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Quill & Pad
Czapek is on a roll with its popular Antarctique steel sports watch and recently introduced a striking green meteorite dial in a limited edition of 100 pieces (which is already nearly sold out.)
SJX Watches
A brand founded by a trio of industry insiders, Kollokium debuted with a modern, brutalist-inspired timepiece distinguished by a quirky, studded dial. The follow-up, the Projekt 1 Variant “B”, features the same matte black dial that now glows blue in the dark, while retaining the cast-steel case and domed, “glass box” sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts Quirky and perhaps polarising, the Projekt 01 stands out with its industrial, slightly raw aesthetic. The latest version retains the same feel as the original, but now with a more restrained palette instead of the vivid, and slightly angry, red and orange of the original. Variant “B” is a low-key black and white in the light, and then glows a cool blue in the dark. Otherwise identical to its predecessor, the Variant “B” remains affordable at CHF 2,666.66. Although there are many micro brands and establishment names competing in this price segment, Kollokium offers something different that is nonetheless a practical watch. The Variant “B” The Variant “B” is the latest iteration of Kollokium’s inaugural model, which launched last year as a 99-piece limited edition offered only to friends and associates of the founders, Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, respectively an entrepreneur, designer, and media consultant. Variant “B”, on the other hand, is limited to 199 pieces and available to the public. Last year’s Projekt 01 “Friends & Family” that glows orange in the dark Like the o...
SJX Watches
Just released at Watches & Wonders 2024, the Rolex GMT-Master II in steel with a grey and black bezel (ref. 126710GRNR) is the newest addition to the famous line of dual time zone watches. More restrained in terms of colour, the new GMT-Master sports a 24-hour bezel with a grey-and-black Cerachrom insert. It’s still immediately recognisable, but a bit more discreet than its siblings in the collection, especially the famous “Pepsi” that is perhaps too recognisable. Like several other Rolex sports models, the 126710GRNR sports green accents on the dial and GMT hand. And the 126710GRNR is available on either a Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. Initial thoughts The GMT-Master II is a almost perfect, with little that needs revision. While some expected a “Coke” GMT this year, the 126710GRNR is a solid proposition for anyone who wants a GMT-Master dressed more subtly. The bi-colour bezel is functional without being too loud unlike the better-known GMT-Master “Pepsi”. Flashy or recognisable watches sometimes attract unwanted attention, so dialling back the bezel colours is smart. In fact, the 126710GRNR may as well be more appealing than the discontinued 116710LN with its all-black bezel. Although I prefer the all-black bezel of the 116710LN, the grey and black bezel of the 126710GRNR is more functional as it separates day and night. The Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” 126710BLRO The green accents are a nice touch and also logical since green is the Rolex corporate c...
SJX Watches
A budget-friendly dress watch, the Orient Bambino is robust and usually priced well below US$300, making it a good option for the entry-level or budget-minded watch enthusiast. Now, the Japanese watch brand added the Bambino 38 “Small Seconds” to the range. Offered in steel or a gold-plated finish, the new Bambino combines a compact case with a retro-style dial featuring a sub-seconds at six and Roman numerals. Initial thoughts The Bambino in its many variants is a compelling value proposition, marrying good quality with an attractive design. It’s the Orient equivalent of the Seiko 5. The model’s past designs have been a mixed bag, while the new Small Seconds is a more cohesive design. The latest iterations, particularly the silver dial, evoke 1930s watches with the railroad minute track and alternating baton-and-Roman markers. However, as is sometimes the case with vintage-inspired designs, this would benefit from revamping of the date, which is practical but gets in the way of the design. Aside from the cosmetic enhancements, the Bambino 38 Small Seconds retains the same in-house calibre as its predecessors, a no-frills movement that isn’t pretty but adequate given the model’s affordability. Retailing for US$344 for the steel models and a $24 hike for the gold-plated version, these remain commendable value propositions. A vintage-inspired dress watch The latest addition to the Bambino collection incorporates many elements from the existing models. It inhe...
WatchAdvice
We go hands on with the Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon EOD to see just how robust this tool watch really is! What We Love Its “Bullet Proof” buildThe micro gas lights and lumeIngenious shock-resistant systems What We Don’t The size as it wears larger than the specs suggestMix of titanium and steel feels a little oddThe clasp isn’t as comfortable and could be better designed Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 7/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 9/10 Ball is one of those brands that’s been around for a long while, since 1891 in fact, and probably doesn’t get as much credit as they deserve. Many brands are in the same boat unfortunately, but this is the world we live in. A big part of that is to do with marketing to be honest, and the rest is down to the watches, design, current trends, and culture. It all plays a part. Ball is a brand that was born out of the American railroad era. Similar to other brands that got their start or came to prominence as a result, like Hamilton, Waltham, and others if I can draw that association. For those who aren’t familiar with this era in watchmaking, here’s a very quick history lesson. Back in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, the United States was going through its industrial revolution. A big part of that was the American railway – all industries relied on this to get supplies for manufacturing, agriculture, building etc from one coast to the other. And this meant that the trains had to run in time and like...
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Fratello
In March 2022, the global watch market was at an all-time high. A stainless steel Rolex Daytona was worth just over €50,000, any new limited-edition watch would sell out in a matter of minutes, and sites like Fratello attracted a lot of new readers. Since then, things have cooled down substantially. According to Chrono24, that […] Visit Weekend Contemplation: The Watch Market Isn’t In Crisis, But How Should We Describe Its Current State? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A bestseller thanks to its integrated-bracelet design and accessible price, the Tissot PRX now gets more new dial options, including a “light green” hue for the time-only PRX Powermatic 80 and a “graded” green for the PRX Chronograph. The new green dials join the recent blue dial options and more compact 35mm model. Initial thoughts The new models are only cosmetic updates, but are otherwise the same. The brushed steel cases and ETA movements remain unchanged. So do the respective prices, making them the same value propositions as before. Notably, the chronograph dial gets a more substantive cosmetic upgrade beyond the colour. It now sports the waffle-patterned dial previously found only on the PRX time-only models. This is an attractive upgrade that imbues the model with a sportier aesthetic. New dial options The Powermatic 80’s dial features the same waffle pattern found in past models, but now finished in a “light” green hue that first seen on the quartz version released in 2021. The chronograph dial is presented in a darker shade of green with a gradient finish. It also gains the same stamped pattern found on the time-only model. This marks a departure from previous iterations of the chronograph, which were characterised by a vertically brushed finish with a two-colour scheme. Both watches retain the same case dimensions and movements found on earlier models. The three-hander is powered by the Powermatic 80.111, derived from the ETA C07.111. Tissot has e...
SJX Watches
The two most important examples of independent watchmaking in Only Watch 2024 are arguably the stealthy F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu and the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique, each a significant creation of a leading watchmaker of his generation (and interesting enough, both are sports watches). Inspired by mid-20th century explorer’s watches that were magnetism-resistant, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is an elegant but robust watch with a stainless steel case and an entirely new calibre equipped with an indirectly-driven centre seconds with a hacking, zero-reset mechanism. In its Only Watch form, the RRCA is a unique watch but also a prototype for a new line of elegant sports watches. NB: The watch pictured is a work in progress that is not entirely finished so the dial is a prototype and the movement is not perfectly clean. It will be delivered in a perfect state to the eventual owner. Initial thoughts Many of the RRCA’s details bring to mind mid-20th century “sports” watches. Not the sports watches we know of today, but rather the water-resistant Patek Philippe watches made in the 1940s and 1950s for gentlemen sportsmen and adventurers. This reflects with Rexhep Rexhepi’s respect for traditional Geneva watchmaking, which is also expressed in the RRCC but in a different manner. The RRCA subtly marks a new direction for Rexhep Rexhepi’s aesthetics. It’s clearly a thoughtful evolution of the RRCC. While the RRCC is a dress watch, ...
Worn & Wound
For a certain generation (OK, it might be a micro-generation) of watch collector, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 looms impossibly large. The colorful quartz watches, made from a combination of steel and fiberglass, debuted in 1986 at a time of great upheaval in the Swiss watch industry. This the first watch produced under the TAG Heuer banner, and a meeting of Heuer’s racing heritage and their new partner’s focus on emerging technologies in watchmaking. The watches were a sensation, and an affordable entrypoint for many into a rabbit hole that, as we all know, goes very deep indeed. Original F1 watches have become incredibly collectible over the years, and a new collaboration brings back the spirit of those watches in a way that should be incredibly satisfying to enthusiasts who grew up on the F1. Launching today, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 x Kith brings back the iconic Formula 1 design language in a series of limited edition releases. Ronnie Fieg, Kith’s founder, is a noted fan of the Formula 1 and a longtime collector, and the bold color and strong design codes of the original F1 overlap with much of what Kith is working to accomplish throughout their apparel and sneaker collections. As with any update of a much loved watch from the past, it’s interesting to note what has been changed, and what has been kept the same. For the 2024 edition of the Formula 1, materials have been upgraded throughout (the new watches get a sapphire crystal rather than plastic, and the strap...
Quill & Pad
It will surprise nobody that over the last 5 years certain steel sports watches have taken off in terms of popularity and become practically impossible to buy at an authorized retailer. However, fear not as there is still a unicorn out there that has not captured broader attention (yet): the Girard-Perregaux Laureato.
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Time+Tide
Citizen has a new steel integrated sports watch with an octagonal bezel, 200 metres water-resistantance, an an inner timing scale.The post The Citizen Series 8 890 is a new contender entering the integrated-bracelet octagon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A smaller, feminine iteration of the famous chronograph, the Omega Speedmaster 38 mm is set apart by an unusual dial design characterised by oval sub-dials and a matching oval date window. Now the brand has grown the range to include new dial finished in metallic brown or green, both available in either steel or Omega’s proprietary gold alloys. Initial thoughts The new offerings grow the Speedmaster models catered to female consumers. Though the changes are mostly cosmetic, they are done well, with the diamonds set on the sub-dials being a particularly thoughtful detail that emphasises the oval form of the registers. At the same time, the new dial colours, which are physical vapour deposition (PVD) like other recent Omega dials, are attractive, though not new. That said, the Speedmaster 38 mm is essentially a scaled-down version of the Speedmaster Moonwatch. Though shrinking a man’s watch is often the formula for ladies watches, this would have been more interesting with more substantive changes. This is particularly relevant in terms of the case thickness, which is almost 15 mm, resulting in chunky proportions that don’t complement the styling. The new models are priced as expected for chronograph set with diamonds: starting at US$17,400 in steel on a strap, and rising to US$46,400 in gold on a bracelet. The Speedmaster 38 mm in steel, 18k Moonshine Gold, and 18k Sedna Gold Diamonds and more The latest iterations are essentially luxury upgrades to the existing Spe...
Monochrome
Some of the best ideas (and also the worst ones…) often start with a simple “what if” question… What if I could create a dial with a spectacular pattern found on Damascus steel forged in South Africa…? And then through it into an equally original watch… Say for instance a Sarpaneva? That was the question […]
Time+Tide
Omega expands the Speedmaster 38mm collection with a multitude of new models, choice of three materials, and two dial colours. There’s a choice of steel or Omega’s proprietary Sedna and Moonshine Gold alloys, and either brown or green sunburst dials, with the solid gold bracelets being a first for the collection. The pieces are powered … ContinuedThe post Omega launches a set of dazzling 38mm Speedmasters, with some collection-firsts (live pics and video) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having announced its return with an auction on May 10, 2024, Only Watch has finally revealed the watch that everyone has been waiting for: the Patek Philippe Grande and Petite Sonnerie Ref. 6301A-010 “Only Watch”. Based on the standard version of Patek Philippe’s clockwatch – which is the second most complicated watch in the brand’s catalogue – the ref. 6301A has a stainless steel case like several past Only Watch editions and more unusually, a Rare Handcrafts hand guilloche dial covered with blue-green translucent fired enamel and 12 baguette-cut diamond indices. For the moment, the ref. 6301A is the only timepiece in Only Watch 2024 that is an entirely new creation, while the rest of the offerings are carried over from last year’s event (though word has it a prominent independent watchmaker might be making significant modifications to his creation). Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s original creation for the what was originally Only Watch 2023 was a unique version of the Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P. After that got postponed to May this year, Patek Philippe replaced its original contribution with the ref. 6301A. Though only the dial differs from the standard version in terms of visuals, the ref. 6301A is strikingly different. With its elaborate dial, it looks less formal and more decorative. Thought arguably less surprising than the ref. 1938P that was an entirely new reference and complication, the ref. 6301A is more complicated, expensive, and elabo...
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Hodinkee
It’s no “blue steel,” but the Aquanaut remains undefeated when it comes to elegant travel complications.
SJX Watches
Omega just released a new take on its Speedmaster with a vintage-inspired dial for the upcoming Paris 2024 Olympics that begins 100 days from now. Available in Moonshine Gold or stainless steel, the Speedmaster Chronoscope “Paris Olympics 2024” features a silver dial with black registers, along with solid gold numerals and gold-plated hands. Initial thoughts Omega is known for the many commemorative timepieces to mark the Olympics over the years, with the most recent one being Seamaster Diver 300m Paris Olympics Edition. A variety of Omega models have received the Olympics treatment, so the appeal really depends on the specific model, rather than the commemorative aspect. The new Chronoscope certainly looks good, with the gold accents on the dial giving it a more vintage feel, particularly on the steel model. That version brings to mind mid-20th century chronographs that combine gilt hands and markers with contrasting steel cases. With only the dial being unique to this edition, it remains chunky at 43 mm. Although large on paper, it is not all that large in reality, due to the short lugs of the Speedmaster case. I would imagine it to wear reasonably well on an averaged-sized wrist, given that the 42 mm Speedmaster Moonwatch wears well across most wrist sizes. The new Chronoscope ranges from US$9,500 to US$51,400, depending on the metal and strap configuration. Although the value proposition is decent for the steel model, the Moonshine gold version is harder to justif...
Monochrome
Released in 2021, the Chronoscope was a surprising take on the classic Speedmaster, combining a large case, a two-counter dial (usually found in larger versions and racing-oriented models) with a vintage-inspired dial bearing no fewer than three snailed-shaped tracks. Untouched since its presentation, which included steel and bronze-gold versions, the Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope collection now […]
SJX Watches
Rolex has unveiled a luxe version of one of its top-of-the-line divers, the Deepsea ref. 136668 LB, which boasts a blue lacquer dial paired with a yellow gold case and bracelet. The timepiece makes a significant statement while preserving all the depth performance associated with its steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller. Initial thoughts Rolex has been hinting at forthcoming novelties on social media for a while, sparking anticipation among enthusiasts like myself who speculated that perhaps a new Submariner model was in development. However, the brand surprised us with something pretty unexpected. The new Deepsea features the iconic blue and yellow gold colour scheme reminiscent of past Submariner models, which adds a touch of nostalgia to the release. With a diameter of 44 mm, this watch carries considerable weight, especially with its heavy yellow gold construction, which adds substantial heft to the wrist. Priced at US$52,100, it far surpasses the cost of comparable steel models, which are roughly a third of its price. However, considering the solid yellow gold construction, the price is fitting, considering the current market climate. Blue and yellow gold The latest model is a successor to the steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller. It maintains the renowned pressure-resistant architecture, with a ceramic compression ring and the Ringlock system for the bezel. Sporting a vibrant blue hue, the bezel, compression ring and dial all sharply contrast with the gilded gold lettering on the dial a...
Monochrome
Last year, TAG Heuer launched the Skipper, a watch design inspired by one of the brand’s historic designs. Heuer created the original Skipper after the yacht Intrepid’s victory in the 1967 America’s Cup, where the crew used Heuer’s yachting timers and Aquastar wristwatches. The new Skipper, made of stainless steel, paid tribute to this heritage. […]
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
One of Zenith’s latest releases, the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph, takes a sensible step in the direction of familiarity, but also keeps things fresh and new. A stainless steel, integrated bracelet sports chronograph has been done by many brands, and now Zenith is able to punch a weight class above and compete with the likes of Vacheron and Audemars Piguet.
Worn & Wound
Following the success of last year’s glassbox Carrera chronograph releases, Tag Heuer extends the collection with a new for 2024 bi-compax panda look in stainless steel. This watch features a silver brushed sunray dial, with a black minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock, a black hour chronograph totalizer at 9 o’clock, and a permanent seconds indicator in silver at 6 o’clock. Dimensions are 39mm in diameter, 46mm from lug-to-lug, and just under 14mm thick. Revealed through its sapphire display back is the in-house chronograph movement Heuer 02 (Ref.TH20-00). It features a bi-directional winding, a new shield-shaped rotor, and an impressive 80-hour power reserve. What made last year’s releases so appealing was their new combination of a concave dial and outward convex tachymeter rehaut, which hugged the outer curvature of the glassbox sapphire crystal. The look is quite frankly mesmerizing, and it has completely rejuvenated the Carrera line. This harmonious blend of vintage tribute, contemporary elegance, and novelty truly embody the spirit for which TAG Heuer is renowned. Retail pricing for the tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph is $6,650 USD, for more information visit www.tagheuer.com. The post TAG Heuer Introduces a New Glassbox Carrera Chronograph appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Patek Philippe releases a new white gold reference of its popular Aquanaut Travel Time with a greyish-blue dial and matching strap. While many Patek fans mourned the discontinuation of the 5164A stainless steel Aquanaut earlier this year, the new white gold reference – a first for this model – is a handsome addition to the […]
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer is launching an upmarket of its sailing chronograph at Watches & Wonders 2024: the Carrera Chronograph Skipper in 18k rose gold is essentially the same as the steel iteration released in 2023, save for the precious metal case. Employing the well received “Glassbox” case, the Skipper has the signature domed dial flange that acts as an inner bezel, accentuated by a domed sapphire crystal. Unique to the Skipper model are the teal sub-dial at nine and the tri-colour register at three, both modelled on the vintage original. Initial Thoughts I am a fan of the Carrera Glassbox. It’s a surprisingly versatile model – some variants have a no-nonsense style that bring to mind the original racing chronographs of the 1960s, while others like the Skipper are strikingly coloured. Most variants nonetheless are inspired by the vintage Carrera in all its flavours. None of the other Carrera models come close to the Skipper’s sunburst blue dial with teal accents; it looks quite splendid under the sun. Not to mention that the Skipper happens to be very wearable at 39 mm. Whether the gold version is an appealing proposition is another questions altogether. Most would opt for the steel Skipper just as a matter of budget. That said, the rose gold Skipper at CHF 21,000, is an acceptable value proposition as solid-gold chronographs go. Its competitive advantage lies in the appealing, historically-inspired design and in-house column wheel chronograph movement – there are lots o...
Monochrome
In 2023, Nivada Grenchen delighted enthusiasts with a faithful recreation of its original F77, initially introduced in 1977 to rival popular sports watches of the era, with a steel construction with an integrated bracelet. The relaunched F77 series brought back with the same intent decades later, featured versions sporting blue and black dials adorned with […]
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