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Hands On: Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Louis Vuitton’s Oct 23, 2026

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic

Louis Vuitton’s second instalment of its 1980s revival model is the Monterey Ceramic. Styled like its predecessor – both share a similar inspiration – the new Monterey is simpler in execution and consequently more accessible, if not quite affordable. Instead of 18k gold, the case is now ceramic, in either black or green, with a steel case back. That’s matched with a white lacquer dial that replaces the fired enamel of the gold model. A regular production model, the Monterey Ceramic nonetheless retains the proprietary movement from La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) that is a good example of high-quality industrial-haute horlogerie. Initial thoughts The original Monterey, or more accurately, montre, which is French for “watch”, was a distinctive and surprisingly timeless design by Italian architect Gae Aulenti. But it was not exactly a high-end watch. Today’s recreation, in contrast, is just that. While last year’s Monterey in 18k gold was pricey, the new Monterey dials back on the fancy materials, which reduces the retail price by about half. Considering the high-end Geneva-made calibre inside, this makes the Monterey competitive with traditional watchmakers. The look of the Monterey, however, is not traditional. The style was unorthodox when Aulenti penned it in 1988, and continues to be so now. The unusual case construction gives it a bulbous appearance. Though the case is only 11 mm high, it looks and feels taller, but that is arguably part of the charm. The Mon...

Insight: The Triumph of the Maltese Cross SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s logo adopted Oct 19, 2026

Insight: The Triumph of the Maltese Cross

The Maltese cross is a ubiquitous device found inside all sorts of mechanical movements. Originally devised to limit a mainspring’s working range, it also makes an appearance in perpetual calendars and unconventional jumping hours complications. The elegant mechanism is both simple and clever, warranting a closer look. From cross to mechanics The Maltese cross mechanism gets its name from the heraldic symbol adopted by the Order of St. John, and remains associated with the Sovereign Military Order of Malta. While the original cross has four arms, the Maltese cross as a horological component commonly features five arms or more. Collectors also recognise the cross as Vacheron Constantin’s logo, adopted in 1880 in tribute to the horological component. Today, Vacheron Constantin also incorporates the cross into its tourbillon cage and even some decorative screw heads. Screw for the column wheel fashioned with a Maltese cross head inside the Vacheron Constantin caliber 3200. The component itself is a masterfully simple example of geometry and mechanics. The system allows a true 1-to-any transmission ratio, since the driving component only has one tooth which makes the cross-shaped wheel advance one single step every revolution. For comparison, a 1:5 transmission ratio can be accomplished by a pinion with ten leaves paired to a wheel with 50 teeth, but the motion transmitted would then be continuous. A Maltese cross still makes one full revolution after the driver turns five...

First Look - New Ice Blue Dials for the Nomos Metro Date Power Reserve and Neomatik 41 Update, Plus a Movement Upgrade Monochrome
Nomos Metro Date Power Reserve Oct 8, 2026

First Look - New Ice Blue Dials for the Nomos Metro Date Power Reserve and Neomatik 41 Update, Plus a Movement Upgrade

German product designer Mark Braun created the Metro family in 2014. Inspired by metro map signage and graphics, Braun injected well-calibrated doses of colour and city chic into the brand’s established Bauhaus design language. The inaugural Metro Date Power Reserve also marked a milestone for the brand, as the first model to debut the Nomos Swing […]

Hands-On: BA111OD’s Chapter 7 Skeleton Gets a Light and Airy Stainless Steel Build Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Sep 24, 2026

Hands-On: BA111OD’s Chapter 7 Skeleton Gets a Light and Airy Stainless Steel Build

I had heard the name but was not aware of the unforgettable spelling until I got a sample of my first BA111OD watch, the latest addition to the brand’s catalog: the Chapter 7 Skeleton. While BA111OD traces its roots back deep into the history of watchmaking, its modern incarnation has taken shape over the past seven years with several different chapters. One of the biggest evolutions we have seen in the brand’s contemporary catalog is in its movements. While early chapters got flack for keeping costs accessible with Chinese calibers, Chapter 3 incorporated the first Swiss caliber into the Swiss-based Maison’s lineup in 2022. The brand’s next installment, Chapter 4, continued to build on this trajectory with the BA111OD caliber BA.01. This movement was notably developed in collaboration with watchmaker Olivier Mory whose La Chaux de Fonds workshop has given rise to movements for brands across the industry, from Louis Erard to Yema. Then, BA111OD’s Chapter 5 went on to introduce the Maison’s first automatic chronograph thanks to the ETA Valjoux 7750. Next, Chapter Delta entered the lineup with a major shakeup thanks to another movement co-created with Olivier Mory, this time featuring a unique hypocycloidal mechanism. Instead of a standard central rotating hand, a satellite hour wheel rolls around a fixed central wheel. This creates a deltoid path where the hour dot naturally slows down and speeds up during its rotation cycle. Here, traditional circular minutes c...

Hands On With The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date Sep 9, 2026

Hands On With The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Master Control Chronometre collection is a hit. Now we put the Date Power Reserve model under the microscope… What We Love Great integrated bracelet design, & a first for Jaeger-LeCoultre Super comfortable on the wrist  Bridges both sports and dress watch genres easily What We Don’t No lume, so a better watch for day wear vs an all-around sports watch The bezel could be larger or have more detailing for greater balance Need a corrector tool to change the date, so it isn’t easy to do when out and about. Overall Rating: 9.25 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 Mario has had his say on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date, but now it’s my turn, and for this review, I’m getting hands-on with the Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve. Yes, the name is a mouthful, but that is ok, I’ll forgive Jaeger-LeCoultre as this is (spoiler alert) a fantastic watch that I really had a hard time faulting. Since seeing the full collection first-hand at Watches & Wonders this year, I had been keen on trying them for a longer-term review. I do love the rose gold variants, but the sensible part of me thought it best to give the steel version a try, as this is probably the more everyday-wearing watch, and design-wise, sits nicely between the date model and the perpetual calendar. First Impressions I’ll say this. My first impressions of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomet...

First Look - The New Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture Sep 2, 2026

First Look - The New Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture (Incl. Video)

Founded in 1988, Frederique Constant can now boast an impressive lineup of 35 in-house calibres powering the brand’s top-tier Manufacture pieces.  Redesigned and relaunched in 2020, the Highlife collection is Frederique Constant’s vision of a versatile luxury sports watch with a barrel-shaped case, an interchangeable integrated bracelet and a textured dial. Last year, the brand […]

Identifying a Watch 101: The Elliott Smith Case Study Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe s galore Aug 5, 2026

Identifying a Watch 101: The Elliott Smith Case Study

Whether it’s shown briefly on a TV show, in a photograph, featured in an advertisement, or even programmed into a video game, as watch collectors, we’ve all had at least one time where we spotted a watch and felt almost forced to double-take. Because of the money associated with stardom, it’s often Rolex Submariners, Omega Speedmasters, and Patek Philippe’s galore that we find in popular culture productions and events. There are, of course, countless instances of this, but I find that catching a glimpse of an inexpensive and accessible watch on someone’s wrist is far more rewarding and worthwhile to the average watch collector. Few of us have the ability to spend thousands of dollars on a watch that has Hollywood provenance, so to spot and potentially own a piece of horological pop culture history for sometimes well under $100 is a dream come true for many movie and watch fans. To illustrate how identifying a watch can be quite fun and certainly approachable, we will be examining singer/songwriter Elliott Smith and his wristwatch. Its brand and model will be revealed later on as I will first walk you through each step of the process. I hope I can provide you with some pointers the next time you come across a watch you want to identify yourself. It can feel like a rather unnecessary skill at times, but it’s a good feeling to discover a popular culture tie to a wristwatch that no one else has noticed before. How to Identify and Research an Unknown Watch Using Pho...

Mido Multifort TV Big Date Goes Rose-Gold PVD With a Midnight-Blue Dial WatchRider
Mido Multifort TV Big Date Jul 29, 2026

Mido Multifort TV Big Date Goes Rose-Gold PVD With a Midnight-Blue Dial

Mido has given the Multifort TV Big Date one of its warmest and most assertive makeovers yet. Reference M049.526.33.041.00 combines a deep blue dial with a rose-gold-colour case and bracelet, turning the familiar television-shaped sports watch into something considerably dressier without sacrificing its everyday specifications. It is not a limited edition, but it is a distinctive new option for anyone who likes the proportions and large date of the modern Multifort TV and wants more visual impact than the steel and rubber versions. The blue dial and rose-gold-colour PVD exterior give the Multifort TV Big Date a much richer character. A 1970s Shape, Reworked for 2026 The Multifort name reaches back to 1934, but the shape that matters here appeared in 1973, when Mido introduced its first watch with a television-style case. The company revived that idea for the modern Multifort TV Big Date in 2023. Its rounded-square outline, broad bezel and integrated-looking bracelet architecture immediately separate it from the endless supply of conventional round sports watches. This version does not change the successful formula. Instead, Mido uses colour and finishing to shift its personality. The 316L stainless-steel case receives a rose-gold-colour PVD coating, as does the matching steel bracelet. It is important to be clear that this is coated steel rather than solid gold, which keeps the price and practicality within the usual Multifort territory. Brushed surfaces control the shine,...

Hands On: Rolex Submariner Date Desk Clock Ref. 909010LN SJX Watches
Rolex Submariner Date Desk Clock Jul 23, 2026

Hands On: Rolex Submariner Date Desk Clock Ref. 909010LN

Late last year, Rolex unveiled its accessories line, comprised of a range of cufflinks and the Submariner Date Desk Clock ref. 909010LN. In the typical Rolex fashion, the new accessories are conservatively styled; the desk clock is essentially a Submariner face enlarged to 80 mm. But in typical Rolex fashion, the clock is impressively made. The Submariner desk clock is an impressive piece of desk-bound timekeeping. Execution is top class with flawless fit and finish, while the mechanics (or more accurately, electronics) are advanced: the quartz movement incorporates a 400-year perpetual calendar, and surprisingly, decorative finishing. Initial thoughts The Submariner desk clock is an impressive object, sizeable, heavy, and clearly well made. It has to be seen – and held – in person to understand the quality of make. Elements like the brushed steel case (that’s ironically not water resistant), engraved bezel insert, and decorated movement speak to the precision manufacturing and finishing. This clock is a beautifully-made industrial creation. That said, the design is a boring. It’s basically a Submariner face blown up to 80 mm. Fans of the design will be pleased as Rolex did replicate the details of the wristwatch artfully, right down to the engraved flange around the dial and tiny crown within “Swiss made”. Fortunately, the insides of the clock are more advanced than the design. The cal. 8335 displays the time and date, but the date is actually a secular calend...

Hands-On: The Raymond Weil A.R.T. Date Delivers Sport-Chic Style At An Accessible Price WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil A.R.T Date Delivers Sport-Chic Jul 21, 2026

Hands-On: The Raymond Weil A.R.T. Date Delivers Sport-Chic Style At An Accessible Price

Raymond Weil’s first integrated-bracelet sports watch blends 1970s inspiration with compact proportions and accessible contemporary luxury. What We Love A design inspired by 1970s integrated-bracelet watches Strong variety of colours and finishes Excellent integrated-bracelet option for the price What We Don’t No bracelet micro-adjustment Dial finishing could have more character Movement could offer greater autonomy Overall Rating: 8.4/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Raymond Weil has gone through quite a resurgence over the last couple of years, bringing the brand back into the spotlight and creating watches with genuine substance behind them. The Millésime collection, for example, helped reposition Raymond Weil when it was introduced in 2023, combining vintage-inspired styling with thoughtful design. It also won the Challenge Watch Prize at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, showing just how well received the collection was. Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Review – The Best Colourway Yet? Since then, the brand has continued building on the collection, introducing various complications and aesthetic interpretations to keep it evolving. In fact, I loved the 2025 Millésime Tri-Compax Chronograph so much (see the review above!) that after having it in my hands for just 30 minutes, I placed an order for one! However, Raymond Weil’s resurgence cannot be built on the Millésime collection alone. This ...

Industry News - François-Henri Bennahmias and the Honourable Merchants Group announces the launch of watchmaking brand, N3W5 Monochrome
Audemars Piguet CEO who grew Jul 1, 2026

Industry News - François-Henri Bennahmias and the Honourable Merchants Group announces the launch of watchmaking brand, N3W5

François-Henri Bennahmias, the charismatic former Audemars Piguet CEO who grew the manufacture’s annual sales from CHF 500 million to CHF 2 billion announces his first watch project. Following his departure from the brand, Bennahmias unveiled The Honorable Merchant, a venture conceived as a platform for carefully curated luxury products and collaborations, spanning multiple product categories, […]

SJX Podcast: A Diamond in the Rough? SJX Watches
Chanel s watch business into May 18, 2026

SJX Podcast: A Diamond in the Rough?

Tiffany & Co. is one of the only major jewellers without a significant watchmaking programme. Episode 41 of the SJX Podcast examines the brand’s past, present, and future under the leadership of Nicolas Beau, who is credited with building Chanel’s watch business into what it is today. When it comes to watches, Tiffany & Co. is potentially a diamond in the rough — it’s a uniquely American luxury brand with enviable cultural recognition. The brand also has a global boutique network giving it immediate access to all major markets, which could accelerate its trajectory with the right product mix. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

First Look - New References of the Piaget Polo Signature Date with Gadroons on the Dial Monochrome
Piaget Polo Signature Date Apr 15, 2026

First Look - New References of the Piaget Polo Signature Date with Gadroons on the Dial

Piaget’s iconic Polo watch debuted in 1979 as a slim, sensual, all-gold integrated bracelet watch covered from head to toe with horizontal gadroons. In 2016, Piaget resuscitated the Polo name and transformed it quite radically into a steel, cushion-shaped luxury sports watch closer in shape to the brand’s Emperador collection. Recouping some of the Polo […]

A New Batch of Worldtimers from Farer Have Arrived Worn & Wound
Farer Have Arrived It’s hard Feb 5, 2026

A New Batch of Worldtimers from Farer Have Arrived

It’s hard to keep track of all the watch trends that come and go over a calendar year, and while it’s not been as smoking-hot-popular as skin divers and GMTs, the worldtimer complication has been enjoying some time in the sun recently. Joining the herd is the Farer World Timer 2026 Collection, which beefs up an already-impressive (and early to the trend) lineup with three new colorways. In fact, the Farer World Timer was first launched in 2019, well before recent additions that have piqued the watch world’s interest, and it’s that confident backlog that has allowed Farer to introduce three new pieces with a level of design refinement that other relative newcomers may lack.  Before we dive into the new colorways, let’s get the basics down: each Farer World Timer sports a 39mm 316L stainless steel case (and varying finishes depending on the model) with an impressive 11mm of thickness, and a democratic 45mm lug-to-lug measurement. One crown, inset with a Farer “A”-embossed bronze cap, sits at the 3 o’clock position, while the other, wearing a World Timer marque, rests at 10 and operates the outer rotating bezel. The crowns, domed sapphire crystal, and exhibition caseback ensure a decently robust 100 meters of water resistance. Inside, a Sellita SW331-2 Elabore movement should guarantee reliability, accuracy, serviceability, and a 56-hour power reserve. A bespoke Farer rotor is color-matched to the central 24-hour disc on the dial.  Speaking of that disc, it...

In-Depth: The Mysterious Double-Movement Patek Philippe Pocket Watches SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Pocket Watches Sotheby’s upcoming Dec 6, 2025

In-Depth: The Mysterious Double-Movement Patek Philippe Pocket Watches

Sotheby’s upcoming auction in New York brings to light a pair of remarkable Patek Philippe pocket watches with double movements once owned by John Motley Morehead III (1870-1965), an American patron of the brand with exotic taste. Unknown even to Patek Philippe until now, the two watches each include a primary minute repeating base movement with a secondary movement under charismatic doré dials. Beyond their intrinsic rarity, the golden duo are significant from a historical perspective in offering a portal into early 20th-century American watch collecting, when interest began to shift from decorative to technical. The who A chemist who helped form Union Carbide, Morehead seems to have had a penchant for unusual, highly complicated watches. He also owned a triple complication with upside down “American” perpetual calendar, carillon minute repeater, and a double chronograph (as in, two separate chronographs) as well as a rattrapante but with only two seconds hands. The excellent research by Sotheby’s uncovered record of another of Morehead’s watches that was a carillon repeater with two sets of hands, like these watches, but powered by only one movement. Both double-movement watches going on the block at Sotheby’s have a primary movement with minute repeating on the back and a secondary simple movement on the front. The smaller of the two makes do with just a minute repeating base movement, while the larger watch also has a split-seconds chronograph with a minut...

Introducing - The Arnold & Son Constant Force 11 Platinum Edition Monochrome
Breguet s renowned tourbillon escapement Nov 20, 2025

Introducing - The Arnold & Son Constant Force 11 Platinum Edition

Friendships matter in life, and what better way to celebrate the bond between two of watchmaking’s greatest individuals than with a tribute watch? Bringing together Abraham-Louis Breguet’s renowned tourbillon escapement and John Arnold’s beloved fusée-and-chain system, lovingly replaced with a constant force mechanism, the Constant Force Tourbillon 11 made a deep impression when launched earlier […]

First Look - The New Parmigiani Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante with an Arctic Rose Dial Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier s turnaround orchestrated Nov 18, 2025

First Look - The New Parmigiani Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante with an Arctic Rose Dial

Parmigiani Fleurier’s turnaround, orchestrated by CEO Guido Terreni, is remarkable because it has been achieved on the back of one collection: the Tonda PF. Introduced just four years ago, the Tonda PF family now accounts for 85% of the brand’s sales. Often described as the brand’s luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet, the adjective […]