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Cartier Tank Alternatives For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier May 5, 2025

Cartier Tank Alternatives For Every Budget

Inarguably, the Cartier Tank in its many iterations is one of the most significant, easily recognizable, and, ultimately, iconic watches of all time. One can easily spot its quintessential mixing of a rectangular case and simple, legible dial design (most commonly, with Roman numerals, thin sword hands, and the signature Cartier script), out in the wild. It’s a watch that was unisex before unisex was a marketing buzzword across the industry, and since it went into serial production in 1919 has been executed in as many sizes, colors, and materials as one could dream up. Most would agree that the Tank still retains the title of the ultimate rectangular watch in the larger cultural consciousness.  While all of the above is true, we are gathered here today not only to wax poetic on the subject of Cartier’s illustrious Tank, but to dive into a somewhat controversial subject - more wallet-friendly alternatives to the Tank. I will go bravely forth into what might be looked upon as a horological faux-pas. Still, given that I am personally subjected to the plight of needing to be different, have a natural hesitation towards what is most popular, and am not afraid to stick to a budget when necessary, I think I am uniquely fit for the task. Additionally, I am of the mind that imitation is the ultimate form of flattery, so you can also feel free to read this as a love letter to the Cartier Tank.  Down below, I’ve rounded up some contemporary alternatives to the Cartier Tank ...

Rolex Oysterquartz: The Complete Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex May 1, 2025

Rolex Oysterquartz: The Complete Guide

When Rolex introduced its Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller watch at Watches & Wonders 2025, some longtime fans of the brand experienced a bit of déja vu for a Rolex watch - and a Rolex era - that have been largely consigned to the mists of history. Why? Because the Land-Dweller's angular case and integrated-bracelet design reminded many enthusiasts of the Oysterquartz models introduced during the early heyday of quartz watches in the 1970s. That's correct: once upon a time, Rolex, one of the undisputed champions of luxury watches with mechanical movements, jumped on board the Quartz Revolution bandwagon and not only produced its own in-house quartz calibers but marketed the watches that housed them as the pinnacle of the Crown's timepiece portfolio at the time. Here is everything you need to know about the Rolex Oysterquartz and its quirky but significant place in horological history.  Rolex Oysterquartz: The Early Days Of Electric Watches The wristwatch industry, like any other industry, is uber-competitive and every watchmaker wants to be the first to market with The Next Big Thing. In the 1950s and into the ‘60s, that Next Big Thing was a watch that could be powered by electricity. American companies like Hamilton, with the Ventura, and Bulova, with the Accutron, were among the pioneers, even though the movements that resulted from these early efforts proved to have difficulty maintaining reliability in mass production. The Japanese, particularly Seiko, took a diff...

eBay Finds: A Classic from Longines, a Benrus with Crazy Lugs, and a Couple of Great Chronos Worn & Wound
Longines Apr 25, 2025

eBay Finds: A Classic from Longines, a Benrus with Crazy Lugs, and a Couple of Great Chronos

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Benrus Wristwatch  Here’s a nice little vintage Benrus, with fancy knotted lugs. The yellow gold filled case is a hair under 30mm, but what this watch lacks in size it makes up with style with those wild lugs. The case looks to be in really nice shape with sharp edges. The two-tone bullseye style dial is nice, with an even patina. The manual wind movement is clean and runs well per the seller. Nice vintage piece that would look great at your next cocktail party! View auction here Croton Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver Ah, the Croton Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver, the watch with the coolest name ever! And this example is an absolute beauty. The 38mm stainless steel case is unpolished, with perfect sharp chamfers on the lugs, and the aluminum diver bezel is pretty much perfect. The black dial is super clean, with perfectly aged lume, and same with the hands. These Chronomasters came with many different movements, but this example has my favorite, the buttery smooth Valjoux 23, a manual wind masterpiece. This has to be the nicest example of this iteration of the Croton Chronomaster I’ve ever seen. If this floats your boat, here’s your chance to grab one! View auction here Vi...

Breguet Turns to Tradition with the Classique Souscription SJX Watches
Breguet Turns Apr 25, 2025

Breguet Turns to Tradition with the Classique Souscription

The opening salvo in Breguet’s 250th anniversary has just been revealed: the Classique Souscription 2025BH. Although typically Breguet in style, the watch is a novel combination of elements, at least by the conventions of Breguet, a traditionally staid brand. Presented in a case of the new design made of a gold alloy of a new formula, it’s a wristwatch inspired by the one-handed souscription pocket watches of the 18th and 19th centuries. The fired enamel dial replicates that of the pocket watch, while inside is the VS00, a calibre that is descended from the movement of the La Tradition. Initial thoughts As storied a brand as it is, Breguet certainly has a lot to live up to for its 250th anniversary. I expect more to come from Breguet in the coming months, but the Classique Souscription is a strong start, though a little pricey. It’s essentially an elaborately executed time-only watch, precisely the sort of watch that is popular now when made by independent watchmakers, but big brands face more scepticism with such timepieces. The VS00 Though it might seem typical Breguet on its face, the Classique Souscription is an unusual proposition; it’s inspired by various elements from across Breguet’s history, some several centuries apart. The dial and movement are inspired by a 19th century pocket watch, while the case comes much later. But everything works well and the whole manages to look like a Breguet. Traditionalists might mourn the departure from familiar elements ...

Hands On: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon SJX Watches
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Apr 25, 2025

Hands On: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon

Bulgari made its debut at Watches & Wonders this year, having previously exhibited outside the fair. It was a fitting occasion to launch the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the thinnest tourbillon watch ever at just 1.85 mm thick. Housed in the brand’s signature matte grey titanium case and limited to just 20 pieces, the Ultra Tourbillon is paired with an equally thin and silky titanium bracelet. Bulgari is deeply invested in its leadership in ultra-thin watchmaking, and the Ultra Tourbillon shows the brand is willing to do whatever it takes to own as many records in this field as possible. Initial thoughts Despite its record-breaking slimness, there was surprisingly little buzz about the Ultra at Watches & Wonders. This may be due to record fatigue, since the previous record was set just last year by the Piaget AUC Tourbillon. It could also be due to the diminishing returns of these types of records, which are now being broken by almost imperceptible margins. On its exterior, the Ultra Tourbillon is quite similar the 1.7 mm-thick Octo Finissimo Ultra introduced last year. It features a 40 mm case made from a combination of titanium and tungsten carbide, and is impressively open-worked, revealing just about every wheel and pinion on the dial side of the watch. But this watch is all about the headline figure of its 1.85 mm thickness, which endows the Ultra Tourbillon with a delicate, almost weightless feel. The case in profile. Image – Bulgari Like all ultra-thin recor...

Longines Legend Diver Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Apr 23, 2025

Longines Legend Diver Guide

The Longines Legend Diver, introduced in the mid-aughts but tracing its origins all the way back to the embryonic era of modern dive watches in the 1950s and ‘60s, is the epitome of retro-vintage cool for many lovers of sport watches. Here’s how the watch, and its hallmark and still-rare Super Compressor case design, found a successful niche, and an avid audience, in the 21st century.  1959: The Inspiration As with many now-common watchmaking innovations, Longines was one of the pioneers in waterproofing timepieces, making its first water-resistant case as early as 1937, and introducing its first wristwatches purpose-built for recreational diving in the late 1950s. Unlike many of its predecessors and contemporaries in that fertile era of iconic dive watches - like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner (both 1953), and Omega Seamaster Professional (1957) - Longines’s Super Compressor Diver Ref. 7042, launched in 1959 and the most direct ancestor of today’s Legend Diver - did not employ the now-ubiquitous, external, unidirectional rotating bezel for its dive scale. Instead, the watch was designed in the so-called compressor style, also used by brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Enicar, and Universal Genève, whose case design included an inner dive-scale ring, positioned on the dial’s flange and mounted under the crystal, which rotated in both directions, operated by an additional crown at 4 o’clock. The “Super” in Longines’ “Super Compressor”...

Tudor Pelagos Ultra Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Apr 22, 2025

Tudor Pelagos Ultra Review

The Tudor Pelagos has consistently been something of "the other watch" in the broader Tudor lineup, sitting in the shadow of the Black Bay. It is also decidedly more modern in its design and is intended as Tudor’s more contemporary, dive-ready tool. What started as a 42mm mode then morphed into a watch in varying sizes, lug construction, and case construction. In 2025 it now sits as a somewhat diversified collection of its own. Is it a Black Bay in terms of scale and breadth of the collection? No, it is not, but it is also no longer a one trick pony. That concept is no more evident than in the Watches & Wonders 2025 release of the Pelagos Ultra, a 43mm riff on the Pelagos theme that aligns it more closely with the Rolex Deepsea than the Sea-Dweller or Submariner. This is a big, brash, and burly dive watch, intended for a very specific segment of the watch world. If you thought the Pelagos FXD was specific, the Ultra turns the dial up to 11. Case So as I mentioned above, the case is made from the traditional (for a Pelagos) titanium material, a combination of grade 2 and grade 5 to be specific. The side of the case opposite the crown features a discreet helium escape valve. The case may seem big from the specs alone, but the 52mm lug-to-lug makes it such that it isn’t a behemoth. The case thickness is a proportional 14.5mm and due to the overall size, you will be looking at a lug width of 22mm. The bezel insert is made of a matte titanium housed in a titanium bezel. The...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Apr 21, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001

Patek Philippe came to Watches & Wonders 2025 with a deep bench of strong new releases, but for fans of the classic Calatrava, the standout was without question the Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001. It’s an easy watch to love, with good proportions, a hefty 38 mm platinum case, a lively “salmon” dial, and is powered by the brand’s latest generation movement. Though the brand was arguably overshadowed this year by its suburban Geneva neighbors Rolex and Vacheron Constantin, at lower and higher ends of the price spectrum, respectively, Patek Philippe demonstrated its ability to deliver in every category, from simple dress and sport watches to mid and high complications. Initial thoughts In February 2017 I was asked what I wished to see from Baselworld that year. I said I’d like to see a successor to the ref. 5196 with a case-filling movement and a large balance. Eight years later, Patek Philippe delivered more or less exactly what I imagined, keeping the proportions and details of the classic Calatrava with a more advanced movement than the outdated cal. 215 that was used at the time. So in a sense, this watch was made for me.  But I had not anticipated a “salmon” dial. Officially labelled “rose-gilt opaline” by Patek Philippe, such dials have become popular among collectors, and are now a staple across the Patek Philippe collection. Naturally, a vivid colour like this helps an otherwise simple watch stand out, but personally I look forward to more toned down iter...

Mido Multifort TV Big Date Review Teddy Baldassarre
Mido Apr 17, 2025

Mido Multifort TV Big Date Review

Of all the vintage-style watches that are all the rage today - and there are plenty of them - perhaps none are more charmingly retro in their appeal than watches with a soft-square “TV” case. Not only is the shape itself evocative of a bygone era in watch design, but even its descriptor is hopelessly dated. When was the last time, after all, that you encountered a TV set that actually had that shape? It’s similar to the way we still call our smart devices “phones,” even if we aren’t really making telephone calls on them much anymore. But I digress. The gist here is that Mido was one of the first watchmakers to lean into the “TV” shape for its timepieces, with its first one debuting all the way back in 1973 - that halcyon era when television screens were still square and families gathered around them to watch All in the Family, The Waltons, and Hawaii Five-O. In 2023, 50 years later and well into the modern era of flat-screens and video streaming, Mido brought back the TV case in an extension of its Multifort collection, first in all-steel versions and eventually in the rose-gold-PVD-coated steel model we showcase here.  The Multifort TV Big Date represents the latest intriguing evolution of the Multifort series, which is actually one of the brand’s oldest product families, the first model having debuted as early as 1934 - long before most American homes even had television sets, in fact. In addition to its three-part case, which measures an alm...

Louis Moinet Debuts New Chronograph Movement in the 1816 SJX Watches
Louis Moinet Apr 11, 2025

Louis Moinet Debuts New Chronograph Movement in the 1816

A tribute to the first chronograph pocket watch, the Louis Moinet 1816 combines contemporary case design with an all-new, classically constructed chronograph movement featuring a column wheel, horizontal clutch, and swan’s neck regulator. With the 1816, Louis Moinet has concocted an unusual but appealing proposition that blends the new with the old. Initial thoughts Louis Moinet is regarded as the inventor of the chronograph thanks to the compteur de tierce (which translates as “thirds counter”) that he revealed in 1816. His creation was considered more of a scientific instrument than a chronograph as we know it today. It was Nicolas Rieussiec who actually coined the term “chronograph” a few years later in 1821. Now the revived brand bearing Moinet’s name has taken inspiration from his 1816 invention to create a reinterpretation of the compteur de tierce. The original “thirds counter”. Image – Louis Moinet With a monochromatic, all-titanium construction and integrated bracelet, the 1816 looks to be a sports watch, yet it only has a 30 m water resistance. The traditionally styled movement stands in contrast with the contemporary and somewhat trendy exterior. Such a tribute to a historic piece would arguably have worked better with appropriately classical design. As it is, the 1816 is neither a dress nor a sports watch. The design feels confused, but the appeal of the movement alone is clear since it ticks most of the boxes that collectors appreciate in an ...

Blancpain Fills a Niche with Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm in Polishe Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain Apr 10, 2025

Blancpain Fills a Niche with Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm in Polishe

Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms, first introduced in 1953, is indisputably one of the most influential and iconic timepieces of the 20th century, basically laying out the blueprint for what we now recognize today as the modern divers’ watch. Also indisputable is the fact that the Fifty Fathoms is a watch that is anything but understated in its proportions - the Automatique at the core of the modern collection, relaunched in 2008, sports a massive 45mm case, and even the vintage-inspired and allegedly more modestly sized Bathyscaphe models, which joined the collection in 2013, hover around 43mm in their male-targeted iterations. In 2024, Blancpain responded to a market-wide trend toward smaller case sizes - albeit without compromising the bold character of its flagship sport-luxury model - by releasing a new version of the Fifty Fathoms Automatique in a middle-of-the-road 42mm version. Curiously, the first two models in this size were in rose gold and titanium; the inclusion of a steel model seemed to be a no-brainer that was conspicuous by its absence in that first wave of 42mm models. Today, however, Blancpain has finally delivered the Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm in stainless steel - adding it to the regular collection as well as giving the model a distinctive flair. The stainless steel case of the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique, which measures precisely 42.3mm in diameter and 14.3mm thick, sports a gleaming, predominantly polished finish, distinguishing...

De Bethune Turns to Swizz Beatz for Kind of Two GMT SJX Watches
De Bethune Turns Apr 10, 2025

De Bethune Turns to Swizz Beatz for Kind of Two GMT

The third iteration of De Bethune’s swivelling, double-faced watch is the Kind of Two GMT “Season 3” conceived in collaboration with American rapper and watch enthusiast Swizz Beatz. Powered by the hand-wound DB2517 movement, the watch indicates one time zone on the front and another on the reverse, with both sides able to be worn face up thanks to patented, pivoting “floating” lugs. Initial thoughts The Kind of Two series employs a useful reversible case, cleverly using the “floating” lug construction of the DB28 to create a double-faced watch. Here one dial is traditional with blued steel hands, and the other an open-worked face revealing the movement that also has a regulator-style display for the second time zone. The clever approach with a unique movement is typical De Bethune, although this loses some novelty as the third double-faced watch in the De Bethune line-up. The Kind of Two GMT is definitely one of the most elaborate two time zone watches on the market, but at over US$200,000, it is pricey for a GMT, even by the standards of independent watchmaking (Voutilainen’s GMT, for instance, costs less). Two-faced The “Season 3” edition adopts a restrained palette of black and gold with blue accents. The 43.3 mm by 11.4 mm case is titanium and zirconium, with blued steel hands and a blue-and-black guilloche dial centre on the front showing local time. Notably, this dial includes a jumping seconds that is driven by a secondary escapement visible on ...

Omega Unveils Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer SJX Watches
Omega Unveils Seamaster Planet Ocean Apr 6, 2025

Omega Unveils Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer

Omega’s latest is an unusual combination of a 600 m-rated dive watch with a Cottier-style world time. The Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer shares the oversized ceramic case of the Planet Ocean Deep Black, but is the first model in the collection to incorporate a world time complication. Initial thoughts While the Worldtimer makes a bold statement, a US$14,800 price tag and substantial case dimensions may limit its appeal – particularly for those with average-sized wrists. Still, it offers a somewhat paradoxical and oddly specific combination of features, so someone seeking a world time watch ready for saturation diving, there are few other options. Of the two available colourways, I would choose the low-key grey edition for its greater versatility compared to the turquoise version. Worldtimer Offered with either turquoise or grey accents, the new Planet Ocean is housed in a black ceramic case measuring 45.5 mm in diameter and 17.4 mm in thickness. Signature Seamaster case elements, including twisted lyre lugs, a helium escape valve, and “Broad Arrow” hands, complete the design. The standout feature the world time complication with a cities disc and 24-hour ring. At the centre is a titanium disc displaying a view of the Earth from the North Pole, with continents and colours rendered with varnish and laser engraving. A 24-hour ring in transparent hesalite is shaded in black and white to denote night and day. The chapter ring for the hours is embellished with a honey...

First Look – The More Compact Parmigiani Tonda PF Chronograph No-Date 40mm Mineral Blue Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier unveiled Apr 3, 2025

First Look – The More Compact Parmigiani Tonda PF Chronograph No-Date 40mm Mineral Blue

Three years ago,  Parmigiani Fleurier unveiled its sophisticated Tonda PF luxury sports watch collection. Still bearing traits from the original Tonda designed by Michel Parmigiani, the collection debuted with four models, including the 42mm Tonda PF Chronograph. The new Tonda PF Chronograph, presented during Watches & Wonders 2025, comes in a more compact 40mm case […]

Introducing – The New Sellita-Powered Oris Big Crown Pointer Date with Colourful Dials Monochrome
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Apr 3, 2025

Introducing – The New Sellita-Powered Oris Big Crown Pointer Date with Colourful Dials

Alongside the green and terracotta Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 housed in a 40mm case with a sleek, polished bezel instead of the classic coin-edge design, Oris also introduces a trio of new, simpler versions of its emblematic watch. And while these lack the high-performance Calibre 403 movement and replace it with a Sellita […]

Introducing – The New H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Apr 3, 2025

Introducing – The New H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel

Moser hits the nail on the head when it states that for a straightforward three-hand watch to rise above the generic models populating the field, it requires perfect balance and proportions, high-end finishes and a unique touch. The new Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept ticks all the boxes with its well-finished, balanced case, captivating purple Grand […]

Frederique Constant Introduces a Revamped Classic Perpetual Calendar Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Introduces Apr 1, 2025

Frederique Constant Introduces a Revamped Classic Perpetual Calendar

Frederique Constant proved that a perpetual calendar watch could be priced within reach of the general market with the release of their original Classic Perpetual Manufacture back in 2016. Nine years later, the Geneva-based brand’s redesigned and refined new Classic Perpetual looks to continue that tradition.  Housed in a steel 40mm case that sports slimmer lugs and softer angles than previous models, the new Classic promises elegance and functionality in equal measure. The salmon “sunray” dial and silver diamond-cut indexes ooze cocktail party elegance, but keep the color scheme in check in order to draw full and worthy attention to the complications: a date counter at 3 o’clock, moonphase at 6, weekday counter at 9, and month and leap year counter at 12, all of which are stepped to add dimension to the dial. A discreet sector dial minute track runs the perimeter for a touch of vintage flair, while the Frederique Constant signature sits below the moonphase window at the 6 position. None of these features will be a surprise for seasoned calendar collectors, of course, but the combination of the salmon dial, silver dauphine hands and indexes, and subtly reshaped Classic case will draw appreciation from those in the market for a dress watch that punches above its price point. The included dark brown alligator leather strap adds another point of class to the Classic, as does the onion-style crown-this is a watch to be worn while toasting a great achievement in the ...

Alpina Re-Issues a Classic with the Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding Worn & Wound
Alpina Re-Issues Apr 1, 2025

Alpina Re-Issues a Classic with the Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding

The original Alpina Tropic-Proof, released in 1965 under mysterious origins-even the Swis brand itself can’t pinpoint the exact date-was emblematic of the newfound adventurous spirit ushered in by the now-accessible boom of transatlantic air travel. With a case designed by François Borgel and a handwinding movement, the Tropic-Proof was meant to be a watch-of-all-trades that could travel the globe with ease, rather than a specialized tool. Six decades later, Alpina is reissuing that design with key nods to the model’s history and future. Appropriately dubbed the Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding, the watch is enveloped in an understated stainless steel case that measures 34mm in diameter. Both dial options-shiny-finished white or black-contrast well with the applied silver indexes and polished silver hands, and the dial design excels in its simplicity, without conceding elegance. The hour and minute hands, as well as the dotted minute track, are coated in beige Luminova to give the Tropic-Proof ease of use in darkness. A beige Alcantara strap with a pin buckle adds a touch of sophistication, but not overzealousness, keeping the watch within the boundaries of subtle class. A threaded solid caseback with an engraved Heritage pattern hides the handwinding AL-480 caliber movement, which touts a 42-hour power reserve. Capping off the simple but elegant design is an anti-reflective glass box sapphire crystal, which curves downwards to maintain viewing ease at all an...