Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Solar Speedtimer Is The Seiko We Should All Be Talking About
A story about quartz movements, electric bikes, and industry disruption.
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Hodinkee
Time+Tide
Hublot’s signing of Kylian Mbappé as an ambassador reflects the brand’s sporting power
This isn’t going to be a very objective piece, I’m afraid. That’s because I’m a huge admirer of Hublot’s sports-related marketing and their decision to snap up footballing superstar Kylian Mbappé as a brand ambassador is another great example of what they do. Let me explain. Top watch brands are invariably desperate to reinforce their … ContinuedThe post Hublot’s signing of Kylian Mbappé as an ambassador reflects the brand’s sporting power appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Green On Green: 4 Verdant Watch Dials For 2022 From Glashütte Original, Armin Strom, Omega, And Christiaan van der Klaauw
While the increasing popularity of green dials contributes to a more colorful universe of watches, Martin Green sometimes finds the use of this color a bit much these days. That said, the following recently introduced watches are home runs for Martin because their green dials are just right!
![Auction Watch: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” on Loupe This [Updated with Result]](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/Zenith-Chronomaster-Revival-Poker-Chip-Loupe-This.jpg)
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” on Loupe This [Updated with Result]
A limited edition launched at the end of 2021, the Zenith Chronometer Revival “Poker Chip” was the result of a collaboration between our founder and the watchmakers in Le Locle. One of them just popped up for sale at online auctioneer Loupe This – the first example to go under the hammer. The 200 pieces sold out at launch, making this a perfect opportunity for anyone who missed out last year. If the funky dial appears familiar, that’s because the Poker Chip reimagines the G383, one of the standout designs from the first references of the El Primero. While the G383 had a lavish, gold-on-black palette, the Poker Chip is entirely contemporary. Its dial is generously “lumed” – even the strap glows in the dark – bringing it to life at night, with the aesthetic alluding to the disco era of 1960s and 1970s when the G383 was born. [Update March 17, 2022: The Poker Chip sold for US$16,500 including fees on Loupe This.] The case is a micro-blasted titanium coated in DLC, which complements the military-esque dial. Notably the Poker Chip was the first – and remains the only – classic, 38 mm El Primero with a titanium case. Continuing the blend of new and old, the movement is the original El Primero 400 that’s almost identical to the 1969 original. As it is being phased out, this movement was chosen instead of the latest-generation El Primero 3600 (which has a lightning seconds), making the Poker Chip one of the last watches with the landmark calibre. Accompani...
SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces the PRX Chronograph Valjoux
Originally a late seventies model that was relaunched in 2021, the Tissot PRX was unsurprisingly a smash hit, largely because it is one of the most accessible Swiss-made watches with an integrated bracelet. And now Tissot has elaborated upon the design with the PRX Chronograph Valjoux. Initial thoughts The PRX Chronograph is a logical but attractive iteration of the original idea. The angular case and bracelet that characterise the PRX are perfect in a larger size with a sporty, contrast-register dial. More notably, Tissot made the smart choice of moving away from the typical (and sometimes boring) black and white for the “panda” and “reverse panda” dials, instead opting for more striking combinations – particularly the silver dial with gold markers. While the construction of the base-model PRX is simple, the chronograph gets more interesting as there is more real estate for details. The stepped, rectangular pushers, for instance, are especially attractive because they echo the case shape, while also having slight bevelling along the edges that add a bit of visual refinement. While the design appealing, it’s weighed down by the case thickness, which is almost 15 mm. That said, given the case is wide at 42 mm in diameter, it has good-enough proportions. Another nit to pick is the awkward position of the date, but that can only be fixed with a much smaller case (or much larger movement), both of which are not viable at this price point. The PRX Chronograph are pr...
Time+Tide
Talking to Shane Warne taught me how a man should choose his watch
I met Shane Warne last June on a photoshoot. He turned up slightly late with his mahogany suntan and dazzling white teeth and instantly won over the crew with his forthright charm. Not that he needed to make any effort. Because we were already completely in awe of him. It’s hard to explain what a … ContinuedThe post Talking to Shane Warne taught me how a man should choose his watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Silence Is Complicity: How The #WatchFam Is Standing Behind Ukraine
Over the last few days, Dan-Andrei Kluska has watched the news in horror. He has lost sleep, he has cried a lot, and he feels that he has been paralyzed by the eruption of war in Europe. After the first shock wave passed and his tears dried, he started to think about the future and was sincerely fearful because a nuclear war would wipe out humanity as we know it. Here he challenges us all to do something (and some have answered the call).
Time+Tide
Want a brand new Rolex GMT Master II “Batman” for $25? This charity raffle offers that chance…
Too often when we discuss Rolex watches, we have to mention their availability issues. Their “unobtanium” status has rubbed up many people the wrong way – earning The Crown much vitriol. Now just because you cannot buy them at retail does not mean the watches aren’t readily available. The problem is if you want one … ContinuedThe post Want a brand new Rolex GMT Master II “Batman” for $25? This charity raffle offers that chance… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: Happy Valentine’s Day, you’re dumped. That time our intern broke up with Swiss watchmaking
It’s a romantic day, and we’re hoping it’s all roses for you, but let’s not forget, love can be a bitch. And a few years ago, in a memorable rant, our intern Elise announced to us that she was losing interest in Swiss watchmaking. She was more into the Germans. The Japanese. Because it was … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Happy Valentine’s Day, you’re dumped. That time our intern broke up with Swiss watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
All 4 Greubel Forsey Art Pieces: Hidden Time With Breathtaking Micro Sculptures And Awe-Inspiring Micro Mechanics – Reprise
Greubel Forsey's Art Pieces are among the world’s most notable art-related timepieces and not just because they tackle the subject of art for art’s sake but also because the Art Pieces highlight the relationship horology has with art. Elizabeth Doerr doesn't think that there is any denying that the modern art of watchmaking has a synergy with art as a whole. And that is abundantly visible in these watches.
Time+Tide
WHO TO FOLLOW: Gain a new perspective with @bui.watches
There has been a common theme in the watch community as of late. The professional photographer, turned watch lover, turned watch photographer. It’s a progression that leads to amazing watch shots being blasted all over social media and one that I am all for. Because as more and more great photos are shared, the perspective … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: Gain a new perspective with @bui.watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
From The Audemars Piguet Archives: 8 Things You Didn't Know About The Origin Of The Royal Oak
Because there are eight sides to every great story.
Hodinkee
How To Wear It: The Secretly Stylish Timex Easy Reader
It ain't fancy. But it'll upgrade your look and last an eternity – all for about 65 bucks.
Quill & Pad
Book Review: ‘Inside Burgundy’ Second Edition By Jasper Morris
Some wine books are absolute must-haves for any serious, wine-obsessed drinker/collector. Jasper Morris’ 'Inside Burgundy,' released just over a decade ago, is right at up the top of that list. Put simply, it was as thorough and thoroughly competent an examination of a region and its wines as exists anywhere. And Morris has just released an updated second edition, which Ken Gargett reviews here.
Time+Tide
OPINION: These are the watch terms that drive me nuts…
I’ve never understood the term “tool watch”. After all, you don’t hear people talking about tool cars or tool computers – because “tool” is redundant. Anything used to do something is a tool, and last I checked, even a dress watch tells the time. If you want to refer to a dive watch, then call it … ContinuedThe post OPINION: These are the watch terms that drive me nuts… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch”
Though it was two years ago as the Grand Seiko’s flagship Spring Drive movement, the 9RA5 still feels new, simply because the latest-generation movement hasn’t found its way into many watches, save for a pair of limited editions. Now it finally makes it into a regular-production model, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch”. The latest Spring Drive, like the mechanical SLGH005, is inspired by the tree of the same name that’s native to the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi. Initial thoughts The SLGH009 “White Birch” clearly becomes the Grand Seiko’s showcase Spring Drive – it resembles the previous generation’s bestseller, the famous “Snowflake”, but is substantially upgraded in terms of features and finish. The combination of familiar styling and improved quality makes it attractive. Part of the appeal lies in the 9RA5 movement, which on the surface seems like a mere upgrade over the predecessor 9R65. But it is more than just the power reserve being increased to five days, and the new calibre boasts an entirely new architecture, including both a new gear train and integrated circuit for the Spring Drive regulator, as well as a better finishing. The other aspect of its appeal lies in the design, which has dubbed “Evolution 9”. As always is the case with Grand Seiko, Evolution 9 is inspired by vintage Grand Seiko models, but brings with it a sense of solidity and refinement, thanks to the flatter case, heftier bracelet, a...
Time+Tide
The slinky genius of the record-breaking Bulgari Octo Finissimo
“You can never be too rich or too thin” isn’t a sentiment I generally agree with, but in the world of horology, opulence and a slender profile are considered attractive virtues. And while some attempts at both smack of a “because we can” attitude (without considering whether or not that exercise is successful), sometimes, just … ContinuedThe post The slinky genius of the record-breaking Bulgari Octo Finissimo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
GaryG’s Favorite Watch Photos of 2021
With another year in the history books, it’s time for GaryG to move his prior year’s photos from his desktop computer into backup storage while scanning through them to pick out his personal favorites from the past 12 months to share with us. Enjoy!
SJX Watches
A Family Heirloom and the Legacy of American Watchmaking
This is the story of a man, my great grandfather Dominik “Dinko” Bakuk Kovacevic, his Waltham pocket watch, and the legacy of the American watch industry. Though he died before I was born, Dinko is a significant figure in my life because I was given my middle name, Dominic, in his honor. Dinko was born in 1875 in Stari Grad on the island of Hvar on the Dalmation coast of what is now Croatia, but was then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. As a young man, Dinko joined the short-lived Austro-Hungarian Navy and quickly rose through the ranks to become an officer. My great grandparents, Dominik and Aloisia Kovacevic, on their wedding day in 1908 Following his military service, at the age of 27, he set sail from the French port of Le Havre for New York City, aboard the SS La Lorraine. He arrived on Ellis Island in New York Harbor on August 16, 1902. He was joined by his fiancee Aloisia six years later, and they were married a few days after her arrival in the US in 1908. The SS La Lorraine, the ship that brought Dinko to the United States in 1902. Image – Library of Congress After his arrival in the US, Dinko moved west, like many entrepreneurial immigrants of his generation. By 1920, he was the proprietor of a grocery store in Tonopah, Nevada, before eventually settling near Berkeley, California where my mother’s family still lives. Dinko passed away in 1953, by which time he was affectionately known within the family as “Grandpa Old Man.” My great grandmother, ...
SJX Watches
Year in Review: Our Best Stories of 2021
Twenty-twenty one was a landmark year in watch collecting just because it was so unusual (which applies to the rest of the world as well). And it so happens that it was also the 10th year of the site, an occasion we marked with our maiden SJX editions, which were created in collaboration with Habring² and Kudoke. Over the decade we have done what we like best – with tweaks and refinements along the way – which is comprehensive stories on watches or topics that matter or are merely interesting. We published almost two stories of this type each week throughout 2021. We’ve narrowed down the list of memorable stories to a few that we think are especially worth revisiting for their insight or through provoking nature. Enjoy the read (which might take awhile so find a comfortable spot). And the photos were pretty good too Technical deep-dives The best of the year’s reviews were detailed than ever, going beyond close-up photos to include illustrations that explain intriguing mechanics. One such story was the in-depth examination of the Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS written by Richard Lee and SJX, which details how the watch pursues chronometry with a traditional chain and fusee, but with a modern twist of complex going trains. The tourbillon within the FB RS We repeat the exercise with the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 6119, an elegant watch that’s once again focused on chronometry, thanks to a movement constructed to delivery maximum energy with minimum thickness. Expla...
SJX Watches
Year in Review: The Best Watches of 2021
A trend that has been repeating across industries during 2021 also transformed the luxury-watch business during the year – an insatiable demand for watches and supply perennially falling short. Although there were new launches throughout the year – which kept enthusiasts continually entertained – the “novelties” for 2021 were mostly not the sort typical of the go-go years. New products was arguably less exciting than business would imply, largely because new watches take several years to develop and the uptick in business became seemingly overnight. Many high-profile new launches were predictable variations of familiar models. A seemingly familiar variation but actually something entirely new and one of the top watches of 2021 Nevertheless, there were standouts. Here are a dozen of the year’s best watches picked by our editors (or even owned by some of them, but alas not the Vermeer). Led by a magnificent art-complication, the list includes several technical highlights – from an impressive time-only movement from Patek Philippe to Richard Mille’s ingenious winding mechanism – and of course a few affordable watches on the list. All-in-one Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie – Tribute to Johannes Vermeer: “This pocket watch is the epitome of high-end horology, blending both art and engineering. While the base movement within is derived from the mega-complicated Ref. 57260 pocket watch, the Vermeer’s movement has arguably been cl...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang UNICO Full Magic Gold
Black and gold has traditionally been a colour combination that oozes refinement, having reached a peak of sophistication in the old-world charm of the Art Deco movement that evokes black marble bars and brass telephones. But, Hublot have created a black and gold watch that truly bucks this trend, with the Big Bang UNICO Full … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang UNICO Full Magic Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A host of savvy celebs are snapping up this super-accessible and inexpensive watch
People often bang on about the corrosive effects of fame and fortune. Purported negatives include paparazzi harassment, endless selfie requests from fans, not to mention the apparent obligation to give your child some god-awful name in a misguided attempt to express your “creativity”. On the positive side, however, enjoying a massive public profile does seem to … ContinuedThe post A host of savvy celebs are snapping up this super-accessible and inexpensive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire Editions
Has IWC finally created the perfect iteration of the Big Pilot? Well, perfect for those of us whose wrists don’t resemble a redwood’s trunk, anyway. You see, Flieger-style pilot’s watches have always been necessarily big, because of their origins as pocket watches adapted for wear on the wrist. One of the big advantages of having … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Sarpaneva x Moomin
Sarpaneva Watches celebrates Moomins, the central characters in a series of books and a comic strip in a series of 4 watches, each limited to 25 pieces.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Contemporary Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction
Complicated watches naturally come at a high cost of entry compared with simpler watches, at least at retail. But on the secondary market they can offer compelling value – except for a handful of “hot” watches (and we included one of those in the list too). At the same time, complications are intrinsically appealing because they possess the sheer technical quality that’s a key quality of high-end watchmaking. And there A. Lange & Söhne is no doubt a standout, especially for its watches that are considered benchmarks in their category, like the Datograph and Zeitwerk. So we round up a few highlights amongst the complications at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, covering a few value buys and also some star picks by Lange. So the list is diverse, ranging from the ultra-desirable Lange Datograph Lumen to a Piaget tourbillon with a form movement that is technically interesting and definitely strong value. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. The movement in the Datograph Lumen Lot 833: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen One of Lange’s trademark complications is the chronograph, simply because it does chronographs so well. It all started in 1999 with the Datograph. It’s still considered a landmark in modern chronographs two decades later for its fine, traditional construction. The model has been offered in s...
SJX Watches
Introducing the Zenith x SJX Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”
I’m pleased to announce the Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”, a collaborative edition loosely inspired by the disco-era El Primero G383, but reimagined with lots of lume – the dial is disco at night and also in the day. Update: Sold out, thank you for the interest. A brief background Zenith is a brand that appeals to me on an intellectual level because it’s historically significant for its chronometers and chronographs, but also on a personal level, simply because the brand makes watches that are both appealing and affordable. So it was a no-brainer for me to work with Zenith – since it meant I could create my fantasy El Primero. One of my favourite vintage Zenith models is the G383, a truly funky watch with a design that is unmistakably of the late 1960s and 1970s – the dial is over the top and truly disco. The El Primero G383 of 1969 But a one-for-one vintage remake has never interested me (plus I’m not a fan of the tiny lugs of the G383). So in early 2020, I got in touch with Romain Marietta, Zenith’s head of product development, and together we spent several months refining the concept, creating the Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip”. (Full disclosure: The several months spent tweaking the idea produced more than one outstanding design, so a variant is a possibility.) At the same time, the Poker Chip will also be more accessible than our past editions. It’s as affordable as Zenith watches typically are – in fact it costs just 10% more t...
Time+Tide
The Grand Seiko SBGA469 Boutique Online Exclusive introduces their “rock pattern” dial in a tradition-rooted indigo blue
I love my Grand Seiko SBGA413 “Spring”. It gets a lot of wear time on my wrist because I enjoy its cherry blossom inspired pink hue, making it a very distinct timepiece. But it is not just the hue that is compelling. Its “rock pattern” texture (as the brand refers to it) is a fan-favourite … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGA469 Boutique Online Exclusive introduces their “rock pattern” dial in a tradition-rooted indigo blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Taittinger Comtes De Champagne Blanc Des Blancs 2008: James Bond Will Like It
You may be asking yourself why Ken Gargett is reviewing yet another 2008 vintage champagne. For starters, he's doing it because 2008 is a great year. But also because the Taittinger Comtes de Champagne just might be the best of the 2008s. This champagne has a litany of high scores – most range from 98 to 100 – and praise from critics (including this one).
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: Five wacky Day-Dates that show why it’s the most interesting Rolex model
EDITOR’S NOTE: Don’t mess with a classic? We reckon that can be rather unimaginative advice. Iconic watches often earn their status because the bones of their design are stronger enough to absorb a fair amount of experimentation without compromising their identity. And, as this story proves, the Rolex Day-Date is a text-book example. The Rolex … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Five wacky Day-Dates that show why it’s the most interesting Rolex model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.