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Bienne

Bilingual Swiss city; HQ of Rolex (1919), Omega (1880), Tissot, Movado, Mido, ETA SA, Nivarox-FAR.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Vs. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Vs Rolex May 11, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Vs. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

It’s Sunday morning, and you all know what that means. It’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we paired two legendary chronographs because we found that we hadn’t pitted these particular versions against each other. It’s been roughly a year since Omega released the white-dial Moonwatch, but it feels like it was much […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Vs. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to read the full article.

Breaking News: F.P. Journe Buys Breguet Sympathique No. 1 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Buys Breguet Sympathique No May 10, 2025

Breaking News: F.P. Journe Buys Breguet Sympathique No. 1

In a surprising turn of events, the Breguet Sympathique no. 1 has been acquired by its primary creator, Francois-Paul Journe, for the princely sum of CHF5.51 million including fees (equivalent to US$6.61 million). Notably, Sympathique no. 1 sold for almost as much as the Sympathique made for the Duc d’Orléans. Completed in 1991 for the Art of Breguet thematic auction, the clock was completed in 1991 by Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA), a complications workshop founded by Mr Journe, who also recruited Denis Flageollet and clockmaker Dominic Mouret. And now it will soon become one of the key exhibits in the upcoming F.P. Journe Museum, which will be located near its manufacture in downtown Geneva. Determined bidding The impressive result for the clock exceeded most expectations, including mine. I had expected a result in the region of CHF2.5 million. And in a bit of intrigue before the auction, F.P. Journe sent out an announcement to its clients before the auction stating that it would not repair or service Sympathique no. 1; the buyer of the clock would have to go to Breguet. Getting to the hammer price was not difficult, illustrating the strength of the F.P. Journe name today. While there were a handful of bidders under the million-franc mark, it was eventually down to a gentleman in the room and Mr Journe himself. Past the CHF2 million mark it then turned into a contest between a phone bidder represented by Alex Ghotbi and Mr Journe. Bidding proceeded at a stea...

Seiko Arnie Review: The Discontinued Icon Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko May 9, 2025

Seiko Arnie Review: The Discontinued Icon

Before getting into the Seiko "Arnie," I must discuss the man who made it an icon on the big screen. Arnold Schwarzenegger is a guy who knows watches. Or he is at least a guy who is very clear and consistent about the types of watches that he likes. In terms of impact on the watch industry, few celebrity enthusiasts have been as huge (pun intended) as Schwarzenegger, the former “Mr. Universe” from Austria who dominated the big screen during the 1980s and ‘90s in high-testosterone blockbusters like Conan the Barbarian, Predator, Commando, Total Recall, End of Days, and the Terminator series. Along with his fellow iconic action star, Sylvester Stallone, Schwarzenegger helped bring Panerai and its hypermasculine, military style to the attention of millions, kicking off a fascination with large, bulky watches that more or less defined the early 2000s. He also played a significant role in taking Audemars Piguet’s boldly styled Royal Oak Offshore out from under the shadow of the original Royal Oak and into a pop-cultural milieu all its own, famously donning a specially tailored model for his 1999 thriller, End of Days. From this, one can make the assumption that Arnold, who also went on to become the governor of California, loves big watches with mechanical movements from historic Swiss maisons. But in at least two of the movies listed above, he turned instead to a Japanese watch with an analog-digital display - still plenty big, but at the time priced in a range tha...

The Evergreens – The History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore – Redefining Luxury Sports Watches Since 1993 Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore – May 9, 2025

The Evergreens – The History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore – Redefining Luxury Sports Watches Since 1993

The story of the origins of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore has been told many times, typically casting Stephen Urquhart, then co-CEO of Audemars Piguet, as the visionary mind behind the watch. According to the commonly accepted version, Urquhart’s sharp commercial instincts led him to assign a young designer, Emmanuel Gueit, the task of […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Day-Date Models With Exotic Dials Fratello
Rolex Day-Date Models May 9, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Day-Date Models With Exotic Dials

The Rolex Day-Date has long been the brand’s flagship model. We sometimes forget that fact due to all the new Rolex releases every year. We usually only see new dial variations for the Day-Date. But that makes sense; after all, why drastically change something if it’s already so good? This is why we decided to […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Day-Date Models With Exotic Dials to read the full article.

The One-Off White Gold Universal Genève SAS Polerouter Heads To Auction Fratello
Breitling purchased May 8, 2025

The One-Off White Gold Universal Genève SAS Polerouter Heads To Auction

While there are no official announcements on new releases from the reborn Universal Genève, we do have news. To refresh your memory, Breitling purchased the brand in December 2023 from Stelux Holdings. It has been made clear that new models, along with authorized retailers, wouldn’t emerge until 2026. However, three “new” one-off SAS Polerouter references […] Visit The One-Off White Gold Universal Genève SAS Polerouter Heads To Auction to read the full article.

Brew Introduces the Metric Manual Wind, with a Swiss Mechanical Movement Worn & Wound
Brew Introduces May 7, 2025

Brew Introduces the Metric Manual Wind, with a Swiss Mechanical Movement

Brew’s recent history has been marked by two distinct types of watch releases. There are watches that incorporate bold design choices in established platforms, like Metric Star from last year, or our own Metric Chrono Regulator Lumint limited edition. These releases take a distinct point of view on something that is familiar to Brew fans and watch enthusiasts more generally, and keep moving the ball forward on the brand’s aesthetic. Then there are more substantial releases that feel like the brand is reaching for greater heights, toying with an incrementally higher end product. The titanium Metric Chronograph, for instance, seemed like clear upping of the ante in terms of what the Brew catalog might look like across price points, materials, and so on, as did the first mechanical Metric when it was released almost two years ago. If you’ve spent any time at all talking to Brew founder Jonathan Ferrer, you know that he has no shortage of ideas for the brand, so there’s a prevailing sense that a watch that completely changes how we think about Brew could come at any time. The new Metric Manual Wind might be the best example of that to date.  It makes sense, in a lot of ways, that a watch like this would come now. This year marks Brew’s tenth anniversary, and the last decade (especially the last five years or so) have seen the brand grow at a clip rarely seen in the microbrand space. The Metric has proven to be a particularly durable platform for design innovations a...

Oris ProPilot X Review Teddy Baldassarre
Oris May 7, 2025

Oris ProPilot X Review

Oris made its first watch for aviators, the original Big Crown, way back in 1938, and has been riffing on that ingenious and influential design ever since. Defined by its large, fluted winding crown, designed to be easy for gripping by hands in heavy pilot’s gloves, the modern Big Crown series - now hosting both the sporty ProPilot and the more elegant Pointer Date versions - has become a major pillar in the independent Swiss brand’s portfolio. In 2020, Oris launched Caliber 400, the first in-house automatic movement it had made in its long history, and debuted it inside a watch from its popular Aquis diver collection, following that model up with a Caliber 400 version of its other divers’ model, the retro-styled Divers 65. In 2022, Oris finally arranged a marriage of its oldest watch model - well, a descendant of it, anyway - with its newest exclusive movement, introducing the first ProPilot X Caliber 400 models. Now available in a variety of avant-garde colorways, these siblings to the larger, Sellita-equipped ProPilot Date models (example below) offer a marked contrast with their predecessors while still carrying the banner of the overall series. Here is what you should know about the ProPilot X, where it came from, and what Oris has been doing with it lately. The Brand History: Paul Cattin and Georges Christian founded Oris in 1904, in Hölstein, Switzerland, naming the company after a nearby brook. A maker of pocket watches and, by 1925, the increasingly...

Casio Duro Teddy Baldassarre
Casio May 6, 2025

Casio Duro

It’s hard to believe that the Casio Duro has only been around for fourteen years now. It’s been at the top of affordable dive watch lists so consistently that you’d be forgiven for thinking it’s been around since the 1990s, but indeed, 2011 was the year this S-tier value proposition hit the market. The original Casio Duro MDV-106 was a mainstream success, selling over 600,000 units in its first decade. And it’s not difficult to understand why the Duro was such a crowd pleaser: a 200-meter water-resistant diver with classically appealing sporty aesthetics and genuinely nice finishing for $50 at launch (it retails for a still downright cheap $70 these days). Even for a brand known for its affordable classics, Casio had a genuine hit on its hands and over the years added colorways like blue and gilt, along with several bezel variants. And, of course, being the watch of choice for Bill Gates certainly didn’t hurt in cementing the Duro’s reputation. Here, I will get into why the Casio Duro is one of the best affordable offerings of the last quarter of a decade. And since I know you’re thinking it, I’ll begin by addressing the smaller 38mm model and why I don’t categorize it as a “True Casio Duro.” Casio Duro Case and Wearability: Let’s start with the admission of the fact that the 44mm case size is the Casio Duro’s biggest flaw. Yes, it’s a pretty big diver measuring 44.2mm wide and 12.1mm thick with a lug-to-lug height of 48.5mm. To address the no...

Dennison Announce a New Collaboration with Patek Philippe Expert John Reardon and Collectability Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Dennison May 6, 2025

Dennison Announce a New Collaboration with Patek Philippe Expert John Reardon and Collectability

It’s no secret that watch design over the past few years has been heavily inspired by timepieces of yesteryear. Many brands today are looking to integrate 20th-century principles into more modern and technologically advanced packages, typically in an effort to keep alive the vintage aesthetics collectors know and love. On the heels of their recent relaunch, Dennison has just announced their first watch collaboration ever, pairing up with horological icon John Reardon and his website Collectability to produce a new model for the brand’s contemporary catalog.  Last year, Dennison, a brand established in 1874, was revived with the help of its new A.L.D. Collection. This assortment of watches was designed by acclaimed watch designer Emmanuel Gueit, known for designing the new Rolex 1908, the Harry Winston Z1, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore. Dennison offers these vintage-inspired timepieces for $490 for sunray dials and $690 for stone dials. Their rather affordable prices helped the A.L.D. Collection catch the attention of many collectors, including John Reardon’s.  For those unfamiliar with his experience, Reardon has been a notable figure in horology for years. He began his career at Sotheby’s in 1997, later joining Henri Stern Watch Agency, then spending five years as the International Head of Watches at Christie’s Watches. In 2019, he left Christie’s to launch the Collectability website, aiming to educate collectors on all things Patek Philippe, in add...

Celebrating 60 Years Of The Omega Speedmaster Becoming NASA Flight Qualified Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Becoming NASA Flight May 6, 2025

Celebrating 60 Years Of The Omega Speedmaster Becoming NASA Flight Qualified

As I landed in Zurich last Monday, I wondered what flying must have been like 60 years ago. Besides the cigarette smoke, one of the most significant differences would’ve been the vital role that analog tools played in guiding the plane to its destination and doing so safely and on time. Today, it feels as […] Visit Celebrating 60 Years Of The Omega Speedmaster Becoming NASA Flight Qualified to read the full article.

Zenith Adds a Rose Gold Version of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar to the Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith Adds May 2, 2025

Zenith Adds a Rose Gold Version of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar to the Collection

In the year and three months since they reintroduced the El Primero Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, Zenith has been cooking up new references and colorways for the crowd-favorite complication. Next in this wave is the new 18k Rose Gold & Black model, wrapped in the ever-popular material and boasting the same sportiness mixed with refinement that the Triple Calendar has become known for.  Housed in a 38mm case (46mm lug-to-lug) and sharing proportions with previous stainless steel models, the new Rose Gold variant also features hour markers, subdials, and hands in the material-and coated in SuperLuminova SLN C1- to contrast the sleek black of the dial. A matching black calfskin leather strap with a rose gold folding clasp completes the look, giving the Chronomaster a profile that oscillates between elegant and intimidating.  Inside, the new Chronomaster features the same El Primero 3610 movement with automatic column-wheel chronograph functionality. The complete calendar and moonphase indications both lend the dial a swath of functionality and add aesthetic flavor. Also carried over from previous models is the 60-hour power reserve and 50 meters of water resistance, placing the Chronomaster solidly in the dress-to-sport watch camp.  A new colorway and case material for an iconic and consistently popular line of watches is always exciting, and Zenith has delivered with this new (and familiar) Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar reference. Whether or not rose ...

Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage And Neo Vintage Rolex Submariner Models Fratello
Rolex Submariner Models Another Friday May 2, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage And Neo Vintage Rolex Submariner Models

Another Friday, another list! This week, we compiled a list of our favorite vintage Rolex Submariner models. While classic Rolexes are always a topic of discussion, recently Submariners and GMT-Masters have been discussed quite a bit in the Fratello offices. It is no coincidence because Robert-Jan recently added a vintage GMT-Master to his collection, and […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage And Neo Vintage Rolex Submariner Models to read the full article.

Rolex Oysterquartz: The Complete Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex May 1, 2025

Rolex Oysterquartz: The Complete Guide

When Rolex introduced its Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller watch at Watches & Wonders 2025, some longtime fans of the brand experienced a bit of déja vu for a Rolex watch - and a Rolex era - that have been largely consigned to the mists of history. Why? Because the Land-Dweller's angular case and integrated-bracelet design reminded many enthusiasts of the Oysterquartz models introduced during the early heyday of quartz watches in the 1970s. That's correct: once upon a time, Rolex, one of the undisputed champions of luxury watches with mechanical movements, jumped on board the Quartz Revolution bandwagon and not only produced its own in-house quartz calibers but marketed the watches that housed them as the pinnacle of the Crown's timepiece portfolio at the time. Here is everything you need to know about the Rolex Oysterquartz and its quirky but significant place in horological history.  Rolex Oysterquartz: The Early Days Of Electric Watches The wristwatch industry, like any other industry, is uber-competitive and every watchmaker wants to be the first to market with The Next Big Thing. In the 1950s and into the ‘60s, that Next Big Thing was a watch that could be powered by electricity. American companies like Hamilton, with the Ventura, and Bulova, with the Accutron, were among the pioneers, even though the movements that resulted from these early efforts proved to have difficulty maintaining reliability in mass production. The Japanese, particularly Seiko, took a diff...

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Apr 30, 2025

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Review

There’s not much left to say about the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 that hasn’t already been said. It’s a watch that feels like it’s always been there, even though it was only released by Tissot in 2021, at exactly the right moment in history. With integrated-bracelet designs on the upswing, Tissot brought one to market that was fun, well designed, and well priced. It also happened to be based on an original ‘70s Seastar design from the brand. It was an instant hit, and the brand was quick to capitalize on its initial success by fleshing out a full collection, including different sizes, materials, and even movement options, culminating in the PRX Powermatic 80.  The PRX Powermatic 80 was introduced in both 35mm and 40mm variations, and quickly saw a variety of dial, case, and strap options that brought a diverse personality to the collection as a whole. In 2025, it feels like a fully mature staple of Tissot’s offerings, and the integrated-bracelet trend is showing no real signs of slowing down (more thoughts on that later), which should grant the watch a bright future. That said, I (and many others) will be curious to see how the PRX ends up evolving, and whether or not it will have real staying power for generations to come. Either way, for what it is right now, it’s a tough watch to beat when it comes to value and personality.  It's that combination that is the real draw of the PRX, and today, in 2025, it’s only strengthened. The PRX Powermatic 80 remains w...

Introducing: The New Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT 60th Anniversary Edition SPB519 Fratello
Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s Apr 30, 2025

Introducing: The New Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT 60th Anniversary Edition SPB519

Seiko is marking 60 years of diver’s watches with a new take on its successful GMT line, the Seiko SPB519. Today, Seiko has released a new Heritage Diver’s GMT watch in the Prospex collection. The brand has been on a powerful streak of late with their Prospex line, including improving the calibers on offer. The […] Visit Introducing: The New Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT 60th Anniversary Edition SPB519 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Perpetual Ca... Apr 29, 2025

Hands-On With The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar

Leave it to brands to find excuses to launch celebratory limited editions. Most of the time, the celebrated milestones feel contrived at best. Not so with Vacheron Constantin. After all, if you have been in the business-continuously, I might add-for 270 years, you truly have something to celebrate. The brand has embraced the festive mood, […] Visit Hands-On With The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.

Hands On: Hermès Arceau Le Temps Suspendu SJX Watches
Hermes Apr 29, 2025

Hands On: Hermès Arceau Le Temps Suspendu

Hermès recently revisited a whimsical complication first introduced some 14 years ago, the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu. Still retaining the quirky “suspended time” complication, the new Arceau Le Temps Suspendu gains a multi-layer, open-worked dial that reveals the interesting mechanics behind the mechanism. And it’s been scaled down slightly to 42 mm thanks to a movement upgrade. Initial thoughts I liked the original Le Temps Suspendu, both in terms of form and function. The complication isn’t practical, but it is unique and appropriate for the elegant, whimsical house style of Hermès. The original was a large watch, and the modestly downsized new version is an improvement. The thinner case is possible thanks to a Vaucher base movement, which is a step up over the ETA 2892 in the original. More notably, the open-worked dial adds substantially to the visual appeal. Besides giving the dial more depth, it reveals the surprisingly complex mechanism devised by Agenhor for Hermès. Though the complication is simple on its face, the mechanics required to pull it off are significant, and now they are on show. And most surprising of all, the new Arceau Le Temps Suspendu costs less than the original from 2011, with the rose gold variants priced a little under US$40,000. This is despite the upgraded base movement and more elaborate dial. It runs counter to prevailing practice in high-end watchmaking, and reflects the generally reasonably pricing of Hermès watches. Suspendin...

Garrick Takes a Huge Step Forward with the S3 Deadbeat Seconds Worn & Wound
Garrick Apr 25, 2025

Garrick Takes a Huge Step Forward with the S3 Deadbeat Seconds

One of my favorite stories in independent watchmaking over the last few years has been the evolution of Garrick, the Norwich based brand specializing in meticulously finished, custom made watches. In a relatively short time, the brand has transformed itself into something of an experimental haute horlogerie specialist. The first Garrick watch I can recall writing about was the S4, upon its announcement, which represented the entry point into the brand at around £4995 (in 2021). That watch was, and is, impressive, with a great deal of hand-work and a dizzying level of customization possible. But it would have been tough to predict that just four years later Garrick would be playing at another level entirely, flirting with GPHG honors, and offering bespoke watches that, if made by other, larger brands or more established watchmakers, would likely have price tags sailing into the six figures.  The new S3 Deadbeat Seconds release feels like a statement of purpose from Garrick. It is, as the brand puts it, “the pinnacle of Garrick ownership.” The watch itself is effectively a combination of two ideas the brand has been playing with over the last few years, the S3 Mk II (the GPHG finalist from last year featuring a completely openworked dial, focusing on the brand’s finishing capabilities), and the deadbeat seconds complication, as seen in the S2 Deadbeat. The new watch, then, features a deadbeat complication but is given an aesthetic treatment similar to the S3 Mk II, w...

Breguet Turns to Tradition with the Classique Souscription SJX Watches
Breguet Turns Apr 25, 2025

Breguet Turns to Tradition with the Classique Souscription

The opening salvo in Breguet’s 250th anniversary has just been revealed: the Classique Souscription 2025BH. Although typically Breguet in style, the watch is a novel combination of elements, at least by the conventions of Breguet, a traditionally staid brand. Presented in a case of the new design made of a gold alloy of a new formula, it’s a wristwatch inspired by the one-handed souscription pocket watches of the 18th and 19th centuries. The fired enamel dial replicates that of the pocket watch, while inside is the VS00, a calibre that is descended from the movement of the La Tradition. Initial thoughts As storied a brand as it is, Breguet certainly has a lot to live up to for its 250th anniversary. I expect more to come from Breguet in the coming months, but the Classique Souscription is a strong start, though a little pricey. It’s essentially an elaborately executed time-only watch, precisely the sort of watch that is popular now when made by independent watchmakers, but big brands face more scepticism with such timepieces. The VS00 Though it might seem typical Breguet on its face, the Classique Souscription is an unusual proposition; it’s inspired by various elements from across Breguet’s history, some several centuries apart. The dial and movement are inspired by a 19th century pocket watch, while the case comes much later. But everything works well and the whole manages to look like a Breguet. Traditionalists might mourn the departure from familiar elements ...

The 19 Thinnest Watches in the World in 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Apr 24, 2025

The 19 Thinnest Watches in the World in 2026

There have always been thin watches, and always watchmakers who have dedicated their craft to reduce the essentials of timekeeping, as well as other additional complications, into as slimmed down and wearable a package as humanly (and horologically) possible. Lately, however, as 21st century technological developments impact watchmaking as they have every other industry, it seems there are more exceptionally thin watches than ever before -some of them aimed at a customer simply seeking an elegantly understated and luxuriously lightweight timepiece for regular wear, others almost defiantly unobtainable to all but a few, but intended to boldly shatter records for both thinness and complexity. We offer some of both types in our roundup of ultra-thin watches below (which we're defining as 10mm thick or under, based on average watch sizes), in ascending order of case thickness, starting from the top with the current category record holders.   Under 2mm Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari (1.75mm) In the world of high horology, Richard Mille has been pushing the envelope in the areas of materials, technologies, and (let’s face it) prices for quite some time. In 2022, the brand probably best known for making the watch that tennis champ Rafael Nadal wears to play in Grand Slams entered a new partnership with Ferrari, and the result was, to many watch enthusiasts’ surprise, the current record-holder for world’s thinnest watch. The RM UP-01 Ferrari is an almost unimaginable 1.7...

Furlan Marri Celebrates their Fourth Anniversary with the New “Red Hunter” Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Celebrates their Fourth Anniversary Apr 23, 2025

Furlan Marri Celebrates their Fourth Anniversary with the New “Red Hunter”

It feels like Furlan Marri has been around longer than four years, doesn’t it? Their trajectory from “Kickstarter brand” to one of the most consistently interesting small indies/micros/whatever has been fascinating to watch simply because it doesn’t correlate at all with the typical growth of a watch brand, regardless of the size. They are doing interesting things that are purely design driven (like the Disco Volante I reviewed last year) but are also pushing the envelope when it comes to mechanical watchmaking. They have fully transcended, in my opinion, all of the baggage that comes with launching on Kickstarter, to the point that we don’t even think about how it all started unless we’re intentionally meant to look back, which is part and parcel with an anniversary watch release like this one.  To celebrate four years, Furlan Marri has unveiled the Red Hunter, a watch meant to pay tribute to classic hunter-case pocket watches and officer-style wrist watches. This is the brand’s first watch to measure 36mm in diameter, which I guess is a little surprising considering the vintage inspiration that runs through all of Furlan Marri’s designs, and the conventional wisdom that 36mm is perhaps the most classic, universal watch diameter. In any event, the size makes a lot of sense here when taken together with all the other little vintage inspired details. Let’s start with the dial, which is a new design from Furlan Marri. It’s a black lacquer with a subtle s...

Tudor Pelagos Ultra Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Apr 22, 2025

Tudor Pelagos Ultra Review

The Tudor Pelagos has consistently been something of "the other watch" in the broader Tudor lineup, sitting in the shadow of the Black Bay. It is also decidedly more modern in its design and is intended as Tudor’s more contemporary, dive-ready tool. What started as a 42mm mode then morphed into a watch in varying sizes, lug construction, and case construction. In 2025 it now sits as a somewhat diversified collection of its own. Is it a Black Bay in terms of scale and breadth of the collection? No, it is not, but it is also no longer a one trick pony. That concept is no more evident than in the Watches & Wonders 2025 release of the Pelagos Ultra, a 43mm riff on the Pelagos theme that aligns it more closely with the Rolex Deepsea than the Sea-Dweller or Submariner. This is a big, brash, and burly dive watch, intended for a very specific segment of the watch world. If you thought the Pelagos FXD was specific, the Ultra turns the dial up to 11. Case So as I mentioned above, the case is made from the traditional (for a Pelagos) titanium material, a combination of grade 2 and grade 5 to be specific. The side of the case opposite the crown features a discreet helium escape valve. The case may seem big from the specs alone, but the 52mm lug-to-lug makes it such that it isn’t a behemoth. The case thickness is a proportional 14.5mm and due to the overall size, you will be looking at a lug width of 22mm. The bezel insert is made of a matte titanium housed in a titanium bezel. The...

Bulova Marine Star Heritage: Quartz Precision with a Smooth Sweep Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bulova Marine Star Heritage Quartz Apr 22, 2025

Bulova Marine Star Heritage: Quartz Precision with a Smooth Sweep

Quartz movements get a bad rap from mechanical purists-and I'll never get it. The ticking second hand can apparently leave you feeling cold, especially when you’re used to the smooth sweep of an automatic. But for me, that’s always been a bit unfair. The real question isn’t whether quartz can match mechanicals-it's whether it should have to. Bulova’s HPQ (High-Performance Quartz) Precisionist movement is out to prove that quartz doesn’t just get the job done.

Ming’s Tribute to Titanium: the 37.02 Ghost Worn & Wound
Ming Apr 21, 2025

Ming’s Tribute to Titanium: the 37.02 Ghost

The latest from Ming, the 37.02 Ghost, is something of a study in titanium, a favorite material here at Worn & Wound. Members of our team have been fans of titanium for years for its light weight and its frequent association with many of the tool watches we’ve come to love. Titanium was a rarely used material in watchmaking not that long ago, but it’s so prevalent now that it’s easy to forget that at one time it was considered quite exotic. The Ghost taps into some of that exoticism, and reminds us just how strange and, at least in some ways, how ill suited titanium can be to watchmaking – a fact that makes a watch like this all the more impressive.  The 37.02 Ghost is made entirely from grade 2 titanium, a material often referred to as “pure” titanium. This material is distinct from grade 5 titanium, which is much more common in modern watchmaking, in a number of ways. Grade 5 titanium is made up of significant quantities of aluminum and was developed to be relatively easy to machine for applications in aerospace and other industries. Those qualities also, eventually, made it well suited to watchmaking, and it’s really a special bonus that grade 5 titanium can be finished with a polish and has an overall brighter appearance than other titanium allows.  Grade 2 titanium is an entirely different animal. Ming notes that pure titanium is extremely difficult to cut, and there’s even a significant risk that grade 2 titanium shavings and dust can catch fire dur...