion, the brand introduced the impressive Zenith G.F.J. The release brought back the legendary caliber 135 and marked the start of a new series of dress watches. But after that release, it remained quiet until today. Today, the inaugural G.F.J. […] Visit Zenith Turns The G.F.J. Into A Collection With Two Stunning Stone-Dial Limited Editions to read the full article.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Spices Up Its Master Control Calendar With A Grained Two-Tone Sector Dial Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Spices Up Sep 30, 2025

Jaeger-LeCoultre Spices Up Its Master Control Calendar With A Grained Two-Tone Sector Dial

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control collection is certainly not the brand’s dressiest work. However, the impressive watches, many of which are complete calendars, still look fairly formal. Well, that’s about to change because the watchmaker from the Vallée de Joux is launching a sportier new version of its Master Control Calendar. It features a two-tone gray sector […] Visit Jaeger-LeCoultre Spices Up Its Master Control Calendar With A Grained Two-Tone Sector Dial to read the full article.

eBay Finds: A Hard to Find Seiko Diver, a Dressy Omega, and a Couple of Cool Vintage Chronos Worn & Wound
Bulova Chronograph  Here’s Sep 26, 2025

eBay Finds: A Hard to Find Seiko Diver, a Dressy Omega, and a Couple of Cool Vintage Chronos

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Seiko Sportsmatic SilverWave 69799  Starting off this week with a killer vintage Seiko, and one you don’t see for sale often. This 1964 Sportsmatic SilverWave is just really cool. The SilverWave is one of Seiko’s earliest divers, with a water resistance rating of 30 meters and an internal rotating countdown bezel. The 38mm steel case is a great size, and it’s in good shape. The original crown is at 4 o’clock, and when it’s in the “in” position, you can turn it to rotate the inner bezel. The silver dial is nice, showing a touch of aging as is the bezel. The snap-on caseback still shows the Seiko wave log and the serial number which dates it to April 1964. The automatic movement is clean and it runs well per the seller. This comes on a Seiko beads of rice bracelet which isn’t original, but looks great. Nice example of a hard to find early Seiko diver! View auction here Vintage Bulova Chronograph  Here’s a real beauty, a vintage Bulova chronograph that features a stunning slate blue dial with dual silver subdials. The 37mm squarish case looks good, still exhibiting the original brushed finish on the top. The dial looks mint, with nice steel stick markers and hands. Ther...