Deployant
First Look at Apple’s new Apple Watch (fka iWatch) / Apple launches a really nice Ikepod
Deployant reviews the new Apple Watch and discusses its impact on the world of traditional haute horology
6,658 articles · 68 videos found · page 34 of 225
Deployant
Deployant reviews the new Apple Watch and discusses its impact on the world of traditional haute horology
Revolution
It’s hard to believe that the UR-103 was released over 10 years ago. Yes - for those of you still mired in denial about how terrifyingly fast the last decade has gone by - it was 2003 when we first saw the shield-shaped watch with four conical hour satellites. As a testament to how forward-looking […]
Revolution
Over the years Cartier has build a stunning collection of skeleton watches. Transparency has been an integral part of the Maison’s style for decades, from the first mystery clocks created in 1912 to the skeletonised movements of the 1930s. And recently for the Fine Watch Making Collection, La Maison created the Santos 100, Santos Dumont, […]
Revolution
Some watches have the ability to grab your heart and never let go, and the love becomes all the more intense when the watch reveals it’s magic only when you get closer. This was the curious experience I had with the Tudor FastRider Black Shield, that while having been in the market for close to a […]
Revolution
Jerome Lambert, newly appointed CEO of Montblanc has certainly shaken up the brand by offering an outstanding value proposition with the Meisterstück Heritage line. Also sharing the headlines is the Homage to Nicholas Nicolas Rieussec and the TimeWalker Chronograph 100. Interviewed by Wei Koh. Read Revolution International Digital Editon on iPad, Android or desktop with the […]
Deployant
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Revolution
The story is well known: in 1812, Caroline Murat, the Queen of Naples and the sister of Emperor Napoleon I, received a watch made for her by Breguet in his Paris workshops. The watch was an unusual and historically important one in many respects –it was a small but quite complicated watch, in an oblong […]
Revolution
I sat down with long-time friend of REVOLUTION Maximilian Büsser this morning to experience something that quite a few of us in this industry have been anticipating for some time now. Those of you reading this, it is to be presumed, are already familiar with the watches of MB&F; - the Horological Machines that draw […]
Revolution
We apologize for bringing you this after the New Year’s come and gone, but faithful Revolution Online readers now know we’ve been laboring in a good cause –bringing you our new, updated site. We do want to share with you a wonderful time we had co-hosting an event celebrating the watchmaking of Blancpain, with Adam […]
Deployant
Malmaison by The Hour Glass in Knightsbridge stands as one of the most beautiful stores purveying luxury in the world. A brainchild of Michael Tay, this store is a treasure house to showcase luxury. Not satisfied with just offering the world’s best watches, Malmaison now also offers a beautiful line of menswear, luxury perfumes andRead More
Deployant
Following up on last Friday’s remarks using DeBethune’s remarkable DB25T as an example, today’s post I use the same combination on the Voutilainen Vingt8 (28). Also photographed in L’Atelier by The Hour Glass using my usual set-up. I have featured the Vingt-8 before. As I described earlier, this is a magnificent watch. As mentioned inRead More
Deployant
Following up on my walkabout impressions of the quite remarkable Leica S2, here are some photographs I made in L’Atelier by The Hour Glass using my usual set-up. I have featured the Db25T before, it is a remarkable watch. I particularly love the jumping seconds hand, and the beautiful Caliber 2109 with the magnificent bridgeRead More
Deployant
Year after year, the Salon International de Haut Horologie (SIHH) showcases the best of watches in the industry in the huge, invitation only show in Geneva. This is my 10th year attending SIHH. And with each year, the booths become more and more amazing. As the Founder of the Lange Owner’s Group, I naturally useRead More
Deployant
Vianney Halter is an exceptional watchmaker. Supremely creative in his approach. His first watch to be unveilled to the world is a result of a collaboration with Jeff Barnes. The legend goes that Jeff and Vianney were having a drink, when the latter challenged the former, who is an industrial designer, to design a watchRead More
Fratello
In the watch industry, people often toss around the term “gray market,” but they don’t always fully understand it. The gray market for watches refers to a network of unofficial sales channels through which sellers trade watches outside of the authorized distribution system. While this market is legal, it operates without the endorsement of the […] Visit The Gray Market For Watches: Understanding The Parallel World Of Watch Trading to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Stories. All my favourite watches in my collection have one. More than how much you paid for something, or who you know at an authorised dealer, they’re the most interesting part of watch collecting. The one from your significant other. Your grandfather’s. The one that never left your wrist on that cross-country trip, even when … ContinuedThe post The Bremont MBIII is a pilot’s watch with one hell of a backstory appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Last month, the Swedish brand E.C. Andersson caught our attention with the release of the Timepod, a funky square watch with a unique detachable lug system. Zach Weiss and I were both pretty taken with it and even discussed at some length on the podcast. This is a brand that is appealing not just for their quality and design aesthetic, but their unique approach to manufacturing and watchmaking, making many components in-house in their own studio, and sometimes coming up with solutions to problems that don’t actually exist (that’s watchmaking in a nutshell in 2026). Their latest effort, the Cpt, is pitched as something a little more traditional than the Timepod or the Mytilus, the watch that initially made me take notice of the brand. The Cpt is described by E.C. Andersson as “Our take on a dress watch, sort of.” That last clause is doing some heavy lifting. This is a watch that straddles stylistic lines between nautical inspiration and midcentury dress watches but clearly retains E.C. Andersson’s core aesthetic, which at this point is pretty well defined by things like dial texture, and the shape of indices, which are more suggestive and abstract than traditional hour markers. The Cpt comes in a compact 36.5mm case that measures 8.5mm tall, not including the boxed sapphire crystal, another hallmark of the brand. The case is designed to be robust yet elegant, and has a full 100 meters of water resistance. In photos, it doesn’t present as a tool watch, and ha...
Hodinkee
What We Know Earlier this year at Watches and Wonders, Belgian brand Ressence introduced the first watch in its collection with an in-house-designed RW-01 movement, the Type 11. That should theoretically mean a farewell (at least for most things going forward) to the base ETA movements that have powered all Ressence models to date, each paired with the brand's unique orbital Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) module. Today's release of the Type 10, timed right alongside WatchTime New York, features the first oil-filled watch from Ressence to feature a proprietary movement. At a high level, the Type 10 might initially feel like a mix of several previous Ressence designs, but the final product somehow feels quite fresh. Much of it is due to the case and bezel. The silhouette of the 41.5mm case in grade 5 titanium gives this Type 10 a cushion-like shape, and it is paired with a flush-integrated rubber strap. It's a new feel for a Ressence. The entire case is coated for a glossy, dark blue hue, and that coloring extends all the way to the strap, buckle, and, of course, the dial. Ressence says this is a DLC coating, but to my knowledge, it's not possible to achieve a colored coating with the specific process—I believe this coating to be something different. If I had to guess, I'd say that it's a ceramic coating of some sort. There is ever-so-slightly a squared-off aspect to the design, with the bezel at twelve and six o'clock flattening out on its edge for a look that comp...
Hodinkee
What We Know If you thought Doxa was done for the summer, well, we've got one more for you, and it's a good one at that. Made in collaboration with San Diego–based jeweler and watch dealer Belmont Watches, Doxa has reinvented the Sub 300 Beta, bringing a decidedly military execution to its most fashion-forward model, directly inspired by San Diego's longstanding military history. If you're slightly surprised to hear that last part (maybe because when you think of San Diego you think of beaches, surfing, golf, the Padres, or the San Diego Zoo), trust me when I tell you that San Diego is a proper military town, with a significant Navy, Marine, and Coast Guard presence. It is also — most importantly for this watch — the home of Naval Amphibious Base Coronado, and with it, SEAL Team 1. This watch pays homage to that team's predecessors, the Navy Underwater Demolition Team (UDT), better known as Frogmen, from whom the ranks of the original SEAL Team 1 were populated. So, what does that look like? Well, in this case, it means reinterpreting the existing Doxa Sub 300 Beta with a fatigue-esque kelp-green grained dial, a handset straight off the Doxa Army (as seen recently on our own limited edition with Doxa), and a first-of-its-kind (for Doxa) fully sandblasted stainless steel case and bracelet. Like other watches in the Sub 300 Beta lineup, the "Frogger" is thinner than you'd expect from a Doxa diver, at 11.95mm, but otherwise retains proportions similar to the 300T, measu...
SJX Watches
IWC’s history is dotted with landmark innovations such as Albert Pellaton’s pawl winding system, Kurt Klaus’ famous perpetual calendar, and Richard Habring’s split-seconds chronograph module; the ProSet perpetual calendar system continues this legacy. This bidirectional perpetual calendar module made its debut earlier this year at Watches & Wonders inside the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet, and remains true to IWC’s identity as an engineer’s manufacture. A smaller Big Pilot QP The Big Pilot ProSet unveiled at Watches & Wonders blends the manufacture’s latest engineering feat with the beloved styling of the pilot’s watch. The ProSet system is currently only available inside the 42 mm Big Pilot. Powered by a downsized base calibre, the 42 mm ProSet is the first Big Pilot under 46 mm to include a perpetual calendar. IWC has a tweaked and scaled down the its signature Kurt Klaus module in the past for the 42 mm Portugieser and some Portofinos, but somehow it never made into the reduced Big Pilot collection. Unfortunately, these smaller watches lacked the now-iconic digital year display, and instead featured a subtler (but more forgettable) leap cycle aperture. The ProSet brings back the four-digit year display, making this watch almost indistinguishable from the original 46 mm version. Apart from some styling choices, the main difference in the displays is the lack of a power reserve indicator. The cal. 82665 inside is powered by a single mains...
SJX Watches
American watchmaking seems to be on the rebound, though it bears repeating that the number of brands doing substantial work within the 50 states remains low. On the eve of the nation’s 250th birthday, we examine another aspect of the domestic watch industry: the state of its watchmaking training system. To bring this topic into focus, we visited the Watch Technology Institute (WTI) at North Seattle College (NSC) — the last remaining full-time public watchmaking programme in the US capable of granting a major certification. The Watch Technology Institute at North Seattle College. Image – WTI The state of watch education in the United States The United States was once a watchmaking powerhouse that forced a massive shift toward industrialised watchmaking in Switzerland. But the domestic industry faltered as consumer tastes shifted to favour wristwatches, and the nation’s industrialists effectively gave up on watchmaking to focus on other markets. That explains why most American watchmakers today are oriented toward the service and maintenance of Swiss-made watches. There’s been a renewed emphasis in recent years on making complete watches in the US — J.N. Shapiro’s Resurgence is a representative example — but the needs and trends of the broader market help explain America’s increasingly consolidated training landscape. Understanding WTI and SAWTA The history of WTI dates to the post-war era, when a large number of vocational schools were opened in the US to ...
Worn & Wound
Collaboration has been at the core of watchmaking since the early days with the etablissage system on which the artform was founded joining together craftspeople of all disciplines to bring a watch to life. In our modern era, collaborations have become more formalized between watchmakers as well as with other brands, artists, athletes, and even the most unexpected partners. Yes, collaborations have taken some wild twists and turns, and the work between Micromilspec’s founders Henrik Rye, Alexander Kadin, and Kim Ellefsen alongside industrial designer and materials specialist James Thompson AKA Black Badger definitely falls in that category. The group first teamed up one year ago for the inaugural installment in the Project Sabotage/Time Wars series, but what makes this collaboration so unique is that it extends beyond the watch itself and to an accompanying alternate anime universe. Here, Micromilspec and Black Badger have taken the concept of storytelling in watchmaking to a whole new level, placing their co-created timepiece in its own world where Black Badger himself takes his animal form. As you might guess, the creative process throughout such a collaboration is anything but ordinary. I sat down with Black Badger himself just ahead of the announcement for the second edition in the series the Broken Hour, whose one-time, 24-hour sales window is officially open and closes at 12pm ET on May 30. “Henrick and I were just together finalizing the storytelling elements,...
SJX Watches
Seiko is marking its 145th anniversary by continuing to push the envelope for high-end quartz. The Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph is a series of four new references featuring a new multi-function quartz calibre, a streamlined case, and a push-button interchangeable strap system compatible with both the standard titanium bracelet and a range of silicone straps. Initial thoughts Since 1969, Seiko has been at the forefront of quartz technology, and since 2012 the brand has commercialised a range of GPS-synced solar-powered quartz watches under the Astron banner — named in honour of the groundbreaking 1969 original. The contemporary Astron models have taken quartz timekeeping about as far as it can go. Left on it’s own, it’s not the most accurate quartz watch, but the satellite link keeps the time in sync with network time and automatically adjusts to local time when travelling. Reference HAB002. Given the amount of technology packed inside — including a solar power unit — the Astron has always been a big watch. At 43.4 mm, the new Dual-Time Chronograph is not a small watch, but at just 12.4 mm thick it’s about 1 mm thinner than its predecessor, which is a welcome improvement. The bigger news, however, is outside the case: a new interchangeable strap and bracelet system. Bracelets have long been an achilles heel for both Seiko and Grand Seiko. The latter made big strides this year with a new bracelet for the Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver, and now Seiko ...
Fratello
Superleggera is Italian for “super light.” But to a petrolhead, the word means more. The term refers to a custom automobile body-construction method developed by Felice Bianchi Anderloni at the Italian coachbuilder Carrozzeria Touring Superleggera. Patented in 1936, the Superleggera system uses a framework of thin steel tubes shaped to the contours of the car […] Visit Hands-On With The New Chanel J12 Superleggera Caliber 12.1 — Is It Worthy Of The Famous Automotive Moniker? to read the full article.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list. For this week’s Top 5, we look at another Rolex classic. The Cosmograph Daytona is one of the brand’s most iconic pieces in the watch world. The stainless steel versions of the racing chronograph are notoriously difficult to source through a Rolex dealer, and pre-owned prices are generally higher than retail. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Daytona Alternatives In 2026 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Teddy Baldassarre is a name that likely needs little context or introduction for many in our audience. What began as a YouTube channel focused on a discussion of watches has grown into a great deal more over the last several years. Teddy is an authorized retailer of over 50 brands, and has opened a flagship boutique in his home city of Cleveland, OH. He and his growing team are also a regular presence at industry watch events, where they provide coverage and insight on everything happening in a rapidly changing industry. Up until today, however, there was one right of passage in our shared watch ecosystem that they had not yet taken part in: the special edition collaborative watch. That changes today with the launch of the Brew Metric Teddy Baldassarre Edition. Brew, for their part, is no stranger to the collaboration game. We’ve partnered with Brew ourselves on a handful of limited edition releases, including the “Lumint” from earlier this year. A Brew collaboration is always an interesting endeavor because brand founder Jonathan Ferrer’s designs can take on so many different forms and personalities with small changes to color, texture, and tone. For the Teddy Baldassarre Edition of the Metric, Teddy and Jonathan have chosen to experiment with tones of blue. The dial is a dark, nearly navy shade of blue, and the tone alternates from light to dark across the subdials and handset. There are a number of other little details on this edition that have been tweake...
Monochrome
Ressence hit the ground running when Belgian industrial designer Benoît Mintiens unveiled prototypes of the Zero Series, featuring its unique “beyond hands” display at Baselworld 2010. Relying on revolving sub-dials powered by the brand’s patented Orbital Convex System (ROCS), time literally circles the domed dial like planets orbiting the Sun. In 2014, Ressence introduced the crownless […]
Worn & Wound
The latest from Ming is a continuation of their incredibly popular diver lineup, the current incarnation of which began with the 37.09 “Bluefin” and was later followed up with the 37.09 “Uni”. Both of those watches very effectively made use of a dual crown system (one for time setting, one for rotating an internal bezel that is not really a bezel at all), streamlined proportions, and Ming’s expertise in using sapphire and lume for both decorative and functional purposes. The new 37.11 Odyssey is an expansion of the ideas found in the Bluefin and Uni, with an added GMT feature and the option to spec the watch on the absolutely insane Polymesh bracelet. When we had our meeting with Ming earlier this year at Geneva Watch Days, this was the watch that brand founder Ming Thein was wearing on his wrist. I’ll be honest, the Polymesh bracelet kind of stole the show in that presentation, overshadowing the Odyssey just a little, but that’s simply because the Polymesh was a legitimately novel creation, while the Odyssey is something a little more familiar. That’s not a slight, of course. One of the things that makes Ming such an impressive brand is the way a clarity of design runs through each new watch they make, always in conversation with earlier pieces. That’s what helps you identify a watch as a Ming, but it can also mean that certain releases don’t create that vibrational spark of interest that really gets you excited. That said, the Odyssey is an objectiv...
Deployant
Zenith has expanded its Chronomaster Sport collection with the release of the Meteorite edition, a stainless steel chronograph featuring a dial crafted from genuine extraterrestrial material. Previously available only in Japan, this model is now offered globally through Zenith boutiques and authorized retailers. Priced at $17,500, the watch combines Zenith’s high-frequency El Primero 3600 movement with a unique Widmanstätten-patterned meteorite dial, aiming to balance technical precision with visual distinctiveness.
Worn & Wound
Usually when watchmakers brag about space cred, they bring up models that have gone to space or that are made of rocks from space or that take inspiration from the solar system. Zach Smith has them all beat: the Ohio-based horological craftsman makes aerospace engineering components (among other things) at his workshop, Hour Precision. Smith had hoped from the start that Hour Precision would make watches, and found along the way the machines and expertise you need to machine intricate watch movement pieces translate well to making parts for semiconductors, medical equipment, and, of course, aerospace components. That move into non-horological industries came relatively recently for Smith, however. Before the micro-machining and before he founded Hour Precision, Smith was a high-school-aged watch enthusiast who landed a job in a jewelry school. “I was fixing heart rate monitor watches. There was a brand called Polar before the Apple Watch that made fitness watches, and I started off doing that and then moved,” said Smith. “My boss at the time was selling pre-owned Rolex. He would buy product from walk-ins and from other suppliers and refurbish the Rolex watches, polish them, etc., and then sell them. After a while where I was doing well with the Polar watches, he asked me if I wanted to start doing that.” Zach Smith, front left, upon graduation from watchmaking school. Image courtesy Zach Smith @zachsmiami From there, Smith moved to another store that processed betw...
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